Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part6
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1996/8/6
Version: 3.5s


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  Effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information
  in this compilation, but the author and contributors assume no
  responsibility for errors, omissions, or damages resulting from the
  use of the information. Some of the information is opinion.
  The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of
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  form without the prior written permission of the maintainer;
  and that the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a
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  without the express permission of the maintainer
  (zatz@ssnlink.net = Dr. David Zatz).
  - - - - - - - - - - - -
  Please do NOT ask me car-related questions, as I have a limited.
  personal knowledge; send them to the newsgroup. Thank you.
  - - - - - - - - - - - -
PART VI - Driveability: engine idling, power, mileage; transmissions

There is a specific Neon FAQ.

Also see additional diagnostic procedures in part 3 and other sections
in parts 5 and 6; and classic car help in part 3.

Part 5 - Funny noises
Part 4 - General
Part 3 - Classic cars

* Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables,
  which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect without
  (or with) fault codes being registered. Check and clean the
  battery terminals and cables first!

* For heaven's sake, if your antifreeze was just changed and your car
started to overheat, find a different mechanic and purge the system of air
bubbles. (See below).

* Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on
  the web site at http://ssn.ssnlink.net/~zatz/cc/

** Index **

Note: there are *several* entries for some problems, e.g. stalling.

3.   Idle speed jumps OR Intermittent idle speed problems (2.2/2.5)
      *** (see also #28) - rough idle is in other items too
12.  Computer code 13 (MAP sensor) - engine runs rough (see #15)
15.  Cold / freezing weather problems
16.  Hard to shift in cold weather
17.  2.5L engine knocks/ticks; poor cold idle
22.  Automatic transmission jerky in downshifts (see also #69)
22.  Abrupt downshift from 3 to 2
23.  Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping
26.  Harsh 2-1 downshifts
27.  Rough idle - mod 1/96 - several causes
28.  Idle speed increases / engine races sometimes / erratically
         (see web site at http://ssn.ssnlink.net/~zatz/cc/).
30.  Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running
31.  Stalling / not starting - see also 39, 51
33.  Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)
        / icing of carburetor and other parts
35.  Engine sometimes dies / car just quits (stalling).
      (mod 1/96; several causes)
37.  Magnum V-6 engine problems
39.  Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow
41.  Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter
43.  TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)
44.  Power loss/jerky on acceleration
45.  Turbo engine cutout/power loss: See web site
        at http://ssn.ssnlink.net/~zatz/cc/
47.  Hesitation (see related topics above)
48.  3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT
49. Turbo cutting out / power loss light
50.  Jeep 4.0 stalling
51.  Car just quits.
54.  Hesitation, 3.0 liter V-6
73.  Transmission clunk / rough downshift or shudder
77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts
80. Power loss or gas mileage loss
82. Poor mileage, cold starts
83. Mitsubishi 2.6 cold start / drivability

================================================================
------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. Intermittent Idle Problems: (see also #28, #30)

Problem: on 84 Laser, 88 Omni, and 87 Shadow (2.2 liter, turbo and
non-turbo), idle suddenly jumps from 800 rpm to 3000 rpm. Sometimes goes
away quickly, sometimes doesn't. Possible solutions: AIS motor, stuck
throttle plate (checked). Solution: turning off the defroster; check the
speed/distance sensor and connection  (tzz@po.cwru.edu (Tom)), freon
level in the a/c  (james eldridge), and the wiring harness on the back
side of the engine (Jeffrey Wieland). Jeff found that the wiring harness
got hot enough to damage the wire insulation; he spearated and
re-insulated the wires, which fixed the problem.
 **********
High idle, 2.2/2.5 TBI:

Most likely automatic idle speed system.  Check for fault codes.  Check
wiring harness near AIS motor for shorted wires or wires that seem stuck
together (separate and insulate from each other).  Also check EGR
system, vacuum system, and timing.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
12. Engine runs rough - computer shows code 13

From: jizwang@cc.umanitoba.ca (Jizhong Wang) - 84 Dodge 600 ES
A couple of months ago the car stalled ocasionally with the "Power Loss"
light on. My computer said it was MAP sensor vacuum circuit (code 13). I
got a hand air vacuum pump and checked MAP sensor and hoses. I took the
car to a dealer and told my computer was faulty - didn't replace it.
Later I found a 6-way connector was loose. It was AIS motor and TPS
sensor connector, nothing to do with MAP sensor. I suggest you check the
connections and vacuum leaks before you replace MAP sensor. BTW, my MAP
sensor is accessable under dash of passenger side, inside the car. It is
two inchs above ECM.

(tzz@po.cwru.edu <Thomas Z. Zeeb> adds: on Caravan/Voyager, it is under
the hood and screwed into the firewall, just off center to the left,
above and behind the belts.  It has one vacuum hose and one three-node
electrical connector attached to it.  They range from $70 -$100 US at
the dealer.  If the MAP is shot, the engine will shut down after
starting.  Try disconnecting the MAP, the engine will then run (rough)
in some models.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------

15. Cold weather problems

Glen Larche said a MAP relocation kit is available to prevent problems
in freezing temps (rough cold idle, stalling):
Kit for turbo vehicles- 4419402
Kit for EFI vehicles- 4419401
------------------------------------------------------------------------
16. Hard to shift into reverse (manual transmissions)

francini@munch.lkg.dec.com sez this problem is common to cars which have
synchronized forward gears, but nonsynchronized reverse gears. The trick
is to shift into a forward gear before going into reverse. Or wait a few
moments before shifting into reverse, after hitting the clutch, so the
engine shaft stops spinning.
- valiant notes that the CC five-speed was modified in 1993
to make getting into reverse easier.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
17. 2.5 liter knock/idle

Cold engine knock a few seconds after startup, lasting 3-5 minutes --
most noticable at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm. Sounds like valve lifter or tappet
noise. Loudest in colder weather. Usually disappears when the car is
warm.
OR
Cold idle rough util coolant reaches 50-60 degrees F.
  -- TSB 09-06-93 provides for computer replacement.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
22. Transmission jerky / downshifts abruptly

"Tranny downshift from 3 to 2 in an extremely abrupt motion...if the van
slows to less than 10 mph and gas is applied, tranny jerks and makes a
metal pinging noise."
FIX: Replacement and reprogramming of the controller; and fluid change.
There is a TSB. Steve Chu seays: "I drove the van this morning and I
must say
the jerk went away! I can't even feel any downshifting at all!"
------------------------------------------------------------------------
23.   Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping

Jim Zimmerman had this in his Caravan. There was a TSB on this, but the
dealer said "you have to complain LOUDLY. The service guy called it the
'post shift bang' "
------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
26. Harsh 2-1 downshifts

TSB 21-16-93 covers "harsh 2-1 downshift" on the 41TE transaxle, the
four-speed auto in most CC cars from 1989-1992. The change is replacing
the transmission control module. NOTE that this is only for cars with
the 3.3, 3.8, or 3.0 liter engine.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
27. Rough idle - several cases

Switched from Getty and Citgo gas to Mobil, Amoco, and Gulf.
Made a tremendous difference.

EGR valve may be stuck open or rusted off.

Engine idled erratically when warm, sometimes lost power after first
response when accelerator pressed about 1/3-1/4 down. Dealer first
adjusted venting at gas tank, seemed to help the idle. Then cleaned and
sealed the battery connector, solving the problem; was probably bad
battery connection causing system voltage fluctuation, which caused
changes in the controls. (Mustafa Soysal) (edited)

My car died slowing down...I disconnected my EGR backpressure transducer
from the vacuum lead.  Now my car is a little bit more stable at idle,
better gas mileage, most likely can't pass emisions. (Jeffrey Paul
Chojnacki) - note: others warned against disconnecting EGR; there may
have been a leak in the EGR system.

My 2.5 liter has had a rough warm idle for about a year (it is 2 years
old). Turns out the timing was off by 2 degrees, retarded. Within spec
(+/- 2 degrees) but enough to roughen the idle. (Dave)

My 1986 Le Baron engine's CTS's connections had
corrosion on them (a scan tool showed that it took a long time to reach
180F and that it NEVER went above 180F during highway driving); I opted
to replace the CTS and connector.  Weird cold start problems
went away and fuel efficiency improved.  No fault codes were ever set.
   If you have hot restart problems which disappear after 10 seconds
of engine running, use tuner cleaner on the throttle body temperature
sensor's connector and see if the situation improves.  (Bohdan Bodnar)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
28. Idle speed increases/engine races:

     See LONG STORY at bottom of this FAQ.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running

I have an 87 Sundance 2.2 which has 130k miles and runs great. It
had power loss, stalling, rough running; replaced the $20 MAP sensor
(passenger side fender well) and fixed it. First time it went bad, did
not show up on dealer computer. (Phil McClay)

Tach danced around, engine sometimes stalled. Solution: the computer
(SMEC)'s grounding wire was loose, causing the computer to go nuts. The
wire leads from the computer to a ring connector bolted onto the engine
block at the air filter housing. Clean the corrosion off of all parts.
(dschmitt@thymaster.interaccess.com (David Schmitt))

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
31. Stalling / not starting

From: devo@gonix (Aaron): My LeBaron GTS turbo
would drive okay, then just DIE for no reason at all. The tachometer
would drop then pop back up, then it would run for a few seconds and
die. Then I could not get it started for a day or so. Then it started,
drove for about 10 minutes, died. It was a bad firing coil.

Tony Donnelly said that his 1986 Laser would run fine when it was cold
and hot, but would stop in the middle (say, after five minutes). The
problem turned out to be the engine speed sensor in the distributor cap,
which sent engine RPM to the computer. There were no codes.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
33.   Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)

In cold weather, some vehicles with the 2.6 liter 4-cylinder engine may
have severe power loss (e.g. after running about 20 minutes between 60
and 65 mph). If one steps on the gas, black smoke may come out of the
tailpipe. The solution  (from Dave Witte): A de-icing kit to heat the
intake air enough to prevent freezing. SOME engines had this kit at the
factory. The kit is not expensive.
---
My manual shows that the 2.6 had a carb air heater.  The tube that comes
up from the exhaust manifold, will be on the back side of the engine,
and hard to reach.  When the engine is cold, make sure that the vacuum
actuator in the air horn leading to the air cleaner housing is working.
In cold weather, with the engine cold, it should redirect all of the air
flow through the stove on the exhaust manifold. (Jeff Wieland)
---
The problem was freezing of the carb. and the answer was to moved the
hose that feeds outside air to the air filter compartment and position
it somehwere to the rear of the engine.  This prevents the outside cold
air from making its way over to the carb.(Ken)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
35. Engine sometimes dies.

Defective Hall-Effect pickup. (about $40) (Michael M. Knox)

(Also check the automatic cutoff solenoid) (about $12)

steinb@sasknet.sk.ca (Bryan Steiner) solved stalling on his 88 Voyager
after his dealer failed: "The wiring harness runs over the exhaust pipe
connecting the front cylinders to the rear exhaust system.  My harness had
fallen down and was touching the hot exhaust pipe and burnt through one of
the wires (I think it was one of the injector wires) and when it shorted on
the pipe, the engine would die. I took a small piece of string that tied up
the harness to the air intake hose.  Examine the entire wiring harness for
damage and check all the connectors."

With regard to a 1989 Spirit, 93,000 miles: car stalls now and then, but
runs fine if the MAP sensor is unplugged; MAP sensor has already been
replaced. Bohdan Bodnar writes:
). Hook a scan tool to the computer and set it to capture snapshots
   of the data the computer sees.
2). When the problem occurs, the driver (or whoever is operating the
   tool) informs the scan tool of this.  The tool will now mark the
   captured data frame as the "trouble frame."
3). Unload the data from the scan tool--the frames before the "trouble
  frame" show what the computer saw before the problem occurred, the
  trouble frame shows what the computer saw when the trouble occurred,
  and the subsequent frames show what the computer saw after the
  trouble occurred. Disconnecting the MAP sensor merely
  causes the computer to substitute a default value in its
  memory for the MAP reading and to ignore this sensor's output.
  You can achieve the same by disconnecting the vacuum hose to
  the sensor with the engine off and then starting the engine. The
  computer won't see a change in MAP while cranking, will set the MAP
  circuit fault code, and then ignore the MAP sensor.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
37. Magnum V-6 engine problems

Problem: 1992 Dakota 4x4 with Magnum V-6. Engine faltering badly
sometimes when cold, sometimes when hot.  On cold starts, the engine
will sometimes act as though it's getting gas only at idle, won't
accelerate.
It will cough and sputter awhile, then "catch" and take off, running
fine from then on.  Other times, it will "skip a beat or two" at speed,
under mild acceleration.

David Wright: Some Magnum engines came with "mis-phased" distributors,
causing  intermittent missing.

Jerald Barker: Replace the back pressure transducer and EGR valve. The
Back Pressure Transducer lies next to the EGR valve just above the left
valve cover.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
39. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow

Snow and rain spray blew in through the grille, through the opening
where the air conditioner lines go. That moisture ended up directly on
the distributor and ignition wires. I put some pink fiberglass house
insulation in the gap around the AC lines, just jammed it in, and have
not had that problem since then.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
41. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter

>After running for about 20 minutes the power drops out to the point
>where I have to pull over. If I am in "Park or Neutral" and step on the
>gas pedal, black smoke comes from the tail pipe.

With 2.6L engined minivans ... the airflow goes right
over the carburetor ...  freezing it solid.  Seconfd you stop, engine
heat thaws it out (which is why  you can stop, restart, and it seems a
lot better). I put a metal shield in front of the carburetor
to deflect wind around it and it worked. -- Jonathan N. Deitch
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
43.  TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)

2.5 liter, TBI: Intermittent engine hesitation under high speed driving
ONLY or under moderately high speed and heavy acceleration.  The problem
NEVER occurs during moderate driving or heavy acceleration at low to
moderate speeds.

The brass pin you see from the top of the injector controls pintle
throw. It seems they didn't make it a tight enough fit. Eventually the
pin begins to back out and the ECM keeps shortening the injector pulse
to compensate for the change in mixture. The process can take several
months before it produces symptoms. After continued driving, the pin
backs out to a point that the ECM can no longer compensate for and you
get driveability problems. (dotto@ix.netcom.com)

First check fuel pressure, its around 14.5 psi engine off (using DRB in
actuator test)  I have also seen the distributor pick-up unit on these
cut out intermittently.  When the computer loses the signal from the
distributor, it shuts fuel/spark off.  Also in the distributor itself
there is a HALL-effect plate which tends to get loose.  This causes
erratic signals too.  One TSB involves re-locating the MAP sensor from
the logic module(right kick panel) to the right strut tower.  Water
would  sometimes condense in the MAP sensor vacuum line and contaminate
the  sensor.  EGR failures are also common.  They sometimes get stuck
open and  cause hesitation problems.  Try disconnecting the vacuum hose
from the  EGR valve.  The car will probably ping on acceleration, but
hesitation  should cease.  The valve is located on the driver's side end
of the  exhaust manifold.  You may have to remove the air cleaner
housing to see  it.  Faulty TPS sensor can cause this type of problem.
It may have a  "dead spot"  (Eric Eleazar)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
44.  Power loss/jerky on acceleration

Turned out to be the fuel filter (86 Aries 5-speed, 2.2).(Dave) (89
Aries, 2.5, after 1/2 hour car jerks, fine on short drives): I fought a
similar problem for 18 months ... it would falter, hesitate, and do
anything but pull. The dealers (all 13 I went to) replaced the map
sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, turbo
boost solenoid, egr valve, pcv valve, and just about every other
gadget...I found a dealer who knew something, and they fixed the problem
in under an hour.  The plug wires had been installed incorrectly, and
were not providing a secure connection to the spark plugs.  The engine
computer tried to correct for it, but couldn't...Find a dealer who
actually has a brain cell or two and doesn't just plug in the magic
brain ... and will actually TEST the car. (jnoyes@usa.net)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
47. Hesitation (also covered elsewhere)

Problem: 2.5 engine hesitates/sputters/lurches for a second now and
then under normal driving conditions (highway, cruising, foot steady on
gas). Reason: plug wires were going bad. (Paul F. Schikora )

Problem: hesitation/lurching. Solution: fouled plugs. Oil fouled plugs
may indicate serious problems or just bad PCV valve.

Problem: 3.0 V-6 bogging on acceleration. Solution: clean the throttle
body if it has gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the throttle
plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a good
carburetor spray solvent.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
48.  3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT

My 1992 Dakota 3.9L needed a new timing chain and gears
at 49,000 miles.  This was originally diagnosed as "mis-phased"
distributer, and "fixed" to some degree.  The symptoms returned
and eventually the dealer replaced the timing chain and gear set.
...
According to one of the service managers, the 1992 Magnums had a
"single roller" roller chain.  The 93+ engines have the more typical
double roller.  This may be a common problem for the pre-93s.

The misfiring had been happening sometimes on upshifts, but worsened as
performance sagged. The misfiring occurs when the rotor gets enough out
of phase that the spark gets fed to the wrong cylinder. The system on
this engine gets the crankshaft position information from the flywheel,
so ignition timing is not changed by this problem, valve timing *is*,
and distributer rotor "phase" is.  This makes the problem insidious.

Get it fixed SOON.
Perhaps someone in this group can find a TSB that references this topic.
My dealer alluded to info from Chrysler on this problem.  (Ron Luse)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
49.  Turbo cuts out/power limited/power loss light

Under hard acceleration, the engine would cut out, rock like hell and
the check engine light would come on (until I released the pedal). (2.2
turbo) It turned out to be a  disconnected vacuum hose to the wastegate
assembly. (Ralph J. Zottola)

Check the vacuum hose to the wastegate.  If the wastegate is not
opening, the turbo will overboost, the the computer will cut the fuel.
As the RPM decreases, the boost lowers and the fuel comes back on. (Mac
Alan Crossett)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
50. Jeep 4.0 EFI engine stalls at a stop (Jeep 4.0 stalling).

The problem is the flywheel sensor.  It is located by following the
wires from the along the firewall and along the bellhousing. These
sensors get worn out from debris and it also might be just the
wires going to it. I had the same problem and took it to a dealer
and they couldn't figure it out either. (Ken Talley)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
51. Car just quits.

Could be battery misconnection, or the shutoff solenoid (a device
designed to make sure the engine does not diesel or start unexpectedly).
Also check 2.2 and 2.5 for distributor pickup - may intermittently fail
without showing fault codes.

ramhead@together.net (Wayne Racine) noted that, when a Neon loses ignition
while driving, a wiring harness could be routed too closely to the EGR
valve; there is a recall out for a small number of these. This can affect
22 circuits and may not be visible even after peeling back the convolute.
Check for wires melted together and brittle wires.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
54. 3.0 V-6 hesitation or bogging on acceleration

Check throttle body for gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the
throttle plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a
good carburetor spray solvent.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
73.  LH transmission clunk / rough downshift

bwetmore@cadvision.com (Blair Wetmore) wrote that, on a 94 New Yorker,
the dealer reprogrammed the computer to cure the shudder that occurred
when the torque converter locked up under light throttle. The new lockup
speed is higher, and downshifts at low speeds are much better. This
applied to all LH models.

vinp@ix.netcom.com (Vincent Paul) notes that there is a similar TSB on
four-speed automatic transmission shudders. (He wrote in response to a 3.3
V6 Voyager which shuddered between 35-40 mph, stopping when the driver took
his foot off the gas). The trans shudders because it goes into partial
torque converter lockup. The solution is to update the computer's
programming.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts

profgmby@cybercomm.net (Sir Spamalot)
>wt@islandnet.com (Wayne Taylor) wrote:
>I have an '82 LeBaron 2.6 with an A470 Torqueflite transmission.
>With the colder than normal temps here locally lately we have
>begun to notice engine 'flare-up'  or a slow shift from 1st to 2nd during
>the first few hundred yards from parking (our house).  I usually
>back off on the accelerator a bit to give the car a chance to shift; otherwise
>the engine will just accelerate as if the transmission is slipping.

My '88 Caravan has been doing a similar thing for the last 2-3
winters.  Just take it easy during warm-ups;  it apparantly has no
effect (at least being easy on it doesn't) as I have over 150,000 mi
on the vehicle.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
80. Power loss or gas mileage loss

Vaughn Smith's 2.5 was losing power and mileage. While replacing a burnt
rotor (one thing to look at), he took off the Hall effect sensor. He saw
that it read when each "vane" on the distributor shaft passed the pickup
point; the inner surface of the vane, though, was extremely dirty. He
replaced the rotor and cleaned the vane, and found that gas mileage and
power increased. He also found this problem on a 2.2 TBI and a 2.2 Turbo,
with some improvement in each case.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
82. Poor mileage, cold starts

George Lobay's 2.2 TBI had poor gas mileage, poor cold starts, and codes
17, 22, and 52. The cause was a bad connection in the circuit to the
coolant sensor, causing the computer to guess the engine temperature (limp
in mode, characterized by high idle). The cure: using electrical contact
cleaner at the coolant sensor connector, on the round 6-position connector
in behind the battery; and on
the big bulkhead connector on the driver's side. For each one, spray it on,
plug it in and out a few times to hopefully improve the connection. Make
sure you have a good ground at the sensor (black wire). Put it all back
together, start the engine. Check voltage at coolant sensor (leave it
connected, just skin a bit off the insulation of each wire and tap in with
your multimeter) it should be somewhere in the 3 Volt range. If that
doesn't do it the only connector left is the one on the computer. Note:
don't forget that if you clean the computer connector you must re-grease it
by Chrysler procedures.

--------------------------------------------
83/ Cold start/initial run problem - MMC 2.6

(Courtesy Marvin Stockman) The Mitsubishi 2.6's carburetor choke pulloff
tends to break; the only fix is a $700 replacement.  I have made a  twisted
loop (like a hangmans noose) of soft metal wire and place the noose section
around the stud that holds the air cleaner duct. I let the twisted straight
section hang down into the throat of the carburetor.  I try to get the wire
as close to the wall of the carburetor as I can.  This has the effect of
preventing the choke plate from closing completely, and eliminates any cold
running problem.  It is important to use thin wire ( I used soft aluminum
wire) in order to keep the opening small, otherwise the initial idle is
very high.
Another solution would be to drill a small hole in the choke plate.  During
very cold weather, I pump the accelerator 4 to 5 times and the car starts
right up.
--------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------


--
I have moved to a faster and more reliable ISP (Super Silicone Network).
http://www.mordor.com/valiant is now http://ssn.ssnlink.net/~zatz/cc/
valiant@mordor.com is now zatz@ssnlink.net -- I regret any inconvenience.


