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Date: 14 May 85 16:04:49 EDT
From: *Hobbit* <AWalker@RUTGERS.ARPA>
Subject: Wiring
To: Telecom@RUTGERS.ARPA
cc: Hobbit@RUTGERS.ARPA

It's rather difficult to send out schematic diagrams to a network of people
using regular old ascii terminals, but since wiring inside most fones is 
pretty standard, a description should do the trick.  This applies to *all*
WE phones and ITT phones that use the standard dial/ringer/network block/
handset configuration.  I've rebuilt lots of these suckers, and can 
confidently say that they're all the same.

Everything basically talks to the network block.  The network block contains
the ringer capacitor, the induction coil that handles the handset, and very
little else save some spare screw terminals.  Left to itself, the network
block can function as a standard line load [it looks electrically like a
phone] when a line is connected across RR and C.  These are the inputs to
the coil.  The ringing capacitor is indeed across A and K as someone mentioned.
In addition, older blocks have a smaller capacitor across F and RR, to 
decrease sparking across rotary dial contacts.

Handset:
Green and White: Earpiece leads.  These connect to net R and GN respectively.
Black and Red: Mike leads.  Connect to net B and R respectively.

Ringer [two-winding]:
Black and Red: To line.  Connect to L1 and L2 [or whever your line comes in].
Grey and Grey/red [these may vary; they are the ''other two'' wires, anyway]:
	Connect to net A and K.  The circuit thus formed runs from one side
	of the line to one ringer winding, thru the A-K cap, thru the other
	ringer winding, to the other side of the line.  This configuration
	has infinite DC resistance, but picks up the AC ring voltage.
Ringer [one-winding, rare]:  Connect the single winding [two wired] in
	series with the A-K capacitor somehow, and this whole thing across
	the line as above.

Rotary dial:
Blue and Green: Interruptor.  Connect to net F and RR.
White [2]: Earpiece suppress.  Connect to net B and GN if desired.

Touch-tone dial:
Green: + Line in.  Connect to net F.
Black: + Line out.  Connect to net RR.
Org/Blk: - Line in.  Connect to net C.
Red/Grn: output common.  Connect to net R.
Blue: output.  Connect to net B.
*Note: the above 5 connections will give you a ''bare-bones'' dial
configuration without features.  Features are mike disconnect, earpiece
suppress, etc which are done simply by routing leads to these through the
extra contacts on the dial instead of directly.  If you want the features,
modify the wiring as follows.  If your network block doesn't have the S and
T terminals, you have an old one designed for rotary dials, and you'll have to
do kludges.
Earpiece mute:
Move Handset lead at White to net S.  Also connect Dial White-Blue to net S.
Connect Dial White to net GN.  This routes the earpiece through
the dial switching mechanism which resistifies the circuit on button press.
Mike disable:
Move Handset Red to T.  Also connect Dial Red to T.  This completely disables
the mike on button press.  Make sure Dial Red-Green is connected to R if you
do this mod!

Hookswitch:
You'll find many variants of this in different units; some configurations 
switch both sides of the line, some only one, some switch out the ringer
when off-hook [which isn't necessary, really].  The following should work:
Yellow: Connect to net L2.  This is where the line enters.
Brown: Connect to net C.
Green: Connect to net L1.  This is the other side of the line.
White: Connect to F.  This is switched line power to the dial and the rest.
Red: Connect to R.  This, with Black, is shorting earpiece mute.
Black: Connect to GN.

Line in:
Green and Red connect to L1 and L2.  Try one polarity; if the touchtone dial
doesn't work, then flip them.  Rotary dials, of course, don't matter.

If someone sees errors in this, please notify the list with the correction...

_H*
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