Archive-name: pets/ferret-faq/part4
Last-modified: 12 Sept 1996
Posting-Frequency: monthly (around the 20th)
Version: 3.0.1
URL: http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/central.html

FERRET FAQ (part 4 of 5) -- HEALTH CARE
Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu>
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!

This document is copyright 1994-1996 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section
0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and
redistribution rights.  In short, you can give it away, but you can't
charge for it or include it in any for-profit work without permission.

The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
wherever you obtained this one.  Most people will want to look at
parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5.  A complete table of
contents for all five files is given in Part I.  Please at least read
section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ.  In addition, there are separate
FAQ's for several common ferret diseases.  Information about those is
given in section [1.1].

Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file.  I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

Part 4: HEALTH CARE

8. *** Basic health care ***

   (8.1) Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting?  
         Declawing?
   (8.2) What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?
   (8.3) Can I vaccinate my own ferrets?
   (8.4) What kind of checkups should my ferret be having?  
   (8.5) Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems?
   (8.6) How do I contact Dr. Williams?  I hear he'll help with 
         diagnoses.

9. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

   (9.1) What warning signs of disease should I watch for?
   (9.2) My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days.  What's 
         wrong? 
   (9.3) What are these little (black oily)/(red waxy)/(orange crusty) 
         spots on my ferret's tail/skin?
   (9.4) How well do ferrets handle heat?  What about cold?
   (9.5) How can I get rid of these fleas?
   (9.6) How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites?  What do I do about 
         them?
   (9.7) Do I need to worry about heartworms?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

8. *** Basic health care ***

------------------------------

Subject: (8.1) Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting?
               Declawing?

Ferrets intended as pets must be neutered or spayed. Neutering
drastically reduces the odor of a male, prevents him from marking his
territory with smelly slime, and makes him less aggressive (males in
season may kill other ferrets, even females).  Spaying saves a
female's life, since once she goes into heat she will need to be bred
or she will almost certainly die of anemia.  However, many people
disagree with the common practice of performing the surgery at a very
early age, and prefer to wait until the ferret is at least six months
old.  It should be done before the first time the ferret would go into
heat, but apart from that there's no rush.

Breeding ferrets is difficult and time-consuming.  The actual mating
is rather violent, and jills tend to have problems giving birth,
producing milk, and so forth.  If you're serious about breeding, talk
to someone who has first.  You'll need to have more than one whole
male available (in case your female goes into heat when your male
isn't) and more than one breeding female available (in case you need a
foster mom because your jill has milk problems) -- and be prepared to
lose some or all of the kits and perhaps the mom too.  Grim, but true.

There's debate about whether descenting ferrets is necessary or
useful, and some belief that it's harmful.  It's bad for a ferret's
health to descent it before 6 or 7 weeks of age, and it may be
somewhat harmful when done at any age.  Many people feel that the
procedure accomplishes no purpose; that is, that neutered ferrets who
aren't spraying smell the same whether or not they've been descented.
Note that, like a skunk, a ferret will use its scent if it's greatly
distressed or feeling amorous, but ferrets can't spray their scent as
effectively as a skunk, it doesn't smell as bad, and it dissipates in
just a few seconds.  How often a ferret sprays and how bad it smells
depend on the individual ferret, and different people have different
tolerances for the scent, so if given the option you may want to wait
and see if you think descenting is necessary in your particular case.

Most pet stores sell neutered and descented kits.  Many breeders sell
kits which have been neutered but not descented.

Ferrets have nails like dogs, not cats.  They shouldn't be declawed.

------------------------------

Subject: (8.2) What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?

Fervac-D or Fromm-D canine distemper vaccine
    Kits should get three shots, four weeks apart, with the last one
    no earlier than 14 weeks; for example, shots at 8, 12, and 16
    weeks.  (Some vets recommend four shots, three weeks apart,
    instead.  Two is not enough.)  Then a yearly booster shot.
    Although rabies gets more press, the canine distemper vaccine is
    much more important for your ferret's health.

    Adults who have never been vaccinated, or whose vaccination status
    is unknown, should get two canine distemper shots, three weeks
    apart, then yearly boosters.  If you know they've been vaccinated
    within the last year, then one shot is enough.

    If you can't get Fervac-D or Fromm-D, or if your ferret has
    reacted to them in the past, Galaxy-D is an acceptable third
    choice.  If you can't get either of these, you're taking the risk
    that your ferret won't be protected, or worse, that he'll become
    sick from the vaccine.  At least be sure that it's a vaccine for
    canine distemper which is a MODIFIED LIVE virus and was NOT
    cultured in ferret tissue.

Imrab-3 rabies vaccine
    One vaccination at 14-16 weeks, separated from the distemper
    vaccines by 2-3 weeks, then boosters yearly.  This is the same
    rabies vaccine that's used for dogs and cats, so your vet should
    have it around.  It's good for three years in cats, but only one
    year in ferrets, mainly because the company hasn't done tests to
    see how long it lasts in ferrets.  This is the only rabies vaccine
    approved for ferrets.

Comments
     Ferrets do not need to be vaccinated for feline distemper or
     parvo.  They should not be given a 5-way dog vaccine.

     It's best to give the distemper and rabies vaccines be spaced a
     couple of weeks apart, since giving them at the same time seems
     to increase the chances of an adverse reaction.

     If you want to change a ferret's vaccination schedule, for
     instance to move all your pets to the same schedule, you can
     safely give another vaccination as long as it's been at least a
     month since the last one.

     Most states don't recognize the rabies vaccine for ferrets,
     because official studies of virus shedding time in ferrets are
     yet to be done.  This means that even if your ferret is
     vaccinated, it may be destroyed if someone reports to the
     authorities that they were bitten.  However, having the
     vaccination may keep the person from reporting a bite in the
     first place, and of course it will protect your ferrets from
     getting rabies.  (Even closely watched ferrets do occasionally
     escape.)

Like any other animals, ferrets occasionally have adverse reactions to
vaccinations, typically on the second or third exposure to a
particular vaccine.  Reactions are rare, but they can be
life-threatening.  You may want to stay at your vet's for 30-60
minutes after a vaccination, just in case of a reaction.

------------------------------

Subject: (8.3) Can I vaccinate my own ferrets?

It's not recommended.  Giving an intramuscular injection to a
squirming or nippy animal is not easy.  Even experienced veterinarians
with good technicians sometimes get bitten.  Also, an injection in the
wrong place can injure the sciatic nerve and permanently paralyze the
ferret's leg; and in case of a bad reaction to the vaccine, a vet has
the experience and equipment on hand which may be needed to save the
ferret's life.

In addition, a licensed veterinarian's signature is required for a
rabies certificate to be legal.  The annual trip to the vet (or semi-
annual, for older ferrets) [8.4] is also the best time to have your 
ferrets checked for other health problems.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

    Unfortunately, vaccination are what supports the vets - sick
    animals don't.  The extra few dollars is what pays the help, and
    the electricity, what feeds the strays that are dropped off weekly
    to your vets, or the dogs that nobody bothers to pick up.  Or the
    ones that are hit by cars and dropped off by Good Samaritans.

However, if you have a lot of ferrets to be vaccinated, you may be
able to save yourself some money by purchasing the vaccines themselves
directly from the manufacturer and taking them to your vet to be used.
You save on the materials, but you still get your vet's expertise.
Check with your vet to see if he or she will work with you like this.

------------------------------

Subject: (8.4) What kind of checkups should my ferret be having?

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says: 

    I know that some practicing vets consider a 3-year animal to be
    "geriatric" and to require a CBC [complete blood cell count] and a
    fasting blood glucose yearly, but as one who stands to make no
    money on this deal anyway, I don't recommend it until age 5.
    Three years is just too young to consider a ferret geriatric.

    Now, remember, all ferrets are different.  If you have one that is
    sort of "puny", never eats well, sluggish, etc.  a yearly CBC and
    glucose is a good idea every year.  But if your three or 4 year
    olds are healthy, well, then it's just not required.  I start mine
    at 5 years.

    Considering dental work - have your vet check the teeth and then
    recommend who needs it.  Not every ferret will need to have it
    done, and if your 4 year olds have been on hard food all of their
    lives, chances are good that they may not need any work yet.

    Remember - a healthy 3- or 4-year old doesn't necessarily require
    any annual bloodwork, but a sickly 2 year old should get it on at
    least an annual basis.

------------------------------

Subject: (8.5) Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems?

A lot of the discussion about ferrets on rec.pets and the Ferret 
Mailing List (FML) deals with health problems, and it's easy to get
the impression that ferrets are constantly ill.  In fact, they're 
pretty hardy animals.

As Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, puts it:

    Ferrets are no more prone to disease than other animals.  However,
    they do have a much shorter lifespan, so these problems come up an
    a more frequent basis.  Plus, most of us own anywhere between two
    and fifteen animals, and many own more than this, or run shelters.
    When you are dealing with such large numbers of animals, you will
    have proportionately more health problems.

    Also, the FML also has several vets that give health advice.  We
    are well known as a place where you can get a prompt response to a
    question about the health of your animal, and several of us also
    are involved with the health care of many of the animals which you
    read about.

    Another thing to consider is that many of the FMLers live in areas
    where vets are not very familiar with ferrets and their diseases,
    so the FML is a good place to get a second opinion or advice for
    their vets.  I field anywhere from 3-8 phone calls daily [8.6] on
    ferret matters from veterinarians around the country.

    Any type of animal that you may obtain as a pet will have
    predisposition to disease.  Ferrets should be expected to get
    diseases of their own, too.  But as most people on the FML will
    tell you, the benefits are far more than the risks.

------------------------------

Subject: (8.6) How do I contact Dr. Williams?  I hear he'll help
     with diagnoses.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, is a ferret expert who works in the
Department of Veterinary Pathology at the Armed Forces Institute of
Pathology.  The AFIP is keenly interested in the diseases of ferrets.
Because of this, Dr. Williams is available to provide a second opinion
about any diagnosis.  He says:

    I encourage owners who have questions to USE [my phone number].
    Have your vets USE IT.  If I minded people sending me email [at
    <accupath@tomco.net>] or calling me on the phone (remember, it's 
    Mon.-Fri.), I wouldn't post it.  Because of my workload, I
    concentrate now only on medical questions.  But if you have a
    question, and your vet can't seem to answer, feel free to give me
    a call.

        Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, DACVP
        Armed Forces Institute of Pathology
        (202) 782-2600/2602 
	fax (202) 782-9150

Dr. Williams also operates a pathology lab, AccuPath, on his own time.
Tissues of all kinds can be sent there for low-cost, expert examination
with a short turnaround time.  Contact him at <AccuPath@tomco.net> 
(new address as of 12 Sept 1996) or (301) 299-8041 for more 
information.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

9. *** Problems to watch for and related information *** 

------------------------------

Subject: (9.1) What warning signs of disease should I look for?

An outline of noninfectious, parasitic, infectious, and cancerous
health problems in the pet ferret is also available [10.1], as are 
brief explanations of some of the more common ones [10.2].

NOTE: I am not a veterinarian.  I haven't even owned ferrets very
long.  (Dr. Bruce Williams, on the other hand, -is- a vet and ferret
expert.)  The following is by no means a comprehensive list of
symptoms of disease in ferrets.  However, some of the more common
problems are often accompanied by these symptoms.  If you notice one
of these, or any other unusual behavior, see your vet.

ALSO: Ferrets are small.  While they generally enjoy good health, any
kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in a surprisingly short time,
so if you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately.

Lethargy, lack of playfulness, loss of appetite, dull/glassy eyes, etc.
  Symptomatic of a number of problems.

Lack of bowel movement
  If your ferret has gone longer than usual without using the litter
  pan (or some other corner) productively, he may have an intestinal
  blockage.  Certainly by the time it's been 24 hours you should go to
  the vet immediately.  Note that a ferret can continue to defecate
  for as much as a day even with a blockage, since there's still waste
  in the intestines to be eliminated.

  Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

     More often than not, [the cause of a lack of bowel movement] is a
     lack of food intake for some other reason.

     Ferrets generally go to the litter three or four times a day.
     Owners should look for adequate stools, although some may be a
     little loose.  Also look for string-like stools.  Ferrets with
     intestinal blockages can continue to pass stool which is very
     thin- like a pencil lead.  But adequate ferret-proofing [6.1] is
     much more important than stool-watching.

Swollen or painful abdomen
  Bloating may come from many problems such as heart disease, splenic
  enlargement, or even just fat animals.  Pain could be from any of
  several disorders, but the most common is an intestinal blockage,
  caused by eating something indigestible such as a sponge or an
  eraser.  Not all blockages cause abdominal pain, though.

Change in "bathroom" habits
  Suddenly refusing to use a litter pan or missing a lot more than
  usual, signs of discomfort or distress while using a pan, or any 
  funny color or texture in the feces [9.2] or urine could be a sign 
  of any of a number of problems.  Stress, perhaps from a change in
  environment, can also cause this.

Lumps in the body or feet
  These may be cysts or infections, or they might be associated
  with a tumor, either benign or cancerous.  They can also be a sign
  of dietary problems or a vaccine reaction.  Have any swelling or
  lump checked out.  For more information, see the Ferret Medical FAQ
  on Skin Tumors [1.1].

Difficulty using the hind feet, awkward gait, lack of movement
  Most often a sign of an adrenal or islet cell tumor (insulinoma), or
  arthritis, in older ferrets.  Could also be an injured back, the
  result of having been stepped or sat upon, closed in a door, or the
  like.  Ferrets have very flexible spines, but they're easily
  injured.

  Says Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, about hind-end awkwardness:

     This is a common finding in older animals of many species - the
     most common cause is a mild degeneration of the nerves in the
     spinal cord or those innervating the legs.  In most of these
     cases, there is nothing to be done, but it also rarely results in
     paralysis, just variable amounts of weakness.

Overheating
  Ferrets do not tolerate high temperatures well at all.  They (like
  any pet) should NEVER be left in a hot car, and if you're keeping
  them outdoors be sure to provide some shade and plenty of water in
  summer.  Allowing them to sleep under hot radiators is probably also
  a bit risky.  Temperatures as low as the 80's can be life-threatening
  to ferrets without shade and cool water [9.4].

Loose skin and dull eyes
  Generally caused by dehydration, which is quite serious in  such 
  a small animal.  Get your ferret to drink more, take him to a vet for 
  subcutaneous fluids, and look for the underlying cause.

Unexplained hair loss
  Not the usual seasonal shedding, which should happen twice a year
  (but the times may vary due to indoor lighting conditions), but a
  severe loss, especially if more than the tail is affected [7.3].

Seizures
  It's pretty obvious that these indicate some kind of problem.  Most
  often the result of insulinomasin the pancreas causing
  extremely low blood sugar, but there are many other causes too.

Diarrhea or vomiting
  Both of these are serious, since ferrets are easily dehydrated.
  Diarrhea may be caused by milk products, which contain lactose that
  ferrets do not tolerate, or by a number of diseases.  Ferrets do
  sometimes vomit from excitement, stress, a change of diet, or
  overeating, but if it's repetitive or if there are any signs of
  blood, get to a vet.  During shedding season ferrets may "spit up" a
  bit due to hair in the throat.  This can be helped with Petromalt 
  [6.3].  For more information on Epizootic Catarrhal Enteritis (the
  "Green Diarrhea Virus"), see the Ferret Medical FAQ on ECE [1.1].

Sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes, lethargy
 Yes, ferrets catch human flu.  (They can't catch your colds,
  though.)  They'll generally rest and drink a lot.  A visit to the
  vet would probably be a good idea, particularly if the flu looks 
  bad or lasts more than a few days.

Broken tooth
  If only the tip is broken, the tooth may discolor slightly, but it's
  nothing to worry about.  A more extensive break will cause pain, a
  definite unhealthy look to the tooth, and possibly gum problems, and
  should be treated (probably root canal or removal) by a vet or a
  veterinary dentist.

Persistent hacking or coughing
  An occasional cough might be caused by dust or swallowed fur, and
  can be treated with a bit of cat hairball preventative.  A
  persistent cough is most likely a respiratory infection, probably
  viral.  A fever, yellow or green discharge from the eyes or nose, or
  congestion indicate a bacterial infection.  In either case, see a
  vet.  Another possibility is cardiomyopathy.  For more information,
  see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Cardiomyopathy [1.1].

Swollen vulva
  In an unspayed female, she's probably going into heat, especially if
  it's springtime.  For young spayed ferrets, under 18 months or so,
  the most common problem is pieces of the ovary that were missed in
  the spaying and have begun to produce hormones.  These pieces might
  be scattered around the abdomen.  For older ferrets, however, by far
  the most common cause of a swollen vulva is adrenal disease, usually
  cancer.  For more information, see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Adrenal 
  Disease [1.1].

Return to male behavior (in a neutered male)
  The most common reason for a neutered male to try to mate,
  dribble urine or mark his areas, become aggressive, or have erections
  is unusual hormone production caused by adrenal disease.  For more 
  information, see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Adrenal Disease [1.1].
  Other possibilities include cryptorchidism (a testicle which never
  descended into the scrotum and so wasn't removed) or bladder stones.
  The treatment for any of these is surgery.

------------------------------

Subject: (9.2) My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days.
               What's wrong?

Maybe nothing.  If there are no stools at all, though, he may have
an intestinal blockage.

According to Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM:

    Ferrets occasionally have dietary "indiscretions" and may get hold
    of something that is not particularly to the GI tract's liking.
    They may get loose or discolored stools, and if no groceries are
    going in for a day or so, their stools will lose volume and may
    become somewhat thin.  As long as they are playing and acting
    okay, they can usually tolerate this for 48-72 hours.  If it goes
    on any longer than this, or their play/sleep cycles become
    affected, then it's off to the vet for a check.  Most problems
    resolve within 72 hours on their own.  If it doesn't, then there
    may be a problem.  (However watch for dark tarry stools - they are
    more than just discolored and indicate GI bleeding.  If you ever
    see these - go see your vet.  Likewise for profuse green
    diarrhea.)  A one- to two-week course of Laxatone is also a good
    idea following changes in stools.  If there is some foreign matter
    in the intestine, it will help it move along, and, at any rate, it
    won't hurt.

    I caution everyone - don't throw out those abnormal stools without
    going through them (pick them apart in a bowl of water) and seeing
    if there is any foreign material in them.  It may sound "gross",
    but it can tell you if your ferret is eating something it
    shouldn't.

Dr. Charles Weiss, DVM, adds that GI parasites such as giardia and
coccidia can sometimes be the cause, though it's not common; and even
lymphosarcoma may cause funny-looking stools.  Both of those will 
generally present other symptoms, too, though.

One thing you can try for mild cases, especially after consulting your
veterinarian, is Pepto Bismol.  Most ferrets don't like the taste of
the liquid, but you can give them 1/15th of a tablet crushed up in
food instead.

------------------------------

Subject: (9.3) What are these little (black oily)/(red waxy)/(orange
               crusty) spots on my ferret's tail/skin?

Reddish-brown wax or black spots on the tail

Ferrets sometimes get tiny black spots on their tails, often
accompanied by a reddish-brown waxy deposit and hair loss.  They look
a lot like blackheads, and in fact that's probably pretty much what
they are.  Gentle cleaning, perhaps with a medicated cleanser (a
dilute benzoyl peroxide shampoo) that your vet can recommend, should
help, though it may take many weeks.  Often this is a seasonal problem
that clears up on its own in a few months.

Orange-speckled, crusty patches

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

    An orange, flaky discoloration of the skin is a very non-specific
    finding in the ferret.  The crustiness of the skin means that the
    skin is not coming off in small microscopic flakes (1 to several
    cells at a time) like normally happens.  When you see a crust - it
    means that the normal way that a ferret sheds devitalized
    epidermis [dead skin] has been impaired.

    As far as the cause - there is not just one cause.  Many things
    can cause this change - skin parasites, fleas, ear mites,
    bacterial infections of hair follicles, fungus, endocrine disease,
    even distemper.

    Minor skin disorders such as these are more common with age.  They
    may be exacerbated by poor husbandry, or excessive bathing (more
    than once per week to ten days.)

    Most cases are due to a very superficial bacterial infection which
    will respond well to a weekly application of a gentle bactericidal
    shampoo.  Other tests that can be done at the time of diagnosis by
    your vet would include a skin scraping and fungal culture.  Should
    all tests turn up negative, and a four-week course of topical
    therapy not help, then the next step would be biopsy and
    submission to a pathology lab for microscopic examination.

Allergies are another possibility; and the area around bites, whether
caused by fleas or another animal, may take on a pink or orangish
color from dried blood.

------------------------------

Subject: (9.4) How well do ferrets handle heat?  What about cold?


Ferrets don't tolerate heat well at all.  Even temperatures in the 80s
(say, above 27C or so) can cause problems, and older ferrets can be
even more sensitive.  The first thing to do, of course, is to prevent
heat exposure in the first place, by providing shade and plenty of
cool water.  If you live in a hot climate, you must realize that your
ferret will need special care in mid-summer.  Never leave a ferret or
any pet in a car in hot weather, even with the windows partly open.
It just doesn't do enough good.

There are a couple of ways to keep your ferrets cooler if you don't
have air conditioning.  Fans are an obvious idea, and a plastic bottle
of ice wrapped in a towel is also helpful.  Finally, you can drape a
damp towel over your ferrets' cage, set a bucket of water on top, and
drape another wet rag over the side of the bucket so one end is at the
bottom of the bucket and the other is on the cage towel.  The rag acts
as a wick to keep the towel wet, and the cage stays cooler from
evaporation.

Ferrets in distress from heat will first pant, then go limp, then lose
touch with their surroundings.  The first thing to do is to get the
ferret out of the hot place and start cooling him down slowly.  Cool
water is best, but not too cold, since the ferret's body temperature
will drop way too far, with him unable to stop it.  Anything you can
get him to drink is good, but never force liquids into an unconscious
animal.

After these emergency measures, get your pet to the vet immediately.
Even ferrets that seem to have recovered may die within 48 hours due
to the massive shock they've undergone.  Things to watch for include 
tarry stools and vomiting.

On the other hand, ferrets handle cold pretty well.  If they have full
winter coats, they'll be perfectly happy living in a chilly room, say
60 F (15 C).  They can easily handle going outdoors in cold weather,
and many of them love to play in the snow.  Use common sense, though.
Don't take your ferrets out in really frigid (much below freezing) or
wet weather, and bring them inside if they shiver too much, paw at the
door, or try to climb up into your coat.
 
------------------------------

Subject: (9.5) How can I get rid of these fleas?

Even if your ferrets are never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or
their eggs on your shoes or clothing.

There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of
fleas and ticks.  It's distributed in the usenet newsgroup rec.pets.
You can also get it by FTP:
<URL:ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks> 
(that is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and get the indicated file)
or by sending email to 
<mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu>
with the line
SEND usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks
in the body of the message (with an empty subject line).

In general, most products which are safe for use on kittens are safe
for ferrets.  Products containing pyrethins are okay, but don't use
anything containing organophosphates, carbamates, or petroleum
distillates.  Be especially careful with dips and sprays; shampoos are
much safer.  Follow the directions on the bottle carefully.

The Program oral flea medication hasn't been tested on ferrets, but
the general consensus is that it's safe, and many people have been
using it in ferrets (at the cat dose) successfully.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

    You can use a premise spray around the cage, but often, the house
    requires bombing, too.  Get a bomb from your vet which contains
    methoprene (a flea growth regulator).  This will allow you to
    complete the job in just two applications - one to kill the adults
    and larva, the second two weeks later to get the ones that have
    hatched out since the first spray. (Make sure of course to remove
    your ferrets from the house at the time of the bombing...)  Fleas
    can be a real nuisance - before you bomb, make sure to wash all of
    their bedding and vacuum carefully so you only have to do it
    twice....

    Most insect foggers don't have a strong enough residual effect to
    hurt your ferrets. We routinely bomb our house for fleas and two
    hours later, the ferrets and dogs are romping through the house.
    (But I know that Siphotrol has a weak residual.)

    Signs of trouble - lack of appetitie, rumbling stomachs, diarrhea,
    vomiting, salivation, dilated pupils, stumbling.  You probably
    won't see them, but it's nice to know what to look for...

------------------------------

Subject: (9.6) How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites?  What do I do
               about them?

Check when you clean your ferret's ears, perhaps once a month [6.7].
Reddish-brown ear wax is normal, but if you see any thick, black
discharge then you probably have mites.  It's also a good idea to have
your vet check the ears whenever you visit.  You can't catch ear mites
from your pet, but your cats, dogs, and other ferrets certainly can.

Dr. Williams, DVM says:

    Ferrets very commonly get ear mites, so you don't need to get
    upset.  Check with your vet and get two products: a ceruminolytic
    (such as "Oti-Clens"), which will dissolve the wax that the mites
    live in.  This is far preferable to trying to dig the wax out with
    Q-tips.  Then get a good ear miticide from your vet (I use
    Tresaderm).

    Put a little of the ear cleaner (which dissolves the wax) in the
    ear and massage.  Let it sit for about a minute.  Your ferret will
    probably shakes its head, sending wax all over you and the floor.
    Use a Q-tip and gently collect the rest of the wax from the ear
    canal.  You won't hit the ear drum, as the ferrets ear canal is
    roughly L-shaped - you will just be cleaning the vertical part of
    the canal.  After you have cleaned the wax, put the ear drops
    [miticide] in.  Make sure that the fluids that you are using are
    body temperature - put them in your shirt or pocket for a few
    minutes before using.  No one likes cold water in their ears!!!!

    Clean every day for a week to 10 days, stop for a week, and go
    again for another week to take care of mites.  If your problem is
    just dirty ears (some ferrets have a lot of wax) - just use the
    ear wax remover once a week.

    Ivermectin can be used in bad cases, either orally, injected, or
    directly in the ear.  Today I ran across an article (Bell, JA.
    Parasites of Domesticated Pet Ferrets, Comp. Clin. Educ. Pract.
    Vet. 16(5): 617-620), which gives a dosage for topical
    administration of ivermectin:

    Injectable ivermectin is mixed with propylene glycol at a ration
    of approximately 1:20 - then 0.2 to 0.3 ml (4-6 drops) into each
    ear canal daily.  Ferrets on ivermectin for heartworm prevention
    should not have problems with ear mites.

Dr. Susan Brown, DVM says: 

    Do not depend on the oil [used for cleaning] to completely rid
    your pet of mites either although it will help to suffocate them.
    Mites are easily taken care of by using Ivermectin directly in the
    ears at 0.5mg/kg divided into two doses to be used in each ear and
    then repeated in two weeks.  You need to have a positive diagnosis
    of mites made by your vet and get the medication from him or her.

------------------------------

Subject: (9.7) Do I need to worry about heartworms?

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, reports:

    I took a few minutes to call a veterinarian, Dr. Debra Kemmerer in
    Gainesville FL, who has been working with heartworm disease in
    ferrets, and I thought that I would pass on what she has told me.

    She recommends all ferrets in heartworm endemic areas (ask your
    vet if your local is heartworm-endemic - generally southern areas
    have higher rates of heartworms due to increased numbers of
    mosquitoes).

    She is currently using ivermectin in the ferret at the dose of 10
    micrograms/lb.  She mixes her own liquid formula at 100 mcg/ml,
    and gives each ferret 1/10th of a ml per pound of body weight.

    The reason she mixes her own is that in the tablet form that most
    heartworm prevention is available for in dogs, the drug is not
    spread evenly throughout the tablet, so that if you are breaking
    the tablet and giving your ferrets a piece of the tablet, you may
    be giving them too little, or worse, too much.

    For your vets, prior to using prevention, the ferrets (like dogs)
    can be tested with antigen kits (not a direct smear, as many
    infections are "occult" in ferrets, and do not shed the baby worms
    in the blood, as they do in the dog.)  Dr. Kemmerer says that the
    best (and only) effective test out their is Rhone-Merieux's
    "Vet-Red Heartworm Detection Kit".  All others are either not
    effective in diagnosing the disease, or need extensive
    modification.

    She has been formulating her own preventative in liquid,
    easy-dosing form for 7 years now, and has NOT seen any side
    effects.  She does caution, however, that it must be dispensed in
    an amber bottle, so it doesn't degrade in sunlight.

    She also advocates that prevention is the way to go here - she
    expects to lose 50% of the animals treated for heartworm disease.

    I hope that everyone will apprise their vets of these comments.
    For more information about heartworm disease in ferrets, or how to
    prescribe ivermectin in the ferret, you may contact Dr. Debra
    Kemmerer at West End Animal Veterinary Hospital, Gainesville, FL
    at 904-332-4357.

== End of Part 4 ==
-- 
- Pam Greene
Ferret Central <http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/>
            or send INDEX FERRET in email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
