Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part5
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Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs

Last-modified: 20 October 1996
Version: 2.18

HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 5 of 5) -- HEDGEHOG HEALTH CARE AND UNDERSTANDING
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara (macnamara@pci.on.ca)
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.

This document is copyright 1996 by Brian MacNamara.  See section [0.5]
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

The basic Hedgehog FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one.  A complete table of contents for
all five parts is given in part I.

Please note:  I am not a hedgehog expert, and I did not write, or verify, 
all the information in this FAQ.  I have done my best to include only 
accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness of 
what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that it 
will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way.  For advice from 
an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1], or, 
especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who 
is familiar with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do ***

   <7.1> Self-anointing.  What is it?  Why do hedgehogs do it?
   <7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot.  Is that normal?
   <7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating?
   <7.4> My hedgehog sneezes.  What should I do?
   <7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic?  Is this normal?
   <7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire

8. *** Basic health care ***

   <8.1> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  
   <8.2> What health risks should I worry about?
   <8.3> Vaccinations, etc.
   <8.4> Mites (or mites, not?)

9. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

   <9.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for?
   <9.2> My hedgehog's had funny-looking stools for a couple of days.
         What's wrong?
   <9.3> My hedgehog's not eating.  What should I do?
   <9.4> How did I get fleas in my home?  How can I get rid of
         them?

10. *** Wild hedgehogs ***

   <10.1> Caring for visiting hedgehogs
   <10.2> Hedgehog housing
   <10.3> Hedgehogizing your garden
   <10.4> Wild hedgehog health
   <10.5> Watching out for hibernating hedgehogs

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do ***

------------------------------

Subject: <7.1> Self-anointing.  What is it?  Why do hedgehogs do it?

I have mentioned self-anointing (or self-lathering, as it is sometime called, 
in at least the U.K.) repeatedly throughout the FAQ, so now it is time to 
explore the hedgehog's one truly unique trait.  Nathan Tenny provided
a good description of this interesting and perplexing hedgehog habit:

    If you smell *really* interesting, your hedgehog will lick
    or nibble on you, back off, and suddenly contort itself, start 
    foaming at the mouth, and lick the foam onto its spines.  This 
    ``self-anointing'' has to be seen to be believed, but it's perfectly 
    normal.  It's not known for sure why they do it, but it probably 
    has something to do with self-defence; hedgehogs are *highly* 
    resistant to most toxins, and when they encounter something that 
    might be toxic, they get it in their mouths, foam, and cover 
    themselves with the toxic mixture.  The result is a toxic hedgehog, 
    which is really something to reckon with.  (Incidentally, the toxin 
    resistance of hedgehogs is truly prodigious and has been the subject
    of some research; they are one of the few animals that can safely eat
    giant toads (_Bufo marinus_), for instance.)

    One more last note:  We don't know why this happens, but even without 
    the benefit of self-anointing, their spines seem to have a mild 
    toxic/irritant effect; when you prick yourself on one, even slightly, 
    it hurts more than it should, and for a little bit longer.  No big deal, 
    just sort of strange.

One of the most effective ways to provoke a session of self-anointing is
to pick up your hedgehog when you have sweaty hands, or after having used
hand lotion, or a different type of soap.

In any case, once you have witnessed this entertaining act, and you have
calmed down enough to understand your little friend doesn't have rabies
after all, you will likely be convinced that hedgehogs do not have backbones.
It's really hard to believe something as round as a hedgehog can twist itself
into that contorted a position.  It's also a bit disconcerting to learn just
how long that tongue is!

------------------------------

Subject: <7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot.  Is that normal?

Yep.  If he doesn't, are you sure you have a hedgehog?  The snuffling or
snorting (or snurfling, as my wife calls it), while having the head tucked 
down, is part of the defense mechanism that has kept hedgehogs around for a 
very long time.  It basically leaves them with their quills protecting every 
bit of visible surface, but still allows the hedgehog to move.  The snuffling 
and snorting is usually accompanied by sudden lurches in the direction the 
hedgehog believes its potential enemy is in, to try and give it a good 
warning prickle.

The more your hedgehog comes to know you, the less you will get the
sharp shoulder treatment.  One exception to this is if your hedgehog is
sleepy.  A sleepy hedgehog can be very insistent about not being disturbed
[3.1].

Getting your hedgehog to become familiar with you takes a lot of patience, 
but it is worth it.  If your hedgehog tends to be somewhat shy or unfriendly
towards you, try spending more time holding him -- chances are he just
doesn't associate your smell with being a friend, yet.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating?

A quick note here:  this section applies to African Pigmy hedgehogs, rather
than European hedgehogs (which do hibernate, primarily between January and
March).

A common concern is whether or not pet hedgehogs hibernate -- especially
as winter starts to arrive.  The answer is generally no.  However, if the 
temperature where they are kept drops too low (below about 20 degrees C or 
68 degrees F), they can start preparing for hibernation and will certainly 
go into hibernation for brief periods, if the temperature drops much below 
this -- at least until the temperature returns to a comfortable level.  If 
your hedgehog seems to be sleeping too soundly, and you are worried, any 
kind of movement to his or her bed will usually earn you at least a brief 
spate of unhappy snuffling.  If this happens, then you can probably assume 
you've just disturbed a sleepy hedgehog.  If this and nudging at him don't 
have any effect, and he's been in quite a cool (for a hedgehog) temperature, 
he may have slipped into the beginnings of hibernation, and should be 
gently (and slowly) warmed up, which should let him awaken.

Hedgehogs will also tend to slow down and get somewhat grumpy if they are 
kept at a temperature that's too cool for their liking.  If you're finding
that your previously energetic hedgehog is acting a bit slow and grumpy,
and cool weather has started to arrive, then you may want to take steps
to warm up your hedgehog [5.2].

Another sign that a hedgehog that is too cool is its going off its food.  If 
your hedgehog isn't eating, and is walking a bit funny, it may be because he 
is a bit cool.

    The first thing to do is to check to see if the animal is warm enough.
    Feel its legs and belly.  If these feel chilled the animal needs to be
    immediately warmed up.  A chilled hedgehog will walk as if it is drunk.
    A variety of methods can be used to warm them.  The one that I use is
    to put the animal in the cut off sleeve of a sweatshirt.  I then put
    it in a box (I actually have an 8 litre cooler that I use) with a jar 
    of hot water.  Close the lid of the box (or put the lid on loosely to 
    allow for air in the cooler).  They usually warm up in about an hour
    or so.  When I put the animal back in its own cage, I make sure I give
    it a sleeve to keep warm in.  Some animals are more prone to chills
    than others.
    -- Linda Wheatley

In general, the likelihood of hibernation happening is quite low, so if
your hedgehog isn't making its home in the refrigerator, and you don't
like living in subarctic conditions indoors, you probably shouldn't worry.  
That having been said, I have heard of several instances of it happening
(briefly, and all fully recovered when warmed up), so some caution is
worthwhile.

Probably more worrisome is the chance of pet hedgehogs going into 
aestivation.  This is similar to hibernation, but is done when things get
too warm.  In their natural habitat, this is to let the hedgehog wait things 
out until cooler and/or damper weather returns.  African Pigmy hedgehogs are 
more likely to slip into this state, especially in light of heatwaves in 
recent years in North America, than they are to wind up hibernating.  The 
problems and side effects of aestivation are largely the same as for 
hibernation.

You should not let a pet hedgehog hibernate, or aestivate.  As pets, hedgehogs 
do not stock up on food, nor put on the necessary extra body fat needed to get 
through hibernation.  A pet that is allowed to hibernate extensively will 
likely wake up very sick and very weak -- if at all.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.4> My hedgehog sneezes.  What should I do?

Occasional sneezes are normal.  When you consider the amount of exploring
that hedgehogs like to do, in combination with just how busy that little
nose is, it's pretty easy to understand that the result will be an
occasional sneeze.

Extended sneezing fits, or nasal discharge, however, indicates a problem,
and a trip to the vet is in order.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic?  Is this normal?

You've just introduced your hedgehog to a nice new big pen and all of a 
sudden it's like he's going crazy, running madly around the cage, trying
to get out of every little nook and cranny, and generally driving you up
the wall.  Yes, this is quite normal (for the hedgehog -- you being up the
wall, I can't comment on).

Hedgehogs appear to do this when they get into a new environment, and will
usually settle down in a while, once they decide that (a) they can't 
actually get out (which given the slightest chance, they will), and (b) they 
have decided this is now home.  Some hedgehogs will literally climb the walls
just to check whether you remembered a roof or not.  Pocus, my youngest 
female, is a fine example of this.  She will climb anything, anywhere, 
anytime, to any height.

Some things you can do to reduce the chaos and chances of reoccurrence are 
to provide a familiar nest or burrow for your little beast, and to install
a wheel for exercise [5.6] (all that energy is pretty normal in hedgehogs 
-- scary, huh?).  Lots of active play times can help too.

One other answer here is to simply enjoy the fact that you have a healthy,
energetic hedgehog.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire

As far as sounds go, officially, the only sounds that hedgehogs are 
supposed to make is their snuffling and snorting when they are feeling
threatened, and some squeaking as babies.  That said, I can tell you 
hedgehogs have an amazing number of little sounds in their repertoire.  I 
have it on good advice and from personal experience that there are a number 
of other hedgehog vocalizations that occur in both babies and adults.

One time that hedgehogs completely abandon their silent ways is when it
comes to mating.  This is particularly true of males who will often end
up sounding like a video game gone wild with an amazing series of squeaks
and chirps as they vie for the favours of the lady.  

In addition, here are some comments from other people on hedgehog sounds:

    At least two of my younger ones have kept this ability [nursing 
    type squeaks] and can shriek quite loudly when startled or angry.
    This will wake the deepest sleeper.  
    -- Mike McGary

    All the hedgehogs I've known have made a quiet twittering noise when
    they were relaxed and exploring.  
    -- Nathan Tenny

I'd like to thank Mike McGary, with some commentary from Nathan Tenny and 
Znofyl, for sharing thoughts on the virtuoso singing of hedgehogs here to 
give people an idea of some of the extremes that can be reached.  I would 
also like to note that the loudest thing that has ever come out of Velcro, 
other than his nervous snufflings, is a contented slurp when he's buried 
his nose in a container of cream.

    The books all say that hedgehogs don't make much noise.  They do squeak 
    for their mother when they are still nursing and make snorting and 
    snuffling noises as adults....one account says that they can snore quite 
    loudly.

    My young male (Adam) has been known to scream when frightened.  This
    isn't a small squeak, but a full-fledged rabbit-caught-in-a-trap
    scream.  But the real oddity has started recently.  We have one of
    those beep-beep-beep-beep alarm clocks.  We normally set it for
    6:00 am, but keep pushing the snooze button every time it goes off
    (sometimes for a long time).  After the alarm goes off, Adam starts
    to make this eeeeh-eeeeeh-eeeeeeh sound like he is imitating the 
    alarm clock.  He does it every morning and you can get up and 
    watch him....he doesn't move....he just sings.  
    -- Mike McGary

The following from Znofyl and Nathan are about as good an answer to this
mystery as we're likely to get without growing quills ourselves:

    I wonder whether the hedgie isn't responding to this alarm noise 
    thinking it is another male. My males are VERY noisy when breeding.
    -- Znofyl

    This sounds really likely to me.  My male's mating noise is a sort of
    breathy ``squeeEEEEEk-squeeEEEEEk''---is that the general tenor of 
    Adam's morning ditty?  
    -- Nathan Tenny

From my own experience, when Velcro first learned about the arrival of his 
first girlfriend, Sprocket, he put on the most amazing little session of 
barking and squeaking.  She, in turn, frequently squeaked, especially if she
was trying to nudge her way out from between someone's fingers to get to the 
rest of the world.

We have also had the experience of Mike McGary's ``rabbit-caught-in-a-trap''
squealing, shortly after bringing home Hocus and Pocus.  The den they share
only has one entrance/exit, and apparently one of the girls was blocking
the door from the other one.  It was quite a scary sound to hear, but the
girls appeared none the worse for wear by the time we arrived seconds later,
out of breath from a mad dash.

Recently I've had several reports of hedgehogs 'purring':

    Sonic purrs, like a cat!  He only does it when he's eating something 
    wonderful - usually a chicken or turkey stick (I always hold him when 
    he gets these) and I can hear him making short bursts (2-5 seconds) 
    that sounds and feels (the vibration) like a low cat purr.  I'm  assuming 
    this is good, since he devours the stick like he's starving, although 
    he always has dry kitten chow (yes, he eats it) in his dish.
    -- Debbie Allen

While I haven't had this experience, it certainly sounds like quite the
thing.

The gist of this whole section is really to let readers know that hedgehogs
are capable of making a wide range of sounds -- if and when they want.

At this rate, a hedgehog dictionary may be the next big addition to the
FAQ!

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

8. *** Basic health care ***

------------------------------

Subject: <8.1> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  

Given that hedgehogs are not overly social except during mating, (and even 
then it can often be a tentative truce at best) it is unlikely that 
spaying/neutering is anything you need to worry about.  In addition to 
this, I suspect you would be hard pressed to find a veterinarian who 
could (let alone would) do the operation.

As a cautionary reminder, hedgehogs as young as 6 weeks old can, and will,
mate.  If you do have babies, remember to separate them before this age,
or you will have even more hoglets on the way, and probably not as you would
want.

In short, altering your hedgehog is not a worry, although Velcro would have 
me believe that it might be worthwhile -- he's made his desires towards 
my females abundantly clear, and would have me overrun with hoglets in no 
time given half the opportunity (the ladies, however, have defended their 
virtue admirably).

------------------------------

Subject: <8.2> What health risks should I worry about?

Hedgehogs have an amazing immunity to most things that are toxic.  
Quantities of many toxins that would kill a human hundreds or even
thousands of times over will often have no noticeable effect on a 
hedgehog at all.  This trait has inspired both legends and scientific
research, with no conclusive results other than acknowledgment that
it is true.

This means that should your hedgehog accidentally encounter any of the
numerous poisons that exist within every modern home, chances are your
little friend will wander off none the worse for wear, while if it had
been another type of pet, it may have been in dire need of a visit to the 
vet.

However, just because hedgehogs are considered to be all but poison proof
is no reason for you to take chances.  They are immune to many toxins, 
but there could always be an exception.  You should supervise your 
hedgehog's wanderings and keep dangerous substances tucked safely away.

As I pointed out in [2.1], Pat Storer's books discuss blood chemistry and
what kinds and doses of various medicines have been used successfully to
treat hedgehogs.  I strongly suggest you get a copy of one of these books, if 
for no other reason than to bring with you to the veterinarian, in the case 
of an emergency, so he or she knows what to expect and what to do about 
problems.

    They can get worms---it's probably a good idea to have them wormed 
    regularly, once or twice a year.  Oral Ivermectin works; I don't know 
    what the dosage is, but the vet has indicated that it's a little higher 
    (per unit of body weight) than for most animals. 
    -- Nathan Tenny

Hedgehogs are also susceptible to fleas, which you might want to be 
concerned about if you have other pets, especially if they are 
indoor/outdoor pets.  Treatment of fleas is well described in the Flea and 
Tick FAQ [9.4], and most safe commercial flea treatments should work.
One possible caveat is that bathing hedgehogs can be problematic, and for
young hedgehogs, quite dangerous [6.6].  A number of books and articles I've seen
warn strictly against it, while others recommend it as something that adults
can enjoy.  My own experience has been that my hedgehogs definitely don't 
like it, while other people I've heard from say their hedgies love bath
time.  Fortunately, since most hedgehogs are likely to be indoor only pets, 
this often greatly reduces the chances of them ever getting fleas.

Far more of a problem than fleas are mites [8.4] which are a fairly common 
pest among hedgehogs.

I would also like to add a quick reminder here about using solid wheels,
and to pad the spokes to prevent injuries [5.6].

One other area of concern is obesity.  Hedgehogs can easily become 
overweight, partially due to their potential for hibernation [7.3], they can,
and will, pack on weight in preparation for a lengthy hibernation that never 
comes.  Letting them hibernate is NOT the answer -- a diet and exercise are.
If your hedgehog is getting too plump, just cut back on his food a bit, and 
try to encourage activity by letting him run around, or giving him a wheel.

------------------------------

Subject: <8.3> Vaccinations, etc.

Although this could fit into the previous section, I felt it deserved a 
section of its own.  After taking my herd of cats in for their annual shots, 
I found myself wondering about what shots, if any, a hedgehog should have.  
Primarily, the biggest worry in North America is likely rabies, but there are 
other potential fungal/bacterial/viral infections as well.  

After talking with my (non-hedgehog oriented) vet, I took my questions to the 
appropriate source (thanks Cathy Johnson-Delaney, DVM).  It turns out the 
answer is quite simple, yet complicated (don't you just love it when answers 
are like that?).

As a general rule, for indoor hedgehogs that are not exposed to the dangers
of outdoors, there is no need to worry.  What complicates this is that local
authorities may not see it that way, and especially in areas where diseases
such as rabies exist, and they might be VERY insistent on vaccination -- even 
though no vaccine has been approved for hedgehogs yet.  So, you don't need to
vaccinate your hedgehog, unless otherwise required -- clear as mud, right?

Here are some words of wisdom from Cathy to help clear things up a bit, and
to try and cover the problem areas of what to do when you DO need to vaccinate
a hedgehog, or get treatment otherwise.  Remember, this is primarily her
professional opinion, and not a set of absolute truths.  

    At present, there are no vaccinations for pet hedgehogs.  They are 
    not susceptible to dog/cat diseases, or as far as I know, really any 
    of the major agricultural/livestock disease problems (well in North 
    America anyway - we don't vax our livestock for Foot & Mouth, which 
    hedgies can get, but North America is FM free).  Theoretically, they 
    can get sick with many of the bacterial diseases of livestock, but the 
    chances of them being exposed as indoor housepets is just about nil, 
    unless you take them outside and let them mingle with pigs, chickens, 
    cows, horses in breeding/dirty environments and let them feed on dung 
    (I think they would risk getting stepped on first).   

    The only exception to this might be if you were housing your hedgies 
    outdoors in caging part of the year and rabies was a threat in your 
    area - then I might recommend vaccinating with a killed rabies vax 
    (Imrab) as a precaution, like we do for pet bunnies housed outdoors 
    in rabies endemic areas.  Realize that:

        1. the vax is not approved for that species, no efficacy trials 
           have been done 

        2. since it is not a recognized vax and is a non-domestic species, 
           the FDA or Public Health Service/Dept/CDC (or Canada's 
           equivalent) will not recognize the animal as being vaccinated 
           so if the hedgie bites anyone, the animal will just be 
           euthanized and tested. NO ifs, ands, or buts.... 

    So the best all round precaution is not to let others handle your 
    hedgie lest he bite someone, and that someone gets his/her physician, 
    public health dept, etc. involved. 

    The actual risk from rabies in an indoor pet hedgie is, in my 
    opinion, non-existent, but public health people have regulations and 
    hedgies fall into the blanket category of non-domestics so all rules 
    apply. 

Another set of suggestions Cathy had was for sources for your veterinarian:

    Your veterinarian needs to have the most current published vet lit 
    on hedgehogs:

        Journal of Small Exotic Animal Medicine: Vol 2, No 1: Husbandry and 
        medicine of African Hedgehogs by Anthony J. Smith DVM   reprints - 
        contact JSEAM, back issues PO Box 618686    issue out of print, but 
        article itself avail for $5.00

        J of Small Exotic Animal Med: Vol 3 No. 1 pgs 12-15  Neonatology of 
        the hedgehog (Atlerix albiventrix) by Anthony J. Smith, DVM  (issue 
        just arrived today!!!!!!!!!)  order above through JSEAM

        Isenbugel, E. Baumgartner, RA 1993: Diseases of the Hedgehog. In: 
        Zoo and Wild Animal Med, Current Therapy III, WB Saunders, Phila PA  
        Chapter starting page 294

        Hoefer, HL 1994. Hedgehogs. In: Quesenberry KE, HIllyer EV (eds). 
        The Vet Clin of No Amer, Sm Anim Pract, Exotic Pet Med II, Vol 24, 
        No 1, WB Saunders, Phila PA, Pp113-120.

    I am working on a clinicians' handbook for Wingers Publications that 
    we hope to have completed by fall. It will contain info on hedgies, 
    diets, formulary, etc.  (even things like blood draws, radiographic 
    views, fluid therapy......)

    Please pass the list of references to your veterinarian as sooner 
    or later he/she will need them.  (Murphy's law says that if you do, 
    [your hedgehog] won't).

------------------------------

Subject: <8.4> Mites (or mites, not?)

One of the most common problems that pet hedgehogs can suffer from are
mites.  Kathleen Close sent along a some thoughts from her veterinarian
regarding mites, and how common they can be:

    He said 90% of the hogs he's seen do [have mites].  It looks like a 
    white crusty coating on their quills.  The doc just gives them a shot.  
    It won't bother the hhog, but will poison the mites when they bite.

How common mites are may be related to where you live.  Also, it's quite
common for a hedgehog to arrive already having mites.  Indeed, many breeders
may not even notice it, since it is rather easy to pass off as being
'normal' when it is not too bad.

Some of the signs of mites are crusty deposits, especially around the eyes
and at the base of the quills, and loss of quills.  Don't panic if your 
hedgehog loses occasional quills -- they're much like our hair like that
(although for some of us, this comparison might not work -- if you're like
me, don't wait until there are no quills left thinking it's normal).  If
your hedgehog seems to be losing quite a few quills, more than you think 
is right, it's probably time to do something about it.

Treating an average case of mites can be done at home, using a mild flea or
Tick spray (for example Adams Flea Spray).  Make sure you avoid the long
lasting sprays, and spray your little friend down along his back from front
to rear, making sure you avoid the head.  Repeat this in a couple of days
for 2 or 3 treatments and that should curb the mites.  You will also need
to completely clean out the cage when you do this or the mites hiding in the
bedding will just wait until the spray wears down, and hop back on.

One quick note, the bedding can often be the source of the mites.  It is
possible to get mite infested packages of bedding.  You might want to switch
to another package, and preferably another brand of bedding to be on the safe
side.  Most reputable brands of pet bedding attempt to treat their bedding
products so they are pest free, but it is always possible that some managed
to get through.  In an emergency, you can use shredded newspaper to carry 
you through until you get new bedding.

Here are some cautions to help you decide if the can of flea spray you're
looking at will do the job and be safe:

   One important note: *make sure that the insecticide listed is pyrethrin*.
   Pyrethrin is the natural insect repellent (well, it comes from a flower).

   For those of you who aren't familiar with Adam's, it's an alcohol based 
   mist.  When you first spray it on an animal, all you can smell is the 
   alcohol. (whew)  It dries very quickly and after it dries, it has a 
   pleasant smell.
   -- Christi Cantrell

I suspect many such sprays are going to use an alcohol base, so beware that
you don't get too much overspray in the air -- it isn't good for your hedgie
(or you) to be breathing it.

If you are in any doubt as to the safety of a spray, try a small amount 
sprayed on the rump.  If there are any adverse effects, wash your hedgehog
quickly and make tracks to a veterinarian, taking the can with you.


Treating a serious case of mites can require a trip to the veterinarian.  
While it's not particularly difficult to treat, the problem can become 
serious if left untreated.  To give you a perspective on mites, 'mange' is 
caused by a type of mite.

Here are a few cautionary words from Todd Reeves, courtesy of his 
veterinarian, on treating hedgehogs for mites:

    Just a little note tomorrow I'm giving all my hedgies a mite BATH.  I 
    had a little discussion with my new vet, she has a little bit of 
    experience with the little pin cushions, she says that the ingredient 
    that they use to dilute the ivermectin (Propolyne Glycol) [this is the
    most commonly used medication for treating mites -- ed.] is extremely 
    toxic and it is the main source of the deaths in a lot of animals that 
    are treated with it.  If I were to give them invermectin injections she 
    says the solution would have to be pure and not diluted.  Of course this 
    makes for incredibly small dosages almost impossible to administer.  As
    an alternative she has given me MITABAN, which is even more toxic, but 
    it is in a liquid form that is diluted in water and administered as a 
    BATH.  I have to put an eye ointment on them first......I'm sure I'll 
    have lots of entertaining attempts at this.  I know that at least 3 of 
    my hedgies will allow me to do this but Sahsha will have a little fit.

I have heard of many hedgehogs being safely and properly treated by 
Ivermectin, but as always with an animal of this size, dangers exist when
dealing with very powerful medications.

Recently, Michael (knuckles) passed along the following information care
of his veterinarian (note: this describes a pretty thorough mite 
infestation):

    First, yes -- you can see hedgemites.

    We were so unsure as to whether he had them because hedgemites live
    under the skin [note: in many bad cases they can be seen moving along
    the quills, if you look carefully -- ed.].  Their waste is usually the 
    first sign you'll see of an infected hedgehog because mites leave their 
    waste as white-brown circular crusts surrounding the base of the hog.  
    Using a pair of tweezers, I removed one of the suspecting crusts and 
    looked hard at what I had between the prongs.  Crawling around the crust 
    and onto the tweezers were tiny white specks.  These specks appeared to 
    be two-parted, meaning the middle was almost a clear line from side to 
    side.  My wife suggested the mites looked like a pair of Mini-Wheats 
    (cereal) from 1,000 feet up [glad I'm not a morning person, I may never
    eat breakfast again -- ed.].

    The reason why I say the white-brown crusty waste is the first sign is
    that prior to seeing this, my long and hard looks at Iggy's skin showed 
    no sign of movement from the mites.  Just lots of dandruff.  You could 
    put him on a black towel, roll him around, and it would look like it had 
    just snowed on the towel.

    Iggy took the injection quite well. We let him curl up into a towel, I
    held the towel against my chest and she stuck the needle into his rump. 
    He didn't even flinch. I expected him to burrow through my chest and into
    the wall behind me. Nada.

    Hog skin seems to be pretty darn thick, too. She really had to work to
    get the needle in.

    I hope this helps, and keep in mind my summations based upon this
    experience is just that: I'm no professional so take my conclusions at
    face value if you're dealing with your own hog, of course!
    -- Michael (knuckles)

Michael also expressed relief over his vet opting not to use a mite powder.
While I don't know if it would be dangerous if used carefully, powders can
cause problems in hedgehogs if they get in the eyes, or end up being inhaled.
Using either injections (from your vet), or a spray (where chances of 
inhaling it are over quickly, and it's far easier to protect against, and 
these can be flushed away from eyes much easier in the event of an accident),
are safer options.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

9. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

------------------------------

Subject: <9.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for?

NOTE:  I am not a veterinarian.  I haven't even owned (been owned by?)
a hedgehog for many years.  Hedgehogs tend to be very resistant to disease
once they reach adulthood, this makes for relatively easy care.  As with
all pets, any change in normal behavior, or eating, drinking, sleeping,
or litter habits may indicate a health problem that bears looking into.
At the moment there is little I can offer beyond this as far as warning 
signs.  

Hedgehogs are small.  While they generally enjoy very good health, any
kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in only a couple of days, so
if you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately.

Another type of problem that can occur in hedgehogs, though not that commonly
are tumors or abscesses inside the mouth, and various dental related 
problems.  Feeding them a diet which involves a substantial amount of dry
(crunchy) food will help avoid some of these problems.  Often these problems
can be handled without complications, by a vet if caught early.

Another problem which occurs in female hedgehogs are mammary tumors.  Again,
if caught early enough, these can be surgically removed by a vet.  
Fortunately, this isn't a common problem, but it is a life threatening one
if and when it does occur.


------------------------------

Subject: <9.2> My hedgehog's had funny-looking stools for a couple of days.
         What's wrong?

Normal hedgehog droppings can range from almost pellet-like to quite soft
and sticky.  Colour is usually very dark brown, almost black.  Depending
on diet, especially treats, they can vary quite a bit.  If your hedgehog
is leaving unusual droppings after having had a treat or change in diet
a day or so before, then it is probably related to what he ate.  If the
problem continues (assuming the hedgehog is back on his normal diet),
or if your hedgehog is suffering from severe diarrhea, see your vet, 
immediately.

As mentioned in section [6.2], some hedgehog food (though this now appears
to have been changed to avoid this, and possibly other problems) can affect 
the colour of the droppings for a week or so.  If you have just started 
feeding your prickly friend hedgehog food, the red coloured droppings are 
normal, and are not a sign of problems.

There are, however, some serious problems that are indicated by funny 
looking stools.  Remember that if you've fed your hedgie something odd,
that is likely the cause of the problem, but if he's been on his normal
diet, and changes in his stools happen, it may be a warning sign.  For
example:

    A good sign that there's something definitely wrong with your hedgie 
    is stinky black tarry looking stool.  If anyone's hedgie shows that 
    it's [potentially] an internal lesion and the hedgie should be rushed 
    to the vet IMMEDIATELY.

    The vet said he had necropsis of the kidney, mineralization of the 
    heart, a lesion in his lower stomach and a touch of pneumonia or the 
    flu (they think he got that the last day he lived, just another 
    infection setting in).  They think that it was his kidney's malfunctions 
    that brought that all about, and they think that it was something he may 
    have been born with.

    -- Ligia Ortega (via her veterinarian, from tests following the
       death of her hedgehog, Howard)

While similar symptoms in your hedgehog might not indicate the same problem,
a trip to a knowledgeable vet is probably worthwhile.  In general, serious
kidney problems in hedgehogs are probably not easily treatable, but catching
such problems early might make a big difference.

------------------------------

Subject: <9.3> My hedgehog's not eating.  What should I do?

This is often the sign of either a sick, depressed, or especially a chilled 
[7.3] hedgehog.  Assuming your hedgehog is warm enough, and there is no 
likelyhood of unusual stress (which can also put a hedgehog off eating), you 
may want to have a vet check for sickness, but clearly the thing that's 
needed is to get your pet back on its dinner.  About the only suggestion I 
can offer is to attempt out and out bribery;  offer your hedgehog his 
favorite treats, and try some cooked chicken or turkey.  If possible, make 
sure he is drinking, and if necessary resort to using some thinned chicken 
broth, or even something as exotic as Gatorade (to help restore 
electrolytes).  Other suggestions for bribery snacks are chopped hardboiled 
egg, and cottage cheese, and mealworms.

Here are a few words of wisdom from Linda Wheatly on getting a hedgehog
to eat:

    If the animal is warm, but not eating, first try varying its diet.
    I will often try raw meat [please note that there are dangers to using
    raw mea as outlined in section [6.2] -- ed.], which often works.  I 
    recently discovered an appetite ``picker upper'' which hasn't failed yet.
    I raise mice also, and will give the poor-eating hedgehogs dead pinky 
    mice.  Hedgehogs will also eat the bigger mice.  If all else fails, and 
    the animal refuses to eat anything, they can be force-fed.  I beat an 
    egg, add a little bit of milk and a tablespoon of corn syrup.  I take a 
    1cc syringe and gently work it into the side of the hedgehog's mouth
    and slowly feed the mixture in.  I generally feed 3cc's four times
    per day.  If the animal is looking dehydrated, I may give it 1 or 2 cc's
    of water with each feeding.  You may have to do this for 4 or 5 days.
    They will start eating again on their own.  They will often show you
    that they are wanting to eat by themselves by really fighting you 
    when you try to force feed them.

Remember, given a hedgehog's small size, not eating can become deadly
in very short order.  If the situation persists for more than a couple of
days, consider taking your little friend to a vet.

------------------------------

Subject: <9.4> How did I get fleas in my home?  How can I get rid of
               them?

Even if your hedgehog is never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or
flea eggs on your shoes or clothing.

There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of
fleas and ticks.  It's distributed in the rec.pets usenet newsgroup.
You can also get it by FTP at:

        ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/fleas-ticks

(that is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and get the indicated file) or by sending
email to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with the line

        send usenet/news.answers/fleas-ticks

in the body of the message (with an empty subject line).

In general, most products which are safe for use on kittens are likely
safe for hedgehogs.  Keeping in mind that bathing baby or young hedgehogs 
can be dangerous and should be avoided if possible [6.6].  It is better 
to spray on such products.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

10. *** Wild hedgehogs ***

------------------------------

Subject: <10.1> Caring for visiting hedgehogs

Many people throughout the world, especially in Europe, have the pleasure of 
having native hedgehogs visit their backyards and gardens.  In many places 
an almost overpowering urge exists to try and help these little visitors -- 
after all, in many cases, they are doing their best to rid your garden of 
undesirable pests, besides they are irresistibly cute.

A quick point here -- this section is on naturally wild hedgehogs, and that
releasing pet hedgehogs into an environment, even one they could survive in,
in order to create a wild population, or just to dispose of a pet you no
longer want, is both cruel and dangerous.  In other words, simply don't do 
it.

You should probably be aware that there is an interesting side effect to 
having visiting hedgehogs in your garden, as Peter Captijn puts it:

    European hedgehogs are known to wake up people sleeping with 
    an open window, when they are mating.  I'm NOT joking: people 
    usually think there are burglars around the house and call the 
    police.

When it comes to providing food for visiting hedgehogs, the age old standard
of a saucer of milk is not particularly nutritious (and can bother hedgehog's
stomachs), although I have no doubt that the hedgehogs dearly love it.  In 
general, the same sorts of rules that apply to pet hedgehogs [6.2], also 
apply for people wanting to feed wild hedgehogs.  The biggest difference
probably being the quantity -- European hedgehogs are MUCH larger than the 
African Pigmy variety, and have larger appetites in corresponding to their 
size (Something can have a bigger appetite than Pocus?  I'd have to see 
that to believe it!).  As with African Pigmy hedgehogs, straight dog/cat 
food is not the ideal food either, unless as Peter Captijn put it ``you find 
hedgeballs thriving'':

    You can feed them any kind of slugs. European hedgehogs eat
    slugs, preferably by the kilo. I've heard and seen (in that
    order) them eating snails, but Morris believes they leave
    them [alone, given the choice of other foods].  (I'm not sure, 
    but they probably need the calcium from the snail's houses.) 
    Fritzsche warns about feeding weakened hedgehogs snails and 
    slugs.  The snails can be infected with lungworms (Crenosoma 
    striatum), which can kill a diseased hedgehog.  
    -- Peter Captijn

Again from Peter is the following on feeding:

    Helga Fritzsche's recipe for hedgehog food:

        500 g meager meatloaf  (I'm not into cooking as you can tell       
       	from the used words)
       	1 stroked of tablespoon lime for pets (Calcium stuff for pets)
       	1 tablespoon of linseed-oil
       	1 handful dogdinner (the hard stuff)
        1 handful oats with bearded wheat (spelt) (This comes right
       	out the dictionary.)

    Mix it and make balls from about 35 grams, put them in alu-
    kitchen-foil and keep them in the freezer.  She recommends
    giving food once or twice (preferably): in the morning a bit
    and in the evening more.  In the morning she gives 10 to 12
    pieces of dogfood and 6 to 8 mealworms.  (Fat ones only get
    water), in the evening one ball of 35 grams of the above, 15
    pieces of dogfood and 6 to 8 mealworms.  Everything is
    depending on the size of the hedgehog.  Keep in mind that
    European hedgehogs are bigger then African Pigmy.  She uses a
    vitamin-prep, 1 or 2 drips on the food.  All food must be on
    hedgehog temperature (at least room temperature).  By the
    way, she kills the mealworms prior to feeding so they can't
    get away.  [have you ever seen a mealworm get away from a
    hedgehog? -- ed]

If you can manage to tolerate handling live food enough to feed it,
most hedgehogs love to hunt a bit as suggested by Anja van der Werf:

    Please don't kill mealworms before feeding them to the animals: they 
    (the hedgehogs) have a right to have fun too.

With that comes a gentle reminder that pet hedgehogs or wild hedgehogs
that are in captivity (such as convalescing from injury or illness), do 
need some entertainment -- a barren cage means a boring life for an animal 
that usually spends its nights snuffling over a surprising expanse of
territory.  Do your friends a favour, and let them play.


With the number of hedgehogs killed on roads, it's not surprising
that orphaned babies do occur.  If you come across baby hedgehogs
wandering about on their own, during the middle of the day, there
is a good chance that they are orphans.  That said, don't simply
collect them and take them home to care for them.  Unless they are
obviously in dire straits, it's best to give them a day or possibly
two to see if mom does return.  If she hasn't within that time, you
should probably consider taking action.  What you feed them depends
on their age.  If they are old enough it might be possible to feed
them canned cat or dog food (or one of the recipes above).  If they
are too young, take a look at the suggestions for nursing replacements
outlined in the section on  Feeding baby hedgehogs <6.3>.  The same
formulas will work for baby European hedgehogs, only the quantities 
will likely be quite a bit greater (the 'hog' part of the name isn't
there for no reason...).

Another thing you can do for orphaned hedgehogs, is to contact one of
the organizations that provide sanctuaries or assistance (such as St.
Tiggywinkles <2.8>).  They can often provide information or assistance,
and can even provide a home for the babies.  This also goes for injured
or sick hedgehogs that you might happen across.


------------------------------

Subject: <10.2> Hedgehog housing

Most European countries are very protective about their native hedgehogs,
so this section does not refer to caging or keeping hedgehogs, but more 
about providing shelter and protection for those that come to visit.

Here are some ideas from Peter Captijn on providing dens (see [2.9] also):

    I have two daytime-sleeping-dens under some foliage. These are 
    open constructions which give protection against wind and rain.
    And they like it, I may say. Every year there are some hedgehogs 
    in the garden, and sometimes, when I'm lucky, a pregnant female 
    likes it so much that she decides to have her hoglets in one of 
    the dens. I call it daytime-sleeping-dens but the hedgehogs 
    regularly hibernate in them.

    The roof isn't attached permanently but can be removed by lifting 
    it.  It fits tight by some wooden blocks. Hence I can clean it
    once a year (when it is not in use: no fresh droppings).  The
    den is made of water-resistant multiplex (without formaldehyde!), 
    the roof is decked with asphalt-paper.  Untreated wood can be 
    painted (use lead-free paint!) to give it a green-brownish look. 
    In the left top view: in the right under corner I drill some 1 cm 
    holes to let the piss drain away, but I'm not sure it's really 
    needed.  Hedgehogs use these den's to sleep in and do not often 
    soil it.  If they do, they choose a corner and use that always. 
    I fill this den with some fresh (petstore) hay, but the hedgehog 
    usually redecorates it with old leaves and such.

Peter also sent along some great drawings, which I will try to ASCIIize 
and include in an upcoming revision of the FAQ.

------------------------------

Subject: <10.3> Hedgehogizing your garden

There are a lot of things you can do to make your garden more appealing 
and safer for visiting hedgehogs -- all of which will encourage them to
visit.  Of course, having a bumper crop of slugs is probably number one 
on the hedgehog's list, but likely somewhere below the bottom of yours!

If you want to attract hedgehogs to your garden (assuming they are native
to your area), one of the best ways (as always with hedgehogs) is bribery.
Put out some food, preferably something like canned cat or dog food, or
some cooked eggs (scrambled supposedly works well).  

Fresh water is always a good lure too, though beware of offering too much in
the way of a swimming pool without a way out (see below).

Finally, a safe place to live, like a leaf pile, or better yet a hedgehog
house as described by places like the BHPS [2.8] or by burying a wooden
box (upside down) with a short underground access.

When it comes to protecting hedgehogs, there is usually little danger to them
in the garden from other animals or objects, as illustrated here by Peter 
Captijn:

    I have two cats (females), and the garden is frequently visited 
    by many others (males!), but I'm still in doubt whether I should 
    protect the cats from the hedgehog, or vise versa.  The hedgehog 
    usually barges through, whether there is a cat lying in its way 
    or not [gee, that sounds familiar - ed.].  The only risk I probably 
    have, is getting hedgehog-pests contaminated cats.  Hedgehogs aren't 
    bothered easily, they have repeatedly walked over my mother's feet.

That said, there are dangers lurking in many gardens.  Again, here are some
words of wisdom from Peter Captijn:

     Please note that ANY PESTICIDE you'll use in your garden is bound
     to end up in your HEDGEHOG, which means in an alarming rate: NO 
     HEDGEHOG!  Hedgehogs are resistant against animal poisons, not 
     man-made pesticides.  Hedgehogs do not destroy gardens, they do 
     not dig, they only manure it.  They (try to) keep your garden free 
     of pests and bugs.  

One of the worst things by way of pesticides is slug bait.  This builds up
in slugs, which are one of the hedgehogs favorite foods, and hence in the
hedgehog.  If possible, avoid the slug bait and let the hedgehogs do the 
slug-removal, or if you must use it, make sure you keep hedgehogs out of your 
garden.

Another, somewhat odd problem is that hedgehogs seem to compulsively crawl
into or through things (or at least try to, often becomming stuck).  This 
includes cans, plastic rings from drink cans, nets, plastic yoghurt or 
ice cream cups, and even key-rings.  Why they feel a need to go into or 
through instead of around is anyone's guess, but anything a hedgehog can get 
into, he will, and if it's possible to become stuck, he will.

Also, pools and ponds present a unique problem to visiting hedgehogs.  Many
man-made pools and ponds have smooth sides, which are too slippery or steep
for a hedgehog, who has accidently fallen in, to climb out.  One of the 
easiest safeguards I have seen for this is to simply dangle a thick rope 
into the water and tie the other end off to a stake.  This is usually enough
for a hedgehog to climb out with.  Hedgehogs can swim, and will follow 
around the outside of the pool or pond looking for some way to get out.  The
only time they tend to drown is in cases where they get too tired searching 
for a non-existent way out.  Another method some people use is to create a 
wooden ramp, with one end floating in the water, and the other end safely 
attached on dry land.

------------------------------

Subject: <10.4> Wild hedgehog health

For the most part, wild hedgehogs are quite able to look after themselves.
Here is a reminder from Peter Captijn that as friendly as wild hedgehogs are, 
they are still wild animals and certain realities apply:

    When a wild hedgehog has to be kept in house or with other 
    hedgehogs, it's a good idea to get rid of the fleas and ticks [9.4]
    before you infect your clean house. Most people use cat spray, but
    ticks tend to live through that. Bathing in vermin killing stuff 
    will be the solution. It can be done (preferably once) in a little 
    warm water so the hedgehog can't drown. Never use sprays or 
    whatever on piglets/hoglets, and never spray something in the 
    eyes, you can blind the hedgehog.  Please remind: a healthy wild 
    hedgehog has vermin, always! This is natural.

Also from Peter are some pointers on various other health problems:

    Rabies: from various sources - European hedgehogs don't get
    rabies.  Whether that means they just die very quick, or that
    they are immune, I don't know.

[Editor's note: hedgehogs 'can' get rabies, but due to the way they live, it 
is relatively rare, at least as compared to other, more aggressive or easily
bitten animals]

    Diseases: I can list the vermin hedgehogs usually get and
    the remedy (using German medicine, but perhaps you can
    get/use them in the US) if you're interested.  About
    lungworms; Fritzsche writes about German scientific study
    regarding lungworms by hedgehogs.  Lungworms are capsulated
    in the lungs and die.  If the hedgehog isn't healthy, this
    apparently doesn't work [fast enough?], and the hedgehog dies.  
    I do have hedgehogs running free in the garden, and I hear and 
    see [them] (in that order) eat snails and slugs, every day, and 
    quite a lot of them.  I won't hesitate to offer a hedgehog a 
    snail, but I can't estimate the involved risk (if any).

------------------------------

Subject: <10.5> Watching out for hibernating hedgehogs

European hedgehogs hibernate during the winter months (unlike wild African 
Pigmy hedgehogs who tend to do the opposite, aestivating during the hot dry 
periods [7.3]).  

The core hibernation months for hedgehogs are typically January through
March, with some hedgehogs who haven't put on enough weight in time still
staying up and around until February (usually desperately trying to add
to their winter fat so they can survive the cold).

Hibernation is a tough time for hedgehogs.  If they haven't put on enough 
weight, or if it is a particularly long or cold winter, they just might not 
make it.  However, even well fed hedgehogs who think they've found the 
ideal, snug, warm place to survive the winter can run into modern problems, 
as described by Seabury Salmon:

    About Fall time, they hibernate in piles of leaves and things at the
    bottom of the garden. The British gardener is a tidy beast and likes to
    burn the leaves. Hence, roast hedgehog.

Before you start burning your leaves, etc., give the pile a quick check in
case a friendly neighbourhood hedgehog has made a winter den in the middle
of your refuse.

    European [hedgehogs] prepare for hibernation when it gets real
    cold: 7 degrees Celsius and below (about 16 degrees Fahrenheit).
    -- Peter Captijn

(Forgive me Peter, but I wish I lived with your idea of ``real cold'' -- that
sounds like a nice warm spring or autumn day!)

Hedgehogs will often remain curled up in hibernation until well into April.
If you discover one in a pile of leaves in your garden in the spring, you
can give him a good start to the year by putting out a pan of dog or cat
food where he will find it when he wakes up.  You may even gain a friend
who will continue to visit your garden.

-- 
My opinions belong to me and my company can't have them!
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