Archive-name: pets/ferret-faq/part2
Last-modified: 3 May 1996
Posting-Frequency: monthly (around the 20th)
Version: 3.0
URL: http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/central.html

FERRET FAQ (part 2 of 5) -- FERRETS AS PETS
Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu>
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!

This document is copyright 1994-1996 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section
0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and
redistribution rights.  In short, you can give it away, but you can't
charge for it or include it in any for-profit work without permission.

The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
wherever you obtained this one.  Most people will want to look at
parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5.  A complete table of
contents for all five files is given in Part I.  Please at least read
section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ.  In addition, there are separate
FAQ's for several common ferret diseases.  Information about those is
given in section [1.1].

Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file.  I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

Part 2: FERRETS AS PETS

3. *** Introduction to ferrets ***

   (3.1) What are ferrets?  Do they make good pets?
   (3.2) Are ferrets wild?  Why are there ferret permits?
   (3.3) What are the different ferret colors?
   (3.4) What do you call a ferret male/female/baby/group?
   (3.5) I'm allergic to cats.  Will I be allergic to ferrets?
   (3.6) Is a ferret a good pet for a child?

4. *** Getting a pet ferret ***

   (4.1) Which color is the best?  Male or a female?  What age?
   (4.2) How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?
   (4.3) Are ferrets legal where I live?  Do I need a license?
   (4.4) Where can I get a pet ferret?  What should I look for?
   (4.5) What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear?  What's 
         the deal with Marshall Farms?
   (4.6) How do I introduce a new ferret to my established one(s)?
   (4.7) Will my ferret get along with my other pets?

5. *** Things you'll need ***

   (5.1) What will I need to take care of my new ferret?
   (5.2) Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?
   (5.3) Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?
   (5.4) What kind of litter should I use?
   (5.5) What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use?
   (5.6) Any suggestions on toys?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

3. *** Introduction to ferrets ***

------------------------------

Subject: (3.1) What are ferrets?  Do they make good pets?

Ferrets are domestic animals, cousins of weasels, skunks and otters.
(Other relatives include minks, ermines, stoats, badgers, black-footed
ferrets, polecats, and fishers.)  They are not rodents; taxonomically 
they're in between cats and dogs, a little closer to dogs.  They are
friendly and make excellent pets.  If you've never met one before, the
easiest way to think of them is somewhere between cats and dogs in
personality, but rather smaller.  Some are cuddly, others more
independent; they vary a lot, just like other pets.

Ferrets are a lot of fun.  They are very playful, with each other and
with you, and they don't lose much of that playfulness as they get
older.  A ferret -- or better, two or more [4.2] -- can be a very 
entertaining companion.  They are smarter than cats and dogs, or at
least they act it.  They are also very inquisitive and remarkably
determined, which is part of their charm but can also be a bit of a
bother.  They are friendly, and they do know and love you, though
for some of them it can take a year or so to fully bond.

They can be trained to use a litter box and to do tricks, and most of
them love to go places with you, riding on a shoulder or in a bag.
They sleep a lot, and they don't particularly mind staying in small
places (a cage, for instance, or a shoulder bag) temporarily, although
they need to run around and play for at least a couple of hours a day.
A "single" ferret won't be terribly lonely, although the fun of
watching two or three playing together is easily worth the small extra
trouble [4.2].  Barring accidents, ferrets typically live 6-10 years.

Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives
as well.  Like kittens and puppies, they require a lot of care and
training at first [6.5, 6.6].  They're "higher maintenance" than cats; 
they'll take more of your time and attention.  Although most ferrets 
get along reasonably well with cats and dogs, it's not guaranteed, so 
if you have large, aggressive pets (particularly dogs of breeds 
commonly used for hunting), keep that in mind.  Likewise, small 
children and ferrets are both very excitable, and the combination 
might be too much [3.6].

Finally, the importance of ferretproofing must be emphasized.  Ferrets
are less destructive than cats, but they love to get into EVERYTHING,
so if you keep them loose you'll need to make sure they can't hurt
themselves or your possessions [6.1]. They love to steal small (and
not so small!) objects and stash them under chairs and behind
furniture.  They like to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be
kept out of reach or they'll swallow bits.  Accessible boxes, bags,
and trash cans will be crawled in, and houseplants within reach are
liable to lose all their dirt to joyful digging.  Finally, many
ferrets tend to scratch and dig at the carpet [6.1].  Naturally, these
traits vary from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty common.
If you're not willing to take the necessary time to protect your
property and your pet, a ferret may not be for you.

------------------------------

Subject: (3.2) Are ferrets wild?  Why are there ferret permits?

Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela furo (sometimes called Mustela putorius 
furo), are not wild animals.

They were probably first domesticated by the Egyptians about three
thousand years ago.  If yours got free it would not survive; it would
almost certainly die of dehydration or starvation within a few days.
Unlike cats and dogs, ferrets aren't even large enough to push over
garbage cans and scavenge.

Domestic ferrets are generally believed to be descended from the
European polecat; they were originally used as hunting animals to
catch rabbits and rodents.  They weren't supposed to kill the prey,
they just chased them out of their holes and the farmers (hunters)
killed them.  This practice is now illegal in the U.S. and Canada, but
it's still fairly popular in the U.K..

A "ferret-free zone," or FFZ, is a place where ferrets are banned or
illegal [4.3].  In some other places, ferret owners are required to 
have licenses or permits.  States, counties, and municipalities outlaw 
or restrict ferrets for a variety of reasons, pretty much all invalid,
but I'd say that the underlying ones are that (1) many people don't
understand what a pet ferret is, and (2) the power plays which seem to
be inevitable in the world of politics sometimes end up being more
important than truth or fairness.  (Cynical but unfortunately true.)

What are some of those invalid reasons, you ask?  Well, a common one
is that ferrets are seen as wild animals like raccoons or skunks,
rather than a domestic species like housecats.  Of course, ferrets
have been domesticated for roughly 3000 years, longer than cats
have.  Another popular misconception is that ferrets pose a serious
rabies danger; in fact, studies have indicated that it's very hard for
a ferret to catch rabies, and when one does, it dies very quickly, so
the danger is very small indeed.  Besides, there's a ferret rabies
vaccine which has been shown to be effective.  A third common reason
for banning ferrets is the idea that escaped pets will form feral
packs and threaten livestock or native wildlife.  There are exactly
zero confirmed cases of feral ferrets (as opposed to polecats or
polecat-ferret crosses, for instance) in the U.S., and a few
deliberate attempts to introduce domestic ferrets to the wild have
failed miserably, so this, too, is an unfounded fear -- even if one
could picture a ferret harming a cow or breaking into a commercial
poultry farm.

The only states which now ban ferrets are California and Hawaii.  In
the face of overwhelming evidence, many areas are being persuaded to
change their outdated regulations.

Most of the misconceptions regarding domestic ferrets probably come
from mistaking them for their wild cousins.  It's very difficult to
tell a polecat or a mink from a domestic ferret when all you've seen
is a flash of fur disappearing into a burrow, and polecats and minks
are quite common in the less-developed areas of Europe and North
America.

Because of the similar names, domestic ferrets have also been confused
with their cousins the North American Black-Footed Ferrets, Mustela
nigripes.  Black-footed ferrets (BFFs) are wild remote relatives of
the domestic ferret.  They are an endangered species: the only BFFs
known to exist are in zoos or in a breeding program in Wyoming.
However, despite quite similar appearances, the BFF is very unlikely
to be an ancestor of the domestic ferret, since the latter were first
domesticated in Egypt and only brought to North America comparatively
recently.  

------------------------------

Subject: (3.3) What are the different ferret colors?

Ferrets often change colors with the seasons, lighter in the winter
than in the summer, and many of them lighten as they age, too.
Different ferret organizations recognize different colors and
patterns, but unless you're planning to enter your ferret in a show,
the exact label isn't particularly important.  Some of the more
commonly accepted colors are described in general terms below, adapted
from summaries written by William and Diane Killian of Zen and the Art
of Ferrets and Pam Grant of STAR*Ferrets.

    The albino is the old true ferret color.  White with red eyes and
    pink nose.  A dark-eyed white can have very light eyes and can
    possibly be confused with an albino.  These can actually range
    from white to cream colored with the whiter the color the better.
    A dark-eyed white (often called a black-eyed white) is a ferret
    with white guard hairs but eyes darker than the red of an albino.

    The sable has rich dark brown guard hairs with golden highlights,
    with a white to golden undercoat.  A black sable has blue-black 
    guard hairs with no golden or brownish cast, with a white to cream 
    undercoat.

    The chocolate is described as warm dark to milk chocolate brown
    with a white to golden or amber undercoat and highlights.

    A cinnamon is a rich light reddish brown with a golden to white
    undercoat.  This can also be used to describe a ferret with light,
    tan guard hairs with pinkish or reddish highlights.  Straight tan
    is a champagne.

    A silver starts out grey, or white with a few black hairs.
    The ferret may or may not have a mask.  There is a tendency for
    the guard hair to lighten to white evenly over the body.  As a
    ferret ages each progressive coat change has a higher percentage
    of white rather than dark guard hairs.  Eventually the ferret
    could be all white.

    White patches on the throat might be called throat stars, throat
    stripes, or bibs; white toes, mitts (sometimes called silver 
    mitts), or stockings go progressively further up the legs.  A 
    blaze or badger has a white stripe on the top of the head, and a 
    panda has a fully white head.  A siamese has a darker 
    color on the legs and tail, and a V-shaped mask.

------------------------------

Subject: (3.4) What do you call a ferret male/female/baby/group?

 An unneutered male is called a hob, and an unspayed female is a jill.
Officially, neutered males are gibs and neutered females are sprites,
but those words aren't as commonly used.  A baby ferret of either
gender is a kit.

The most commonly accepted phrase for a group is "a business of
ferrets".  Some people spell it "busyness" instead.  Another
possibility, "fastening" or "fesnyng," is thought to be due to a
misreading of "bysnys" long ago.

------------------------------

Subject: (3.5) I'm allergic to cats.  Will I be allergic to ferrets?

There's really no way to tell.  You could be highly allergic to some
other animal and have no problems at all with ferrets.  If you think
you might be allergic, visit a pet store, breeder or friend who has
one and check.  I've lost the note, but one person wrote me to say she
(he?) was allergic only to intact males, so you may want to try
contact with females or neutered males as well.  Also note that some
people are allergic to the perfumes pet stores often put on animals,
but not to the animals themselves.

------------------------------

Subject: (3.6) Is a ferret a good pet for a child?

Many people have both children and ferrets without problems, but
there's a difference between having both children and pets, and
getting a pet for your child.  It's important to remember that a
ferret is a lot like a cat or dog, and will require the same kind of
attention and care.  It's not at all like keeping a pet hamster or
guinea pig.  If your child is responsible, careful, and not too young,
and you're willing to supervise and help out with the care, a ferret
will be a great pet.  Otherwise, consider getting a rodent you can
keep in a cage instead.

It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young
children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the
proper way to handle pets.  A living creature needs, and deserves, to
be treated with more care than a toy.  Ferrets in particular love to
pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and
children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous
response from an active ferret than from a typical cat.

There are several stories floating around about ferrets attacking
babies, some more true than others.  Ferrets are unfamiliar to most
people, so it's easier for them to make sweeping statements on the
basis of a tiny amount of information.  Some of the reports are simply
rumor, or the result of confusing another animal with a ferret.
Others are based in fact, but omit important information (for
instance, that the child and pets had clearly been neglected or abused
prior to the attack).  Still others are unfortunately true.

However, plenty of children have been attacked and even killed by dogs
and cats.  The number of people injured by ferrets each year is a tiny
fraction of the number wounded or killed by dogs.  People don't claim
that all dogs and cats are too dangerous for pets, but rather that
more responsible parenting and pet ownership is needed.

According to Chris Lewis, former moderator of the Ferret Mailing
List [1.3]:

    The FML has carried confirmed reports of two, possibly three,
    cases where an animal identified as a "ferret" has seriously
    injured, and in one case, I believe, killed, infants.  One in the
    UK, and one or two in the US.  In none of these cases has it been
    proven that the animal was a ferret - particularly in the UK, it
    is quite possible that the animal was actually an European polecat
    which are raised for fur and sometimes for hunting (in the UK).
    And in each case gross child and animal abuse is well documented.
    But it's important to remember, that even the most pessimistic
    statistics on ferrets show that a ferret is about a thousand times
    *less* likely to cause injury than a dog.  Indeed, every year
    there are hundreds of very serious or fatal dog attacks in the US
    alone.  Worst case statistics show approximately 12 ferret attacks
    ever recorded in the US.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: 

    I can say from personal experience that there are many, many more
    bite incidents with the household dog or cat, and that either of
    these species tend to do a lot more damage.  I have seen children
    require over a hundred facial stitches from getting between the
    dog and its food, but never anything like this with a ferret.  But
    I've also been nailed by my share of ferrets too.

    Personally, I don't recommend ferrets for people with children
    under 6 or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting
    hurt.


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

4. *** Getting a pet ferret ***

------------------------------

Subject: (4.1) Which color is the best?  Male or female?  What age?

As with people, a ferret's inherent personality is more important than
color or gender.  Nevertheless, there is some thought that cinnamon
ferrets tend to be more docile than other colors, probably because
it's a recent addition to the list of colors, so most of them have
been bred from long-time pet stock.  Basically, though, choose the
color according to your own preference.

There's no consistent personality difference between a (neutered) male
and a female.  Males are generally considerably larger, around 18" and
3-5 pounds (that's 45 cm and 1.3 to 2.3 kg, in the US; European-bred
ferrets differ a bit) compared to 15" and 1-3 pounds (40 cm and 0.5 to
1.3 kg) for females.  Males' heads are usually wider, which can give
them a more cat-like appearance.  If you're getting an unneutered
ferret, bear in mind that the cost to spay a female can be higher than
the cost to neuter a male.  (Unless you're specifically planning to 
breed them, you will NEED to "alter" your pets [8.1].)

There are two contradictory opinions regarding what age ferret is best
for a new owner.  Adults tend to be a bit calmer and may already be
litter- and nip-trained [6.5, 6.6], but they are larger and may have
acquired bad habits, too.  Kits are very cute, and their small size
and (for a young kit) sleepiness can be less intimidating for a new
owner, but they require a little more care and training and will
become very active before too long. 

------------------------------

Subject: (4.2) How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?

Ferrets don't need other ferrets to be happy, but if you won't be
around much, two or more will keep each other company.  They'll also
be more fun, but more responsibility.  Many people have three, five or
more ferrets, which may be more fun than you can take. :-)

I'd recommend getting one at first, so you can get to know it, and it
you.  There's some advantage to only having to train one at a time,
too.  I'd suggest at least a few months between them, if you're going
to get several, although it's certainly not necessary.  If you decide
you want more later, you can always get another; they usually get along
just fine [4.6].  There's no problem mixing (neutered) ferrets of 
either gender in any combination.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.3) Are ferrets legal where I live?  Do I need a license?

Depending on where you live, ferrets may be completely unregulated,
require a license to breed but not to own, require a permit to own, or
be entirely illegal.  This varies by state or province, county, and
city.

You can find out about your town by calling the local Wildlife
Department or Fish and Game Department, the humane society, or
veterinarians (recommended in that order).  Note that some pet stores
in FFZs sell ferrets anyway, so the presence of one in your corner
store may not be any indication of their legality, and I wouldn't
necessarily trust the pet store to be honest about local laws.

Katie Fritz has compiled an extensive, though not complete, list of
FFZs.  If you have or want more information, contact her at
redshoes@ix.netcom.com or on CompuServe at 71257,3153.

Ferrets are still illegal in Massachusetts, but the legalization bill
was signed on December 7, 1995.  It takes effect 90 days from then,
March 6, after which ferrets will be legal there.  Hurrah!

Here's a list of some of the larger places where ferrets are illegal.

    California, Hawaii

    Washington, DC; Dallas, Ft. Worth, San Antonio, Beaumont, and
    various other cities in TX; Bloomington and Burnsville, MN; Tulsa,
    OK; Salt Lake City, UT

    Many military bases ban ferrets.  It seems to be at the discretion
    of the base commander.

    Although ferrets aren't actually illegal in New York City or
    Minneapolis, MN, they are not welcomed and may be confiscated or
    ticketed.

    Permits or licenses are required in order to own ferrets in the
    following places: New York State ($10/year), New Jersey
    ($10/year), Rhode Island ($10/year), Illinois (free).  Permits are
    also required in St. Paul, MN, and may be difficult to obtain.

These lists are by no means complete, so check locally before you buy
a ferret.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.4) Where can I get a pet ferret?  What should I look for?

Many pet stores have ferrets, and there are often ads in the newspaper
placed by small breeders [1.2] with kits to sell or people who want to
sell older ferrets.  

You can also often find "rescue" ferrets at the local animal shelter,
and there are shelters specifically for ferrets scattered around the
country as well [1.2].  This may not be the best choice for a new
owner, though, since rescue ferrets may have health or behavioral
problems.  (Many of them are healthy and loving, but if you've never
dealt with any ferrets before you may not want to take the chance.)

In any case, look for bright, clear eyes, healthy skin and whiskers,
soft coat, and a curious, alert attitude.  You can't tell just how a
kit's colorings will turn out, but if you watch and handle a group for
a while you can tell a surprising amount about their personalities.
Young kits will generally be pretty sleepy and uncoordinated, but
they'll grow out of that soon enough.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.5) What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear?
               What's the deal with Marshall Farms?

If your ferret has two blue dots tattooed in his right ear, chances
are he's from Marshall Farms, a large breeder located in Western New
York.  Marshall Farms (MF) has been the subject of some controversy
because they sell ferrets to laboratories as well as for pets.  Some
people feel that MF's efforts to produce genetically stable ferrets
for lab use might have resulted in their pets being genetically less
healthy, but there's no real evidence to support this idea.

Several other breeders also mark dots in their kits' ears, so a
tattooed ferret may not be from MF.  Regardless, Marshall Farms
ferrets are no less deserving of good homes and love than their
unmarked kin, whatever your opinions about the establishment that bred
them.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

    There has been a lot of rumors going around recently concerning
    Marshall Farms ferrets.  I'm not sure where they got started, but
    let's try to put this subject to bed.

    Sure, Marshall Farms ferrets develop tumors.  So do ALL ferrets
    [10.1.4]. We don't know why ferrets develop most tumors - we know
    that they are most likely to develop them between the ages of 4
    and 6, but not why.  But it is certainly not Marshall Farms'
    responsibility when a ferret that they sold two years ago develops
    a tumor...  To my knowledge - there are no inherent "defects" with
    Marshall Farms ferrets.

    Don't get me wrong - I know that Marshall Farms is the biggest
    breeder of laboratory as well as pet ferrets.  I don't condone
    laboratory research on ferrets, or other animals for that matter
    and I don't do any.  But I have never seen any problems with
    Marshall Farms ferrets that I could relate to Marshall Farms.

    I have a Marshall Farms ferret.  He is over 7 years old and
    perfectly healthy.  I would have no worries about getting another
    Marshall farms ferret from a health standpoint should the
    opportunity present itself again.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.6) How do I introduce a new ferret to my established one(s)?

[This section was written by Kelleen Andrews, with contributions from
others.  Thanks, Kelleen!]

Dominance fighting is normal in ferret introductions. The severity can
range from nearly nonexistent to all-out war.  Prepare for the worst,
and then anything less than that will seem like a piece of cake!
Patience is the most important virtue.  Often all is well in 3-14 days
but sometimes peace is not achieved for 3, 5, or even 7 months.
Ferrets that have been away from other ferrets for two years or more
tend to take longer to adapt.  Keep in mind that your final goal is
well worth the work and that having two or more ferrets that have each
other to love and play with is the greatest joy you -- and they -- may
ever know!

Many techniques can be used to ease the transition.  No one technique
works on all ferrets; a combination of them has the best chance of
success.  Reassure all ferrets often that everything is OK and they
are loved.

* Most important, make sure the newcomer is disease-free and current
  on vaccinations [8.2] before any interaction. You may choose to
  quarantine the newcomer for one or more weeks.

* If you can, and if you know that all the ferrets at the breeder or
  shelter are healthy and haven't been exposed to ECE, take your
  current ferret along with you when you pick out a new ferret so he
  can choose his own new friend.  Also, a pair often blends into the
  existing group where a single may have more problems.  A kit
  newcomer can be a plus but requires more precautions. Since a kit is
  tiny, if the established ferret is too rough you may need to cage
  it separately until it grows larger.  A kit that is constantly
  attacked and dragged around by an aggressive ferret may be seriously
  injured or become so traumatized as to want nothing to do with other
  ferrets.

* Make sure the first introduction takes place in a completely
  neutral area -- not just an unused room in your home, but
  preferably in someone else's home or someplace else neither ferret
  has ever been near. It also helps if other ferrets and distractions
  are there. One other ferret may be seen as an enemy whereas a group
  is seen as a party!

* If an immediate introduction feels uncomfortable to you, keep the
  newcomer in a separate cage near your current ferret's cage. Have
  supervised visits often, and let one ferret out at a time for
  playtime. The new guy can then get used to the new surroundings and
  the established ferret will not feel he's being punished.  Switch
  their bedding back and forth so they become accustomed to each
  other's scent.

* Give the ferrets baths immediately so they smell the same. Bathing
  them together may help since misery loves company. You might also
  put vanilla extract on their noses to confuse their smelling and
  bitter apple on their necks to discourage biting. Smearing
  Ferretone or Nutri-Cal on their faces will encourage licking rather
  than biting.

* Start out by holding the ferrets and letting them sniff each other.
  Gradually, as you feel comfortable with it, give them more freedom
  to interact with each other.  Expect fighting, but always supervise
  in case it becomes violent.  When you pull wrestling ferrets apart,
  if the loser goes back for more they are probably just playing
  rough.  A ferret that bites with a darting motion and shakes his
  opponent roughly or tears at his skin is being more aggressive than
  normal dominance struggles.  If you leave them alone, one ferret
  can end up with a neck covered in scabs, infected or worse.
  Usually when a ferret is being hurt he'll get very loud vocally,
  often screaming, but this is not always the case, so constant
  supervision is a must.  (Some ferrets scream when they're not being
  hurt, or even when they're the ones attacking, so don't assume the
  loud one is the one being picked on.)

  When undue aggression occurs, immediately scruff the attacker with
  your hand, or better yet with your mouth, and gently shake
  him. Scold him loudly, right up close.  Afterward put the attacker
  in his cage for a time-out.  Don't hit him, even tapping his nose,
  since that will only make him afraid of you, and he's already under
  stress.  If scruffing, scolding, and cage time don't work, he
  probably needs a little more time to adjust.  Also be sure to find
  the newcomer and reassure him he is safe and loved.

  If the ferrets groom each other, often around the ears or neck, it's 
  a sign of acceptance, but do not leave them unsupervised until 
  you're positive there is peaceful integration.


Unfortunately in very rare instances peace is never achieved and a new
home may need to be found for the newcomer.  Of course you'll want to
be sure the new home will be understanding and loving, but also make
sure the prospective new owner is aware of the problems the ferret has
had getting along with yours, since even if he wasn't the aggressive
one it will affect his relations with other ferrets.  You don't want
him to end up being passed from house to house, never able to fit in.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.7) Will my ferret get along with my other pets?

Most ferrets don't get along with birds, fish, rabbits, rodents,
lizards, and the like, though there are some exceptions.  For a dog or
cat, introduce them SLOWLY, preferably in neutral territory such as a
park.  Give the new animal a chance to get used to you and your home
before introducing it to the other pets one at a time.  For the first
week or so, hold both animals (two humans is handy here) and just let
them smell each other a few times a day.  Over the next week or two,
gradually give each animal a bit more freedom, watching them closely,
until they're used to each other.  Once you're convinced that they're
used to each other and get along all right, let them interact freely,
but supervise them for a while to be sure.

It's generally believed that ferrets get along with cats better if
they're introduced when the cat is still a kitten and is more willing
to play, but there are plenty of exceptions.  The same is probably
true of dogs.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

5. *** Things you'll need *** 

------------------------------

Subject: (5.1) What will I need to take care of my new ferret?

You will need:

   food for your ferret [6.2]
   a food dish (one hard to tip)
   a water dish (one hard to tip) or water bottle (see below)
   litter boxes (see below)
   litter [5.4]
   bedding [5.2] (not wood shavings [5.3])
   a cage [5.2]
   ferret shampoo (baby shampoo works fine too)
   a collar and a little bell [5.5]
   pet claw clippers (large human-nail clippers work fine too)
   toys (ferretproofed) [5.6]
   a veterinarian, preferably one familiar with ferrets
   Linatone or Ferretone, if you can find them (see below and [6.3])
   Bitter Apple or something similar (see below)
   a box or basket to be a bedroom [5.2]
   a harness and leash (optional) (see below)

Ferretone and Linatone are similar vitamin supplements [6.3] that 
nearly every ferret considers a wonderful treat [6.4].  Bitter Apple 
is a bad-tasting liquid or paste intended to stop pets from chewing
things.  The paste will probably be much more effective.  You may want
an H-type harness and a leash for walks.  Ferrets love to play in, and
empty, water bowls, so you might want to give them a rabbit-type water
bottle instead, or at least provide one in case their bowl gets tipped
over.

You will almost certainly need more than one litter pan, particularly
if you have a large home.  Small-size cat litter pans work fine, and
for a travel cage or shoulder bag you can use a Rubbermaid-type
plastic container intended for bread or ice cream (about 6 X 9 X 5
inches).  Make sure the sides of the pan are at least 4 inches high,
since ferrets habitually back into corners to deposit their wastes and
you don't want messes over the sides of the pan.  However, one side of
the pan should be no more than an inch or two high, so your ferret can
get in and out easily.  This is especially true for a young kit.  

If you're particularly sensitive to cleaning pans or to litter pan
odor, one novel suggestion was to use empty milk jugs, standing
upright, with the circular indentation on the side cut out.  Use only
a small amount of litter, and the whole jug can then be thrown away
when it gets dirty.

------------------------------

Subject: (5.2) Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?

Many people keep their ferrets in a cage or very well-ferretproofed 
[6.1] room whenever they can't be supervised.  This drastically 
reduces the risks of digestive-tract blockages from swallowing 
indigestible objects [9.1, 10.2], injury, and escape.  However, even if 
you plan to let your ferrets have the run of the house at all times, 
you'll want a cage at first for litter-training and other kinds of
training [6.5, 6.6] as well as for temporary use.  
Aquarium tanks have enjoyed a certain popularity as ferret cages, but
overall I think wire-mesh cages are better.  Tanks may be easier to
clean, but they don't provide much ventilation at the bottom, and your
ferret may feel somewhat isolated from whatever's going on in the
room.  Besides, a nice, big aquarium isn't exactly cheap.

If you plan to keep your ferret caged whenever you're not home, and
you'll be gone most of the day, a generous cage size is about 2 X 3
feet and 2 feet high (60 X 100 X 60 cm).  A second or third ferret
could share that size cage.  If you'll only be using the cage
temporarily, such as when you're vacuuming or taking your pet on a
vacation [6.9], 1 X 2 X 1 feet (30 X 60 X 30 cm) is sufficient for one
or two ferrets, perhaps three.  For trips around town [6.9], a
shoulder or duffel bag equipped with a litter pan and mesh window
works well.

In the cage, you'll want some sort of "bedroom" for your pet.  A
ferret won't be very happy sleeping on the open floor of a cage, even
on (or, more likely, under) a towel, but any small cardboard box or
basket works well as a bedroom.  Old towels make excellent bedding 
[5.3], as long as they aren't too easily chewed to bits.  Don't use
wood shavings [5.3].

Other than food, water, a litter pan, bedding, and a bedroom, what you
put in your ferret's cage is largely up to you.  Hammocks made from
old jeans or shirts and a set of metal eyelets are very popular for
both napping and playing, and ramps, ledges, tunnels, and toys [5.6]
will also be enjoyed.  Just be sure nothing you put in your ferret's
cage could hurt him, whether by catching a toe, being swallowed, or
some other way.  Also be sure your cage door fastens securely, perhaps
even with a small lock, because ferrets can be very determined and
rather intelligent escape artists.

------------------------------

Subject: (5.3) Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?

In short, no.  Many pet stores and some breeders use cedar or pine
shavings as bedding/cage lining for their ferrets, but it is not
recommended.  Cedar in particular has been associated with allergies
and respiratory problems in various animals, including, for example,
humans and rabbits, but pine and other woods also produce a fair
amount of dust and such which isn't very good to breathe.  Why take
the chance?

Furthermore, wood shavings are completely unnecessary.  Ferrets are
more like cats than hamsters: they'll be quite happy with a clean
towel or old T-shirt placed in a small "bedroom box" or basket for
sleeping.  Sure, some pet stores and breeders use shavings, but they
don't really have the option of using towels.

Of course, it would be better if pet stores didn't use wood shavings
either.  Corn cob bedding is just as convenient for them and is
dust-free and safe.  If you need some authoritative information to
convince your pet store to stop using wood shavings, here's an article
by Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM:

    (The following short article may be reprinted by anyone desiring
    to disseminate this information in a newsletter or non-commercial
    publication.  This material may not be altered or changed in any
    way.  Under Title 17 of the U.S. Code, Section 105, copyright
    protection is not available for any work of the United States
    Government.)

    WHY NOT CEDAR SHAVINGS?

    For years, cedar shavings have been used as bedding for many
    species of small mammals including ferrets.  Over the last ten
    years, increasing evidence is cropping up that this may not be a
    good choice.

    Cedar shavings, as well as other aromatic soft woods, such as
    white and yellow pines, release volatile hydrocarbons which affect
    those animals living in them.  Plicatic acid, a volatile
    hydrocarbon, results in asthma in humans and rabbits. Other
    hydrocarbons result in changes in the liver, which may impair its
    ability to detoxify certain drugs, including various anesthetic
    agents.  Cedar shavings have also been incriminated in increased
    mortality in rat pups, and various scientists over the years have
    alluded to possible carcinogenicity.  In chicken litter, cedar
    shavings harbored more bacteria than other types of litter.

    On the more practical side, a 1986 article in Lab Animal evaluated
    many of the common bedding materials, also including hardwood
    chips, sawdust, paper chips, newspaper, ground corncob, rabbit
    pellets, straw, and hay (along with several others) for the
    following: absorbency, dust, endogenous effects on the animal,
    cost, use in nesting, and disposability.  In all categories, cedar
    shavings was not recommended.  Interestingly enough, paper
    products and heat-treated softwood chips scored highest overall.

    In my experience, ferrets are happiest in old sweatshirt or
    towels, which rarely cause problems.  Beware, however, the bored
    caged ferret, who may ingest parts of these items for lack of
    other stimulation, and obtain a gastrointestinal foreign body in
    the process.

    References:
    1. Weichbrod RH et al.  Selecting bedding material.  Lab Anim.
       Sept 1986, pp.25-29.

    2. Kraft LM.  The manufacture, shipping, receiving, and quality 
       control of rodent bedding materials.  Lab Animal Sci.  1980 
       pp. 366-372.

    3. Weichbrod RH et. al.  Effects of Cage Beddings on Microsomal 
       Oxidative Enzymes in Rat Liver.  Lab Animal Sci.  38(3):  
       296-298, 1988.

    4. Hessler, JR.  Design and Management of Animal Facilities.  
       In Laboratory Animal Medicine, JG Fox, ed.  Academic Press Inc, 
       Orlando.  1984.

    5. Chan H. et al.  A rabbit model of hypersensitivity to plicatic 
       acid, the agent responsible for red cedar asthma.  J Allergy Clin 
       Immunol 79(5) : 762-767.

------------------------------

Subject: (5.4) What kind of litter should I use?

Some people have had problems with the clumping varieties of litter,
due to some ferrets' habits of sniffing at their litter corners or
dragging their rumps across the litter when done using it.  The litter
can get into their noses or rectums, where it clumps and causes
problems.  You may not want to take the chance.

Likewise, cedar shavings are not recommended, for the same reasons
that they don't make good bedding [5.3].

Other than that, any kind of litter meant for cats is okay for
ferrets.  You and your ferret may prefer one to another, since they
all control or cover odors differently, track more or less dust, cost
more or less, and so forth.  Some people even use alfalfa pellets
(rabbit food), which is often cheaper than cat litter but generally
doesn't cover odor as well.  If your pet is used to one and you
switch, it may take a while for him to connect the scent of the new
litter with where he's supposed to go.  (Also see the information on
litter training [6.6].)

------------------------------

Subject: (5.5) What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use?

Depending on your ferret, either a nylon kitten collar, a thin, flat
leather puppy collar, or a piece of ball chain will work well.  For
walks, you'll probably want an H-type harness, but that's a little
much to leave on all the time.  The problem you may run into with a
nylon collar is that some ferrets will scratch at it, which pulls the
nylon threads and can tighten the collar dangerously.  Also, be aware
that both nylon and leather can shrink if they get wet, so never leave
a wet collar on your pet; it may shrink and choke him as it dries.

For either of the collars, you may need to make an extra hole, then
trim off the extra length and (for nylon) melt the end together.  Be
sure to leave enough to go through the little ring after it's buckled.
For the ball chain (the kind made for light-pulls or to lift the
stopper in a toilet), just snip it to the proper length.

We've never had any problems with either of our ferrets getting hurt
by catching their collars in anything, but we make sure to leave them
loose enough that the furry snakes can slip out if they happen to get
caught.  In fact, the easiest way we've found to get the collars on is
to fasten them, then shove them over the ferrets' heads while
occupying them with Ferretone.

A small cat bell and small-size plastic tag have worked well for us on
a kit as young as 9 weeks.  The slot on some of the smallest bells
is easy to get a nail stuck in, though, so you may need to widen it a
little with a nail file.

I strongly suggest getting the S-shaped hook for the tag rather than
the split ring, since the rings have a tendency to loosen.  Twice one
of our ferrets got hers caught in a sweater or blanket -- which both
frightened her and unraveled the item she was frantically rolling in
before she pulled out of the collar.  You can also attach the collar
and tag using a neatly trimmed piece of stiff wire.  For a nylon or
leather collar, you'll probably want to poke the S-hook directly
through the collar and put the bell and tag on the same hook, though,
since attaching them to the ring on the collar makes them hang down
far enough to drag on the ground.

Neither of our slinkies seems to mind wearing a collar or bell,
although the first time we put them on our older pet she spent 15
minutes trying to convince us she was dying and then the next hour
playing with the jingly toy that followed her wherever she went.

In short, I strongly recommend tags and bells for all ferrets.  Ours
have never gotten out, but even just around the house it gives
enormous peace of mind to be able to tell where they are!

------------------------------

Subject: (5.6) Any suggestions on toys?

Cat toys work well for ferrets, though you need to be sure they don't
have any small, removable parts or foam stuffing which might cause 
digestive-tract blockages [10.2].  Most ferrets are rather harder on 
toys than a cat would be, so choose accordingly.  Plastic balls, with
or without bells, work well if they are not easily broken or swallowed
(the little "webbed" ones break too easily).  Soft vinyl rubber is
okay, but not the spongy kind -- it's too easily shredded and swallowed.  
For hard rubber toys, be sure they can't get stuck in your ferret's
mouth, and take them away when they start to crack.  Avoid superballs:
ferrets love to chew them to bits and eat the pieces.  Cat or dog
squeaky toys are good if they're tough enough to stand up to chewing
and easily squeaked.  Catnip won't hurt ferrets, but it doesn't affect
them like it does cats.

Most ferrets enjoy playing in a hammock made from a piece of cloth and
some metal eyelets, and the leg from an old pair of jeans will be fun
to crawl through or nap in.  For other toys, try umbrellas, bathrobe
belts, tennis balls, golf balls, ping-pong balls, large unshelled nuts
(rinsed to wash off any pesticides), or old socks with bells rolled up
in them.  Plastic shopping bags are popular, but watch to be sure your
pets don't suffocate or eat the plastic.  Carpet-roll tubes and
tunnels made of plastic pipe are popular too.

An excellent, inexpensive toy is a piece of plastic dryer hose about
4" (10 cm) in diameter.  Wrap any loose wire ends.  Be sure that your
real dryer hose is out of reach (or get a metal one), since you're
showing your pets that dryer hoses are great fun to crawl through.

No matter what you decide your ferret's toys are, he or she will
almost undoubtedly choose some household items you never expected, as
well.  Keep anything that would be damaged with a little chewing, or
that might hurt your pet, well out of reach.  Unfortunately, digging
up houseplants is also enormous fun to a ferret, but there are some
things you can do to protect your plants [6.1].

== End of Part 2 ==
-- 
- Pam Greene
Ferret Central <http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/>
            or send INDEX FERRET in email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
