Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part3
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1995/9/16
Version: 3.5

Modifications and detailed fixes are at the web site -
http://ssn.ssnlink.net/~zatz/cc/

Most recent changes: updated Bohdan Bodnar's e-mail address

See the very last part of this section for reading ESA computer codes
without a scan tool! Useful for those without the key-turn-watch-light
feature (e.g. 1985 Caravans) -- and those with it!

Contents:
          1. Engine Codes
          2. Info from the Center for Auto Safety
          3. Classic Car Troubleshooting
          4. Reading codes without a scan tool
              (computer controlled, carbureted engines)
          5. Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines.

DISCLAIMER:
  While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
  information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
  contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
  damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
  The information below may be reproduced in any way PROVIDED
  credit is given to the writers and the maintainer; and that it is not
  published in book or magazine form without the prior written
  permission of the maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without
  needing to ask, a FREE copy of the final material; and no changes
  are made (except for formatting) without the express permission of
  the maintainer (zatz@ssnlink.net = David Zatz).
  - - - - - - - - - - - -
  The latest copy may be obtained by the following commands:
              ftp rtfm.mit.edu
              [Name:] anonymous
              [Password:] [your e-mail address]
              cd pub/usenet/rec.answers/autos/chrysler-faq/general
              dir
              get part1 part2 part3 part4
              cd ..
              get neon [or whatever other FAQ might be there]
              bye
  - - - - - - - - - - - -

FAQ for rec.autos.makers.Chrysler  -  Part III

********************************************************
COMPUTER CODES

THESE ONLY WORK IF YOU HAVE FUEL INJECTION. Otherwise, see the web site or
the "troubleshooting electronic feedback carburetors" section.

Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on,
off, on, off, on. (On is *not* start!)

The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a
two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH <pause> FLASH
FLASH FLASH <loong pause>

It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you don't have air conditioning.

When the computer indicates major failure, it will activate Limp In
mode, which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure.

Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this
is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete.

Leeched from Herb with additions by Charles Hobbs.

* Activates Power Limited/Check Engine light.

11  No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
      effect)
    OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth;
    OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor
12  Battery or computer recently disconnected
13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15  No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
17  Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)

21  Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V)
     Probably bad oxygen sensor
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range
     - May have been disconnected to set timing
23*  Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3)
25  Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted
    or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26  Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached
     (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
     (SEE NOTE #4 BELOW)
27  Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
     OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
     OR  (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
     OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
     - check computer, connections

31  Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
32  EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in
     air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated
     - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33  Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted
     (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
34  (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35  Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections
36  (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)
36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short
37  Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
                OR
    part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
                OR
     solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)
                OR
    Trans temparature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2)

41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42  Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
                OR
42  Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (whatever
that means)
43  Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
                OR
43 Cylinder misfire
                 OR
43  Problem in power module to logic module interface
44  No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
                OR
44  Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
                OR
44  Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
45  Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system
    voltage too low
47  Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low

51  Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (lean condition)
                OR
51  Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
52  Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
                OR
52  Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53  Logic module internal problem
54  No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
                OR
54  Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
55  End of codes

61  "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62  EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63  Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure

88  Start of test (not usually given, don't expect it)

  These codes cover multiple years and engines.

NOTE #1.

The power module has an air-cooled resistor which senses incoming air
temperature.  The logic modules uses this information to control the field
current in the alternator.  This code applies ONLY to alternators whose
voltage is computer regulated.  The battery voltage is sensed by the logic
module.  If you lose the feed to keep RAM information stored when the
engine's off, you also lose battery voltage sensing.       -- Bohdan Bodnar

NOTE #2

From the 1995 TRUCK manuals: the trailer towing package includes a
transmission coolant temp sensor while the standard package doesn't.
This may cause the low (no) voltage indication....no sensor
to send any voltage.   -- J.E. Winburn

NOTE #3

Matt Rowe <st92iijo@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu> comments:  The throttle
postion circuit tells the computer how far the accelerator is depressed.
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is on the throttle body on
the opposite side of the throttle cable.  The connector should
have a round rubber cover over the connections.  Clear the fault
codes, start the car and try jiggling the wires/connectors to try
to trip a fault code.  Loss of this signal could cause other problems.

NOTE #4

During  cranking, the computer will test the current through the
injector to see whether there's too much resistance in the injector's
path.  If there is, code 26 is set.
       The problem may be cured with copious use of
tuner cleaner on the connectors.
       For TBI engines, the injector's cold resistance should be between
0.9 and 1.2 ohms (specs vary with year).  This is a peak-and-hold
injector.  With the engine idling the
peak period should be about 1.2 milliseconds whereas the hold period
will vary.  If it's lower than this at idle, then the injector's shorted or
there's a defect in the injector driver circuit. (Bohdan Bodnar)


***********************************************************
CHRYSLER INFO from CENTER FOR AUTO SAFETY

This is just a summary, we suggest you contact CAS at 2001 S
Street NW, Washington, DC 20009 for more info. Ask for this factsheet
and provide a self-addressed, 55 cent stamped envelope and, if you like,
a donation. Comments in parentheses are editorial remarks. Further
information is available on the 1989-91 4-speed automatic transmission. A
recall on the ABS brakes on many 1990s models was just announced.

* FIRES - recalls on 1985-87 turbo models for bad fuel hose connections.
* Valve cover gaskets on 1989-90 FWD models
* FIRES - fuel reservoir leaks on 87-89 Omni/Horizon.
* STALLING - Omni/Horizons mostly, drivability kits issued (2.6?)
* TIMING CHAINS - 1981-86, 2.6 liter engine. Chrysler often paid at
least partly.
* POWER STEERING - various FWD models (including minivans), 1981-89.
Problems in Saginaw & TRW steering units. TSB 19-01-83.
* SUSPENSION: 1981-83 K-cars, front crossmember corrosion.
* SEATS - 1985 Laser, LeBaron, 600, Lancer, Daytona power driver's seat
attachment failure.
* PARK - in column-mounted automatic trans -- 1981-90 vehciles -- NHTSA
investigation closed.
* BRAKES - 1978-92 models, rear brake lockup and master cylinder
failure. Pressure may get repairs out of warranty.
- ABS in many 1991 vehicles: recalled 91V-1991
- disc brake pad separation in 1989 Daytona and LeBaron - recalled
- ABS in 1992 minivans: may lose fluid, lose ABS - recalled
* SEAT BELTS: difficulty latching front belts, all 1991 models
(recalled)
- inoperative automatic belts in 1988-89 Shadow/Sundance (recalled)
* A/C: clutch failure, 1985-86 4-cylinder models. TSBs 24-01-85,
24-02-86.
* TRANSMISSION: 1989-91 models with 4-speed auto are unreliable (big
surprise). Write to CAS-Ultradrive for more info with a 55 cent stamped,
addressed return envelope. 1992-94 models may also have problems.


**************** CLASSIC CAR TROUBLESHOOTING ****************
Index for Classic Cars:

MOVED TO PART 3

C1.  Won't start
C2.  Practically any problem -
     * mechanic says replace engine, trans, ignition, or carb
     * stalling, rough idle, pollution, low mileage, etc.
C3.  Stalling
C4.  Windshield wipers won't work
C5.  Water leaks into the car
C6.  Runs rough cold, improves with heat.
C7.  Rough idle on Lean-Burn (computer controlled carburetor) systems
C8.  Gas gauge acts funny: See #34 above.
C9.  Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow -- see #39 above
C10. Slant six (225) problems, esp w/Super Six setup
C11. Weatherstrip repair: see #63
C12. 318 V-8 troubleshooting
C13. Seat belt looseness

************ Older Car Troubleshooting ************

C1. Won't start (zatz@ssnlink.net <Dave>):

If the engine is dry and all was well before, check the ballast
resistor. It's a little white block attached to the firewall (the metal
between the engine and the driver), attached with a single bolt ands
connected to two electrical wires. It's incredibly easy to replace but
will eventually fail and prevent your car from starting. $5.

If the starter makes a rapid clicking noise, your battery may be worn
down, even if you can see your headlights. You will need a jump
from a car with a large engine and very good jumper cables.

If the engine was wet, dry it, separate the wires, and try again, Use
silicone spray or "wire drier" or, better yet, replace your wires with
top of the line, name-brand, lifetime warranty, 7 or 8mm wires. These will
probably improve your gas mileage and power as well.

SL6 Dan (dastern@gladstone.uoregon.edu) adds: The thickness of the
insulation is not nearly so important as what is inside. For daily drivers,
the best
wire I've found is Whitaker's Multi-Mag. It comes in the same
configurations and colors and insulation materials as original, but uses
the well-proven spiral-wound construction that you find in wires such as
Accel and Jacobs. Much lower resistance, but no irritating radio noise.
They also have a lifetime guarantee and don't cost more than regular
(NAPA, etc.) carbon-string type wires. The Slant-6 wire set (32605 for
pre-75) even has the correct 1-piece moulded spark plug boots.  These wires
are also sold under the BorgWarner/BWD KoolWire trade name.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C2. Anything from pollution to loss of power (zatz@ssnlink.net <Dave>)

This may be caused by leaking vacuum hoses or idiot mechanics
disconnecting your vacuum hoses. If you like to breathe, and you want
your car to perform well, replace all of the vacuum hose -- it costs
maybe 10 cents per foot. Just get a few yards and do
it one day (warning: you may need different kinds or sizes). Make sure
all vacuum hoses are straight and not kinked. On later cars, the
computer relies on vacuum; on earlier ones, the carb feedback and timing
depends on it.

Vacuum leaks caused by leaking hoses that look okay to the naked eye may
result in the following diagnoses by mechanics:
* Need new carburetor
* Need new transmission
* Need new engine
* Need valve job
* Need new mechanic.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C3. Stalling (zatz@ssnlink.net <Dave>)

See the above section on vacuum hoses. Turning the cold or warm idle
screw on the carburetor is a quick fix that doesn't solve the root
problem. If the car stalls when cold, lubricate the choke well. If it
stalls when wet, try getting much better ignition wires (8 mm, lifetime
warranty, good brand, about $30). Also try the following interesting
quick fixes:
* Put window insulating tape (foam) over the top of the electronic
ignition module
* Spray the little wires with silicone spray or wire drier
* Check for vacuum leaks (see above).
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C4. Windshield wipers won't work (zatz@ssnlink.net):

Put window insulating tape (foam) over the top of the wiper motor.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C5. Water leaks into the car:

A problem on many A-bodies (Valiant group). May be permanently solved by
(a) straightening out and emptying out the water exit hose, which drains
the cowl (the grille on top of the hood); and (b) keeping the cowl free
of leaves and gunk. This means occassionally raising the hood and
manually emptying the cowl opening. The little black tubes that carry
excess water out of there (2 of them) may be seen on the firewall (the
metal between the engine and the driver). Search for them. They're small
and behind other stuff. I might add that other makes, including Japanese
cars, also sometimes have this problem (as well as vacuum leaks).
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C6. runs rough cold, seems to improve with heat

georgey@bnr.ca (George Young) suggests:
1) Not enough voltage from old damp coil to light cold mixture?  - new
coil.
2) EGR valve plunger binding open?
   - remove and plug manifold vacuum hose to EGR circuit.
3) Other vacuum hose split?
   - replace all vac hoses.

zatz@ssnlink.net adds: 1) Better wires, CC rotor/distributor cap for best fit.

georgey@bnr.ca (George Young) adds: My old 318 ran rough when cold and
wet, would stall out until warm.  Choke was the problem.  Manifold
carboned up and wouldn't pass heat to choke coil thermostat.  Changed to
manual choke and no more problem and increased gas mileage

Norm Woodward mentioned the electric choke heater: "The device's only use
was the confuse the choke into prematurely thinking that the engine was
heated up, allowing the autos to pass EPA tests in laboratory conditions,
but causing the car to stall when shifted out of park or neutral until the
engine was nearly warmed up...  The correct fix was to simply remove the
wire powering the  heater, and resetting curb idle which has probably been
set, by this time, too high.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C7. Lean-Burn (computer-controlled carbureted engine) rough idle

bohdan.bodnar@lucent.com writes: My recollection is that
this system controlled air/fuel mixture only. (318 Lean Burn)

1). Are your coolant temperature sensor connection ok?  If not, the
computer will see a cold engine and will run rich.
2). Are the oxygen sensor connections ok?
3). Is the heated air inlet operating correctly?
4). Vacuum leaks?  Check all vacuum hoses with a religious fervor!
    The leak's location many not even be obvious!
5). Carburetor problems:  float low?  valve seat damage?  I doubt the
latter since it appears that the problem arose quite suddenly. The
following is something I've used on computer-controlled carbureted
engines many times: 1). Connect a high impedance dwell meter to the
mixture control solenoid, set the meter to the 6 cylinders scale, run
the engine around 2000 rpm until hot and see the dwell.  If the a/f
mixture's ok, you'll see the dwell oscillating about 30 degrees.  Low
dwell with oscillations => a/f mixture lean and running closed loop.
High dwell with oscillations => a/f mixture rich and running closed
loop.  Dwell at or below 10 degrees => system stuck lean.  Dwell at or
above 50 degrees => system stuck rich.  The latter two extremes indicate
closed loop operation since open loop operation typical will show a
stable dwell reading between 20 and 30 degrees (usually, closer to 20).
Do not do this test at idle since some engines will be operated in open
loop at idle REGARDLESS of the coolant temperature sensor's output.
Incidently, I've just outlined the procedure for GM's "System
Performance Test" which is used on GM C3 carbureted engines.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C8.   Gas gauge acts funny: See #34. (part 4)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C9. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow -- see #39 (part 4)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C10. Slant Six problems

Cold driveability problems tend to stem from poorly
adjusted choke and choke pulloff, bad accelerator pump, and sloppy carb
rebuilds (Carter BBS one barrel is better than Holley 1920.)
Other big driveability problem source is the fact that the vibration
damper outer ring tends to slip, which makes the timing mark WAY OFF. Which
means timing would never be accurately set.  Also check for timing chain
stretch.

Check by putting the engine at #1 TDC - top of compression stroke (both
valves closed) and see where the timing mark is.  There are companies that
re-bond dampers with new silicone material.  I think one is called Damper
Dudes, out of California. I don't know if this happens on other CC engines.
Basically, if your damper has an inner hub and an outer ring sandwiching
rubber bonding material, this can happen.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C11. 318 V8 troubleshooting

From: bt511@torfree.net (Bruce Martin) wrote:
One very common fault with the otherwise wonderful 318 is that the
exhaust crossover in the intake manifold (which warms the base
of the carb) becomes clogged. This is common so it should be
among the first things you check.

blackcat@aztec.asu.edu (CURT PINCK) wrote:
It is interesting the wide variety of timing specs given for the 318, all
the way from 2 degrees ATDC to 16 degrees ATDC, depending on the type of
engine and vehicle...Most books recommend not to try to time by ear, even
if you have experience doing this.

Ted Devey <tedv@ftn.net> adds two more steps:
1. examine the reluctor teeth in the distributor for possible damage,
nicks etc. which can happen if the gap gets too small. If there is damage
to the teeth, replace the reluctor.

2. Several years ago I dismantled the Carter 2-barrel carburettor and
reassembled it with the jet assembly upside down. There is no obvious wrong
way.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C13. Seat belt looseness

During the late 70's up through the late 80's all American cars had
something called a window shade mechanism to allow for a small amount of
slack to build-up in the shoulder belt.  This was to prevent people from
complaining that their belts were too tight.  I experienced (ref:June '87
Car and Driver article by Patrick Bedard) a problem where the seatbelt
built up too much slack.  Sometimes the belts, like a windowshade, would
never return at all.  There is usually a large plastic button on the 'B'
pillar that needs to be fooled into thinking the door is always opened,
which by the way disables the window shade mechanism and is how the belts
return 'home' when you get out of the car.   Cut the plastic button very
close to the 'B' pillar, being careful not to cut into the inner spring
Take a  cotter pin and put it through the loops of the spring, this
prevents the spring from ever retracting.  Chrylser mini-vans are even
easier in that they have a rotating plastic cam with a striker pin that is
engaged by the closing door.  Just cut the striker pin and you eliminate
the problem.


=========================

DIAGNOSING PROBLEMS IN COMPUTER CONTROLLED
CARBURETED ENGINES

From: bohdan.bodnar@lucent.com (Bohdan L Bodnar)

This is a description of the procedure I've used to diagnose air/fuel
mixture problems in computer controlled carbureted engines;  the
outlined procedure can also be used to set the idle air/fuel mixture
without infrared exhaust gas analysis.  The procedure is
based on the General Motors "System Performance Test."

THEORY

The a/f mixture is controlled by a MIXTURE CONTROL SOLENOID (MC
solenoid). This is a valve which operates at a fixed frequency
(typically, 10 Hz) and whose duty cycle (valve's ON time divided by
period) is varied.  That is, the valve is pulse width modulated.  When
the valve is turned on, the incoming a/f mixture is fully leaned;  when
off, fully enrichened.  The former is called a "lean command" whereas
the latter is called a "rich command."  By varying the duty cycle of the
MC solenoid, the AVERAGE a/f mixture can be varied.  In GM products,
this valve directly varies the incoming fuel and air flow.  In Chryslers,
only the
incoming fuel flow is directly varied.

The valve has a two wires electrical connector.  On wire is connected to
switched battery voltage whereas the other is connected to a power
transistor in the computer and is a source of switched ground.

During closed-loop operation the following will occur (assume the oxygen
sensor is sensing a lean condition -- its voltage will be low):

1). The computer gradually decreases the MC solenoid's duty cycle.

2). The exhaust eventually becomes rich enough that the oxygen sensor's
output will swing high (about 1 volt).

3). The computer gradually increases the MC solenoid's duty cycle.

4). The exhaust eventually becomes lean enough that the oxygen sensor's
output will swing low (about 0 volt).

The cycle now repeats.  A device for monitoring the solenoid's duty
cycle (such as a dwell meter) will show a constantly varying duty cycle.
The frequency of the oscillations will depend on the how fast the
computer varies the duty cycle and the engine's RPM.  An AVERAGE duty
cycle of 50% corresponds to, on the average, NO average a/f correction.
Stated differently, everything is operating correctly.  An average duty
cycle of LESS THAN 50% corresponds to, on the average, a rich command
(the computer is compensating for a lean condition).  An average duty
cycle GREATER THAN 50% corresponds to, on the average, a lean command.

DIAGNOSIS AND SETTING IDLE A/F MIXTURE

Monitoring the MC solenoid's average duty requires (for most people) the
use of high impedance dwell meter. A low impedance dwell meter may be
used unless it affects engine operation;  my recommendation is to not
use a low impedance dwell meter (that is, stay away from self-powered
dwell meters).  Following the GM procedure, set the dwell meter to the
six cylinders scale REGARDLESS of the number of cylinders in the engine.
At this setting, 30 degrees will correspond to a 50% duty cycle, 60 to a
100% duty cycle, and 0 to a 0% duty cycle.  Run the engine until closed
loop operation is present;  this will be indicated by a varying dwell
(see footnote 1 for deviations from this procedure).  Once the engine is
hot, not the average dwell -- the reading should vary equally above 30
degrees and equally below 30 degrees.  The following is a brief trouble
listing:

1). DWELL NOT VARYING:  system is operating in open loop.

2). DWELL STUCK AT 10 DEGREES OR LOWER:  full rich command is present;
the computer is compensating for WHAT APPEARS TO BE a massive fuel flow
reduction (check for dirt in carburetor, air injection system stuck in
upstream position, vacuum leaks, improper a/f mixture setting...).

3). DWELL STUCK AT 50 DEGREES OR UP:  full lean command is present
(check for float stuck low, valve seat damage, oxygen sensor's sense
lead shorted to battery voltage, etc.)

4). DWELL OSCILLATING, AVERAGE READING IS BELOW 30 DEGREES:  average
rich command is present (check for vacuum leaks, dirt in carburetor's
jets, improperly set a/f mixture...)

5). DWELL OSCILLATING, AVERAGE READING IS ABOVE 30 DEGREES:  average
lean command is present.  Check for incorrectly set a/f mixture, float
stuck low, valve seat damage, clogged air filter, etc...).

Based on the above descriptions, it should be fairly clear on how to set
the idle a/f mixture:  merely set the mixture so that the average dwell
is 30 degrees.  Now, suppose the system's dwell is not varying, but the
sensors are working properly, the upper radiator hose is hot...

Several cars with small engines have the oxygen sensor mounted fairly
far away from the engines.  Indeed, during idle conditions, the sensor
may cool off to the point that it will not operate.
My recommendation is that all electrical accessories be turned off (so
as to provide a minimal load on the engine) and use the idle stop screw
on the carburetor to gradually increase the idle rpm until the sensor
begins oscillating.  Ensuring a negligible load on the engine guarantees
that the carburetor will be operating mostly on its idle circuit.  Now,
set the a/f mixture so that the average dwell is 30 degrees.

Note that the a/f mixture setting procedure assumes that NO fuel
delivery problems (vacuum leaks, clogged carburetor, etc.) are present.

FOOTNOTES

[1]  In some engines (e.g., GM cars with the "min-T" system -- Chevette)
the a/f mixture is varied REGARDLESS of whether the engine is in closed
loop operation or not.  Consider setting the a/f mixture or diagnosing
at a slightly increased rpm.

**************************************************

5. REPLACING CRANKCASE INLET AIR FILTERS

If you remove the air cleaner and look at it from the front, the
breather (crankcase filter) will be in the "box" at the lower right
side.  To get at it, you remove the 8 or so machine screws and the
bottom of this "box" will fall off.  The filter is held in place by a
crudely placed screen.  Lee makes a replacement filter (about
$2).  In my Le Baron, I ended up replacing all the screws with
self-tapping sheet metal screws since the factory had almost every one
overtightened.   --- Bohdan Bodnar

--
http://ssn.ssnlink.net/~zatz/cc/dave.html -- zatz@ssnlink.net
Organizational Development and Survey Analysis


