Archive-name: travel/cambodia-guide/part1
Posting-Frequency: monthly

                                 CAMBODIA

                         The Internet Travel Guide

                              Peter M. Geiser


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Contents
 
 Introduction
 Copyright (c) 1995, 1996

 1. General Overview
 1.1 Geographical Information
 1.2 Climate
 1.3 People
 1.4 Events
 1.5 Visa
 1.6 Embassies
 1.7 Border Crossing
 1.8 Money
 1.9 Health
 1.10 Safety

 2. Transportation
 2.1 Flying
 2.2 Train
 2.3 Boat
 2.4 Cars
 2.5 Moto Taxi

 3. Places
     Phnom Penh
     Killing Fields
     Tonle Bati
     Kompong Saom (Sihanoukville)
     Siem Reap
     Angkor Wat
     Batdambang

 4. Literature
 4.1 Guidebooks
 4.2 Travellers Tales
 4.3 Historical/Political Books
 4.4 Movies
 4.5 Internet

 A. Contributors

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The Internet Travel Guide
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm
Copyright (c) 1995, 1996 Peter M. Geiser
Peter.Geiser@student.unisg.ch

Last change 17. September 1996.
Updates: FAQ: monthly, HTML: more often

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INTRODUCTION

The main objective of this FAQ is to provide the reader with the newest
travel information available, like what is the current situation on visa,
where to stay and what prices are reasonable, etc. It is not a guide to
the Cambodian culture or history (although I started to include some
information about those subjects as well), for these non-changing facts
are much more pleasanlty presented in many good books (see the list in
section 4 in this FAQ). It is also not intended to be a political pamphlet
since politics is often a very opinionated subject. However, I started to
include some political facts where I felt it was appropriate.

Remember: Things change very fast, so by the time you get to Cambodia the
information in this FAQ may be outdated. If you encounter this, please
bear with me. Instead of being upset, rather share your experiences with
other people on the net. The next tourist will thank you if he or she can
rely on your new information. Also, if you find time during your travels
to write a postcard or a letter to me, I would greatly apreciate it.

Some paragraphs are led by the name of the author in brackets. This
doesn't mean that these are their only contributions, but rather that in
that case I chose to leave the words as the author wrote them, adding a
more personal note to the FAQ.


Answering questions

There are many people who send mail to ask me some questions. As much as
I like to answer as many questions as possible, my time is limited. I do
this work in my spare time, so I frequently answer the questions only
after a couple of days (or even weeks if I'm away for a while.) It also
happens that I cannot return an e-mail due to an invalid e-mail address.
Please be careful to include a valid e-mail address, or then ask me to
post the answer in rec.travel.asia.

This quide lives by being up-to-date. Since I cannot travel all the time,
I am glad to receive suggestions, contributions and comments. Any addition
is useful, regardless of the size.

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COPYRIGHT NOTICE

In accordance with the Berne convention, this document is copyrighted
worldwide. The information provided within this document is the property
of the original authors. The author especially reserves the right to the
exclusive use of the term "The Internet Travel Guide".

This document or parts thereof may NOT be sold for profit or included in
any commercial documents (e. g. books, esp. guide books, magazines,
CD-ROMs, WWW-pages, the Microsoft Network or any other form) without the
prior written permission of the copyright holder. This permission is valid
exactly for the agreed version (or if no version was stated at the
published version on the date of the agreement) at the time the permission
was granted; it does not cover future or any other versions. However,
following the common practice of the Internet, this document may be freely
redistributed without any modification whatsoever, including this
copyright notice.

If you as the reader has paid to get this document, please let me know. As
much as I would like I cannot give you back your money, but I can try to
put an end to the illegal stealing of other people's work.

**************************************************************************

The Internet Travel Guide
Copyright (c) 1995, 1996
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm

Peter M. Geiser
Seeblickstr. 10
9010 St. Gallen
Switzerland

Peter.Geiser@student.unisg.ch

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1. GENERAL OVERVIEW

1.1 GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION

Area          181'040 km2
Capital       Phnom Penh
Borders       Vietnam (1228 km), Laos (541 km) and Thailand (803 km)
              coastline 443 km (without islands)
Highest point Mt. Aoral, 1771 m
Terrain       mostly low, flat plains, with mountains in the north and
              southwest

Time          GMT plus seven hours

Measures      Metric
Electricity   220 V, 50 Hz
International telephone code ++855

In the Web-version of the Internet Travel Guide at
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser there would be a map right here.

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1.2 CLIMATE

The climate in Cambodia varies greatly over the year. The rainy, monsoon
season lasts from May to October. From December to March is the dry
season. In spite of these differences the seasonal variations in
temperature are small.

Phnom Penh

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec

 Air    C     26   27   29   30   29   28   27   28   27   27   27   26
        F     79   81   84   83   84   82   81   82   81   81   81   79

 days rain     1    1    2    6   14   15   16   16   19   17    9    4

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1.3 PEOPLE

Population     10.26 mio (est. July 1994) (annual growth rate 2.87%)
               90% Khmer, 5% Vietnamese, 1% Chinese, some Chams and Malay
Language       Khmer, English and French
Script         Modern variant of the old Khmer script, which in turn
               originated 1700 years ago from the Bhrami script of India.
Religion       95% Buddhist, some Muslim and animist

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1.4 EVENTS

April/May: Bonn Chroat Preah Nongkoal
The Royal Ploughing ceremony, or the opening of the Sacred Furrow, is the
first of the traditional agrarian festivals. In times past, on an
auspicious day determined by palace astrologists, the King traced the
first furrows in the Capital's sacred rice field, thus inaugurating the
ploughing season. Today, the ritual is performed by a man, King of Meakh,
who leads the yoke and plough, followed by a woman, Queen Me Hour, who
sows seeds. After thrice circling the ricefield, the procession stops at a
chapel where Brahmins invoke the protection of the Gods. The sacred cows
are unharnessed and guided to seven silver trays containg rice, corn,
bean, and other edibles. Based on their choice, predictions are made for
the coming year. If they choose the cereals, harvest will be good. If they
eat herbs, cattle diseases are to be feared. If they drink water, rain
will be abundant and peace will reign; but if they drink alcohol, trouble
will break out in the Kingdom.

13 April: Bonn Chaul Chhnam
The New Year's Festival spans three days following the end of the harvest
season. Khmers clean and decorate their houses with an altar for offerings
to the Tevoda of the coming year. They also visit the temple with
offerings. Then they play traditional games such as Angkunh, Chaol
Chhoung, Leak Kansaeng, and tug of war.

September: Bonn Dak Ben and Bonn Phchum Ben
Spirits Commemoration Festival is held for the spirits of the dead. Bonn
Dak Ben - the offering of food to the monks - lasts for 15 days. The 15th
day of the ceremony - the full oon - is called Bonn Pchum Ben, the
collection of the bens (offerings). During this celebration, if departed
souls do not find their family making offerings at a wat, it is believed
that the soul is cursed and will bother the descendent throughout the
year.

October: Bonn Kathen
This religious festival lasts for 29 days. The monks come out of their
retreat. Town and country folks march in a procession to the wat, where
the monks are waiting to change their old saffron robes for the new ones
offered during the festival. The ceremony brings spiritual merit to both
lay people and the monks.

9 November: Independence Day
The 9th of November 1953 is the date Cambodia achieved independence from
France. The occasion is marked each year by a gala parade in front of the
Royal Palace, which includes floats, marching bands and other spectacles
highlighting the nation's achievements.

November: Bonn Om Tuk
The three-day Water Festival celebrates the river's changing flow by
watching a festive cavalcade of competitive boat races. The finish line
symbolizes a gate that retains the water. Once the line is cut, water
flows down the Mekong, commencing the fishing season. Other traditional
ceremonies are the midnight meals of pounded rice and full moon
celebration, with lighted flotillas and fireworks in the evening.

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1.5 VISA

A visa is available at the airport of Phnom Penh for USD 20. It is valid
for one month. Have two passport photos ready.

If you enter the country by land (e.g. from Vietnam), make sure you
already have a visa. You will not get one at the border.

(Anna, Mar 96) Get a business visa, instead of a tourist visa. They are the 
same price and no extra paperwork. A business visa can be extended in
Phnom Penh but a tourist visa cannot.

Extensions to a visa are issued in-country by the Ministry of National
Security.

In Germany, you get the visa from
  Buero fuer den Schutz der Interessen Kambodschas
  Arnold-Zweig-Str. 10
  D-13189 Berlin
  Tel 030-4711853
They are friendly and quick. The visa should take about one week.

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1.6 EMBASSIES

CAMBODIAN EMBASSIES ABROAD

Bulgaria
Sophia, Tel 3592757135, Fax 3592754009

Cuba
Havana, Tel/Fax 537336400

Czech Republic
Prague, Tel 422352603, Fax 422351078

France
4 Rue Adolphe Yvon, 75016 Paris, Tel (1) 4503 4720, Fax (1) 4503 4740

Germany
Berlin, Tel/Fax 49304711853

Hungary
Budapest Tel 3611551128, Fax 3611552376

India
New Dehli, Tel 91116423782, Fax 91116425363

Laos
Thanon Saphan Thong Neua, Vientiane, Tel 314952, 312584

Russian Federation
Moscow, Tel 70952012710, Fax 70952017668

Thailand
Bangkok, Tel/Fax 6622943528

USA
New York, Tel 1718830770, Fax 17188979396
Washington DC, Tel (202) 726-8268, Fax (202) 726-8381

Vietnam
Embassy    71 Tran Hung Dao St., Hanoi, Tel 53788
           office hours: Mo-Sa 8-11, 14-16
Consulate  41 Phung Khae Khon St., Ho Chi Minh City, Tel 92751 and
           92744, office hours: Mo-Sa 8-11, 14-16


FOREIGN EMBASSIES IN CAMBODIA

Australia
Villa II, Street #254, Chartaumuk daun Penh District, Phnom Penh

Canada
Villa II, Street #254, Chartaumuk daun Penh District, Phnom Penh,
Tel (23) 26000 (Gordon Longmuir), Fax (23) 26003

Great Britain
29, 75th Street, Phnom Penh, Tel (23) 27124

India
777, Moha Vithei Preah Monivong (formerly Achar Mean), Phnom Penh,
Tel. 25981, 25582. Fax 64489, 26212.

Laos
15-17 Thanon Keomani, Phnom Penh, Tel (23) 26441, Fax (23) 85523, 26441

USA
27 EO Street 240, Box P, APO AP 96546, Phnom Penh, 
Tel (23) 26436, (23) 26438, Fax  (23) 26437

Vietnam
Son Ngoc Minh area, Phnom Penh, Tel (23) 25481

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1.7 BORDER CROSSING

Also look at the report done by George in the section on safety.

Thailand

There are several points for crossing the border between Thailand and
Cambodia. However, none of them is quite safe.

Currently (Mar 96), Aranyaprathet is closed, but there are talks of
reopening it again. Apart from the Khmer Rouge sending rockets into
Sisophon from time to time, there are reports of government troups asking
you for money in a very convicing way by putting their guns to your head.
Try this road only in an official convoy.

(Mar 96) Although the Cambodian side of the border is open, the Thai side
is not. But if you are careful, it is possible to cross at Trat, on the
coast near Ko Chang. This border crossing is not yet legal! Do not go to
the Thai immigration office at Khlong Yai, and continue directly to Ban
Hat Lek, the last town on the Thai side. Keep yourself well hidden in the
truck, since there are many military checkpoints. It is also possible to
take a boat from Ban Hat Lek to Kompong Saom.



Vietnam

The only legal way to cross between Cambodia and Vietnam is at Moc Bai.
There are daily bus services between Vietnam (Saigon) and Phnom Penh. The
fare from Saigon is USD 10.

If you want to go from Phnom Penh, pick up a shared taxi from the far side
of the Japanese Bridge. After the border, you'll find plenty of cars to
hire to Ho Chi Minh City.

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1.8 MONEY

The currency is the Cambodian riel (KHR). 1 new riel equals 100 sen.

The going exchange rate is around 2500 KHR to 1 USD (Mar 1996)
(Historical development: 2300 in Jun 1995, 2800 in Sep 1994, 2390 in Dec
1993, 2800 in Sep 1992, 500 in Dec 1991, 560 in 1990, 159 in 1988, and 100
in 1987)

The USD is widely used in Cambodia. It actually serves as a second
currency that is more readily accepted.


BANKS

The Foreign Trade Bank of Cambodia, 24 Norodom Boulevard, Phnom Penh,
Tel. (23) 22466, cashes cheques.

The Bangkok Bank, 26 Norodom Boulevard, Phnom Penh, Tel. (23) 26593,
accepts cheques and Visa credit card.

(Anna, Mar 96) The bank _next to_ Bangkok Bank on Norodom Boulevard, Phnom
Penh will change USD travellers cheques into Riel for no commission.

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1.9 HEALTH

This section only gives some small advice. You should certainly go to a
doctor to get the best possible advice, especially on vaccinations (which
may change over time).

Medical facilities are not widely available in Cambodia. If you have some
serious trouble with your health, consider leaving the country (e.g. to
Bangkok).

Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment.

If you need some medicine, bring enough with you. It is also recommended
to bring one or two clean needles in case of an emergency.

Threats: AIDS, Malaria, Bilharzia (Schistosomiasis), Japanese B
Encephalitis, rabies, hepatitis, dengue fever, typhoid and tuberculosis.

Malaria
Malaria (from French 'mal air', bad air) is an infection of the blood
caused by the bite of moscitoes (Anopheles). The decay of the red blood
cells causes fever and eventually a lack of oxygen which can, in case of a
malaria cerebral, cause brain damage. Depending on the type of malaria
these fever shocks appear every three (malaria tertiana) or four (malaria
quartana). Death rate of malaria is less than 1%.
There have been many discussions on how to best deal with it and even
the doctors have not yet agreed on a single opinion.
There are two possibilities for prohylaxis. For a short stay (less than
one month) in a malaria endangered region, prophylaxis with Lariam, as
described by doctors, is recommended. This gives nearly 100% protection.
For longer trips, Lariam should not be used, since there are too many side
effects (such as liver problems). If you want to use a prophylctics at
all, use one on Chloroquin (several different brands) basis. Although
protection is only about 50 - 70%, it still reduces the effects of an
actual infection. 
The most important thing about malaria is to recognise it as such. Every
little health center with a microscope can make a reliable diagnose. If
you feel sick, have a check done. In case of a negative result, and you
keep feeling sick, then have the check re-done every three days. Use your
own, clean blood-sampling needles.
A special danger causes a malaria that develops at the same time as a flue
or a pneumonia, since it is often recognised too late.
Carry a treatment package with you (e.g. Lariam or Halfon) and use it
according to the instructions on the package slip once malaria has beed
diagnosed. Do visit a doctor! Local treatments (mainly Cloroquine) are
made for the local population which is semi-immunised. These treatments
are often too weak for Western people. Somebody taking Lariam treatment
should always be watched by another person, because of the side-effects
(especially mental problems, depressions, nightmares, and higher
photo-sensitivity of the skin. There is even a small danger of suicide!) 
However, the most effective way to prevent malaria are mosquitoe repellant
(possibly with at least 20% DEET, or citronella.) Since mosquitoes are
only active after sundown and before sunset, make sure you wear clothes
that cover the skin and use a good mosquitoe net.
Malaria can break out up to three month after leaving the endangered
region. Take this into account if you become sick within this time and
have a malaria test made.

Bilharzia (schistosomiasis)
This parasitic infection is caught by contact with river water. You do
not have to drink the water or swim in the river, just getting wet may
be enough. The microscopic parasites in the water burrow into your skin
and cause a damage to the liver and other organs. It is a chronic
debilitation disease. The most dangerous region is south of Pakse.

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1.10 SAFETY

There are still many areas of instability. Many parts of Cambodia,
especially the border region to Vietnam, are heavily mined. The Khmer
Rouge (and other bandits with only monetary instead of political
interests) from time to time grab tourists straying from the main paths
in an attempt to gain international support both in political and
monetary form. Unfortunately, the police and armed military guards also
asks for money, be it to let you pass or for some form of protection.

The leader of the Khmer Rouge, Pol Pot had been reported to have died of
malaria on 6. June 1996. However, recent reports state that he is still
alive.

Many embassies advise foreigners not to go out after 19 h, unless by car.

I consider it as a must to gain information about the current situation in
Phnom Penh at your embassy or the U.S. embassy. The noticeboard of the 
Capitol Hotel also has the latest horror stories. Although it is unlikely
that anything happens to you, if you are the unlucky one to get taken
hostage you would probably wish you would have been more careful.

Southern Cambodia, the border region to Thailand, the Cardamon mountains,
the north eastern part and the area around Siem Reap (Angkor Wat) are
currently the biggest problems. Crossing the borders, except from Moc Bai
in Vietnam, is not recomended.

In September 1996, the Khmer Rouge handed over the remains of a 32 year
old German missing since 1994. He had been executed while crossing to
Thailand in the Phnom Malai area.

In spring 1996, the Khmer Rouge kidnapped a British mine clearing expert
from a mine clearing site about 20 km from Angkor. In August 1996, it was
reported that he had been executed.

At the beginning of July 1996 a French woman was raped and robbed.

On 18. June 1996, a young German couple was attacked with grenades and
gunfire on highway 5 between Phnom Penh and Battambang. Luckily, they
could be taken to a hospital by foreign aid workers.

On 16. June 1996, between 70 and 80 saw mill workers have been take
hostages by the Khmer Rouge in the southern province of Kampot. The next
day, 14 of them were released to fetch rice.

On 11 April 1996, an unspecified number (guessed by witnesses to be as
high as 30) of civilians have been kidnapped from the popular Tuk Chou
waterfall in Kampong province, 150 km southwest of Phnom Penh. At 10 am,
Khmer Rouge guerillias atacked government troups and laid fire to cottages
and vehicles.

In January 1995 an American professor has been killed just north of Angkor
Wat on her way to Banteay Srei.
Her husband, Jim Shadden writes:
I am the husband of the professor from the University of Texas who was
killed in the bandits' attack on Jan. 15, 1995. Although initial reports
stated that we were part of a caravan (as echoed in your Internet Travel
Guide), we were traveling alone in a tourist van with armed police escort.
There was a similar tourist van approximately 500 metres ahead of ours at
one point on the road to Bantey Srei.
I believe that we drove up on an attack on a police outpost/marketplace
and that it was the action of our armed guard that caused our van to stop.
When the policeman fired on the attackers, they directed their fire on the
van. The driver, guard, our guide, and an additional civilian they had
picked up at another police checkpoint, all tried to run away. Our guide
was killed in that attempt. My wife bled to death of a number of injuries.
I barely escaped, although I did get to the driver's seat and started the
van before I noticed what turned out to be the first of a rescue party
outside the van. I had unbelievably good luck after that a Dutch doctor
from UNICEF at the hospital in Siem Reap District, then visiting staff
from the US Embassy in Phnom Penh! I would not have survived without their
help.

In April 1994, three tourists have been kidnapped at a roadblock on
National Route 4, the main route to the coast.
Some time later three burnt corpses have been found. They could only be
identified as belonging to Caucasians (so were most probably these three
tourists.)

In March 1994, an employee of an international relief organisation was
abducted in Kampot Province. She was later released.


An excellent review has been done by George Moore.

        95 Oct 29

        Cambodia's land border crossings with Vietnam

        This is a quick review for anyone who is interested. Yes, 
these are dangerous spots, due to smuggling mostly. By all means, 
get to Phnom Penh and Seam Reap to see the ruins at Angkor 
(government troops guard the main routes), but don't get off
he beaten path unless you are ready for real-time Cambodia.

        The border with Vietnam is regularly crossed by local people, 
because their families live on both sides, but foreigners can 
legally cross at Moc Bai only, in Hwy 1. That trip is the easiest 
thing in the world, so I won't bother describing it. While it is not 
legally possible for foreigners to cross elsewhere, the following 
spots do make for some interesting trips in Cambodia.

        Ha Tien and Chau Doc, to the south of Moc Bai, are 
traditional crossing spots, and there are lots of less traditional 
spots too (on Hwy 2 or on the east bank of the Mekong), but the 
Cambodian side of the border here is "bandit" country, which 
means heavy smuggling and generalized lawlessness. On any trip 
around here, get in the habit of stopping regularly to ask the 
locals what is happening on the road ahead. Locals do this too.

        Just west of Ha Tien is the Cambodian railway town called 
Kampong Thrach, where three foreigners were killed during a train 
ambush recently. I was in Kampot and Kep in February or March of 
1994 and toured the countryside on a motorbike. I didn't see a 
soldier anywhere (except at night in the bars in Kampot, of 
course!), but that's just the problem:  when you don't see any 
government soldiers around, it means that they are laying low, 
which means that you are in bad guy territory. In both Kep and 
Kampot, the night belongs to the "bandits". 

        The trip down Hwy 3 from Phnom Penh to Kampot is a breeze 
however, and Kampot is okay. Just don't go outside the town at 
night, and think twice about staying overnight in Kep. A local guy 
tried to open a hotel there last year but was kidnapped when he 
couldn't pay up... No word from him since, to my knowledge. So it 
goes in this area!

        The VN border guards will not let you cross legally at Ha 
Tien, but I have heard that a hardy foreigner or two has crossed 
illegally. This would be the preferred crossing point for most 
foreigners if the local governments ever get their acts together 
(unlikely...). The road between Ha Tien and Kampong Thrach is bad 
and I must underline again that this not a safe area. Daylight 
hours are one thing, but the night hours... As with every off the 
beaten path trip in Cambodia, plan on getting into a safe place to 
sleep by 3pm in the afternoon. This is the hour when traditional 
Cambodian transport comes to a halt.

        Hwy 2 as far as Takeo has been rebuilt now (1995). A breeze. 
There is one hotel in Takeo, and some great ruins at Angkor Borei 
just north of town. I don't know what Hwy 2 looks like south of 
Takeo, but maps show that the road goes all the way to the border. 
The ruins at Angkor Borei are just past the KM 56 marker on the 
Hwy 2. It's another 5km on a dirt road in the countryside, but 
it's a relatively safe area. Tourists are encouraged to visit. I 
tried to go from Angkor Borei to the Bassac River but turned back 
"because the road ahead is full of bandits". Maybe tomorrow is OK.

        What the maps do not show is the new road that goes south out 
of Phnom Penh via Ta Khmau along the west bank of the Bassac 
River. I've been about 45km down that road, but didn't have time 
to go all the way to the border. The locals assured me however 
that the road is good all the way, and I can recommend this road 
as a great day trip out of Phnom Penh. Lots of local color and 
very friendly people. Don't forget your phrase book! It's best to 
go with one of the moto-taxi drivers who hang out in front of the 
Capitol Restaurant in Phnom Penh. They can translate for you.

        The border crossing at Chau Doc is closed to Vietnamese boat 
people (you'll see them everywhere in Cambodia), but foreigners 
may be able to cross. Don't count on it though. Leave Phnom Penh 
at the crack of dawn so that you will have time to get back if you 
can't cross. If you get stuck at the border, sleep with the 
policemen, and don't forget to go slow with the whiskey! When 
Cambodian police or army guys start drinking, there is no end.

        Everyone who has been to Chau Doc recommends the place. It's 
the classic Vietnamese delta town, where everything is done by 
boat. Don't try to cross the border by boat, but do look for a 
boat ride between Chau Doc and Long Xuyen or Can Tho. From Chau 
Doc, the whole of the Vietnamese delta is your oyster. Enjoy!

        Moc Bai is further north still. It's an easy trip between Ho 
Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh, but there is little to see other than 
the flatlands. There is a local bus which plys this route, but it's 
pure misery. It's better to take a share taxi (under 10 dollars on 
either side of the border). The only danger on this road is the 
crazy drivers, as is usual all over SE Asia.

        Coming from Phnom Penh, why not skip Ho Chi Minh City 
altogether? Nothing at all to see there. The main Ho Chi Minh - 
Tay Ninh road, Hwy 22, is 15km from Moc Bai at a nice town called Go 
Dau. Instead of turning right to go into Ho Chi Minh City, why not 
turn left for a trip to Tay Ninh to see the Cao Dai Temple? From 
there it should be possible to continue north into the Highlands via 
Song Be province. Hwy 14 goes north from there. 

        Vietnam's Hwy 22 goes all the way to the Cambodian border. It 
may be worth a look. Cambodians who live in Kampong Cham told me 
that they regularly make the 67km trip to the border, for "trade", 
and I have heard that many of the endentured Vietnamese 
prostitutes who work in Cambodia cross the border here. In other 
words, locals are crossing here, so you may be able to do so also.

        Further north still, in Vietnam's Song Be province, is the 
railhead at Loc Ninh. The Cambodian town called Snuol is on the 
other side of the border, but it is very unlikely that you will 
want to go there. Cambodia's Hwy 7 at Snuol is a no man's land. 
Cambodians traveling between Kampong Cham and Kratie take boats. A 
quick look at the map will tell you why. It is much faster too.

        Kratie is an interesting town, and easy to get to on one of 
the new speed boats (only 6 hours from Phnom Penh now!). I didn't 
notice until the day I left that there are many Khmer rouge 
defectors living in Kratie. They work on the logging operations. 
North of Kratie is a small Mekong river village town called 
Sambor, where there is a stupa much revered by the Cambodian 
people. King Sihanouk recently visited this town.

        The road is open between Kratie and Stung Treng, but there is 
very little traffic. I spent a whole day watching that road where it 
forks at Sandan, a very small village. I decided it was not worth 
the risk (only four taxis went by. The rest of it was fully armed 
logging trucks). In Cambodia, travelers constantly appraise the risk 
versus the reward. There is nothing in particular to see between 
Kratie and Stung Treng, so why take the risk?

        When UNTAC was in Cambodia in 1992 and 1993, they opened all 
the border points. A couple of people consequently got lucky and 
crossed Cambodian border into Laos at Phumi Kampong Sratau, up the 
river from Stung Treng. This year, I went south on the Lao side of 
the border as far as Champassak, but didn't bother going further:  
all of the locals in Champassak refused to go further south, even 
the fishermen. Earlier this year (1995), a large group of Khmer 
rouge moved to the Cambodian side of the border near the Mekong 
River, and they are apparently still there. Lao civilians are afraid 
of them, and I must agree. Don't bother talking with a Lao soldier 
about such a trip, because he will most likely arrest you on the 
spot and send you back to Vientiane. On the Cambodian side of the 
border here, you are most definitely on your own.

        Before the 2nd World War, the old French road was between 
Champassak and Kampong Thom. This road still shows on modern maps, 
but it is off limits. Kampong Thom has been a critical place in the 
current Cambodian civil war for many years, and anywhere between 
Kampong Thom and the Lao border is most definitely bad territory. 
You will never make it even to Kampong Thom unless you go with a 
Cambodian military helicopter or something.

        East of Stung Treng is Cambodia's Ratanakiri province. Lumphat 
is the provincial capital. You can safely fly there from Phnom Penh 
(two or three times a week), but there is little to see unless you 
want to organize a serious expedition (expensive!, and there is a 
lot of malaria). A friend of mine was up there this year. He toured 
around the main roads on a motorbike, but he didn't dare go near the 
border crossing with Vietnam on Hwy 19, on the way to Pleiku. This 
is the land of illegal timber companies par excellence. During the 
war, this was the main route for NVA soldiers coming down the Ho Chi 
Minh Trail and it is still today a very sensitive military area. Fly 
to Lumphat and tour around on the main roads, and do a "safari" if 
you have lots of cash, but don't plan on crossing the border into 
Vietnam on Hwy 19.

        Finally, for anyone unfamiliar with Cambodia, get in the habit 
of carrying lots of cash in your various pockets. Ten dollars in 
local currency in one pocket, ten dollars in local currency in 
another pocket, et cetera. You do not want to open your bag to show 
all your money to anyone. Do it! Yes, sometimes it is better to pay.

        For the "El Cheapo" kids who think it may be cool to do such 
trips, think again. The local guys have no illusions:  if you can't 
pay, they simply kidnap you and ask your parents to pay, and they 
won't ask your parents for only a couple of USDollars either. The 
standard price for a foreigner these days is 50,000 dollars.

        And a final note:  throw your Ho Chi Minh t-shirt away! 
Cambodians hate the Vietnamese with a rare passion, and this 
includes any silly foreigner who likes Ho Chi Minh. Kids who wear 
these t-shirts are dead meat on the Cambodian side of the border.

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The homepage of the Internet Travel Guides is at
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm

Please send your comments, suggestions and contributions to the address
below. For questions, please see my note in the introduction.

e-mail:peter.geiser@student.unisg.ch

Peter M. Geiser
Seeblickstr. 10
9010 St. Gallen
Switzerland

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