Archive-name: travel/china-guide/part2
Posting-Frequency: monthly

                                  CHINA

                         The Internet Travel Guide

                              Peter M. Geiser


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Contents
 
 Introduction
 Copyright (c) 1995, 1996

 1. General Overview
 1.1 Geographical Information
 1.2 Climate
 1.3 People
 1.4 History
 1.5 Visa
 1.6 Embassies
 1.7 Border Crossing
 1.8 Money
 1.9 Mail
 1.10 Telephone
 1.11 Accommodation
 1.12 Food
 1.13 Health
 1.14 Student Card

 2. Transportation
 2.1 Flying
 2.2 Train
 2.3 Boat
 2.4 Bus
 2.5 Bicycle

 3. Places
     Beijing
     Chang Cheng (Great Wall)
     Chang Jiang (Yangtse)
     Chengdu
     Chongqing
     Dali
     Emei Shan
     Guangzhou (Canton)
     Guilin
     Hangzhou
     Hekou
     Jiuzhaigou
     Kashgar
     Khotan
     Kunming
     Lijiang
     Luoyang
     Nanjing
     Shanghai
     Shaolin Monastery
     Shenzhen
     Suzhou
     Urumqi
     Wuhan
     Xian
     Yangshuo

 4. Literature
 4.1 Guidebooks
 4.2 Travellers Tales
 4.3 Language
 4.4 Historical/Political
 4.5 (Auto) Biography
 4.6 Chinese Classics
 4.7 Novels
 4.8 Movies
 4.9 Internet

 A. Contributors

**************************************************************************

The Internet Travel Guide
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm
Copyright (c) 1995, 1996 Peter M. Geiser
Peter.Geiser@student.unisg.ch

Last change 2. October 1996.
Updates: FAQ: monthly, HTML: more often

Currently available in the series of the Internet Travel Guides:
Cambodia
China
Laos
Myanmar (Burma)
Sumatra
Switzerland
Tibet
Vietnam

**************************************************************************

INTRODUCTION

The main objective of this FAQ is to provide the reader with the newest
travel information available, like what is the current situation on visa,
where to stay and what prices are reasonable, etc. It is not a guide to
the Chinese culture or history (although I started to include some
information about those subjects as well), for these non-changing facts
are much more pleasantly presented in many good books (see the list in
section 4 in this FAQ). It is also not intended to be a political pamphlet
since politics is often a very opinionated subject. However, I started to
include some political facts where I felt it was appropriate.

Remember: Things change very fast, so by the time you get to China the
information in this FAQ may be outdated. If you encounter this, please
bear with me. Instead of being upset, rather share your experiences with
other people on the net. The next tourist will thank you if he or she can
rely on your new information. Also, if you find time during your travels
to write a postcard or a letter to me, I would greatly appreciate it.

Some paragraphs are led by the name of the author in brackets. This
doesn't mean that these are their only contributions, but rather that in
that case I chose to leave the words as the author wrote them, adding a
more personal note to the FAQ.


Answering questions

There are many people who send mail to ask me some questions. As much as
I like to answer as many questions as possible, my time is limited. I do
this work in my spare time, so I frequently answer the questions only
after a couple of days (or even weeks if I'm away for a while.) It also
happens that I cannot return an e-mail due to an invalid e-mail address.
Please be careful to include a valid e-mail address, or then ask me to
post the answer in rec.travel.asia.

This guide lives by being up-to-date. Since I cannot travel all the time,
I am glad to receive suggestions, contributions and comments. Any addition
is useful, regardless of the size.

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COPYRIGHT NOTICE

In accordance with the Bern convention, this document is copyrighted
worldwide. The information provided within this document is the property
of the original authors. The author especially reserves the right to the
exclusive use of the term "The Internet Travel Guide".

This document or parts thereof may NOT be sold for profit or included in
any commercial documents (e. g. books, esp. guide books, magazines,
CD-ROMs, WWW-pages, the Microsoft Network or any other form) without the
prior written permission of the copyright holder. This permission is valid
exactly for the agreed version (or if no version was stated at the
published version on the date of the agreement) at the time the permission
was granted; it does not cover future or any other versions. However,
following the common practice of the Internet, this document may be freely
redistributed without any modification whatsoever, including this
copyright notice.

If you as the reader has paid to get this document, please let me know. As
much as I would like I cannot give you back your money, but I can try to
put an end to the illegal stealing of other people's work.

**************************************************************************

The Internet Travel Guide
Copyright (c) 1995, 1996
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm

Peter M. Geiser
Seeblickstr. 10
9010 St.Gallen
Switzerland

Peter.Geiser@student.unisg.ch

**************************************************************************

3. PLACES

BEIJING

Beijing, a city of more than 10 million people, has been the capital of
China for more than 800 years. The first records of the city date back
over 3000 years.

It offers such a wide array of attractions that one can easily spend a
whole week without getting bored. Some of the main attractions are:

Tiananmen Square
'The Square of the Gate of Heavenly Peace' is reportedly the largest
square of the world, with 1 km2. It is framed by the 'Great Hall of the
People' on its west side and the 'Museum of Chinese History' and 'Museum
of the Chinese Revolution' on the east. On the south part is 'Chairman
Mao's Mausoleum'.
At the north side is the entrance to the

Imperial Palace
The palace of the former emperors of the Ming and the Qing dynasty is also
called the 'Forbidden City'. This name is derived from the fact that
nobody was allowed inside the city, except the emperor himself, his wifes
and concubines and the eunuchs. The entrance is on the north side of the
Tienanmen Square. The entrance fee is CNY 60.
There are tapes with an audio tour, available in about 30 languages. It is
excellent and uses people native to the respective language. It costs you
another CNY 20. This tape guides you through a very narrow strip of the
Imperial Palace, and if you are not careful you find yourself suddenly at
the back and outside the Place, and there is no way back in except buy
another ticket. If you would like to explore the more hidden places, make
sure you quit the tour before the end.

Jinshan Park
Just behind the Imperial Palace is the Jinshan Park. On top of the hill is
a pagoda where you get a good view over the Imperial Palace and the city.

Bei Hai Park
Located just west of the Forbidden City, this park is set on the shores of
a nice lake. Its bright white pagoda on top of a hill is visible quite far
and dominates the park.

Temple of Heaven (Tian Tan)
The best time to see this park is when it opens at 6:30. It is a good
place to see Chinese people doing their numerous morning activities like
Taiqi, martial arts, ballroom dancing, playing musical instruments,
Mahjiang and Chinese Chess.
The entrance is CNY 30.

Lama Temple (Yong He Gong)
Located in the north of the city is the Lama Temple.

Summer Palace (Yu He Yuan)
The summer palace has been built be the mother of the last emperor, Xi Qi.
It is a pleasant garden with numerous imperial buildings on the shore of
a lake. The whole garden has been built out of taxes raised for building
a marine for China. o that nobody could accuse her of not building any
ships, the Emperor Dowager built one marble ship at a jetty.
It takes about an hour from the center to the Summer Palace. The entrance
is CNY 35.

A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about USD 10 to 15.

Accommodation

The former main tourist hangout, the Qiao Yuan Hotel in the south of the
city, just opposite the Taoranting Park is currently undergoing major
renovations, and is now closed. So are the tourist services nearby.

Another cheap, but good place is the Long Tan Hotel, just opposite the
Long Tan Park.

The well-known international hotel chains have a branch in Beijing as
well, providing the usual high service at the usual high prices:

Airport Movenpick, Xiao Tianzhu Village, USD 105
Chains City, 4 Gongti Donglu Chaoyang District
Gloria Plaza, 2 Jiangguomendajie
Grand Hotel Beijing, 35 Dong Changan Dajie
Hilton, 1 Dong Fang Road North
Holiday Inn Downtown, 98 Beilishilu, Xichengqu
Holiday Inn Lido, Jichang Road, Jiang Tai Road
Jing Guang New World, Hua Jis Lou, Chaoyang District
Kempinski, 50 Langmaqiao, Chaoyang District
Novotel, 88 Dengshikou, Dongcheng District, USD 65 - 110
Radisson SAS, 6A Dong Beisanhuan Road, USD 145 -170
Shangri La, 29 Zizhuyuan
Shangri La's China World, 1 Jiangguomenwaidajie, USD 207 - 252
Swissotel, Dongsishitiaolijiaoqiao, USD 150 - 207
The Great Wall Sheraton, North Donghuan Road, USD 172 - 217
The Palace, 8 Goldfish Lane, USD 182 - 224
Traders, 1 Jiangguomenwaidajie, USD 137 - 160
Xiyuan, 1 Sanlihe Road, USD 90 - 150


Restaurants

There are many vendors selling excellent pancakes on their bicycle
kitchens.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C     -5   -2    5   12   20   25   26   25   20   13    4   -2
        F     23   28   41   54   68   77   79   77   68   55   39   28

 Rain  mm     76   76   76  102  152  203  305  254  178  152  102   76
       in      3    3    3    4    6    8   12   10    7    6    4    3

 days rain     3    3    3    3    5    6   12    9    5    2    2    2

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHANG CHENG (GREAT WALL)

The Chinese Wall or Great wall was built as a protection against the
Mongols from the north. It has been built in several stages and was at its
prime time more than 8000 km long. Today, most of it is in a state of bad
disrepair, and at some stretches even nearly invisible. However, the
Chinese government has recognised its value as a tourist attraction and a
place of historical significance, so it's starting to restore at least
part of it. There are several spots to visit it.

Ba Da Ling
The most famous and best known is Ba Da Ling. It is located 70 km north-
west from Beijing and easily reachable by tours. The wall is well
restored, but also extremely crowded.

Ming Ling
Less impressive than Ba Da Ling, but also less crowded.

Mu Tian Yu
Less crowded than Ba Da Ling, this place is very scenic.

There are several tours from Beijing to the Great Wall (mostly Badaling).
CITS charges USD 30 for transport, tickets to both the Great Wall and the
Ming Tombs, Lunch and Shopping (they will bring you to a tourist shop
where you are supposed to buy overpriced goods, so that the driver gets a
commission.) It should be possible to get cheaper tours. Check out the
ticket stands on Tienanmen Square or the small restaurants near the Qiao
Yuan Hotel in Beijing.
Another possibility is to go by subway to Xizhimen station and then by
train to Badaling. This should cost about USD 2. Going by train you'll
miss the Ming Tombs but you will have more time at the Great Wall. If you
bring a sleeping bag with you, you can even sleep on the wall (don't let
the officials know about your intention, however.)

It is possible to walk along parts of the wall. You have to get permission
if you want to go astray the usual tourist spots. Also, in theory you'd
have to get permission to camp outside (but you're probably better off not
mentioning your plans.)

One possibility to experience the Great Wall is to ride a mountain bike
over at least part of it. Getting permission requires a _lot_ of red tape
with the government. Since the wall is not too well preserved for most of
its lenght you will have to bring more than enough repair material with
you. Your tires are likely to get punctured more than 20 or 30 times a
day.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHANG JIANG (YANGTSE)

The Chang Jiang is Chinas longest river. Currently, there is a new dam
under construction 40 km upstream of Yichang, at Xiling Gorge. This dam
will, when completed, will put the Three Gorges between Yichang and
Chongqing under water. But at least in this century visitors will enjoy a
wonderful view of all the breathtakingly sheer cliffs. One wonders who
built the houses on long stilts trying to hold on to the shore as well as
possible.

There are four classes on the regular boats: second to fifth. In communist
China there is no first class, as this is consider bourgeois. Second class
is a double room and public showers and toilets that are lockable (in
contrast to the other showers and toilets that are in one big room with
everybody watching everybody else.) Third class is in an eight berth room,
while fourth class is in 14 berth rooms. Fifth class is no berth at all
and probably not quite official.
When I took the boat I was bold enough to use the second class shower and
toilet and most of the time stayed in the second class part anyway. Since
I was a foreigner nobody dared to say something (or they didn't know that
I stayed in third class.)

The more touristy boats are run by companies such as Regal China Cruises.
They take four days from Chongqing to Wuhan, and are thus not only much
slower than regular boats, but more expensive as well. For all that extra
money you get all-day Chinese music blaring from loudspeakers. The 130 m
long ships hold 258 passengers, air-conditioning, private bathrooms,
television, refrigerator and 24-hour service. There are shows every
evening and a lot of on board entertainment, so that the trip resembles
the average cruise through the Caribbean Sea.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHENGDU

The capital of Sichuan is a beautiful city with some wide streets and some
nice old houses and streets. There are many markets worth visiting.

In the western outskirts of the city is the Thatched Hut of Du Fu, a
famous Tang dynasty poet.


Accommodation

The place to be is the Traffic Hotel. It is pleasantly located just south
of Nanhe River.


Restaurants

Between the main road Renmin Nanlu and the Traffic Hotel there is a nice
footpath along the Nanhe River with many cheap restaurants. These
restaurants also offer excursions to various attractions all over Chengdu,
like visiting factories, a traditional Chinese hospital and Sichuan Opera
(where you can dress up like an actor and sometimes even take part) in the
opera.)


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C      7   10   15   20   23   26   29   30   25   19   14   11
        F     45   50   58   67   73   78   84   86   77   66   57   51

 Rain  mm     15   20   38   99  142  180  142  122  150  112   48   20
       in     .6   .8  1.5  3.9  5.6  7.1  5.6  4.8  5.9  4.4  1.9   .8

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHONGQING

Chongqing is one of the biggest cities in China and also one of the most
polluted cities in the world (it made the top ten!). It is situated on a
hill at the confluence of the Chang Jiang and the Jialing Jiang. To get
a beautiful view you can take the cable car across the Jialing river.


Accommodation

Located conveniently in the center of the town is the Huixian Hotel. It
has cheap, but nice dormitories.

More expensive is the Three Gorges Hotel (San Xia Bingua) with CNY 240
for a double.

Worth a visit even just to look at it is the Renmin Hotel, modelled
after the Temple of Heaven in Beijing.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C      7   10   15   20   23   26   29   30   25   19   14   11
        F     45   50   58   67   73   78   84   86   77   66   57   51

 Rain  mm     15   20   38   99  142  180  142  122  150  112   48   20
       in     .6   .8  1.5  3.9  5.6  7.1  5.6  4.8  5.9  4.4  1.9   .8

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
DALI

Wedged between the Erhai Lake and the Cang Shan Mountains at an altitude
of 1975 m above sea level, Dali is one of the main tourist hangouts in
China. Dali has a mild climate, with an annual mean temperature of 15 C
and only about 56 days of frost and an average annual rainfall or 1100 mm.

Already inhabited during neolithic times, Dali became an important market
place just off the Burma road during the time of the Han dynasty. As early
as 109 BC, the Han Emperor Wu Di set up administrative institutions. The
King of the Menshe tribe founded the state of Nanzhao (Southern Princedom)
in 739. Nearly two centuries later, in 937, Duan Siping, chief of the Bai,
overthrew Nanzhao and founded the Dali kingdom, which lasted until Kublai
Khan conquered it in 1253 and integrated it into Yunnan province.

In the region of Dali live mostly Bai. Especially the women dress in a
very colourful style. A good time to visit is when one of the many
festivals is due.


Festivals

The San Yue Jie (Third Moon Street Fair) is held between the 15th and 21st
day of the third lunar month (usually April.) Originally a Buddhist
festival, nowadays there are dances, races and singing, and a big market
with many goods to trade or buy.

During the Rao Shan Lin (Walkabout Festival), from the 23rd to the 25th
day of the fourth lunar month, people dance and sing from one temple to
another.

In the height of the summer, on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month, the
Huo Ba Jie (Torch Festival) is held. There are dragon-boat races, and in
the evening fireworks are displayed and people carry blazing torches
around the town and its surroundings.

Zong Sheng San Ta (Three Pagodas)
Built in the 9th century, these three pagodas are just outside Dali.

Guanyin Tang (Temple of the Goddess of Mercy)
Five km south of the city, the Guanyin Temple is built on top of a huge
boulder. Legend has it that the Lady Guanyin has placed it there to
protect Dali from an invading army.

There are excellent mountainbikes for rent at the Red Camelia Hotel for
CNY 10 per day.

On Mondays, tourbusses depart for the Shapin Market for CNY 13. The public
bus is CNY 6 one way.

The taxi to the airport is CNY 80 and the ride takes about 40 minutes.


Accommodation

The Red Camelia Hotel, also known as the No 2 Guesthouse has double rooms
for CNY 30 and CNY 90 with showers and CNY 180 for the luxury suites.
Dormitory beds are CNY 10.

The No 1 Guesthouse has rooms for CNY 110, CNY 200 and CNY 240.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C     10   11   14   18   19   20   20   20   18   16   13   10
        F     49   52   58   64   67   67   68   68   65   60   55   50

 Rain  mm      8   18   28   41  127  132  196  198   97   51   56   15
       in     .3   .7  1.1  1.6  5.0  5.6  7.7  7.8  3.8  2.0  2.2   .6

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
EMEI SHAN

South of Chengdu, this is one of the four sacred mountains of China. You
can be sure that there are scores of tourists, mostly Chinese. The typical
tour is to get up one day, spend the night at the monastery on top, view
the sun rise on top of the mountain and then get back down again.

There are several cheap hotels. You can also try your luck at one of the
monasteries, usually the cheapest places, but also the most crowded.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C      7   10   15   20   23   26   29   30   25   19   14   11
        F     45   50   58   67   73   78   84   86   77   66   57   51

 Rain  mm     15   20   38   99  142  180  142  122  150  112   48   20
       in     .6   .8  1.5  3.9  5.6  7.1  5.6  4.8  5.9  4.4  1.9   .8

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
GUANGZHOU (CANTON)

In former times the foreigners were confined to their trading outpost on
Shamian Island where they hung up plates stating that dogs and Chinese
were not allowed on it. Nowadays, everything is Chinese and foreigners
are welcome everywhere as long as they bring money.

Market
Cantons market is an experience in itself. There is a saying about the
Cantonese that they eat everything that flies, except a plane,
everything that swims, except a ship and everything with four legs,
except a car. So you'll be likely to find every imaginable kind of food
somewhere around.
If you consider buying a pet, the market is the place to get it. But do
make sure you get it alive. There is a story (nobody knows if it is really
true, but it's a nice story anyway.) of a British student who was thinking
of buying a puppy to keep her company. After finally agreeing on a price,
the Chinese selling it wanted to be nice and helpful and, to the horror of
the student, started to prepare it!

Yuexiu Park
Guangzhou's largest park covers 93 hectares. It includes the Sun Yatsen
Memorial Hall, the Zhenhai Tower and the Sculpture of the Five Rams.

Orchid Garden
This pleasant garden, constructed in 1957, shows over 100 variants of
orchids.


Accommodation

The main backpacker hangout is the Guangzhou Youth Hostel, located on
Shamian Island.

Just opposite is the famous White Swan, one of the best hotels in China,
and probably also in the world. Even if you don't stay there, make sure
you visit its stunning entrance hall.


Eating

A speciality of Guangzhou are its Dim Sum, little snacks eaten whenever
one feels like it. A good place to sample a wide variety is the Taotaoju
(Abode of Tao Tao) restaurant. On its three (or were it four?) floors
you select the Dim Sums directly from trolleys wheeled about as you are
going on with your meal.

On Shamian Island there are many small restaurants where you can eat
well and quite cheap.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C     13   14   18   22   26   27   28   28   27   24   20   15
        F     55   57   64   71   78   81   83   83   81   75   68   59

 Rain  mm    152  203  254  279  381  508  457  406  330  203  152  127
       in      6    8   10   11   15   20   18   16   13    8    6    5

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
GUILIN

Guilin is in the middle of one of the world's most stunning landscapes.
There are innumerable hills jutting out of the flat earth at random.

There are tours on the Li River to Yangshuo where you can admire the
beautiful landscape. Apart from being not too cheap, these tours are very
touristy and a general hassle. People on the boat are walking money bags
to the local population, so the motto is: beg or sell as good as possible
in the short time the money is close.

Elephant Rock
One of the mountains in the center of the town is aptly named 'Elephant
Rock'. It indeed resembles an elephant with its big trunk hanging over a
small part of the river.

Reed Flute Cave
One of Guilin's main tourist spots, the Reed Flute Cave appeals perfectly
to the Asian taste of Kitsch. It is lit by neon lights in all possible
colours. However, it is still worth a visit.


Accommodation

Consider spending the night in Yangshuo instead of Guilin. There are of
course many international hotels, but the prices are much too high.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C      9   10   13   19   24   24   28   28   27   22   16   11
        F     49   49   56   66   75   75   83   82   80   72   60   52

 Rain  mm     33   56   97  160  206  193  160  178   84   43   38   38
       in    1.3  2.2  3.8  6.3  8.1  7.6  6.3  7.0  3.3  1.7  1.5  1.5

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
HANGZHOU

Hangzhou is a pleasant town with many parks and the beautiful West Lake.
Within the lake there are some island connected by causeways.

In old China Hangzhou was famous for the beauty of its women.

Longjing
A short bus ride away from Hangzhou is the tea village Longjing (Dragon
Well). When I was there, a nice woman was showing me the tea plantation
and how she processed tea in her own house. Of course there was a higher
motive to this tour: she wanted to sell me some of her tea. Since the tea
was very good and fresh, and the price was ok, this was a good deal.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C      4    5    9   15   21   24   29   28   24   18   12    6
        F     38   40   49   59   69   75   84   83   75   64   54   43

 Rain  mm    254  254  330  330  305  356  279  279  305  254  203  178
       in     10   10   13   13   12   14   11   11   12   10    8    7

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
HEKOU

Hekou is situated at the border to Vietnam, in the south of Yunnan.


Accommodation

The hotel just opposite the bridge at the border costs CNY 240 for a
single and CNY 360 for a double room.

The Hekou hotel, reached by walking to the left from the bridge and taking
the first turn right, has rooms for CNY 50, 60, 100 and 150. The later
have aircon and hot water.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
JIUZHAIGOU

This beautiful nature resort in northern Sichuan closest resembles
Alpine regions with snow covered mountains, beautiful lakes and many
waterfalls. There are many Tibetan settlements. The altitude is about
3000 m warranting cold nights and temperatures could drop below zero
degrees. Bring along warm clothes!

To make the trip, count at least five days, better a week or more. If you
have more money than time, you might also consider flying with a
helicopter from Chengdu.

There is an entrance fee of several USD. Inside the park, cheap
accommodation is available. Make sure you bargain!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
KASHGAR

Long time ago the center of the silk road and an important trading point,
Kashgar nowadays is a moderate center with some 120000 inhabitants. It
makes an excellent starting point for trekking.

The bus to Khotan is CNY 54 and can be purchased half an hour before
departure of the bus. Take some water with you, this is desert land with
60 km and more without a drop of water!


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C     -4   -1    8   15   21   25   27   26   21   14    5   -3
        F     25   31   46   60   70   77   80   78   70   57   42   28

 Rain  mm     15    3   13    5    8    5   10    8    3    3    5    8
       in     .6   .1   .5   .2   .3   .2   .4   .3   .1   .1   .2   .3

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
KHOTAN

In Khotan there are still many Uigurs. It certainly is one of the more
off-the-beaten track towns.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
KUNMING

Situated at an altitude of 1890 meters near the pleasant Lake Dian, the
capital of Yunnan offers a mild climate all year round.

Stone Forest
Some way outside Kunming is the Stone Forest, a collection of stone
pillars remotely resembling trees. It is a bit touristy, but if you walk
past the masses of Chinese group tourists you will be able to enjoy a bit
of what it must have been a long time ago when nobody came here.
There are daily tours leaving Kunming sometime around 7 to 8 am. The bus
takes about 3 hours one way. The bus costs CNY 40, and the entrance to the
Stone Forest is another CNY 33.

Bamboo Temple
This Tang Dynasty temple is twelve km north-west of the city. The current
structure is not that old, however. After burning down in the 15th century
it had to be rebuilt. During a major renovation between 1833 and 1850 some
500 life-size figures. Entrance is CNY 10. There are direct busses to the
temple.


Accommodation

The Camelia Hotel has double rooms for CNY 140.

The Kunhu Hotel has cheap rooms.

The Jin Long Hotel (Golden Dragon) has an Anglo-American breakfast buffet
(for those of you that are starving of Western food.)


Eating

Excellent Sichuan pork is available in the Yunnan Typical Food restaurant.
Between it and the Camelia hotel are several nice cafes that sell beer.
The draft beer is more expensive than the bottle.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C     10   11   14   18   19   20   20   20   18   16   13   10
        F     49   52   58   64   67   67   68   68   65   60   55   50

 Rain  mm      8   18   28   41  127  132  196  198   97   51   56   15
       in     .3   .7  1.1  1.6  5.0  5.6  7.7  7.8  3.8  2.0  2.2   .6

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
LIJIANG

Located among spectacular scenery near the border to Tibet, this city is
the center of the Naxi minority. The Naxi are descendants of Tibetan
nomads and until recently lived in a matriarchal society.

It is possible to rent bikes for CNY 12 per day.


Accommodation

Since the earthquake at the beginning of 1996 rooms have become very
scarce, because all the hotels are under reconstruction.

The Funshan still has some rooms left for CNY 170. There is hot water, but
only in the evening from 7 pm to 11 pm.


Eating

Recommended are Mama Fu's and the Old Market Cafe (who does not accept
Diners Card even though there are stickers.)

Just opposite Mao's statue is a food stand selling excellent steamed
dumplings.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
LUOYANG

Founded in 1200 BC, Luoyang is one of the oldest Chinese cities. It was
home to 10 dynasties, until the Jin moved their capital to Kaifeng. After
being destroyed by Jurchen invaders from the north, it sunk into
insignificance. Nowadays, it is a rather glum industrial center.

Baima Si (White Horse Temple)
13 km north of the city is the Baima Si. It was founded after two monks
sent as early as 67 to India to fetch holy scriptures returned. It is the
first Buddhist temple in China, and the first translations of the Holy
scripts from Sanskrit into Chinese were don here


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C      0    2    8   15   21   26   28   25   21   15    8    2
        F     32   35   46   58   71   80   82   79   69   59   46   35

 Rain  mm     13   18   18   23   51  102  178   76   25   18   15   13
       in     .4   .7   .7   .9    2    4    7    3    1   .7   .6   .4

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
NANJING

Nanjing was the old capital in the south (hence its name which means
'South Capital'). It is one of the most beautiful cities in China, with
wide tree lined avenues.

It has an interesting historical museum and an old tomb from one of the
Ming emperors.

Sun Yatsen Memorial
A short way outside the city is the memorial to the father of the modern
China.

Chang Jiang (Yangtse) River Bridge
When the Chinese wanted to build a bridge in the fifties, they naturally
looked for help towards the Sowjet Union. But it was about the time that
relations became increasingly distorted, so that China instead turned to
the Americans. After some studies, they declared it impossible to build a
bridge over the Chang Jiang. So the Chinese, stubborn as they were,
started to build by themselves. Finally, after many years of
constructions, the bridge could be opened on 23 December 1968. It is a
double-decker, with a 4500 m long road on the upper floor and a 6700 m
long railway below. In one of the bridgeposts is a museum, depicting this
triumph of Chinese communism over American capitalism.


Accommodation

Both, Nanjing University and Nanjing Normal University have dormitories
available for budget travellers.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C      5    6   11   17   23   25   30   30   25   19   13    7
        F     41   43   52   63   73   78   85   85   78   67   56   45

 Rain  mm    152  152  203  279  304  381  254  203  178  178  152  127
       in      6    6    8   11   12   15   10    8    7    7    6    5

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
SHANGHAI

Shanghai is the new rising star in the East. It is a gigantic bustling
city with a lot of cunning entrepreneurs. Being the largest city in
China, it hosts over 12 million inhabitants. It's famous Nanjing Lu is
the best known shopping street in China.

The center is dominated by colonial buildings, culminating in 'The Bund'.
Nowadays, Shanghai starts to transform itself into a city of modern
high-rise glass and steel buildings of the same internationality found
all over the world.

The old part of the city was the Chinese part during the occupation and
during the daytime is transformed into a market selling everything that
a tourist might want to buy.

The Bund
The Bund is the beautiful waterfront dominated by the huge buildings of
the banks and former trading houses. Get a view of it in the evening
when it is beautifully lighted and the river front bustles with live.

Yu Yuan
The Yu Yuan is probably the most beautiful and certainly the most famous
of all the gardens in China. In front of it is the famous tea house.

Jade Buddha Temple
House of a 19 meter high white jade Buddha, this temple still is
actively used. Interestingly enough, except in the Jade Buddha's room,
photography is permitted.

A taxi from the airport to Nanjinglu or the Bund costs about USD 5 (if you
take a red mini-cab instead of a Volkswage Sedan.)


Accommodation

The cheapest hotel in town is the Pujiang Hotel, just across the Wusong
River (Suzhou Creek) from the Bund. It is a bit shabby, but they have
good dormitories with air conditioning, and also single and double rooms.

Another cheap hotel is the Music Conservatorium (Yinyue Xueyuan) in
Fenyang Lu.

More expensive is the Donghu Binguan at USD 60 for an air-conditioned
room.


Eating

When I was in Shanghai, eating became a bit of a problem. I had trouble
finding a restaurant that still had open after 8 pm. Of course, I could
always have gone to one of the big hotels, but I preferred the normally
priced Chinese restaurants.

A good place to look for restaurants is in the small streets just north of
Wusong River.

Two bars with lots of live music, food and drinks and both, tourists and
locals are the Long Bar and Malone's, both near the Shangri-La Hotel.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C      3    4    8   14   19   23   28   28   24   18   13    6
        F     38   40   47   57   66   73   82   83   75   65   55   43

 Rain  mm    254  254  330  330  305  356  279  279  305  254  203  178
       in     10   10   13   13   12   14   11   11   12   10    8    7

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
SHAOLIN MONASTERY

The Shaolin monastery is said to have been the home of monks that
developed the Shaolin Kung Fu. Nowadays it is one of the big tourist
attractions with Chinese spurred on by recent movies set in this
monastery.

Nowadays, there is a school for martial arts in the surrounding
buildings. When I was there, I was astonished at the huge number of
classes full of eager students learning martial arts. There must be
several hundreds, if not thousands, at any one time.

The easiest way to go to this monastery is to use one of the many tour
busses from Zhengzhou.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
SHENZHEN

Shenzhen is Chinas boomtown with a growth rate of over 40%. While it had
only 30'000 people a few years ago, it boasts of a population of over 2
million!

Since there are not many tourists, people are friendly and tend not to
cheat Westerners.


Accommodation

There is a Shangri La Hotel.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C     13   14   18   22   26   27   28   28   27   24   20   15
        F     55   57   64   71   78   81   83   83   81   75   68   59

 Rain  mm    152  203  254  279  381  508  457  406  330  203  152  127
       in      6    8   10   11   15   20   18   16   13    8    6    5

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUZHOU

Also called 'The Venice of China', this town of 2500 years indeed
resembles its counterpart in Italy. There are many canals laid out in
checkerboard style throughout the city. 

Suzhous main attraction are its many beautiful gardens. Some of the
biggest and  best known are: Zhouzheng Yuan (a humble administrator's
garden), Shizilin (Lion's Grove), Changlangting (Surging Wave
Pavilion), Yiyuan (Garden of Harmony), Hanshan Si (Cold Mountain

North Temple
Located in the north of the old part of Suzhou is the North Temple with
its nine story pagoda. There is also a museum of traditional handicraft.

Silk Factory
Suzhou is famous for its silk production. It is possible to visit a
factory and see how the silk is processed from the silk worm to the
final woven cloth. At the end of the tour you'll be able to buy the
final products in the factory shop. Make sure you check the prices, they
indeed have special prices as announced, but especially high for
foreigners.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C     -1    2    8   14   19   25   27   26   19   14    7    1
        F     30   35   47   56   67   77   80   78   66   56   44   33

 Rain  mm     76   76   76  102  152  203  305  254  178  152  102   76
       in      3    3    3    4    6    8   12   10    7    6    4    3

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
URUMQI

Urumqi is a boom town profiting from the railway. There are no big sights,
but the city itself has a unique atmosphere. Apart from the Han Chinese,
Urumqi is also home to the Uygurs.


Accommodation

There are dorm beds for CNY 30.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C    -15  -12    1   11   19   23   26   24   17    8   -3  -12
        F      5   10   33   51   66   74   78   75   63   47   27   10

 Rain  mm     15    8   13   38   28   38   18   25   15   43   41   10
       in     .6   .3   .5  1.5  1.1  1.5   .7  1.0   .6  1.7  1.6   .4

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
WUHAN

The capital of Hubei province, this city actually composes of three former
cities, Wuchang, Hankou and Hanyang, divided by the Chang Jiang and the
Han rivers and linked by the big Yangtse Bridge in 1957.

Sun Yatsen Park (Zhongshan Yuan)
Opened from 5:00 to 19:30, this park offers relaxation as well as
entertainment. There are several small lakes and a public swimming pool.
The small zoo is home to more than 60 rare species, including the giant
panda.

Guiyuan Buddhist Temple
Dating from late Ming, this temple has a large 105-ton Buddha sculptured
of white stone. The Buddha was a gift from Burma in 1935.

Gui Shan (Tortoise Hill)
This hill offers a good view over the Yangtse.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C      3    5   10   16   21   26   29   28   24   18   11    6
        F     37   41   50   61   70   80   84   83   75   64   53   42

 Rain  mm    152  152  203  279  305  381  254  203  178  178  152  127
       in      6    6    8   11   12   15   10    8    7    7    6    5

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
XIAN

The region of Xian has been inhabited as far back as 6000 years. At that
time the now rather barren plains were much greener and ideally suited for
farming. The first emperor of the unified China, Qin Shihuang founded the
capital of Xianyang, which is a bit west of Xian. Following the Qin was
the Han dynasty that moved the capital further easy, to the plain where
Xian now is. In 528 the Sui built the new capital of Changan that was to
become the greatest city in the world at that time, with about 2 million
people. It was enclosed by a wall stretching 8 km north-south, and nearly
10 km east-west.

Nowadays it is only a small part of its former self. As a reminder of the
old importance as a center of commerce with many trading partners as far
west as Persia and the Arabian world, there are still many Muslim.

Bell Tower
Originally from the 14th century, this huge tower was relocated in 1739.
It is possible to go to the top.

Drum Tower
Smaller than the Bell Tower, it is just near the Great Mosque and marks
the entrance to the Muslim quarter.

Great Mosque
One of the largest mosques in China, this building dates back to the 18th
century. The mosque is still regularly used, with several prayer services
each day.

City Walls
Built on the remains of the Tang's Forbidden City during the Ming dynasty,
the wall has a total length of 14 km. It is about 12 m high, and about the
same width at the top.

Big Goose Pagoda
A bit south of the city wall is the Big Goose Pagoda. It was built in 652
after the holy monk Xuan Zhang returned from his journey to India where he
fetched the holy scriptures. This journey has found its way into the great
Chine classic 'The Journey to the West'. Xuan Zhang translated the whole
scriptures into 1335 volumes of Chinese text. It is 64 m high and built
out of wood and brick. It is possible to climb to the top.

Little Goose Pagoda
With 43 m high smaller than it's big brother, the Little Goose Pagoda is
not far away. It was built in 707, also to hold holy scriptures brought
back by another monk. Although its top has been destroyed by an earthquake
in the 16th century, it is still possible to climb to the top.

Banpo Neolithic Viallage
Discovered in 1953, the remains of a village inhabited at the time of
about 4500 BC to 3750 BC by the earliest settlers in the area are
beautifully displayed with labels in both, Chinese and English.
A trip to this village is often combined with a visit to the Terracotta
Warriors.

Terracotta Warriors
In 1974, some peasants digging a well by chance uncovered one of the
greatest archaeological sites in the world. During his reign (from 247 BC
until July 210 BC), Qin Shihuang, the first emperor of China built himself
a mausoleum with more than 8000 terracotta warriors guarding his dead
body, not two of them looking the same.
There were two walls around the mausoleum, the inner was 1355 m long and
850 m wide, with a circumference of 3870 m. Originally a hill of 150 m,
the mausoleum itself is now (2200 years after it has been built) still 50
m high. It covered an area of no less than 350 x 345 m2. There are three
main pits with terracotta warriors inside.
Pit 1 is 230 m long and 62 m wide, and is the main battle formation. Pit 2
is in the shape of an L, 96 long east-west and 84 m long north-south,
making up another battle formation of mixed arms. Pit 3 is U-shaped. It is
generally believed that pit 3 is the commando post for the battle
formations of pit 1 and 2.
A fourth pit has been found during June and July 1978. It is shaped in the
fashion of the Chinese character zhong (middle). In December 1980 two
bronze chariots with four horses has been found. They are half life size,
with one chariot being 3.17 m long and 1.06 m high. It weighs 1241 kg and
is made of 3462 components, of which 1742 are of bronze, 988 of silver and
732 of gold, and is beautifully painted. The horses are 91 and 93 cm tall
and 110 to 115 cm long.
There are four main category of figures, chariot warriors, infantry men,
cavalrymen, and horses. There are generals, middle ranking officers, lower
ranking officers, ordinary soldiers and armoured warriors. The latter can
be further divided, according to their headgear into warriors with a
square scarf, a cylindrical bun, a flat bun and kneeling warriors
(crossbowmen). All in all, there are over 130 battle chariots, more than
500 chariot horses and some 116 cavalry horses. The horses are 2 m long
and 1.72 m high.
There are several good articles with beautiful photographs in magazines of
the National Geographic Society, the latest October 1996. See also the
section on Literature.
The entrance fee is exorbitantly high (for Chinese prices), but still
worth it. It is possible to buy small replica of the figures for a couple
of Yuan. Remember to barter.

Many hotels offer tours to the Terracotta Warriors and other sights around
Xian. However, prices differ considerably, as does quality. Ask if the
entrance tickets to the sights are included or not. Also, be careful if
the guide offers to buy tickets for you, since some try to charge you more
than what you would pay at the ticket booth. Of course, you may be lucky,
and the guide buying you Chinese tickets saves you some money.


Accommodation

The main traveller hangout is the Shengli Hotel (Victory Hotel) in the
south of the city. It is very cheap and dirty, and you may only shower
between 6 pm and 10 pm.

There are several cheap hotels just opposite the train station.


Restaurants

One of Xian's specialities are the excellent dumplings. There is a famous
restaurant at Jiefang Road. Or then, of course, you could try the food
stalls located at Dong Shi Er Dao Xiang (the 12th Lane East.)


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C     -1    2    8   14   19   25   27   26   19   14    7    1
        F     30   35   47   56   67   77   80   78   66   56   44   33

 Rain  mm     76   76   76  102  152  203  305  254  178  152  102   76
       in      3    3    3    4    6    8   12   10    7    6    4    3

 days rain     3    5    7    8    8    8   11   11   12    8    6    4

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
YANGSHUO

Yangshuo is located some 90 km south of Guilin. It is a small town located
in the midst of one of the world's most stunning landscapes. Whereas
Guilin is a big expensive city, Yangshuo is the backpacker hangout, with a
Western orientation and few rip-offs (people there know that most
travellers know the prices and wouldn't buy at their place anymore.)

Moon Hill
Some km south of the town is a strange mountain with a big hole right
through its middle. This shape gave it its name, Moon Hill. There is a
footpath to the top, and the view from the top is breathtaking.
When I was there, an old woman was selling drinks. Of course, I was
thirsty. As soon as I had taken the first couple of gulps, I noticed the
sweat pouring out of my pores. I was so occupied by the view that I
simply forgot that I was dehydrating.


Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C      9   10   13   19   24   24   28   28   27   22   16   11
        F     49   49   56   66   75   75   83   82   80   72   60   52

 Rain  mm     33   56   97  160  206  193  160  178   84   43   38   38
       in    1.3  2.2  3.8  6.3  8.1  7.6  6.3  7.0  3.3  1.7  1.5  1.5

**************************************************************************

The homepage of the Internet Travel Guides is at
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm

Please send your comments, suggestions and contributions to the address
below. For questions, please see my note in the introduction.

e-mail:peter.geiser@student.unisg.ch

Peter M. Geiser
Seeblickstr. 10
9010 St. Gallen
Switzerland

**************************************************************************
