Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part1
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Last-modified: 1 July 1994

This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 1) on ship modeling.

Disclaimer:  My personal experience is with traditional, static wooden ship
models.  Thus the answers below lean toward that aspect.  PLEASE feel free
to provide me with information on other aspects (e.g., plastic ship models,
etc.).

The questions being addressed are:

(FAQ Part I):
1. I don't have the patience to build a ship model (?)
2. What is a good beginner's model to start with?
3. What is "lead sickness"?
4. What is meant by "Museum Quality" ship models?
5. Should models be painted or left natural wood?
6. How do I install ratlines?
7. What woods are recommended?

(FAQ Part II):
100. Are there any ship modeling clubs?

(FAQ Part III):
101. Where can I find... ?
 
(FAQ Part IV):
102.    Where can I find information... ?

(The latter two have disjoint numbering so I won't have to renumber frequently.)


1. I don't have the patience to build a ship model (?)
    A: First of all, "Patience is that attribute required to do something you
 DON'T WANT TO DO!"...if you don't want to build a model, no one will
 (or CAN) force you to.
 However, there are a number of thing you can do to make it more likely
 that your patience will be sustained for the duration of the project:
 o  Have some idea what you're doing.  READ THE INSTRUCTIONS (if it's a
    kit).  If you don't understand (and many instructions are "opaque"),
    ASK someone (see the list of ship Modeling Clubs, or ask here)!
 o  If you've never built a (ship) model before, start with a SIMPLE
    one (see 2., below).  That will help insure that you'll finish in
    a reasonable amount of time, and will help you understand the
    terminology (i.e., what you call the "pointy end of the boat",
    and all those "sticks" and "string").
 o  Build yourself a "kit".  Most people start with the hull, which is
    typically ~10% of the work/time required, and ~90% of the visual
    effect (more than once, I've been asked by a visitor if I've done
    anything to a model since they've last seen it (6 months earlier),
    because I've spent the 6 months adding details that you have to LOOK
    for).  Instead, BUILD SUB-ASSEMBLIES FIRST (e.g., the anchor, ship's
    boats, cannon/carriages, etc.) -- these can be added to a row of
    parts marching across the "mantlepiece";  every time you look at
    them you see you're making progress.  When you're done, THEN assemble
    them into the model.
 o  Contact other modelers (even if not ship modelers).  Even if they
    are not doing the same thing you are, being able to ask a person
    questions, and explaining your "tricks' is a stimulus to get your
    interest up again.

2. What is a good beginner's model to start with?
    A: The following are often recommended:
 Bluejacket: Eastport Pinky, Bluenose
 Model Shipways: Phantom, Katy, Sultana
 A. J. Fisher: Pilot Schooner, Lark
 Model Expo: Gjoa, Swift, Scottish Maid, Pinky
 Note that this list does NOT contain any of the popular Italian
 kits - these suffer from poor instructions and plans, inadequate
 research, and excessive complexity for a beginner; only a small
 fraction of the kits sold are ever completed.


3. What is "lead sickness"?
    A: Model fittings which contain lead have a bad reputation of frequently
 "decaying" after 10-20 years.  Current thinking is that the cause is
 the presence of Antimony in the alloy. This metal is used to make the
 molten metal more fluid.  Apparently, it crystalizes out of the melt
 as the metal solidifies;  the result is that on the crystalline level
 dissimilar metals are in contact (if they didn't separate, the metals
 would be mixed at the atomic level).  The result is that in the
 presence of water (or other chemicals) a galvanic reaction is set up
 (a tiny battery is formed) which causes chemical reactions to occur;
 the lead oxidizes into lead monoxide PbO, accompanied by the formation
 of antimony hydride SbH3 (stilbine) which is a gas and escapes into
 the atmosphere.
 Most "soft" solders and "type metal" contain both lead and antimony.
 An alternative is "Brittania metal" which is 93% tin, 5% antimony,
 and 2% copper.
 "Traditional" Pewter can contain up to 7% antimony, 20% lead, 4%
 copper, and the rest tin.  Modern Pewter is sold as "lead free",
 and so probably doesn't have the problem.
 (This description is based on a letter by William G. Webb in Model
 Shipbuilder #87.)


4. What is meant by "Museum Quality" ship models?
    A. This topic has been discussed regularly in the Journal of the Nautical
 Research Guild.
 Edward P. Von der Porten, former director of the Army, Navy, and
 Coast Guard Museum near San Francisco says "A museum quality ship
 model is whatever a museum director accepts for a museum collection".
 In general, the model (or artifact) must be able to convey part of
 a carefully thought out STORY to a thoroughly analyzed AUDIENCE.
 If the exhibit concerns ship "crafts", sailor-built models, half-models,
 and ships in bottles may have a role, even if inaccurate.
 In a diorama (for example, in the 2-MILE section of Omaha Beach to
 be displayed aboard the Jeremial O'Brian, using 1:1200 models), a
 uniform scale is important (for this example, detail is not).
 On the other hand, Dana M. Wegner reports that the standards used
 by the U. S. Navy and Smithsonian have been relatively unchanged
 since 1945:
 o It is reasonable for a model to last 100 years before deterioration
   becomes visible.  Resistance to actions of temperature, humidity,
   and light is essential...some recently developed model-building
   materials and techniques should be avoided until sufficient time
   has passed to properly evaluate their longevity...It is advised
   that fiberglass resins, styrene, expanding foams, casting resins,
   and cyanoacrylate glues be avoided when other materials can
   possibly be used.
 o 'Workmanship shall be in accordance, in every respect, with the best
   model-building practices.  Hulls shall be smooth,fair, and
   symmetrical; without blemishes, sap pockets, or tool marks, and
   shall be scraped and sand-papered to smooth surface.  Machined parts
   shall bear no tool marks.  Castings shall contain no visible mold
   marks.'
 o Any item with any SCALE dimension of 1/8" or greater must be
   reproduced...work must be consistent [no super-detailing of one part
   of the model contrasting with lesser levels of detail elsewhere].
 o A great deal is specified about acceptable and required materials
   (e.g., 'Propellers should be cast in bronze...Plastic propellers
   are not permitted').
 o 'Painting of models shall receive careful attention...All parts of
   the model shall have a surface treatment representing the actual
   vessel if reduced in scale...models shall be spray painted with opaque
   lacquer.  Paint shall be applied thinly and evenly so that find detail
   will not be obliterated.  The use of metallic paints such as silver or
   gold is discouraged.  The use of white enamel or natural varnish is
   not permitted'...'Wooden parts shall be sufficiently filled and primed
   so that when rubbed down, the wood grain is not visible.'
 { The full set of specifications can be found in:  Department of Ship
 Model Scales and Service. Ship Model Classification Guidelines [Mystic,
 Connecticut:  Mystic Seaport Museum Stores, 1983]  It was also published
 in part in Ships in Scale 6-34 (March/April 1989)} -- what this all
 boils down to is that the purpose of a ship model is to support a coat
 of paint of the correct SHAPE!


5. Should models be painted or left natural wood?
  A: Indeed, it is an artistic decision that must be made by the builder.
 In the same category is whether to paint brass parts.  Very, very few
 parts on a real ship were brass (bronze, maybe, but not brass).  So,
 one thing to consider would be consistancy.  Not painting because of
 the beauty of the construction material may say no paint on either wood
 or brass parts.
 This is one advantage of building older ships.  Many older merchant
 ships, and warships earlier than mid seventeenth century were painted
 only in a few areas, oiled on top, and various tallow mixtures applied
 below the waterline (that stuff is really ugly if scale!).
 A similar "artistic choice" is how to depict rigging. Many modelers do
 not add sails for two reasons.  One, it is hard to make good sails,
 second, some feel the sails hide some of the detail.  Yet, the running
 rigging adds much detail to ship.  So, many people display (particularly
 on warships) model with yards raised and much running rigging displayed,
 but no sails.  Actually, there may have been times when this was done
 for a review or special ceremony, but was not normal.
 (Answer from:  Don Stauffer)


6. How do I install ratlines?
  A: My current practice is to install the masts without the yards but
 including any masthead platforms.  After installing the shrouds in a
 prototypical manner, I use the "smallest" gauge needle I can lay my
 hands on to sew the ratlines through the shrouds.  In any reasonable
 scale the prototypical knots will be virtually invisible if you are
 using appropriately sized thread.  After the tedious sewing job is
 done I brush a semi-gloss black enamel to simulate the tarred seizing
 of the shrouds.  This also cements the ratlines into place permanently,
 so make any needed adjustments before reaching for the paintbrush!
 (Answer from:  John Bonnett)
 Stretching the thread and soaking it with a thin wash of white glue
 and letting it dry will stiffen it, which may be an advantage (but
 real ratlines were NOT straight -- they hung in curves between the
 shrouds).

7. What woods are recommended?
  A: A large variety of woods exist...some of these are useful for ship
 models:
 apple  - good for planking...bends easily
 balsa  - TOO SOFT for ship model use!
 bamboo  - tough, easily split;  used for trunnels, etc.
 basswood - soft but readily available
 boxwood  - the best for find detail carving
 clear pine - for bread-and-butter hulls
 cherry  - fairly common, fine grain, somewhat brittle
 de gama  - good for masts and spars
 ebony  - Black!  very hard and brittle, doesn't bend easily
 holly  - White!  good for decking, carving
 pear  - like cherry but brown instead of red

 note: ANY wood can be stained to look like ebony using black india
  ink as a stain.


