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                          CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVERS
                                       
   
   
Authors

     * Originally written by William Millios, 18 May 92
       This version did not have the necessary permissions for the
       material used, and any versions of this faq existing prior to July
       1995 should be deleted.
     * Completely rewritten by Cindy Tittle Moore, rpd-info@netcom.com)
       July 1995.
       Revisions:
          + Further comments on color added Jan 1996.
            
   This version is Copyright 1995, 1996 by Cindy Tittle Moore. It may not
   reside at web pages anywhere other than at my site. Please feel free
   to include a link to it if you wish, however. You are free to download
   a hardcopy for your personal use; please contact me for permission for
   further redistribution.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Table of Contents

     * History
     * The Chesapeake Today
     * Characteristics and Temperament
          + Pet and Companion
          + Activities
          + Choosing a Puppy
     * Special Medical Problems
          + Joint Problems
          + Eye Problems
     * Resources
          + Books
          + Email List
          + Web Sites
          + Breed Rescue Organizations
          + Breeders
          + Clubs
            
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
History

   To understand the rise and development of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever
   it is essential to understand something about the region from which it
   comes. The Chesapeake Bay is on the East Coast of the United States,
   running north up toward Baltimore. This is a land of harsh winters,
   icy water, and huge numbers of migratory birds. James Michener
   describes the duck hunting in this region in his novel, Chesapeake.
   There were literally so many birds that they could be shot out of the
   sky en masse, resulting in 10 to 20 ducks for their dogs to then go
   out and retrieve at a time. The guns used were more properly
   boat-mounted cannons. These hunters needed dogs that were capable of
   going out and retrieving all of these ducks, in particular going after
   cripples first and then back to pick up the dead ones.
   
   There are many stories and legends about the origin of the Chesapeake
   Bay Retriever. The favored story involves the 1807 shipwreck of an
   English ship bound for Poole, England. The crew and two puppies
   survived the wreck: a brown male named Sailor and a black bitch dubbed
   Canton in honor of the rescuing ship. These two puppies were St.
   John's water dogs, no doubt bound for Lord Malmesbury's estates, which
   at this time was developing the prototype for the Labrador Retriever
   breed. These puppies found homes in the Chesapeake Bay area, on the
   opposite shores, and were trained and used for duck retrieving. The
   dogs that descended from these two ultimately became collectively
   known as Chesapeake Bay Retrievers.
   
   Whether or not Canton and Sailor contributed as much to the breed as
   they are credited with, or even whether they were bred to one another
   at all, it's clear that the Chesapeake, or Chessie as it is often
   called, developed in this area from avid hunters who cared about two
   things: a fanatical retriever, and a brown coat to blend in with its
   surroundings. Thus, many dogs would have been used for breeding stock
   as long as they were good hunters and retrievers and had brown coats.
   Other St. John's dogs from Newfoundland and retrieving dogs, including
   the Labrador upon its return to the Americas, were no doubt used in
   the quest for the ultimate duck retriever.
   
   While it's temptingly romantic to paint a picture of a breed coming
   about by natural selection in this rugged climate, in all likelihood,
   Chesapeakes were bred quite carefully by the families along the Bay
   for the qualities they desired. There is anecdotal evidence of
   breeding records and pedigrees tracing back to at least the beginning
   of the 19th century. In particular, the Carroll Island Gun Club was
   devoted to Chesapeakes in the latter half of the eighteenth century
   and reportedly kept breeding records going back for decades. The
   club's members bred Chesapeakes and hunted over them; sportsmen came
   from all over the country to witness their prowess. Unfortunately, in
   a contribution to the puzzle of this breed's origins, the club's
   records were lost in a fire near the turn of the century. Some of the
   other breeds believed to have played a part in the Chesapeake's
   development include coonhounds, Curly Coated Retrievers, Irish Water
   Spaniels, and setters.
   
   The Chesapeake Bay Retriever was the first individual retriever breed
   recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1878. The first recorded
   Champion in this breed is CH Barnum (born 1892); the first Field
   Champion is FC Skipper Bob (mid 30's), with the first dual Champion,
   Dual CH Sodaks Gypsy Prince (1937) following shortly after. The
   American Chesapeake Club became the official national breed club in
   1918. In contrast, the rest of the retrievers were lumped together
   until the late 1920's when the AKC finally separated them into the
   ones we know today.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
The Chesapeake Today

   The Chesapeake is fortunate at this point in that it has not split
   between show and field as has happened with the more popular retriever
   breeds. To some extent this is probably due to its being one of the
   rarer Retriever breeds, with Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers
   far surpassing the Chesapeake in litters registered annually with the
   AKC. In 1994, there were two Dual Champions. There have been a total
   of eleven Dual Champions in the breed, and three more that had a breed
   Championship and an Amateur Field Trial Championship.
   
   The American Chesapeake Club today maintains the breed Standard,
   organizes annual National Specialty Shows and Field Trials. The club
   has a code of ethics for its members, and supplies information upon
   request about the breed and those in the breed.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Characteristics and Temperament

  PET AND COMPANION
  
   The Chesapeake is a talented and driven dog. He can be stubborn and
   strong-willed and is not the best dog for most novice owners. He is
   excellent with children, though he will not tolerate abuse and will
   get up and leave in such a situation. In any case, any interaction
   between young children and dogs of any breed should be supervised by
   an adult.
   
   The Chesapeake is an intensely loyal dog with a strong protective
   streak. This is coupled with an excellent temperament; the consequence
   of which is that while the Chesapeake makes an excellent watch dog, he
   is a poor attack dog as he will not injure others. His loyalty also
   means that it is difficult for anyone else to train the dog except for
   his family. As a rule, Chesapeakes are friendly rather than
   affectionate with strangers. Poor results are obtained by "sending the
   dog away" for training and is not advised. This is a breed that makes
   a wonderful family pet and does badly when kenneled away from the
   family.
   
   Because he is a retrieving breed, he is likely to chew quite a lot
   throughout puppyhood and adolescence. Because he will grow to be
   relatively large and have a protective streak, it is imperative to
   socialize him as a puppy with plenty of strangers and have him be used
   to obedience work.
   
  ACTIVITIES
  
   Chesapeakes are first and foremost superb hunting dogs and well known
   for their love of water. They are credited with excellent noses and
   perserverance in finding fallen game, in particular going after
   crippled birds first then the dead ones. For example, there are
   authenticated stories of Chesapeakes retrieving as many as 100 ducks
   in a single day! With good training, your Chesapeake should easily be
   an excellent hunter. 
   
   Chesapeakes are shown in field trials and do very well, However, they
   are consistently outnumbered by Labradors at these shows (who
   outnumber all the other breeds eligible for these trials).
   Nevertheless, the breed continues to have Dual Champions, a tribute to
   the continued working ability of the breed as a whole.
   
   In contrast, Cheaspeakes are never very numerous at the show ring.
   They are easily shown however; requiring little grooming. It is
   sometimes difficult, however, to find a judge that truly understands
   the breed's type.
   
   Chesapeakes do well in obedience, especially under experienced
   trainers. Since they have a mind of their own, however, it may be a
   task to convince them to do things your way rather than theirs!
   
  CHOOSING A PUPPY
  
   Look for puppies with the following points:
     * Sound temperament -- no shyness, fear, or aggression.
     * Good health -- active and inquisitive, glossy coat, pink gums and
       tongue.
     * Ideally should be retrieving items with eagerness at an early age
     * Unperturbed by loud noises.
     * Eager to approach strangers.
     * Parents that are certified free of hip and elbow dysplasia and
       examined annually for hereditary eye diseases.
       
   Look carefully at the parents to give you an indication of what the
   puppies should grow up to be like. If you don't like the dam or the
   sire, you should probably pass on the puppies. There are more general
   tips given in the FAQ on "Getting A Dog" for finding reputable
   breeders and asking the right questions. This article is posted
   monthly to rec.pets.dogs.info. General help for dealing with puppies
   can be found in the "New Puppy" FAQ, also posted monthly to
   rec.pets.dogs.info.
   
   A Chesapeake puppy's coat color can become either darker or lighter
   with maturity. Puppy and adult colors can both range from a very light
   "deadgrass" color to a rich, dark chocolate shade. It is common to see
   a wide range of colors within the same litter.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Frequently Asked Questions

   Aren't Chesapeakes a kind of Labrador?
   
     NO, although the breeds are related. Unfortunately, since Labradors
     are much better known, the comparison is inevitable, and too often
     the Chesapeake is simply described in terms of how it differs from
     the Labrador, or worse, as "another kind of Labrador."
     
     Physical differences: In Chesapeakes, the ears are set higher, and
     the legs tend to be longer. The eyes are shaped differently and set
     a little more forward in the head. They are not as stocky as
     Labradors, especially show Labs, and they have a different topline
     since their rear may be high. The coat of a Labrador is not woolly,
     and if there is a wave to it, is not nearly the same as a
     Chesapeake's. Moreover, Chesapeakes only come in various shades of
     brown (from a wheaten "deadgrass" color, to reddish brown, to a deep
     rich chocolate), whereas Labradors can be yellow, black, or
     chocolate. The easiest way to distinguish a chocolate Labrador from
     a dark Chesapeake is by the lighter pigment of the Chesapeake's nose
     and eyes and the woolliness and curliness of its coat. Eye color
     doesn't always give you a clue as many chocolate Labradors have
     yellow eyes rather than the correct hazel or brown. Certainly poorly
     bred specimens of either breed may make it nearly impossible to
     decide which breed they are.
     
     Temperament differences: The Chesapeake is a loyal breed, bonding
     closely to its family and not taking direction from strangers very
     well although they may be unfailingly polite or friendly to
     strangers. The Labrador is often indiscriminately affectionate and
     many will work for nearly anyone. The Chesapeake has a protective
     streak which most Labradors lack or possess to a significantly
     lesser degree. Extensive kenneling and isolation seems to affect
     Chesapeakes more strongly than Labradors. Both breeds can be equally
     stubborn, however, and they do share many other common retriever
     traits: high intelligence, trainability, a high activity level, and
     a love of water.
     
   What are the different colors of the Chesapeake?
   
     Deadgrass -- is without any red tone in either the light, regular or
     dark variations. Deadgrass can vary from almost yellow to tan.
     Sedge -- almost a "strawberry blonde" coloration. Definite reddish
     undertones on a relatively light colored coat.
     Browns -- darker and may have red undertones (light brown, brown and
     dark brown).
     Liver -- ???. This color was a disqualification for a long time, but
     has been dropped in the latest version of the standard. It's not
     clear how this color differs from shades of Brown.
     
   So are Chespeakes always a solid color?
   
     White markings can show up but unless limited to spots on the chest,
     belly or feet, they are disqualifications. The Chesapeake can also
     have some hound markings and there is an occasional dog with black
     coloration or markings. These marks are also disqualifications.
     
     However, if you examine a solid colored Chesapeake, you will likely
     find a subtle range of colors on it, down to variations on a single
     hair shaft. This is perfectly normal.
     
   Which color came first? Which is better?
   
     While the exact color of a Chesapeake is inconsequential, the range
     of colors and their historical devevelopment is nevertheless of
     academic interest.
     
     In researching old AKC Stud Book pages, the predominant registered
     color of the Chessie in the late 1800's was sedge. However, there is
     some evidence that because sedge was a prized color at the time,
     dogs were being registered as sedge simply to help move puppies.
     Also, as many Chesapeakes change colors from puppyhood to adulthood,
     it is unclear how many puppies might have been sedge when young and
     a different color when adult. Nevertheless, this practice started
     such an uproar at the time that "sedge" was very nearly dropped as a
     color description. This is probably also when the worn out argument
     of which color is "better" originated.
     
     According the stud books, which, again, are open to interpretation,
     a trend toward the brown color started at the turn of the century.
     Brown in those days was called by several different names including
     sable, bay, mink, brown, dark brown, red brown, and light brown.
     There were also several dogs registered as liver in color. From 1889
     to 1904, one deadgrass and a handful of tans were registered (and
     one as "sedge grass"). This suggests that Chesapeakes have always
     come in a wide range of colors. Because of the dominant/recessive
     nature of the colors, there will be a greater number of browns than
     other colors. There is no evidence that deadgrass developed later or
     elsewhere.
     
     (Thanks to Thomas McClanahan for supplying the information about the
     stud book records and to Meghan Connor for discussing their
     interpretation, both on the Chessie-L list.)
     
   So how important is color?
   
     Not very. So long as the Chesapeake has no disqualifying marks, the
     color of its coat is unimportant. Of course, individuals have their
     private preferences, but this ideally does not carry over in to the
     show ring, and certainly does not affect the dog's hunting ability.
     You can find quality dogs in any of the permitted colors for the
     breed.
     
   Alright, if color is not important, then what is?
   
     The coat quality! It's important that the coat be harsh and crisp,
     with plenty of undercoat. A correct coat will be only mildly damp
     after the dog shakes when coming out of the water. If it retains
     water so that the dog is soaked, it is not correct. Nor should the
     coat curl (defined in the Standard as the hair curling around far
     enough to touch itself again).
     
     Color appears to play some part in the coat quality, as a variety of
     colors in the coat often signify variations in texture necessary for
     a quality coat. This is not to say, however, that a particular color
     is somehow better than the rest.
     
   Is the eye color supposed to match the coat?
   
     Not according to the Standard. Individual breeders may have personal
     preferences, of course, but a long as the Chesapeake's eyes are
     yellow to amber in color, it does not matter whether the coat is
     deadgrass or dark brown or any other color in between.
     
   Is the topline supposed to have the rear be higher?
   
     Again, according to the standard: "Topline should show the
     hindquarters to be as high as or a trifle higher than the
     shoulders." Many breeders prefer "a trifle higher," citing improved
     working ability as a result. The Chesapeake is probably the only AKC
     recognized breed that allows high rears.
     
   Are Chesapeakes stubborn and hard to train?
   
     They have often been accused of such, but this directly contradicts
     the personal experience of many Chesapeake owners. Most often you
     will hear this accusation from professional hunting or field trial
     trainers, most of whom are more accustomed to working with the
     Labrador. As previously noted the Chesapeake is more responsive to
     his family than to a stranger and this is doubtless a large factor
     responsible for the trainers' perceptions. If you will be sending
     out your Chesapeake for hunting training, be sure to look for a
     trainer that has trained Chesapeakes and is willing to work with
     their differences rather than train them in the same way all their
     other dogs are trained, or try to force them into the Labrador mold.
     
     
     The other thing to keep in mind is that Chesapeakes are intelligent
     and sometimes bored with pointless (to them) repetition. Thus their
     talent for doing some things their own way! Anyone training
     Chesapeakes must work with this tendency or ultimately be
     frustrated.
     
   How much do they shed? Do they require a lot of grooming?
   
     No! The coat is nearly maintenance free and can in fact be damaged
     by over grooming. Many people do not know what the proper coat
     texture is for a Cheasapeake; it should be springy and resilent to
     the touch, not soft or smooth. Brushing your Chesapeake weekly with
     a rubber brush is all he needs. The regular brushing will help
     distribute oils evenly throughout the coat and help shed any dead
     hair. In particular, you should not use a rake or a slicker on the
     coat, which can break down all the wave and kink in your
     Chesapeake's coat. A properly maintained Chesapeake coat will be
     only slightly moist after it shakes itself off when it comes out of
     the water. Since the Chesapeake is a double coated breed, it does
     shed, more than you might expect for a relatively short haired dog,
     but less than a long haired dog.
     
   How much exercise do they need?
   
     Like all the retriever breeds, the Chesapeake is an active dog and
     will become destructive if bored or underexercised. Note that any
     regular and/or heavy exercise should wait until your Chesapeake is
     at least a year old. While puppies should have plenty of
     opportunities for exercise, the exercise should be self selected
     (eg, allowing the puppy to run around in a field rather than
     dragging it along to go jogging with you).
     
   Are they good swimmers?
   
     Most Chesapeakes love the water! However, you should use good sense
     when introducing a puppy to the water. Throwing it in could cause
     the puppy to become afraid of the water. Instead, select a calm body
     of water, with plenty of shallow area for him to romp in. If you
     have another dog that loves to swim, this is the best way to entice
     a puppy into the water. Keep an eye on very young puppies in the
     water to be sure they don't get into trouble.
     
     Adult Chesapeakes are excellent swimmers. You will see their
     toplines just below the water and their tails acting as a kind of
     rudder. They will swim with powerful strokes and pull their head and
     shoulders out of the water to locate objects in the water.
     
   Just how well do they tolerate really cold water?
   
     An adult Chesapeake in good condition and aclimatized to the winter
     will do just fine in icy water. Do be sensible and observe
     precautions if you are near iced-over rivers or lakes that may break
     through. Make sure your dog dries off completely and quickly once he
     finishes swimming: with the correct coat, a quick shake is
     sufficient, if your dog has gotten wet down to the skin, a towel may
     help. Working Chesapeakes are often expected to work all day in icy
     water conditions.
     
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Special Medical Problems

  JOINT PROBLEMS
  
   Chesapeakes are susceptible to hip dysplasia as well as other joint
   problems. All breeding stock should be x-rayed and certified clear of
   hip dysplasia by the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals).
   
   Elbow problems, including Ununited Anconeal Process, and Degenerative
   Joint Disease (all called "OCD," or generally "Elbow Dysplasia") may
   be upcoming problems in the breed: both the closely related breeds
   Labradors and Flat Coats are finding increased incidences of these
   problems when they look for them. Ideally, breeding stock should begin
   clearing both elbows AND hips with OFA.
   
  EYE PROBLEMS
  
   
   
   They are also susceptible to an eye disease called PRA (Progressive
   Retinal Atrophy). This insidious disease of the eyes eventually causes
   blindness. It is believed to be inherited by a simple recessive mode.
   This means that for a dog to be affected, both parents must be either
   carriers or affected themselves. The problem is that this disease has
   a late onset where the dogs do not show symptoms until they are over
   four years of age, in which case they may have already been bred.
   Carriers show no symptoms. All breeding stock should be examined
   annually and have their eyes cleared through CERF (Canine Eye
   Registration Foundation). At present, this is believed to be more of a
   problem in other retriever breeds than the Chesapeake.
   
   Currently there is a blood test to identify affected and carrier dogs
   in Irish Setters. Hopefully there will soon be a test that will work
   on other breeds.
   
   As dogs that develop blindness later in life may have tested normal in
   previous ophthalmological examinations, it's important to find a
   breeder that not only tests all breeding stock annually, but also
   continues to test dogs that were used for breeding in their old age.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Resources

  BOOKS
  
   Bliss, Anthony, ed. The Chesapeake Bay Retreiver. Published by The
   American Chesapeake Club 1933/36. Rare and out of print, an excellent
   source of information.
   
   Cherry, Eloise H. The Complete Chesapeake Bay Retriever. Howell House,
   1981.
   
   Horn, Janet and Dr. Daniel Horn. The New Complete Chesapeake Bay
   Retriever. Howell Book House, 1994.
   
   Spencer, James B. Hunting Retrievers: Hindsights, Foresights and
   Insights, Alpine Publications.
   
   Chesapeake Bay Retriever Champions, 1952-1987. Camino Book Co. PO BOX
   729, Kings Beach, CA 96143-0729. Tel: 702-831-5553
   
   Byron, Gilbert. Chesapeake Duke, ill. by Jack Lewis published in 1975
   by Tidewater Publishers, Cambridge, MD 21613. Out of print. (fiction)
   Tidewater Publishers are now in Centrevill, MD, but don't appear to
   carry either this or Grover.
   
  EMAIL LIST
  
   Wilf Leblanc (wilf@io.com) maintains an email list for owners of
   Chesapeake Bay Retrievers. To subscribe, send email to
   MAJORDOMO@IO.COM with no/any subject line and in the body of the
   message, place the two words subscribe CHESSIE-L. Don't add your name
   nor your email address to those two words. If you want the digest
   version of the list, send subscribe CHESSIE-DIGEST instead.
   
  WEB SITES
     * http://www.chessie.org/ACC/
       American Chesapeake Club Homepage. The national breed club:
       standard, information, club ethics, etc.
     * 
       George Makatura's Chesapeake web site, with current events,
       puppies for sale, pictures, and portions of the old Chesapeake
       faq as well as other informative articles.
   Working Retriever Central, at http://starsouth.com/wrc/
   North American Hunting Retriever Association, at
       http://www.cvm.okstate.edu/~ACVA/nahra/nahrafaq.htm 
       
  BREED RESCUE ORGANIZATIONS
  
  BREEDERS
  
   You should contact the national breed club for information on local
   regional clubs where you can get to meet and know breeders in your
   area. The FAQ "Getting a Dog" details many tips on finding a reputable
   breeder. This FAQ is posted regularly to rec.pets.dogs.info.
   
  CLUBS
  
   American Chesapeake Club
          PO Box 18443, Chicago IL 60618-0443
          Send $1 and SASE for Club, Breed, Puppy, and Stud Service
          information.
          
   Canadian Chesapeake Club
          Bonnie Joy, Box 40, Wolfe Is, Ontario Canada K0H 2Y0
          Please send SASE when inquiring
          
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
   
    Chesapeake Bay Retriever FAQ
    Cindy Tittle Moore, rpd-info@netcom.com
