Archive-name: travel/sumatra-guide/part1
Posting-Frequency: monthly

                                 SUMATRA

                          The Internet Travel Guide

                              Peter M. Geiser


**************************************************************************

Contents
 Introduction
 Copyright (c) 1995, 1996

 1. General Overview
 1.1 Geographical Information
 1.2 Climate
 1.3 People
 1.4 Etiquette
 1.5 Visa
 1.6 Embassies
 1.7 Border Crossing
 1.8 Customs
 1.9 Money
 1.10 Accommodation
 1.11 Food
 1.12 Health

 2. Transportation
 2.1 Flying
 2.2 Train
 2.3 Bus
 2.4 Car
 2.5 Becak and Taxi
 2.6 Trekking

 3. Places
     Banda Aceh
     Medan
     Lake Toba
     Samosir Island
     Prapat
     Nias Island
      - Gunungsitoli
      - Telukdalam
     Bukttinggit
     Padang

 4. Literature
 4.1 Guidebooks
 4.2 Travellers Tales
 4.3 Language
 4.4 Culture
 4.5 Historical/Political
 4.6 Internet

 A. Contributors

**************************************************************************

The Internet Travel Guide
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm
Copyright (c) 1995, 1996 Peter M. Geiser
Peter.Geiser@student.unisg.ch

Last change 18. September 1996.
Updates: FAQ: monthly, HTML: more often

**************************************************************************

INTRODUCTION

The main objective of this FAQ is to provide the reader with the newest
travel information available, like what is the current situation on visa,
where to stay and what prices are reasonable, etc. It is not a guide to
the Sumatras culture or history (although I started to include some
information about those subjects as well), for these non-changing facts
are much more pleasanlty presented in many good books (see the list in
section 4 in this FAQ). It is also not intended to be a political pamphlet
since politics is often a very opinionated subject. However, I started to
include some political facts where I felt it was appropriate.

Remember: Things change very fast, so by the time you get to Sumatra the
information in this FAQ may be outdated. If you encounter this, please
bear with me. Instead of being upset, rather share your experiences with
other people on the net. The next tourist will thank you if he or she can
rely on your new information. Also, if you find time during your travels
to write a postcard or a letter to me, I would greatly apreciate it.

Some paragraphs are led by the name of the author in brackets. This
doesn't mean that these are their only contributions, but rather that in
that case I chose to leave the words as the author wrote them, adding a
more personal note to the FAQ.


Answering questions

There are many people who send mail to ask me some questions. As much as
I like to answer as many questions as possible, my time is limited. I do
this work in my spare time, so I frequently answer the questions only
after a couple of days (or even weeks if I'm away for a while.) It also
happens that I cannot return an e-mail due to an invalid e-mail address.
Please be careful to include a valid e-mail address, or then ask me to
post the answer in rec.travel.asia.

This quide lives by being up-to-date. Since I cannot travel all the time,
I am glad to receive suggestions, contributions and comments. Any addition
is useful, regardless of the size.

**************************************************************************

COPYRIGHT NOTICE

In accordance with the Berne convention, this document is copyrighted
worldwide. The information provided within this document is the property
of the original authors. The author especially reserves the right to the
exclusive use of the term "The Internet Travel Guide".

This document or parts thereof may NOT be sold for profit or included in
any commercial documents (e. g. books, esp. guide books, magazines,
CD-ROMs, WWW-pages, the Microsoft Network or any other form) without the
prior written permission of the copyright holder. This permission is valid
exactly for the agreed version (or if no version was stated at the
published version on the date of the agreement) at the time the permission
was granted; it does not cover future or any other versions. However,
following the common practice of the Internet, this document may be freely
redistributed without any modification whatsoever, including this
copyright notice.

If you as the reader has paid to get this document, please let me know. As
much as I would like I cannot give you back your money, but I can try to
put an end to the illegal stealing of other people's work.

**************************************************************************

The Internet Travel Guide
Copyright (c) 1995, 1996
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm

Peter M. Geiser
Seeblickstr. 10
9010 St. Gallen
Switzerland

Peter.Geiser@student.unisg.ch

**************************************************************************

1. GENERAL OVERVIEW

1.1 GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION

Sumatra is a part of the Republic of Indonesia. It is located to the west
of Malysia, streching over 

Area          473'481 km2
Highest point Mt. Kerinci, 3805 m

Time          GMT plus 7 hours

Measures      Metric
Electricity   220 V, 50 Hz, in some areas 110 V

In the Web-version of the Internet Travel Guide at
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser there would be a map right here.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.2 CLIMATE

Temperature is nearly the same all year round, averaging between 25 to 30
degrees.

On the west coast it rains quite a lot, less so on the east.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.3 PEOPLE

Population      36.6 mio
Language        Bahasa Indonesia
Religion        mostly Muslim, some Christian, Hindu and Buddhists

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.4 ETIQUETTE

This section has been written by Tris Swan.

Some Information about how to behave in Indonesia

Always remember that you are a guest in the country you travel. Especially
in Indonsia, rules about how to behave differ considerably from what we
are used to. They are of part Islamic, part Asian influence. In spite of
its mixed people, Indonesia has - unlike other countries - managed to
establish a (in most regions) very peaceful co-existence between its
various religions (Christians, Muslims, Buddhists, ...).


General Appearance

Women: Thanks to American movies, Indonesian men classify Western women as
easy and willing targets. You may be molested. To prevent this, wear loose
and covering clothing and a bra! Be especially considerate not to offend
in fundamentalistically Islamic regions (e.g. Banda Aceh). In principle:
no shorts, no tight tops and no topless sunbathing anywhere!

Men: If you want to be taken seriously and treated with respect, you
should wear long trousers. As almost everywhere in Asia, short trousers
are worn by the working poor.

In case you have to deal with officials (police, mayor) be careful not to
offend with your clothing.

How strictly these rules apply depends on the region you are travelling
in. In touristic centers, shorts and sleeveless shirts will be more
accepted than in villages off the beaten track.


Dressing rules in Temples/Mosques

Women have to cover their hair in Islamic mosques and to wear a skirt in
many temples. Although the requisite items can be rented, it may be
cheaper and more convenient to buy a sarong and carry it around in your
backpack.


Gestures

In short, all sorts of macho gestures are a no-no in Indonesia. Don't
cross your arms over your chest, don't brace your arms on your hips and
don't point at people. If you want to beckon to somebody, do so with your
palm towards the earth as though (in our part of the world), you intended
to shoo the person away but instead beckon towards yourself.


Shoes

Before entering buildings, you often have to take off your shoes. This
will be the case in front of a mosque, a temple, the home of an Indonesian
family, stores and other places. The best thing to do is to watch the
natives, look out for other pairs of shoes in front of a house or a basin
to wash the dust from your feet.


Feet

Your feet (as well as your left hand) are considered "unclean". It is
simply unthinkable to put your feet on the table anywhere or to sit with
your legs stretched so that the soles of your feet are turned towards a
person. Sit cross-legged or squat Asian style.


Hands

In Arabia, the loo is a hole in the floor and a tap on your left side.
Having finished "business", you will wash your bottom with your left hand
using running water from the tap. Therefore, the left hand is considered
"unclean" in some parts of the world. Don't pass anything (change, salt,
gifts) with it. You only eat with your right hand.


Ramadan/Islamic customs

Be especially considerate if traveling in September (Ramadan), the Islamic
fasting month, or in Islamic regions. Ask a Muslim colleague or consult a
travel book as to how to behave. Very, very basically (just to give at
least the hint of a concept), it is not allowed to smoke, eat and drink in
the presence of the Koran and during special (holy) times (such as Ramadan
or the hours of prayer). Treat the book of the Koran itself with
reverence. NEVER urge a Muslim to eat pork or drink alcohol. In mosques,
stay at the back or at the sides and NEVER step in front of or ever speak
to a praying person.

Some "food for thought": Fundamentalism has its roots partly in the
disregard some religions show towards others. Non-Islamic, especially
Western people may not understand all aspects about Islamic religion and
disagree with some of them, but it is a perfect insolence to believe that
just because YOU are so disillusioned or spoiled by progress that YOU have
long since lost YOUR faith in YOUR god(s) and don't care about YOUR
religion's special ceremonies anymore, Muslims should think the same about
their religion. Therefore, since your are a guest in THEIR country, are
allowed to visit THEIR mosques, listen to THEIR services and perhaps even
visit them at THEIR homes, please show some decency and manners and behave
according to their rules. Inconsiderate tourists can pour oil into the
flames and will be the first who complain about the next Jihad. To
understand and respect each other's difference is a first step towards
peace for all of us.


Couples

No Asian woman will tolerate the touch of her mate in public. This may
change now that the young are influenced by Western culture but the rule
for travelers still is: no hand-in-hand walking, no kissing, no fondling.
In some parts of South East Asia you will be put in jail for these
offenses.

In losmen, hotels etc it is recommendable to make believe you are married
if you want to share the same room without problems. Since you are not
allowed to touch in public, you can also say you're married (kawin or
nikah) if you just have to share a room with an acquaintance of the
opposite sex due to budget reasons.


Politeness

Asians are experts in the art of politeness, although not in every
instance. Who has ever been jostled in busses, subways or in the streets
knows where their good manners end. Their worst fear is to lose face. This
can be brought about by having to deny something, an error they made or
impoliteness from your side. Therefore, in any situation always stay calm
and smile as though you hadn't a care in the world. Speak with moderate
voice and never impose on anybody, even if you know that he/she is dead
wrong. Example from Japan which applies almost anywhere: you booked a room
in advance and upon arrival they tell you the hotel is full. No rooms are
left and they never heard of your reservation. Now, it's no use to shake
the room confirmation in front of their faces and shout like a madman
(else you will lose face). Instead, show them the fax, express your
distress and ask them if perhaps an error occurred. Ask if the
receptionist's colleague might know anything about this matter etc.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.5 VISA

Tourists may stay for up to 2 months. There is no extension available.

A visa is not necessary for people from other ASEAN countries, Australia,
Austria, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece,
Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, the
Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland,
Turkey, United Kingdom and the USA.
For people from other countries, a visa valid one month may be obtained
from an Indonesian embassy or consulate.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.6 EMBASSIES

INDONESIAN EMBASSIES ABROAD

Algeira
6 Rue Muhammed Chemlal, B.P. 6216070, El-Mauradia Algier,
Tel (213-1) 602011, 602051, Fax 591245

Argentina
Mariskal Ramon Castila 2901, 1425 Buenos Aires, Tel 8016622, 8016655,
8017142, Fax 8024448

Australia
Embassy:    8 Darwin Ave, Yarralumla, Canberra, ACT-2600,
            Tel 2733222 (?), 2508600, Fax 2508666
Consulates: Adelaide, Tel 2236535
            18 Harry Chan Avenue, Darwin, NT-0800, Tel 819352 (?), 410048,
            Fax 412709
            236-238 Maroubra Road, Maroubra, NSW-2035, Tel 3449933
            72 Queen's Road, Melbourne, VIC-3004, Tel 6907811 (?),
            5252755, Fax 5251588
            134 Adelaide Tce., East Perth, WA-6004, Tel 2198212 (?),
            2215858, Fax 2215688
            Sydney, Tel 3449933

Austria
Gustav Tschenmakgasse 5-7, 1180 Wien, Tel 0222342533

Bangladesh
Gulshan Ave 75, Gulshan Model Town, Dhaka, Tel 600131

Belgium
Avenue de Turvueren 294, 1150 Brussels, Tel 7712014

Brazil
Setor Embaixada Sul Avenida, Das Nacoes Yuadra, 805, Lote 20 Caixa Postal
08934, Tel (06)2430102, 2430233, 2444904, Fax (061)2431713

Brunei
EDR 4303 Lot 4498 KG, Sungai Hanching Baru, Simpang 528, Jl Muara,
PO Box 3013, Bandar Seri Begawan, Tel 330180

Bulgaria
32, Veliko Turnovo Street, Sofia 1504, Tel (00359)(2)442349, 441787,
Fax (00359)(1)446544

Canada
Embassy:    287 MacLaren Street, Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0L9,
            Tel (613)2367403
Consulates: 129 Jarvis Street, Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2H6,
            Tel (416)5916462, 3604020, Fax (416)3604295
            1455 West Georgia Street, 2nd Floor, Vancouver, B.C., V6G 2T3,
            Tel (604)6828855, Fax (604)6628396

Chile
PO Box 20 D, Santiago, Tel (02)20811541.

China
Sanlitun Diplomatic Office Building B, Beijing, 100600, Tel 5325484,
Fax 5325366

Colombia
Carrera 9 No. 76-27, Santa Fe De Bogota D.C., Tel (021)2176738,
Fax (571)2103507

Denmark
Orehoj Alle 1, 2900 Hellerup, Copenhagen, Tel (01)624539

Ethiopia
Mekanisa Road Higher 23, Kebele 13, Hous No. 1816, PO Box 1004, Addis
Ababa, Tel (00251) 712104

Finland
37 Berikinkatu, 00810 Helsinki 18, Tel (694)7744

France
Embassy:    47-49 Rue Contambert, 75116 Paris, Tel 45030760
Consulate:  Marseille, Tel 91713435

Germany
Embassy:    Bernkastelerstr. 2, 5300 Bonn 2, Tel (0228)328990
Consulates: Berlin, Tel 4722002, Bremen, Tel (0421)3322224,
            Tel (0211)353081, Frankfurt am Main, Tel (06105)76003,
            Hamburg, Tel (040)512071, Hannover, Tel (511)1032150, Kiel,
            Tel (0431)603425, Muenchen, Tel (089)294609, Stuttgart,
            Tel (711)223729

Greece
Consulate: 11-13 Shyrou St, Athens 811, Tel 9914082

Hong Kong
Consulates: 127-129 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong,
            Tel 8904421

Hungary
Gorkij Fasor No. 26, 1068 Budapest, Tel (361)1428508, Fax (361)1228669

India
Embassy:    50A Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 110021, Tel 602353
Consulates: Bombay, Tel 368678, Calcutta, Tel 460297

Iraq
Hay Al Wahda 906/02/77, PO Box 420, Baghdad, Tel (964-1) 7198677

Italy
Embassy:    53 Via Campania, 00187 Rome, Tel 4825951
Consulates: Genoa, Tel 268322, Napoli, Tel 400143, Trieste, Tel 765601

Japan
Embassy:    2-9 Higashi Gotanda 5 Chome, Shinagawa-Ku, Tokyo,
            Tel 4414201, 34414201, 34414209, Fax 34471697
Consulates: Fukuoka, Tel (092)7613031
            Kato Building 3rd floor, Kyomachi 76-1, Chuo-ku, Kobe 605,
            Tel (078)3211656, Fax (078)3920792
            883-3 Chome 4-Jo, Miyayanomori, Sapporo, Tel (011)2516002

Kenya
Utalli Hous 3rd Floor, Uhuru Highway/Loita Street, PO Box 48868, Nairobi,
Tel 215874/5, 215848, Fax (2542)340721

Korea, Democratic People's Republic
5 Foreigner's Building Moon So Dong, PO Box 178 Taedongkang, District
Pyong Yang, Tel 81-7425

Laos
Phon Kheng Road, PO Box 277, Vientiane, Tel 413907, 413909, 413910,
413914

Luxembourg
Consulate: Gote d'Eich 15, Luxembourg, Tel 0352 471591

Malaysia
Embassy:    Jalan Tun Razak No 233, PO Box 10889, 50400 Kuala Lumpur,
            Tel 9842011
Consulates: Kota Kinabalu, Tel 54100, Penang Island, Tel 25162

Mexico
Calle Julio Verme No. 27, Colonia Polanco, Mexico 11560 D.F,
Tel 280 5748, 280 6363, 280 6237, 280 6863, Fax 280 7062

Myanmar
100 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Road, PO Box 1401, Rangoon, Tel 81174, 81358

Netherlands
8 Tobias Asserlaan, 5517 s'Gravenhage, Tel (070)3108100

New Zealand
70 Glen Road, Kelburn, Wellington, Tel 758695, Fax 759374

Nigeria
5, Anifowoshe Street, Victory Island, PO Box 3473, Lagos,
Tel (01)610508, 614601, Fax 234 1 613.301

Norway
Gt 8 Inkognito, 0258 Oslo 2, Tel 441121

Pakistan
Embassy:    Diplomatic Enclave Ramna 5/4, PO Box 1019, Islamabad,
            Tel 811291
Consulates: Karachi, Tel 531938

Philipines
185 Salcedo Street, Lagaspi Village, PO Box 372 MCC, Makati, Metro Manila,
Tel 855061

Poland
UL Wachocka No. 9 Saska Kepa, PO Box 33-00-950, Warsawa, Tel 175179

Romania
Starda Orlando 10, PO Box 1109, Bucharest, Tel 120212, Fax 120214

Russia
12 Novokuznetskaya Ulitsa, Moskwa, Tel 2319549

Senegal
126, Avenue Cheikh Anta Diop-X, Avenue Bourguiba, B.P.5859, Dakkar,
Tel (221) 257316, Fax (221) 255896

Singapore
7 Chatsworth Road, Singapore 1024, Tel 7377422

Spain
Embassy:    65 Calle de Agestia, Madrid 28043, Tel 4130294
Consulates: Barcelona, Tel 3171900

Sri Lanka
1 Police Park, Colombo 5, Tel 580113

Sweden
47/V Strandvagen, 11456 Stockholm, Tel 6635470

Switzerland
Elfenauweg 51, Postfach 270, 3006 Bern, Tel (031)440983

Tanzania
299, Upanga Road, PO Box 572, Dar Es Salaam, Tel 46347, Fax 46350

Thailand
600-602 Phetburi Road, Bangkok, Tel 2523135

Tunesia
117, Avenue Jugurtha, Mutullevile B.P. 63,  El-Menzah, 1004, Tunis, 
Tel 797188, Fax: 791303

Turkey
Abdullah Cevdet Sok No. 10, PK.C 42 Cankaya-06680, Ankara, Tel 4382190,
Fax 4382193

United Kingdom
38 Grosvenor Square, London, Tel (0171)4997661

USA
Embassy:    2020 Massachusetts Ave NW, Washington DC 20036,
            Tel 202 7755200
Consulates: 2 Illinois Center, 233 North Michigan Avenue, Suite
            1422, Chicago, Il 60601, Tel (312)9380101, Fax (312)9383148
            Honolulu, Tel 808 5244300
            10900 Richmond Avenue, Houston, TX 77042, Tel (713)7851691,
            Fax (713)7809644
            Los Angeles, Tel 213 3835126
            5 East 68th Street, New York, NY 10017, Tel (212)8790600
            1111 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94133,
            Tel (415)4749571, Fax (415)4414320

Vatican
Piazzale Roberto Ardigo 42, 00142 Rome, Tel 594 0441, Fax 541 7934

Venezuela
Apartado De Correos 67061, Caracas 1061-A, Tel (58.2)9780793, Fax 9760550

Vietnam
50 Pho Ngo Quyen, Hanoi, Tel 256316, Fax 259274


FOREIGN EMBASSIES IN SUMATRA


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.7 BORDER CROSSING

Entry to and exit of Indonesia is only allowed at certain 'gateway'
cities. For other cities, a special permit is needed.

Air

Ambon, Bali, Balikpapan, Batam, Biak, Jakarta, Kupang, Manado, Medan,
Pekanbaru, Pontianak and Surabaya.

Sea

Ambon, Bali, Balikpapan, Batam, Jakarta, Manadao, Medan, Riau, Semarang,
Surabaya and Tanjung Pinang.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.8 CUSTOMS

There is no limitation on importing and exporting foreign currency.
Indonesian rupees are limited to INR 50000.

A maximum of two litres alcoholic beverages, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars
or 100 g of tobacco, and a reasonable amount of perfume per adult are
allowed on entry. Cars, photographic equipment, typewriters and tape
recorders must be declared when entering and must be taken out again.
Narcotics, arms and ammunition, TV sets and radios are prohibited.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.9 MONEY

The currency is the Indonesian Rupee (INR). It is divided into 100 Sen,
but the Sen is no longer used.
Denominations: 50000, 20000, 10000, 5000, 1000, 500, 100. There are coins
of 500, 100, 50 and 25 INR.

The exchange rate is about USD 1 = 2203(Jan 1995)
(Historical development: 2160 in 1994, 2087 in 1993, 2030 in 1992, 1950 in
1991, 1843 in 1990)

There are several banks with slightly different exchange rates. Although
they don't vary much, it still may be worth your while to look around for
the best rate on offer. Some banks: Bank Negara Indonesia, Lippo Bank.

Travellers' Cheques can be changed in larger cities and tourist
destinations.

If you want to leave the beaten path for a longer time, you should
consider postal cheques.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.10 ACCOMMODATION

Acommodation is reletively cheap, starting at less than USD 3. It is
usually no problem getting a room.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.11 FOOD

Food is generally very cheap, to give an example, a glass of tea can be
obtained for as little as INR 100. Depending on the location, many
different styles of Asian food is available; apart from Indonesian, you
will often see Malay, Chinese and Indian restaurants.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.12 HEALTH

The normal health considerations apply to Sumatra. There is a serious risk
of getting malaria (see below.)

Threats for sunbathers are sunburn and heat exhaustion. Drink a lot (not
alcohol) make sure you get enough salt, and cover your skin with sun
lotion.

Malaria
Malaria (from French 'mal air', bad air) is an infection of the blood
caused by the bite of moscitoes (Anopheles). The decay of the red blood
cells causes fever and eventually a lack of oxygen which can, in case of a
malaria cerebral, cause brain damage. Depending on the type of malaria
these fever shocks appear every three (malaria tertiana) or four (malaria
quartana). Death rate of malaria is less than 1%.
There have been many discussions on how to best deal with it and even
the doctors have not yet agreed on a single opinion.
There are two possibilities for prohylaxis. For a short stay (less than
one month) in a malaria endangered region, prophylaxis with Lariam, as
described by doctors, is recommended. This gives nearly 100% protection.
For longer trips, Lariam should not be used, since there are too many side
effects (such as liver problems). If you want to use a prophylctics at
all, use one on Chloroquin (several different brands) basis. Although
protection is only about 50 - 70%, it still reduces the effects of an
actual infection. 
The most important thing about malaria is to recognise it as such. Every
little health center with a microscope can make a reliable diagnose. If
you feel sick, have a check done. In case of a negative result, and you
keep feeling sick, then have the check re-done every three days. Use your
own, clean blood-sampling needles.
A special danger causes a malaria that develops at the same time as a flue
or a pneumonia, since it is often recognised too late.
Carry a treatment package with you (e.g. Lariam or Halfon) and use it
according to the instructions on the package slip once malaria has beed
diagnosed. Do visit a doctor! Local treatments (mainly Cloroquine) are
made for the local population which is semi-immunised. These treatments
are often too weak for Western people. Somebody taking Lariam treatment
should always be watched by another person, because of the side-effects
(especially mental problems, depressions, nightmares, and higher
photo-sensitivity of the skin. There is even a small danger of suicide!) 
However, the most effective way to prevent malaria are mosquitoe repellant
(possibly with at least 20% DEET, or citronella.) Since mosquitoes are
only active after sundown and before sunset, make sure you wear clothes
that cover the skin and use a good mosquitoe net.
Malaria can break out up to three month after leaving the endangered
region. Take this into account if you become sick within this time and
have a malaria test made.

**************************************************************************

2. TRANSPORTATION

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.1 FLYING

Flying is cheap and easy. Flights may, however, not be readily available
at exactly the time you want them. Booking ahead is recommended.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.2 TRAIN

In Sumatra, there are several lines of railway that are not connected.

The train from Lake Toba to Medan takes some 7 hours.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.3 BUS

Busses are the main means of transportation. They are cheap and reliable.
However, it's worth to pay a bit more to get the tourist bus or minibus.

The bus between Medan and Prapat is INR 3000. The minibus is more
expensive (INR 10000) and takes about 4 hours. Do not take the evening bus
from Prapat to Medan, there are numerous accidents, and it may as well hit
the tourist minibus.

The bus from Bukittinggi to Lake Toba costs INR 27000 and takes the whole
day. It leaves between 7:30 and 8:30 and arrives after dark in Prapat
(around 8 or 9 pm). It arrives too late for the last boat, so you'll have
to stay one night in Prapat.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.4 CAR

In Indonesia, cars are driven on the left lane!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.5 BECAK AND TAXI

Becaks are the main form of transportiation within cities. A ride should
cost about INR 1000, but you will have to bargain.

There are two types of becaks, one with a bike and the other motorized,
having exchanged the bike by a motorcycle.

A ride in a taxi is INR 1200 local price.

Often, you will be bothered by a lot of becak or taxi drivers where you
want to go. Just keep on walking, smile, and answer back "jalan, jalan"
(meaning somehing like "just walking" or "catching the wind".)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.6 TREKKING

[Yet to be filled.]

**************************************************************************

3. PLACES

BANDA ACEH

Situated at the north tip of Sumatra, this city of 75000 is the capital of
the Special Region of Aceh. This is the center of Islamic activity, with
an active group of rebels, Aceh Merdeka (Free Aceh).

Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman (Great Mosque)
Built by the Dutch in 1879 to replace the old one they had destroyed
during the Aceh Wars in 1873, the black-domed and white-walled mosque is a
center of peace and quite. It is open to non-Muslims on Monday to Sunday
from 7:00 to 10:00 and 13:30 to 16:00.

Gunungan
In the southern part of the city is this small palace with a lovely
enclosed pleasure garden. Legend has it that in the 17th century Sultan
Iskandar Mudah built it for one of his queens who wanted to take a stroll
from time to time.

Aceh Museum
South-east of the Great Mosque is a small museum with a lot of local
artefacts but little information. It is open on Tuesday to Thursday from
8:30 to 13:30 and 14:30 to 18:00 and Friday and Saturday from 8:30 to
12:00.

Pasar Ikan (Fish Market)
In the morning, this market is bristling with activity.


Accommodation

The cheapest place to stay is the Losmen Rasasayang at Jalan Cut Mutia 26

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDAN

This city of more than 2 million is located on the north-east coast of
Sumatra. It is the main gateway to and from Sumatra.

Mesjid Raya (Grand Mosque)
Designed by a Dutch architect, the stately building was built in 1906 by
the Sultan Makmun Al-Rasyid. It is truly international, with 'Marocco'
style, the marble from Italy, the stained-glass windows from China and the
chandelier from Amsterdam. There is no admission, but a donation is
expected.


Transportation

To get into town from the airport, there are taxis with a fixed price of
USD 2.50.


Accommodation

Irama, Jalan Palang Merah 112-S, is a friendly palce with lots of good
information.

Sarah Guesthouse, Jl Pertama 10, is friendly and has a lot of information.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
LAKE TOBA

Lake Toba is the biggest lake in South-East-Asia. It is on 600 m and has a
depth of 523 m. There was a waterfall at one end, but it has been turned
into a power staion.

The water is excellent for swimming, with a constant 25 C.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
SAMOSIR ISLAND

Samosir Island, an island in Lake Toba, is a good place to get a rest. The
main place for tourists is Tuk-Tuk peninsula.


Accommodation

There are more hotels than tourists on Tuk-Tuk peninsula. Many are
directly at the shore and the boats will drop you directly at the door
step of the hotel.

Starting from south to north, the ones directly at the shore are:
Linda, Duma Sari Hotel, Elsina, Carolina, Sidita, Silintong Hotel, Rumba,
Mata Hari, Hisar's, Marroan, Romlan, Rodeo, Ambaroba, Toledo Inn, Anju
Cottages, Samosir, Toledo Inn II, Reggae, Abadi, Sony's, Tony,
Christina's, Hogi's, Sony, Nina, Mas.

Excellent value for money is Mas, with rooms from INR 4000 to INR 12000.
They also have an excellent restaurant and a laundry service.

Carolina's Cottages is a group of very fancy, but real Batak cottages.
They have a real flush toilet, stellite TV, and there is a good resturant.
It is directly on the beack and has a diving board. They cost INR 17500
for a cottage.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRAPAT

Prapat is a nice, touristy town at the shore of Lake Toba. It is also the
gateway to Samosir Island.


Accommodation



--------------------------------------------------------------------------
NIAS ISLAND

Located 110 km east of Sumatra, the island has a length of 125 km and is
40 km wide. Some 500'000 people live on that island, divided into three
different regions with differences in language and culture. The most
interesting villages are found in the south.

The other reason to visit Nias is its excellent surf on Lagundi Bay in the
south.

Lately, Nias Island has made itself a name as a place for tricksters and
thiefs. Be careful with your belongings.

GUNUNGSITOLI

The capital of the island lies on the east coast. The town itself doestn't
offer much to see, but there are nice walks in the surrounding area, where
the typical northern style houses can be seen.


Accommodation

Ketilang is the cheapest place in town.

Wisma Soliga is cheap as well, very clean and friendly with helpful
people. It has also a Chinese restaurant.


TELUKDALAN

The second biggest town on Nias, it is the center of the south. It is an
excellent base to visit the traditional South Nias villages.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
BUKITTINGGI

Bukittinggi is one of the most beautiful places in Sumatra. Located in the
heartland of the formerly maternalistic Minangkabao people and surrounded
by several volcanoes, there are numerous possibilities for excursions to
surrounding sights.

Central Market
If you look for something, it most likely will be sold at some stall or
other, you just have to find it in this huge market. The more interesting
days are Wednesday and Saturday when a lot Minangkabau people from
surrounding villages come to town to sell their goods. Of course, these
are also the days when prices are a bit higher than usual.

Clock Tower
Just south of the market is a strange clock tower built by the Dutch in
1827.

Fort de Kock
In the northern part on top of the hill is Fort Kock. It was built in 1825
by the Dutch during the Padri Wars. There is little to see, except a moat
and a couple of rusty cannons, but it is a peaceful place to get away from
the rahter noisy town. Entrance is for both, Fort de Kock and the Zoo.

Zoo
On the other hill, accross the main street of Fort de Kock is the Zoo. It
is not in excellent condition, but there are some interesting species of
animals to see. There is also a traditional Minangkabao house in the style
of the King's palace which includes a museum. Recommended. Entrance is for
both, the zoo and Fort de Kock.


Getting around

There are motorbikes to rent for INR 15000 and for INR 20000 per day.

It is also possible to rent mountainbikes.

Within Bukittinggi, the best way to get around is to either walk (it's so
small) or to take one of the shared minibusses (called Bemos).


Tours

The best way to explore the surroundings of Bukittinggi is to go on one of
the tours provided by the many travel agencies. There is every imaginable
tour possible, so following is only a list of the most commonly done ones.

A one day tour to the center of the Minangkabaus, the Harau Valley or to
Lake Minanjau costs INR 22500.

Trekking costs USD 20 per day. Typical destinations are Lake Maninjao
(3 days), Harau Valley (4 days), Equator Trek (3 days), Kubu (5 days), or
one of the surrounding volcanoes.

A back-to-nature trip (where the Muslim guides enjoy photographing Western
women wearing only a woven mini skirt) to Siberut island takes either
6 day (USD 120) or 10 days (USD 150). Note that it takes about one to two
days to get there and the same time to get back.


Accommodation

The Tropic Hotel is not directly at the main road and thus very quiet.
They have rooms from INR 7000 to INR 12000. The manager, Eddie, speaks
very good English and is very friendly.


Restaurants

Valentine, just next door of the Tropic Hotel has good, cheap food. The
woman running the cafe also does cheap laundry service.

At the main road (Jalan Jend A. Yani), there are many small restaurants.
Not recommended are the Coffee House and the Three Tables Coffee House.
Good food and friendly service is available at the Under The Bridge Coffee
House. There you also have the possibility to eat without beeing hasseled
all the time.

On 58, Jalan Jend A. Yani is an excellent, but crowded Chinese, the Mona
Lisa. It is not exactly cheap, though.

Further up Jalan Jend A. Yani, towards the Clock Tower is a KFC. Very
expensive.

Just next door to the KFC is a small traditional Indonesian restaurant.
The people there are very freindly, the food is excellent and very cheap.
Absolutely recommended.

Near the market, there are many good foodstalls.

On the other side of the KFC is another Chinese.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PADANG

Padang is not really much, a busy, dirty town. If you arrive at Padang
airport, the best thing is to get on directly to Bukittinggi.

The taxi from the airport to the town costs INR 10000, to Bukittinggi they
ask INR 60000.

If you walk out of the airport and to the right up to the main road (about
200 m), you'll be able to flag down one of the frequent busses. The bus to
Bukittinggi takes 2 h and costs INR 2000.

There is a possibility to change money at the airport, but sometimes they
run out of money and you'll have to wait for a couple of minutes until
they get new.

There are several cheap restaurants right at the airport. Recommended is
the one in the middle (run by two or three very nice ladies.)

**************************************************************************

4. LITERATURE

4.1 GUIDEBOOKS

Indonesia, Malaysia & Singapore Handbook. Trade & Travel Handbooks,
ISBN 0-900751-66-5. Passport Books (North America), ISBN 0-8442-8886-1.
Fourth edition, 1996
With more than 1300 pages, it is a very detailed and valuable source of
information.

Indonesia - A Travel Survival Kit. Peter Turner et al. Lonely Planet.
Over 1000 pages.

Indonesia Handbook. Bill Dalton. Moon Publications.
One of the classics, the current edition (6th) is from August 1995 and
has about 1300 pages and 265 maps.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4.2 TRAVELLERS TALES


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4.3 LANGUAGE


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4.4 CULTURE


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4.5 HISTORICAL/POLITICAL

Stahl, Sabine/Ulrich Mihr (Hrsg.) Die Krallen der Tiger und Drachen.
Wirtschaftsboom und Selbstbewusstsein in Asien. Droemer Verlag 1995. An
excellent book about the current political and economical developments
in Asia.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4.6 INTERNET

The newest version of this guide is available on WWW at
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/sumatra/sumatra.htm

An archive with many tips and a lot of stories is
ftp://ftp.cc.umanitoba.ca/pub/rec-travel

**************************************************************************

A. CONTRIBUTORS

I have been able to include a lot of information from other people and
sources. Where it is necessary to do so, I put the author in front of the
paragraph, mostly so when personal experiences/feelings are important.
Whenever possible I tried to contact the author of the information to get
permission and I include his/her e-mail address for reference.

Tris Swan                  

**************************************************************************

The homepage of the Internet Travel Guides is at
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm

Please send your comments, suggestions and contributions to the address
below. For questions, please see my note in the introduction.

e-mail:peter.geiser@student.unisg.ch

Peter M. Geiser
Seeblickstr. 10
9010 St. Gallen
Switzerland

**************************************************************************
