An engine that starts acting up this way is generally not a sign of immediate cataclysm.  Because the car is running, it should get you home or to the next service center.                     If the problem is with the cylinder head gasket, the flame from one cylinder will cross over and ignite the adjoining one.  This can be checked by performing a compression test on your car.  Inadequate compression and backfiring are signs of a faulty cylinder head or sticky valves.      Another possibility is too lean of fuel mixture (too much air versus too little fuel).  Have the carburetor adjusted by a qualified mechanic.                   One possibility is the fuel metering valve in the carburetor is stuck in the closed position.  A closed fuel metering valve may be opened by lightly tapping the side of the carburetor bowl with a screwdriver handle.  Remember, if this works, add some carburetor cleaner to your next tank of gas and this should eventually clear the sticky fuel metering valve.  Additionally, you should also check the air filter for holes and dirt build up.  If it looks dirty or damaged, replace it.                             Cars equipped with a deceleration valve for emission control can experience, particularly at slow speeds, stalling, backfiring, and rough running if the internal vacuum-sensing diaphragm is damaged.  Additionally, if the failed sensing diaphragm results in a vacuum leak into the manifold, you may experience reduced power, overheating, poor mileage, and rough running.               This is generally related to intermittent ignition and may be solved by replacing your spark plug wires.                        This is generally related to fuel delivery problems and may be solved by replacing the fuel filter.                             Another possibility is too lean of fuel mixture (too much air versus too little fuel).  Have the carburetor adjusted by a qualified mechanic.                   One possibility is the fuel metering valve in the carburetor is stuck in the closed position.  A closed fuel metering valve may be opened by lightly tapping the side of the carburetor bowl with a screwdriver handle.  Remember, if this works add some carburetor cleaner to your next tank of gas and this should eventually clear the sticky fuel metering valve.  Additionally, you should also check the air filter for holes and dirt build up.  If it looks dirty or damaged, replace it.                              Move your car into your garage at night and turn off the garage lights, leaving the garage door open for proper ventilation.  Open the hood and while standing clear, have someone start the car.  If you see electricity arcing or a blue corona, replace those spark plug wires.  NOTE: Be sure to turn of car before replacing spark plug wires.             There are many reasons for a loss of power, so professional diagnostics may be the simplest and fastest way to pinpoint the problem(s).                         Requires a mechanic to adjust.  Refer to your car owner's manual for the proper gas type and octane rating.                     It's possible in very cold weather for water in your fuel to freeze and block the fuel line.

NOTE: You can check this by taking off the top of the air cleaner and looking to see that gas squirts into the carburetor barrel when you open the throttle.  The reason the car first started was due to the fuel already in the carburetor.  You can melt the ice blockage by pouring hot water over the lower sections of the fuel lines and fuel pump (IMPORTANT: DO NOT POUR WATER IN OR ON THE CARBURETOR).

If this does not help, move the car into a heated garage and wait for the ice to melt.                     Check fuel filter.  If obviously dirty replace it.  If this is not practical due to circumstances, remove the filter and connect the fuel line directly to the carburetor.  However, replace the fuel filter as soon as possible.  Check rubber fuel lines for leaks and replace if necessary.  Requires replacement.           Requires replacement.           This is generally related to intermittent ignition and may be solved by replacing your spark plug wires.

NOTE: SIMPLE IGNITION TEST - Move your car into your garage at night and turn off the garage lights (make sure to leave the garage door open for proper ventillation).  Open the hood, and while standing clear, have someone start the car.  If you see electricity arcing or a blue corona, replace those spark plug wires.  NOTE: Be sure to turn of car before replacing spark plug wires.                      Requires visual inspection and reference to your car's service manual for expected life of your air filter.  If the filter is older than specified in your service manual, replace it.  If not, inspect it for holes or dirt clogs.  If dirty or damaged, replace it.                           Hold a rag approximately 12 inches behind your exhaust pipe while your parking brake is on and the car is in neutral.  Then have someone step on the gas pedal for you.  If there is no evidence of exhaust flow, the exhaust system is blocked and will cause a significant loss of engine power.

NOTE: Check for a foreign body in tail pipe (mud, etc.).  Check for damage that may have been caused by hitting something in the road or a curb.  And finally, remember that using LEADED fuel (in a car that requires unleaded fuel), may plug your catalytic converter.                 Check to see that the ignition timing is set to your car's specifications.                      Check to see that the distributor is attached properly.  A loose distributor can rotate and have an adverse effect on your car's timing.                        Carburetor float may need adjustment.                           This is a very serious situation and is generally indicated by your temperature light or gauge.  IF THIS IS THE CASE, STOP YOUR CAR AND ARRANGE FOR A TOW!      If your car is experiencing a loss of compression, then correcting it is a job for a qualified mechanic.  However, with a good do-it-yourself book and the correct tools, you may wish to run the actual test yourself.         Again, there may be even more factors involved in an engine's loss of power and professional diagnostics are definitely in order.                               Black smoke usually means the fuel system is in need of adjustment.
 
This happens when the air/fuel mixture is too rich (too much fuel to air ratio).  Remember, when you car is running "too rich" you are wasting expensive fuel.                          Short puffs of white smoke when you start your car is normal.  Steady clouds of white smoke indicate that fluid from the radiator is making its way into the cylinders and is probably from a warped head gasket.  Changing a head gasket generally requires a qualified mechanic.              Blue-gray smoke is an indicator of burning oil.  During acceleration blue smoke indicates worn rings.  Full time blue smoke could mean either cylinder imbalance or compression problems.  Blue smoke during idle or deceleration could mean valve guides and seals need servicing.  See a qualified mechanic.                  One of the most common causes for an engine to idle rough is that one of the cylinders is not working properly.  See a mechanic.                                At normal operating temperatures, check the choke to see if it is opening all the way.  If it is not, have it adjusted or repaired by a qualified mechanic.     Check the PCV valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve), by grabbing the hose that leads to one of the rocker arm covers.  Unclamp it and shake it; if it rattles, it is OK.  If not, replace it.                            Check the spark plugs for proper gap and wear.  If the gap is not set correctly, abnormal wear of the plugs will occur.         Check for proper spark delivery.  You can do this by removing the cable from the center tower of the distributor cap.  This can be done by gently pulling it from near its base.  Next, hold the wire with a wooden clothespin to keep from getting shocked.  Point it to within a quarter-inch of a clean, bare metal area.  Have someone start the car briefly.  If both the distributor and the coil are working properly you will see a thick blue spark jump from the cable to your metal target.  Remember -  don't hold the wire with your hand or anything else that is not insulated!  Check secondary circuit for spark delivery by removing one spark plug cable at a time and holding it to within a quarter-inch of a clean, bare metal spot.  Check for arcing similar to that of the preceding primary circuit test.  Remember -  don't hold the wire with your hand or anything else that is not insulated!     Check to make sure both idle speed and mixture are set to your car's specific parameters by referring to your service manual.   If your car is experiencing a loss of compression, then correcting it is a job for a qualified mechanic.  However, with a good do-it-yourself book and the correct tools, you may wish to run the actual test yourself. 

If the compression is good on all cylinders and the idle remains rough, it may indicate a clogged carburetor and require a qualified mechanic.                      Burning oil can be a sign of very serious and expensive engine problems, so naturally the first step is to determine whether your car is truly burning oil or is just leaking oil.  Opening up an engine to do exploratory surgery is very expensive and should be considered only after some low cost engine diagnostics including "wet and dry compression tests", "electronic cylinder balance", and possibly "cylinder leak down tests".  These can generally be done for less than $50 per test versus many hundreds of dollars for exploratory surgery.   Requires a qualified mechanic because it involves taking the entire engine apart to get to the problem.                         Not quite so involved as a "ring job", but may cost hundreds of dollars.  Involves removing the engine head and the expertise of a qualified mechanic.          Also requires removing the engine head and a qualified mechanic.                                Unlike worn rings, valve guides and head gaskets; seals will allow oil to flow into the cylinders without a noticeable loss of power or compression.  See a qualified mechanic.                 If you're not out of gas, it may be "vapor lock".  This happens when the fuel gets so hot (possibly due to stop-and-go traffic), that it begins to boil in the fuel line and prevents liquid fuel from entering the carburetor.

NOTE: The only cure for vapor lock is cooling off.           Check fuel filter.  If obviously dirty replace it.  If this is not practical due to circumstances, remove the filter and connect the fuel line directly to the carburetor.  However, replace the fuel filter as soon as possible.  Check rubber fuel lines for leaks and replace if necessary.  Check the ground wire from your battery to see that is not loose or off.  If it's not the ground wire it may be necessary to test both the primary and secondary circuits.                      Check for proper spark delivery.  You can do this by removing the cable from the center tower of the distributor cap.  This can be done by gently pulling it from near its base.  Next, hold the wire with a wooden clothespin to keep from getting shocked.  Point it to within a quarter-inch of a clean, bare metal area.  Have someone start the car briefly.  If both the distributor and the coil are working properly you will see a thick blue spark jump from the cable to your metal target.  Remember -  don't hold the wire with your hand or anything else that is not insulated!  Check secondary circuit for spark delivery by removing one spark plug cable at a time and holding it to within a quarter-inch of a clean, bare metal spot.  Check for arcing similar to that of the preceding primary circuit test.  Remember -  don't hold the wire with your hand or anything else that is not insulated!

NOTE: If you just went through high water, you may have splashed water onto your ignition wires.  If so, using a dry rag, dry both the inside and outside of your distributor cap.  This may resolve the problem.  If you have it, use WD-40 to displace the water on the soaked part.           First, check the level of fluid in the radiator.  Caution must be exercised when removing the radiator cap.  Scalding radiator fluid will cause severe burns.   Sediment can damage the thermostat, water pump and eventually hoses.  Flush the system.         If the cap is defective, it will allow your radiator coolant to boil away.                      Check the front of the radiator for bugs, leaves, etc. that may be blocking the much-needed air flow for cooling.               Check hoses for obvious cuts and less obvious cracks.  Check the connecting clamps to make sure they are tight.                 Check the fan belt to make sure it has the proper tension.  Caution - some fans come on automatically even if the engine is turned off.                         Check your oil level and make sure it's clean and to the proper level.                          Check the thermostat and make sure it opens and closes at its rated temperatures.

NOTE: You can test your thermostat by taking it from the car and into the house where you submerge it in a pan of undiluted antifreeze.  Using a high-temperature thermometer, heat the liquid to within 20 degrees of the opening temperature (stamped on the side of the thermostat).  At this point, tap the thermostat with something and it should open at least a quarter-inch.  Now let the liquid cool down. When the temperature drops 10 degrees below its opening temperature, the valve should close.                          Check to make sure the ignition timing is set to your car's specific parameters.                May be caused by either a damaged or worn accelerator pump, improper timing, or worn valves.    It's called dieseling because the engine continues to fire without a spark, just as a real diesel engine works - no spark necessary.

NOTE: Dieseling might stop if you gun the engine just before you shut if off.  On a manual transmission, put the car in neutral and push in the clutch before you shut the car off.     May be necessary to have the ignition timing reset.             May be necessary to test the emission control system and if necessary, replace some of the emission control parts.              In older cars, you may have excess carbon scraped out of the upper cylinder area, but this will require a qualified mechanic.  In newer cars, you may want to get out on the freeway and briefly gun the accelerator to the floor, to clean out the carbon.  Be careful not to exceed the speed limit or endanger people or property.                           Prolonged pinging can be very destructive to your engine and very expensive to repair.  The sound can be heard from under the hood and may only last a few seconds at a time.                   Most turbocharged cars today come with built-in ping sensors.  If yours does, have the sensor checked.                          Your car may require a higher octane gasoline.  A level higher than you might realize with just regular unleaded fuel.

NOTE: Try different brands of gasoline.  Sometimes this will work.  If your car only takes unleaded gas, try a premium unleaded.  For cars that still use leaded gas, try using half regular leaded with half premium unleaded.       Check your car's oil dipstick and make sure the oil level is where it is supposed to be. Too much oil (overfilled) may cause the oil to foam and cause pinging. This may cause a higher than specified compression ratio for your car and result in pinging.

In older cars, you may have excess carbon scraped out of the upper cylinder area, but this will require a qualified mechanic.  In newer cars, you may want to get out on the freeway and briefly gun the accelerator to the floor to clean out the carbon.  Be careful not to exceed the speed limit or endanger people or property.                            It's sometimes possible to stop the pinging by having your timing set back two to six degrees.

NOTE: Setting the timing back will result in both lower mileage and performance.              Approximately half of all pinging problems are directly related to emission control components.  Pinpointing these problems require the expertise of a qualified mechanic with state-of-the-art diagnostic tools and knowledge. First, check the level of fluid in the radiator.  Caution must be exercised when removing the radiator cap.  Scalding radiator fluid will cause severe burns.   Sediment can damage the thermostat, water pump, and eventually hoses.  Flush the system.        If the radiator cap is defective, it will allow your radiator coolant to boil away.             Check the front of the radiator for bugs, leaves, etc. that may be blocking the much-needed air flow for cooling.               Check hoses for obvious cuts and less obvious cracks.  Check the connecting clamps to make sure they are tight.                 Check the fan belt to make sure it has the proper tension.  Caution - some fans come on automatically even if the engine is turned off.                         Check your oil level and make sure it's clean and to the proper level.                          Check the thermostat and make sure it opens and closes at its rated temperatures.

NOTE: You can test your thermostat by taking it from the car and into the house where you submerge it in a pan of undiluted antifreeze.  Using a high-temperature thermometer, heat the liquid to within 20 degrees of the opening temperature (stamped on the side of the thermostat). At this point, tap the thermostat with something and it should open at least a quarter-inch.  Now let the liquid cool down.  When the temperature drops 10 degrees below its opening temperature, the valve should close.                          Check to make sure the ignition timing is set to your car's specific parameters.

NOTE: Try to restart while keeping your foot on the gas pedal.  If the engine noise is smooth when your foot leaves the pedal, and car stalls, it may be an emission problem or simply require an adjustment of the idle.  If the engine shakes when you remove your foot and then stalls, check your spark plugs to see if any are disconnected.  If they are not, check to see if the vacuum hose or anything else under the hood has been disconnected.  If this doesn't work, call a mechanic.          This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   Before having your car repaired, check the shop's complaint record with your state or local consumer protection office, or local Better Business Bureau.        Describe the problem(s) you are having with the car as completely as possible.  Tell the mechanic exactly what you want done.   Before you leave the car, make sure the work order reflects what you want done.                 Ask for a written estimate before any major repair work is done.  Make sure the work order says that you must approve additional repair work.                   If additional work is done without your permission, you don't have to pay for the unapproved work, and you have the right to have the bill adjusted.            Ask to inspect and/or keep all replaced parts.                  Keep copies of all work orders and receipts, and get all warranties in writing.                 Many sates have "lemon" laws for new cars that have recurring problems.  Contact your local or state consumer protection office for more details.               The braking system is designed to apply a powerful friction force to the wheels of the car, strong enough to overcome its weight and speed and bring the car to a stop.                         Disc brakes utilize a caliper that attaches to the wheel hub, in order to provide a two-sided braking force.  Both inboard and outboard brake shoes and pads on a given caliper, are actuated by hydraulic pressure.  As part of the caliper, the brake shoes and pads apply friction directly to the brake disc.  This happens when hydraulic pressure forces a piston to exert pressure on the inboard shoe and pad, while at the same time pulling the entire caliper arm laterally, with its outboard shoe and pad, tight against the opposite side of the brake disc.  This way, it exerts double braking power.  A simple illustration of this would be stopping a turning record on your record player by squeezing the top surface and the back surface of the record between your thumb and index finger.              A drum brake is a metal drum that is attached to the hub of the wheel.  Because its attached to the hub, it rotates when the wheel rotates.  Inside the brake drum are the stationary brake shoes (they don't rotate with the hub and drum), and a wheel cylinder.  When you step on your brake pedal, a master cylinder forces brake fluid into the wheel cylinder thereby driving two internal pistons apart.  On the end of the wheel cylinder pistons are two push-rods.  The rods extend outside both ends of the wheel cylinder and apply a pushing force against the brake shoes, thus stopping the wheel from turning (AKA braking).                    The parking brake is a mechanical system completely independent of the hydraulic brakes.  This is why if you lose hydraulic brake fluid while going down the highway, your parking brake should still work (however, not as well as your hydraulic brakes), but if it's in proper adjustment, your parking brake will give you some braking action.  When you engage your parking brake you are actually pulling a steel cable that attaches to a tension lever.  The tension lever controls the cables that run to the rear wheels and pulls the respective brake shoes into the drums and therefore causes braking.           A vacuum powered booster device designed to provide additional force, via hydraulic pressure, to your brake system.  The power brake system is employed during braking to boost the force applied to the brake pedal.           This is a special switch designed to monitor hydraulic pressure in your front and rear brakes.  If you lose pressure in either one, the warning switch sends a signal to your brake warning light on your dashboard, and alerts you to the problem.             The cooling system is designed to keep your car operating at its most optimum temperature (circa 180 degrees F).  At temperatures above 180 degrees, the oil breaks down and becomes less effective at providing protection against friction.  At temperatures below 180 degrees, the oil becomes mores viscous and circulates too slow to be fully effective.  The process of bringing the car up to its optimum temperature quickly and then maintaining that temperature, is the function of the various cooling system components.                          A solution of water and Ethylene Glycol used to lower the freezing point and raise the boiling point, of water.  Coolant may also be just water.  Additionally, your engine's oil system aids in temperature control.           An overflow tank designed to collect and hold coolant that overflows from the radiator.         Designed as a heat exchange unit.  The radiator exposes the very hot coolant returned from the interior of the engine to the outside air.  This process is aided by the radiator fan that pulls outside air through the radiator core for more effective cooling.                               A device used to control a valve that stays shut when the engine is cold and opens when the engine is hot.  When the engine is up to its normal operating temperature, the thermostat/valve opens up to allow the coolant into the radiator for cooling, before it is recirculated.             Powered by the spinning fan shaft, the water pump pulls water into its chamber from the bottom of the radiator. Here it is accelerated by centrifugal force to circulate under pressure, through the water jacket.  The water jackets are the copper-lined passageways that route the coolant to the various parts of the engine for cooling.                   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   A SHARP FIRECRACKER-LIKE SOUND -

This probably means that your engine is backfiring.  Check ignition timing, fuel mixture (too lean) or the rocker arms and valve springs.                   HEAVY MUFFLED SOUND -

Check to make sure the shock absorbers are tightened properly.         A LOW, VIBRATING, HUMMING SOUND -

Probably caused by air passing through vents, etc..        A NOISY VIBRATION, RAPID CLICKING OR A SUCCESSION OF QUICK SOUNDS -

Check to make sure the differential was filled with the proper fluid.  This symptom is most evident while turning.       A HIGH-PITCHED BIRD LIKE SOUND -

When you turn the front wheels as far as they can go.  Check the power steering belt as it is probably loose.               A SLIGHT, SHARP SOUND LIKE THAT OF A DOOR LATCH SNAPPING INTO PLACE -

Rhythmic in nature it probably means the radiator fan blade is bent or damaged and is hitting the fan shield or some other part of the car.

May also mean the CV joint is going out.  If so you will probably hear this sound from one of the front wheels during a turn.

Clicking noise from front of car when braking or turning may indicate worn wheel bearings or loose hubcap(s).

Clicking noise from front of car when driving may indicate worn water pump.           A DULL METALLIC SOUND -

If you detect that the sound is coming from the rear of the car and it remains somewhat steady at low speeds, it may be a problem in the drive-train system.  Possibly the universal joints or something in the differential.

It may also be a cracked or broken motor mount if clunking noise is heard during acceleration.

Clunking noise while braking may indicate worn ball joints.       This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   Usually a filter made of paper designed to trap dust and dirt before it enters your carburetor. The air-fuel ratio is the proportion of air to fuel mixture that is needed for internal combustion.                             A motor that produces current to recharge the battery.          A gauge that measures the amount of electric current traveling through an electrical circuit.   The measurement of electrical intensity.                        A chemical mixture used to lower the freezing point of water.   Jumping of an electrical current across a gap.                  A thermostatically operated instrument designed to automatically control the fuel/air mixture into your carburetor.             A highly synclastic steel ball that distributes and supports weight while at the same time reducing friction between moving parts.                              This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   When buying a used vehicle from an individual, you are buying it without a warranty (e.g. "As Is").  Therefore, in order to protect yourself from buying something that may not be workable or safe, consider having the vehicle inspected by someone who knows cars (possibly a mechanic).  Additionally, if the seller makes specific statements about the vehicle (e.g. rebuilt engine, etc.), be sure to get that information in writing.  For further protection, make sure you get the proper title and registration, a bill of sale, and a copy of all financial transactions.           Buying a used car you are not personally familiar with from a dealer is, most of the time, safer than buying a used car from an individual.  Even though the price of the car will most likely be higher, you will have the protection of the various formal warranties that are enforced by law.  It is very important to research the type of warranties available and what warranties are available for the car you want to buy.  Additionally, because a car is a significant investment it is a good idea to research the particular car dealer using your local Better Business Bureau for an overview of the dealer's reputation.                        The Federal Trade Commission's Used Car Rule requires dealers to display a "Buyer's Guide Sticker" in the window of each used car for sale.  This sticker will tell you whether or not the vehicle comes with a warranty and if it does, what specific protection the dealer will provide.  It will also tell you to have the vehicle inspected by an independent mechanic before you buy it, and get all promises in writing.  Additionally, it should tell you what some of the major problems that may occur in any car.     "As is" is another way of saying THERE IS NO WARRANTY.  Buying a car "as is" means the buyer accepts the car in its current state of mechanical and aesthetic condition, thereby freeing the seller of any responsibility.      "Implied Warranties" exist under all state laws and come with almost every purchase from a used car dealer unless the dealer informs you in writing that implied warranties do not apply.  No limit is placed on implied warranties.  Two common types of implied warranties include the "Warranty of Merchantability" (which means the seller promises that the product will do what it is supposed to do); and the "Warranty of Fitness for a Particular Purpose" (which applies when you buy a vehicle on the advice from the dealer that it is suitable for a particular purpose - e.g. good for hauling wood, etc.)        Some dealers provide what is known as a "Full Warranty".  However, a full warranty need not cover the entire vehicle so it is very important to understand exactly what the dealer is willing to cover when offering it.  A full warranty allows anyone who owns the vehicle during the warranty period full coverage regardless of who may have been the original owner.  All services provided under the warranty are free of charge and include costs such as returning the vehicle or removing & installing a system covered by the warranty.  If a dealer is unable to repair the vehicle or system after a reasonable number of tries, the warranty owner has the choice of replacement or a full refund.  Finally, the full warranty service is provided without requiring the owner to perform any reasonable duty as a precondition for service, except to notify the dealer.          A limited warranty is a warranty offered by a dealer that doesn't meet ALL the criteria of a full warranty.  Be sure to compare the specifics of your particular limited warranty with a full warranty and be aware of what is not covered.                     This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   1. Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary
2. Check tire pressure
3. Check under the hood for gas leaks               1. Check radiator coolant level
2. Check transmission fluid level
3. Check power steering fluid level
4. Check brake fluid level
5. Check your drive belts for wear and proper tension      1. Change engine oil
2. Change oil filter
3. Grease fittings
4. Check hoses under the hood   1. Adjust rear and parking brakes
2. Check steering freeplay
3. Check CV joints
4. Check clutch reservoir                     1. Check brakes for wear
 2. Check emission and ignition systems
 3. Check wheel alignment
 4. Check valves and adjust if necessary
 5. Check front suspension for wear
 6. Change air filter and breather
 7. Change wiper blades
 8. Check exhaust system
 9. Lubricate parking brake cable (before winter)
10. Lubricate car locks with WD-40 (before winter)
11. Check battery and cables
12. Change fuel filter
13. Change points and condenser (if needed)                   1. Change spark plugs
2. Change automatic transmission fluid & filter
3. Check universal joints
4. Change PCV valve
5. Change charcoal canister filter (see owner's manual)
6. Flush radiator                              1. Change radiator cap and pressure test cooling system
2. Change radiator hoses
3. Change drive belts                        (313) 354-1760 (Southfield, Michigan)

Available to assist you on:
   1. Arbitration
   2. Buy-Backs
   3. Repair Reimbursements                           (514) 273-1366 (Montreal, Quebec)

The APA is available to assist you on resolving general car owner problems.                (check your local phone book for number)

Available to assist you on:
   1. Registering a complaint concerning unfair business practices
   2. Arbitration  (202) 328-7700 - 2001 S. Street - Washington D.C.

Available to assist you on obtaining the names of lawyers in your area who handle automobile consumer problems.  Additionally, for under $10.00 they will send you the book called "The Lemon Book".  This book guides you through resolving automobile complaints.        (415) 777-9635 - San Francisco, California

Consumer Actions is available to assist you on resolving general car owner problems.                              (202) 523-3598 - Washington D.C.

Available to assist you on obtaining information on:
   1. Regulations on advertising and credit practices
   2. Unfair/deceptive trade practices in automobile repairs/sales             (800) 221-4954 - New York, NY

They will mail you a FREE booklet on Auto Insurance Basics     (301) 231-5243 - Rockville, Maryland

Available to assist you on:
   1. Arbitration
   2. Buy-Backs
   3. Repair Reimbursements                            NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION
(800) 424-9393 (in Washington D.C. - 366-0123)

The NHTSA provides information on:
   1. Safety recalls
   2. Safety complaints you wish to register
   3. Crash tests
   4. Tire ratings
   5. Call for FREE automobile safety related publications                     (202) 724-6789 - Washington D.C.
Available to assist you on Federal laws concerning new car information labels that should include:
   1. Make
   2. Model
   3. Vehicle Identification Number
   4. Dealer's Name
   5. Cost of All Options
   6. Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This type of coverage pays for damages to your car itself that may have resulted from an accident with another car, animal or thing.                            The "Combined Single Limit" policy is a policy where the maximum coverage you purchase does not specify a limit on any particular loss (e.g. bodily injury or property damage).  For example, if your policy was for $35,000 of coverage, the maximum damage paid for one or all person's injuries and damaged vehicles would be $35,000.

See "Split-Limits Policy"                          This type of insurance pays for damage to your car that results from something other than a collision.  Damage within this category includes things like theft, fire and vandalism.             Liability coverage protects you from lawsuits where bodily harm, property or vehicle damages occur.  Find out what your particular state requires as a minimum and see if that is realistic for you.  If not, you can get more but it will cost more.           This coverage will take care of any medical expenses you incur from an accident despite whose fault it was.  This should cover you, the driver of your car and all of the passengers.  Additionally, on this policy you may purchase options to include funeral expenses, etc..                 This type of coverage gives you protection from uninsured drivers and drivers with insurance policies that only provide minimum coverage.  Additionally, with this type of coverage you may insure your car for more than the book value of your car.           Already required in 26 states, this type of insurance will cover financial losses to you resulting from any accident you are involved in regardless of who is at fault.                         Physical damage insurance contains both collision and comprehensive insurance.                  A "Split-Limits" policy is a policy where fixed costs are paid for both bodily injury (BI) and property damage (PD).  An example of this would be a "15/30/5" policy where the "15" would represent a maximum payment of $15,000 under the (BI) portion for one person's injury.  The "30" would represent a maximum of $30,000 paid for (BI) if two or more people were injured.  Finally, the "5" represents a maximum payment of $5,000 paid for (PD) for damage done to other people's property (car, fences, etc.).

See "Combined Limits Policy"        This covers bodily injury from any accident involving an uninsured driver.  If you don't have this insurance, your injuries will not be covered if you have an accident with an uninsured motorist at fault.  Most companies offer this coverage as part of a package, and you would have to reject this coverage in writing if you don't want it.  There are also options for covering your car by electing "Uninsured Motorist Property Damage (UPMD)" coverage.                              This coverage is similar to uninsured motorist coverage in that it covers damages or injuries above and beyond what a motorist's policy covers, even though the motorist does have a policy.    This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   This feature not available in this demo program.  To order a complete working version, including a detailed manual:

Send $25.00 to N8 Products
1430 Willamette St. #488
Eugene, OR 97401   g action.  Caution - if the engine, for whatever reason, has stalled, do not pump the brakes.  This may deplete any reserve in the vacuum booster and make the situation worse.  To apply what brakes you may have left, push the brake pedal as hard as you can to the floor.                  In both manual and automatic transmissions, you can use engine compression to help slow you down.  In an automatic transmission do not shift into park until you are well below 5 mph.          The hand emergency/parking brake works completely independent from the hydraulic system and will help stop the car.             On some cars equipped with disc brakes, there is a small piece of soft steel that, when brakes are wearing thin, will warn you that the brakes are in need of service and that the pads should be replaced within the next 50 miles.  The brake sensor makes a very high-pitched, irritating squeal that seems to be constant while you are driving.            Dirt or dust in the brake linings can cause a high-pitched noise during actual braking.

NOTE: A mechanic can generally resolve this problem by just air cleaning your brakes.                A grinding metal on metal sound is a sign of real, imminent brake trouble and a very expensive repair job.  The grinding sound is caused by the metal base used to support your brake pad, rubbing directly on your rotor or drum.

NOTE: If you immediately get your brakes serviced when this happens, it may be possible, while the pads are being replaced, to have the damage to the rotor or drum repaired by having them "turned".  This involves turning the damaged part on a lathe and smoothing it out again.  Remember - if the damage is too severe, to the point where "turning" is not a safe intervention, you have an expensive problem on your hands.                       Probably due to leaking hydraulic fluid that may gum up the brake lining.  Hydraulic brake fluid feels like lightweight oil and can usually be found on the inside of the wheel.

NOTE: May involve a damaged booster unit, defective master cylinder or possibly a hole in the brake line.  In any case, take the car to a qualified brake specialist.       When you brake hard, and the nose of the car moves downward, a proportioning valve near the master cylinder redistributes hydraulic pressure from the rear brakes to the front brakes.  If the valve is defective, it may have to be replaced.                  Check your rear tires for tread wear.  Bald tires mean a greater chance of skidding and even cancel out a properly functioning proportioning valve.             Tires have to be identically matched in terms of construction, and similar in wear and tread design, especially on the front two tires.  Remember, pairing a radial ply tire on the same axle with a non-radial ply tire is extremely dangerous.                Check your tire pressure all the way around your car (all four tires), and make sure they are all equal and at the same recommended pressure.                   Wet brakes are dangerous and wet brakes on one side are extremely dangerous, and may cause the car to pull dramatically to one side during braking .

NOTE: If you have driven through water deep enough to wet your brakes, be cautious.                     Check to see that they are properly tightened.                  If the problem continues, it may be one of a number of things, including wheel alignment, mismatched brake linings, improperly adjusted brakes, and other things that should be checked by a qualified brake specialist.        The most common symptom of a clutch going out is called "slippage".  If you begin to experience a kind of racing between the gears during shifting, see a mechanic.                             Don't panic, don't try to free it while you're driving, and don't shut off the engine - this could shut down vital braking and steering systems.  Put the car in neutral (both automatic and standard transmissions) and come to a safe stop.                   Check under the pedal to see if something may have rolled under the pedal to prevent it from moving downward.  Remember, the carpet can sometimes bunch up under the pedal and cause the same problem.                          Check under the hood and examine the accelerator linkage for anything that may impede its function.  This could include anything from a rusty washer to something that may have fallen into the linkage itself.                 Check the pedal itself to make sure it's not binding due to a bent shaft or rust.               Check to make sure the engine mounts are tight.  If not and the engine has moved, even the slightest, it may impede the accelerator linkage.                    Check your power steering belt to make sure it's not broken or not adjusted to the proper tension.                              Although the steering will be tight, it will not harm your car to run without this belt until you can get somewhere and get it replaced.                        Check to make sure the power steering fluid is up to its correct level.                         Looks like transmission fluid (red and oily) and may be the result of a defective or loose-fitting hose.

NOTE: This may be a major expensive problem in a newer car with both rack-and-pinion steering and power assist.  If this is the case, see a qualified mechanic.                     Failure of the power steering pump is rare but it does happen.  See a qualified mechanic if this is the case.                   If left unchecked, a front wheel shimmy can become a very dangerous and expensive problem.  Sometimes, if the shimmy gets bad enough, you may eventually lose a wheel while driving.            Check your front wheel lug nuts and make sure they are tight.  If you lose your lug nuts, you eventually lose your wheel.       Check your tire rims and make sure they are not bent or damaged.  Bent rims throw your car out of balance and may cause the wheel to shimmy.                    Check to see that each of the shock absorbers are correctly attached to the car and are in proper working order.                Check to see that the front wheel bearings are tightened correctly.                             If the front-end is out of balance or the wheels are improperly aligned, you may get a front-wheel shimmy. 

NOTE: This is essentially a quick and inexpensive test and can be performed at most service stations and tire stores.                            At freeway speeds, an unmistakable and persistent vibration can mean trouble.  Slow down immediately to about 25 mph and see a qualified mechanic.  If you suspect the condition of the road surface was not a factor and you are generally a lucky person, it may be as simple as having lost a wheel balance weight.  On the other hand, it may be a major problem with your suspension system.                               Loose or improperly tightened wheel bearings may produce play in your steering.  Check the wheel bearings every time you have your brakes serviced.             Worn wheel bearings may produce steering wheel vibrations.      On some cars equipped with disc brakes, there is a small piece of soft steel that, when brakes are wearing thin, will warn you that the brakes are in need of service and that the pads should be replaced within the next 50 miles.  The brake sensor makes a very high-pitched, irritating squeal that seems to be constant while you are driving.            Dirt or dust in the brake linings can cause a high-pitched noise during actual braking.

NOTE: A mechanic can generally resolve this problem by just air cleaning your brakes.                A grinding metal on metal sound is a sign of real, imminent brake trouble and a very expensive repair job.  The grinding sound is caused by the metal base used to support your brake pad rubbing directly on your rotor or drum.

NOTE: If you immediately get your brakes serviced when this happens, it may be possible, while the pads are being replaced, to have the damage to the rotor or drum repaired by having them "turned".  This involves turning the damaged part on a lathe and smoothing it out again.  Remember - if the damage is too severe, to the point where "turning" is not a safe intervention, you have an expensive problem on your hands.                        Check your front wheel lug nuts and make sure they are tight.  If you lose your lug nuts, you eventually lose your wheel.       Check your tire rims and make sure they are not bent or damaged.  Bent rims throw your car out of balance and may cause the wheel to shimmy.                    Check to see that each of the shock absorbers is correctly attached to the car and is in proper working order.                  Check to see that the front wheel bearings are tightened correctly.                             If the front end is out of balance or the wheels are improperly aligned, you may get a front-wheel shimmy. 

NOTE: This is essentially a quick and inexpensive test and can be performed at most service stations and tire stores.                            Loose or improperly tightened wheel bearings may produce play in your steering.  Check the wheel bearings every time you have your brakes serviced.             Worn wheel bearings may produce steering wheel vibrations.  Additionally, when you see a qualified mechanic, be advised that the problem may involve your transmission going out, or a drive shaft universal joint breaking.    Check the fluid level and make sure it is filled to the full level.                             Red in color and oily, the loss of this fluid may be caused by a problem in a vacuum line, a sensor, or a loose fastener or fitting.                            If the vibrations continue, see a qualified mechanic.           Check your car's steering free play by parking your car on level ground with the wheels centered.  Turn the car off, and lightly (with one finger) move the steering wheel both right and left, noting how much travel you have in the wheel before encountering some resistance.  A safe rule of thumb is approximately one inch.                              1) WORN SHOCKS
2) BAD ALIGNMENT
3) OVER-INFLATED TIRES
4) SEIZED PART WITHIN THE POWER-STEERING BOX
5) FRONT END DAMAGE     Check your power steering fluid and make sure it's at the proper level. Look for leaks.

NOTE: May be a major expensive problem in a newer car with both rack-and-pinion steering and power assist.  If this is the case, see a qualified mechanic.           Lubricate the front end suspension.                             If your front wheel alignment is out of whack it may result in poor steering return.            In cold weather, the fluids used in the front suspension and/or steering box may thicken and retard the normal steering return.  After the engine has heated, the lubricants will become less viscous and resolve the problem.  Check tire pressure all around and make sure all tires are equal and up to the proper pressure. Check to see that the front wheel bearings are tightened correctly.                             Check to see if the brakes are hanging up on one side (dragging).  If necessary have them adjusted or repaired.                 Most cars average only 60 to 70 percent of their EPA claim, so it will probably be difficult, if not impossible, to use that as a standard for comparison.  If after becoming accustomed to your car's usual mileage, you notice a loss in gas mileage, examine the following considerations:   The added friction caused by under-inflated tires will result in greater gas consumption.       Just like under-inflated tires, incorrect wheel alignment will result in increased friction and greater fuel consumption.       Sudden mileage drops may be due to an increase in the fuel to air ratio (a rich mixture).       Check your car's air filter and replace it if it is dirty or damaged.  A dirty or damaged air filter may result in a richer fuel mixture and result in lower gas mileage.                       Requires visual inspection and reference to your car's service manual for expected life of your air filter.  If the filter is older than specified in your service manual, replace it.  If not, inspect it for holes or dirt clogs.  If dirty or damaged, replace it.                           Cars equipped with a deceleration valve for emission control can experience, particularly at slow speeds, stalling, backfiring and rough running if the internal vacuum-sensing diaphragm is damaged.  Additionally, if the failed sensing diaphragm results in a vacuum leak into the manifold, you may experience reduced power, overheating, poor mileage and rough running.                 Hold a rag approximately 12 inches behind your exhaust pipe while your parking brake is on, the car is in neutral, and have someone step on the gas pedal for you.  If there is no evidence of exhaust flow, the exhaust system is blocked and will cause a significant loss of engine power and reduced gas mileage.

NOTE: Check for a foreign body in the tail pipe (mud, etc.). Check for damage that may have been caused by hitting something in the road or a curb.  And finally, remember that using LEADED fuel may plug up your catalytic converter.                                Black smoke usually means the fuel system is in need of adjustment.  This happens when the air/fuel mixture is too rich (too much fuel to air ratio).  Remember, when you are burning "too rich" you are wasting expensive fuel.                                Check the PCV valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve) by grabbing the hose that leads to one of the rocker arm covers.  Unclamp it and shake it; if it rattles, it is OK. If not, replace it.                              Check to make sure both idle speed and fuel mixture are set to your car's specific parameters by referring to your service manual.  Additionally, check for an improperly adjusted carburetor float or oil leaking past valve guides.                           Unlike worn rings, valve guides and seals will allow oil to flow into the cylinders without a noticeable loss of power or compression, however you may notice reduced gas mileage.  See a qualified mechanic.                   If your timing is set too far back it will result in both lower mileage and performance.  Adjust timing to specified parameters.                                If the emission control system is defective or improperly adjusted, it may result in lower gas mileage.                         Check for proper spark delivery. You can do this by removing the cable from the center tower of the distributor cap.  This can be done by gently pulling it from near its base.  Next, hold the wire with a wooden clothespin to keep from getting shocked.  Point it to within a quarter-inch of a clean, bare area.  Have someone start the car briefly.  If both the distributor and the coil are working properly you will see a thick blue spark jump from the cable to your metal target.  Remember - don't hold the wire with your hand or anything else that is not insulated!          Check secondary circuit for spark delivery by removing one spark plug cable at a time and holding it to within a quarter-inch of a clean, bare metal spot.  Check for arcing similar to that of the preceding primary circuit test.  Remember - don't hold the wire with your hand or anything else that is not insulated!      Make sure the ignition timing is set properly.                  Gas leaks are difficult to pinpoint and should involve a qualified mechanic.

In case of an engine fire under your hood, stop your car as soon as possible and turn off the ignition.  This will stop the fuel pump.  Next, get yourself and your passengers out and away from the car, at least 200 feet away.  Call the police or fire department and wait for them to put out the fire.  DANGER! Do not try to open the hood because the increased oxygen may produce an explosive-like flare up and result in great bodily harm. 

NOTE: Remember, both gas and electrical fires cannot be extinguished with water.     Check and re-gap all spark plugs.                               Check to make sure the spark advance mechanisms in the distributor are in order.                In most cars, the temperature gauge measures the temperature of the engine coolant.  Overheating of the engine due to lack of sufficient coolant will result in major/expensive damage.  If the gauge is in or near the danger zone (hot), stop the car immediately and diagnose the problem.   If you break a radiator hose and your engine is up to operating temperature, water will spray out, there will be a lot of steam, and your temperature gauge will scream toward the danger zone.

NOTE: It's a good idea to keep a roll or two of good electrical tape in your trunk to give you an opportunity to do some minor first aid until you can get to a service station and replace that broken hose.  If the leak is not major, you may be able to make it to the next service station by taking off the radiator cap in order to de-pressurize the system.  Warning, the radiator fluid is very hot and under pressure.                            First, check the level of fluid in the radiator.  Caution must be exercised when removing the radiator cap.  Scalding radiator fluid will cause severe burns.   Sediment can damage the thermostat, water pump, and eventually hoses.  Flush the system.        If the cap is defective, it will allow your radiator coolant to boil away and therefore overheat your engine.                   Check the front of the radiator for bugs, leaves, etc. that may be blocking the much-needed air flow for cooling.               Check hoses for obvious cuts and less obvious cracks.  Check the connecting clamps to make sure they are tight.                 Check the fan belt to make sure it has the proper tension.  Caution - some fans come on automatically even if the engine is turned off.                         Check the thermostat and make sure it opens and closes at its rated temperatures.

NOTE:  You can test your thermostat by taking it from the car and into the house where you submerge it in a pan of undiluted antifreeze.  Using a high-temperature thermometer, heat the liquid to within 20 degrees of the opening temperature (stamped on the side of the thermostat). At this point, tap the thermostat with something and it should open at least a quarter-inch.  Now let the liquid cool down.  When the temperature drops 10 degrees below its opening temperature, the valve should close.                         Check to make sure the ignition timing is set to your car's specific parameters.                May be caused by a loose wire, bad motor, blown fuse or a defective sensor.                     Failure to stop may be caused by a shorted sensor and may result in a dead battery.             Check your car owner's manual for the proper parameters.  If the alternator is overcharging, it may damage your battery.  If the alternator is undercharging, it may put excessive demands on the battery and eventually wear it down.                          Check the water level in your battery if it's not a closed cell battery.  Make sure the water level is adequate.  Check for loose or dirty battery cable connections.  Remember, your car's electrical supply is provided by both the battery and the alternator. Once the battery starts the car, the alternator takes over supplying ongoing power.  Readings between 11 and 13 are generally normal; however, consult your owner's manual.                   The function of the ammeter is similar to that of the voltmeter and indicates whether the electrical flow is to or from the battery.  If the ammeter is calibrated "C" for charge, "O" for neutral, and "D" for discharge; and the gauge indicates frequently into the "D" range, see a mechanic.

NOTE: The needle should stay in the charge zone "C" about 90 percent of the time.          Low oil pressure means real problems, expensive and imminent. If the oil pressure gauge reads low, "L", stop the car and arrange for a tow to a qualified mechanic.                             Requires a qualified mechanic because it involves taking the entire engine apart to get to the problem.                         Not quite so involved as a "ring job", but may cost hundreds of dollars.  Involves removing the engine head and the expertise of a qualified mechanic.          Also requires removing the engine head, and using a qualified mechanic.                         Unlike worn rings, valve guides and seals will allow oil to flow into the cylinders without a noticeable loss of power or compression.  See a qualified mechanic.                               There are many different parts of your car that may leak oil, from the oil pan to major and minor gaskets and seals.

NOTE: In many of these instances, stop leak products may do the job for a while by expanding the old gaskets.                           Check your oil level and make sure it's clean and to the proper level.  Too much oil (overfilled) may cause the oil to foam and cause pinging.                  If the engine is hot, a low indication on the oil pressure gauge at idle may be normal.  Consult your owner's manual.           Illumination of the battery light means the battery is no longer getting an electrical charge from your alternator (in newer cars), or your generator (in older cars).                          The car will still operate without the alternator but you need to replace this right away or else your battery will not recharge.                               If you're on the road, don't turn your ignition off.  Your car can run for approximately half an hour without the alternator.  If you turn the car off, you may not get it started again.       The most common reason for this light to illuminate is because the parking brake is still on.   Feels like lightweight oil and can usually be found on the inside of the wheel.  Check the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir under the hood of your car.  The reservoir is calibrated to show you the proper level.

NOTE: May involve a damaged booster unit, defective master cylinder or possibly a hole in the brake line.  In any case, take the car to a qualified brake specialist.                             Essentially all cars have a dual-sump master cylinder that will allow for some braking.  Pump the pedal to check for some braking action.  Caution - if the engine, for whatever reason, has stalled, do not pump the brakes.  This may deplete any reserve in the vacuum booster and make the situation worse.  To apply what brakes you may have left, push the brake pedal as hard as you can to the floor.                  In both manual and automatic transmissions, you can use engine compression to help slow you down.  In an automatic transmission do not shift into park until you are well below 5 mph.          The manual emergency/parking brake works completely independent from the hydraulic system and will help stop the car.           If one of your many electrical items up and fails, it's probably only a fuse.  Check both your owner's manual and the diagram usually located on or near the fuse box to pinpoint the correct fuse.  Take out the fuse you suspect to be the problem and examine it.  If it's burned out, and this should be obvious (by being blackened or the metal wire is severed), replace the fuse with the appropriate "AMP" and the problem should be resolved.         The best bet here is to check your owner's manual.  In older cars (circa 1960's), the systems were vacuum.  In newer cars, (circa 1980's), they are electrical. This is generally an easy one.  First, try cleaning the glass covers on the headlights.  Remember, in the winter, it's probably dirt and muck mixed with a wet road.  In the summer, it's probably an unlucky swarm of bugs.  If it's not a set of dirty lenses, it may be that your beams need adjustment.  This is simple and inexpensive, and may be done at most service stations.          If the problem is intermittent, it's probably a defective dimmer switch and can be replaced for a few dollars.  If it's a total blackout, check your fuse box and headlight bulbs for burn out. This is not a serious problem; however it is uncomfortable.

     * * POSSIBLE CAUSES * * 

1) LOOSE CONNECTION OR FAULTY SWITCH - Look under the dash board for any suspicious hints (loose or broken wires, etc.).  If the switch or fan motor are faulty, they may have to be replaced.  But first, check the fuse.

2) COOLANT LEVEL - Check your antifreeze/coolant level.  If it's low, you may not get any heat.  If your radiator cap is defective, it will allow your radiator coolant to boil away and also not give you any heat.

4) LEAKING HOSES AND CONNECTIONS - Check hoses for obvious cuts and less obvious cracks.  Check the connecting clamps to make sure they are tight.

5) THERMOSTAT - If after the car is warmed up to normal operating temperature and your temperature gauge reads low, it may be a defective or stuck thermostat and should be checked out.  Check the thermostat and make sure it opens and closes at its rated temperatures.

NOTE: You can test your thermostat by taking it from the car and into the house where you submerge it in a pan of undiluted antifreeze.  Using a high-temperature thermometer, heat the liquid to within 20 degrees of the opening temperature (stamped on the side of the thermostat).  At this point, tap the thermostat with something and it should open at least a quarter-inch.  Now let the liquid cool down.  When the temperature drops 10 degrees below its opening temperature, the valve should close.

6) IGNITION TIMING - Check to make sure the ignition timing is set to your car's specific parameters.

7) CLOGGED HEATER CORE - See a mechanic.

8) VACUUM SWITCH - It may be a loose or defective vacuum switch and should be checked out by a mechanic.                  If the horn won't stop, it's possibly due to a closed relay or horn ring switch.  If this happens, try one of these:

1) TURN OFF THE IGNITION
2) PULL OUT THE HORN FUSE
3) PULL THE WIRE THAT LEADS INTO THE HORN ITSELF (THIS IS UNDER THE HOOD AND THERE IS GENERALLY ONLY ONE WIRE GOING INTO THE HORN).
4) REMOVE THE GROUND CABLE FROM THE BATTERY   This is generally caused by a loose switch inside the steering wheel.  This is generally inexpensive and something a qualified mechanic can do quickly.         If the horn refuses to work and you're sure the problem is not intermittent, check your fuse box for a blown fuse.  This is generally caused by a loose switch inside the steering wheel.  This is generally inexpensive and something a qualified mechanic can do quickly.

     * * POSSIBLE CAUSES * * 

1) WIRING - Trace the wire from the horn as far as you can, looking for any bare wire or cracked wire insulation.  If you find any, tape them with electrical tape.

2) LOOSE CONNECTION - Check the connection where the horn wire meets the horn.  Make sure it's not loose.

3) CORROSION - If the horn is not grounded properly, it will not work.  Horns are usually grounded by their contact to the metal surface where they are bolted (NO GROUND WIRE).  If the base of the horn is corroded, the horn is probably not grounded and will not work.  Therefore, it must be cleaned.  You can do this with a wrench and some sandpaper.

4) NONE OF THE ABOVE WORK - If none of the above work, most likely you need a new horn.   Air conditioners are expensive and complicated and should be serviced by a qualified mechanic if the problems are not simple, such as a blown fuse or broken belt.

* * POSSIBLE CAUSES * * 

1) FREON - Periodically, you need to have the Freon system changed.  Loose fittings and seals drying out will eventually drain your system of the Freon needed for heat exchange and the production of cold air.  Remember, you must be very careful any time you are working near your air conditioner.  Freon is extremely cold and can cause serious damage to eyes and hands.

2) ELECTRICAL - A defective switch or thermal limiter may need replacing.  Additionally, internal electrical components may be grounding out somewhere.  In any case, see a qualified mechanic.

3) COMPRESSOR - The most expensive problem you might have is with the compressor.  Should this be the case, have a qualified mechanic troubleshoot the situation before you invest in another compressor.                             Check all of your signal lights.  If none of them are working, check for a blown fuse.  If it's not a fuse problem, check the turn signal bulbs and make sure they are not burned out.  If so, replace them.  Finally, if the lights are all out on just one side of the car, it may be the switch inside the steering column.  If that is the problem, it will need to be replaced.            This is an easy one.  Replace the flasher unit under the dashboard.  Check your owner's manual for its location.                This problem may be caused by either a defective flasher, by a burned out bulb, or a bulb of the wrong size.  Replace the flasher unit under the dashboard.  Check your owner's manual for its location.                        If the turn signal won't clear itself after a turn, or it won't stay on, the problem is a faulty switch.  Repairing this is a good job for a mechanic.          There may be a number of reasons why you're not happy with your wipers, from not working at all to streaking.

     * * POSSIBLE CAUSES * * 

1) WIPER MOTOR WON'T WORK - There may be a number of reasons for this.  First, check the fuse box and hope that the problem is a burned out fuse.  If not, it may involve a short in the system, jammed, burned out motor, or a loose connection.

2) WIPER STREAKING - If the window remains smeared or streaked after each pass of the blade across the windshield, (or the wipers make a squeaking sound), you need new blades.

3) WIPER MISSING SPOTS - If the blade seems to be missing the window in spots, it may be possible to lightly bend the blade arm to conform more snugly to the contour of the window.                       * * POSSIBLE CAUSES * * 

1) FUSE - Check the fuse box and replace appropriate fuse if necessary. 

2) BAD CONNECTION - Check the connection where the defroster wire attaches to the rear grid wire and make sure it is not loose or in need of cleaning.  A bad connection will mean no defrosting.

3) A BROKEN GRID WIRE - A broken grid wire is not impossible but somewhat challenging to replace.  Kits are available, but it does require some talent and dexterity to replace.

4) DEFECTIVE DASHBOARD SWITCH - If after you have checked the above possible causes, you may rightfully deduce a faulty switch.  If this is the case, you may want to have it replaced by a qualified mechanic.           If the radio is totally dead and the radio lights are out, check the fuse box and ground connection.  Additionally, the problems most frequently associated with the radio cutting in and out have to do with either the ground, speaker or antenna connections.  The simplest way to pinpoint these types of problems is using a qualified mechanic with a good knowledge of electrical system troubleshooting.                Sometimes it's nothing more than where you are that creates static.  In the mountains or near electrical power lines, you are probably going to experience some static.  If, however, this does not seem to be the problem, consider:

     * * POSSIBLE CAUSES * *

1) ENGINE OFF - If you continue to get static while the engine is off, it may be due to either a bad connection (check under the dashboard for loose wires), a bad ground at the antenna, or a defective antenna.

2) ENGINE ON - If you don't get static with the engine off but hear it when the engine is on, it may be a static depressor malfunction and will require a trip to a mechanic.                     If it's not a rotten egg, it's the catalytic converter. There is no way around this - that's the smell of a healthy catalytic converter going to work.          Before having your car repaired, check the shop's complaint record with your state or local consumer protection office, or local Better Business Bureau.        Describe the problem(s) you are having with the car as completely as possible.  Tell the mechanic exactly what you want done.   Before you leave the car, make sure the work order reflects what you want done.                 Ask for a written estimate before any major repair work is done.  Make sure the work order says that you must approve additional repair work.                   If additional work is done without your permission, you don't have to pay for the unapproved work, and you have the right to have the bill adjusted.            Ask to inspect and/or keep all replaced parts.                  Keep copies of all work orders and receipts, and get all warranties in writing.                 Many sates have "lemon" laws for new cars that have recurring problems.  Contact your local or state consumer protection office for more details.               