Archive-name: travel/vietnam-guide/part4
Posting-Frequency: monthly

                                 VIETNAM

                         The Internet Travel Guide

                              Peter M. Geiser


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Contents
 
 Introduction
 Copyright (c) 1995, 1996

 1. General Overview
 1.1 Geographical Information
 1.2 Climate
 1.3 People
 1.4 Events
 1.5 Visa
 1.6 Embassies
 1.7 Border Crossing
 1.8 Money
 1.9 Economy
 1.10 Mail
 1.11 Telephone
 1.12 Acommodation, Hotels
 1.13 Food
 1.14 Health

 2. Transportation
 2.1 Flying
 2.2 Train
 2.3 Roads
 2.4 Bus
 2.5 Minibus
 2.6 Car
 2.7 Motorcycle
 2.8 Bicycles
 2.9 Cyclos
 2.10 Tours
 2.11 Guides
 2.12 Boats

 3. Places
     Hanoi
     Sapa
     Halong Bay
     Cat Ba Island
     Hoa Lu
     Ninh Binh
     Do Son
     Dong Ha
     Hue
     Danang
     Myson
     Hoi An
     Quang Ngai
     Nha Trang
     Phan Rang
     Dalat
     Central Highland
     An Khe
     Pleiku
     Kontum
     Ho Chi Minh City
     Saigon
     Cholon
     Around Ho Chi Minh City
     Tay Ninh
     Vung Tau
     Mekong Delta
     Mytho
     Vinh Long
     Cantho
     Long Xuyen
     Chau Doc
     Rach Gia
     Phu Quoc

 4. Literature and Additional Information
 4.1 Guidebooks
 4.2 Travellers Tales
 4.3 Language
 4.4 HistoricPolitical Books
 4.5 Novels
 4.6 Movies
 4.7 Internet

 A. Contributors

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The Internet Travel Guide
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm
Copyright (c) 1995, 1996 Peter M. Geiser
Peter.Geiser@student.unisg.ch

Last change 15. October 1996.
Updates: FAQ: monthly, HTML: more often

Currently available in the series of the Internet Travel Guides:
Cambodia
China
Laos
Myanmar (Burma)
Sumatra
Switzerland
Tibet
Vietnam

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INTRODUCTION

The main objective of this FAQ is to provide the reader with the newest
travel information available, like what is the current situation on visa,
where to stay and what prices are reasonable, etc. It is not a guide to
the Vietnamese culture or history (although I started to include some
information about those subjects as well), for these non-changing facts
are much more pleasantly presented in many good books (see the list in
section 4 in this FAQ). It is also not intended to be a political pamphlet
since politics is often a very opinionated subject. However, I started to
include some political facts where I felt it was appropriate.

Remember: Things change very fast, so by the time you get to Vietnam the
information in this FAQ may be outdated. If you encounter this, please
bear with me. Instead of being upset, rather share your experiences with
other people on the net. The next tourist will thank you if he or she can
rely on your new information. Also, if you find time during your travels
to write a postcard or a letter to me, I would greatly appreciate it.

Some paragraphs are led by the name of the author in brackets. This
doesn't mean that these are their only contributions, but rather that in
that case I chose to leave the words as the author wrote them, adding a
more personal note to the FAQ.


Answering questions

There are many people who send mail to ask me some questions. As much as
I like to answer as many questions as possible, my time is limited. I do
this work in my spare time, so I frequently answer the questions only
after a couple of days (or even weeks if I'm away for a while.) It also
happens that I cannot return an e-mail due to an invalid e-mail address.
Please be careful to include a valid e-mail address, or then ask me to
post the answer in rec.travel.asia.

This guide lives by being up-to-date. Since I cannot travel all the time,
I am glad to receive suggestions, contributions and comments. Any addition
is useful, regardless of the size.

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COPYRIGHT NOTICE

In accordance with the Bern convention, this document is copyrighted
worldwide. The information provided within this document is the property
of the original authors. The author especially reserves the right to the
exclusive use of the term "The Internet Travel Guide".

This document or parts thereof may NOT be sold for profit or included in
any commercial documents (e. g. books, esp. guide books, magazines,
CD-ROMs, WWW-pages, the Microsoft Network or any other form) without the
prior written permission of the copyright holder. This permission is valid
exactly for the agreed version (or if no version was stated at the
published version on the date of the agreement) at the time the permission
was granted; it does not cover future or any other versions. However,
following the common practice of the Internet, this document may be freely
redistributed without any modification whatsoever, including this
copyright notice.

If you as the reader has paid to get this document, please let me know. As
much as I would like I cannot give you back your money, but I can try to
put an end to the illegal stealing of other people's work.

**************************************************************************

The Internet Travel Guide
Copyright (c) 1995, 1996
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm

Peter M. Geiser
Seeblickstr. 10
9010 St.Gallen
Switzerland

Peter.Geiser@student.unisg.ch

**************************************************************************

3. PLACES (part 2)

QUANG NGAI

This must be the place with the most unfriendly people all over Vietnam.
I heard quite a few stories of travellers being hasselled by local
people. One English guy even got arrested by the police. He was followed
by a cyclo driver, refusing to ride with him. After entering a cafe, the
cyclo driver followed him and demanded that he pay him. Of course, he
refused. The cyclo driver called the police and the English got arrested.
They only let him go after he paid VND 10000 (half of what the cyclo
driver demanded, but still about double than what the ride would have
costed.) Another traveller was eating his noodle soup when suddenly a
Vietnamese started shouting at him in Vietnamese. Although he told the
man that he did not understand Vietnamese, the man shouted even loder,
and beginning to threat with his fists.  Finally the traveller did the
best thing in just leaving the place, before the other became violent.
These incidents are all the more strange in that I never heard of
something like this from somewhere else in Vietnam, where people are
mostly friendly and certainly never violent.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
NHA TRANG

This is the beach town. There are some people (e.g. Mama Hanh, or, nowadays
the better choice, South Sea Tours) offering a boat trip for USD 7. This
trip is very good value for money. Starting in the morning you are taken
to a place where you can swim and snorkel (use of equipment is free). Near
noon we drove to a second place and while we went for some more swimming
and snorkling (although since the equipment is poor and there is not
enough for all people you should bring your own), a excellent lunch was
prepared. There were crabs, shrimps, several kinds of fish, vegetables,
noodles, everything fresh and delicious. The lunch alone would have cost
much more than the price of the trip in a restaurant. In the afternoon we
stopped at a beach on an island where a buffet of fresh local fruit was
built up. Of course we had some more time for swimming. On the way back we
stopped at a small fishing village.

The cultural sights, the Cham towers and the pagoda with the giant sitting
buddha were nice, but there were so many beggars that one couldn't really
enjoy them. Also, it is advisable not to go at a time when there is a
cruise ship in the harbour. Currently, they are under reconstruction.
Entrance is VND 5000.

About 500 meters upriver from the Cham towers is a shipyard. The staff
there is friendly enough to let people wander around and see how ships are
constructed in a traditional way. Be friendly and do not take this
courtesy as granted, in most western country people would not be allowed
into a shipyard.

The fishing village south of Nha Trang is nice, but there are a lot of
souvenir shops. The oceanographic institute is worth a visit.


Accommodation

The Huong Nam Hotel at 13b1 Hoang Hoa Tham street has clean doubles with
aircondition and hot water for USD 12. It is a small family run business
that also offers the usual tours and mini-bus transportation to your next
destination.

The Dong Phuong Hotel, opened in March 1996, offers nice, clean doubles
for USD 15. 

The Hai Yen at 40 Tran Phu asks USD 15 for a double room. It is just
opposite the beach and offers a nice view.

The Vung Dao at 1 Tran Hung Dao is about two minutes from the beach and
has rooms for about USD 15. There is a swimming pool.

The Hung Dao, 3 Tran Hung Dao (next door to the Vung Dao) has hotel rooms
as well as bugalow style ones for about USD 10 to 12. There is a cheap
travellers cafe with a travel agent near the gate.

In the same price range are the Cao Da and the Thang Loi hotels.

Even cheaper is the Nha Khach 62 at 62 Tran Phu (also at the beach). It
charges only USD 7 for a double.

Hotel Thong Nhat at 18 Tran Phu (at the intersection with Yersin
Boulevard) has many rooms with private bathrooms and hot shower, the
cheapest around VND 80000.

The Lizzard Hotel has a nice bar called the Zippo Bar.


Food

Nha Trangs speciality is seafood. It is comparatively cheap and everywhere
fresh available.

Recommended is the Van Canh at 54 Phan Chu Trinh. This family restaurant
offers excellent food and good, friendly service.

(Lotta and Johan) Banana Split cafe is a good travellers cafe. Note that
the cafe next door, to the left, previously called 60's bar, thought the
secret of success was in the name, and changed 60's bar to... Banana
Split cafe! When we were there, all the people were in the real Banana
Split, and the owners of "fake banana" yelled at passing tourists to get
customers. (Banana Split is at 58 Quang Trung Street)

A cheap, friendly place it Quan An 98 at 98 Hoang Van Thu. They offer
mostly delicious noodle soup.

Another good place are the restaurants on the sea shore oposite Haiyan
hotel, but they are definitely much pricier.

An excellent restaurant is Hoan Hai at 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Tel 823133. The
prices are reasonable.

A nice place is the restaurant just next to the jetty in the fishing
village south of Nha Trang.

The vegetarian restuarant mentioned in the lonely planet guide near the
circle market cooks an excellent (and exotic) Banana Flower.

The only place with some kind of night life in Nha Trang is the Lizard.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PHAN RANG

Phan Rang offers not more than the Po Klaung Gerai Cham towers. They are
about 7 km outside the town towards Dalat. Admission is VND 5000. A ride
on a motorbike should be about VND 5000, after hard bargaining and one way
only. Usually, the tourist minibusses stop on their way between Dalat and
Nha Trang.


Accommodation

The Khach San Phan Rang at 354 Thong Nhat Street near the bus terminal
offers terrible rooms for USD 8.

There are several hotels with rooms for USD 30 or more.

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DALAT

Dalat is a hill station in the central highlands. The altitude of 1475 m
warrants rather cold nights. It was founded in 1897 by Alexander Yersin,
who first discovered the plague bacillus. Once called the 'Paris of the
East', it has now become a favourite honeymoon spot.

All the tourist attractions are 'Asian style', meaning that they
correspond more to the taste of local people.

The famed 'Valley of Love' looks nice, but with all the souvenir shops,
the 'Walt Disney' boats and the 'cowboys' it is hard to glimps the beauty
of the landscape. To me the landscape looked nice, but not as beautiful
than the north of Vietnam. Entrance to the 'Valley of Love' is VND 8000
with insurance; for a quiet stroll just pass the shops and walk 500
meters.

The summer palace of the last emperor, Bao Dai, is open to visitors. The
25-room villa was built in 1933. Admission is VND 10'000.

Entrance to the Cam Li falls is VND 3000 and probably not worth it.

Admission to the Crazy House is VND 3000.

The one thing I liked best (the only one, actually) was the old monk Vien
Thuc at the Lam Ty Ni Pagoda. He is always smiling, friendly and eager to
show and explain things. He has painted in his life already 84000 pictures
(this was in October 1994, now this figure probably has increased by a
couple of thousend). He sells them in various sizes, some of them postcard
size. Once you choose to buy one, he looks at it and then exclaims: "Oh,
this one is beautiful. I'm going to name it for you." He has to think only
seconds to come up with a name like: "Looking at this picture all sorrow
dissolves into emptiness." All his pictures (and the names) are Zen. He
also likes to show his guest books. Note: A recent report tells of
much higher prices, some USD 10 for even a small drawing, and that he is
no longer nice if the tourists are not willing to pay his prices.

(Michael) The development around Guang Trung resevoir is worth a look. It
is baren now, but when the trees grow a bit it should be quite lovely. A
new 'meditation center' with guest house overlooks the lake. The
government clearly intends this to be a vacation destination.

(Michael) Visiting the ethnic villages (Lat and Chill) around Dalat was a
bit depressing. The people have lost their semi-nomadic lifestyle and now
live in what seems to be enforced poverty. They will soon be integrated
into ordinary Vietnamese life. I did not attempt to visit any of the
ethnic villages further away from Dalat.

(John) A motorcycle taxi with driver can be hired for $5 to shuttle you to
all the sights around Dalat. Many of the sights are pretty lame by western
standards. I rented a motorcycle $6/day and drove myself without any
problems. The mountainous roads make for fun riding.

(John) I also saw about ten weddings in the less than 48 hours I was
there.

(Michael) Dalat is a great place to run; cool and dry with plenty of good
trails. I suggest a run out to Su Nu Pagoda at meal time (contrary to the
advice in LP) so you can listen to the nuns sing. A run around the lake
is also nice as is the run out to Thien Vuong Pagoda and beyond. Although
LP warns about getting too far out into the boonies, I had no trouble. I
did run into several men in uniform (they could have been off-duty doormen
for all I know) but I was universally greeted with smiles and thumbs up,
wherever I ran.

It is now possible to rent a mountain bike for VND 15000 (Feb 96.) A
motorcycle with driver are for rent at USD 6 per day. Make sure that it is
for the day, that you are the one deciding where to go, and pay the only
when you are back at the hotel.

The bus from the city to the airport takes about 30 minutes and costs
USD 3.

Motorbikes with 90 cc cost USD 5 for a full day.


Accommodation

There are many hotels and guesthouses in Dalat. A good place to look for
cheap, nice hotels are Nguyen Chi Thanh Street and Phan Ding Phung Street.
Prices are about USD 10-15 for a room.

A double room in Cao Nguyen Hotel at 90 Phan Ding Phung costs USD 7.

At the Haison Hotel there is ballroom dancing every evening.

The most expensive hotel with rooms about USD 200 is the newly refurbished
Sofitel Palace.


Food

Beware of Shanghai restaurant and its neighbor! The food is ok, but they
try to cheat the customers. The napkins served everybody without asking
cost and if they don't have the correct change they short change you
without so much blinking. I had to ask twice for my change, before they
finally said that they didn't have change (Lucky enough I still had some
small notes). Some prices they charged were not what was written on the
menu, so we had to re-check the bill again. My guess is that because Dalat
is such a touristy area they try to rip off people and Vietnamese (the
majority of the tourists) do not care or expect things like that.

The new Tranh Tranh just around the corner at 4 Tang Bat Ho (21836) is
reportedly much better. The food is nice and at a reasonable rate. It
fills up every evening with ex-pats and travellers. There is seating
upstairs.

A place I liked much more was Thanh Thuy restaurant just next to the lake.

(Anna, Feb 96) Upstairs in the new market building are many food stalls
selling good cheap food, including three vegetarian food stalls (com
chay).

A nice bar opened on October 2, 1994 is Saigon Nite at 45 Truong Cong.
It offers a big variety of drinks (with original alcoholic ingredients
imported from the west) which all cost around 25000 VND. There is a pool
table in the back room.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
CENTRAL HIGHLAND

The central highland covers the southern part of the Truong Som Mountain
Range. It's main features are the beautiful scenery and the many minority
groups (montagnards) living in this area. The region has a temperate
climate, where cold nights are not a rarity.

Highway 19 is an important route into the Central Highlands, running from
Qui Nhon on the coast up to Pleiku. Buses and vans run daily from Qui Nhon
to Pleiku, Kontum and Buon Ma Thout.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
AN KHE

An Khe is a small town about half way from Qui Nhon to Pleiku on Hwy 19.
There is not much to see here. There is a thriving brick manufacturing
industry in the area. In 1965, An Khe was chosen as the site of the base
camp for the US Army 1st Cavalry Division. The base was huge, and home to
the 1st Cav's fleet of 450 helicopters. Today, there is not much evidence
that the base ever existed. There are a couple of small, family-run hotels
in An Khe where you can get a room for less than $10.

An Khe Pass

One of the most spectacular mountain passes in Vietnam is on this stretch
of hwy 19. It is five km east of An Khe. There is an incredible view from
the top of the An Khe pass that is best seen at sunrise.

GM-100

On a lonely stretch of Hwy 19, between 15 and 22 km west of An Khe, a
French Army unit, Groupe Mobile 100 (GM-100) was wiped out in a Viet Minh
ambush in 1954. Historian Bernard Fall describes the fatal battle in his
book "Street Without Joy". There is a small stone memorial marking the
site on the south side of the highway.

Mang Yang Pass

The other pass on the Qui Nhon to Pleiku stretch of Hwy 19 is Mang Yang,
about 35 km west of An Khe. It does not present as spectacular a view as
An Khe pass.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PLEIKU

Accommodation

The large Pleiku Hotel has nice rooms for USD 11. The staff here are very
helpful, particularly the staff in the hotel restaurant. There was a
renovation project taking place here in early 1995 so prices may go up.


Tours

You can visit the former US special forces base at Plei Me but it is only
accessible by motor bike and it is a long haul (20 km road and 20 km on a
very dusty trail). Ask the staff at the Pleiku Hotel about arranging the
rental of motor bikes and hiring a guide.


Hill Tribes

There are hill tribe villages throughout the Central Highlands around
Pleiku. The only legal way to visit one of these villages is on an
arranged tour (ask at the Pleiku Hotel). You can walk into any of the
hill tribe villages you pass by on the highway, and the villagers will be
very receptive and friendly but be advised that this is illegal. All of
the villages around Pleiku have large signs posted saying "restricted
area, no tresspassing", in English in big bold letters. It is clear that
the Vietnamese government does not want foreigners in close unsupervised
contact with hill tribes. Perhaps the reason for their nervousness is the
fact that during the war, the hill tribes here received military training
and equipment from US Army Special Forces, which made life difficult for
invading North Vietnamese Army troops.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
KONTUM

Kontum, a small city north of Pleiku. Not much to see here, but the area
is pretty and the people friendly. Not many foreigners make it to Kontum.
There is hotel accomodation here.

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HO CHI MINH CITY

Ho Chi Minh City is one of the new Asian boomtowns and with 3.5 million
inhabitants Vietnams largest city. There is still a lot of the old Asia,
but it is changing rapidly, becoming modern quite quickly.

Ho Chi Minh City is often referred to as Saigon. However, this is only
part of the truth, as Ho Chi Minh City also includes other parts, like
Cholon.

The saddest part of the modernisation are the many beggars, some of them
dressing up their wounds, some pretending that they are one legged
(binding one leg up behind their bodies), while others were really
disabled. Since I have seen beggars only at tourist spots and many
beggars were strong and healthy young men I never gave them money.
Another point is that I never encountered beggars in other cities
(except the tourist spots in NhaTrang).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
SAIGON

Catholic Cathedral
The Cathedral of Notre Dame was built between 1877 and 1880 on what is
thought to be the site of an ancient pagoda. You can see communion
celebrated here three times on weekdays and Saturdays and six times on
Sundays.

Municipal Theatre
The municipal theatre is just opposite the Continental Hotel. The place in
front of it is the place to be on a Sunday or on a beautiful evening where
Saigon's youth meet and circle around on motorscooters to see and be seen.

City Hall
Stands at the northwest end of Nguyen Hue Boulevard overlooking a statue
of Ho Chi Minh.

Historical Museum
Once known as the National Museum, this ornate building was built in 1928.
It displays a wide range of artifacts from prehistoric times (300,000
years ago) and the Dongson period (3,500 BC - 100 AD) up to the formation
of the Vietnamese Communist Party in 1930. There numerous artifacts from
Chenla, Funan, Han Chinese, Khmer, and Oc-ceo periods, various Vietnamese
dynasties, and some hilltribe pieces. Notable are the Cham sculptures, of
which the best is the standing bronze Buddha from the 4th-6th century.

War Museum
Marked by a tank and warplane in the front compound the museum contains
the articles of war and various photographs without overt propaganda.

War Crimes Museum
This museum's message does not come from bombs, helicopters, and tanks in
the courtyard. Rather the most disturbing aspect is from the display
showing the after-effects of Agent Orange defoliation - bottled human
fetuses with shocking deformities. There is a great number of photographs
and a some additional exhibits illustrating Man's inhumanity - the Son My
(My Lai) massacre on 16 March 1968, and the effects of napalm and
phosphorous. However, don't expect to find any displays showing atrocities
committed by the Viet Cong or North Vietnamese. Admission is VND 7000.

Botanical Gardens
Since they were established in 1864, the gardens had grown to a collection
of nearly 2,000 species, of which its orchids were noteworthy. With the
war and its subsequent dislocations, the gardens declined and are still
trying to recover today.

Former US Embassy
The grounds are in a state of neglect with vegetation growing up around
the buildings. A plaque outside records the attack during the 1968 Tet
Offensive and the final victory in 1975. Check with the guard at the side
entrance, it may be possible to go in for a closer look.

Xa Loi Pagoda
This pagoda is more interesting for its history, despite the fact that it
houses a relic of the Buddha. Built in 1956, the pagoda became a center of
dissent against the Diem regime. In August 1963, armed men ransacked the
pagoda and arrested 400 monks and nuns, including the country's 80-year-
old Buddhist patriarch under orders from President Diem's brother.

Presidential Palace (Reunification Hall)
The residence of the French governor was built on this site in 1868 and
was later renamed the Presidential Palace. In February 1962, in an
assassination attempt against President Diem, a pair of planes that took
off to attack Viet Cong positions suddenly turned back to bomb the
Presidential Palace. The president escaped, but the palace had to be
rebuilt. The building remains as it was on April 30, 1975 when an NVA tank
crashed though the front gates.

Saigon Central Mosque
Since Islamic law forbids the use of human or animal figures for
decoration, the mosque's simplicity stands in stark contrast to the fussy
Chinese temple decorations and elaborate ritual objects of Buddhist
pagodas. Built by South Indian Muslims in 1935, only half-a-dozen Indian
Muslims remain in Saigon. There are 12 other mosques serving Saigon's
5000 Muslims.

Mariaman Hindu Temple
This is the only active Hindu temple remaining in Saigon to serve the 50
or 60 Tamil Hindus. However, it is a curious sight to watch the numerous
Chinese Vietnamese Hoa Hao worshippers prostrating themselves with incense
sticks in front of a Hindu deity. The temple has two colorful towers
decorated with a tangle of lions, goddesses, and guardians. Inside there
is a statue of Mariamman flanked by Maduriveeran and Pechiamman.

Revolutionary Museum
This is the same as the museum in Hanoi, displaying photographs, some
military hardware in the back compound, and memorabilia of the Revolution.
Admission is VND 20000 and the once eager guides have become bored civil
servants.

Ton Duc Thang Museum
Opened in 1989, this museum contains photographs and memorabilia dedicated
to the life of Ton Duc Thang, a comrade of Ho Chi Minh. Bac Ton was
president of Vietnam and died in 1980.

Art Museum
Work from the classical period through to socialist realist is displayed
in this cream mansion at 97A Pho Duc Chinh Street.

Phung Son Tu Pagoda
This small temple was built just after WW II by Fukien Chinese. It is
dedicated to Ong Bon, the Guardian of Happiness and Virtue. The most
notable feature of the temple is the front doors decorated with fearsome
armed warriors. Incense coils patiently burn in the open well of the
pagoda, spreading their sweet scent.

Nha Rong (Dragon House)
The building has been converted into a museum honoring the life of Ho Chi
Minh through pictures.


Shopping

Cho Ben Thanh Market
This is a large covered central market which, together with Binh Tay
Market in Cholon, is the largest in Saigon. Cho Ben Thanh, at the
intersection of Le Loi, Ham Nghi, and Tran Hung Dao boulevards, is
interesting to walk through, but there is little of its clothes, food,
household utensils, cheap jewelry, and toys worth buying.

Many airline offices are near the Rex Hotel, some in the same block, some
on the other side of Nguyen Hue Boulevard, others just round the corner
(turn right just before the city hall).

Just opposite the Vietcom bank (the main branch next to Saion river ???)
there is an animal market. It is in a small hall, looking more like a
storage shed for some tools. There are dogs, cats, birds, snakes, mice,
monkeys, and some other sepcies on sale. I didn't inquire for prices ;->

South of the Rex Hotel is an electronic market. You can get really cheap
CDs (for as little as VND 20000), but of course they are Taiwanese copies.
The cover is printed badly, but the sound quality is mostly ok. It is
possible (and advisable) to listen to them before you buy them.

On the first floor of the department store at Nguyen Trung Truc Street is
a well stocked supermarket.


Accommodation

In the region of Pham Ngu Lao and Le Lai street (around Kim Cafe and Sinh
Cafe) are many small hotels with cheap rooms. Very much recommended is
also Bui Vien Street just nearby.

(Anna, Feb 96) Many families rent out one or two rooms in their house.
This is illegal, so they don't advertise, but if you are a traveller
carrying a rucksack, then they will find you. Staying with a family is
often very pleasant. Price for bed and breakfast: about USD3 per person.

Recommended is Miss Loi Guest House at 178/20 Co Giang Street. Room rates
are VND 80'000 to 120'000. Tel 8352973.

The Nha Khach 4 at 4 Pham Ngu Lao Street has pleasant doubles with fan and
ensuite bathroom with hot water. It is USD 8 (Anna bargained it down to
USD 5 in Feb 96).

Mimi's Guesthouse at 40/5 Bui Vien Street has rooms with fan, private
bathroom and hot shower for USD 8. The owner is very helpful.

Tran Thi Canh: Just opposite Kim Cafe there is a small mini hotel with
clean rooms from USD 3 to USD 15. The one for three dollars is on top of
the roof. Ask for a room on the backside (We had number 7, with private
toilette and shower (cold water only) a refrigerator and even a small
balcony and a desk.)

Lars found a nice, and cheap, little place called Houng Residotel, 46 Le
Thi Rieng street. Maybe 10 rooms. He shared a large double for USD 6, max.
USD 15 for a room. Run by a family, nice people. It's 5-10 min walk from
central market, Cho Ben Than. A little hard to find since it doesn't look
like a hotel. If the door is closed, ring the bell.

There is also Guest House, 127 Cong Quynh with doubles from USD 8 to 10.

The Vien Dong at 275 Pham Ngu Lao charges USD 12 for a double room. There
are reportedly USD 3 rooms as well.

There is a very nice and clean hotel at 422 Hai Ba Trung, the Duc Huy.
They have rooms with hot water, TV and refrigerator for USD 15.

The Fuji Mini Hotel in the 5th district has 12 rooms, all with air
conditioning, cable TV (CNN, MTV, BBC) and a small desk. It is USD 30 for
a single and USD 40 for double rooms.

The Bi Saigon is quite new (June 1995) and very clean and nice. A small
flat with two rooms, airconditioning, bathroom and a balcony with
fabulous view over Siagon costs USD 34. It's located in a small side
alley from Pham Ngu Lao Street.

Cafe Mogambo, 20 Duong Thi Sach is USD 35 for a large room.

The Sun Hotel on Nguyen Huu Cau, just off Hai Ba Trung, near the Catholic
Cathedral, has clean rooms and excellent service starting at USD 37.

The Continental Hotel is the most traditional hotel in Saigon. It was the
place to be during the American war. A room is about USD 160.

The Rex has a wonderful terrasse on its roof overlooking the intersection
of Le Loi St. and Ngueyen Hue Boulevard. The rooms start at USD 126.

One of the best hotels is the five star Saigon Floating Hotel in the
Saigon river, where it is towed up since it has been towed from the Great
Barrier Reef in Australia in 1989. It is under Swiss management. The
address is 1A Me Linh Square, Tel 8290783, Fax 8290784. Rooms start at
USD 117 including breakfast.

Other hotels that have international standard and prices:
- Asian, USD 71.00
- Century Saigon Hotel, 68A Nguyen Hue Boulevard, Tel 8231818, Fax 8292732,
   USD 98.50.
- Chains First Hotel, 18 Hoang Viet-Tan Binh Dist, Tel 8441175, Fax 8444282.
- Champagne, USD 46.80 with breakfast, nice rooftop cafe, 129-133 Ham Nghi
     St., Tel 8224922
- Dong Khanh, USD 49.00 with breakfast
- Equatorial, USD 120.50
- International, USD 71.00 with breakfast
- Majestic, USD 159.00 with breakfast
- Mercury, USD 98.50 with breakfast
- Metropole, USD 87.50 with breakfast
- Mondial, USD 71.00
- New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Lelai Street, Tel 8295310, Fax 8230710, USD 175.
- New World, USD 175.50
- Omni Hotel, USD 153.50
- Saigon Prince, USD 137.00
- Saigon Star Hotel, 204 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Tel 8230260, Fax 8230255,
   USD 71 including breakfast.
- Son Chancery Saigon, 196 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Tel 8299152,
   Fax 825464, USD 86 - USD 144.
- Van Lang, USD 43.50 with breakfast


Food

Kim Cafe and Sinh Cafe (6 Pham Ngu Lao St) are known all over Saigon. The
area around those two travelling cafes that also offer tours (see tours
section) is full of cheap places to eat. I prefered Kim Cafe over Sinh
Cafe, because the service was much better (in fact, excellent), and the
beggars and post card selling kids were not allowed to come into Kim Cafe.

There is an excellent pizza restaurant at Pham Ngu Lao St, towards
Cholon from Kim Cafe.

Que Huong/Vietnam Motherland on the same street has very good food and big
portions.

The Zen Vegetarian retaurant, down an alley opposite Kim Cafe offers
vegetarian food.

There is a nice (and cheap) cafe at 123 Nguyen Hue Boulevard called Lan
Phuong. The owner is very nice and didn't try to overchage me (something
special in this 'region of the rich tourists' in Saigon.)

Two excellent and lovely restaurants that are next door to each other on
Dong Khoi are Lemon Grass and Tan Nam. Both are beautifully decorated and
the food and its presentation were superb.

The small pho restaurant just opposite the War Crimes Museum is a good
choice as well. Make sure you go there before going to the museum.

One of the most famous, and most expensive, retaurants is Maxim's. It's
full of Japanese and certainly overrated.

A special treat is the Indochine Restaurant (Dong Duong) at 144 Tran Hung
Dao Street (Tel 8395476). It's not exactly cheap, but has very good food.
They have the strangest of dishes, such as goat penis, pig brain, snake
head and uterus.

Another special treat is an evening at the rooftop bar or on the terasse
of the Rex hotel. The main attraction is the superb view over one of the
busiest intersections of Saigon. In the evening, especially before
holidays, Saigon's youth gather there to 'see and been seen'. Although
prices were about three times of Kim Cafe, the service was lousy. But of
course location and view cost as well... Another idea to spend a quiet day
is to use the swimming pool in the Rex.

The famous Apocalypse Now has moved to Dong Khoi Street. This bar is very
popular with Western travellers. Although open earlier, it doesn't start
to get crowded until 10pm.

A bar that has often live music it the Buffalo Blues at 72A Nguyen Du,
District 1, Tel 822 2874.

There is a new cafe called Condom. Financed by the Medecins du Monde, it
hands out condoms. It also answers questions to AIDS.

Of course, new American cuisine is moving in as well. There is a Baskin
and Robins ice-cream parlour on Tran Hung Dao Boulevard.


Note: Beware of the aggressive street vendors on Dong Khoi St. between the
Continental and the Majestic Hotels. They are gangs of professional
pickpockets (meaning they get your money before you notice it!) Crime is
in the rise in the streets of Saigon. There are not only the usual stories
of stolen cameras, shoes, walkmen, bags, and what else, but I also got
word of a group of twenty elderly French tourists being robbed by a gang
of about 25 boys just after they left the hotel for a daytrip.
The police is obviously used to these kind of things. They are very
helpful, if not friendly, and know the procedures of filing a report (e.g.
for the insurance.) If you look around in some markets you will most
likely be able to buy back your stolen goods.

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CHOLON

Cholon (Chinatown) bustles with activity that is of interest in itself,
but the finest pagodas in Saigon are also found here.

Cha Tam Church
Built around the turn of the century, this is where President Ngo Dinh
Diem was captured and assassinated with his brother in November 1963.

Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda
Visitors are greeted by a magnificent carved wooden boat hanging over the
entrance and immediately to the left is an oversized representation of
Quan Cong's horse and groom. At the main altar is Quan Cong flanked by
General Chau Xuong and the mandarin Quan Binh in glass cases.

Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda
This pagoda, built in the 19th century by Fukien immigrants, is dedicated
to Chua Thai Sanh, the Goddess of Fertility. The pagoda attracts visits
from childless women.

Quan Am Pagoda
This is thought to be the oldest pagoda in the city. The complex contains
a series of courtyards and altars dedicated to a range of deities and
spirits. The roof of the main structure supports four sets of ornate
figures and is fronted with old gold and lacquer panels of guardian
spirits. The main altar displays a seated statue of A-Pho, the Holy
Mother, in front of which is a white ceramic statue of Quan Am, the
Goddess of Purity and Motherhood.

Thien Hau Pagoda
This early 19th century pagoda is dedicated to the worship of both Buddha
and Thien Hau Thanh Mau - Goddess of the Sea and protector of sailors. The
most interesting part of the pagoda is the roof, richly decorated with the
high-relief frieze depicting episodes from the Legends of the Three
Kingdoms. It is one of the most ornate in Vietnam and can best be seen
from the open courtyard.

Phung Son Pagoda
Also known as Go Pagoda, it was built on the site of an earlier Cambodian
structure at the beginning of the 19th century. There is a large seated
gilded Buddha in the inner sanctuary surrounded by a variety of other
figures from several Asian and Southeast Asian countries.


Shopping in Cholon

Binh Tay Market
Binh Tay, with a wonderful array of noises, smells and colors, is one of
the most colorful and exciting markets in Saigon.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Around HO CHI MINH CITY

Phuoc Hai Tu Pagoda
Built by local Cantonese in 1909, this is one of the most colorful pagodas
in Saigon. Dedicated to the Emperor of Jade, the supreme Taoist god, this
temple also contains a wide range of other deities including the Buddhist
archangel Michael, a Sakyamuni Buddha, statues of two generals who tamed
the Green and the White Dragon, and Quan Am. There is also a Hall of Ten
Hells with reliefs depicting the one thousand tortures of hell. Women sell
birds at the pagoda that are set free to gain merit and there is a pond
containing large turtles.  

Tran Hung Dao Pagoda
This temple was built in 1932 for the worship of the victorious 13th
century general Hung Dao. It contains a series of bas-reliefs depicting
the general's successes, carved dragons, and weapons.

Vinh Nghiem Pagoda
A Japanese-style pagoda completed in 1967, it is one of the largest in
Vietnam. The structure is a classical seven-story pagoda with a spacious
sanctuary.(only open on holidays). Inside is a large Japanese-style Buddha
in an attitude of meditation, flanked by two goddesses.

Le Van Duyet Temple
Le Van Duyet is the South Vietnamese hero who put down the Tay Son
Rebellion and reunited Vietnam. The main sanctuary displays a strange
collection of the Marshal's personal possessions: a stuffed tiger, a
miniature mountain, whale baleen, carved elephants, crystal goblets,
spears, and other weapons of war. The Marshal is buried here with his
wife.

Giac Vien Tu Pagoda
The Pagoda of Buddha's Complete Enlightenment was built in 1771 and
dedicated to the worship of the Emperor Gia Long. Although restored, Giac
Vien Tu remains one of the best preserved temples in Vietnam. It is
lavishly decorated, with over 100 carvings of various divinities and
spirits, dominated by a large gilded image of Sakyamuni.

Giac Lam Pagoda
Built in 1744, the Forest of Enlightenment Pagoda is the oldest in Saigon.
It has a sacred Bodhi tree in the courtyard, the gift of a monk from Sri
Lanka, and curious for the blue and white porcelain plates used to
decorate the roof and some of the small towers in the garden facing the
pagoda. Inside there are rows of funerary tablets with pictures of the
dead and a main altar with layers of Buddhas dominated by the Buddha of
the Past. Particularly interesting is a 49-Buddha oil lamp. The monks are
very friendly and are a good source for the history of the pagoda. Some
speak good English and French.

Tunnels of Cu Chi
About 22 miles (36 km) northwest of Saigon is a short section of the 124
miles (200 km) of tunnels that has been widened to allow tourists to share
the underground experience. The Viet Minh began work on the tunnels in
1948 and used them for storage and shelter with sleeping quarters,
hospitals and schools. Cu Chi was zealously Communist and the tunnels were
used by the Viet Cong to launch the Tet Offensive in 1968. Admission US$3.

Nui Ba Den
Black Lady Mountain rises dramatically from the plain 66 miles (106 km)
from Saigon. Reaching a height of almost 3,280 feet (1,000 m), there is a
good vantage of the surrounding plain from the top. A number of shrines to
the Black Woman are located on the mountain and pilgrims still visit the
site. Fierce battles were fought here between the French and Americans,
and the Viet Minh.

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The homepage of the Internet Travel Guides is at
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm

Please send your comments, suggestions and contributions to the address
below. For questions, please see my note in the introduction.

e-mail:peter.geiser@student.unisg.ch

Peter M. Geiser
Seeblickstr. 10
9010 St. Gallen
Switzerland

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