Archive-name: travel/cambodia-guide/part2
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2. TRANSPORTATION

2.1 FLYING

Many people worry about safety conditions on flights in Cambodia. This may
have been so in earlier times, but today it is quite ok. Air France
officers are trainig the local pilots, and safety regulations have been
risen to international standards.

Royal Air Cambodge (since end of 1994 incorporating Kampuchea Airlines)
has an office Phnom Penh at 206 A, Norodom Blvd., Tel (18) 810647,
Fax (18) 810274


INTERNATIONAL

There are direct flights to Phnom Penh from Bangkok, Vientiane, Ho Chi
Minh City, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.

Airlines operating into Phnom Penh are Thai Airways International, Royal
Air Cambodge, Lao Aviation, Vietnam Airlines, Dragonair, Malaysian
Airlines and Silk Air.

The flight from Bangkok is about 2250 Baht.

There is an airport tax of USD 20 for international flights and USD 4 to
Siem Reap.


LOCAL

Royal Air Cambodge serve the following destinations within Cambodia:
Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Stung Treng, Ratanakiri, Battambang, Koh Kong and
Sihanoukville.

There are 5 filghts daily between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (USD 45 (?)
single or USD 110 return).
Flights are also available between Phnom Penh and Batdambang. Helicopters
serve Koh Kong and Kampong Saom (Sihanoukville).

Four days a week, on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, there are
flights from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville for USD 70 and to Koh Kong for
USD 50.

Notice: There is a weight limit of 10 kg on luggage for inland
flights. When flying try to leave some of your luggage at a hotel in
Phnom Penh, or try to bluff your way with hand baggage.

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2.2 TRAIN

There is only one train line in Cambodia. It goes from Kampong Saom
(Sihanoukville), south of Phnom Penh, via Phnom Penh and Batdambang to
Bangkok. From time to time it is blown up by the Khmer Rouge.

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2.3 BOAT

There are boats between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Fast Malaysian managed
boats take 4-5 hours in a small, uncomfortable boat for USD 25 and 6 hours
in a large, comfortable boat (compared to previously 12 or up to 24
hours.) Prices are USD 12 to 18. The Cambodian government has assigned
soldiers to guard these boats. The soldiers use the time on the boat to
take a snooze, but you can make interesting contacts if you hand out
cigarettes to them. If you are lucky they will ask you to join them in the
evening in Siem Reap when they tour the barrs and shoot the moon!
There are also slow boats. They should take 2 days during the wet season,
and 4 days during the dry.

One trip is first a four hour truck ride to the Tonle Sap, then four
hours by boat and finally half an hour on a truck to Siem Reap. These
fast boats easily outrun the slow pirate boats the Khmer Rouge use
(so far I have not heard of a tourist boat pirated.)

In Siem Reap, many boats have .5 calibre, belt-fed machine guns loaded and
ready on board! So, even the locals don't consider Tonle Sap to be safe.

The boats seem to go only to about 15 km towards Siem Reap, the rest has
to be made by truck, motorbikes or whatever transportation can be found.
The motorbikes should cost about 1000 - 2000 KHR. The drivers want to drop
you at a guest house they know, because they get a commission. You can
also try to get the ride for free in exchange for staying at 'their'
guest house.

One traveller also reported that the tourists were asked for money to
leave the boat. The boats also frequently break down. There are basically
two ways for it breaking down, one in the middle of the lake, an
uncomfortable situation with no compass, no safety equipment and no oars.
The other is actually much worse, being near the shore from where you get
shot at.

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2.4 CARS

It is possible to rent a car with a driver for USD 20 - 30. Always agree
on the price in advance.

There are many cars in Cambodia that originated in Thailand, having the
steering wheel on the right ("wrong") side of the car. You may need some
time to get used to it, and the front seat passenger has to be the
look-out for oncomming traffic.

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2.5 MOTO TAXI

A good way to see sights in the near vicinity is to go by moto taxi. It
usually costs USD 1 (actually, ex-pats pay only about 1000 to 1500 riels,
the USD 1 is the night fare.) Locals would pay only about 300 to 500 riels
for the same ride. If you venture out farther, you'll have to pay lunch
for the driver as well.

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3. PLACES

PHNOM PENH

The capital of Cambodia dates back to an event in the year 1327. It is
said that a rich widow named Don Penh found a tree with 5 buddhas in it.
She thus founded a pagoda, Wat Phnom Don Penh, The Monastery on the Hill
of Lady Penh. In 1434 the city founded some years earlier by King Ponhea
Yat was finished. In 1866 it became the capital.

There are two markets worth checking out: the Central Market and the
Russian Market. The latter is cheaper.

The Killing Field Museum (Tuol Sleng), a former school taken over in 1975
by the Khmer Rouge and turned into a torture chamber, is open to visitors.
Entrance fee is USD 2.

The entrance to Wat Preah Keo (Silver Pagoda) is USD 2.

The fare for a taxi from Phnom Penh's Pochentong International Airport is
about USD 5. If you walk the couple of meters to the main road, you'll be
able to get a ride on a motorbike for USD 1 to 2.


Accommodation

The Capitol Hotel offers dormitories for USD 3, singles for USD 4 and
doubles for USD 6 or 8. While is is the main backpacker hangout, it is on
a noisy intersection and not too nice.

The Narin's Guest house at Number 50, Street 125 is run by a friendly
family and charges USD 3 for a single and USD 5 for a double (Mar 96).

(Anna, Mar 96) Guest House No 9 on the south east corner of Boeng Kak
lake. Fondly known as Cloud No 9 for the ganja haze..., lovely sunsets,
less lovely mosquitos.

(Anna, Mar 96) Bert's Books and Guest House, 79 Sisowath. Meet Bert and
other resident expats to catch up on the local gossip in the coffee shop.
Good notice board.

Some other budget hotels are: Asia Hotel, La Paillote Hotel, What Phnom
Hotel.

Just behind the Mondop is a hotel with USD 15 rooms on the first floor. It
is clean, but a bit rundown.

The Pacific has rooms for USD 15 to 20. It is very noisy, with a Karaoke
bar on the first floor. They will try to charge you outrageous prices for
the drinks of the girls that they hassle you with.

The Tai Seng Hotel has rooms for USD 25.

The Hawaii Hotel near the Central Market has rooms for USD 33 per day.

The Bayon is USD 40. It is a bit north of the city, clean, friendly and
with good food.

Reportedly good security for a high price is available at City Villa Hotel
Appartment at No 394 & 396 EQ Street 93, Monivong Road, Beng Keng Kong 1
Cham Ca Mon District.

Generally, the medium-priced hotels, and also some of the expensive
places, double as brothels. This may appeal to some travellers, but it
certainly doesn't make for a good night's sleep.


Eating

In the evening, food stalls are put up at the riverside. Also on the
riverfront, about a kilometer from the Japanese bridge, are some excellent
authentic Cambodian resturants.

Good food can be obtained at the Dejavu.

Good steaks can be obtained at Long Beach (Preah Monivong).

Another good place is the large Chinese at the far side of Preah Monivong.

The two California's (at Preah Sihanoukand and at Sisowath) offer an
excellent South-East Asian menu.

Many travellers and expats hang out at the Heart of Darkness, a bar with a
pool table. Another favorite with expats is the Martini Pub.

The Irish Rover Bar at the corner of Preah Sihanouk Boulevard and Pasteur
Street is also very popular with aid workers and other ex-pats. The owner
was sent with the Irish UN contingent to watch the elections in 1993.

For western food and a wild time, there is Happy Nef's Pizza. Even better
is the Happy Herb.

The FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) on the riverside is open since 1993
and gives a colonial feeling with its high ceilings, slow fans and big
armchairs. It is the perfect place for a beer at sunset.

The rooftop garden on the Landmark Boulevard on the Norodom does a ladies'
night Fridays, where you get three drinks for the price of one. You can
order food from the ground-floor restaurant, as the buffet on the rooftop
is sometimes nice but sometimes pretentious. 

Twice a month at the Australian embassy there are beers on the verandah
for just one dollar a can.


Other

If you go on a tour or arrange transportation, deal directly with the
local operators. Especially bad reputation has Hanuman Travel.

(Mary) The gift shop at Wat Thanh in Phnom Penh deserves your money. It's
a coop that trains Cambodians disabled by landmines in various crafts,
some of which are sold at the gift shop. Small purses, bags, frames,
clothes, etc out of lovely silk.

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KILLING FIELDS

The Killing Fields are som 10 km outside of Phnom Penh, near Choeng Ek.
For a tour inquire at the Capitol Restaurant or rent a car for USD 20 a
day.

Entrance is generally USD 2, but it may be different, depending on the
guard, your face, the weather, and what else...

Some 8 km further south is the shooting range. For USD 5 you'll get 30
shots from several types of weapons.

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TONLE BATI

About 30 km south of Phnom Penh is Tonle Bati. Nearby is the Ta Prohm
Temple and the Yeah Pean Temple. This is a favourite spot for weekend
excursions of families who come here to picnic.

Although there has been a shrine since the 6th century, the oldest
buildings still visible date back to the 10th and 11th century. The
temples have been renovated several times, as recently as the 17th
century.

There is a nice legend associated with the Yeah Pean Temple, about 100 m
from the Ta Prohm Temple. A king of Angkor once fell in love with the
daughter of a fisherman, the beautiful Yeah Pean. Upon leaving he gave her
a ring. The child she was to bear him should be brought to Angkor with the
ring as identification. Obediently, Yeah Pean sent her son, named Prohm,
to Angkor where he received a warm welcome and the best education. Later,
Prohm was sent back to the province as governor. He looked well after the
province and built a temple after the one he had seen in Angkor, named
after him Ta Prohm. Newarby he erected the small Yeah Pean temple in
honour of his mother.

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KOMPONG SAOM (SIHANOUKVILLE)

Sihanoukville is on the coast near the border to Vietnam.

(Anna, Mar 96) Sunbathe on the municipal beach with no-one selling food,
drinks or massage ... Hire a motorbike and drive a few kilometers to find
a totally deserted beach ... Visit the English pub, the docks, the market,
the coral islands, Sam's restaurant by the beach ... discover that you
have been here for two weeks already.


Accommodation

The traveller hangout is the Mali Chenda Guest House. Rooms are USD 3 for
a single and USD 5 for a double. It is located up the hill behind Sam's
restaurant.

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SIEM REAP

Siem Reap is the town next to Angkor Wat. Its main purpose is to provide
accommodation and food and a convenient transport hub to the travellers to
Angkor Wat.

To get there from Phnom Penh, either take a plane, or a boat. Do not go by
land, it is not safe!

In the south of Siem Reap, near the Ceremonial Gate at the river, there is
a crocodile farm.

To move to and between the temples of Angkor, rent a bicycle (USD 1 per
day) or a motorbike with driever (USD 5 per day) (Mar 96).
(Mary) Some of the moto drivers are remarkably well informed about the
temples, and will know better than you do what route you should take. They
will have good suggestions on dropping you off on one side of a temple and
picking you up on another. When you get there and see how huge the temples
are, you will appreciate this. Be sure to give your driver the lunch hours
off--from around 12-2--so they can go back and eat with their families. In
the afternoon heat, you'll welcome the breeze from the moto ride to and
from town anyway.


Accommodation

There are many small guest houses starting at USD 2 per person (Mar 96.)

Guest House 265, Guest House 45 and Apsara Guest House are recommended by
Anna.

(Anna, Mar 96) Not recommended is Naga Guest House which charges only
USD 1 per person, but overcharges for food, has dirty bathrooms and tried
to rip me off.

The Free Dom Hotel has rooms from USD 10 to USD 25. The staff is friendly.

More up-market is the Bopha Angkor Hotel with rooms for USD 30.


Eating

A good place for a relaxing dinner is the Bayon Restaurant. Food is about
USD 2-3.

A popular restaurant is the Arun.

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ANGKOR WAT

What has become known as Angkor Wat is in fact a large area near Siem
Reap covering several square kilometers. The actual temple Angkor Wat is
only one of numerous others within this area. The temples in this area
have been built between the 6th and 13th century. Unfortunately, the
temples are in a very bad state and in need of extensive restauration.

There are extremely high entrance fees. It is maintained that the entrance
is justified by the high costs of rebuliding the temples, but some reports
say that this is not true. The temples are beeing restored by foreign aid.
All the money from entraces goes directly to the corrupt gevernment
officials and guards. Prices seem to vary, depending on who is 'selling'
the tickets to you.
Some examples:
USD 25 for 3 days
USD 10 general entrance fee, plus USD 10 to 15 per temple
USD 20 for 1 day, USD 40 for 3 days, and USD 60 for one week.

There seems to be a (or several) 'side' entrance where it sould be
possible to get in for much less money or even for free. It is the second
path to the left on the road parallel to the airport, leading directly to
Angkor Thom. On the other side are, towards Rulos, also small roads
leading into Angkor.

Of course, the guards are not stupid, and are finding these side entrances
as well. However, be careful when you explore unattended side entrances,
since many areas are occupied by Khmer Rouge, and the area is heavily
mined. A good indicator of the danger are the local kids. If they refuse
to go with you it's dangerous.

Yet another possibility is to get up very early in the morning and enter
the area before the guards show up.

There is another reason to get up ealy: (Mary) Getting to the temples at 8
instead of 9 makes a world of difference in staying one step ahead of the
tour buses.

There are guards wandering around asking to see your ticket. If you cannot
provide a valid ticket, you are asked to either leave or to pay.

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BATDAMBANG

There are many hotels with air-conditioning and satellite TV.

Restaurants are plentyful, mostly managed by Thai.

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4. LITERATURE

4.1 GUIDEBOOKS


Moon Publications, Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos, 1st Ed. Dec 1995
This book will have 650 pages and 75 maps.

Cambodia - A Travel Survivel Kit, Lonely Planet
Contains many good hints about travelling. The current edition is,
however, hopelessly outdated regarding accommodation and prices.

South-East Asia on a Shoestring, Lonely Planet
Covers the whole region.

Cambodia, Laos. Nelles. 1994.
Nice pictures and good insights into culture, but lacks the support for
independant travel that the Lonely Planet guide has. Good reading for
people on organised tours or for at home. It extensively covers Angkor
Wat.

Angkor. Passport Books.
Probably the best guide to the temples.


GERMAN

Stefan Loose, Vietnam, Kamboscha, 1994, ISBN 3-922025-47-1
This is the German translation of the first edition of the Lonely Planet
Travel Survival Kit.

Merian, Vietnam, Laos, Kambodscha, ISBN 3-7742-9510-7
This is more a nice picture book. It makes a nice souvenir and can
certainly help in preparation, but I would not recommend to carry it with
you during travelling.

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4.2 TRAVELLERS TALES

Lewis, Norman.  A Dragon Apparent: Travels in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam
(1951; current reprint by Eland Books).

Stewart, Lucretia.  Tiger Balm: Travels in Laos, Vietnam & Cambodia
(London: Chatto & Windus, 1992).

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4.3 HISTORICAL/POLITICAL BOOKS

Becker, Elizabeth, When the War Was Over
(Mary) If I had to pick one book to read out of the dozens on modern
Cambodia, it would be this: a remarkably broad *and* deep exploration of
how the Khmer Rouge came to power and the method behind the madness.
Recommended before you go.

Coedes, George. Angkor.
(Mary) A short, wonderfully written explanation of the cosmology and
symbolism of Angkor by one of its noted scholars. To be read before you
go--it will make your visit to the temples much more rewarding. (out of
print, but available at the library)

Fall, Bernard B.  Street Without Joy: Indochina at War 1946-54
(Harrisburg, Pennsylvania: Stackpole Company, 1961).

Die Krallen der Tiger und Drachen. Wirtschaftsboom und Selbstbewusstsein
in Asien. Sabine Stahl/Ulrich Mihr (Hrsg.). Droemer Verlag 1995.
An excellent book about the current political and economical
developments in Asia.

Griesenfeld, Guenter.  Land der Reisfelder. Vietnam, Laos, Kampuchea,
Geschichte und Gegenwart  (Pahl-Rugenstein, 1988). This is an excellent
history book on the three Indochinese countries.

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4.4 MOVIES

Killing Fields. Roland Joffe. GB, 1984
The story of a New York Times journalist and his Cambodian friend tells
the fall of Phnom Penh and the take-over by the Khmer Rouge. It shows the
suffering not only of his friend in an education camp, but of the whole
nation. It is an authentic report, reconstructed after their reports.

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4.5 INTERNET

The newest version of this guide is available on WWW at
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/cambodia/cambodia.htm
The archive for this guide is at
rtfm.mit.edu in /pub/usenet/news.answers/travel/cambodia-guide/

Another server is at
http://www.cambodia.org/travel/guide.html

You can obtain the Cambodian constitution at
http://www.best.com/~cambodia/facts/constitution.html

Lonely Planet has a page on Cambodia at
http://www.lonelyplanet.com.au/dest/sea/camb.htm

The Cambodia Times online is at
http//www1.jaring.my:80/at-asia/

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A. CONTRIBUTORS

I have been able to include a lot of information from other people and
sources. Where it is necessary to do so, I put the author in front of the
paragraph, mostly so when personal experiences/feelings are important.
Whenever possible I tried to contact the author of the information to get
permission and I include his/her e-mail address for reference.

Anna Kettle                  Anna@altern8.demon.co.uk
George Moore                 georgem@slip.net
Hann So                      76062.1265@CompuServe.com
Mary Lynne Werlwas           mlwerlwas@igc.apc.org
Myers Cooper                 
Nalini                       nv1@soas.ac.uk

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The homepage of the Internet Travel Guides is at
http://www-students.unisg.ch/~pgeiser/itg.htm

Please send your comments, suggestions and contributions to the address
below. For questions, please see my note in the introduction.

e-mail:peter.geiser@student.unisg.ch

Peter M. Geiser
Seeblickstr. 10
9010 St. Gallen
Switzerland

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