Archive-name: dogs-faq/introduction
Version: 1.0
Last-modified: 17 May 1992

This is one (of eight) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The eight parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu in the
directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, training, working, AKC-titles, misc1,
and references.  To obtain the files, first try ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp does not
work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
...etc, in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).

Changes and additions indicated with |'s.

I.  Introduction

  A.  Introduction to rec.pets.dogs.
  B.  FAQ's for rec.pets.dogs.
  C.  Acronyms.
  D.  Abbreviations.
  E.  Glossary.
  F.  Kennel Clubs.
  G.  Acknowledgements.


A.  Introduction to rec.pets.dogs.

Rec.pets.dogs is a newsgroup devoted to domestic canine issues.  This
group can be friendly and helpful.  Flamewars are generally limited to
several topics: crating dogs, training by the Koheler method, docking
and cropping, animal rights activism, wolf hybrids and pit-bull (or
other breed) dog bans.  New readers are advised against starting these
topics up on the newsgroup as long, protracted, and inflammatory
discussions often ensue.  The facts pertaining to these controversial
topics are covered in the FAQ's.  This is not to say that these topics
are forbidden from discussion on rec.pets.dogs, but that readers would
greatly appreciate it if you checked out what the FAQ had to say on
them to make sure you have something new to contribute.

This newsgroup was formed in the summer of 1991.  It is a splinter
group from rec.pets, which originally carried the canine as well as
other topics.  Joe DiBenedetto proposed the split and collected the
votes, which proved more than enough for its official creation.

Michael Mahler attempted a FAQ in 1991 that consisted of compiled but
unedited articles saved from the net.  Due to time constraints, he
gave up the project, and I received copies of the articles that he had
saved and incorporated much of them in here from other readers.  I
have heard of other attempts at FAQ's well, but no real details.

1.  Charter

There exists no official charter for this group.  However,
unofficially, this group exists to discuss anything related to
canines.

2.  Asking questions

By all means, ask questions on this newsgroup, that's what this is
for.  Most of us are more than happy to help you out.  There are some
things you might want to keep in mind, though:

Is it a frequently asked question?  If you have a question about
housetraining, for example, you might find the answer in one of the
group's FAQ.  It's entirely possible you have a question not covered
in the FAQ, but it helps to check first.

Are you giving us enough information?  Sometimes people ask brief
questions that don't get the responses they wanted.  This is often
because the brevity of the question leads many readers to infer other
possibilities.  In particular, questions like "I want a dog that stays
outside," "I want a dog for the kids, what's a good one," "I want a
dog for protection" will generate many followups that are concerned
with whether or not you really should get a dog, along with
recommendations of books that you should read first.  If you've
already done your homework, by all means, take the extra time to
describe that in your request so that you can get more useful
responses.


B.  FAQ's for rec.pets.dogs.

1.  Eight monthly posted FAQ's

There are eight FAQ's, split up by topic rather than by length.  All
eight are posted regularly.  The first one, "Introduction," is this
file, which gives a brief description of this group, details common
acronyms, includes a glossary, describes several national kennel
clubs, and thanks the people who made this all possible.  The second,
"New Owners, New Dogs," is aimed at new dog owners and puppies.  Thus
it contains information on the needs of puppies and helps the new or
inexperienced owner get started.  The third, "Health Care Issues," is
a good look at canine health, including diseases (prevention,
treatment and prognosis), poisons, medication, etc.  The fourth FAQ,
"Dog Behavior, Problems and Training," outlines the way dogs think and
presents common behavioral problems along with suggested constructive
solutions.  In addition, it dicusses training methods, communication
with your dog, and suggests ways for teaching basic commands.  The
fifth FAQ, "Companion and Working Dogs" covers the amazing variety of
things that dogs can do.  The sixth, "American Kennel Club Titles,"
covers AKC test requirements and discusses showing.  It also briefly
discusses breed clubs and titles obtainable through other clubs.  The
seventh FAQ, "Assorted Topics," contains a variety of topics that did
not fit any particular theme, such as wolf-hybrids, breeding, and
allergies.  The last and eighth FAQ is a simple compendium of the
references that are liberally sprinkled throughout the other FAQ's,
plus additional books, articles, catalogues, mail-order companies and
organizations.

There is certainly room for more FAQ's -- the world of dog fanciers is
a wide one indeed!  In general, I welcome suggestions on ways to
improve FAQ's or construct new ones.  I am particularly appreciative
of written-up contributions.  The format of the FAQ's has been chosen
in particular to provide individually useful files.  Each of the files
is also less than 65K (or they are as close as possible) in order to
meet mailer standards.  Most mailers can handle 100K or more, but
there are some out there that have a limit of 65K, so I tried to
accomodate those.  At this point, it looks like I may put together
a second part to the Assorted Topics FAQ unless I can think of a
way to regroup them under something more specific.

2.  Table of contents across the FAQ's

I.  Introduction

  A.  Introduction to rec.pets.dogs.
  B.  FAQ's for rec.pets.dogs.
  C.  Acronyms.
  D.  Abbreviations.
  E.  Glossary.
  F.  Kennel Clubs.
  G.  Acknowledgements.

II.  New Owners, New Dogs.

  Prologue.
  A.  What Kind of Dog?
  B.  What are My Responsibilities?
  C.  Where?
  D.  Veterinarians.
  E.  Puppies.
  F.  Puppy-Proofing Your Home.
  G.  Feeding Your Puppy.
  H.  Teething.
  I.  Chew Toys.
  J.  Preliminary Training.
  K.  Socialization of Puppies.
  L.  Housetraining Your Puppy.
  M.  Living with Other Pets.
  N.  People Food.
  O.  Crating.

III.  Health Care Issues

  Prologue
  A.  In General.
  B.  Dental Care.
  C.  Trimming Nails.
  D.  Neutering.
  E.  Bathing.
  F.  Skin Problems.
  G.  Vaccinations.
  H.  Canine Ailments.
  I.  Disease Transmission (Zoonoses).
  J.  Worms.
  K.  Pills and Dosing.
  L.  Vomiting.
  M.  Poisons.
  N.  Aging.

IV.  Dog Behavior, Problems and Training.

  A.  Understanding Your Dog.
  B.  Principles Behind Dominance.
  C.  Dominance Problems.
  D.  Housetraining Problems.
  E.  Submissive Urination.
  F.  Other Common Problems.
  G.  Comments on Obedience Training
  H.  Attention.
  I.  Corrections.
  J.  Using Food.
  K.  Training and Corrective Collars.
  L.  Learning to Sit.
  M.  Down, Stay, Off.
  N.  Heeling.
  O.  Learning Recall.
  P.  Beyond Basic Obedience.

V.  Companion and Working Dogs.

  A.  Dogs for the Blind.
  B.  Hearing and Signal Dogs.
  C.  Canine Companions for Independence.
  D.  Search and Rescue Dogs.
  E.  Water Rescue Dogs.
  F.  Narcotics and Evidence Dogs.
  G.  Schutzhund.
  H.  Police Dogs.
  I.  Sled Dogs.
  J.  Gaming Dogs.

VI.  American Kennel Club Titles

A.  Showing.
B.  Conformation.
C.  Field.
D.  Obedience.
E.  Herding.
F.  Championships.
G.  Other AKC Titles.
H.  Breed Clubs.
I.  Other Organizations.

VII.  Assorted Topics.

  A.  Docking and Cropping.
  B.  Travel and International Travel.
  C.  Fleas and Ticks.
  D.  Removing Odors and Stains.
  E.  Owner Allergies.
  F.  A New Baby.
  G.  Breeding.
  H.  Facts and Opinions about Neutering.
  I.  Finding a Home for a Dog.
  J.  Record Keeping.
  K.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.
  L.  Pet Doors.
  M.  Pet Insurance.
  N.  Pet Identification and Theft.

VIII.  References.

  A.  Books.
  B.  Articles.
  C.  Companies and Catalogues.
  D.  Magazines.
  E.  Organizations.

3.  FAQ's for particular breeds

In addition to these monthly posted FAQ's, there are available FAQ's
for specific breeds.  These are posted rarely, perhaps once or twice a
year.  They are available via anonymous ftp to pit-manager.mit.edu
under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/<breed>.  For the exact file
name, check the name in parentheses after the breed.  If you do not
have anonymous ftp, send email to mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with
"send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/<breed>" in the subject line,
leaving the message body empty.  For example, to reference
Bloodhounds, you would use ".../dogs-faq/bloodhounds".  (Do not
include the quotes in your query.)

If you do not see your favorite breed below, send me email if you want
to put one together yourself!  (Addresses are at the end of this
post.)  I only wrote one of these, as a guide for the rest of them.
These FAQ's have been contributed by fellow rec.pets.dogs readers.

Currently, FAQ's are available for:

Bloodhounds (bloodhounds).
Collies (collies).
Labradors (labradors).

C.  Acronyms.

New readers frequently have trouble understanding the acronyms that
have developed in this group.  Other acronyms are widely used among
dog fanciers.

A partial listing (feel free to send in contributions):

1.  General acronyms

AHBA    American Herding Breeds Association.
ASCA:   Australian Shepherd Club of America
AKC:    American Kennel Club.
ALF:    Animal Liberation Front (USA animal rights activist group).
BIS:    Best in Show.
BOB:    Best of Breed (male or female).
BOS:    Best Opposite Sex (to BOB).
BW:     Best of Winners.
CEA:    Collie Eye Anomaly.
CERF:   Canine Eye Registration Foundation: registers "normal eyed dogs".
CHD/HD: Hip Dysplasia.
CKC:    Canadian Kennel Club.
CPI:    Canine Parainfluenza.
CPV:    Canine Parvovirus.
DHLPP:  Distempter, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus shot
FDSB:   Field Dog Stud Book; a registry of pointing dogs published by the
        American Field Publishing Company.  Many pointing dogs are dual
        registered AKC/FDSB.
GSD:    German Shepherd Dog.
IM(H)O: In My (Honest/Humble) Opinion.
KC:     Kennel Club (of Great Britain).
KPC/T:  Kindergarten Puppy Class/Training.
OES:    Old English Sheepdog.
OFA:    Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (hip certification).
PETA:   People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (USA animal rights
        activist group).
PRA:    Progressive Retinal Atrophy.
ROM:    Register of Merit, awarded by parent clubs of specific breeds.
RWB:    Reserve Winner's Bitch.
RWD:    Reserve Winner's Dog.
UKC:    United Kennel Club.
WB:     Winner's Bitch.
WD:     Winner's Dog.
WH:     Wolf Hybrids.

2.  Titles

CD:     (AKC) Companion Dog.
CDX:    (AKC) Companion Dog Excellent.
UD:     (AKC) Utility Dog.
OTCH:   (AKC) Obedience Trial Champion.

JH:     (AKC) Junior Hunter.
SH:     (AKC) Senior Hunter.
MH:     (AKC) Master Hunter.

TD:     (AKC) Tracking Dog.
TDX:    (AKC) Tracking Dog Excellent.

UDT:    (AKC) Utility Dog Tracking.

HT:	(AKC) Herding Tested.
PT: 	(AKC) Pre-Trial Tested.
HS:	(AKC) Herding Started.
HI:	(AKC) Herding Intermediate.
HX:	(AKC) Herding Excellent.
HCH: 	(AKC) Herding Champion.

FC:     (AKC) Field Champion.
AFC:    (AKC) Amateur Field Champion.
NFC:    (AKC) National Field Champion.
NAFC:   (AKC) National Amateur Field Champion.

CGC:    (AKC) Canine Good Citizen.

HIC, HC (AHBA) Herding [Instinct] Certified.

CH:     Champion, usually with country in front of it, e.g., Br. CH, Am.
        CH, Can. CH.  (AKC Champion of Record).

Sch I,
II, III (Schutzhund) consecutive working titles
FH:     (Schutzhund) Fahrtenhund (advanced tracking title, comparable to TDX)
AD:     (Schutzhund) Ausdauer (endurance test)
VB:     (Schutzhund) Traffic Secure.

TT:     (American Temperament Test Society) Temperament test.

STD:    (ASCA) Started Trial Dog (s/d/c suffix: sheep, ducks, cattle).
OTD:    (ASCA) Open Trial Dog (same suffixes).
ATD:    (ASCA) Advanced Trial Dog (same suffixes).

HR:     (UKC) Hunter Retriever
HRCH:   (UKC) Hunter Retriever Champion
GR HRCH:(UKC) Grand Hunter Retriever Champion

TDI:    Therapy Dogs International


D.  Abbreviations

Dobie: Dobermann Pinscher.
Golden: Golden Retriever.
Lab, esp. Yellow/Black Lab: Labrador Retriever.
Mal: Alaskan Malamute.
Newfie: Newfoundland.
Parvo: Canine Parvovirus.
Rottie: Rottweiler.
Sheltie: Shetland Sheepdog.
Sib: Siberian Husky.


E.  Glossary

alpha: Dogs recognize intricate social hierarchies.  The one "on top"
is "alpha."  Alpha can also be relative, denoting which of a pair of
dogs dominates the other.  Packs include humans where applicable, and
owners should always be alpha to their dogs.

bitch: A female dog.  Not used in a derogatory sense.

bitchy: A male dog showing female characteristics (e.g., in size
and weight).

bloom: Glossiness of coat.

brace: A pair of dogs.

brisket: Front of chest between forelegs.

brood bitch: Female used for breeding.

coupling: That part of the body between the shoulders and hips; some
dogs are short coupled and others are longer coupled (aka "standing
over more ground").

crabbing: A dog that moves toward you with its body at an angle
rather than straight on.  Also called side-wheeling or side-winding.

croup: The portion of the back directly above the hind legs, before
the tail.

dam: The female parent.

dewclaws: Rudimentary toes often removed shortly after birth.

dewlap: The skin on the throat.

dish faced:  Where the tip of the nose is higher than the stop.

dog: 1.  Any dog, male or female.  2. A male dog, especially when used
in conjunction with bitch.

doggy: A female dog showing male characteristics, especially in weight
and size.

eyeteeth: The upper canines.

flews: Pendulous upper lips.

heat: The mating period for bitches.

hocks:  The joints above the pasterns of the legs.

pad: The cushioned part of the foot.

pastern: The part of the leg below the knee in rear legs.

Schutzhund: A German-developed training regimen for protective work
used world-wide.  Only strong, determined, and aggressive dogs do well
with Schutzhund.  Both dogs and bitches have been trained in
Schutzhund.  German Shepherd Dogs are traditionally associated with
Schutzhund, but medium to large dogs of any breed may be so trained.

second thigh: The area of the hindquarters between the hock and the
stifle.

septum: The vertical line between the nostrils.

show dog: A dog bred for conformation to its breed standard and shown
in competition on that basis.

sire: The male parent.

stifle: The upper joint of the rear legs, corresponding to humans' knees.

stop: The point between a dog's eyes.

stud: Male dog used for breeding.

withers: The highest point of the shoulders, right behind the neck.


F.  Kennel Clubs.

(condensed from _Reader's Digest Illustrated Book of Dogs_., pgs 368-377)

There are organizations set up around the world for animals.  Although
the character of each differs, the basic responsiblities of a kennel
club include:

  * Recognizing breeds.  The criteria for being recognized varies a
    great deal from country to country.

  * Maintaining breed registries.  Issues certificates of registration
    to owners of dogs that qualify.

  * Compiling stud books.  Traces ancestries of registered dogs as far
    back as records have been kept for that breed.

  * Establishing breed standards.  Publishes descriptions of the ideal
    dog for each breed, to help with judging breeds in show.

  * Sponsoring dog shows and trials.  Enforces procedures to be
    followed to insure merited reception of awards.

  * Approval of judges, and judging procedures.  Sets standards of
    knowledge for a judge.

Often, national kennel clubs accept as members or affiliates canine
clubs devoted to particular breeds that sponsor their own
competitions.  Other independent clubs set their own breed standards.

Although show trials are the most common, where a dog's appearance is
the sole criterion for awards, outdoor competition is also popular:
hunting, tracking, obedience, herding, and lure-coursing are some of
the alternatives.  In these only performance counts.

1.  American Kennel Club

AKC
51 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10010

2.  Australian National Kennel Council

ANKC
Administrative Buildings
Royal Showgrounds, Ascot Vale
3032,  Victoria

Each of the eight Australian states/territories has its own canine
club, but the controlling body is ANKC.  Established in 1958, its
objective is to propose uniform policies and procedures for all of
Australia, although member clubs are not compelled to adopt any of the
procedures.  There are only minor administrative differences, however,
and champions in one state are recognized as such in others.

Major Australian show classes are
  Baby puppies (4-6 mos)
  Minor puppies (6-9 mos)
  Puppy class (6-12 mos)
  Junior class (6-18 mos)
  Intermediate class (18mos to 3yrs)
  Australian-bred class (6mos and over, born in Australia)
  Open class (any dog, generally 1yr and over)

Ear cropping is illegal in Australia, and ANKC considers dogs with
cropped ears ineligible for registration.

The judging system is based on points, accumulated from being judged
Best of Sex; the number of points reflects the number of competitors
over which the dog won (with minimum and maximum limits).  Dogs are
judged by breed standards established by the Kennel Club (Britain),
except for breeds of Australian origin.  Highest title: Breed Champion.

ANKC groups:
  Toy
  Sporting terrier
  Gun dog
  Hound
  Working
  Utility
  Non-sporting

3.  Canadian Kennel Club

CKC
89 Skyway Avenue
Rexdale, Ontario M9W 6R4

The club was formed in 1888 when Canadians became determined to have
their own club after AKC's four year inclusion of Canada in its
beginning.  The two clubs have worked closely together since then, e.g.,
reciprocal recognition of each other's stud books and judges.  There
are similar judging systems, many common regulations, and most of the
same breed standards.

The judging system is based on points.  A dog must accumulate 10
points under at least three different judges at shows held under CKC
regulations.  Points are awarded based on the number of dogs in
competition and handed to each Best of Sex winner.  Up to five
additional points may be awarded should the dog then place in its
group or win Best in Show.

Unusually among kennel clubs, the CKC is responsible to the federal
government in registering its dogs.  Selling a pure-bred puppy without
first registering it carries penalties.  Pedigreed dogs must be
identified on registration forms by either tattoo or noseprint.

CKC groups
  Sporting
  Hound
  Working
  Terrier
  Toy
  Non-sporting
  Herding
  Miscellaneous

4.  Fe'de'ration  Cynologique Internationale

FCI
Rue Le'opold-II
14B-6530 Thuin
Belgium

The FCI is a world-wide federation of national dog clubs.  Its
objective is to bring about international standards in the breeding,
exhibiting, and judging of purebreds.

Founded in 1911, it was originally European -- claiming membership
from France, Belgium, Germany, Austria, and Holland.  Today,
membership includes representatives from 19 European countries as well
as several from Latin America, Asia, and Africa.  Another 11 countries
are affiliated (including Britain and South Africa).

FCI automatically recognizes the breeds of member countries -- hence
it recognizes over 300 breeds.  Breed standards approved by FCI are
drawn up from the country of origin, helping to keep those standards
uniform.  Member countries may refuse to register dogs showing genetic
flaws or non-conformation to standards; this helps eliminate
hereditary defects.

FCI hosts two types of shows: national and international.  The country
in which the show is held determines the judging system.
International titles: International Working Trial Champion, and
International Beauty Champion, both based on accumulating aptitude
certificates and prizes in several countries under several judges.
Difficulties are encountered by various quarantines of some of the
countries.

FCI groups:
  Shepherd Dogs
  Watch Dogs and Working Dogs
  Terriers
  Dachshunds
  Hounds for Big Game
  Hounds for Small Game
  Pointers (except British breeds)
  British Gun Dogs
  Fancy Dogs
  Greyhounds

5.  Kennel Club (Britain)

The Kennel Club
1-5 Clarges Street
London W1Y 8AB

The Kennel Club was formed in 1873.  Its objective is to bring under
central authority various canine clubs to ensure uniform standards,
rules, and procedures, as well as a comprehensive registry for all
breeds.  There are more than 1,700 member clubs in The Kennel Club
today.  The Kennel Club has reciprocal arrangements with more than 40
national clubs and is an associate member of FCI.

The KC does not recognise Schutzhund.  To gain a KC studbook number a
dog must get a first, second or third prize in the Limit or Open Class
at a Championship show or a CC or RCC.

The British title Champion (bench) is generally considered the most
difficult to obtain.  The dog must earn three Challenge Certificates
from three different judges (one out of puppy class). Some breeds,
those on the import register do not have CC's.  -- but CC's are
sharply limited, and even if Best of Sex is won, the judge may
withhold a CC.  It may take years to obtain the title.

Kennel Club groups
  Hound
  Gun dog
  Terrier
  Utility
  Working
  Toy

6.  Kennel Union of Southern Africa

KUSA
Box 2659
Cape Town 8000
South Africa

Organized in 1895 to unite all the kennel clubs in South Africa, KUSA
is composed of some 150 affiliated clubs.  Most of KUSA's approved
standards are from Britain's Kennel Club.  Deviations or omissions
from the KC generally follow FCI standards instead.  Of FCI members,
KUSA is the most closely associated club.  A total of 181 dogs are
recognized by KUSA.

KUSA groups
  Hound
  Gun dog
  Terrier
  Utility
  Working
  Toy

7.  New Zealand Kennel Club

NZKC
Private Bag
Porirua

Operates virtually identically to ANKC; breed standards and rules are
the same.  There is no quarantine between Australia and New Zealand
(unless recently imported from elsewhere).

8.  United Kennel Club [USA]

A smaller kennel club in the US, with an emphasis on working
competitions.


G.  Acknowledgements.

I would like to thank the following people who took the time to send
me their comments.  Many of them contributed substantial material for
this FAQ.  Some contributed unknowingly, as I lifted their posts
directly from the newsgroup, or obtained them from summaries kept by
other people.

Thanks to: Ed Anderson, David Austin, Chris Barnes, Marla Belzowski,
Rachel Bereson, Mike Berger, Heike Berlind, Kathy Buetow, Matthew W.
Blake, Wade Blomgren, Mary Blumenstock, Dag Bruck, Nancy Bulinski,
Robin Bush, Alex Campbell, Jose' J. Capo', John Chandler, Bill Chapp,
Jason Chen, Joseph T. Chew, Bill Chiachiaro, Mike Clark, James R.
Coggins, Dale Cook, Deborah J. Cooper, Steve Crumley, Schalene
Dagutis, Brad Davidson, Barbara Davis, Jack Dean, Len DePalma, Len
DeRoeck, Dennis Doubleday, Kim Dyer, Damon Feldman, Lindy Fleck,
Debbie Forest, Dan Fowler, Del Fredricks, Carole Susan Fungaroli, Neal
Gaborno, Michael Garzione, geschwent@vax.muskingum.edu, Rob G. Glenn,
Robin Goldstone, Jim Graham, Marsha Jo Hannah, R. Hardin, Sharon
Hasting, John Heim, Julie Hill, R. G. Hoff, Sue Utter Honig, Terry
Hull, Sally A. Hundley, John Interrante, Marget Johnson, Debbie Keyes,
Joyce Andrews King, Erich Klinghammer, Rich Kulawiec, Kimberly Laird,
Karina Laramie, Stephen N. Larson, Stephen R. Lee, William LeFebvre,
David E. Levy, Marian McKenzie, Meg McRoberts, Ellen M. McSorley,
Michael Mahler, Douglas Merrill, Steve Michelson, Liza Miller, Carol
Miller-Tutzauer, William L. Millios, Wendy Milner, Maralee Morado,
Kathy Moser, S. Mudgett, Lily Mummert, Anne Myers, Victoria Neff,
Barbara A. Neves, Devon Nichols, David Northrop, Eugina M. Novak, Jeff
Parke, Brian Pawlowski, Jill N. Pappenhagen, Jon Pastor, David Prager,
Nancy Rabel, Margaret F. Riley, Nancy Roberts, Garth Robinson, Kevin
Rodgers, Sue Sanvido, Debra R. Schneider, Michael Sierchio, Brian
Wesley Simmons, Susan B. Sinnott, Michele Smith, Charlie Sorsby,
Thomas A. Spraggins, Orca Starbuck, Renee Strong, Alison Suggs, Karl
Swartz, Laura Toms, David C. Tuttle, Esa Viitala, Kathy Vineyard,
Michael Wagner, Joseph Weinstein, Sara Weinstein, John Wells, Mary Ann
Wells, Kathy Wilk, Stewart Winter, Rusty Wright, and Jeff Young.

Extra thanks to Marla Belzowski, Stephen R. Lee, Liza Miller, Lily
Mummert, Michael Sierchio, Charlie Sorsby, and Rusty Wright for
extensive editorial comments and a wealth of contributions.

----------------
This file is not copyrighted.  It is in the public domain and may
*not* be copyrighted by anyone.  Please feel free to forward copies of
this to anyone you like.  I only ask that you keep the document
intact, including the addresses below so that any recipient knows
where to query about possible updates.  Include a self addressed,
stamped envelope on postal queries.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@ics.uci.edu  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716

Archive-name: dogs-faq/new
Version: 1.0
Last-modified: 17 May 1992

This is one (of eight) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The eight parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu in the
directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, training, working, AKC-titles, misc1,
and references.  To obtain the files, first try ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp does not
work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
...etc, in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).

Changes and additions indicated with |'s.

II.  New Owners, New Dogs.

  Prologue.
  A.  What Kind of Dog?
  B.  What are My Responsibilities?
  C.  Where?
  D.  Veterinarians.
  E.  Puppies.
  F.  Puppy-Proofing Your Home.
  G.  Feeding Your Puppy.
  H.  Teething.
  I.  Chew Toys.
  J.  Preliminary Training.
  K.  Socialization of Puppies.
  L.  Housetraining Your Puppy.
  M.  Living with Other Pets.
  N.  People Food.
  O.  Crating.




Prologue.

A quick critical information list:

  * Never hit a young puppy.
  * Praise exuberantly.
  * Be consistent with your dog, rather than harsh.
  * Don't allow biting, but only correct after 14 weeks (yelp and
    replace hand with toy before that)
  * Never correct a dog after the fact.
  * Dogs need new experiences with other people, dogs and places,
    when very young to get socialized.
  * Praise exuberantly.
  * Dogs need successes and less correction before full maturity
    so they can develop confidence.
  * Train your dog in order to establish communication and give it
    purpose, and make it tolerable.
  * Dogs need to be in a dominance hierarchy with everyone; if you
    are not above your dog, you will be below it.
  * Praise exuberantly.
  * Dominance over a dog is achieved with leadership, never
    harshness.

The very *best* of the recommended books are the Monks of New Skete books.


A.  What Kind of Dog?

1.  Factors to consider

There is an enormous variety of dogs in shape, size, personality, and
abilities.  Different breeds will have certain characteristics for
which they were bred.  Ask breeders at dog shows and look them up in
breed books for further information.  You must consider several things
before deciding on a dog:

 * What space can you provide it?  If you live in a small apartment,
   you must take this into consideration: larger breeds and active
   breeds will not do well unless you expend a good deal of effort in
   meeting their needs.  Larger dogs may also be more destructive in
   smaller spaces, even unintentionally with wagging tails.  Dogs can
   be pretty adaptable so long as *you* help them out.  Large dogs can
   do well in smaller areas if you make sure that its needs are met.

 * How much exercise can you give it?  If your time is limited, you
   should look for smaller or less active dogs that can obtain enough
   exercise in your home or from short walks.

 * How much training and time can you invest in it?  Regardless of the
   dog you get, training will make your dog much more compatible with
   you and what you want to do.  A trained dog can go to more places
   with you without disruption, and can be more easily a part of your
   life.

 * How much grooming can you do?  How much hair are you prepared to
   have in your home?  You should give serious consideration to these
   factors: some dogs shed little and require no grooming (clipping,
   stripping, etc); others shed little but require more grooming;
   others shed but do not require grooming; and still others both shed
   and require grooming.  Do note that just about all dogs will
   require some nail clipping regardless of conditions.

 * Which sex do you want, male or female?  There are pros and cons
   to either sex, all of which are generalities and may or may not
   apply to a specific dog.  By all means, if you have a preference,
   get the sex you want.  If you are not sure, it really doesn't
   matter -- look for the dog you hit it off with.

 * What characteristics do you want in a dog?  Different breeds have
   been bred with specific purposes in mind.  Dogs bred for scent, for
   racing, for retrieving, etc, will exhibit these regardless.
   Consider which characteristics you would like and which will annoy
   you.  Reading up on dogs in breed books (some are listed below) and
   talking to breeders will give you some idea of these kinds of
   characteristics.  This also may be a reason to choose a purebred:
   characteristics in purebreds appear more reliably because of their
   consistent breeding.  Do recognize, however, that dogs show
   individual personalities, and variety exists within each breed.
   Breeds are only a general indicator of what to expect.

 * Why are you getting the dog?  Its personality should complement
   yours and be suitable for the purpose for which you are getting it:
   pet, companion, or working dog.  Pets are dogs from which there are
   no expectations beyond "good behavior" (no jumping, etc) and
   friendship.  Companions are dogs that assist people or work closely
   with them (examples are Guide dogs, or dogs going through Obedience
   and other testing).  Working dogs are dogs whose primary purpose is
   to work (police dogs, search dogs, sled dogs, Guide dogs also
   qualify, but their work also involves intense companionship, so it
   overlaps).  Some dogs are fine as pets, others do much better as
   companions, and still others have levels of energy and
   determination best met by utilizing them as working dogs.

When selecting a breed ask about: propensity to bark, to dig,
protectiveness, trainability, activity level, adult size,
hard-headedness, suitability for less experienced owners.  Good dog
breed books can give you some idea; always ask any breeders you meet
what their opinion is for more input.

2.  Purebred or random-bred dogs

If you are interested in a purebred dog, you should pick up a book on
dog breeds (most libraries will have a good selection) and do some
research, with the above questions in mind.  There are some
breed-specific FAQ's listed in the Introduction.

If the dog's breed is not important to you, you should still consider
the above factors when choosing the dog.  You do face a few more
unknowns since a random-bred puppy (e.g., a "mutt") may or may not
clearly exhibit what its adult characteristics will be.

3.  Books

Listed here some good references on dog breeds; others appear in the
References section.  In addition, there are many that are specific to
one breed.  Space prohibits listing any of these type of dog books
here, but you should look up breed specific books on the breeds you
are especially interested in for even more detailed information.  The
breed specific FAQ's mentioned in the introduction will contain
recommended pointers.

De Prisco, Andrew and James B. Johnson.  _The Mini-Atlas of Dog
Breeds_. TFH Publications, One TFH Plaza, Neptune City, NJ 07753
(1990).  ISBN:0-86622-091-7 (hardcover).
  This book lists and describes over 500 breeds from around the world.
  Abundantly illustrated with color drawings and photos.  Includes a
  short forward on what criteria you should consider in choosing a
  breed, and a short description of the categories it chose to group
  dogs in (slightly different from, eg. AKC groupings).

Tortora, Daniel F.  _The Right Dog For You_.  Fireside, Simon &
Schuster Trade Books. 1983.  ISBN 0-671-47247-X.
     Offers a complex decision procedure, with lots of questionnaires
     to alert you to the potential significance of various features of
     breed behavior and physical characteristics.  One of the few
     that lists potential problems of each breed rather than giving
     a glowingly positive one for each.

Wilcox, Bonnie and Chriss Walkowicz.  _Atlas of Dog Breeds_.  TFH
Publications.
  Over 900 pages long in large format.  The authors are top notch
  writers and did extensive research to compile this comprehensive
  resource of the world's dog breeds.  The book is profusely
  illustrated with excellent quality photographs and a 3-5 page
  article.  This book makes a good effort to show every color and
  every coat type of each breed in the various photos.  Expensive.

Mandeville, John J., and Ab Sidewater, eds.  _The Complete Dog Book:
official publication of the American Kennel Club_.  Seventeenth
edition.  Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Company, New York.
1985.  ISBN 0-87605-463-7.  768 pages.
  This is the reference for the AKC breed standards, each of which
  covers several pages and includes a black and white photograph and
  text on the breed's history, characteristics, and nature.  The
  health section is not illustrated, but is otherwise excellent as it
  was prepared with the cooperation of the faculty of the School of
  Veterinary Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania. Potential
  buyers of this book probably ought to wait for the next edition,
  since it is now seven years old and new editions have been published
  every three years (on average).

Sylvester, Patricia, ed.  _The Reader's Digest Illustrated Book of Dogs_.
Revised edition.  The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.,
Pleasantville, NY.  1989.  ISBN 0-89577-340-6.  384 pages.
  Besides the excellent text and illustrations in the album, which
  cover 2 pages for each breed (175 total), the informative sections
  are also well-written and illustrated and include many color
  photographs as well. This is a good general reference on dogs, and
  is especially helpful when choosing a breed to own.  The health
  chapters are invaluable to non-veterinarian owners.


B.  What are My Responsibilities?

There are responsibilities that go along with being a good dog owner.
A dog will live from 10 to 20 years, depending on its breed, size and
general health.  This is a long term commitment, and you must be ready
to provide the dog with a home for that duration.  You must make
provisions for it when you go on vacation.  It needs attention, love,
and respect from you: feeding and watering it are not enough.
Consider it part of your family: this is no joke as that is exactly
what the dog thinks YOU are: its pack, its family.

1.  You are responsible for...

(1) You are responsible for its health.  An essential part of owning a
dog is making sure that it gets good medical care.  Check the vets in
your area and pick out one before you even get your dog.  Take your
dog in to the vet immediately after acquiring it and take it in
regularly thereafter.  You will have expenses for yearly shots and, in
many areas, heart-worm preventive.  Puppies and dogs routinely die
without adequate veterinary care.

(2) If you get your dog for protection, you are obligated to make sure
that it is safe, reliable, and trustworthy around people.  Never chain
it up in the back yard, or encourage it to snarl and bite other
people.  Never try to make a dog "vicious."  Such irresponsible
treatment results in tragic stories of children and adults being
mauled or even killed, the dog being put down, and various dog bans
being enacted.  A dog can protect you just fine by barking at
suspicious noises and allowing you to investigate.  It does not have
to be vicious.  A good protection dog is always well trained and has a
relationship with its owner that encourages it to be protective.
Higher levels of protection (such as attack dogs) require considerable
training and experienced handling and are most definitely not for
everyone.

(3) You are responsible for your dog's reproduction.  You must either
get it neutered, or make provisions for keeping your bitch away from
dogs when in heat.  If your male is intact, you must keep him under
control when he smells a bitch in heat.  If you breed, you are
responsible for making sure that your dog or bitch is suitable for
breeding (i.e., good health, good temperament, good specimen of the
breed, and free of genetic defects), and making sure that all
resulting puppies are placed in good homes.  The millions of dogs that
must be put down annually in the US are the result of owner
irresponsibility about their pet's reproduction.

(4) You are responsible for your pet's behavior.  This means keeping
your dog under control.  Do not let it roam; do not let it become a
nuisance to others in your neighborhood.  Clean up after it or curb it
(make it go in the gutter) when it eliminates, *especially* in public
areas.  Many parks, beaches, and lakes are closed to dogs because of
irresponsible owners in this regard.

(5) You are still responsible for the dog when you "get one for your
kid."  Unless your child is old enough, at least 13 (and highly
variable at that), she or he will not have the sufficient maturity to
take responsibility for the dog.  A dog can be a good way to teach
children about responsibility, but the dog is still *your* main
responsibility.  Dogs acquired for this reason often wind up in the
shelters when the parents find out that they are the dog's primary
caretaker.

(6) You are responsible for becoming more knowledgeable about dogs.
Find some good books and read up.  Enroll in puppy and dog classes
where you can learn much from the instructor; attend them even before
you get a dog or puppy for first hand knowledge of what you can
expect.  Many dogs are in animal shelters with a note that says
"couldn't be housebroken" or "couldn't be trained."

(6) You are responsible for being prepared for the new dog.  Never get
one as a "surprise gift."  All members of your family must agree on
having a dog.  Have food, water and food dishes, bedding, collars and
leashes, chew toys, and a veterinarian lined up before you pick up
your dog.  Many "Christmas puppies" are found in the shelters by New
Year's Day.

Some books to try:

Milani, Myrna M., DVM. _The Weekend Dog_.  Signet (Penguin Books USA,
Inc.) (1985). ISBN: 0-451-15731-1 (paperback).
  This book outlines practical solutions for working people with dogs.
  It has excellent suggestions for understanding dog behavior,
  particularly destructive or unwanted behavior.  Gives all kinds of
  practical solutions to the problems of adequate exercise, adequate
  training, housetraining, and so forth.

Miller, Harry.  _The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care_.  Bantam
Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987).  ISBN: 0-553-27789-8 (paperback).
  This small book provides a surprising amount of useful information.
  A little on the "lightweight" side, nevertheless, it gives a good
  outline of what you should know about your puppy or dog.  You can
  use this to decide how much you do know and where you need to brush
  up on what you don't.  Besides sections on how to select the right
  dog, it covers basic puppy needs (housetraining, feeding,
  illnesses), basic training, basic pet care, and a complete list
  of AKC breeds (each breed illustrated with b/w drawing, thumbnail
  sketch included -- good as an overview, but not very specific).

Monks of New Skete, The.  _How To Be Your Dog's Best Friend_.  Little,
Brown & Company.  1978.  ISBN: 0-316-60491-7 (hardback).
  A monastery in upstate New York breeds, raises, and trains German
  Shepherd Dogs.  On the basis of their considerable experience, they
  offer troubleshooting guides, discuss discipline, environmental
  restrictions, basic and puppy training, and much more.  Extensive
  bibliography.  The emphasis is on understanding the dog in order to
  communicate with it or to solve problem behavior.  An excellent,
  well written classic.

Taylor, David. _You and Your Dog_.  Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
  This useful book is an overall guide to the health and care of dogs.
  It includes a basic listing of dog breeds (AKC).   This is a good
  general purpose book that gives you an idea of what all is involved
  in owning and caring for a dog.


C.  Where?

1.  Animal shelters

The animal shelter is a good place to pick up a dog and save it from
death in the bargain.  Look for a clean, healthy dog, keeping in mind
any constraints you may have.  Look for signs of friendliness and
liveliness.  Does it approach you in a friendly manner?  Talk with the
people caring for the animals for any information on a particular
animal they can give you.

The best thing to do is to go the animal shelter every weekend and
spend time with the dogs.  Try to put their plight out of your mind
for the moment--it would be nice to save them all, but you can't.
Instead, you should get to know the dogs on an individual basis.

Read the tags on each cage and see whether the dog was a stray, or
whether its owner turned it in for some reason.  There are some
beautiful adult dogs in the pound that have been given up reluctantly
by ill or elderly owners.  Don't overlook these!

Ask to see the dog in the holding area most shelters have.  You'll be
able to check for signs of hostility, see if the dog knows anything,
and in general how it reacts to you.  Expect some fear and
nervousness!  A few doggy treats may help calm it.  If things seem to
be going well, ask if you can take it on a walk, even just around the
compound.  If you are curious to know its reaction to cats, take it by
the cat compound.

Finally, don't be afraid to say "not this dog," and walk away.  It is
hard, hard, hard to walk away from a sweet dog, but you are looking
for a companion for life, so you will have to be honest with yourself
about what you want.  There are horror stories from people who made an
impulsive decision in the pound and lived to regret it.

2. Private parties

People who have unplanned litters will advertise their puppies in the
paper.  This may or, more often, may not be a good source.  Check the
health of the puppies carefully.  As with breeders, look for people
more concerned with the welfare of the puppies -- people out for a
fast buck will not likely have seen to the health of the puppies.  If
you are looking for a purebred, forget the backyard breeders and find
a reputable breeder instead.

3.  Breeders

If you plan to show your dog, or desire a healthy pet-quality
purebred, find a reputable breeder.  In general, don't use newspaper
advertisements.  Attend dog shows instead and talk to the owners
there.  Or look for breeder advertisements in magazines like Dog
Fancy, or others devoted to specific breeds.  Libraries often have a
local breeder's registry book; you can also check the yellow pages for
breed referral numbers.

Another way to find all-breed or specialty clubs is to call the AKC in
New York City, and ask for the address of the closest all-breed club.
A note to the Club secretary should provide information about breeder
members. Also, a letter to the "parent" club for your favorite breed
(address available from AKC), should provide a list of breeders. AKC's
main switchboard number is 212/696-8200.

When you meet with breeders, look for people that seem more concerned
with the welfare of their dogs than the amount of money they're
making.  Look for ones raising the puppies "underfoot" and around
people.  A reputable breeder should have some history of breeding
animals.  They may be breeding for show or field work or just plain
good pets.  They should be able to tell you about some of their
previous puppies.  They should be able and willing to discuss the
health and well being of the parents of your puppy including: eye
conditions, hip dysplasia, etc.  In general, be suspicious of puppies
from anyone who has not had the parents at minimum x-rayed for hip
dysplasia and had the eyes checked by a veterinarian, or for other
problems associated with the breed.  Not all breeds have the same
problems, but breeders should know what they are and be able to tell
you which ones they've tested for.

You should be able to see one or both parents of your puppy; their
temperament will give you a good idea of your puppy's adult
temperament.  Titles in hunting, obedience, or protection can indicate
good temperament.

Many responsible breeders only guarantee the health of a pup for a
limited time (e.g. 48 hours).  This is not a rip-off.  The breeder has
no control over the pup once the new owner takes it.  Reputable
breeders will stand by that guarantee *if* the new owner takes the pup
to a vet who finds something wrong (e.g. a communicable disease)
within that period but the breeder can hardly be held responsible for
a disease contracted after the pup is in its new home.  Thus, such an
early trip to the vet is for the protection of all concerned.

Guaranteeing against genetic defects is common: such a guarantee
generally means a refund or replacement in the case of a defect
occurring; it does NOT mean that the puppy will "never" develop a
genetic defect.  Be wary of breeders that claim your puppy can never
develop, for example, hip dysplasia.

The breeder should also guarantee to take the puppy back if you are
unable to keep it rather than having it go to the pound.  The breeder
should also be concerned about your living conditions and what you
plan to use the dog for before they allow their puppy to go live with
you.  Many breeders will want to know what you plan to do about
reproduction.  Many will require that a pet quality puppy be neutered,
and withhold registry papers until receipt of proof of neutering (thus
making any puppies from that dog unregisterable).  Approach getting a
puppy as if you were adopting a child.  Expect a lot of questions and
ASK a lot of questions!  A responsible breeder is also looking for a
responsible owner.

If guarantees or other contracts (such as spay/neuter) are involved,
get it all down in writing.  A responsible breeder will not be
offended by such a step.  If something goes wrong, you have no legal
recourse if there is nothing in writing, verbal contract laws in some
states to the contrary.

4.  Breed rescue organizations

One excellent source for a purebred dog is from a rescue organizations
run by breed clubs across the country.  These organizations take
specimens of their breed from shelters or from private owners who can
no longer keep them, and care for them in volunteer's homes until a
new home can be found.  The adoption fee usually is less than the cost
of a purebred from other sources.  For addresses of rescue services
for various breeds, call the American Kennel Club library,
212-696-8348, or check the breed-specific FAQ, if one exists for your
breed.

5.  Pet Stores

Don't buy pet store animals.  These are often obtained from
disreputable sources such as "puppy mills" (where animals are bred
(and bred and bred) only for profit).  By buying from the store, you
are supporting these mills and adding to the pet population problem.
In addition, you are obtaining an animal of dubious health and any
money you save will likely go directly into vet costs as its health
deteriorates and you may even have to put it down.  If it is purebred
and has papers, chances are very good that the papers have been forged
in some way and even that the puppy is not really purebred.  In
addition, many behavioral problems appear in these puppies as they
will have been separated too early from their mother, improperly
handled, unsocialized with either humans or dogs, and forced to live
in their own feces.


D.  Veterinarians.

Before you even bring your new dog home, take it to the vet you have
already selected.  Annual shots and examinations are a must for
keeping your dog healthy.  If you cannot afford veterinary care for a
dog, you should not get one.  Preventive and consistent care is less
expensive in the long run.

2.  Choosing a vet

Choose a vet who you are comfortable with and who will answer your
questions.  Check out the office: do animals seem just frightened or
are they also out of control?  Is it bedlam, or reasonable for the
number of different animals there?  Do you have local recommendations
from friends?  Does the vet specialize in small animals as opposed
to, say, livestock?

3.  24 hour emergency care

A good vet will either be associated with a 24 emergency care plan or
be able to give you the number of a good place in your area.  Keep
this number on your refrigerator and check with your vet when you
visit that it's still up-to-date.

4.  Fecal samples

Any time you bring your dog to the vet, try to bring a fresh fecal
sample.  Put a small, fingernail-sized sample into a plastic bag, or
ask your vet for a supply of fecal samplers.  The vet cannot always
get a fecal sample from the dog, and this saves you extra trips to
return the sample and then bring the dog in if the tests are positive.

Try an ordinary sandwich bag (e.g. a "Baggie" -- ziplock is convenient
but not necessary) and turn it inside out over your hand like a rubber
glove.  Then simply pick up the stool with your covered hand, turn the
bag right-side out, enclosing the sample.  Zip if ziplock otherwise
use a twist tie.  This is perfectly sanitary (and you can use the same
procedure to clean up after your dog on walks).

5.  Dog reactions

Dogs may or may not dislike going to the vet.  You should invest in a
dog carrier for the trip to the vet (and indeed, any trip in the car)
to prevent accidents while driving.  Sometimes a removable partition
that blocks off the back of the car works well.

From puppyhood, you should accustom your dog to being handled.  Look
into its ears, which should be clean, white, and pink.  Check its
eyes, which should be clear, and should not display any signs of
runniness.  The puppy's nose should be likewise clean and slightly
moist.  Check the puppy's mouth, examining the gums and teeth,
regularly.  Hold the dog still, and look at its anus; pick up its
paws, and look at the pads and claws.  this will have the added
benefit that you will notice any changes from normal quickly, and will
be able to notify your vet promptly if something is wrong.

It helps a good deal if you train your dog to "stand" -- this will
assist the vet's examination of your pet.

E.  Puppies.

Puppies should not be separated from their mother and littermates
before 8 weeks of age.  Many recommend 10 weeks minimum.  This is
related to physical considerations such as weaning and psychological
considerations such as the puppy's readiness to leave the litter.

1.  Destruction and safety

You should consider that a puppy has an absolute right to chew
whatever they can get at in your absence.  You must put the puppy
where either it cannot do any damage, or you do not care about the
possible damage.  Puppies can eat kitchen cabinets, destroy furniture,
chew on carpet, and damage a wide variety of other things.  Besides
the destruction, the puppy may well injure itself, even seriously.

A good solution to this is a crate.  A crate is any container, made of
wire mesh or plastic, that will hold the puppy comfortably, with
enough room to stand and curl up and sleep, but not too much that it
can eliminate in one corner.  See the section on crates below.

Please put your pup in an environment it can't destroy.  Puppies are
too immature to handle temptations.  Depending on the breed, most dogs
begin to gain the maturity to handle short stints with mild
temptations when they're about 6 months old.  Consider the analogy
with a baby, where you keep it in a crib, stroller, or pen if you are
not holding it.

2.  Two puppies?

Many breeders believe it is best to NOT have two puppies together.
They tend to bond to each other and not to you and that can cause
serious problems when it comes time to train them.  Having two puppies
needing housetraining at the same time can make that process go on for
much longer.  This implies that you would not introduce a second dog
before the other six months old and properly trained.

There are always exceptions, of course, and there are many happy
families out there with two or more dogs that were littermates or
otherwise puppies together.

3.  Immunities and exposure

Newborn puppies receive immunization against diseases from colostrum
contained in their mothers milk while nursing (assuming the bitch has
been properly vaccinated recently before the breeding took place).
Initially, during their first 24 hours of life, maternal antigens
(passive immunity) are absorbed through the pups intestines which are
very, very thin during those first few hours (this is why it is so
important that puppies nurse from the mother during that critical
time).  After the colostrum ceases (a day or so later), the maternal
antigens decline steadily.

During this time, puppies cannot build up their own natural immunity
because the passive immunity gets in the way.  As the passive immunity
gradually declines, the pup's immune system takes over.  At this time,
the pups should be given their first immunization shots so they can
build up their own antibodies against them.  However, there is no way
to tell when passive immunity is gone.  This is why pups should be
given a shot every few weeks (2 - 3 weeks apart and a series of at
LEAST three shots).

Picture a plot of antibody level versus time.  Maternal antibody is
steadily declining.  You just don't know the rate.  At some level, say
X, protection from parvo is sufficient.  Below X, protection may be
less than effective against an infection.  In general, vaccine antigen
cannot stimulate the puppy's own immune system until the maternal
antibody level is *below* X.  Let's say it is .7*X.  Here's the rub.
The antibody level spends some time dropping from X to .7X.  During
this time, even if you vaccinated every day, you would (in this
theoretical discussion) not be able to stimulate immunity.  Yet you
are below that level of maternal protection at which infection can be
effectively fought off.

Thus the importance of giving several vaccinations at 2-4 week
intervals until around 18 weeks.  One maximizes the chance of catching
the puppy's immune system as soon as it is ready to respond,
minimizing the amount of time the puppy may be susceptible to
infection.

IMPORTANT: The last shot should be given AFTER 16 weeks of age (4
months) to be SURE that dam's antibodies have not gotten in the way of
the pup building up its own immunity (read the label of the vaccine!).

You should keep your puppy away from all strange dogs.  If you know
that a particular dog is current on its shots and not carrying
disease, then go ahead and let your puppy socialize.  The same holds
true for people.  Ask them to wash their hands before they play with
your puppy.  It can't hurt and it could save you a great deal of
grief.  As your puppy gets its shots, you can slowly add more and more
exposure to its life.  But keep in mind this is an infant and needs
gentle care!

Your puppy should get the following vaccinations between 5-8 weeks of
age: Distemper, Measles, and CPI.  Between 14-16 weeks it should get
shots for Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, and
parovirus (also known as the DHLPP shot), as well as being innoculated
against rabies.  At one year, it should get DHLPP and rabies again;
DHLPP yearly after that and rabies every three years.  Ask your vet
about any additional vaccinations or medications that are appropriate
for your area.

4.  Worms

Worms can present a serious problem to puppy health.  There is no good
way to prevent puppies from having worms, for a variety of reasons.
You should take your puppy in regularly for worm-testing.  Worms can
interfere with the puppy's growth if left unchecked.  See Worms in
Health Care Issues for more detailed information.

5.  Acclimatization

Accustom your puppy to many things at a young age.  Baths, brushing,
clipping nails, cleaning ears, having teeth examined, and so on.
Taking the time to make these things matter of fact and pleasant for
your puppy will save you a world of time and trouble later in its
life.

For example, every evening before the dog eats (but after you have put
its bowl down), check its ears by peeking in the ear and touching it
with your fingers.  Do this every evening until the dog stops fussing
about it.  Continue to do it and you'll always know if your dog's ears
are okay.

Brushing is important, especially for double coated breeds when they
begin to shed.  A little effort now to get your puppy to enjoy
brushing will save you a lot of trouble later when it begins to shed
and shed and shed...

6.  Puppies and small children

Keep puppies and very small children apart or under close supervision.
Small children do not understand the need for keeping fingers out of
puppies' eyes or refraining from pulling painfully on their tails,
among other problems.  So keep children 6 years or so and younger away
from the puppy until it is grown, for the safety of the puppy.

7.  Puppies crying at night

Your puppy wants to be with the rest of the "pack" at bedtime.  This
behavior is highly adaptive from the standpoint of dog behavior.  When
a puppy becomes separated from its pack it will whine, thereby
allowing it to be found and returned to the rest of the group.  This
is why so many books on puppies and dog behavior strongly recommend
that you allow your puppy/dog to sleep with you in your room.

Try moving the crate into your bedroom.  If your puppy whines, first
make sure it doesn't have to go outside to eliminate.  This means
getting up and taking it outside.  If it whines again, or doesn't
need to go outside, bang your hand on the crate door and say something
like "NO, SLEEP" or "NO, QUIET".  If the puppy continues to whine, try
giving it a toy or chew toy and then simply ignore any continued
whining.  If you don't reinforce the whining by comforting it (other
than to take it outside -- which is OK), it will eventually learn to
settle down.  Also, be sure to have a vigorous play session JUST
BEFORE you are going to go to bed.  This should poop it out and it
will sleep much more soundly.

Alternatively, you can designate a pad for your puppy on the bedroom
floor.  Keep the door closed or put a leash on it to keep it close to
the bed.  When it whines or moves about, take it out to eliminate.
Otherwise, as above, say "NO, SLEEP."

Puppies that cannot sleep in the bedroom for whatever reason may be
comforted by a ticking clock nearby, and a t-shirt of yours from the
laundry.

8.  References

There are several books that focus on the care and needs of
puppies:

Monks of New Skete, The.  _The Art of Raising a Puppy_.  Little, Brown
and Company (1991).  ISBN: 0-316-57839-8 (hardback).
  The monks of New Skete have put together an excellent book that
  discusses puppy development and the things that should be done at
  the appropriate stages and why.  First they follow a newborn litter
  through its various stages of development and at each stage they
  discuss what is happening.  They discuss testing puppies'
  temperaments and what you want to look for, under which
  circumstances.  They discuss briefly dog breeds, and how to find
  reputable breeders.  They then launch into a series of useful
  chapters: housebreaking, preliminary obedience, laying the
  foundations of training, understanding (reading) your dog, how to
  become the pack leader, basic training, discipline, and general
  care.  A good bibliography is provided at the back.

Randolph, Elizabeth.  _How to Help Your Puppy Grow Up to be a Wonderful
Dog_. ISBN 0-449-21503-2.


F.  Puppy-Proofing Your Home.

It is essential to puppy-proof your home.  You should think of it in
the same way as child-proofing your house but be more through about
it.  Puppies are smaller and more active than babies and have sharp
teeth and claws.  Things of especial concern are electric wires.  If
you can get through the puppy stages without having your pup get a
shock from chewing a wire you are doing a great job!  When puppy
proofing your home, get down on your hands and knees (or lower if
possible) and consider things from this angle.  What looks enticing,
what is breakable, what is sharp, etc.  The most important things are
watching the puppy and, of course, crating it or otherwise restraining
it when you can't watch it.

Another step in puppy proofing is house proofing the puppy.  Teach it
what is and isn't chewable.  The single most effective way to do this
is by having a ready supply of chewable items on hand.  When the puppy
starts to chew on an unacceptable item (be it a chair, rug, or human
hand), remove the item from the puppy's mouth with a stern, "NO!" and
replace it with a chew toy and praise the puppy for playing with the
toy.  If you are consistent about this, the puppy will get the idea
that only the things you give it are to be chewed on!

There are some products that can help make items unpalatable and thus
aid in your training.  Bitter Apple and Bitter Orange (available at
most pet stores) impart a bitter taste to many things without
staining, etc.  You should not *depend* on these products to keep your
puppy safe, but *use* them as a training aid.

G.  Feeding Your Puppy.

Premium pet food tends to have higher nutritional value.  In
particular, foods such as Science Diet, Eukanuba, Nature's Recipe.
This means you can generally feed your dog a smaller amount of food.
Also, they tend to be highly digestible which means that there is less
waste to clean up in the yard.  For these two reasons, many people
feed their pets premium foods over grocery store foods.  But the
decision is yours and many healthy, happy dogs have been raised on
plain Purina Dog Chow.

There are two methods you can use to feed your puppy: free feeding and
scheduled feeding.  Free feeding is when dry food is left out all day
and the dog eats as it wishes.  Scheduled feeding gives the dog food
at set times of the day, and then takes it away after a period of
time, such as a half hour.  In most cases, you are best off feeding
your puppy on a schedule.  This better controls elimination when
trying to housetrain.  In addition, many dogs will overeat and become
overweight on a free-feed schedule.  But for other dogs, such as dogs
with gastric problems or older dogs, frequent small meals may be
better for them.  If you are unsure, you may want to discuss your
particular situation with your vet.

Something to keep in mind is that many veterinarians and breeders
(particularly of larger breeds) recommend that you NOT feed puppy food
for the first year as is recommended on the bags of food.  They
recommend that you feed puppy food ONLY for the first two months that
you have the puppy at home and then switch to adult food.  A good
"rule of thumb" is to switch to adult food when the puppy has attained
90% of its growth (exactly when this is reached varies by breed and
size).  The nutritional formulation (especially the extra protein and
calcium) can actually cause problems in puppy development.  The
problem tends to be with growth of bones vs. growth of tendons,
ligaments, and muscle.  The growth rates are not the same and so the
connections are strained and if the dog jumps wrong or is playing too
hard, the connections can be torn.  This typically happens in the
front shoulder and requires surgery and several months of confinement
to repair.  The added calcium in puppy food may deposit on puppies'
bones causing limping.

If the puppy has hip dysplasia, its clinical symptoms may be
aggravated by imbalanced growth rates (or obesity, for that matter),
and a puppy with mild HD that could have lived out a happy life as a
pet may have to be put down instead.


H.  Teething Puppies.

Around 5 to 6 months of age, puppies will start to get their permanent
teeth.  There are several things you can do, both to ease the pain and
control the chewing.

  * Make some chicken soup (low sodium variety or make it yourself)
    ice cubes and give them to the puppy.
  * Soak a clean rag in water, wring it out and then freeze it
    (rolling it up helps) and give it to your puppy to chew on in
    place of rawhides.
  * Soften the kibble a bit with water.
  * Discourage biting on your arm or hand for comfort.

I.  Chew Toys.

1.  In summary

Nylabones are best for keeping teeth clean.  Followed by either
Gumabones or Nylafloss.  Rawhide and cow's hooves can cause problems.

2.  In detail

Nylabones are most highly recommended.  They cost about 3 times as
much as a rawhide but last for a very long time.  Some dogs don't like
them and may need some encouragement; most will happily use them.

Gumabones are similar to nylabones, but a bit softer and without as
much tooth cleaning ability.  The manufacturer says that Gumabones are
more likable and serve as toys, but the Nylabone is necessary to
satisfy frustration chewing and chewing due to a need to chew.  Some
dogs have trouble with flatulence when they ingest the small pieces of
gumabone that they chew off.

Nylafloss is also well accepted and is the best tooth cleaner of all.
To many dogs, though, it is only interesting when you wave it in the
dog's face.  (Nylafloss looks like very a thick, knotted rope.)

Rawhide is not recommended by most people because the dogs tend to
swallow large pieces, which swell in the intestines.  Also, if the
shank gets slimy but the knot is hard, the dog can swallow the shank
and then the knot gets sucked down into the throat and chokes the dog.
Lastly, and much more commonly, they cost a fortune if you have a
mid-to-large dog or a dog with powerful jaws.

Organic bones may splinter and cause tooth wear or even gum and mouth
injuries.  Eating the pieces often results in constipation.

Cow hooves are better than rawhide because they break down into
smaller pieces and are much cheaper and more durable.  However, like
organic bones, they can cause gum and mouth injuries when they chip.
They smell somewhat and may cause tooth wear.  Hooves are available in
a beef basted flavor that doesn't smell badly.

Another chew item out on the market is called CHOOZ, by the makers of
Nylabones.  This item looks like a nylabone but is crunchy like a dog
biscuit (but harder).  It can also be tossed into your oven or
microwave to change its texture (makes it lighter and more like a hard
bread).  CHOOZ has been involved in at least one case of gastric
blockage; you may not want to use it.


J.  Preliminary Training.

It is essential for every dog, no matter how big, or small, or whether
you want to show, or work, or just play with, to have basic obedience
training.  If you want to go beyond the basics, that's great.  But at
least do the basics.  One way to think of it is that without basic
obedience, you and the dog don't speak the same language so how can
you communicate?  But with basic obedience, you can tell the dog what
you want it to do and it will understand you and do it.  Another way
to think of it is getting your dog to be a Good Citizen: it doesn't
jump on people, or run off, or indulge in other obnoxious behaviors --
because it knows what you expect of it.

Find a good class and attend it.  Many places have puppy kindergarten
classes; this also helps socialize your puppy.  Do 10 minute training
sessions every day.  And if you like it, keep going.  You'd be amazed
at all the activities you can do with your dog once you and the dog
learn the basics!  Training is fun and simple if approached that way.
Enjoy it!

Puppies can be started far earlier than many people believe.  In fact,
waiting until your pup is 6 months old to start training it is VERY
late, and will be the cause of a LOT of problems.  Start right away
with basic behavior: use simple, sharp "no's" to discourage chewing
hands or fingers, jumping on people, and many other behaviors that are
cute in puppies but annoying when full grown.  Don't be severe about
it, and praise the puppy *immediately* when it stops.  Tie the puppy
down in sight of people eating dinner to prevent begging and nosing
for food (if you put it in another room, it will feel ostracized and
begin to cry).  If your puppy bites and scratches you when playing,
give it a toy instead.  Give a good, loud *yelp* or *ouch* when the
puppy bites you.  This is how the other puppies in the litter let each
other know when they have crossed the line, and it is a good way to
get the puppy's attention and let it know that biting is not
acceptable.

The other side of the coin is *immediate* praise when your puppy stops
after a "no".  You may feel like this is engaging in wild mood swings
(and you may well get odd looks from other people); that's all right.
You're making your wishes crystal clear to the puppy.  It also needs
positive as well as negative reinforcement: how would you respond if
people only ever yelled at you when you did something wrong?  Also,
introduce things in a fun way without "corrections" just to lay a
foundation for formal training later on.  *Formal training*, demanding
or exact, is not appropriate at this stage.  Instead, concentrate on
general behavior, getting its attention, introducing things that will
be important later in a fun way, and some other preliminary things,
such as discouraging it from lagging or forging on the leash (but not
making it heel!).  In sum, lay a good foundation for its future
development and behavior.

Benjamin, Carol Lea.  _Mother Knows Best: The Natural Way To Train
Your Dog_.  Howell Book House, New York. 1985.  ISBN 0-87605-666-4.
$15.95 hardcover.
  "No matter how the pup transgresses, no matter how angry the bitch
  becomes, she never denies him his nourishment.  He never goes to bed
  without his supper.  Nor does she offer tidbits of food, treats
  beneath the table, extra portions of dessert to reward good
  behavior. Eating is eating and education is education."

  She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she
  does not recommend food training a young puppy.  She does recommend
  crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room
  with the puppy.  She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad
  dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out,
  cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. She talks about
  canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with
  your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him
  copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy.

  Most training methods rely on the foundational relationship between
  an owner and his dog, and this book provides some ideas on
  establishing that relationship while the puppy is still young.

Brahms, Ann and Paul. _Puppy Ed._.  Ballantine Books.  1981.
ISBN:0-345-33512-0 (paperback).
  Describes how to start teaching your puppy commands.  This is a
  thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and
  cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it.  They stress
  that by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later,
  more formal training goes much easier.

Burnham, Patricia Gail.  _Playtraining Your Dog_.


K.  Socialization.

During your puppy's first year, it is very important that it be
exposed to a variety of social situations.  After the puppy has had
all its shots, carefully expose it to the outside world.  Take it to
different places: parks, shopping centers, schools, different
neighborhoods, dog shows, obedience classes--just about anywhere you
can think of that would be different for a little puppy.  If the puppy
seems afraid, then let it explore by itself.  Encourage the puppy, but
be firm, not coaxing.  If you want to take the pup in an elevator, let
it try it on its own, but firmly insist that it have the experience.
Your favorite dog food and supply store (unless it's a pet store) is a
good place; dog shows are another.  You want the pup to learn about
the world so that it doesn't react fearfully to new situations when it
is an adult.  You also want it to learn that you will not ask it to do
anything dangerous or harmful.  Socializing your dog can be much fun
for you and the dog!

Do not commit the classic mistake made by many owners when their dogs
exhibit fear or aggression on meeting strangers.  DO NOT "soothe"
them, or say things like "easy, boy/girl," "it's OK..."  This serves
as REINFORCEMENT and ENCOURAGES the fear or growling!  Instead, say
"no!" sharply and praise it WHEN IT STOPS.  Praise it even more when
it allows its head to be petted.  If it starts growling or backing up
again, say "no!"  Be a little more gentle with the "no" if the dog
exhibits fear, but do be firm.  With a growling dog, be much more
emphatic and stern with your "no!"

If you are planning to attend a puppy class (and you should, they are
not expensive) ask the instructor about her/his views before you sign
up.  If socialization is not part of the class, look elsewhere.

The _Art of Raising a Puppy_ has many valuable tips and interesting
points on the subject of socializing puppies.


L.  Housetraining.

The idea is to take advantage of a rule of dog behavior: a dog will
not generally eliminate where it sleeps.  Exceptions to this rule are:

  * Dogs that are in crates that are too large (so the dog can
    eliminate at one end and sleep at the other end).
  * Dogs that have lived in small cages in pet stores during critical
    phases of development and have had to learn to eliminate in the
    cage.
  * Dogs that have blankets or other soft, absorbent items in the
    crate with them.
  * Dogs that are left for too long in the crate and cannot hold it
    any longer.

To house train a dog using a crate, establish a schedule where the dog
is either outside or in its crate when it feels the need to eliminate.

Using a mild correction when the dog eliminates inside and exuberant,
wild praise when the dog eliminates outside will eventually teach the
dog that it is better to go outside than in.  Some owners correct more
severely inside, but this is extremely detrimental to the character of
puppies.  To make the dog notice the difference between eliminating
inside and outside: praise more outside rather than correcting more
inside.

The crate is crucial because the dog will "hold it" while in the
crate, so it is likely to have to eliminate when it is taken out.
Since the owner knows when the dog has to eliminate, the dog is taken
out and eliminates immediately, and is praised immediately.  This is
ideal reinforcement for the behavior of going out to eliminate.  Thus
the dog is consistently praised for eliminating outside.  In addition,
the dog is always supervised in the house, so the dog is always
corrected for eliminating indoors.  This strengthens the inhibition
for eliminating inside.

In general, consistency is MUCH more important than severe corrections
when training a dog.  Before a dog understands what you want, severe
corrections are not useful and can be quite DETRIMENTAL.  Crating
allows the owner to have total control over the dog in order to
achieve consistency.  Hopefully, this will prevent the need (and the
desire) to use more severe corrections.

2.  Puppies

Housetraining is relatively simple with puppies.  The most important
thing to understand is that it takes time.  Young puppies cannot wait
to go to the bathroom.  When they have to go, they have to go NOW.
Therefore, until they are about four months old, you can only
encourage good behavior and try to prevent bad behavior.  This is
accomplished by the following regime.

  * First rule of housetraining: puppies have to go to the bathroom
    immediately upon waking up.

  * Second rule of housetraining: puppies have to go to the bathroom
    immediately after eating.

With these two rules goes the indisputable fact that until a puppy is
housetrained, you MUST confine them or watch them to prevent accidents.

This means that the puppy should have a place to sleep where it cannot
get out.  Understand that a puppy cannot go all night without
eliminating, so when it cries in the night, you must get up and take
it out and wait until it goes.  Then enthusiastically praise it and
put it back to bed.  In the morning, take it out again and let it do
its stuff and praise it.  After it is fed and after it wakes up at any
point, take it out to eliminate.

Make it aware that this is not play time, but understand that puppies
get pretty excited about things like grass and snails and leaves and
forget what they came outside to do!  Use the same spot each time if
you can, the smell will help the puppy remember what it is to do,
especially after 12 weeks of age.

To make life easier for you later on, use a key phrase just when the
puppy starts to eliminate.  Try "hurry up," "do it," or some similar
phrase (pick one and use it).  The puppy will begin to eliminate on
command, and this can be especially useful later, such as making sure
the dog eliminates before a car ride or a walk in the park.

Don't let the puppy loose in the house unless it has just gone
outside, and/or you are watching it extremely closely for signs that
it has to go.  The key to housetraining is preventing accidents.  If
no accidents occur (ha!), then the dog never learns it has an option
other than going outside.

For an idea of what this can involve, here is a hypothetical
situation, assuming that you work and it takes you about 1/2 hour to
get home from work:

03:00   Let dog out, go to bathroom, return to crate
07:00   Let dog out, go to bathroom
07:15   Feed dog in crate, leave dog in crate
08:00   Let dog out, go to bathroom, return to crate
08:15   Owner goes to work
11:30   Owner returns, lets dog out
11:45   return dog to crate, owner returns to work
17:00   Owner returns, lets dog out, go to bathroom, play
19:00   Feed dog in crate, leave in crate
19:45   Let dog out, go to bathroom, play
23:00   Let dog out, put dog in crate, go to bed.

3.  Reference

For a comprehensive discussion on housetraining dogs, see

Evans, Job Michael.  _The Evan's Guide for Housetraining Your Dog_.
ISBN: 0-87605-542-0.
    Evans was a monk at New Skete for some years.  He discusses all
    aspects of housetraining puppies and dogs, giving many
    constructive solutions for all kinds of specific problems.


M.  Living with Other Pets.

You may need to introduce your dog to another pet that will share
living quarters (as opposed to simply meeting them while walking
along).

It depends on the temperament and ages of the animals involved.  In
most cases, you can simply introduce them, let them work it out, and
after a week or so, things are fine.  However, sometimes this is a
lengthy process that you will have to work through, especially if it
is cross-species.  In general, this will work:

  Put the dog in its own room, where the original pet can smell it,
  but not see it. After a day or so of this, remove the dog from the
  room and let the original pet smell and explore the room thoroughly.
  Put the dog back in.  Depending on the reactions involved, let the
  pets meet under supervision.  If there is some hostility, separate
  them while you are gone until you are certain that they get along.
  It is best if you can arrange a "retreat" for each animal.

Meeting first in a neutral area such as someone else's house or in a
park, if possible, may help.

1.  Establishing a hierarchy

You may find there are problems with establishing dominance between
dogs.  If one dog seems to be overly dominating the other, use your
position as alpha to stick up for the lower dog.  When the one
dominates the other, turn around and dominate the one.  Support the
lower dog in some (not all!) of the disputes, especially over food and
sleeping places.

This is an established behavioral pattern of the topmost dog in the
pack; it will look out for the lowest dog under some circumstances
while leaving the general hierarchy intact.  But don't over do it, as
the lower dog will learn to play on your sympathies.  Be sure to stop
stepping in once the hierarchy settles.


N.  People Food.

Feeding your dog "people food," i.e., table scraps and such is a poor
idea.  First, you may encourage your dog to make a pest of itself when
you are eating.  Second, feeding a dog table scraps is likely to add
unneeded calories to its diet and your dog may become overweight.
Third, if your dog develops the habit of gulping down any food it can
get, it may seriously poison or distress itself someday.

Some guidelines.  Do not feed the dog anything but dog food and dog
treats.  You might add vegetable oil or linatone to the food to
improve its coat.  There are other foods that you may want to add to
improve its diet (check with your vet first for appropriate food to
meet the dietary need you want to address), but always feed them to
the dog in its dish, never from your plate or from your hand while you
are eating.  Discourage your dog from begging at the table by tying it
nearby (so that it does not feel isolated from the social activity)
but out of reach of the table.  Give it its own food to eat at the
same time, and do not give it any treats during your eating time.
Tell your dog "no" or "leave it" if it goes for anything edible on the
floor (or on the ground during walks!), praise it when it obeys you.
Teach it that the only food it should take should be from its dish or
someone's hand.

If you are concerned about the "boring and drab" diet for your dog,
don't think of food as a way to interest it!  Play with it, take it
out on walks -- there are many other and better ways to make life
exciting for your dog.

Both _Mother Knows Best_ and _The Weekend Dog_ have good sections on
feeding your dog and what food should mean to it.


O.  Crating.

Crating is a controversial topic.  There are those who believe that
crate training is indefensible and others who believe that it is a
panacea.  The reality is likely somewhere in between.

1.  What does the dog think?

First, you must understand what the crate represents to the dog.  Dogs
are by nature den creatures -- and the crate, properly introduced, is
its den.  It is a safe haven where it does not need to worry about
defending territory.  It is its own private bedroom which it
absolutely will not soil if it can help it.  Judicious use of the
crate can alleviate a number of problems, stop others from ever
developing, and aid substantially in housetraining.

Where is the crate?  It should be around other people.  Ideally, set
it up in the bedroom near you.  Have the dog sleep in it at night.
Dogs are social and like to be around their people.  Don't force it
into the crate.  Feed your dog in the crate.

2.  Prices and recommendations

A plastic airline approved (leakproof) crate will run from $10 to $75
depending on the size.  These are the cheapest prices available.  Wal
Mart and their wholesale store, Sams, sell these crates cheaply.  Pet
stores may be much more expensive.  If flying with a dog, most
airlines will sell a crate at near-wholesale prices.

Mail order stores also have competitive prices, and they also sell
wire mesh cages.  Wire mesh is comparable in price to plastic airline
crates, but the crates are sized according to their outside
dimensions.  Because of the shape of plastic crates and the plastic
lip that runs around their middle, a plastic crates' interior bottom
surface may be substantially smaller than the exterior of the crate.
A 36" long Pet Taxi has a floor that is 30 or 32" long.

Wire cages are not as appealing to dogs that like the safe, enclosed
nature of a crate, but they have better ventilation for use in warm
places (plastic crates have ventilation holes also, but there is a
difference).  You might, for example, have a plastic crate in your
house and a wire one for the car.

The crate should be large enough for the dog to lie down, stand up and
turn around in comfortably, but not large enough for the dog to
relieve itself at one end and sleep at the other.  You may buy a crate
sized for an adult dog and block off part of it with a chew-proof
obstacle until the dog grows into it, or you may buy a succession of
crates as the dog grows.

3.  Proper use of a crate

Crating a puppy or dog often seems unappealing to humans, but it is
not cruel to the dog.  A dog's crate is similar to a child's playpen,
except it has a roof (dogs can jump out of a playpen) and is
chewproof.  Also, a crate is not suitable for activity or exercise,
but rather for rest.  Dogs are carnivores and do not need to be
constantly active during the daytime, like people (as gatherers) do.

If a crate is properly introduced to a dog (or puppy) the dog
will grow to think of the crate as its den and safe haven.  Most dogs
that are frequently crated will often use the open crate as a resting
place.

The major use of a crate is to prevent the dog from doing something
wrong and not getting corrected for it.  It is useless to correct a
dog for something that it has already done; the dog must be "caught in
the act".  If the dog is out of its crate while unsupervised, it may
do something wrong and not be corrected, or worse yet, corrected after
the fact.  If the dog is not corrected, the dog may develop the
problem behavior as a habit (dogs are creatures of habit), or learn
that the it can get away with the behavior when not immediately
supervised.  A dog that rarely gets away with anything will not learn
that if nobody is around it can get away with bad behaviors.

If the dog is corrected after the fact, it will not associate the
correction with the behavior, and will begin to think that corrections
are arbitrary, and that the owner is not to be trusted.  This results
in a poorer relationship and a dog that does not associate
corrections, which are believed arbitrary, with bad behaviors even
when they are applied in time.  This cannot be overemphasized: a dog's
lack of trust in its owner's corrections is one of the major sources
of problems between dogs and their owners.

A secondary advantage of a crate is that it minimizes damage done by a
dog (especially a young one) to the house, furniture, footwear etc.
This reduces costs and aggravation and makes it easier for the dog and
master to get along.  It also protects the dog from harm by its
destruction: ingestion of splinters or toy parts, shock from chewing
through wires, etc.

A young dog should be placed in its crate whenever it cannot
be supervised.  Generally this means when nobody is home.

If a dog is trained in puppyhood with a crate, it will not always
require crating.  Puppies or untrained dogs require extensive crating.
After a year or so of crate training, many dogs will know what to do
and what not to, and will have good habits.  At this time crating
might only be used when the dog needs to be out of the way, or when
traveling.

4.  Introduction to a crate

Puppies are easier to put in crates than older dogs.  Much of what is
printed here may be unnecessary for a puppy.

Before a dog is locked into a crate, the dog must be as comfortable
with it as possible.  If a dog is put into a crate while it is afraid
of the crate, the dog's fear may build while inside and the resulting
trauma may be impossible to overcome.

To make a dog comfortable, the dog must first learn not to
fear it, and then to like it.  To alleviate fear, the following things
can be tried.

  * Put treats or food into the crate for the dog.  Start near the
    mouth of the crate, and then move the treats farther inside each
    time.
  * Leave the door off the crate at first.  The door can swing shut on
    the dog while the dog's head is in the crate, startling the dog
    with the contact and the strange sound.
  * Possibly get the dog used to part of the crate.  For instance,
    take the top half of the crate off and use all these tricks to get
    the dog used to that alone, then repeat the process with the whole
    crate.
  * If the crate is big enough, get in yourself.  (seriously!)
  * Get the dog excited about a toy and throw it in the crate for the
    dog to chase.
  * Think of the crate as a good thing yourself.  Dogs are good at
    reading their master's attitudes.  Never (ever) use the crate as a
    punishment.
  * Once the dog will go into the crate, feed the dog its meals in the
    crate.

Once the dog is unafraid of the crate, put the dog inside and close
the door.  Immediately lavish the dog with praise and food for a short
time, then let the dog out.  Do not, at this time, leave the dog alone
in the crate, or the dog will associate the crate with your leaving.
Also, before the dog is fully acclimated, it may grow panicky if left
in the crate long.

finally, put the dog inside for progressively longer periods of time,
always praising the dog as it goes in, and perhaps giving treats.

5.  Crating do's and don'ts

Do think of the crate as a good thing.  In time, your dog will too.

Do let the dog out often enough so that it is never forced to soil the
crate.

Do let the dog out if it whines because it needs to eliminate.  If you
know it doesn't have to eliminate, correct it for whining or barking.

Don't punish the dog if it soils the crate.  It is miserable enough
and probably had to.

Don't use the crate as a punishment.

Don't leave the dog in the crate for a long time after letting it eat
and drink a lot.  (because the dog will be uncomfortable and may have
to eliminate in the crate.)

Don't leave the dog in the crate too much.  Dogs sleep and rest a lot,
but not all the time.  They need play time and exercise.

Don't check to see if your dog is trustworthy in the house
(unsupervised, outside of the crate) by letting the dog out of the
crate for a long time.  Start with very short periods and work your
way up to longer periods.

Don't ever let the dog grow unaccustomed to the crate.  An occasional
stint even for the best behaved dog will make traveling and special
situations that require crating easier.

Don't put pillows or blankets in the crate without a good reason.
Most dogs like it cooler than their human companions and prefer to
stretch out on a hard, cool surface.  Besides providing a place to
urinate on, some dogs will simply destroy them.

----------------
This file is not copyrighted.  It is in the public domain and may
*not* be copyrighted by anyone.  Please feel free to forward copies of
this to anyone you like.  I only ask that you keep the document
intact, including the addresses below so that any recipient knows
where to query about possible updates.  Include a self addressed,
stamped envelope on postal queries.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@ics.uci.edu  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716

Archive-name: dogs-faq/health-care
Version: 1.0
Last-modified: 17 May 1992

This is one (of eight) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The eight parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu in the
directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, training, working, AKC-titles, misc1,
and references.  To obtain the files, first try ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp does not
work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
...etc, in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).

Changes and additions indicated with |'s.

III.  Health Care Issues

Prologue

  A.  In General.
  B.  Dental Care.
  C.  Trimming Nails.
  D.  Neutering.
  E.  Bathing.
  F.  Skin Problems.
  G.  Vaccinations.
  H.  Canine Ailments.
  I.  Disease Transmission (Zoonoses).
  J.  Worms.
  K.  Pills and Dosing.
  L.  Vomiting.
  M.  Poisons.
  N.  Aging.


Prologue.

Much of the information found in this article is summarized from
Carlson & Giffin.  I would like to thank them for their informative
and accessible information.  Any mistakes made in the summaries are my
responsibility and not Carlson & Giffin's.  I believe that I am within
copyright laws by using summarizations (no direct quoting, except for
the toxic plants section), my own organization of the material, and
precise acknowledgement where relevant.
                                                   Cindy Tittle Moore

A.  In General.

Your dog cannot tell you when it feels sick.  You need to be familiar
with its normal behavior -- any sudden change may be a signal that
something is wrong.  Behavior includes physical and social behavior;
changes in either can signal trouble.

If you familiarize yourself with basic dog care issues, symptoms to
look for, and a few emergency care treatments, you can go a long way
toward keeping your dog healthy.  Never attempt to replace vet care
with your own (unless, of course, you are a vet); rather, try to be
knowledgeable enough to be able to give your vet intelligent
information about your dog's condition.

You should know some emergency care for your dog.  This is beyond the
scope of the FAQ, as you really need pictures or demonstrations.
Check a home-vet book and ask your vet about them.

There are a number of good books that cover basic care for dogs.
These include:

Miller, Harry.  _The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care_.  Bantam
Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987).  ISBN: 0-553-27789-8 (paperback).
  Includes a section on practical home care, listing major symptoms
  you should be alert for, and listing general criteria by which you can
  determine a dog's overall healthiness.  Discusses major diseases and
  problems, gives sketches on what may be wrong given certain symptoms.

Taylor, David. _You and Your Dog_.  Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
  Taylor gives flow-chart questions to consider when deciding if
  symptoms are serious or not.  Not as comprehensive as other care
  books, but a good start in understanding what you need to look for
  when your dog seems off.  Includes illustrations of many procedures,
  such as teeth cleaning and nail trimming.  Informative discussion of
  reproductive system, grooming, and dog anatomy.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
 An *excellent* resource that details all aspects of health issues for
 dogs, and one that every conscientious dog owner should have is:

 Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD.  _Dog Owners's
 Home Veterinary Handbook_.  Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing
 Company, 866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA (1980).  ISBN:
 0-87605-764-4 (hardcover).
  This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
  It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
  take it to the vet post-haste.  It lists symptoms so that you may
  inform your vet of relevant information about its condition.  The
  arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
  Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,
  etc).  Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------


B.  Dental Care.

1. Hygiene

Dogs suffer from tartar buildup, just as people do.  Some dogs seem
particularly prone to tartar buildup and associated problems, others
never seem to get tartar, although most older dogs will show *some*
signs of tartar.  Untreated, tartar can cause all kinds of costly
dental problems including loss of teeth.

Make sure it gets plenty of dry and hard objects to chew and munch on.
In particular, Nylabones are most recommended for keeping teeth clean
(and may be all that some dogs need).  Dry dog food may help as well.

To prevent problems, brush your dog's teeth regularly.  Pet stores
sell dog toothbrushes and toothpaste.  Human toothpaste is not meant
for consumption, so use the dog-formulated toothpaste.  To do this
successfully, you must get your dog to let you handle its mouth.  This
is, of course, easiest with puppies.  For an older dog, you may have
to work for a while before it will let you open its mouth, look at it,
and eventually brush it.

Even if your dog is not prone to tartar buildup, the occasional
brushing of its teeth helps keep your dog amenable to having its mouth
handled -- always useful.

2.  Diseases

Peridontal disease is the most common of canine dental problems.  Food
is trapped in little pockets alongside the teeth and decay.  As these
pockets become infected, the gums become soft and mushy and recede
from the teeth.  Pushing on the sides of the gums may cause pus to
rise.  The dog often has fetid breath.  This is best prevented by
keeping the teeth clean and tartar buildup down, although treatment is
possible.

Dogs do not commonly get cavities.  When they do occur, it is more
often at the root of the tooth rather than at the crown.  Cavities can
lead to root abscesses.

Abscessed roots: this often causes a swelling just below the animal's
eye.  Generally, tooth extractions are needed at this point.


C.  Trimming Nails.

Most dogs need to have nails trimmed at some point.  While the vet
will often clip them for you, many dogs need their nails trimmed more
often than that to prevent injuries and other problems associated
with overgrown nails.

A tip: Look for illustrations of dog nails.  Most dog care books will
have one.  Cardinal (a dog products vendor) provides a small poster
that illustrates not only normal nail clipping but also how to
gradually work back the length of nails that have grown too long and
is quite informative.

1.  Clipping

Use nail clippers available at pet stores.  Look for the guillotine
type (don't use the human variety, this will crush and injure your
dog's nail) and get blade replacements as the sharper the blade is the
easier this procedure is.  There is another kind that looks like
scissors with hooked tips that are also good, and may be easier to
handle.

Before cutting the nails, examine them carefully.  If the nails are
are white, the difference between the nail and the quick is easy to
see (use good lighting).  The quick is the pink tissue visible within
the nail of the nail at the base.  If the nails are dark, it will be
much harder to tell where the quick is, in which case you must take
care.

If your dog resists having its nails trimmed, try trimming them while
you sit on a couch with the dog on its back in your lap.  By putting
the dog on its back, you make the nails accessible and put the dog in
a submissive position where they are less apt to fight.  As with many
things, this is easiest if you start while your dog is still a pup.

If the cutter is sharp, the nails won't crack if you cut at right
angles to the nail.  that is, hold it so that the blades are on the
top and bottom of the nail, not to the sides of the nail.

Do not cut below the quick.  It will be painful to your dog and bleed
everywhere.  When in doubt, trim less of the nail.  It will just mean
trimming more often.  Clip the portion above the quick for each nail
and don't forget the dewclaws.  Keep a styptic pencil on hand to
staunch any blood flow.

Dewclaws are a "fifth" toe, positioned as a "thumb" to the rest of the
nails and they do not touch the ground.  Not all dogs have them, and
they may be found on the front legs only or on all four legs.  Many
dogs have their dewclaws removed when they are puppies to prevent
infection resulting from easily injured dewclaws.  Some adult dogs
that regularly tear their dewclaws should have them removed.  While
they take longer to heal than three-day old puppies that have had
theirs removed do, the pain of periodically tearing them and going in
to the vet to have them bandaged back up makes the surgery worth
while.

2.  Grinding

The grinder avoids the potential problems of cutting the quick, nails
cracking, and sharp edges afterwards.  The nails can also be thinned,
allowing the quick to recede, resulting in shorter nails and a tighter
paw.

RC Steele and other mail-order companies sell them for about $45.
One model is the Oster Pet Nail Groomer, Model 129, with two speeds.
Some dogs may be spooked by the noise.  It may help to watch someone
who knows how to use it first.


D.  Neutering.

If you are not planning to breed your pet or put it to stud service,
or your dog's breeding days are over, you will want to neuter it.
There are a number of health benefits associated with neutering, for
either sex.

Technically, the general term for either sex is neutering; bitches are
spayed and dogs are castrated.  However, general usage is that bitches
are spayed or neutered and dogs are neutered.

Neutering is *not* a solution to behavioral problems; training is.

1. Castration

Dogs are castrated. A general anesthetic is administered, the
testicles are removed (oriectomy) and several stitches are used to
close it up.  The scrotum swill shrink and soon disappear.  You will
want to neuter the dog around six months of age, although dogs can be
neutered at any time after this.  Stud dogs are typically neutered
after they are too old to breed, and they suffer no ill effects.

Neutering dogs can prevent prostate cancer and other health risks.  It
may or may not eliminate certain behaviors such as marking or
aggressive behavior.  It will eliminate interest in the heat scent.

2. Spaying

Bitches are spayed; this is an ovario-hysterectomy (uterus and ovaries
are removed).  She must be put under general anesthesia.  A large
patch of fur will be shaved (to prevent later irritation of the
incision) off the lower abdomen.  You may have to take your bitch back
in to remove the stitches.  From a health point of view, the earlier
the bitch is spayed, the better.  Ideally, she should be spayed before
her first heat, this reduces the risk of reproductive and related
cancer (e.g., breast cancer) and later in life considerably.  The risk
rises in the first two heats before spaying, but does not rise further
with more heats before spaying.

An intact bitch will go through three-week heat periods about twice a
year.  You must keep her indoors to prevent breeding, and she may try
to escape.  She will have blood-spotted discharge from her vulva.  If
she becomes pregnant, she will undergo all the risks and expenses
associated with pregnancy (extra visits to the vet and extra food).
Unspayed bitches are at a fairly high risk of uterine/ovarian cancer
and infections -- both of which are life-threatening.

3.  Post-op recovery

You will need to watch to make sure your dog does not try to pull out
its stitches, and consult your vet if it does.  You might, in
persistent cases, need to get an elizabethan collar to prevent the
animal from reaching the stitches.  Puffiness, redness, or oozing
around the stitches should be also reported to the vet.  Some stitches
"dissolve" on their own; others require a return to the vet for
removal.

For further information on how neutering may affect your dog, see the
section on neutering in Assorted Topics.

4. Cost

The cost can vary widely, depending on where you get it done.  There
are many pet-adoption places that will offer low-cost or even free
neutering services, sometimes as a condition of adoption.  Local
animal clinics will often offer low-cost neutering.  Be aware that
spaying will always cost more than castrating at any given place since
spaying is a more complex operation.  Vets almost always charge more
than clinics, partly because of overhead, but also because they often
keep the animal overnight for observation and will do free followup on
any later complications.  Larger animals will cost more than smaller ones.


E.  Bathing.

You may need to bathe your dog on occasion.  The main thing to
remember is that dogs' skin is more delicate than humans.  It is much
more prone to drying out when you wash it.  Human based shampoos are
formulated to remove all the oils.  You need to get one formulated for
dogs that will remove dirt but not the essential oils for the coat.
Dogs that are frequently bathed may require some supplements (such as
Linatone) to keep their skin and coat healthy.

A condition called impetigo may result from not rinsing all the soap
out.  Other general problems, such as fleas that prefer dried-out skin
may occur.

1.  Procedure

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

First, groom your pet to rid its coat of any mats or knots.  Bathing
will not remove these and in fact will worsen them.  Plug its ears
with cotton to prevent water in the ears.

To prevent soap-burn in the eye, smear the eye area with a little
vaseline, or administer a drop of mineral oil in each eye.

Wet your dog thoroughly.  Using a nozzle and spray is much easier.
Lather and rinse its head carefully, keeping soap and water out of its
eyes and ears.  Lather and rinse the rest of its body.  Relather and
rinse any other areas that had stubborn stains.

Rinse your dog *thoroughly*, even beyond when you think you've got all
the soap out.  Try adding Alpha-Keri bath oil (one teaspoonful per
quart water) to the final rinse for coat luster.  Do NOT use vinegar,
lemon, or bleach rinses; they are acidic and will damage the dog's
coat and skin.

Dry your dog gently with towels, and keep it indoors until it is
completely dry to avoid chilling.

2.  Dry shampoos

Dogs with very oily coats my benefit from "dry-cleaning" in between
baths.  Calcium carbonate, talcum/baby powder, Fuller's earth, and
cornstarch are all effective.  They can be used frequently without
fear of removing essential oils or damaging the coat and skin.

Apply the powder, then brush out, against the lay of the hair, from
the bottom up (toes to head) with a soft bristle brush.  Then brush
the whole dog normally to get all the powder out.

3.  Tar

Do not use petroleum solvents, which are extremely harmful, to remove
the tar from your pet's skin.  Instead, trim away excess coat
containing tar where possible.  Soak remaining tarry parts in
vegetable oil overnight and then give your dog a complete bath.


F.  Skin Problems.

Some preventive steps

   * Keep your dog properly fed to prevent dry skin
   * When bathing your dog, use dog-formulated shampoo to prevent dry skin
   * Groom your dog regularly; some problems are caused by matted hair
     providing breeding grounds for a variety of skin diseases, regular
     grooming also helps keep you aware of any incipient problems.
   * Keep your dog flea and parasite free
   * Check your dog regularly for foxtails, burrs, and other sharp
     objects it may pick up when outside

1.  Relieving dry skin

Some things to try:

  * Shampoos with lanolin.
  * A good soak in cool water.
  * Non-drying shampoo: eg, Hy-Lyt EFA is non-allergenic.
  * Medicated shampoos may help with allergy-induced problems.
  * Avon's Skin-So-Soft(tm) added to the rinse water.

2.  Allergies followed by staph infections

Once a dog has an allergic reaction, it is quite common to have a
secondary staph infection.  Many vets aren't familiar with this.  The
staph infection may stay around long after the allergy is gone.

A vet that specializes in dermatology can be of great help in dealing
with skin problems.  See if your vet can refer you to such a person.

Some studies on primrose and fish oil in helping relieve or cure
secondary infections from allergies are documented in DM, March 1992.
More information may also be obtained from writing to the RVC
Dermatology Dept, Royal College St, London. NW1.

3.  Summary table

It is beyond the scope of this paper to examine any of these skin
problems in great detail, but here is a summary table of possible
problems.  Summarized from the summary tables in Carlson & Giffin,
pages 67-69.

Itchy Skin Disorders:

Name          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Scabies     | *intense* itching, small red spots, typical crusty ear tips
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Walking     | puppies 2-12wks, dry flakes move from head to neck to back,
Dandruff    | mild itchiness
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Fleas       | itching/scratching on back, tail, hindquarters
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Lice        | on poorly kept/matted coat dogs, uncommon, may have bald spots
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Ticks       | irritation at site of bite, often beneath ear flaps or thin skin
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Damp Hay    | severe itch from worm larvae, contacted from damp marsh hay
Itch        | (regional)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Inhalation  | severe itch, face rubbing, licking paws, seasonal
Allergy     | also regional
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Flea Allergy| scratching continues after fleas killed, pimple rash
Dermatitis  |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Contact     | itching/irritation at site of contact
Dermatitis  |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Allergic    | repeated or continuous contact (eg flea collar),
Contact Derm.   rash may spread
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Lick sores  | "boredom sores", licking starts at wrists/ankles
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hormone-related Hair Loss or Poor Hair Growth:

Name          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thyroid     | loss of hair
Deficiency  | (see Canine Ailments)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cortisone   | hair loss in symmetrical pattern, esp. trunk, skin is thin
Excess      | may also be from steroid treatments
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Estrogen    | greasy hair, hair loss in flanks/abdomen, wax in ears, loss of
excess      | hair around genitals, enlargened nipples, dry skin, brittle hair
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Estrogen    | scanty hair growth, smooth soft skin
deficiency  |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Acanthosis  | hair loss in armpit folds, black thick greasy rancid skin
Nigrans     |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Seborrhea   | "dandruff", hair/skin oily, yellow brown scales on skin,
            | resembles ringworm
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Other Hair Loss, etc:

Name          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Collie Nose | sunburn on lightly pigmented nose, loss of hair next to nose
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Ringworm    | scaly/crusty/red circular patches .5-2in diameter w/hair loss
            | in center and red margin at edge (not from a worm)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Demodectic  | hair loss around eyelids, mouth, front leg, young dogs
mange #1    |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Demodectic  | progression of #1, patches enlarge & coalesce, pyoderma
mange #2    | complications, affects all ages
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Calluses,   | gray/hairless/wrinkled skin over elbow, pressure points
elbow sores |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

With Pus Drainage (Pyoderma):

Name          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Puppy       | impetigo: pus filled blisters, crusty hairless skin
Dermatitis  | on abdomen, groin; acne: purple-red bumps on chin, lower lip
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hair pore   | pimple-like bumps on back, sometimes draining sinus,
infection   | hair loss
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Skin Wrinkle| inflamed skin, foul odor in lip fold, facial fold,
Infection   | vulvar fold, tail fold
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hot Spots   | in heavy coated dogs, painful inflamed patches of skin with
            | a wet, pus covered surface from which hair is lost
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cellulitis  | painful hot inflamed skin (wound infections, foreign bodies,
            | breaks in skin)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Abscesses   | pockets of pus beneath the skin, swells, comes to a head & drains
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Puppy       | under 4mos, sudden painful swelling of lips, eyelids,
Strangles   | ears and face, draining sores, crusts, and sinus tracts
            | (prompt vet attention required, do not pop "acne")
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Lumps or Bumps on/beneath Skin:
(all lumps should be checked by vet even if not apparently painful)

Name          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Papillomas, | anywhere, including mouth, not painful
Warts       | can look like chewing gum stuck to skin
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hematomas   | (bruises) - esp. on ears, from trauma
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Tender Knots| esp. at site of shot or vaccination, painful
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cysts       | smooth lumps beneath skin, slow growth, possible cheesy
            | discharge, possible infection, otherwise not painful
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Possibly    | rapid growth, hard & fixed to surrounding tissue,
cancerous   | any lump from a bone, starts to bleed, a mole that spreads or
lump        | ulcerates, open sores that do not heal (only way to tell for
            | sure is a biopsy)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

4.  Diagnosing

Skin problems are not easy to diagnose and cure, but there is a lot of
research going on.  Something that can help is to keep a diary for the
dog.  Every day, record what the dog ate, what the weather was like,
whether it is itching or not, and anything else that might be relevant
(visitors, for instance, when it is bathed, and so forth).  It's
sometimes hard to recall all the variables that might be affecting the
dog, but if you keep a diary, sometimes patterns become very clear.


G.  Vaccinations.

1.  Regularly scheduled shots

An indispensable part of keeping your dog healthy is to keep its
vaccinations up-to-date.  A table, lifted from Carlson & Giffin, shows
all the major vaccinations (at minimum) that a dog in the US should
have.  Conditions in your area may necessitate additional shots; ask
your vet about them as they may not always be routinely included in
normal shot programs.  DHLPP is a combination shot: Distemper,
(Canine) Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, (Canine) Parainfluenza, (Canine)
Parvovirus.

 Age                Vaccine Recommended
--------------------------------------------------------------
5-8 wks           | Distemper - measles - CPI
------------------+-------------------------------------------
14-16 wks         | DHLPP, Rabies
------------------+-------------------------------------------
12 mos & annually | DHLPP
------------------+-------------------------------------------
12 mos &          | Rabies
3 yr intervals    |
--------------------------------------------------------------

Vaccinations may fail under the following conditions:

  * vaccinations are improperly administered (should always be by or
    supervised by a vet)
  * the dog has some innate inability to respond
  * the dog has already been exposed to the disease in question
  * the puppy is too young for the vaccination to "take"

2.  Other vaccines

Not an exhaustive list: Other vaccines and preventives should also
be given such as heartworm, Lyme disease, etc, when needed.  Heartworm
prevention should begin around 5 months, but then it depends on where
you live.  Those living in warmer, damper areas with higher
concentration of heartworm may want to start earlier.  Lyme disease
vaccine instructions recommend giving it around 12 weeks; Bordatella
vaccines (for Kennel cough) around 6 months or earlier depending on risk.

3.  Vaccine overload?

Be sure your dog is safe and vaccinated against everything you think
the dog may be exposed to, however, don't overload its system!  You
can do more harm than good by vaccinating your dog for everything all
at once than if you stagger the vaccinations and let the individual
immunities build up gradually.

4.  Up-to-date on shots?

Do you know what it means when your vet tells you your dog has ALL its
shots?  Chances are, your dog isn't.  Stay informed and read up in
some of the dog literature about what types of vaccinations your dog
should have.  Then make sure your vet has administered vaccines for the
appropriate things -- it's up to YOU to make sure your dog has *all*
its shots, not your vet.


H.  Canine Ailments.

1. Hip Dysplasia (HD, or C(anine)HD)

Classic hip dysplasia starts at 4-6 months when the puppy starts
limping and having trouble getting up and sitting down.  In some
cases, the hips may be replaced, in others, the puppy may have to be
put down.  Sometimes the severity is light enough, that, while they
should never be bred or utilized as working dogs, they will make fine
pets.

Conditions that may aggravate the clinical symptoms of HD: obesity,
slippery floors, over-exercising in puppyhood and (during puppyhood)
dog food that causes an imbalance between the growth rate of the
muscles and the surrounding ligaments (see the second FAQ regarding
puppies and food).

OFA has a certification process that grades dog's hips, but this
cannot be done until about 2 years of age (see Breeding, in Assorted
Topics), and is no guarantee for that dog's puppies.

In 1975, a research program was started to find the background to HD
and some mental problems.  They found that HD was highly dependent on
heritage.

They then introduced new criteria for choosing breeding animals:
  1.  Animals that did not have HD.
  2.  Only animals where at most _one_ of the siblings had
      had non-severe HD, and _none_ of the siblings had a
      severe case of HD.
  3.  They also evaluated the offspring of all male dogs
      used for breeding.

After four years the rate of HD had been reduced to 10% (from 50-60%),
and today 3-6% of their dogs have HD or some other defect.

They have during this period observed an increasing rate of dogs that
could not be used because of mental problems.  The current breeding
program aims at improving mental qualities, without increasing the
rate of HD (apparently successfully).

This information is from:

	Erik Wilsson and Johan B. Steen (1987): "Hundfostran",
	Bonniers Fakta Bokfoerlag, ISBN 91-34-50923-2.

Erik Wilsson is Manager of Education at Statens Hundskola.  The title
means "Dog Upbringing" and is really an introductory text on training
your dog.  They make numerous comparisons between the social structure
of wolf packs, and the relationship between man and dog in a family.
A very good book; unfortunately in Swedish.

Another reference:

Lanting, Fred L. _Canine Hip Dysplasia and Other Orthopedic Problems_.
Alpine Publications, Inc. Loveland, CO, 1981.  ISBN 0-931866-06-5.
  Available from RC Steele.

And many others are in the References section of the FAQ.

2.  Bloody Stools

Blood in the stool can appear in several ways, each indicating a
different problem.  Black stools mean bleeding high up in the
digestive tract, most likely a bleeding stomach ulcer.  Reddish stools
indicate blood further down the pipe, after the digestive juices have
been neutralized somewhat.  This can be anything from ulcers in the small
intestine to ulcerative colitis.  Red blotches/streaks on the surface of
the stools (with normal color otherwise) indicate bleeding in the last
segment of the large intestine or rectum, after the stool has begun to
solidify (the function of the large intestine is to neutralize
digestive juices and absorb liquid).  This can be ulcerative
colitis (or some other inflammatory bowel disease) or bleeding
hemorrhoids.  Each of these problems can be very serious, and in some
cases life-threatening (with the exception of hemorrhoids).

Coloring (natural or artificial) in food can also directly color the
stool so you can't be sure of anything without a chemical analysis. A
sudden diet change/addition can also affect stool color.

Get a sample to the vet.  If it is a bleeding problem, you've got to
get treatment right away.  The symptoms of a digestive disease do not
necessarily persist for a long time.  They will come and go.  Once
they stick around for an extended period of time, the condition is
rather severe.

3.  Kidney Failure

Acute kidney failure, or kidney failure, is sudden and extreme and
requires urgent care. Usually the dog recovers completely if it
survives at all.

Chronic kidney failure, or kidney disease, is common in old dogs. The
kidneys slowly wear out over a long time.  It can be diagnosed by a
blood test or urinalysis. Early signs include drinking and urinating
more, since the kidneys need extra water, and foamy urine is sometimes
seen.

Treatment is mostly dietary.  They need a very low protein diet that
is also low in certain minerals.  The kidneys are stressed by too much
protein and will wear out more slowly on a low protein diet.  Dogs
with sick kidneys should be given all the water they will drink.

The best known kidney diet is Hills K/D, but there is also Hi-Tor
Neodiet, Neura Kidney Diet, and others. Some "senior dog food" is low
in protein as well, but not as low as the kidney foods.

If you have any reason to suspect it, have the dog checked by a vet.
Many old-dog kidney cases live happily for years with no special care
other than the food.

4.  Distemper

(summarized From Carlson & Giffin)

Distemper is the leading cause of infectious disease death in dogs,
most commonly in unvaccinated puppies 3-8 months of age.  Among
infected dogs: half show little in the way of illness; many show mild
symptoms; and in a few the illness is severe or fatal.  Malnourished
and ill-kept dogs tend to show more acute forms of the disease.
Secondary infections and complications with distemper are common.
Prognosis depends on how quickly the dog is diagnosed and treated, and
which form of the disease the dog has.

There are two stages.  Symptoms in the first stage include fever, loss
of appetite, listlessness, and a watery discharge from the eyes and
nose.  It may appear like a cold -- but dogs do not get colds the way
people do; a "cold" is therefore much more serious in a dog than in a
person.  Within a few days the discharge will thicken: a primary
indication of distemper.  Dry cough, pus blisters on the stomach,
diarrhea (and associated dehydration) may follow.  At this point, the
dog may recover, or proceed on to the second stage which involves the
brain.  Dogs with brain involvement do not usually survive.

5.  Leptospirosis

(summarized From Carlson & Giffin)

In most cases the disease is mild.  Primary symptoms are fever,
listlessness, loss of appetite and depression.  Other symptoms involve
the kidneys: a "hunched up" look due to kidney pain, ulcers on the
mucus membranes of the mouth and tongue, thick brown coating on the
tongue, bleeding from the mouth or bloody stools, severe thirst with
increased urination.  The whites of the eyes may turn yellow.
Persistent vomiting and diarrhea are common.  This disease is more
prevalent in some areas than others.

6.  Infectious Canine Hepatitis

(summarized From Carlson & Giffin)

This disease should NOT be confused with human hepatitis.  This is a
highly contagious disease transmissible only to dogs.  It affects the
liver, kidneys and lining of the blood vessels.  It can sometimes be
hard to distinguish from distemper as there are a variety of signs and
symptoms that range from mild to fatal.  Exposed dogs rapidly become
contagious and remain contagious throughout convalescence.

Fatal form: the dog becomes ill, develops bloody diarrhea, collapses
and dies.  Puppies may die without symptoms.

Acute form: High fever, bloody diarrhea, possibly bloody vomit.
Refusal to eat and painful movements.  The dog can become
light-sensitive.  After recovery, a clouding of the cornea may occur
(called "blue eye").

Mild form: Lethargy, possible loss of appetite.

7.  Kennel Cough (Infectious Tracheobronchitis)

This is characterized by a harsh, convulsive cough.  It is persistent,
contagious, and often develops into secondary complications, such as
chronic bronchitis.  This disease can eventually be fatal.

"Kennel Cough" is a generic name for a set of symptoms caused by a
number of organisms. These include parainfluenza as well as
bordatella, as well as many others.  Dogs vaccinated with the
bordatella vaccine can still get "kennel cough" because of all the
bugs involved, but it tends to be much less severe.

Bordatella vaccine is squirted into each nostril of the dog and lasts
about a year.  Parainfluenza vaccine should be a normal part of your
dog's regular shots.

8.  Canine Parvovirus (CPV)

This is a recent disease, first noted in the late seventies.  It is
highly contagious and puppies have the highest mortality.  There is a
vaccine available, and you should make sure your dog is up on its
shots.  In some areas where parvo is prevalent, you may need booster
shots every six months instead of every year.

Parvovirus comes in several forms:

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Diarrhea syndrome: Severe depression, loss of appetite, vomiting.
Extreme pain.  High fever follows with profuse diarrhea.  No other
disease comes close to matching the amount of diarrhea induced by CPV.

Cardiac syndrome: Affects the muscles of the heart, especially in
puppies.  Puppies stop nursing, cry and gasp for breath.  Death can
occur suddenly or after several days.  Puppies that recover often
develop chronic congestive heart failure that may kill them several
months later.

Dogs may have either or both syndromes.  Treatment is difficult,
requiring hospitalization; those who recover are immune.  The quarters
of an infected dog should be thoroughly sterilized; a solution of 1:30
bleach and water is recommended.  As with any use of bleach, make sure
you do not mix it with ammonia, which results in mustard gas and can
kill you and your dog.  Be sure to rinse the bleach off thoroughly
after application.

In the US, there is a current upswing in Parvo infections.  Make sure
your dog is up-to-date on its vaccinations.  Don't let a too-young
puppy roam where possibly infected dogs have been (for example, in the
park).

9.  Breathing disorders

Dogs that breath noisily may have a serious health problem.  For
example, some animals have an elongated palate, which prevents them
from breathing properly.  The animal can also have a hard time
drinking and eating.  This also can affect the heart since it has to
work extra hard to breath.

If your dog has this problem check with your vet.  There is an
operation that can correct the problem of elongated palates.  In any
case, dogs should not be constantly panting and breathing noisily, so
a vet check is in order.

10.  Thyroid disorders

Common symptoms are:
  * seeking warm places to curl up
  * lessened activity
  * slow coat growth, brittle fur
  * ring around the neck where fur won't grow, or loss of hair in trunk
  * loss of appetite/excessive appetite
  * dry, thickened skin
  * prone to skin infections
  * infertility

Dogs are often middle-aged or older, although this also occurs in
younger dogs.  According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, hypothyroidism
is common in all breeds and all sexes, although the incidence is
highest in spayed females.  Treatment involves daily thyroid pills, a
permanent regimen.

In the March '92 issue of Dog World is an excellent article,
"Autoimmune thyroid disease" by Dr. Jean Dodds DVM (a nationally
recognized expert on the subject) explains a lot about thyroid
conditions in dogs.  She also goes to great effort to explain that
dogs can be hypothyroid WITHOUT showing the "classic" signs.  She also
explains typical course of treatment and followups.  There's also a
long list of breeds that are "predisposed" to problems.

More subtle signs:
  * overweight despite controlled diets
  * thin coats (not hair loss)
  * smelling bad
  * chronic ear infections
  * seizures.

The article by Dr. Dodds points out that the "subtle" signs are just
now being recognized by the veterinary community.

There is another article about thyroid problems in the Sept or Oct
('91) Dog World.

11.  Gastric Torsion (gastric dilation, torsion complex)

A condition more commonly seen in larger breeds.  Gas in the stomach
causes it to swell.  In some cases, the stomach rotates on its axis,
closing off both ends of it.  Digestive processes continue unabated
and the stomach swells up.  This is fatal untreated; survival depends
on understanding what is happening and getting the dog to the vet, the
earlier the better.

Some facts (from Carlson & Giffin):
  * Dogs who bloat are almost always at least 2 years old.
  * Two-thirds are male.
  * Larger, deeper chested breeds are affected.
  * They eat large amounts of dry kibble.
  * They exercise vigorously after eating and tend to drink water in
    large amounts after meals.
  * They may have a history of digestive upsets.
  * There may be a familial association with other dogs who bloat.

According to Carlson & Giffin, the symptoms are: excessive salivation
and drooling, extreme restlessness, attempts to vomit and defecate,
evidence of abdominal pain and abdominal distension.  History is
important: in nearly all cases, there is a history of overeating,
eating fermented foods, drinking excessively after eating, or taking
vigorous exercise after a meal (within two or three hours).

If your dog is able to belch or vomit, it is more likely a gastric
upset.  If it cannot, rush it to the vet or emergency care *now* for
emergency surgery.

If your dog is at risk for gastric bloat, you should discuss it with
your vet before a possible episode.  Your vet may recommend (and
demonstrate) some things you can try to do as life-saving measures
while getting it to the vet.  Feeding smaller portions of food and
preventing exercise immediately after eating are approaches taken by
many owners.

12.  Brucellosis

Brucellosis is one of the few venereal diseases among dogs.  It is
associated with testicular atrophy.  It causes sterilization (sometime
obvious, sometimes not) in the male, embryonic reabsorption, abortion,
weak pups that die soon after birth and eventual sterility in females.
Males are contagious for months through their semen, females are
contagious for several weeks after the failed pregnancy.

*Brucellosis may be passed to humans.*  It can cause suppressed immune
systems and sterility in humans.

Diagnosis can be quickly made, although animals tested less than three
weeks after exposure will show negative.  False positives are
possible; followup diagnosis with more reliable methods should follow
any initial positives.

Treatment for brucellosis is not generally very successful and often
very expensive.  Extensive antibiotic therapy, evaluation and
additional testing will add up quickly, with no guarantee of success.
No vaccine is available.

Any animal with brucellosis should not be bred, and should be
eliminated from the kennel or other breeding stock before infecting
the entire colony.  Animals entering the breeding area, male and
female, should be tested for brucellosis PRIOR TO breeding.

13.  Eye problems

There are three main eye problems in dogs.  These are CPRA (Central
Progressive Retinal Atrophy), GPRA (Generalized Progressive Retinal
Atrophy), and CEA (Collie Eye Anomaly).

CEA (Collie Eye Anomaly) is the most common form of eye problem found
in the collie, both rough and smooth variety.  It is also found in the
border collie, shetland sheepdog, and bearded collie.  It is believed
to by controlled by a genetic cluster, or large group of genes, and
thus, it is hard to control by breeding, and ranges in severity.

PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy) is common in MANY breeds of dogs
(including mixed breeds), and is not isolated to the collie like the
CEA tends to be.

THERE IS NO CORRELATION BETWEEN CEA AND PRA!

Generalized PRA affects the entire retina.  Most dogs with GPRA become
night blind at three and are usually totally blind by five.
Generalized PRA has been detected as early as six weeks in puppies,
and these puppies are usually blind by six to eight months.  An
electroretinography can be used to detect the early signs of PRA.
Animals to be tested in this manner are anesthetized while lenses are
placed on the eyes to record the retina's reaction to light. (Like
wearing contacts.)

ALL dogs affected with PRA eventually go blind.

GPRA is believed to be transmitted by a simple autosomal recessive
gene.  Studies have shown that both parents must be carriers for any
offspring to be affected.  Breeding PRA affected animals to PRA
NON-affected animals results in 100% carriers for the PRA gene.  The
most common form of PRA in the collie is generalized PRA and it is
detectable at an early age (6wks and over).

The other form, Central PRA, is uncommon and usually occurs between
three and five years old, but has been detected as early as three
weeks.  The mode of transmission is not known.  Animals with CPRA can
usually see moving objects because the peripheral vision is retained
longer, but often will collide with stationary objects.  An
electroretinogram is not able to detect the CPRA.

NOTE:  In October 1945 the Kennel Club of England added PRA to
the list of disqualifications from winning any award in the show ring.

For more information on Canine Eye disease contact:
CERF (Canine Eye Registration Foundation)
South Campus Courts C
Purdue University
West Lafayette, IN  47906

This section has been compiled by the wealth of information located in:

Rubin, Lionel F.  _Inherited Eye Diseases in Purebred Dogs_.

Vanderlip, Sharon Lynn, DVM.  _The Collie: A Veterinary Reference for the
Professional Breeder_.

CERF pamphlets.

Please consult these books and others for more breed specific
information.

14.  Anal Sacs

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Normally, anal sacs are emptied when the dog defecates.  Some dogs
with overactive anal glands may require occasional help.  Your vet can
demonstrate the procedure.

Impaction: occurs when the anal sacs fail to empty properly.  This is
more common in smaller breeds.  Squeezing the sacs yourself as needed
will control the problem.

Infection: complicates impaction.  There is blood or pus in the
secretions, and the dog may scoot (drag its rear on the ground).  It
may be painful.  Check with your vet for an antibiotic you can apply
after you empty the sacs.

Abscess: Signs of anal infection, with a swelling at the site of the
gland.  It goes from initially red to a deep purple.  You will have to
have it lanced and cleaned by the vet.

Dogs whose anal sacs become repeatedly infected and/or abscessed will
need to have the glands removed.  Surgery is uncomplicated, although
the dog will have poor bowel control for the next few days after
surgery.  Try putting a pair of small boy's underpants, with the dog's
tail through the third opening, on the dog to contain accidents.

15.  Heartworms

Indications may not appear until a full year has passed since
infection.  Because of this, the disease is often mistaken for another
problem.  The most persistant sign is a soft, deep cough.  After
exercise, the cough may be so severe that that the dog faints.  Weight
loss, discharge of bloody sputum, listlessness, and weakness are also
common (from Carlson & Giffin).

Heartworm is a very serious disease (parasite, actually).  It is
transmitted through mosquitos.  The heartworm larvae then travel
through a dog's blood stream to its heart and lungs where the worms
grow and grow and grow.  The only effective treatment once a dog has
contracted heartworms is arsenic.  Please be sure that your vet does
preliminary blood work on your dog prior to administering the
treatment--this will ensure that your dogs liver is healthy enough to
metabolize the drug.  Understand that it is a risky treatment, but it
is the only known effective treatment.

Dogs that undergo successful treatment recover completely provided they
go on heartworm preventive afterwards.  There usually are no long-term
effects if the disease was detected early in its development.
Sometimes a cough may linger.  You will need to keep the dog's
activity level to a minimum for quite a few months following treatment
to prevent any of the dead worms from clogging your dog's heart and
causing a heart attack.  Following the treatment, you will also want
to start your dog on the preventive medicine as soon as your vet says
it's possible.


I.  Disease Transmission (Zoonoses).

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Any worm infestation has the potential of causing problems in humans.
Standard hygienic precautions will avoid most of these.  Things to
watch for: babies getting infected when playing near or on
contaminated soil or feces, working in the garden without gloves.

Rabies, toxoplasmosis, brucellosis, and tetanus (lockjaw) can all
affect both dogs and humans.  Again, simple hygienic precautions will
avoid most problems.


J.  Worms.

1.  Summary

Worm          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roundworms  | Pot belly, dull coat, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of weight
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hookworms   | Anemia, diarrhea, bloody stools (esp. puppies)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Tapeworms   | "Rice" on anal area or in stools, possible diarrhea/vomiting
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Whipworms   | Loss of weight, some diarrhea, difficult to detect
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Threadworms | Profuse watery diarrhea, lung infection symptoms (esp. puppies)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

2.  Prevention

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin.)

Most worms have a lifecycle that makes it easy to reinfest dogs
because only part of that lifecycle is on the dog.  Steps you can take
to control worms in general:

  * If you have a kennel, do not use dirt.  A water tight surface that
    can be hosed down is best; gravel works also.  Remove stools from
    pens daily.
  * Lawns should be kept short and watered only when necessary.
    Remove stools from the yard at least weekly.
  * Control fleas, lice, and rodents, as all these pests can be
    intermediate hosts for tapeworms.
  * Do not let your dog roam, as it may ingest tainted meat.  Any meat
    fed to your dog must be thoroughly cooked.

2.  Puppies

Most puppies have worms, as some immunity to worms only comes after
six months of ages and the mother will infect them with her dormant
worm larvae.  Puppies should be wormed at 2-3 weeks and again at 4-6
weeks.  You should be especially vigilant for worms while your puppy
is still growing; a bad case of worms can seriously interfere with its
development.  Bring fresh fecal samples in regularly to the vet for
analysis.

3.  Roundworms

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin.)

Adult roundworms live in the intestines and are one to seven inches
long.  The eggs are deposited in soil and can survive for months or
years. Dogs become infected upon contact with contaminated soil when
the eggs migrate to the intestines and hatch.  As larvae, they are
carried in the bloodstream to the lungs where they crawl up the
windpipe and are swallowed.  This generally happens in puppies; with
older dogs, the larvae do not return to the intestines but become
dormant.

Roundworms present a danger to puppies, not adult dogs.  Symptoms
include a pot-belly and a dull coat.  Also, vomiting (sometimes
including worms), diarrhea, loss of weight, and failure to thrive.
Worms may be passed in the stool, and they appear as strands of
spaghetti.

4.  Hookworms

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin.)

Hookworms are about one half inch long and fasten to the wall of the
small intestine and draw blood from the host.  Hookworm larvae are
found in contaminated soil or feces.  The larvae migrate to the
intestines and the dog will begin passing eggs within two weeks.
Unborn puppies can acquire hookworms in the uterus; newborns can be
infected through the mother's milk and sicken and die rapidly.

Typical signs of acute infestation are anemia and diarrhea.  Stools
often will be dark and bloody.  These symptoms are typically seen in
puppies and only rarely in adult dogs.  Adult dogs may have chronic
infestation: diarrhea, anemia, and some weight loss.

5.  Tapeworms

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin.)

Tapeworms are found in the small intestine.  The head fastens to the
intestinal wall and the body is formed of segments containing egg
packets.  These segments pass in the stools.  When fresh, the segments
may move; when dry they resemble rice grains.  You may find them stuck
around the anus.

Ill side effects are rare.  Changes in the texture and condition of
the coat may be noted.  Severe infestations may result in mild
diarrhea, loss of appetite, or reduction in weight.

6.  Whipworms

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin.)

A two-to-three inch long worm, it lives in the large intestine.  As
the worm lays few eggs, infestations are usually light.  Heavy
infestations are possible in heavily contaminated areas.  These dogs
lose weight and frequently have diarrhea.  Difficult to detect because
of the slow reproductive rate of the worms.

7.  Threadworm

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin.)

Thread worm are small round worms that live in the intestines.  Eggs
and larvae may pass through the stools.  They may be acquired by
ingestion or direct penetration of the skin.

An infested puppy may have profuse watery diarrhea and signs of lung
infection (which may resemble distemper).


K.  Pills and Dosing.

There are many devices to aid in dosing and pilling.  Pill plungers
are effective and available from RC Steele.  A syringe with no needle
is good for liquids.  Ask your vet for some other ideas.

1.  Pills

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Open your dog's mouth and drop the pill down as far back as you can,
on top of and in the center of the tongue.  Close the dogs mouth and
hold it shut while stroking the throat until your dog swallows.  If it
licks its nose, chances are that it swallowed the pill.  Giving it a
treat afterwards helps insure that the pill is swallowed.

You can try hiding the pills in a treat, say cheese or peanut butter.
Pill plungers work well, also.

2.  Liquids

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Tilt the chin up at 45 degrees, and place the neck of the bottle into
the cheek pouch, between the molar teeth and the cheek.  Seal the lips
around it with your fingers and pour in the liquid.  Large amounts can
be given this way.  Hold the muzzle firmly while the dog swallows.
Bottles, syringes and eyedroppers can be used.  Your vet can help you
out here.


L.  Vomiting.

One of the most common and non-specific symptoms that a dog can have.
You must look at how and what it is vomiting.  If your dog vomits once
or twice and then seems its normal self, it is probably not serious.

1.  Non-serious causes

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Most commonly: overeating.  Animals that gulp their food and
immediately exercise (esp. puppies) are likely to vomit.  This is not
serious.  Feeding in smaller portions more often helps eliminate this
problem.  In particular, if the vomit looks like a solid tube of
partially or non digested food, your dog ate too fast.

Eating grass or other indigestible material is also a common cause of
vomiting.

2.  Types of vomiting

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Repeated vomiting: Its last meal is first vomited.  Then a clear,
frothy liquid.  This suggests a stomach irritant.  Grass, spoiled
food, other indigestibles, and certain infectious illnesses (such as
gastroenteritis) all cause irritation of the stomach lining.

Sporadic vomiting: The dog vomits off and on, but not continuously.
No relationship to meals, poor appetite.  Haggard appearance and
listlessness may indicate an internal organ disorder, a chronic
illness, a heavy worm infestation, or diabetes.  A thorough checkup is
called for.

Vomiting blood: Fresh blood indicates a break in the mucus lining
somewhere between the mouth and the upper small bowel.  Common causes
are foreign bodies, tumors and ulcers.  Material which looks like
coffee grounds is old, partly digested blood -- the problem is
somewhere in the stomach or duodenum.  Vomiting blood is always
serious and requires a trip to the vet.

Fecal vomiting: If the vomit is foul and smells like feces, there is
an obstruction somewhere in the intestinal tract.  Blunt or
penetrating abdominal trauma is another cause.  The dog will become
rapidly dehydrated with this type of vomiting and requires vet
attention.

Projectile vomiting: The vomit is forcefully expelled, sometimes for a
distance of several feet.  It is indicative of complete blockage in
the upper gastrointestinal tract.  Foreign bodies, hairballs, duodenal
ulcers, tumors and strictures are possible causes.  Intracranial
pressure can also cause projectile vomiting, causes can be brain
tumor, encephalitis, and blood clots.  Take the dog to the vet.

Vomiting foreign objects: Includes bone splinters, rubber balls,
(pieces of) toys, sticks and stones.  Sometimes worms.  You may want
to have the vet check your pet for any other foreign objects, although
not all of these will show up readily on x-ray scans.

Emotional vomiting: Sometimes excited or upset dogs vomit.  Remove the
dog from the source of distress.  If it is something it will encounter
often, you will have to train the dog to remain calm around the
source.

Motion sickness: Vomits in the car.  Most dogs will outgrow this
problem.  Check with your vet if it does not.  See Carsickness in
Assorted Topics for further comments.


M.  Poisons.

1.  Local Poison Control Centers

Check the emergency room of the local hospital and ask for the number
of the local Poison Control Center.  You should have this number up on
the refrigerator alongside the vet's number and the emergency care
number.

2.  National Animal Poison Control Center

The NAPCC is a non-profit service of the University of Illinois and is
the first animal-oriented poison center in the United States.  Since
1978, it has provided advice to animal owners and conferred with
veterinarians about poisoning exposures.  The NAPCC's phones are
answered by licensed veterinarians and board-certified veterinary
toxicologists.

The NAPCC is staffed with veterinary health professionals who are
familiar with how different species respond to poisons and treatment
protocols.  They have specialized information that lets the
experienced NAPCC staff make specific recommendations for your
animals.

Depending on which option is chosen, the charge is $2.75 per minute
when using the 900-680-0000 number, or $25.00 per case (Visa,
Mastercard, or American Express only) when using the 800-548-2423
number.  With either access, the NAPCC will do as many follow-up calls
as necessary in critical cases, and, if you wish, will consult with
your veterinarian.  Some clients of the NAPCC Animal Product Safety
Service will absorb the cost of your call.

When you call, be ready to provide:
  * Your name, address, and phone number;
  * The species, breed, age, sex, weight, and number of animals involved;
  * The poison your animals have been exposed to, if known;
  * Information concerning the poisoning (the amount of poison, the time
    since exposure, etc.); and
  * The problems your animals are experiencing.

If you are unable to access the 900 number, call your telephone
company for assistance or use the 800 number.  When the 800 number is
used, your credit card number will be required in addition to the
above information.

2.  Chocolate

It is not chocolate itself that is poisonous to dogs, it is the
ingredient theobromine.  Theobromine causes different reactions to
different dogs: dogs with health problems, especially epilepsy, are
more affected by theobromine than healthy dogs.  Theobromine can
trigger epileptic seizures in dogs prone to or at risk of epilepsy.
The size of the dog will also be a major factor: the smaller the dog,
the more affected it is by the same amount than a larger dog.

Theobromine is also present in differing amounts in different kinds of
chocolate.  Cocoa powder has none; milk chocolate relatively little.
Dark chocolate has more and baking/bitter chocolate has quite a bit.

3.  Poisonous houseplants

(from Carlson & Giffin.)

  * That give rash after contact with the skin or mouth:
    (mums might produce dermatitis)

    chrysanthemum        poinsettia           creeping fig
    weeping fig          spider mum           pot mum

  * Irritating (toxic oxalates), especially the mouth gets swollen;
    tongue pain; sore lips; some swell so quickly a tracheotomy is
    needed before asphyxiation:

    arrowhead vine       majesty              boston ivy
    neththytis ivy       colodium             pathos
    emerald duke         red princess         heart leaf (philodendron)
    split leaf (phil.)   saddle leaf (phil.)  marble queen

  * Toxic plants - may contain wide variety of poisons.  Most cause
    vomiting, abdominal pain, cramps.  Some cause tremors, heart and
    respiratory and/or kidney problems, which are difficult for
    owner to interpret:

    amaryllis            elephant ears        pot mum
    asparagus fern       glocal ivy           ripple ivy
    azalea               heart ivy            spider mum
    bird of paradise     ivy                  sprangeri fern
    creeping charlie     jerusalem cherry     umbrella plant
    crown of thorns      needlepoint ivy

4.  Poisonous outdoor plants

(from Carlson & Giffin.)

  * Produce vomiting and diarrhea in some cases:

    delphinium           poke weed            indian tobacco
    daffodil             bittersweet woody    wisteria
    castor bean          ground cherry        soap berry
    indian turnip        fox glove            skunk cabbage
    larkspur

  * May produce vomiting, abdominal pain, and in some cases diarrhea

    horse chestnut buckeye   western yew      apricot, almond
    rain tree monkey pod     english holly    peach, cherry
    privet                   wild cherry      mock orange
    japanese plum            american yew     bird of paradise
    balsam pear              english yew      black locust

  * Varied toxic effect

    rhubarb               buttercup           moonseed
    spinach               nightshade          may apple
    sunburned potatoes    poison hemolock     dutchman's breeches
    tomato vine           jimson weed         mescal bean
    loco weed             pig weed            angel's trumpet
    lupine                water hemlock       jasmine
    dologeton             mushrooms           matrimony vine
    dumb cane

  * Hallucinogens

    marijuana             periwinkle          morning glory
    peyote                nutmeg              loco weed

  * Convulsions

    china berry           nux vomica          coriaria
    water hemlock         moon weed

N.  Aging.

Although aging is irreversible, some of the infirmities of an older
dog may in fact be due to disease and therefore correctable or
preventable.  It is important for any dog over six years of age to be
examined thoroughly every six months.

1.  Behavioral changes

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Older dogs are more complacent, less energetic and curious.  They may
be forgetful, and sleep more.  Crankiness and irritability are common.
They are less tolerant of changes in the environment; in particular
you may wish to have someone come by and check the dog at home rather
than kennel it when you leave on vacation.  Older dogs in hospitals
and kennels go off their feed, become overanxious, and bark frequently.

2.  Physical changes

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Loss of muscular tone and lessened activity may result in the neck and
body becoming more bulky, but the legs more thin.  Resistance to cold
is impaired and older dogs should always have a warm and draft-free
bed.  Arthritic dogs may need a padded surface on which to sleep.

Moderate exercise helps keep the joints supple, and should be
encouraged, but not beyond its ability to do so.  Also, some
conditions, such as heart trouble, may necessitate restraining it from
exercise.  Toe nails will require more frequent trimming.  Stiffening
joints may make it more difficult for the dog to keep its genital and
anal areas clean.  The skin may dry out and require some care to keep
it clean and less dry.

Loss of hearing and sight may occur.  Tooth and gum disease is fairly
common.  Kidney failure and disease is more common (look for increased
thirst and other symptoms of kidney failure).  Incontinence (mostly in
older spayed females, treatable with estrogen) may appear.

An older dog needs less calories; the food must be of high quality so
that it still gets the nutrition it needs with fewer calories.

3.  Geriatric Vestibular Disorder

Common in older dogs, apparently something happens neurologically in
the connection between the brain and the inner ear (sometimes
infection, sometimes inflammation).  Very little is actually known
about it, but it does tend to subside after about a day or so.
Unfortunately, the dog is generally unable to eat or drink, as it is
completely disoriented.

Dogs rarely show any enduring effects from such an episode other than
sometimes their head leaning or tilting to one side.

----------------
This file is not copyrighted.  It is in the public domain and may
*not* be copyrighted by anyone.  Please feel free to forward copies of
this to anyone you like.  I only ask that you keep the document
intact, including the addresses below so that any recipient knows
where to query about possible updates.  Include a self addressed,
stamped envelope on postal queries.


Archive-name: dogs-faq/working
Version: 1.0
Last-modified: 17 May 1992

This is one (of eight) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The eight parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu in the
directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, training, working, AKC-titles, misc1,
and references.  To obtain the files, first try ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp does not
work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
...etc, in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).

Changes and additions indicated with |'s.
This is still rough in some places.  In particular, I would like:
1) additional information on water rescue
2) additional info on dogs & frisbee & any other "game" activity

V.  Companion and Working Dogs.

  A.  Dogs for the Blind
  B.  Hearing and Signal Dogs.
  C.  Canine Companions for Independence.
  D.  Search and Rescue Dogs.
  E.  Water Rescue Dogs.
  F.  Narcotics and Evidence Dogs.
  G.  Schutzhund.
  H.  Police Dogs.
  I.  Sled Dogs.
  J.  Gaming Dogs.


A.  Dogs for the Blind

My thanks to Rusty Wright for the information on Guide Dogs.

Dogs can be trained to accompany and guide blind people.  Most
commonly referred to as "Seeing Eye Dogs" or "Guide Dogs," there are
actually several organizations within the US and many abroad that
train dogs to guide the blind.

There are (at least) two organizations in the US that provide guide
dogs for blind people.  In the East it's The Seeing Eye (Morristown,
NJ), and in the West it's Guide Dogs for the Blind (San Rafael, CA).
There is Leader Dogs for the Blind in the Michigan area.  [more
detailed addresses?]

Dogs guiding the blind must not only be able to guide their owner
through traffic, obstacles, etc, but also must ignore other people,
dogs, and distractions.  They are, by law in most places, allowed to
enter any building or establishment.

1.  Guide Dogs for the Blind [US]

Guide Dogs got started in 1942.  It costs them about $40,000 per dog.
This reflects how much money they get in donations: to arrive at this
figure they take their total yearly operating costs and divide it by
the number of successful dogs they produce.

The breeds used by Guide Dogs are black and yellow Lab, Golden
Retriever, and German Shepherd.  The males and females used for
breeding live in homes as regular "pets."  They go back to Guide Dogs
to be bred and the females go back when they're in season even if they
aren't going to be bred.  The females are bred once a year.  The
females also go back to whelp and raise their puppies in the Guide Dog
kennels.  All of these breeders live in homes within a 50 mile radius
of Guide Dogs.

Families who raise the puppies simply train them in basic dog
obedience, and stress lots of socialization and good manners.  For
example, if you go to a dog show, you are likely to see several such
puppies there, learning to take it all in stride.  The dogs go back
for their formal training when they're about 1.5 years old, although
they can go back as young as 1.0 year old.

Children are preferred as puppy raisers, hence the coordination with
4-H.  Interestingly enough, the puppies raised by kids are more likely
to make it through the formal guide dog training.  In other words,
puppies raised by kids have a statistically higher success rate than
puppies raised by adults.  The difference is not drastic, but is
"significant."

When dogs go back for their training they're carefully screened for
any hip abnormalities.  If the hips aren't very good they're
immediately "retired."  The formal training takes about 6 months.
During this time they live in the kennels at Guide Dogs.  During their
formal training they get a letter grade (A-F) each week.  Dogs can
fail for a variety of reasons.  As you might guess, some dogs don't
transition well from living in a puppy raiser's home to living in the
kennels and just get stressed out and fail.  The puppy raiser gets the
option of keeping a dog that failed (either for medical reasons or
didn't make it through training).  If the puppy raiser can't keep the
dog (e.g., they already have enough dogs) the puppy raiser can place
it in a home.  The puppy raiser can also let Guide Dogs place the dog;
the waiting list is at least 3 years long, so if you'd like a "change
of career" dog, your best bet is to get to know a puppy raiser.

Before a guide dog is given to a blind person the blind person must
attend training at Guide Dogs.  This training is 4 weeks long.  During
this time the blind person lives in the dorms at Guide Dogs.  There
are about 12 people in each 4-week class.  The first week of training
is without the dog.  During the last week of training they make field
trips to downtown San Francisco.  People coming back to get a
replacement dog take a 2-week "refresher" class; I think they join the
4-week class at the start of the 3rd week.  A graduation ceremony is
held on Saturday at 1pm, every 4 weeks at Guide Dogs for the Blind in
San Rafael.  The puppy raisers come to the graduation ceremony and
each puppy raiser formally presents the guide dog they raised to the
blind person.  (As you can imagine, it's a rather tearful ceremony.)
The public is welcome to come to the graduations; they are held
outdoors and attire is casual.  If you live in northern California, or
will be visiting the area and would like to attend a graduation, you
can call Guide Dogs at (415) 499-4000 and get the date of the next
graduation and directions how to get there.  After the graduation
ceremony there is a demonstration of a working guide dog and tours of
the kennels and facilities.

Guide Dogs for the Blind is a completely non-profit organization and
survives entirely on donations.  The blind people don't pay any money
for the guide dog.  The guide dog is still owned by Guide Dogs while
the blind person has it; there have been occasional cases where the
blind person just wasn't equipped or prepared to have a dog and the
dog is returned to Guide Dogs.  Guide Dogs makes a yearly visit with
each blind person that has one of their dogs to check on the dog's
health, behavior, etc.

If you live in the west and you (or your kids) would like to raise a
guide dog puppy, call Guide Dogs at (415) 499-4000.  If you live
within 50 miles of Guide Dogs and would like to take care of a
breeder, you can also call the above phone number.  If you live in
southern California there is also a satellite center in Topanga; their
phone number is (213) 455-1095.

2.  Statens Hundskola [Sweden]

In Sweden (Statens Hundskola) they screen the dogs at least twice, the
first time just before sexual maturity to determine if a male dog will
be neutered.  Their main problem is that so many dogs wind up
unsuitable, so they are starting an education programme for the people
who take care of the puppies.

[I envision sections on Seeing Eye, UK Guide dogs, etc, being added.]

3.  References

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J.  _The new knowledge of dog behavior_.
Foreword by J. P. Scott.  Consultant on genetics: Benson E. Ginsburg.
New York, Howell Book House, 1963.
  Gives an excellent history of how Guide Dogs was started, and has
  other interesting information.

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J., et al., with the editorial assistance of
Sarah F. Scott. _Guide Dogs for the Blind, Their Selection,
Development, and Training_.  Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Scientific
Pub.  Co.; distributors for the U.S. and Canada, Elsevier/North
Holland, 1976.
  Many specific details on the genetics, training, 4-H project
  coordination, and so forth.  Includes a history of the organization.

Harrington, Paula.  _Looking ahead: Guide Dogs for the Blind_. 1st ed.
San Rafael, CA: Guide Dogs for the Blind, c1990.
  This one is sort of a "coffee table" book; lots of nice color
  photographs, and it covers the history of Guide Dogs, the training
  (both for the dog and the blind person), the 4-H puppy raisers, and
  lots of other stuff.


B.  Hearing and Signal Dogs.

Other dogs are trained to assist deaf people.  They alert their owner
to a variety of sounds, usually by coming up to the person and going
back to the source of the sound.  They will signal on door bell and
knocking, phones, smoke alarms, crying babies and much more.  They are
licensed as are guide dogs and are to be permitted anywhere,
although since they are not as widely recognized, their owners often
have to display their permit.

There are several organizations that train hearing dogs; CCI (below)
is one of them.  Others (I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the
addresses except where noted):

* American Humane Association, 5351 S. Roslyn Street, Englewood,
  Colorado 80111.  (303-779-1400.

* Audio Dogs, 27 Crescent Street, Brooklyn, New York 11208.
  212-827-2792.

* Dogs for the Deaf, Applegate Behavior Station, 13260 Highway 238,
  Jacksonville, Oregon 97530.  503-899-7177.

* Guide Dog Foundation, 371 Jericho Turnpike, Smithtown, New York
  11787. 516-265-2121.

* Hearing Dog, Inc., Agnes McGrath, Director; 5901 E. 89 Ave.,
  Henderson, Colorado 80640.  303-287-3277 (voice/tty).


* NEADS (New England Assistance Dog Service), P.O. Box 213,
  West Boylston, Massachusetts 01583.  508-835-3304 (TT/voice).
  Verified May '92.

* San Francisco SPCA, Hearing Dog Program, 2500 16th Street, San
  Francisco, CA 94103.  415-554-3020.  Verified March '92.

An organization that teaches deaf people to train their own dogs:

* Handi-Dogs, Inc., PO Box 12563, Tucson, Arizona 85732.  602-326-3412
  or 602-325-6466.


C.  Canine Companions for Independence.

CCI was founded in 1975.  They estimate that each of their dogs takes
about $10,000 to train, a cost covered by donations and volunteer
work.  It is a national-wide organization with many regional chapters.

Northwest Regional Training Center
1215 Sebastopol Road
Santa Rosa, CA 95407-6834
707-579-1985 V/TDD

Satellite Office:
7610 Auburn Blvd., Suite #3
Citrus Heights, CA 95610

National Offices:
P.O. Box 446
Santa Rosa, CA 95402-0446
707-528-0830 V/TDD

This organization is involved in training dogs to assist handicapped
people.  They train signal dogs for the deaf, and dogs for physically
disabled or developmentally disabled persons.

Canine Companions for Independence has provided highly skilled
assistance dogs for people with disabilities since 1975.  CCI started
as a small, at-home organization and has grown into a dynamic
non-profit agency with five regional centers nationwide.

A Canine Companion's specialized training starts in a volunteer puppy
raiser's home.  The puppy raiser is responsible for the young dog's
care, socialization, and the teaching of basic commands.  At 1.5 years
of age, the dog is returned to a CCI regional training center for
eight months of advanced training by a professional CCI instructor.
The dog is then ready for an intensive two-to-three week training camp
where its new owner learns to work with a fully trained dog.

It costs more than US$10,000 to breed, raise, and train each Canine
Companion, yet recipients pay only a US$25 application fee and US$100
for training seminar supplies. The dog is provided completely free of
charge.  CCI depends entirely on donations; it does not receive
government funds.  CCI also relies heavily on the dedication of its
many volunteers, who play a vital role in CCI's mission to provide
exceptional dogs for exceptional people.

They feel very strongly that dogs learn from one another and by
watching other dogs being trained.  They purposely have the kennels
arranged in a sort of circular fashion with the work area in the
center, so while a dog is being trained in the work area the other
dogs in the kennels can watch.  They say it speeds the learning
process significantly.

The breeds CCI uses for service and social dogs are black and yellow
Labs, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Lab/Golden Retriever
mix.  CCI is moving away from using German Shepherds for two reasons:
first, a lot of the public view (and fear) German Shepherds as
"police" or "guard" dogs, and second, German Shepherds bond very
strongly to people and the program is difficult on them because first
they form a strong bond to their puppy raiser, then to their trainer
when they go back to CCI, and then to their eventual handicapped
owner.  For signal dogs they use Corgis and Border Collies.

CCI will work with people in need of assistance to determine if a
properly trained dog can provide that assistance.  Dogs can be taught
to retrieve a variety of things -- even to distinguish between
specific items -- and to manipulate a variety of objects.  Monkeys
have been tried for this purpose, as they are more dexterous.
However, they are not as reliably trainable and are very expensive, so
dogs present a much more practical alternative.  Given some
extensions, such as rope handles on doors and light switches, dogs can
give a disabled person complete mobility within her or his home.

CCI finds and trains a variety of dogs for different forms of
assistance: hearing dogs, physically disabled assistant dogs, even as
therapy dogs.  They are all neutered, as with guide dogs.  People who
are to receive one of the dogs are required to attend a two-week
seminar to learn how to communicate and care for their assistance.  As
needed, the people and their dogs are provided with permits that
identify the dogs as licensed canine companions -- this is enough to
gain entry into most places, as with the more well-known Seeing Eye
dogs.

CCI maintains a "retirement farm" for their dogs that become too old
to carry out their duties; however most owners keep their dogs to
thank them for their years of service.  The older dogs are often very
good about helping their younger replacements hone their abilities.


D.  Search and Rescue Dogs.

SAR comprises a large variety of abilities, some of which are covered
separately below.  SAR varies by locale: searching for victims in
rubble (avalanches or collapsed buildings) is different from searching
wilderness/forest areas for a missing person.  SAR is often linked
with local law enforcement, as SAR dogs can trail escaped convicts or
suspects from a crime scene.

1.  Where to get started

It is best to affiliate with a reputable SAR organization.  You may
even wish to join the reserves unit with your local law enforcement --
this entitles you to insurance protection, for example.  Be picky
about finding a professional organization to join: there are many
wannabe clubs out there that would really just get in the way of an
actual SAR effort.  There are some national groups and many states
have their own organizations (e.g., California's CARDA -- CAlifornia
Rescue Dog Association, or WOOF -- Wilderness Finders, Inc.).  An
additional benefit is being able to learn from people who've been at
this for a long time: no book or self-training will ever give you the
valuable insights you can gain this way.  These types of organization
will have their own certification and testing processes.  For example,
WOOF requires dogs and handlers to be dual certified -- wilderness AND
disaster SAR.

A professional organization should have law enforcement liasons as
any search, even for a missing person, has the potential for turning
into a hunt for a felon.  Some organizations are put together from law
enforcement reserve officers, sometimes even active duty officers.
Others simply work closely with local law enforcement.  Cooperation
for the protection of everyone is essential.

Any dog can detect scent.  Some are individually better at it than
others.  Some breeds (especially the hounds) have been bred so that as
a class, they contain many more talented individuals.  A dog's
conformation, structure and temperament will all affect its talent at
tracking or trailing.  But the breed doesn't really matter, except for
serious and professional tracking.  You can have fun with tracking on
your own.  All you have to do is train your dog to follow its nose.
Some extremely practical information, whether or not you're serious
about SAR, to get started with can be found in:

Button, Lue.  _Practical Scent Dog Training_.  Alpine Publications,
Inc. 214 19th St. SE, Loveland, CO 80537.  1990.  ISBN: 0-931866-47-2.
  A step-by-step practical training guide for air scent, evidence
  search, disaster search and the AKC tracking test.  Starts with
  young puppies.  Well illustrated and methods extensively tested at
  Los Alamos' Mountain Canine Corps.

2.  Tracking and Trailing

There are two major ways to follow the trail of a person, although
they're really on two ends of a continuum.  _Tracking_ is the process
where the dog follows the person's exact path.  _Trailing_ is the
process where the dog follows the person's scent, which may or may not
approximate the path the person took because of factors affecting the
dispersal of scent such as wind and temperature.  Contrary to popular
opinion, water does not disrupt a tracking or trailing dog, the dog
will simply cast around for your trail on the other side.  In
addition, dogs can locate corpses in the water, so the theory that
water does not hold scent does not, well, hold water.  Dogs can even
trail people in cars, from the scent that blows out of the window or
through the vents of the car.

Some common terminology: A Track Solid dog follows a track, and
usually the newest.  A Track Sure dog will follow the track associated
with the scent he started with, and will not follow a track laid by a
different person as long as the second track was laid at a different
time.  A Track Clean Dog will follow the correct trail even if it
crosses other trails laid at the same time.  For example, for disaster
work (e.g., finding victims in rubble), dogs lead their handlers
towards any human scent from the rubble; this is "tracking solid."  A
Bloodhound, given a scent article, will "track clean," finding that
same individual regardless of whatever crosses the track.

To start trailing a specific individual, the dog needs an
uncontaminated scent article.  Best items are underwear, T-shirts, or
something that the person has directly handled.  The scent article is
just as much evidence as the "smoking gun" is, unfortunately, many
people (including law enforcement folks) are still unaware of how to
use scent as evidence and often handle, and thus contaminate,
potential scent articles.  Dogs can still get around this by doing the
"missing member" search: the dog takes note of which scent on the
article is not immediately present and searches for that person.

Traditionally, people think of SAR dogs hunting through forest or
wilderness for lost hikers or children.  While this is still quite
true, SAR dogs also find escaped prisoners, lost [mentally impaired]
patients, lost children in the city or the suburbs, suspects fleeing a
crime scene.  As a result, urban SAR is rapidly growing.

Bloodhounds are by far the best for performing difficult and long
trails.  They are large (100-120 lbs), capable of covering great
distance, and their facial structure (loose skin) allows them to cup
and catch even the faintest scent.  Their stubborn and patient
temperament allows them to stick with trails that are miles long.
Bloodhounds were originally bred for large prey, and have been used to
track people since about the 16th century.  For smaller game, other
hounds were developed, with shorter legs and smaller size.  These type
of hounds cannot cover trails as old or as long as the Bloodhound.

Labradors and German Shepherds are often used in tracking.  They do
not do as well with older or longer trails, but are more than capable
of following trails within their limitations.  Also because they can
work off leash better than the Bloodhound can, they can work more
rapidly if there is a need for haste.

3.  Disaster search

Some SAR dogs are trained to search through rubble for people.  In
this scenario, the dog is not finding a specific person, as is the
case with tracking and trailing.  The dog is looking for any human
scent.  Avalanches, collapsed buildings, airplane and train crashes
are all examples of sites where these kind of dogs are employed.  Most
often, German Shepherds or Labradors are used for this kind of work:
these dogs work well off leash (which Bloodhounds do not) and are
suitably agile for scrambling around in the debris (which Bloodhounds
are not).

4.  Cadaver search

Dogs can be trained to find cadavers, new or old.  Some dogs are
employed on archeological digs to help locate old graves.  Other dogs
are used by law enforcement to find recently dead people, or to
collect all the bones found in an area.  This is a rapidly expanding
field, with new methods of training currently being developed.

4.  Related testing

Many SAR organizations will put together mock disaster sites and
evaluate dogs sent over the sites.  There are no standards or anything
like that except within a particular organization.

For tracking and trailing, AKC and ABC (American Bloodhound Club) have
a series of titles in tracking (TD, TDX) and trailing (MT, MTX).  ABC
is negotiating with the AKC to add the trailing titles to its standard
set.

5.  References

Bryson, Sandy.  _Search Dog Training_.  Third printing.  Boxwood
Press, 183 Ocean View Blvd., Pacific Grove, CA 93950.  1991 (c 1984).
ISBN: 0-910286-94-9.
  A well organized, comprehensive discussion of search dog training.
  Includes practical tips, discussion of search and rescue and the law
  and many other topics.

Davis, L. Wilson.  _Go Find!  Training Your Dog to Track_.  Ninth
printing, 1984.  Howell Book House, Inc., New York.  c1974.
ISBN: 0-87605-550-1 (hardcover).
  Blurb:  "Major L. Wilson Davis is America's recognized authority on
  Tracking -- named in September 1973 to the Obedience Advisory
  Committee of the AKC as its official consultant on Tracking and
  scent training for dogs.  This official status follows upon decades
  of recognized achievement in these phases of Obedience training.
  Following distinguished service with the K-9 Corps during WWII, he
  has been active in the Governmnent's program of using trained
  tracking dogs for the recovery of detonated missile parts in missile
  experimentation.  Major Davis was an AKC licensed judge for all
  classes of Obedience.  He is presently training director of the
  famous Oriole Dog Training Club of Baltimore.  He organized and
  headed the Baltimor City K-9 Corps, one of the finest in the
  country, and is often asked to lecture and advise police departments
  on the use of tracking dogs in law enforcement.  Major Davis is a
  recipient of the Quaker Oats Distinguished Service Award for his
  dedicated contributions to dog training."

Pearsall, Milo D. and Hugo Verbruggen, MD.  _Scent: Training to Track,
Search, and Rescue_.  Alpine Publications, Inc., Colorado.  1982.
ISBN: 0-931-866-11-1.
  Blurb: "The authors first look at the scientific qualities of scent
  -- what and how dogs smell and how environmental factors affect the
  track.  Then they use this background as a basis for training.
  Topics include the science of scent, kindergarden puppy tracking,
  tracking equipment, tracking tests, training to search, search and
  track, search and find, search and rescue, trail companion, scent
  and the law enforcement agency, first aid on the trail and much more."

Tolhurst, William D. with Lena F. Reed.  _Manhunters!  Hounds of the
Big T_.  Hound Dog Press, 10705 Woodland Avenue, Puyallup, WA 98373.
1984.  ISBN: 0-9617723-0-1 (hardcover).
  Tolhurst is a Search and Rescue volunteer in upstate New York.  This
  book recounts his experiences using bloodhounds in trailing.  Many
  fascinating stories.  Tolhurst includes a section on training a dog
  to locate dead bodies.


E.  Water Rescue Dogs.

[would love more history and references]

There are some dogs trained for water rescue.  Some dogs are trained
to deliver flotation devices to the person, others actually drag the
person out of the water.  The latter is most often done by
Newfoundlands, as they have the swimming ability and size to perform
such feats.

F.  Narcotics and Evidence Dogs.

This is commonly considered a subset of SAR.  Dogs can be trained to
alert (by barking, pointing, or pawing) on controlled substances such
as drugs, agricultural products (e.g., in customs or at borders), and
nearly anything else (for example, gunpowder (to detect guns), bomb
materials, arson materials).  Narcotic dogs are trained to search
through buildings, cars, and luggage for their scent.  They can be
trained to alert on more than one kind of drug, and can do so despite
ingenious efforts on the smuggler's part: dogs have been known to
locate drugs concealed in gasoline, rotting food, skunk oil, and many
other efforts.  They can be trained to discriminate between large and
small amounts: in fact some dogs are trained to whiff passing
vehicles; if it alerts on one, that vehicle can be stopped later and
searched without directly involving the dog and its handler.

Evidence dogs are trained to search for items bearing human scent,
sometimes specific human scent.  They are utilized in crime scenes to
find evidence thrown away by a suspect.  Such evidence can be later
used (if handled properly) by a Bloodhound to link the scent on it to
a suspect: several such cases have been deemed admissible evidence in
court.

Dogs that are trained to alert on contraband items are almost always
owned by law enforcement personnel, as these individuals can most
easily legally obtain small quantities of contraband to train their
dog with.  In other words, average citizens do not train narcotic dogs
because of legal difficulties.  The dog's training record must record
legal acquisition of contraband material used in training: if no such
record exists, or the dog does not have a training record, then its
evidence will not be accepted in court.  (In other words, don't try
this at home.  Similar problems exist for the cadaver dog: dead human
parts must be legally obtained.)

G.  Schutzhund.

My thanks to Michael Sierchio for this section.

1.  What is Schutzhund?

Schutzhund is a dog training and breeding regimen developed originally
in the 20's by the Deutsches Shaeferhund Verein (German Shepherd Dog
Club), or SV, in order to maintain the working ability of the breed.
While the term Schutzhund means literally "protection dog", the
training involves work equally in tracking, obedience and protection.
In order to get a Schutzhund degree a dog must pass all three phases
of the work. Also, a working title (at least a SchH I) is required for
breed survey purposes, and in order to register an approved litter.

Many breeds now participate in addition to GSDs.  While there may be
individual dogs of a particular breed that may be suitable for the
work, the following are most consistently able to perform: GSDs,
Belgian Malinois, Doberman Pinscher, Bouvier des Flandres, Rottweiler,
Tervuren, Boxer, Giant Schnauzer, etc.  Generally, these are larger
working breeds with strong prey and defense drives, and temperaments
suitable for the tasks of the training.  Under current rules fighting
breeds, such as Pit Bulls, Am Staffs, Bull Staffs, etc. are not
eligible to participate.

There are three major degrees awarded - SchH I, SchH II, and SchH III
-- in order of increasing difficulty.  SchH I (IPO I) is the
apprentice test.  A SchH III dog must demonstrate a high level of
performance, ability and courage.

The traits that make for a good Schutzhund candidate mostly are innate
characteristics that must be bred for.  Even among dogs bred out of
Schutzhund bitches and dogs, a minority have the ability to reach even
SchH I, and a small percentage will have the necessary drive,
intelligence and hardness to achieve a Sch III title. In addition to
breeding, early development is important.  The young pup should not be
subjected to strong corrections or experience being dominated by
another dog, and all training and play should end on a positive note,
with the pup "winning."

The IPO (International Pruefungsordnung) rules, under the auspices of
the FCI (Federation Internationale Cynologique), are similar to the
Schutzhund rules and the trials are run in the same manner, with the
exception that no evaluation of the fighting instincts, courage or
hardness of an IPO entrant is performed during the protection phase of
the trial.

(The following information on degrees and requirements is from the
United Schutzhund Clubs of America)

Degree                                            Min Age

B        Begleithunde                              12 months
         (Companion Dog)

FH       Faehrtenhundpruefung                      16 months
         (Advanced Tracking Dog Test)

AD       Ausdauerpruefung                          16 months
         (Endurance Test)

SchH A   Schutzhund Examination A                  18 months
SchH I   Schutzhund Examination I                  18 months
SchH II  Schutzhund Examination II                 19 months
SchH III Schutzhund Examination III                20 months

The maximum score in each of the three phases shall be 100 points.
Therefore, the highest possible score in a trial is 300 points.  A
degree shall be awarded only if a dog achieves at least 70 points in
Tracking and Obedience, and at least 80 points in Protection.

[For the purposes of illustration, I have included the rules for SchH I
trials]

SCHUTZHUND A

The Schutzhund A Examination is composed of phases B and C of the SchH I
Examination.  The conduct of the examination is the same except that the
tracking phase is omitted, and the maximum possible score is 200 points.
This training degree is not accepted under the rules for conformation
shows, breeding requirements or breed surveys.

SCHUTZHUND I

Phase A - Tracking

Tracking a 350-400 pace long trail at least 20 minutes old with two
articles on a 10 meter tracking lead, or tracking without a lead.  The
track has two 90 degree turns.  The handler lays the track as
indicated by the judge, placing the first article in the middle of the
first or second leg without interrupting the pace or changing the
stride.  The second article is deposited at the end of the track.

The handler reports to the judge with the dog, and indicates whether
the articles will be picked up or pointed out.  The dog and handler
proceed to the scent pad at the beginning of the track. Prior to
tracking, and during the entire tracking phase, all force or pressure
is to be avoided.  At the start, the dog must be given sufficient time
to absorb the scent.

The dog must begin quietly and pick up the scent with a deep nose. As
soon as the dog begins to track, the handler must stop and let the
length of the 10 meter leash slip through his/her hands.  The handler
now follows at the distance of 10 meters, whether tracking with a lead
or without.

Immediately upon finding an article, the dog must convincingly stop,
stand, sit, or pick up the article, or return it to the handler.  If
pointing out, the dog must lie, sit or stay.  By lifting the article
high in the air, the handler indicates to the judge that it has been
found.  The tracking leash is loosely held as the dog and handler
continue on the track. The articles are presented to the presiding
judge after completion of the track.

A faulty start, excessive circling on corners, continued praise,
faulty picking up or pointing of the articles, dropping articles,
pronounced quartering, high nose, urinating or defecating on the
track, or hunting mice, etc. will be penalized.

Phase B - Obedience

Heeling on Leash and Impartiality - 15 Points

Starting from the basic heeling position, the dog and handler proceed
for 40 paces without stopping. A turnabout is performed, and after
10-15 paces a running heel followed by a slow heel, each of about 10
paces, are demonstrated. During a normal pace at least one left turn,
one right turn, and one left turnabout must be performed.  A halt must
be performed after the turns and while the handler is moving straight.
A voice command is permitted only when starting the exercise, or when
changing pace. The judge will direct the handler through a group of at
least 4 people, amd the handler is required to stop at least once in
the group. The group is expected to mingle about.

Heeling off Leash - 20 Points

When requested by the judge, the leash will be removed while in the
basic position.  The handler moves through the group with the dog
freely heeling.  After demonstrating ar least one halt, the handler and
dog leave the group and perform the heeling exercises that were
performed on leash.  While the dog and handler are performing the
off-leash exercises, at least 2 gun shots (6 - 9 mm) are to be fired
(not while moving in the group) and the dog must remain indifferent to
the noise. Special emphasis is placed on indifference to the gun.  If
the judge deems the dog to be insecure or should the dog run from the
shot, the judge may excuse the dog from further participation.

Sit Exercise - 10 Points

From the basic heeling position the handler and free heeling dog
proceed in a straight line.  After at least ten paces, the handler
issues the voice command to sit - the dog should quickly come to a sit
position.  The handler shall continue for at least 30 paces without
interrupting pace or direction, then stop and turn around to face the
dog. At the direction of the judge, the handler returns to the right
side of the dog.

Down with Recall - 10 Points

From the basic heeling position the handler and free heeling dog
proceed in a straight line.  After at least ten paces, the handler
issues the voice command to down - the dog should quickly come to a
down position.  The handler shall continue for at least 30 paces
without interrupting pace or direction, then stop and turn around to
face the dog. At the direction of the judge, the handler shall recall
the dog.  The dog should come to the handler with a spirited and swift
motion and sit close in front.  Upon a "heel" command, the dog should
quickly come to a sit position next to the handler.

Retrieving an Article belonging to the Handler on Level Ground - 10
Points

The dog sitting freely next to the handler should, when given the
voice command, quickly move toward the article tossed approximately 10
paces away. The dog must immediately and quickly bring the article
back to the handler, and sit close in front. The dog must hold the
article until, after a brief pause, the handler issues the command to
let go.  After the command to heel, the dog should come quickly to the
heel position.  In place of an article belonging to the handler, a
dumbbell can be used -- however, balls, toys, etc. are not considered
personal articles.

Retrieving an Article belonging to the Handler over a 1 Meter High and
1.5 Meter Wide Brush Hurdle - 15 Points

The handler assumes a position at an acceptable distance in front of
the hurdle while the dog sits freely next to the handler.  The article
is tossed over the hurdle.  Upon voice command, the dog shall clear
the hurdle without touching it, pick up the article, return over the
jump and sit closely in front of the handler. The article must be held
by the dog until the handler removes it with the command to let go.

Go Ahead and Down - 10 Points

When requested by the judge, the handler and freely heeling dog
proceed a few paces in the designated direction.  The command to "go
out" should be executed by simultaneously stopping and lifting the arm
to indicate direction.  The dog must move at a fast pace at least 25
paces.  The dog must lay down quickly upon voice command. At the
request of the judge, the handler proceeds to pick up the dog by
moving to the right side of the dog, commanding the dog to sit, and
then putting on the leash.

Long Down Under Distraction

Prior to the start of the obedience exercises of another dog, the
handler commands the dog into a down position at a spot designated by
the judge.  The handler moves approximately 40 paces away within sight
of the dog. The handler remains quiet with his back to the dog.  The
dog must remain in the down position without additional influences
from the handler until the other dog concludes the first 6 exercises.
The finish will be like the Go Ahead and Down, above.

Phase C - Protection

Search for the Helper - 5 Points

The helper is hidden in a position 40 paces away so that the dog must
make searching passes to the right and left, or vice versa.  The
handler and dog must be out of sight when the helper moves into the
hiding place.  At the request of the judge, the handler releases the
dog and gives the command to search towards the empty hiding place,
then towards the helper. The command "here" and the dog's name may be
used.

Hold and Bark - 10 Points

When the dog reaches the helper it should immediately and continuously
bark.  The dog should not bother the helper by gripping or bumping.
The handler is to remain at a distance of approximately 25 paces. When
the judge indicates, the handler will pick up the dog and hold it
securely so that the helper can leave the hiding place.

Attack - 35 Points

A helper is directed to proceed to another hiding place at least 50
paces away.  Upon directions from the judge, the handler will proceed
with a free heeling dog towards the hiding place.  The handler is now
attacked from the front by the helper, who suddenly comes out of the
hiding place.  No contact is permitted between the handler and helper.
The dog must immediately attack and demonstrate a firm grip.  The dog
will be struck with a flexible, padded stick -- two blows will be
given on the flanks, thighs, or withers.  Encouragement may be given
via vocal command.  When requested by the judge, the helper stops the
aggression.  The dog must independently release, or release his grip
upon receiving the command to "out".  After receiving the command from
the judge, the handler will hold the dog by the collar.

Pursuit and Hold - 50 Points

The helper makes threatening gestures and runs away.  After he has
gone about 50 paces, the handler sends the dog toward the helper and
remains standing still. The judge will instruct the helper to turn
around and run toward the dog when the dog is about 30 paces away.
Using aggressive and threatening motions, the helper will run toward
the dog.  When the dog has taken a firm grip, the helper will press
the dog briefly without applying the stick, then cease resistance.
The dog must release, either independently, or after receiving the
command to "out".  After the dog has let go, the handler will remain
standing without influencing the dog.  Upon a signal from the judge,
the handler will approach the dog and helper at a normal pace.  The
handler will order the helper to step back from the dog, and order the
dog to lay down.  The helper will be searched and disarmed before
transport to the judge.  The dog will be on leash during transport.
The handler will leave the area with the dog on leash.

The fighting drive, including courage and hardness, is to be
scrutinized during the entire protection phase.  This will be rated as
pronounced, sufficient, or insufficient.

Only energetic fighting and a firm grip will allow a full score.  A
dog that does not release after one command to let go, or who is not
under control of the handler, or who fails any exercise of the
protection phase cannot pass the test.  If a dog fails a single
exercise, it will be excused from the remainder of the phase.  No
deductions are made for a dog that alertly circles the helper.

2.  References:

Barwig, Susan.  _Schutzhund_.  Quality Press, Englewood, CO.  1978.


H.  Police Dogs.

This is a very general term.  Technically, any dog working for a
police or sheriff department is a "police dog," this includes
narcotic, evidence, tracking, trailing, and attack dogs.  SAR and
narcotic and evidence search have already been covered.  The popular
notion of the term "police dog" refers to "attack" dogs kept by law
enforcement departments.  Dogs can do more than one job; there is no
reason that a dog couldn't trail/track people, sniff out narcotics,
and locate arson material.  But attack dogs are usually used only for
chasing suspects and bringing them down.  Schutzhund training shows
that attack training does not exclude other abilities, but for
whatever reasons, this is not often done (Schutzhund training itself
is difficult; the Schutzhund section describes the difficulty of
finding suitable candidates for the training).  There are often
liability concerns; an "attack" dog will be viewed unfavorably by most
judges and juries if it attacked someone, even justifiably, while
doing something else.

There are no national or even state-wide standards for these dogs.
Many are Schutzhund trained.  Some are well trained, others are not.
German Shepherd Dogs are commonly used, but any large breed with
energy and drive can be used: Bouvier des Flandres, Dobermann
Pinschers, Rottweilers and others have also been used as police dogs.

The use of police dogs, in an organized fashion, began in the US in
1907 with South Orange, New Jersey, and New York Police Departments.
These were followed by departments in Glen Ridge, NJ (1910), Detroit
(1917), Berkeley, CA (1930), Pennsylvania State Police (1931), Royal
Canadian Mounted Police K-9 Section (1937), and the Connecticut State
Police (1944).  Many other departments have since created programs of
their own to utilize dogs.  This is the reason for the lack of uniform
standards across the country, as each department makes its own.

For a detailed reference, including history, try:

Chapman, Samuel G. _Police Dogs in America_.  Bureau of Government
Research, 1979.

I.  Sled Dogs.

My thanks to Stephen Lee for this section.

1. History

Prior to the formation of sled dog racing as a formal sport, sled dogs
were bred and used by native peoples of the polar regions of the world
in their everyday lives for survival in harsh climates.  Two dogs
commonly employed in sledding are Alaskan Malamutes and Siberian
Huskies.  These two breeds had quite different origins and uses.
Alaskan Malamutes originated with a group of Eskimo people known as
the Mahlemiut.  The dogs of that time were very large freighting dogs,
capable of pulling heavy weight.  The Mahlemiut people inhabited the
region in the upper part of the Anvik River in Alaska, and were spread
out over a large area.  The Mahlemiut people used these dogs for
hauling food back to the villages.  The gold rush in 1896 created a
high demand for these dogs.  On the other hand, Siberian Huskies
originated with the Chuckchi people of northeastern Siberia.  These
people had a Stone Age culture and used their dogs for a variety of
things, like herding reindeer and pulling loads.  These dogs were
smaller and faster than their Mahlemiut counterparts.  These dogs were
exported to Alaska at around the time of the gold rush.  Thus the gold
rush played a very important role in the development of our modern day
sled dog breeds.

Sled dog racing began as a formal sport with the first All-Alaska
Sweepstakes race in 1908.  Prior to this, Alaska's mushers had little
opportunity for recreation and they used their teams primarily for
work and transportation.  Rules for the races were established, and
they provided a good diversion to the difficult living conditions.  In
the 1920's, airplanes were gradually replacing sled dog teams for
transportation, freight hauling, and mail delivery.  In 1925, sled
dogs proved that they were invaluable during the "Great Race of Mercy
to Nome."  In Nome, an outbreak of diphtheria threatened to become a
fatal epidemic.  A 20lb package of antitoxin serum needed to be
relayed from Nenana to Nome.  Twenty drivers and more than 100 dogs
were recruited for the run.  Planes were ruled out due to extreme cold
(40 below and colder) and if the plane crashed, the serum would be
lost.  Serum was transported from Anchorage to Nenana by train.  The
drive was a success, the serum was delivered and lives were saved.
The drive covered some 674 miles in less than five and a half days.
This, along with the simple commemoration of the uses of the Iditarod
trail, is the origin of the Iditarod sled dog race.

2. Types of sled dogs

Naturally, most northern breeds were used as sled dogs.  Alaskan
Malamutes, Siberian Huskies, Eskimo Dogs, Greenlands, Samoyeds,
Norrbottenspets, and Hokkaidokens are all sled dogs.  However, lots of
different breeds of dogs have been and are used to drive sleds and
carts.

People use Irish Setters, Dalmations, Golden Retrievers, etc., to
enjoy mushing sports.  In fact, most modern day speed and endurance
mushers use mixed breeds (often Siberian crossed with Greyhound).  So,
if you do not have a "sled dog," but still want to enjoy the sport, fear
not, for most any type of dog can be used.  Mushing is fun, both to
take part in and simply to watch.

3. Mushing terms

Contrary to common belief, the word "mush" is not used to drive sled
dogs.  Mush comes from the French word "marche" which is from the
verb "marcher" which means to walk.  Undoubtedly, the French used this
during gold rush days.  The word "mush" is felt to be too "soft" a
sound to be used as a command.  Below is a short list of common
commands and terms associated with dog driving sports.

          Hike          : Get the dogs moving
          Gee           : Turn right
          Haw           : Turn left
          Easy          : Slow down
          Musher        : One that drives sled dogs
          Mushing       : The act of driving sled dogs
          Lead dog      : Dog that steers the sled dog team and
                          regulates speed
          Wheel dog     : Dogs closest to the sled
          Sled          : Wooden rig the dogs pull in the snow and
                          on which you stand
          Snowless rigs : Also called training carts.  Take the place
                          of the sled when there is no snow.

There are many other terms common to dog driving sports.  One book
that has a very good glossary in it is _Dog Driver_, by Miki and Julie
Collins.  See the references section for a complete citation.

4. Mushing equipment

The types of mushing equipment alone could cover many pages: only the
main points are covered here.  The references listed at the end of
this section provide additional information.

There are two main types of sleds -- basket sleds and toboggan sleds.
Basket sleds (also called stanchion sleds) are popular among sprint
racers and recreational mushers.  They are fast on glare ice and hard
pack trails, and are also good in high wind conditions.  They are
lightweight, and the basket is set high off the runners, which can
keep gear dry.  Toboggan sleds are more durable and stable than the
basket sleds, and they are capable of carrying bigger loads.  They are
more rigid and generally less maneuverable than basket sleds.  The bed
of the toboggan rides two inches above the snow.  These sleds handle
soft snow better than their basket counterparts.  Both types of sleds
are equipped with a brake, which is a vital item.  The brake is very
simple, consisting of a spring loaded wood plank attached to the sled
bed at one end and a metal hook at the other.  When riding the sled,
standing on the runners, one simply pushes down on the brake, driving
the hook into the snow.  It is an effective method of slowing and
stopping the sled.

So, which sled?  It depends on what you want to do.  Basket sleds are
lighter and more suitable for racing.  Racing trails are groomed and
hard packed for speed.  They can be used for longer trips and camping.
However, to carry more gear and run in softer snow conditions, a
toboggan sled would be better.  For the novice and/or once-in-a-while
musher, the basket sled is the best choice.  They are generally
cheaper and easier to learn on.

In order to have your dog pull the sled, it must have a proper
harness.  There are many, but two main types of harnesses are the
x-back and the freighting, or weight pulling harness.  For speed or
recreational mushing, the x-back harness is the harness of choice.
The harness is extremely important as it properly distributes the
weight of the load across the dog's muscular-skeleto system.  Of all
the components of mushing, the harness is the most important.  The
x-back harness is sometimes referred to as a racing harness, but it is
NOT strictly used for racing.  As long as the load is not too heavy,
the x-back is used for a wide variety of dog driving activities.  The
harness should should be padded around the front and fit the dog very
well.  Unfortunately, a picture is not possible, and without that, it
is a little difficult to visualize.  See the references for additional
details.

The weight pulling harness is used to haul heavier loads.  Therefore,
one would expect to see freighting harnesses used in conjunction with
toboggan sleds.  They are also used in competitive weight pulling.
They are similar to the x-back harness, except that they are
constructed to give the dog different freedom of movement and
different distribution of the load.  The freighting harness has one
very important feature that the x-back harness does not.  At the rear
of the harness, there is a "spacer", usually a wooden rod that is
about as long as the dog is wide.  While pulling heavy loads, the rod
is well away from the back of the dogs rear legs.  For recreational
mushers, this wooden rod can be somewhat irritating for the dog as it
will hit the back of the dogs legs when not loaded.  Consider what you
are going to do with the dog(s) before purchasing or making a harness.

The line that runs from the sled to the dogs is called a _gang line_.
They are simple to construct yourself once you understand their
function and geometry.  The gang line consists of three components.
The first is the _tow line_, which is typically 3/8 inch polyethelene
rope.  It connects to the sled and runs up *between* the dogs which
are hitched side by side on either side of the towline.  To this, the
_tug lines_ are attached.  These lines are typically 1/4 inch poly
rope and are "braided" into the tow line.  The tug lines attach to the
harnesses (which are on the dogs!).  The final component is the _neck
line_.  The neck line is also 1/4 inch poly rope and is braided into
the tow line.  The end of the neck line attaches to the dog's collar.
The dog does NOT pull from this under ANY circumstances.  The function
of the neck line is to keep the dogs close to the tow line, thereby
maximizing their pull strength.  When out on the trail, you always
want to have a spare gang line, as the dogs may break theirs, or a
tangle may become so severe that the line must be cut to free the
dogs!

The next component of mushing equipment is the snow hook.  The snow
hook is essentially an "emergency brake" for the sled.  When you stop
the sled, and must get off to untangle dogs or rest or something, you
can set the snow hook in the snow and it will hold the dogs (and
therefore the sled) in place.  They are remarkably effective.  They
are simple: a large, heavy, metal hook, weighing a couple of pounds
and about 12 inches in length.  These can be purchased from a variety
of places.  It is very important to attach the hook to the rear of the
gangline, not the sled.  A strong team of dogs can very easily tear a
sled to pieces if the sled is between the hook and the dogs.

The last pieces of equipment to mention are the sled bag and dog
booties.  The sled bag can be used to carry an injured dog or gear.
In an ISDRA sanctioned sled dog race, sled bags are a required piece
of equipment.  They can be made or purchased.  Dog booties are used to
protect the dogs feet from injury, particularly on long journeys.
They are typically used when mushing on rough ice, when mushing along
roadways where chemicals from de-icing can be present, or when driving
the dogs on a snowless rig on a hard surface.  Booties can be made or
purchased.

How about the cost?  Well, it varies, of course.  The numbers below
are typical.

              Sled      : $300.00 - 500.00
              Harness   : $15.00 - 18.00
              Ganglines : $10.00
              Sled Bags : $25.00
              Snow Hook : $10.00
              Booties   : $1.00 (per paw)

The references section includes the names, addresses, and phone
numbers of some outfitters that sell this type of equipment.

5. Skijoring equipment

Skijoring really only requires six simple components.  A skier (you!),
a dog (or dogs!), an x-back harness, a tow line, padded belt, and
cross country skis.  You MUST know how to cross country ski VERY well
to do this.  The harness has been discussed previously, there is no
need to discuss the skis, and the tow line is just that -- a line that
connects you to the dog(s).  This leaves the padded belt.  These can
be purchased or made.  The idea is that you put the belt on, attach
the tow line to it, attach the dogs to it, and go!  Some people prefer
to use a handle to hang on to rather than attach the dogs to them.
The handle can then be dropped if the dogs pull you into trouble!
Others feel that it is best to use a belt and execute a controlled fall
in case of trouble rather than risk having the dogs injure themselves
in a tangle when a handle is dropped.

6.  Weight pulling equipment

The name of the game here is truly the harness.  As discussed above,
the weight pulling harness is completely different from the x-back
harness, and THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE!  The weight pulling harness
has side lines that connect to a spreader bar at the hock, instead of
continuing up to the hips.  This is important, because a single dog
weighing 60 lbs may pull 2000 lbs!

7.  Other equipment

Many mushers have a wheeled cart for training in the fall prior to
snow fall.  In areas with insufficient snow, these carts are used in
competition.  These can be purchased or made by a good welder.  Carts
are a lot of fun, but are difficult to come by, they can be difficult
to control, and they go *very* fast with enthusiastic dogs.

Some people use pulks in the snow and carts in the summer to work
their dogs.  Carts are small "wagons" that are used to haul small
loads or children.  Pulks are carts for the snow (they are like small
sleds).  They are used to carry equipment.  Carts and pulks can be
made or bought.

8. Training the musher

Dog driving is not merely riding on the back of the sled issuing
commands to steer the dogs.  It is work!  If you start doing it in
earnest, you will pull muscles, fall off the sled and have to pull
yourself back on the runners with one hand, run yourself ragged
chasing after the team (because you fell off of the sled), run into
trees, and so on.  In addition to these things, a musher must "peddle"
the sled.  This too can be tiring since it is repetitive.  Peddling is
pushing the sled forward with one foot while riding the sled.  This is
helpful to the dogs, particularly when tired.  You may also frequently
get off to run alongside when the dogs are tired.  Therefore, to
successfully drive sled dogs, the musher must train his or her body as
well.  Conditioning of the musher is to a small extent a function of
the type of mushing to be done.  The key is endurance and flexibility
over muscle bulk.  Running, biking, cross country skiing and downhill
skiing are all good ways to build strength.  You must remember that at
all times, you are alpha.  If you are tired, hesitant, and uncertain,
your team will pick this up and become confused and unresponsive.
This can be particularly dangerous on longer journeys into the
wilderness.

It should be clear from this that dogs in a sled dog team must be very
well bonded to the driver.  Not only does it make training much
easier, but well socialized, well bonded dogs make a very good sled
dog team.  The dogs are looking to you as their undisputed leader, and
you and they work together as a *team*.  If you are careful to bond to
each of your dogs as individuals, and socialize them very well with
each other, other dogs, and other humans, your dogs will be willing to
do virtually anything for you.

9.  Training dogs to pull

There are many aspects to training dogs to pull.  Probably the most
fundamental is *start young*.  Get a puppy used to its harness, just
as you would a collar and leash.  Also let the puppy get used to
pulling things.  Start out with a small 2x4 (6 inches long) and let it
drag the 2x4 around behind its harness for a while.  The emphasis is
NOT on weight, just on having fun dragging a VERY LIGHT weight behind
it.  It is important to realize that one can injure a puppy's bones,
structure, and spirit by doing too much!

To train adult dogs, or continue the puppy training as an adult, is
relatively simple.  Some dogs are natural pullers, others are not.
Some dogs take right to the harness the first time, and other dogs,
even ones from reputable breeders, may take extensive training.  You
just never know.

It is vital to get the dog to lean out and keep the line between it
and you taut.  Some dogs have a real problem with this, others do not.
For problem dogs, the cause usually is due to the dog not liking you
to be behind it.  If you do have trouble, there are a variety of
methods you can use.  As long as you make training a fun game, and you
make the dog understand what you want it to do, training will progress
quickly, even for stubborn dogs, like Siberians.  Fortunately, they
LIKE to pull, so their stubbornness is not a problem here.  Sometimes
getting them to STOP pulling is!

Some mushers feel that it is best to train dogs to pull lots of
weight, then speed comes naturally in a race without the weight.
Others feel that speed and endurance training is best.  Still others
feel that a combination works best, similar to the combination
training for the musher.  Training for speed and endurance by mushing
shorter distances (under 10 miles, sometimes even 3 or 4 miles) at top
speed and up hills is beneficial.  Loping along at 3 or 4 miles an
hour for 15 or 20 miles is also beneficial.  Both of these build
strength and endurance.  Pulling heavy weight for short distances is
also quite good, particularly for wheel dogs (the ones hitched closest
to the sled).  For this, try a plastic tub to which you can add
plastic weights (the ones from barbell sets will have the weights
printed on them).

Whichever method you use, remember to take it easy with your dogs and
not push them to hard, and never, NEVER, lose your temper with your
dogs.  Remember that this is supposed to be fun for both you and the
dogs.  George Attla, a famous musher once said, "If the dogs make a
mistake while out on the trail remember that it is not the dogs that
have made the mistake.  It is you."  For additional training
information (with much more detail than is practical to provide here),
see the references.

10. Training lead dogs

To successfully mush, one must have a good lead dog (or dogs).  This
dog will take your commands for regulating speed and direction for the
entire team.  Naturally, if you are driving only one dog, that will be
your lead dog.

Training lead dogs is too complex to really do it justice here.  The
basics are you want the dog to learn to turn right, left, speed up,
and slow down on voice command.  You also want the dog to bypass
interesting detours and distractions.  In addition to the basic
commands already introduced (see section 3), the dog must also be
taught the commands below:

       kissing sound : Speed up (or other appropriate sound)
       on-by         : Go by a fork in the trail, other dogs, or
                       other distractions without detour

All commands are spoken in a firm, calm, not too loud voice.

During training, you must be certain to use varied turns and trails to
be sure that the dog is really executing the commands rather than
following a well worn path.  You must also anticipate the turn and
issue the command at the correct time from the *dog's* perspective.
Finally, some people get confused when issuing the right/left
commands, particularly in the excitement of a race.  Some mushers tape
the commands on the front of their sleds, on the right and left sides.
You may want to do this while beginning on the sled.

To train a dog to execute these commands with regularity is not too
difficult.  To train a dog to do this during the excitement of a race
with lots of distractions is more difficult.  One possible way to
approach training is to start out on foot when the dog is a puppy.
Keep the lessons varied, quick, and fun.  Be certain to do the lessons
in a variety of environments, with and without distractions.  When the
dog is old enough to pull weight (about one year to 18 months, get
advice from your veterinarian), you may wish to graduate to cross
country skiis.  The dog will learn to execute commands in snowy
conditions, and at higher speeds.  Once you have your lead dog well
trained and pulling your sled, you will find that other untrained,
young, dogs can be very easily added to your team as your lead dog
will "correct" the new dog's mistakes, usually faster and better than
you can.

This is one way in which lead dogs can be trained.  Consult the
references and experienced mushers (if you can find any) for
additional information.

11.  Training for weight pulling

Here emphasis is on strength and pulling straight no matter
how difficult.  Most of the mushing books in the references discuss
weight pulling training.

12.  Training for skijoring

Skijoring is you on cross country skis and the dogs pulling you.  YOU
MUST BE A VERY GOOD CROSS COUNTRY SKIER.  This is a must.  Before
attaching dogs, cross country ski all over the place, on a wide
variety of terrain.  Learn to fall in a controlled way.  You will
eventually need to do this when skijoring.  You will need to learn to
turn quickly and ski in control at high speeds.  Skiing downhill in
cross country skis is a good way to simulate skijoring speeds.

The dog(s) must be well trained as well.  Train all of them as lead
dogs.  They need to know and obey all of the commands very well
(especially whoa!).  The references all include information about this
fast growing sport.

13.  Health, diet, and care -- Sled Dog Specifics (briefly)

Sled dogs are athletes.  They are also remarkably healthy.  It is
important to realize that because sled dogs are athletes, they require
special attention in at least two specific areas.

Probably one of the most important aspects for caring for sled dogs is
the foot.  You should inspect your dog's feet regularly.  The skin of
the pad should feel tough, but pliable, be resistant to abrasions and
lacerations, and be free from cracks, dryness, or scarring.  Also
inspect the nails of the foot carefully.  Nails can help the dog grip
ice, but if too long, they can cause serious foot injury.  According
to Miki Collins in _Dog Driver_, if the nails are long enough to force
the toes upward when the dog is standing on a hard, level surface,
clip them.  Nails that are too long can get caught and ripped out on
the trail, or they can cause toes to break.  Both of these injuries
can be quite serious, and they are certainly painful.

The subject of diet should also be touched on here.  Most mushers feed
a high stress, high energy diet during mushing season, and switch to a
"maintenance" diet during the "off" season.  For example, one
experienced musher mixes Science Diet Performance dry with canned
during mushing season.  This is a high fat, high protein food.  Some
mushers even mix food in with lots of water hours before a race to
encourage drinking.  Dogs must be very well hydrated.  During the off
season, the musher in this example feeds Science Diet Maintenance
canned mixed with either Science Diet Maintenance dry or Eukanuba dry.
During the mushing season, the dogs are using all components of the
food that is fed.  During the off season, there is no need for such
high energy food, and in fact, high protein foods can cause kidney
trouble later in life when not fed in moderation.

14.  Final remarks

Hopefully, this brief summary has been helpful to you.  Even if you do
not want to get involved in mushing yourself, try and find mushing
events in your area.  It is wonderful to see the handsome dogs
enjoying doing what they were bred for.

15.  References

15.1.  Recommended books for mushing, weight pulling, and skijoring:

Levorsen, Bella, ed.  _Mush!  A Beginner's Manual of Sled Dog
Training_.  Sierra Nevada Dog Drivers, Inc.  Arner Publications, 1976.
ISBN 0-914124-06-4.

Collins, Miki and Julie.  _Dog Driver.  A Guide for the Serious
Musher_.  Alpine Publications, 1991.  ISBN 0-931866-48-0.

Flanders, Noel K. _The Joy of Running Sled Dogs_. Alpine Publications,
1989.  ISBN 0-931866-39-1.

Fishback, Lee and Mel.  _Novice Sled Dog Training_.  13th printing,
Raymond Thomson Company, 1989.

15.3.  Recommended breed books:

Demidoff, Lorna B. and Michael Jennings.  _The Complete Siberian
Husky_.  Howell Book House, 1978.  ISBN 0-87605-314-2.

Riddle, Maxwell and Beth J. Harris.  _The New Complete Alaskan
Malamute_.  Howell Book House, 1990.  ISBN 0-87605-008-9.

15.4.  Recommended racing and history:

Sherwonit, Bill.  _Iditarod, The Great Race to Nome_.  Alaska
Northwest Books, 1991.  ISBN 0-88240-411-3.

Steger, Will and Jon Bowermaster.  _Crossing Antarctica_.  Alfred A.
Knopf, Inc., 1991.  ISBN 0-394-58714-6.

15.6.  Periodicals about sled dogs and mushing

The Siberian Quarterly
4401 Zephyr Street
Wheat Ridge, CO   80033-3299

The Malamute Quarterly
4401 Zephyr Street
Wheat Ridge, CO  80033-3299

Mushing.
The All Season International Magazine for Dog-Driving Sports
P.O. Box 149
Ester, AK  99725

15.7.  Recommended places to order equipment:

Black Ice, Konari Outfitters, Tun-Dra Outfitters and Ikon Outfitters:
all addresses are in Catalogue section of the Annotated References FAQ.

J.  Gaming Dogs.

1.  Frisbee

There are serious competition trials for dogs playing frisbee.

2.  Flyball

Thanks to Ian J. Hogg.

Flyball is a team sport for dogs.  It is a relay race with 4 dogs on a
team.  The dogs jump over 4 hurdles spaced 10 ft apart and then
step/jump/throw themselves into a spring loaded box that shoots out a
tennis ball.  The dog catches the tennis ball and then runs back over
the 4 hurdles.  When the dog crosses the starting line the next dog
goes.  The first team to have all 4 dogs run without errors wins the
heat.  There are three heats per race.  The winner of each heat
receives 2 points towards their standing in the tournament.  The dogs
earn points towards flyball titles based on the teams time:

  less than 32 secs:       Each dog receives 1 point
  less than 28 secs:       Each dog receives 5 points
  less than 24 secs:       Each dog receives 25 points.

The titles the dogs can earn are
  FD   Flyball Dog          20 (25?) points
  FDX  Flyball Dog Excellant 100 points
  FDCH Flyball Dog Champion  500 points

The really good times run about 19 seconds.  The hurdles' height are
dependent on the height of the dogs in the team -- 5" below the
shoulder height of the shortest dog.  10" is the minimum height and
16" is the maximum height.

Anyone with a dog that loves balls can give it a try.  Check to see if
obedience schools in your area have teams.


----------------
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    Subject: rec.pets.dogs: Dog Behavior, Problems, and Training FAQ

Archive-name: dogs-faq/training
Version: 1.0
Last-modified: 17 May 1992

This is one (of eight) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The eight parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu in the
directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, training, working, AKC-titles, misc1,
and references.  To obtain the files, first try ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp does not
work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
...etc, in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).

Changes and additions marked with |'s.
This is still incomplete in some places, particularly section M.
I want to add some notes on "drop it," "leave it," etc.

IV.  Dog Behavior, Problems and Training.

  A.  Understanding Your Dog.
  B.  Principles Behind Dominance.
  C.  Dominance Problems.
  D.  Housetraining Problems.
  E.  Submissive Urination.
  F.  Other Common Problems.
  G.  Comments on Obedience Training
  H.  Attention.
  I.  Corrections.
  J.  Using Food.
  K.  Training and Corrective Collars.
  L.  Learning to Sit.
  M.  Down, Stay, Off.
  N.  Heeling.
  O.  Learning Recall.
  P.  Beyond Basic Obedience.


A.  Understanding Your Dog.

1. "Why would my dog be happier inside than outside when I am not home?"

You must understand the nature of dogs -- namely, that they live in
social units called "packs."  That means that your dog views you and
your family and any other pets as its pack.  Your home is the "den."
Dogs prefer to be closer to the center of the den -- the place where
the pack's smells are most acute.  While many dogs are very happy to
stay outdoors during the day while the rest of the pack is gone to
work, a great many dogs also develop behavioral problems as a result
of daily "expulsion" from the den.

In addition, a dog with access to a large territory may feel compelled
to "defend" all of it, resulting in other types of problems: frantic
barking at "intruders," and so on.  Restricting the amount of
territory it has to protect may reduce this type of behavior.

2.  "Shouldn't dogs run free in the countryside?"

It is an absolute myth that living in the country confers greater
latitude in the dictum "thou shall keep thy dog constrained to the
immediate environs of the pack."  Country dogs allowed to run free get
shot by hunters, into fights with other dogs over territoriality
issues.  They can kill livestock, fight and tassle and get disease
from wild animals, and be hit by cars on the highway.  They become
increasingly aggressive as they vie for larger and larger perimeter
boundaries to their territory, and they no longer relate to YOU as the
leader of their pack.  Also, don't forget that intact animals will
breed and add to the overpopulation problem.

3.  "Why do dogs engage in undesirable behavior?"

When dogs start undesirable (to humans) behavior, its best to try to
understand the source of this behavior.  Often it stems from the
frustration of being left alone.  Dogs are very social animals.  One
positive solution is to make sure your dog is properly exercised.
Exercise is a wonderful cure to many behavioral problems and dogs just
love it.  Do check with your vet for the proper amount of exercise for
both the age and breed of any dog.  Another solution is obedience
training.  The point is, your dog needs your attention, whether it is
by taking it out on a walk, training it, or both.

When bad behaviors begin in your absence, they can just get worse and
worse every day if not addressed or prevented.  Puppies (up to 18
months or so) get very bored when they are left alone.  Even catching
it in the act may not help, at least at this point.  Often this is a
problem with separation anxiety.  Try to spend as much time with your
pup as you can; this is one of your responsibilities as a dog owner.

4.  "But it is SO FRUSTRATING when my dog does this!!"

Yes, it is.  But screaming and yelling at the dog, or punishing it
well after the fact does not tell your dog what is wrong.  You may in
fact wind up teaching it to fear you, or consider you unreliable.  You
must get your dog to understand you, and *you* have to work on the
communication gap, as you are more intelligent than your dog.

Preventing your dog from unwanted behaviors coupled with *properly
timed* corrections will go much further in eliminating the behavior
from your pet than yelling at it.

In fact, you should not yell at, scream at, or hit your dog, ever.
There are much more effective ways to get your point across.  Try
instead to understand the situation from your dog's point of view and
act accordingly.  The techniques in this chapter approach problems
with this in mind.

5.  "Why does crating work?"

First of all, it prevents the dog from doing many of the behaviors you
don't want it to.  What it does not do, it does not develop a habit of
doing and does not need to be corrected for it.  Second, it means that
when your dog *does* have an opportunity to engage in the unwanted
behavior, *you* are around (because you're home to let it out) to give
a proper and timely correction.

As the behavioral aspects pointed out above, reducing the territory
to protect and keeping it in the den are positive things from the
dog's point of view.

6.  "How do I know if my dog understands me or is ignoring me?"

There are five reasons a dog might not do a command: it's untrained,
it's confused, it's fearful, it's distracted, or it thinks it has a
choice.  Only the last two requires correction.  The first two require
working with your dog do solve the problem and to get it to understand
what you want it to do.  The fearful reaction is probably an
indication that you're doing something wrong in your approach and you
need to try something else.  Persistent fear may need mild correction.
You won't always be able to tell how your dog is reacting, especially
not at first.  You must learn to pay attention to your dog so that you
can accurately read it.  Think of obedience and training as a two-way
street: you're both learning to understand each other.

Dogs first learn to behave in a certain way without really
understanding what they are doing.  By putting the dog in a stressful
situation or tempting the dog to not perform the exercise, you can see
how well it understands the exercise.  When the dog initially fails
under these circumstances, it is only appropriate to help them through
the exercise.  Corrections are done if the dog appears to think it has
a choice; or if the dog continues to be afraid after helping for a
long time.  In this case, the dog needs to learn to work through his
fear.  Corrections are appropriate, because dogs often think their
owners approve of the fear -- in particular, soothing them can
communicate your approval of their fear.  Keep corrections for fear
mild, but definitely corrective.

7.  "I trained my dog to do all these things and now he won't do them!"

This is typical.  Think of adolescent rebellion in teenagers.  First
your dog learned and obeyed your commands because you were
unquestionably the leader.  Then, while your dog understood what the
command was, it was older and decided to test you.  This is where
corrections become crucial.  If you pass this struggle (and it varies
with the individual dog), you will generally get past this hump,
although each individual command may go through a mini-sequence like
this.

B.  Principles Behind Dominance.

For obedience training to proceed smoothly, your dog must consider you
its alpha leader.  This means that it considers YOU the boss.  There
are a number of exercises you can to to establish and maintain
dominance over your dog.  Individual dogs vary in submissiveness.  If
your dog is very submissive, you don't need to worry about
establishing dominance (in fact, you may need to tone down your own
dominating behavior to help bolster its confidence).  Most dogs are
happy to be submissive: just be sure to show approval at the
occasional signs of submission, and assert dominance if it tries to
test you (most dogs will, in adolescence).  A few dogs may be very
dominant and continually challenge you for dominance, in which case
you will actively need to assert and establish your position.

1.  Always show approval at signs of submission

Praise your dog when it drops its eyes first.  Praise it when it licks
you under the chin.  Give it an enthusiastic tummy rub when it rolls
over on its back.

2.  Be consistent and fair in your corrections

You must demonstrate to your dog that it can trust your orders.  Do
not ever correct the dog after the fact.  Such corrections appear to
be arbitrary and unfair to the dog, because it has no associative
memory the way people do.

If your dog is still a puppy, socializing it is a good way to gain its
trust.

If you decide that some action requires correction, *always* give a
correction when you see that action.  For example, if you decide that
your dog is not allowed on the sofa, then *always* correct it when you
see it on the sofa.

Consistency can be a big challenge with a family: every family member
must agree on the basic ground rules with the dog; when and for what
it should be corrected, what commands to use and so on.  Families must
cooperate extensively to avoid confusing the dog.  It is best if only
one person actively trains the dog; thereafter if the commands are
given the same way, everyone in the family can use them.

3.  Correct the dog's challenges

Especially during adolescence, you dog may test and/or challenge your
position.  Do not neglect to correct this behavior.  Examples of
challenges can be: disobeying you, growling, staring.

4.  Learn how to display alpha behavior

You may not need to use all of these, but you should be familiar with
them.  They are listed in "escalating" order.  Do not use any of these
if you are angry or upset.  The point is never to hurt the dog, but to
show it who is alpha.  They work best if you are calm, firm, and
matter of fact.

Eye contact: alphas "stare down" subordinates.  If your dog does not
back down in a stare contest, start a verbal correction.  As soon as
it backs down, praise it.

Taps under the chin: alpha dogs nip subordinates under the chin as
corrections.  You can use this by tapping (NEVER hitting) your dog
under the chin with one or two fingers.

Grabbing under the ears: alpha dogs will chomp under subordinate dogs'
ears and shake.  You can mimic this by holding the skin under your
dog's ears firmly and shaking.  Again, do not use excessive force.  Do
this just enough to get the point across.

Alpha roll: Pin the dog to ground on its side with feet away from you.
Hold scruff/collar with one hand to pin head down (gently but firmly).
Other hand on hip/groin area (groin area contact will tend to cause
the dog to submit to you.)  Hold dog firmly, look right into its eyes,
and wait until it quiets down and looks away from you for a time lying
limp.  If the dog struggles, attempts to bite, or whines, hold firmly,
shake scruff if necessary, and give a verbal correction until the dog
calms down.  If the dog is calm and submissive, give mild verbal (not
physical) praise.  Once the dog submits for, say, 15 seconds or so,
let it up with more mild verbal praise, but don't excite it.  If this
is to be a severe correction, ignore the dog as much as possible for
several minutes afterwards.  This alpha "roll" (in which you play the
"role" of the alpha dog in the pack) is intended to teach the dog that
you are the leader and that behavior contrary to your wishes will not
be tolerated.

5.  Keep the alpha position

Challenge your dog occasionally, even after puppyhood.  Take its food
or a toy away, push it off its sleeping place, etc.

Do mild alpha rolls periodically.  If the dog is truly submitting to
you as leader it is not at all traumatic, kind of like a scheduled,
low affection-quotient hug, and if the dog is testing you frequently
then you need to do it anyway, so either way it works.

6.  Learn to recognize challenges

Some behaviors are readily recognized as dominant, e.g., growling, but
there are other, more subtle challenges.  For example, nudging.
Discourage persistent nudging.  Don't let your dog be possessive of
its food or toys.  Make it give anything up to you when you ask it to.


C.  Dominance Problems.

1.  Ignoring your spouse or significant other

A common problem is that your dog pays attention to you, but none
whatsoever to your SO.  This problem can even be compounded by your
SO's fear of the dog, or reluctance to take control of it.  This
problem does need to be corrected, however, if your SO is ever left
alone with your dog.

Begin by having your SO give commands to your dog.  Correct it when it
does not obey.  Have several sessions where your SO issues the
commands and you provide the verbal corrections and praise.

Then have your SO challenge the dog.  Taking its food away, pushing it
off its sleeping place and the like are good ways.  Basically, you
need to back your SO up in every action.

If your SO is actually afraid of the dog, you will have to get past
this fear before you can have your SO established as dominant over
your dog.  Go out walking, playing in the park, playing fetch,
whatever fun things it takes and whatever time it takes to get your SO
comfortable with the dog.  Have your SO take the leash on occasion.
The key here will be going slow and easy.

If the person the dog does not obey is a young child, do not expect
the dog to consider the child an alpha.  As the child grows older,
then you can start making the point that the child is now an alpha in
much the same way.  When this is appropriate depends on the childs
emotional maturity and responsibility (because if the child is to be
alpha, she or he must responsibly lead, as described earlier).

2.  Growling

You have to distinguish between play growling and serious growling.
If you're in the middle of a tug-o-war game, your dog may growl, and
it's not a problem provided you can still win.  If your dog growls or
snaps at you at some other time, say when you get too close to its
food, you must correct it.


D.  Housetraining Problems.

1.  Sudden changes in established habits

If your dog has been fine with its housetraining up till now, there
may be several reasons for it to break with its training.

  * If there have been no major changes in its life, your dog may very
    well have a medical problem, such as kidney trouble.
  * It may be trying to defend its territory if you have a new animal
    in the household.
  * It may be generally upset or anxious if you've just moved and
    trying to assert ownership of the new territory.

2.  Eating feces

Some dogs will eat other animal's feces.

If it is cat feces in an indoor litter box, you can try the following:

  * If you have a utility closet or some other closet where you can
    keep the litter box, you can fix the door so that it only opens
    enough for a cat to get through (assuming big dogs) by using
    something like a string/ribbon/rope over the door handle to a
    small hook on the adjacent wall or door jamb.  If you can make a
    more permanent change, you could put a kitty door into the closet
    and be able to keep the door shut.
  * Get the kind of litter box with a big top and a "kitty door" or
    even just an opening on it.  Place the litter box with the opening
    about 4"-6" from a wall (backwards from the way you would normally
    think of placing it).  This leaves just enough room for the cat to
    get into the box but not (usually) enough room for the dog to get
    to the box.  The kind of box with the swinging kitty door helps
    make it a little harder for the dog to get into it.

A surprising number of dogs eat their own feces.  This is a fairly
disgusting habit, but difficult to cure.  One way to prevent this from
occurring is to clean up feces as soon as possible, but this can be
difficult for dogs left in yards or kennels all day.

The Monks suggest feeding your dog a dry food that is at least 23%
meat protein, and about 25% raw meat. In addition, either an egg, or a
tablespoon of vegetable oil every few days. They also think that
eating feces may involve a dietary deficiency.  Adding Accent
(monosodium glutamate) to your dogs food can give the feces a bad
appeal for the dog. Also putting Tabasco and Vinegar on the feces
themselves may work.

3.  Urination

If it is a *change* in your dog's behavior, it might be a bladder
infection, so check that with your vet first.  If your dog is an older
spayed bitch, you might need to put her on periodic estrogen doses to
control the leaking.

If your dog is urinating in different places around the house, you can
try the "vinegar trick".  Pour some vinegar on the spot in front of
the dog.  What you're telling the dog with this is "I'm alpha.  YOU
may not pee here."  Then clean it all up first with an enzymatic odor
remover and then a good carpet shampoo (see the Assorted Topics FAQ).


E.  Submissive Urination

The genetically shy dog is a super submissive type and unlike many
dogs are quite sensitive to any forms of "dominant" behavior in
humans.  Even ordinarily submissive dogs can become extremely
submissive if its owner misunderstands and unintentionally forces it
to increase its submissiveness.

Tone down your aggressive behavior -- with a submissive dog there is
no real need to consciously dominate it.  Examples of dominating
behavior:

  * Direct eye contact
  * Standing over the dog
  * Walking towards the dog while looking at it

Tips:

  * Wait when you come home.  Say "hi" to it and be verbally friendly,
    but don't touch or pet it for about 5-15 minutes.  Try not to make
    the moment more exciting than it already is.
  * When you greet it, get down on its level.  Rather than standing
    and bending at the waist, bend at the knees (or sit) so that your
    face is about level with his and you are not looking down on him.
    This is a less dominant position, and less likely to trigger a
    submissive posture.
  * Don't pet it on the head.  Rather, tell it to sit, maybe "shake
    hands", then scratch it under the chin and on the chest.  This is
    less dominating than the pat on the head (because you avoid
    standing over it).
  * When you correct this type of dog, do so with your voice only
    (avoid direct eye contact.  If it starts to urinate, then say
    immediately, "OK, let's go out!" in a happy tone of voice -- and
    take it out.  Or, take a toy out (something it likes to do) and
    play with it.  What you are doing here is telling your dog, "OK, I
    see your submissiveness.  That's good."
  * When guests come over, ask them to ignore your dog and not look at
    it even if it comes up and sniffs them.  After a bit, when people
    are sitting down then have them gently put their hands out and
    talk to your dog, without looking at it. Usually after about 15
    minutes or so everything is fine.

In general, show signs of low-key approval *immediately* when the dog
becomes submissive.  Then distract it with something else.  When you
ignore submissiveness or get mad at it, you're in effect telling the
dog "You're not submissive enough!" so the poor thing intensifies its
efforts -- and submissive urination is about as submissive as it gets.

Be really positive with your dog, this type lacks self-confidence and
will look to you quite often to make sure everything is OK.


F.  Other Common Problems.

In general there are several items you can use in training your dog to
leave things alone, if it is persistent about some things.  While
these are no substitute for training, they can help the process of
training.

  * Bitter apple, bitter orange
  * cayenne pepper, especially cooked into oil, but the oil stains easily

Put a little on your hand or a towel, and let your dog sniff it.  If
your backs off and looks disgusted, then it should work.  Let your dog
see you put the substance on whatever its been chewing, and then sit
back and watch your dog.  If it goes up to where the substance is
applied, wait until you know it can smell the stuff, and correct it
right when the stuff hits its nose.  This timing is crucial, and is
what helps train your dog away from what it is doing.  Do be sensible
and make it physically impossible for your dog to do it when you are
not home to aid in the training process.

1.  Chewing

Dogs can cause an amazing amount of destruction by chewing.  Usually
the problem is with younger, bored puppies.  You need to train them
with a combination of crating and chew toys as described in New
Owners, New Dogs.  The substances mentioned above may help in training
away the behavior.

2.  Biting.

It is natural for young puppies to bite and chew on people; however
don't let them do this.

If your dog is a puppy, yelp pitifully when it chomps on you, and
replace your hand with a chew toy; praise heartily when the chew toy
is used instead.

With older puppies and dogs, say "NO BITE" sternly and withdraw your
hand.

2.1.  Fear-biting

This is a separate problem, caused by a fearful and submissive dog
that feels cornered.  It indicates an extremely poor temperament and
possible abuse.  Such dogs should never be bred.

To deal with a fear-biter (evidenced by a dog that bites/threatens to
bite but has its ears laid *back* along its head rather than facing
forward), first you have to deal with the insecurity and temperament
of the dog.  This kind of dog has no self-confidence at all, hence its
ready alarm at normally innocuous situations.

Think of the submissive dog outlined above.  You need to build up its
confidence: pay close attention to understand exactly what sets it off
(some are afraid of men, men with beards, people holding something in
their hand, small children, etc) and for now, remove that from its
environment.  Do some training or other work with it to build up its
confidence (the training in this case becomes a vehicle for praising
the dog).  Then work slowly on its fear.  You should really enlist
professional help to deal with a fear biter unless you are experienced
with dogs.  This kind of dog takes lots of patience and careful
reading and may never become trustworthy.  If you cannot resolve its
problems, consider having it destroyed; don't pass it along to someone
else to become a problem for that person.

3.  Barking.

Each and every time your dog barks, go out and see why the dog is
barking.  If your dog is barking for a good reason (such as a stranger
in the yard), you should praise your dog and then tell it to be quiet.
If the dog is barking because there is a squirrel up the tree, or
something similar, tell the dog to be quiet and immediately go back
into the house.  You will have to repeat this every time the dog
barks.  Pretty soon, in a week or so depending on the dog, the dog
will only bark for a good reason.  The dog may still bark at the
squirrel, but not continually.  Instead, one or two good barks to
scare the squirrel, and then it considers its duty done.  At the same
time, you have not dampened your dogs ability to bark when there is
something wrong.

You might also enlist the help of your neighbors.  Neighbors are often
happy to help you with this problem!  Have them squirt water at
excessive barking, or rattle cans of pennies/rocks, etc.

There is some evidence that barking is an inherited trait: if the
parents bark a lot, chances are their puppies will, too.

Often, one method that helps alleviate barking is to give your dog
specific permission to bark.  Teach it to "speak" -- let it "speak"
when appropriate (say, when you're playing in the park).  Then "no
speak" follows from that.  However, there is often a problem when the
dog is alone.  The following methods outline some other possibilities
to address this problem.

1.  Collars

There are collars available that are meant to help train your dog not
to bark.  Dogs will react differently, depending on how well they
learn, train, and handle.  The collars by themselves are not the
solution to your dog's barking: it must understand what the collar
does, and you will have to *train* it using the collar.

2.  Debarking

Surgery on the dog's vocal cords can be done to reduce the barking to
a whispery sound.  This is a controversial practice, banned in Britain
and other places.  Some vets will refuse to do the surgery.

The dogs do not stop barking.  They do not seem to notice the
difference, or at any rate continue "barking" as if they still made
the noise.

There are different ways to perform the surgery, and it is possible
for the vocal cords to grow back and the dog to regain its bark.  If
the vocal cords are cut, chances are the cords will heal themselves.
If they are cauterized, the operation will last longer.  Whether it is
over a period of weeks or months, it seems that the dog eventually
regains use of its vocal cords.

3.  Muzzles

There is a "No-Bark Muzzle" that is designed to prevent dogs from
barking.  Many dogs very rapidly learn not to bark when the muzzle is
put on them each time they start barking.  It is not binding or
confining and does not put the dog through surgery.

4.  Digging.

Dogs may dig out of boredom or to make a cooling/heating pit.

Try refilling the holes with junk.  With junk, dogs can quickly lose
interest and pretty much stop digging.  Fill the hole with whatever is
at hand - dead leaves, sticks, pine needles, rocks or even dog feces.
Fill the top 2 inches or so with dirt.  The dog finds the stuff, gets
discouraged and often quits digging.  They seem to get the idea
they'll never know where they'll find junk, and it's not worth the
effort to dig only to find junk so they quit.

The Koehler dog method advocates filling holes with water and sticking
dog's head under the water for a few seconds or so.  This may not work
with some breeds (e.g., Labradors), and may not appeal to you as a
method to try.  Alternatively, you can try burying a water balloon in
one of the holes which will pop in its face when it starts digging
(surprise).

Try to remember that digging is a natural tendency for dogs.  So, if
there is any place where your dog may be allowed to dig, you should
encourage it (and only in that place).  Designate an area where the
dog can dig.  Many people build a sand box for their dog.  Place the
box in an area that is cool in summer and warm in winter.  To teach
the dog to dig only in the box, place a toy or treat in the box.
Encourage the dog to dig up the toy or treat.  Praise the dog.  Repeat
untill the dog willingly jumps in and digs.  Watch the dog.  When it
starts to dig in any other place, quickly go out and take your dog to
its box.  Show it (by digging yourself), that it should dig in its
box.  To deter boredom, place several toys/treats in the box before
you leave for work.  The dog will spend its time digging in the
correct place rather than digging up your roses.

Extreme cases: line the yard with chicken wire and put a layer of sod
on that.  Use paving bricks or blocks around the edge to prevent the
dog from injuring itself on the edge of the chicken wire.

5.  Garbage.

You can get "Mr. Yuk" labels and put them in the trash to keep them
out of it or spray Bitter Apple into it.  But you have to remember to
do this regularly.  If you can, put the trash out of reach of the dog,
eg, under the sink.  You may need to get the kinds of trash cans that
have closing lids.  Don't start easy and work your way up as the dog
figures each one out: you are just training your dog how to open
garbage cans.  Get a good, well secured one at the start.

Put a mousetrap in the bottom of an empty can, cover it with
newspaper, then put something that the dog really likes in the can and
leave the room.

You should train your dog away from this habit.  Crate it, to keep it
out of the garbage when you are not home, and correct it when it gets
into it when you are at home.  This works best if you start in
puppyhood.

6.  Jumping.

Since most dogs are shorter than you, its natural tendency is to jump
up to see you.  It is also an expression of exuberance and happiness.
However, you may be wearing your Sunday Best.  The dog's paws may be
muddy.  The puppy may grow too large.  Some people are afraid of dogs.
Train your dog not to jump on people.  If you don't mind your dog
jumping on you, then train it to jump on you only when it's "OK".

In general, correct it immediately when it jumps on you, praise it
when all four paws land back on ground.  A helpful reinforcement is to
give them a command and praise lavishly when they do it, e.g., "No!
Brownie, sit!  Good girl, what a good girl!"

Try to anticipate the jumping: look for their hindquarters beginning
to crouch down, and correct them when you see them *about* to jump.
With medium-sized dogs, you can discourage jumping with a well-timed
knee in the chest (never kick).  This does not work as well on small
dogs and very large dogs.  With small dogs, step back so they miss
you; you can also splay your hand in front of you so their face bumps
into it (don't hit them, let them bump into you).  Correct, then
praise when on ground.  With larger dogs, the kind that don't really
*jump*, but *place* their paws on your shoulders, grab some skin below
their ears (be firm but not rough) and pull them down, saying "No!"
Again, praise it when it is back on ground.

Gradually expand this to include friends and visitors.  Start first
with people who understand what you want to do and will apply the
physical correction in conjunction with your "No!"  As the dog
improves, expand with other people.  In the interim, a reinforcing
exercise is to put your dog on a leash, and stand on one end of the
leash or otherwise secure it so your dog can stand but not jump.  When
it tries to greet someone by jumping up, praise it *when it lands* and
don't correct it for attempting to jump.

For those of you who don't mind being jumped, you can gain control
over it by teaching your dog that it can jump on you -- when you OK
it.  At random times (i.e., not *every* time you correct it), after
your correction and praise for getting back down, wait thirty seconds
or so, and then happily say "OK, jump" (or something similar, as long
as you're consistent) and praise your dog when it jumps up then.  At
other times, when it is *not* trying to jump on you, encourage it to
do so on your permission, using the same phrase.  You must make it
clear that it shouldn't jump on you unless you give it permission, so
you must still correct unpermitted jumping.

7.  Whining

In many cases, the dog is trying to manipulate you when it whines.
First be sure that the dog isn't telling you it has to eliminate.  If
you know it doesn't have to go, correct it.  If it persists, then you
can try squirting lemon juice in its mouth to discourage whining.

8.  Car chasing

This is symptomatic of a larger problem: why is your dog free to run
after cars in the first place?  If the dog is being allowed to roam
that should be stopped.

Have a few friends drive by (slowly) in a strange car.  When the dog
gets in range, open the window and dump a bucket of ice cold water on
the animal's head/back.  Repeat as needed (with a different car) for
reinforcement.

9.  Tug of War

The Monks (and former Monk, Job Michael Evans) seem to believe that
playing tug is a form of "teaching" the dog to use its teeth, and
therefore a precursor to the dog's learning to use its teeth as a
weapon.  In their view, you should never play tug with a dog.  There
are other authorities that recommend never playing tug of war with
your dog.

However, dealing with the aggression may be more constructive than
never teaching your dog to use its teeth.  Besides, studies on canine
aggression show that even extremely docile dogs can be provoked to
show aggression.  Houpt and Wolski in their book _Domestic Animal
Behavior for Veterinarians and Animal Scientists_ note: "Growling is
an aggressive call in dogs, and is commonly known.  It is interesting
evolutionarily that even the most placid dog can be induced to growl
if one threatens to take a bone away from it.  A scarcity of food in
general can increase aggression ..., but bones seem to have particular
value even for the satiated dog."

This can hinge on whether you (as the owner) can distinguish between
challenges and playing.  If the dog is playing when doing TOW, there's
no problem.  If it *is* challenging you doing this, you need to 1)
recognize the challenge (versus just playing) 2) win and 3) stop the
TOW and correct its challenge to your authority.  If you can't make
the distinction, then don't play tug-of-war with it.

Couple any tug-o-war games with the command "Give" or something
similar so that the dog learns to immediately let go ON COMMAND.  If
it doesn't, that's a challenge, and you need to deal with it.  Teach
your dog what "give" when you start playing this game with it.  When
you know that your dog understands the command, then periodically
reinforce it by having your dog "give" at random times.  This becomes
a form of keeping your alpha position as mentioned earlier in this
article.


G.  Comments on Obedience Training.

1.  Different training methods

There are a number of different training methods available.  None of
these methods are perfect and none are guaranteed to work on your dog
(regardless of what it says on the cover).  Each dog is different and
the interaction with its owner is unique.  Some methods work better
than others for *you* and *your dog*.  It will depend on your personal
preference (dogs are good at telling when you are hesitant or unhappy
with a particular technique) and your dog's temperament and ability.

People frequently disagree over which methods are "good" and even
which are "best."  This kind of argument is fairly pointless, as the
effectiveness of each training method is subjective.  Find one that
works for *you* and don't worry about criticisms.  On the other hand,
suggestions to help overcome specific training problems may be what
you need and you shouldn't reject it out of hand because it's not in
the method you chose.

A good expert shouldn't reject any other methods out of hand; the
Monks in their books point out that readers should consult other books
as well.  Being an expert doesn't mean being able to only use or do
one method.  The more methods you look at and try, the better data
base you have to draw from.

There are many methods for training dogs out there.

Baer, Ted.  _Communicating with Your Dog_.  Barron's, New York. 1989.
ISBN 0-8120-4203-4 (oversized paperback).
  Heavily illustrated with color photos.  A sensible approach to
  laying a good foundation for extensive obedience training (even if
  you don't take the dog any further than what's outlined in here).
  Simple instructions for teaching a 20-word language, with emphasis
  on understanding and building on previous work.

Bauman, Diane L.  _Beyond Basic Dog Training_.  New, updated edition.
Howell Book House (Maxwell Maxmillan International), New York.  1991.
ISBN: 0-87605-410-6.
  Emphasis is on training a "thinking" dog rather than a
  pattern-trained dog.  Extensive manual on obedience training.
  Communication and understanding are discussed.  A well known and
  often recommended book.

Benjamin, Carol Lea.  _Mother Knows Best: The Natural Way To Train
Your Dog_.  Howell Book House, New York. 1985.  ISBN 0-87605-666-4.
$15.95 hardcover.
  "No matter how the pup transgresses, no matter how angry the bitch
  becomes, she never denies him his nourishment.  He never goes to bed
  without his supper.  Nor does she offer tidbits of food, treats
  beneath the table, extra portions of dessert to reward good
  behavior. Eating is eating and education is education."

  She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she
  does not recommend food training a young puppy.  She does recommend
  crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room
  with the puppy.  She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad
  dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out,
  cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. She talks about
  canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with
  your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him
  copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy.

  Most training methods rely on the foundational relationship between
  an owner and his dog, and this book provides some ideas on
  establishing that relationship while the puppy is still young.

Brahms, Ann and Paul. _Puppy Ed._.  Ballantine Books.  1981.
ISBN:0-345-33512-0 (paperback).
  Describes how to start teaching your puppy commands.  This is a
  thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and
  cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it.  They stress
  that by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later,
  more formal training goes much easier.

Koehler, William.  _The Koehler Method of Dog Training_. Howell Books.

Milani, Myrna M., DVM. _The Weekend Dog_.  Signet (Penguin Books USA,
Inc.) (1985). ISBN: 0-451-15731-1 (paperback).
  This book outlines practical solutions for working people with dogs.
  It has excellent suggestions for understanding dog behavior,
  particularly destructive or unwanted behavior.  Gives all kinds of
  practical solutions to the problems of adequate exercise, adequate
  training, housebreaking, and so forth.

Strickland, Winifred G. _Expert Obedience Training for Dogs_.  Third
revised edition.  Howell Book House (Macmillan Publishing Company),
New York.  1987.  ISBN: 0-02-615000-X (hardcover).
  Strickland is a well known dog trainer.  Covers all aspects of
  training and competition including the formal training for AKC
  obedience trials (novice, open, utility, tracking).  Includes some
  general care (health and feeding) tips.  Author has also written
  _Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs_.

Tucker, Michael. _Dog Training Step by Step_.
  Tucker is an ex GDB instructor and his books are easy to read and
  follow. His others are _Dog Training Made Easy_, _Solving Your Dog
  Problems_.

2.  What is best for your dog?

This really depends on the temperament and intelligence of your dog,
and your own ability.  There is no one method that works for all dogs
since breed and temperment plays a large part.

3.  Consistency, Timing, and Patience

Good results in obedience training require large doses of the above.
You must be consistent: use the same word for a particular command
every time (e.g., don't use "Come" sometimes and "Come here" other
times).  You must develop a fine sense of timing when introducing new
commands and later correcting behavior on learned commands.  Patience
is needed: losing your temper is counterproductive.  Get the whole
family to agree on the commands, but have only one person train the
dog to minimize confusion for the dog.

Establish a daily training period, preferably just before dinner.  It
can be as short as twenty minutes, or longer.  Establishing a routine
helps.

Don't expect overnight success.  It can take up to two years of
consistent work, depending on the dog, for a properly trained dog.
(This is where the patience comes in!)

4.  Praise

You must praise often and unambiguously.  A smile won't do it.  Give
abundant verbal praise, scratch your dog on the head, etc.

Try making the command word part of a praise phrase.  In this case,
whenever your dog is in the desired heel position, you could say
something like "Good heel!" in a praising tone of voice.  Note that
you only give the command *once* but that the command word is repeated
in the praise phrase for reinforcement.  That seems to satisfy the
objective of the proponents of repeating the command (i.e. letting the
dog hear the command often) without actually repeating it as a
command.  Further, because it is being said when the dog is doing it
right rather than during a correction the dog doesn't create any
negative association with the command as the latter is likely to
cause.

5.  When should I start?

If you have a puppy -- don't wait!  Enroll in a kindergarten puppy
class once its up on its shots.  Don't wait until the pup is 6 months
old to start anything.

Training before "six months of age" is fine if you see the puppy
having fun with these lessons.  Just remember to keep the lessons
short, don't loose patience when your puppy suddenly forgets
everything it ever knew, and give it plenty of time just to be a
puppy.  In the long term, the time you spend with your puppy
exploring, playing together and meeting new people is probably more
important important than your short "training" sessions, but both
activities are very helpful.

Remember:

  * Make it fun *for the pup*.
  * Expect setbacks.  Just because the pup understood what you meant
    yesterday, doesn't mean he'll remember it today.  This means
    *lots* of repetition.  Teach the basic commands: sit, stay, and
    come for now.

6.  Obedience classes

You may find it well worth your while, especially if you are new to
training dogs, to attend obedience classes.  Most places have local
training schools.  Be sure to check up on these places.  Call the
Better Business Bureau and your local SPCA for any specific complaints
registered with them.  Especially check carefully places where you
ship your dog out to be trained: many of these places are suspect,
because YOU must also be trained to handle your dog.  Beware of
advertising that claim LIFETIME warranties on the training, GUARANTEED
solutions, etc.  It is best for you and your dog to go through
obedience training together, so that you both learn from each other.


H.  Attention

An important aspect of obedience training is getting your dog's
attention.  Your dog will not perform as readily if it isn't paying
attention to you.  There are a number of things you can do to get its
attention, and you should be sure to praise it for paying attention.

The Monks of New Skete stress this a lot in their book (with the
addition that in turn, you've got to pay attention to what your dog is
communicating to you during training).  If there's one piece of
definitive advice about dog training this must be it.

1.  Umbilical cords

Put your dog on a medium-to-short leash and tie it to your belt.  Now,
go about the house on your ordinary business.  Do not pay attention to
the dog.  It will quickly learn to pay attention to you to determine
when you are going to get up and walk around, or where you are going.
This is an especially effective exercise with puppies and also lays a
good foundation for learning to heel later.  Start with short periods
of time, say 15 minutes, and work up as your puppy gets older and more
familiar with this exercise.

2.  Watching

If you look up and catch your dog watching you (this is different from
the staring contests mentioned above because the dog is not "staring"
at you when it is watching you move around), praise it.

3.  Food in your mouth, spitting it at your dog

An excellent exercise for teaching attention.  It gets the dog to
concentrate directly on your face, not your hands or pocket.  Do this
as a separate exercise, until your dog understands that it must watch
your face.  Also, DON'T let them pick up the food from the floor or
ground.  If you do, they will learn that they don't have to catch the
treat.  They can just wait and pick it up.  And don't let them come
back later to clean up.

Do not, however, use food in general when obedience training.  See
Using Food below.

4.  Talking softly

Talk softly to your dog.  It will have to pay more attention to you.
This is especially effective when younger, and is a good habit to get
into.


I.  Corrections.

You should never correct when you yourself are upset, angry or
downright mad, especially at your dog.  Good correction depends on
timing, a keen awareness of what the dog is thinking, and quick
switching between correction and praise, all of which are difficult
when you are upset.  Stop the exercise until you regain your
equilibrium.  You will have much difficulty training your dog if you
continually get mad while doing it.  In fact, if you always or often
get mad when training your dog, someone else should train it.  You
will get absolutely nowhere yelling at your dog.

1.  Young puppies

The dictum "don't train before 6 months of age" doesn't make any sense
unless you're talking about the *correction* involved in formal
obedience training.  If you think about it, you train your dog all the
time whether you realize it or not.  Dogs are great at picking up your
body language and tone of voice.  Even if you're not trying to train
them, they're "training" themselves using the clues we give them (and
many "problems" are classic cases of the dogs misunderstanding their
owner's signals).

If possible with a young puppy it is best to use the "correction" of
distraction.  When you deny the puppy something, try to replace it
with a positive activity rather than just being negative and oppressive
all the time.  Otherwise, limit your corrections to a verbal "no."

2.  Older dogs

There comes a time in training any dog that it must do what you ask
just because you asked the dog to do it.  You have been helping your
dog with this particular task for a while and you see the look in its
eye that says, "Yes, I know what you want, but I don't want to do that
right now."  This is very different than the look that says, "Huh???"
You do have to know the dog you are training and be able to tell the
difference between these looks.  That is just part of being a trainer,
and no one can really teach you this skill, but you do have to learn
it.

Always praise the dog immediately when it listens to your corrections.
Again, this gives the "jekyll and hyde" feel to dealing with your dog.
But it is very important to immediately praise your dog for listening
to you.  This helps build confidence and keeps the dogs from having
that "hang-dog" look when performing.

3.  Proofing

Proofing is a method where you make sure your dog understands a
command, *after* you have taught the dog the command.  It isn't fair
to proof a dog on a command when it is still learning what it means.

For example, you teach your dog to stay.  After making it stay in a
relatively distraction-free environment, you step up the pressure.
You throw balls up in the air and catch them, squeak toys, have
someone stand near your dog and talk softly to it.  If your dog gets
up, gently put it back.  If after doing this for a while, the dog
still gets up, then you start putting him back less gently, i.e.
taking your dog roughly by the collar and putting it back, escalating
to picking your dog up by the collar so that its front legs come off
the ground and VERY slowly putting it back in its place, escalating to
picking the dog up by its skin so that its front legs come off the
ground and VERY slowly putting it back.  Some dogs get the idea more
quickly than others; stop your correction when it stays down.

When your dog passes this step, increase the pressure by throwing
balls all around him, bouncing them on the ground, etc.  Also, someone
else should try to offer him food, make strange noises such as
clapping , barking like a dog, meowing like a cat, using toys or
things that make strange noises.

When your dog passes this step, increase the pressure by putting it on
a stay and having someone shout in a loud voice "ROVER, COME!" (do not
use your dog's name), "OK", "DOWN" (if doing a sit stay).  If at home,
put him on a stay and go and ring the doorbell.  It should take
several months (6-8) to work through all of these distractions and
care must be taken to not blow the dog's mind by putting him in a
situation that he is not ready for or by never letting the dog "win"
(i.e., successfully perform an exercise).

Always let the dog "win" on the last exercise in the session.  That
is, end the sessions on positive notes, with much praise.  This keeps
your dog interested in the work.


J.  Using Food.

According to the last chapter of Diane Bauman's book _Beyond Basic Dog
Training_ there is more to dog training and to trainer-dog
relationships than just the dog performing for food and toys.  The dog
should have a relationship with you and work to please you and work
for your praise.  That should be the important thing in your training,
the relationship.

Remember, the goal in obedience is consistency.  If you have a
hard-charging dog when you train with treats and toys, but have a
slow, depressed dog when you take the treats away, getting any kind of
consistent performance out of the dog will be VERY difficult.  Sure,
with a slow dog you may loose a few points for lack of "Utmost
willingness" but if the dog does every sit correctly, every front
correctly and works confidently, you will still do well in the show
ring.

Further, there are many cases of dogs trained using these techniques
that are "ring-wise."  They know they will not be corrected nor will
they be rewarded "properly" for their performance, so why should they
work?


K.  Training and Corrective Collars.

There are several kinds of collars.  There are the plain flat buckled
ones for everyday use available in a wide variety of colors, sizes and
fastners (from buckles to quick-release).

For training purposes, there are choke collars (also called training
collars), pinch collars and prong collars.  Used properly, there is
nothing wrong with any of these collars, although they often look
rather alarming.  The point is that these collars are for control, not
for pain infliction.  Yanking savagely on these collars is
counterproductive; firm corrections get the point across without
injury.  Try this experiment: wrap each of the collars around your arm
in turn and have someone experienced with corrections give a
correction to your arm.

The Monks of New Skete have a very sensible discussion about choke or
training collars.  In _The Art of Raising a Puppy_, they emphasize:

   "A combination of related elements must all work together [to make
  leash corrections properly]:

      -a properly fitted training collar that is put on correctly
      -a leash that is held so that there is always some slack
       between you and your pup
      -a three step correction consisting of a "No" with a leash pop,
       repetition of the command, and immediate praise upon compliance.

  ...for most breeds we recommend a soft braided nylon training
  collar that is snug going over the pup's head and which rests
  comfortably high on its neck.  Because nylon collars are lightweight
  and flexible, they do not tend to slide down to the bottom of the pup's
  neck as many steel collars do, so you can make easier, more effective
  corrections."

To prevent your dog from injury from corrective collars, do not leave
them on when you are not around.  Its usual collar should be a plain
flat bucked collar; save the choke and prong collars for actual
training and when you are around.


L.  Learning to Sit.

Command, "Sit!".  Pull straight up on your leash (do not jerk),
simultaneously push (do not hit) down on the dog's rump.  After the
dog knows the exercise, a tap on the rump is appropriate if the dog
refuses to sit.

Another way is to have the dog focus on your hand.  Say "sit," move
your hand over its head so that it must sit to keep it focused.
Praise it when it is sitting.


M.  Down, Stay, Off.

One caveat is to be sure that you are consistent with "down" and
"off."  Do not use them interchangeably, you will only confuse your
dog.  "Down" should be the classic "lie down on the floor" command,
"off" needs to be "get all your paws on the ground (and off me or off
the chair) NOW!"


N.  Heeling

To make the process of learning to heel easier, start when your dog is
a puppy.  Don't expect it to heel, but discourage from the beginning
any forging (lunging) or lagging on the leash.  Keep the puppy focused
on you when on leash.  This may mean constantly talking to your pup to
keep its attention.  Pretty soon, you'll have a pup that stays pretty
close to you on leash and doesn't pull in any direction.  The umbilical
cord approach suggested for attention can be a good way to start and
maintain this.  Don't worry about "perfect heeling" for several months
yet; it is too much to ask of a puppy right away.

When you and your dog are ready to learn heeling, there are several
approaches to take.

  * Try binding, where you have only a few inches of slack on your
    leash.  Hold the lead like a baseball bat handle, with your hands
    almost on his collar.  "Plaster" you arms against your body.  When
    you start off (with your left leg) tell him heel and hold him
    right there at your side.  If he pulls ahead, add pressure in the
    lead backwards and say "get back".  Once he stops pulling tell him
    "good boy". Stop and do about four straight lines first (no turns
    yet). Just counter any way he pulls with either "get back",
    "get-up" "get-in" or "get out".  When he is in the right spot,
    tell him he's good.  Just do a few short heels first and increase
    length. As he learns where heel is, he should stop pulling then
    you can let more leash out and do the same thing.  If he starts
    pulling again, go right back down to just a few inches.

  * Put your dog on a 6 foot leash with either a choke collar (not
    prong) or flat collar.  Hold the loop of the leash in your right
    hand and keep your hand against your waist.  Loop the slack over
    the thumb of that hand.  Walk around the back yard and when your
    dog walks past you and is not paying attention, turn 180 degrees,
    drop the slack from the leash and RUN!  Your Dog will get turned
    around and will have to follow.  As soon as the leash is slack
    STOP moving.  Say "good <name>," pick up the slack and walk around
    the yard again.  Whenever your dog goes ahead of you and it can't
    see you, drop slack, turn and RUN again.  Don't jerk the leash
    like a correction.  You want a constant pull and if you keep your
    hand against your waist a jerk on the leash won't happen.

  * Practice your foot work.  Make sure you are clear with your
    about-turns, left-turns and right turns.  Bauman illustrates the
    way to turn with photographs in her book.  Being clear with your
    turns helps clue your dog into when you are going to turn.

  * Along with foot work is timing - count out loud "1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2"
    and keep each pace the same length.  When going slow it's "1 and 2
    and 1 and 2" same length paces but at 1/2 time.  Fast is "121212"
    again but twice as fast and with the same length paces.

  * Simple direction changes help as well: do an "about-face" turn
    whenever the heel starts disintegrating.  That way, your dog has
    to stay closer to you to watch where you're going.


O.  Learning Recall.

First of all, one golden rule of recall:

*******************************************
NEVER PUNISH YOUR DOG WHEN IT COMES TO YOU!
*******************************************

It will not want to come to you if it associates that with punishment.
*Always* praise a dog for coming to you.  Remember its associative
powers are limited, and it will only understand that it was punished
for coming to you, regardless of what it just did before that.

1.  Starting young

Understand that teaching a 1 year old dog the recall is not the ideal
situation.  Your dog should be taught the recall by 4 months or so,
and when the dog is younger, it is much easier.  By the time the dog
is a year old, and starting to exert its dominance, the recall should
be a well-established habit and a few relatively minor corrections
should re-establish that habit in case there are minor lapses.

2.  On leash

Make a fun game of it, get your dog to understand what that command
is.  With a puppy, call its name and "COME".  Get down and open your
arms wide as your pup comes in to "funnel" it toward you.  Make a big
fuss over it.

Sit your dog down, on a lead, and make it stay.  Walk to the end of
the lead and say "<name>, COME" and give it just a little pop and run
AWAY from your dog.  As your dog gets to you, make it sit in front of
you.  PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE!!  Work on this way until your dog starts
coming before you can give the little pop.  Then get a long lead (15
feet or so) and do the same thing.  Then progress to letting it drag
the 15 foot lead around.  Call your dog as you are working in the
yard, or doing other things.  Always praise.

Make your dog sit every time it comes to you.  This avoids the later
common problem of the dog running past you when you call it.

3.  Off leash

Don't start off leash until you know that your dog understands recall
on a leash.  The proofing techniques outlined below are only for
correcting dogs (NOT puppies) *that understand* but *choose not to
obey*.  This is very different from the case of trying to get the dog
to understand what you want it to do in the first place, and applying
these kinds of corrections to a dog that does not know what you want
will probably ruin it for obedience training.

3.1.  Starting off leash

Take off the leash, sit the dog, and tell it to stay.  Walk away about
6 feet and call your dog.  If it does not come, calmly and slowly walk
up to it, take its collar in your hands, and then back up to where you
were when you called your dog, pulling it gently along with you.  When
you get to the starting point, tell it what a good dog it is.  Keep
doing the exercise.  If it still refuses to do it, lift its legs off
the ground while going to the starting point.  You will escalate the
unpleasantness of not coming without injury.  Each time you return to
the starting point, praise your dog.

3.2.  Friend nearby distraction

Have a friend offer to play with your dog when you call it.  If it
doesn't come (because playing is so much more fun than doing a
recall), go over to your dog (don't run over to it, or yell at it
while doing so) and pull it back to the starting point.  Always back
up to your starting point, to emphasize to your dog that it should be
in front of you and to let you look at it during the correction
(staring is alpha behavior).  For each failure, you need to escalate
the dragging back (again, without injury or anger, if you find
yourself getting angry and frustrated, stop the exercise until you
calm down): hold the side of the face, both sides, the ear, the lips,
the skin on top of the head (in escalating order).

This dog knows beyond any shadow of a doubt at this point what you
want it to do, but when the offer of a friend with a toy or with food
is more important than obeying you command, the correction must be
sufficiently severe.  Then, it will ignore the offer of food or a toy,
and he will come to you.  When it does, without being dragged, praise
the dog enthusiastically, as lavishly as you can.

With some dogs, the exercise is not over yet, but you need to repeat
the exercise to make certain the dog has it.  With others, you get one
good response, and you quit.  Again it all depends on the dog.

3.3. Increased area

When the dog is reliable in your enclosed training area, then to to a
larger enclosed area and make sure the dog understands when the
distances are greater.  When you are up to several hundred yards,
you've pretty much got it made. Add as many distractions as you can.
If your dog likes to play with other dogs, use dogs as a distraction
and make your dog interrupt a play session to do a recall.  If your
dog ignores you, correct the dog.

Only call your dog once.  If the dog disobeys, don't call again,
just correct the dog.


P.  Beyond Basic Obedience.

It is, of course, beyond the scope of this article to discuss any more
advanced obedience exercises in any kind of detail.  However, there
are many resources if you are interested in further obedience
training.

1.  Classes

There are a number of classes, public and private, offered for more
extensive obedience training.  Especially if you get to know an
experienced handler/trainer well, you can learn a lot from that
person.

2.  Books

There are a several books available that devote a good deal of
discussion to training dogs, above and beyond what most dog books do.
These are:

Bauman, Diane L.  _Beyond Basic Dog Training_.  New, updated edition.
Howell Book House (Maxwell Maxmillan International), New York.  1991.
ISBN: 0-87605-410-6.
  Emphasis is on training a "thinking" dog rather than a
  pattern-trained dog.  Extensive manual on obedience training.
  Communication and understanding are discussed.  A well known and
  often recommended book.

Strickland, Winifred G. _Expert Obedience Training for Dogs_.  Third
revised edition.  Howell Book House (Macmillan Publishing Company),
New York.  1987.  ISBN: 0-02-615000-X (hardcover).
  Strickland is a well known dog trainer.  Covers all aspects of
  training and competition including the formal training for AKC
  obedience trials (novice, open, utility, tracking).  Includes some
  general care (health and feeding) tips.  Author has also written
  _Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs_.

3.  Magazines

4.  Mailing list

There ia an electronic mailing list devoted to dog obedience issues.
This is not for the novice, but for the person starting on advanced
obedience training, as well as those experienced with these
techniques.  It is a good forum for discussing particular problems
that may come up in the course of training your dog.  The list's
volume is moderate, with occasional peaks and valleys, depending on
how "hot" the current topic is.  For more information, send email to
the list maintainer at obed-request@transfer.stratus.com.

----------------
This file is not copyrighted.  It is in the public domain and may
*not* be copyrighted by anyone.  Please feel free to forward copies of
this to anyone you like.  I only ask that you keep the document
intact, including the addresses below so that any recipient knows
where to query about possible updates.  Include a self addressed,
stamped envelope on postal queries.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@ics.uci.edu  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716

Archive-name: dogs-faq/AKC-titles
Version: 1.0
Last-modified: 17 May 1992

This is one (of eight) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The eight parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu in the
directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, training, working, AKC-titles, misc1,
and references.  To obtain the files, first try ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp does not
work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
...etc, in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).

Changes and additions indicated with |'s.
1) I would like information on how a FCH is obtained
2) Why doesn't HCH count toward DCH/TCH (or does it?)
3) What are the amateur titles?  I have a reference to amateur field champion,
   for example.
4) I'm sure there are many other AKC titles...

VI.  American Kennel Club Titles

A.  Showing.
B.  Conformation.
C.  Field.
D.  Obedience.
E.  Herding.
F.  Championships.
G.  Other AKC Titles.
H.  Breed Clubs.
I.  Other Organizations.



A.  Showing.

When people think of "showing," they are usually thinking of
conformation showing.  However, "showing" actually comprises showing
your dog under any of three categories: conformation (meeting physical
standards), field (meeting working standards), or obedience (meeting
obedience standards).  All AKC-recognized breeds are eligible to show
under conformation and obedience.  Field trials are reserved for those
breeds bred for such work, and are tailored to the type of work bred
for: e.g., hunting, retrieving, pointing, and tracking.  There are
herding trials (on a variety of stock) for herding breeds.

To start showing requires an investment of time, money, and contacts.
But it is a richly rewarding area, and there are hundreds of thousands
of people throughout the world who enjoy competing with their dogs
under Kennel Club auspices.  This article details AKC titles, although
many others exist, and may eventually be detailed in their own
FAQ.

For showing in the AKC, the only pre-requirement is that the dog be
registered with the AKC (either litter registration or individual
registration), and be at least 6 months old the day of the trial.
Shots should be current for your own dog's health.  If the showing is
in conformation, the dog must also be sexually intact.

1.  Naming and registration

A dog's registered name must meet the following criteria
(from "AKC Policies And Guidelines for Registration Matters")

  * Name length is limited to 25 characters, not including spaces,
    apostrophes and hyphens.
  * Letters in the name are restricted to the standard English
    alphabet; apostrophes, hyphens, and spaces are the only
    punctuation that appear in a dog's name.  The certificate
    will be printed in all upper case.
  * Lifetime kennel names and registered name prefixes cannot
    without the consent of the owner of the name.
  * No arabic numbers, no Roman numerals at the end of the name.
  * A limit of 37 dogs in one breed may have the same name.
  * AKC reserves the right to append Roman numerals to the end of a
    name for identification purposes.
  * Spelled out cardinal and ordinal numbers may be used (e.g.,
    First, One, Two, Third, etc).
  * The name may not contain "Champion," "Champ," "Sieger," or
    any other show term/AKC title, spelled or abbreviated.
  * Obscenities or derogatory words may not be used.
  * "Kennel," "dog," "male," "sire," "stud," "bitch," "dam," and
    "female" may not appear in the name.
  * The name may not consist of the breed name alone.
  * Names of living or recently dead persons may not be used.
  * An imported dog must be registered under the same name that
    it was registered in its country of birth.

All names are subject to AKC approval.  Names may not be changed
(even if AKC mixes up the name -- there are dogs out there with
typos in their names that they cannot correct).


B.  Conformation

My thanks to Marla Belzowski for this section.

You don't have to use a handler but unless you have a reputation in
the breed it is hard to get points.  Handlers are a good way to get
started, or if you co-own a dog with the breeder, they may handle your
dog for you.  If you handle your own dogs, then like any "sport," as
an amateur, you need to be trained, prepared, and ready to compete
with the pros.  Take the time to learn the ropes, how to present your
dogs, and how to groom.  Ideally, you should find a mentor to help you
learn what you need to know.

If you use a handler, you should always go with the handler however,
just to make sure they are treating your dog right.  Also, a lot of
rule breaking occurs in the conformation ring.  Mostly foreign
materials (hair-spray, mousse, dyes) in the dogs' coats.  This is not
allowed by AKC rules, but many handlers and owners do it.

A Champion must obtain 15 points.  Two majors (a show of 3, 4, or 5
points) must be obtained under two different judges.  The remaining
points can come from 1 or 2 (or more!) point shows under the same or
different judges.  The only dogs to get points at the show are the
Winners Dog and Winners Bitch.  So even if your dog wins a class, you
don't necessarily get points.  It's only the top two dogs within a
breed in competition that get points.  You don't get anything for
second place, but a ribbon, some recognition as an upcoming hopeful,
and some experience.

Sound hard?  It is!

But the next new show and the next new judge may pick the second place
dog over the first place dog under the same conditions that the other
dog won under.  Different judges have different preferences in
conformation, It's usually better to try and show under a judge that
likes what your dog has to offer in strong points.  Other judges may
see something else in other dogs that they prefer over what your dog
has.  A year later or the next show, that same judge may like your dog
better.  It depends on how the dog is "showing" each day.  Dogs have
good and bad days like people do.

A short chart:

                     Best of Breed
                           |
                   Best of Opposite Sex
                           |
                     Best of Winners
                      /           \
              Winner's dog    Winner's bitch   (points towards CH)
               /                           \
   (first in each class advances to Winner's competition)
           Open class                  Open class
           American Bred               American Bred
           Bred by Exhibitor           Bred by Exhibitor
           Novice                      Novice
           Puppy dogs (9 - 12mo.)      Puppy bitches (9 - 12mo.)
           Puppy dogs (6 - 9 mo.)      Puppy bitches (6 - 9mo.)

1.  Standards

"How do you develop an eye for the "perfect-dog" in your breed?"

Books are actually a good way, especially with lots of color photos.
Going to specialty shows is another a good way (specialties usually
have 50+ dogs of your breed there or enough for a major).  Talking to
breeders and looking at what they point out on dogs is yet another
way.  Mostly, you just "have an eye" or you don't.

If you don't, find a good breeder to help you at first.  Make some
friends or pick a breeder you get along with and become "a little lost
puppy" and follow them.  Don't talk much, listen a lot more than you
talk, and be respectful of them.  They are really more likely to want
to help you if you do flatter them just a little, but be honest about
what you do and don't like.  You can always learn something, and you
never stop learning!

2.  Estimated costs

A CH on your dog will easily cost you about $5000.  Obedience titles
will run up a bill of about $500 a title (that's mostly hotels, entry
fees, food, training, handler expense....)  Specials can run $10,000
easily.  It's the fun you have with your dogs doing all these things
that is the real reward.

3.  Finding out where shows are

If you subscribe to the _AKC Gazette_, you also get a monthly Events
Calendar that lists dates, places, superintendants, judges, etc. for
all the AKC events (including Regional and National Specialties).
This also lists Obedience Trials, Herding Trials, Hunting Trials, and
Lure Coursing Events.  Each issue covers the next three months for the
US.  This magazine is available by subscription only.  Subscription
Information - (212) 696-8226.

_Dog World Magazine_ also lists both AKC and SKC events.  Subscription
Information - P.O. Box 6500, Chicago, IL 60680.


C.  Field.

1. Summary of AKC Hunting Tests for Pointing Breeds (1 June 1992).

My thanks to Charlie Sorsby for the information in this section.

(from the AKC pamphlet)
"The purpose of the AKC Hunting Tests is comparison of bird dogs
against a standard, not competition against each other.  A dog must be
AKC registered in order to receive any AKC Hunting Test title.  In the
following, "Hunting Test" means an AKC licensed or member club hunting
test.  In order to be awarded the Junior Hunter title, a dog must have
received Qualifying scores in four (4) Junior Hunting Tests. To be
recorded as a Senior Hunter, a dog must either qualify in five (5)
Senior Hunting Tests or must have earned a Junior Hunter title and
qualify in four (4) Senior Hunting Tests.  To be recorded as a Master
Hunter, a dog must either qualify in six (6) Master Hunting Tests or
must have earned a Junior Hunter title and qualify in five (5) Master
Hunting Tests.  Dogs that have received a Qualifying score in a
Hunting Test at any level are ineligible to enter any Hunting Test at
a lower level."

1.1. Junior Hunting Test

Must demonstrate a keen desire to hunt, show ability to find and point
birds, be trainable.  Cannot be gun-shy.  May be restrained to prevent
interference with another dog.

1.2. Senior Hunting Test

Must do the same things of a junior hunting dog, but with definite
improvement.  They must also hold their point until the bird has been
shot or they are released.  They must retrieve a shot bird but need
not deliver to hand.  They must initially honor another dog's point.

1.3. Master Hunting Test

Must do the same things as Senior hunter, but show more experience.
In addition must also show intensity and staunchness of the point,
without breaking.  Must deliver to hand.  Absolute honoring throughout
the entire flush, shot and retrieve.

2.  AKC Hunting Tests (for retrievers)

2.1. JH: Junior hunter.
  * 2 single marks on water.
  * 2 single marks on land.

  (ie. Dog sees 1 bird thrown. Dog waits until handler tells dog
  to go and pick it up. Dog brings it back to the handler and
  delivers the bird to hand. Repeat 3 times.)

Distances should never be more than 100 yards.

2.2. SH: Senior hunter.
  * 1 double mark on land, 1 double mark on water  (dog watches
    2 birds thrown at the same time (actually one after the other)
    then retrieves them both).
  * 1 walk-up (the handler & dog are walking when a bird comes out).
  * 1 honor (the dog has to watch another dog pick up a bird).
  * 1 land blind, 1 water blind. (the dog never sees the bird, has to
    rely on the handler for directions to the bird).
  * 1 diversion (a bird is thrown while the dog is on the way back
    with another bird).

2.3. MH: Master hunter.
  * Multiple marks on land, multiple marks on water.
  * 1 walk-up
  * At least 1 mark where the dog goes from land, to water, to land
    (called a combination)
  * 1 land blind
  * 1 water blind
  * 1 double blind (usually run with one of the above blinds)
  * 1 honor
  * 1 walk-up
  * 1 diversion

Usually, the a master test is done over fairly tough conditions
(ie.  gut sucking mud, waist high grass, etc.)

3.  Tracking Tests

[ paraphrased from "Tracking Regulations", American Kennel Club,
  effective July 1, 1990. ]

TD: Tracking Dog.

The purpose of the Tracking Dog test is to show that the dog can
follow a track laid by a person on moderate terrain and find an
article dropped by that person.

A TD test track is 440 to 500 yards long, and 30 minutes to two hours
old. It has three to five turns, two of which must be "open", that is,
there should be no fence or boundary to guide the dog or handler. It
may not cross roads, streams, or have changes of cover that would be
suitable for a TDX obstacle. There are two flags at the start -- a
start flag, and a second flag 30 yards out that indicates direction.
There is a single article (glove or wallet) at the end of the track.

Before entering an AKC Tracking Dog test, the dog and handler must be
certified by an AKC tracking judge on a track that meets test
requirements. The certification holds for one year, or four tests.

TDX: Tracking Dog Excellent.

The purpose of the TDX test is to "show that the dog unquestionably
that the dog has the ability to discriminate scent and possesses the
stamina, perserverance, and courage to do so under a wide variety
of conditions. ... It [the track] can lead anywhere a person might go."

A TDX test track is 800 to 1000 yards long, and three to five hours
old. It has five to seven turns, and the first turn is open. The start
consists of one flag (you and your dog get to figure out which way it
goes).  There are at least two obstacles (roads, streams, fences,
changes in terrain, changes in vegetation, etc.), and there are two
pairs of cross tracks that are approximately 1 1/2 hours fresher than
the primary track.  There are also four articles, all of which must be
found -- one at the start, two along the way, and one at the end.


D.  Obedience.

You can get an ILP--Indefinite Listing Privilege number for a purebred
but non-registered dog to do AKC obedience work.

Also, if your dog isn't purebred, you can get titles through mix-breed
clubs like Mutt's of America or Mix-breeds of America (there are
others).  These clubs hold their own obedience trials (usually
modeled after the AKC obedience trials).

Novice: There is Novice A and Novice B; the former for people who have
not put a Companion Dog (CD) on a dog before, the latter for people
who have.  To get a CD, a dog must qualify in three different Novice
shows under three different judges; qualification is at least 170 out
of 200 points.

Open: Open A and Open B are for dogs that have obtained their CD's.
Open A is for dogs that do not have a CDX, and handlers that have not
earned an OTCH on a dog. Otherwise, they're in Open B.  Open B is an
OTCH competition class; dogs with CDX's, UD's, or OTCH's may compete.
Similar to Novice, three qualifying scores under three different
judges gets the Companion Dog Excellent (CDX).

Utility: Utility A and B are for dogs that have obtained their CDX's.
Utility A is for dogs that have not obtained a UD, and handlers that
have not earned an OTCH on a dog. Otherwise, they're in Utility B.
Utility B is the other OTCH competition class; dogs with UD's or
OTCH's appear there.  Similar to Novice, three qualifying scores under
three different judges gets the Utility Dog title (UD).

OTCH: Obedience Trial Champion. A competitive title earned after the UD.
Championship points are awarded to those dogs earning a First or
Second place ribbon in the Open B or Utility/Utility B class according
to the schedule established by the AKC.  For the OTCH, the dog must
have 100 points, have won First place in Utility/Utility B with at
least three other dogs in competition, have won First in Open B with
at least six dogs in competition, another First place in Open
B/Utility/Utility B under the same conditions.  Each of the First
places must be won from different judges.

1.  Novice exercises

  * Heeling on leash; this involves starts and stops, left and right
    turns.  The dog is supposed to stay with you at all times (head or
    shoulder next to your leg).  Figure 8 on leash; there are two
    stops, dog has to stay with you with no forging (going ahead) or
    lagging (falling behind).  40 points.

  * Off-leash Stand for examination: your dog has to stand still
    without moving while the judge examines the head, neck and back,
    approximately.  You are standing at least 6 ft away.  30 points.

  * Repeat of first heeling exercise (not figure 8 part) but without
    leash.  40 points.

  * Recall and finish: Dog stands about 30 ft. away.  You call dog and
    it comes briskly to you and sits.  On command it then goes around
    into a heel pattern sit.  30 points.

  * Group exercise.  About 10-12 dogs together go in and line up on
    one end.  Handlers sit their dogs and go to the opposite side.
    This is the long sit, lasting for 1 minute.  Then handlers down
    their dogs and do the same for 3 minutes.  Long sit is 30 points,
    long down is 30 points.

2.  Open exercises

  * Heel Free and Figure Eight. Like Novice, except no lead.  40
    points.

  * Drop on Recall. Like Novice recall, except you signal or
    command your dog to down when the judge tells you to.
    The dog must stay in the down until you tell it to come
    again.  30 points.

  * Retrieve on Flat. You tell the dog to stay, and throw your
    dumbbell at least 20 feet away. You then send your dog; it
    must go directly to the dumbbell, bring it back, and sit
    in front of you to deliver it. You take the dumbbell and
    then do a finish.  20 points.

  * Retrieve over High Jump. Like the Retrieve on Flat, except
    the dog has to jump the high jump on the way out and on
    the way back.  30 points.

  * Broad Jump. You put your dog in a stay at least eight feet
    behind the jump. You then walk to the side of the jump,
    face the jump, and send your dog over it. While it's in the
    air, you turn 90 degrees so your dog can come to a sit in
    front of you. Then you do a finish.  20 points.

  * Group exercise.  Same as Novice, except handlers are out of
    sight for the stays, and the sit and down stay are three
    minutes and five minutes long, respectively.  30 points each.

3.  Utility exercises

  * Signal Exercise. You do an off-lead heeling pattern, with signals
    only (no voice). In addition, on the judges command, you signal
    your dog to stand and stay, and then from across the ring you
    signal your dog to down, sit, come, and then finish.  40 points.

  * Scent Discrimination.  You have two sets of five identical
    artices, one set of leather and one of metal. You out pick one of
    each; the rest are set out in a group, at random, about six inches
    from each other.  You and your dog turn your backs on the pile,
    and you scent one of the articles and give it to the judge, who
    puts it out with the rest. You turn and send your dog to the pile,
    who has to pick out the one you scented and retrieve it as in the
    Retrieve on Flat. You then repeat the exercise with the other
    article.  30 points.

  * Directed Retrieve. You have three (mostly) white cotton work
    gloves.  You stand with your back turned to a side of the ring
    that is clear of equipment, with your dog in heel position. The
    gloves are placed one in each corner and one in the center along
    that side of the ring.  The gloves are numbered one, two, three
    from left to right as you face them. The judge tells you which
    glove to get, and you and your dog pivot in place to (hopefully)
    face that glove. You then give a verbal command and signal to your
    dog to retrieve the glove, as in Retrieve on Flat.  30 points.

  * Moving Stand and Examination. You heel your dog about ten feet,
    and then command the dog to stand-stay without stopping. You
    continue about ten feet and then turn to face your dog. The judge
    examines the dog with his hands as in breed judging (note this is
    more thorough than Novice) except he does not examine the dog's
    teeth or testicles. You then call your dog directly to heel
    position.  30 points.

  * Directed jumping. There are two jumps midway across the ring,
    about 20 feet apart. One is a high jump, as in Open, and one is a
    bar jump.  You are about 20 feet away from the jumps, on the
    center line of the ring. You send your dog down the center line of
    the ring (between the jumps). When the dog is about 20 feet past
    the jumps, you tell it to sit. Then you command and/or signal the
    dog to take one of the jumps (the judge tells you which).  The dog
    must jump the jump, come to you, and sit in front. (While it is in
    midair you turn towards it.) Then you do a finish.  You then
    repeat the exercise with the other jump.  40 points.

4.  Other obedience trials

There are brace classes, for a pair of dogs, that perform exercises
out of novice and open.  There are also veteran classes, for dogs at
least eight years old with an obedience title.  A versatility class,
that takes two exercises each from the novice, open, and utility
trials, also exists.  Finally, there is a team class, for a set of
four dogs, again, with assorted exercises.


E.  Herding.

My thanks to Lily Mummert for the information in this section.

HT: Herding Tested
PT: Pre-trial Tested
HS: Herding Started
HI: Herding Instinct
HX: Herding Excellent
HCH: Herding Trial Champion

Test classes: herding and pre-trial.  These are pass/fail. If your dog
passes two herding tests under two different judges, it earns the HT
(Herding Tested) title. Similarly, the dog earns the PT (Pre-Trial
Tested) for passing two pre-trial tests under two different judges. For
both classes, you get 10 minutes to negotiate the course.

Herding test elements:
- a sit or down stay at the start,
- controlled movement of the stock between two pylons, located at
   opposite ends of the ring.  Includes two changes in direction.
- stop and recall at the end

Pre-trial test elements:
- a stay at the start
- controlled movement of stock, including a change of direction and
  passage through four gates
- a stop at some point on the course
- a stop before penning the stock
- penning the stock

Trial classes: herding started, intermediate, and advanced.  The
titles associated with each of these levels are HS (Herding Started),
HI (Herding Intermediate), and HX (Herding Excellent).  For each of
these titles, the dog must earn three qualifying scores in the
appropriate class under three different judges. There's also the HCH
(Herding Champion), which is a competition title -- the dog must have
an HX, and then earn 15 championship points in the Advanced class.

There are three courses that may be offered for each class. The
premium list for a trial specifies which course(s) will be offered.
Course A is in an arena. Course B is a modified ISDS course; it's in a
field. Course C is a modified version of what is used in Europe; it
includes negotiating roads and such.

According to my instructors, Course A is the most widely used of the
three, so I'll describe that one.  You get 10 minutes on this course,
regardless of class.  For herding started, the dog lifts the stock at
the top of the course, and moves them through four obstacles around
the course in a predetermined order. The obstacles are chutes or gates
of various kinds. The dog then pens the stock.  For the intermediate
class, there's an outrun, lift, and fetch, with the handler staying at
a handler's post until the dog has passed the post (after the outrun,
lift and fetch).  One of the obstacles is a holding pen -- the dog has
to move the stock into the pen and hold them there for about a minute.
Then there's the pen at the end. Advanced has the same elements as
intermediate, except the course is longer, and the handler's movement
is more restricted. The other courses also get vastly complicated as
you go from started to advanced.


1.  References

SHEEP! Magazine
Rt. 1
Helenville WI 53137

The Ranch Dog Trainer (magazine)
Rt. 1, Box 21
Koshkonong MO 56592

Holmes, John.  _The Farmer's Dog_.  Order from SHEEP!

Jones, H. Glyn.  _A Way of Life_.  Order from SHEEP!
  H. Glyn Jones talks to Barbara C. Collins.

Karrasch, Dick.  _Training a Stockdog: For Beginners_.  Wondereye
Farm, Rt. 1, Box 42, Vandiver AL 35176.

O'Reilly, Chuck.  _Training Working Livestock Dogs_.  Rt. 4, Box 33B,
Red Wind MN 55066.

Robertson, Pope.  _Anybody Can Do It_.  Rovar Publ. Co., 522 East 2nd
St., Elgin TX 78621.

Templeton, John and Matt Mundell.  _Working Sheep Dogs_.  Order from
SHEEP!

There are many videos listed in the back of the magazines.  There is
also a wide variety of breed specific books relative to the breed of
dog you are interested in. Please write to the appropriate parent club
for details.  In addition, both the American Herding Breeds
Association and the Australian Shepherd Club of America offer herding
trials and their own titles.


F.  Championships.

1.  Dual or Triple Championships

Currently three titles awarded by the AKC go into making up the DCH
and TCH titles.  These are:

CH     - Champion of Record.
OTCH   - Obedience Trial Champion.
FCH    - Field Trial Champion.

These three titles can be combined in the following manner:

DCH    - One of the following combinations:
         CH + OTCH, CH + FCH, OTCH + FCH

TCH    - CH + OTCH + FCH

Any dog who is a DCH or especially a TCH is an outstanding
representation of the breed.  If the DCH is one half Champion of
Record this is a dog that most breeders would give their eye teeth to
breed to.

NB: I am not sure why HCH isn't substitutable for FCh above, but I
imagine for breeders of herding breeds, a CH + HCH is likewise highly
desirable, as would be a CH + OTCH + HCH.

2.  Title notation

Certain titles go before the dog's registered name, others go after.
Championship titles go before the name; non-championship titles go
after the name.

There are also orderings within the champion and non-champion titles.
If a dog also has a Amateur Field Championship that title is placed in
front of its name, in addition to the other titles (e.g., CH), but
behind them if they exist.

At an AKC event, a dog may be listed only with its AKC-recognized
titles.  Therefore, it may not have all of its titles listed in the
catalogue for the show.  Outside of AKC sponsorship, all of the titles
that a dog has earned may be listed.


G.  Other AKC Titles.

1.  AKC Canine Good Citizen Test

(from the AKC pamphlet)
"The purpose of the Canine Good Citizen Test is to demonstrate
that the dog , as a companion of man, can be a respected member of the
community, and can be trained and conditioned always to behave in the
home, in public places, and in the presence of other dogs, in a manner
that will reflect credit on the dog.  The Canine Good Citizen Test is
not a competitive program, but rather a program of certification; it
seeks to identify and recognize officially those dogs that possess the
attributes that enable them to serve effectively as personal
companions and as members in good standing with the community."

  * Evaluated on appearance and willingness to be groomed and
    examined, reaction to approach of a stranger.

  * Evaluated on acceptance of a stranger in a natural everyday
    situation: owner and judge shake hands, talk.  Dog must not show
    signs of resentment or shyness and must remain in sit.

  * Must demonstrate that dog is under control in walking.  Heeling is
    not required, but dog must not lag or forge.

  * Demonstrate walking through a crowd.  Dog may show some interest
    in the people, but remain calmly with owner.

  * Must demonstrate that the dog will allow a stranger to approach
    and pet it.  Dog must remain sitting.

  * Demonstrates sit and down on command by owner.

  * Demonstrates stay.  Owner walks 20 feet away then returns.
    Must maintain position until released.

  * Demonstrate good behavior around another dog.  Should show no more
    than casual interest.

  * Reaction to distractions: sudden noises, animated talking and
    backslapping, a jogger, shopping cart, or bicycle passing closely
    by.  Dog may show interest, curiousity, momentary startle but no
    panic, aggression, nor barking.

  * Demonstrate being left alone: fastened to a fifteen foot line and
    owner is out of sight for 5 minutes.  No whining, barking, or
    howling.


H.  Breed Clubs.

Many breed clubs require sponsors to become a member.  They want you
to learn from other breeders.  If you go to a show and become friends
with a breeder and talk to some others, you will get sponsors quickly.
Breeders like to be a mentor to a new member.  If you hang around long
enough and really start asking a lot of questions on the spot
(preferably when they are not nervous about being next in the ring)
you'll become quickly accepted.  Find a breeder you want to get your
next puppy from and talk with them a lot.

A sponsor is another breeder that has talked to you and told you about
the ethics and looked at you to make sure you are not likely to become
a puppy mill breeder.  They are looking at you to make sure you are
trying to improve the breed and you are going to be responsible about
breeding and showing.

Most if not all breed clubs have a code of ethics that members must
adhere to.

Many breed clubs have their own certificates and titles.  For example,
the Labrador Retriever Club has the WC (Working Certificate) title
that is very similar to the AKC JH title.

The Australian Shepherd Club of America sponsors herding competitions
at which other herding breeds may compete.

STD:	Started Trial Dog. Given to dogs that twice pass the first
	level ASCA herding test. A suffix of s, d, and/or c is
	used (i.e. STDc) for earning the STD using sheep, ducks,
	or cattle, respectively.

OTD:	Open Trial Dog. The second level of difficulty under the
	ASCA trial system. Stock abbreviations same as in STD.

ATD:	Advanced Trial Dog. The third level of difficulty under the
	ASCA trial system. Stock abbreviations same as in STD.

GSD's that qualify for a V or a VA at a conformation show under
German/International auspices must have earned a HGH
(Herdengebrauchtshunde).


I.  Other Clubs and Organizations

1. American Temperament Test Society

TT:     Temperament Test. Awarded by the American Temperament Test
        Society to dogs that behave in a reasonable and stable manner
	when exposed to a variety of sounds, people, etc.

2.  Therapy Dogs International

TDI:	Therapy Dogs International. For dogs that are used as therapy
	dogs in hospitals and nursing homes. Test involves some obedience
	work, including off-leash.


----------------
This file is not copyrighted.  It is in the public domain and may
*not* be copyrighted by anyone.  Please feel free to forward copies of
this to anyone you like.  I only ask that you keep the document
intact, including the addresses below so that any recipient knows
where to query about possible updates.  Include a self addressed,
stamped envelope on postal queries.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@ics.uci.edu  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716

Archive-name: dogs-faq/references
Version: 1.0
Last-modified: 17 May 1992

This is one (of eight) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists for
rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates, additions,
and corrections (including attributions) are always welcome: send
email to one of the addresses below.

The eight parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu in the
directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, training, working, AKC-titles, misc1,
and references.  To obtain the files, first try ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp does not
work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
...etc, in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).

Changes are indicated with |'s.

VII.  References.

  A.  Books.
  B.  Articles.
  C.  Companies and Catalogues.
  D.  Magazines.
  E.  Organizations.


L = British pounds sterling
$ = US dollar
CA$ = Canadian dollar

A.  Books.

_Merck Veterinary Manual_

_The Mini-Atlas of Dog Breeds, Simon & Schusters Guide to Dogs_.
  Lists a variety of breeds.  It does contain errors; it is an OK
  but not great reference book.

_Harper's Illustrated Handbook of Dogs_. Harper and Row, ISBN
0-06-091198-0.
  It gives a picture of every AKC dog breed and a one page description
  of each breed in the back.  The description covers appearance, AKC
  standards, potential health problems, needs, history, temperament.

Baer, Ted.  _Communicating with Your Dog_.  Barron's, New York. 1989.
ISBN 0-8120-4203-4 (oversized paperback).
  Heavily illustrated with color photos.  A sensible approach to
  laying a good foundation for extensive obedience training (even if
  you don't take the dog any further than what's outlined in here).
  Simple instructions for teaching a 20-word language, with emphasis
  on understanding and building on previous work.

Barwig, Susan.  _Schutzhund_.  Quality Press, Englewood, CO.  1978.

Bauman, Diane L.  _Beyond Basic Dog Training_.  New, updated edition.
Howell Book House (Maxwell Maxmillan International), New York.  1991.
ISBN: 0-87605-410-6.
  Emphasis is on training a "thinking" dog rather than a
  pattern-trained dog.  Extensive manual on obedience training.
  Communication and understanding are discussed.  A well known and
  often recommended book.

Benjamin, Carol Lea.  _Mother Knows Best: The Natural Way To Train
Your Dog_.  Howell Book House, New York. 1985.  ISBN 0-87605-666-4.
$15.95 hardcover.
  "No matter how the pup transgresses, no matter how angry the bitch
  becomes, she never denies him his nourishment.  He never goes to bed
  without his supper.  Nor does she offer tidbits of food, treats
  beneath the table, extra portions of dessert to reward good
  behavior. Eating is eating and education is education."

  She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she
  does not recommend food training a young puppy.  She does recommend
  crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room
  with the puppy.  She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad
  dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out,
  cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. She talks about
  canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with
  your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him
  copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy.

  Most training methods rely on the foundational relationship between
  an owner and his dog, and this book profides some ideas on
  establishing that relationship while the puppy is still young.

Benjamin, Carol Lea.  _Dog Problems_.  Doubleday and Co. 1981.  ISBN
0-385-15710-X.  $13.95 hardcover.

Brahms, Ann and Paul. _Puppy Ed._.  Ballantine Books.  1981.
ISBN:0-345-33512-0 (paperback).
  Describes how to start teaching your puppy commands.  This is a
  thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and
  cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it.  They stress
  that by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later,
  more formal training goes much easier.

Burnham, Patricia Gail.  _Playtraining Your Dog_.

Button, Lue.  _Practical Scent Dog Training_.  Alpine Publications,
Inc. 214 19th St. SE, Loveland, CO 80537.  1990.  ISBN: 0-931866-47-2.
  A step-by-step practical training guide for air scent, evidence
  search, disaster search and the AKC tracking test.  Starts with
  young puppies.  Well illustrated and methods extensively tested at
  Los Alamos' Mountain Canine Corps.

Bryson, Sandy.  _Search Dog Training_.  Third printing.  Boxwood
Press, 183 Ocean View Blvd., Pacific Grove, CA 93950.  1991 (c 1984).
ISBN: 0-910286-94-9.
  A well organized, comprehensive discussion of search dog training.
  Includes practical tips, discussion of search and rescue and the law
  and many other topics.

Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD.  _Dog Owners's Home
Veterinary Handbook_.  Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing
Company, 866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA (1980).  ISBN:
0-87605-764-4 (hardback).
  This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
  It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
  take it to the vet post-haste.  It lists symptoms so that you may
  inform your vet of relevant information about its condition.  The
  arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
  Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,
  etc).  Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants.  A
  valuable book to have around.

Chapman, Samuel G. _Police Dogs in America_.  Bureau of Government
Research, 1979.

Clark, Ross D. and Joan R. Stainer, eds.  _Medical and Genetic Aspects
of Purebred Dogs_.  Veterinary Medicine Publishing Co., Edwardsville,
KA. 1983. ISBN 0-935078-24-X. 576 pages.
  For most AKC breeds and a few UKC breeds, there are sections on
	Origin & History
	Description
	Breeding and Whelping
	Recognized Problems
	Old Age
  This accumulation of knowledge about the health of specific breeds
  from breeders and veterinarians provides the potential dog owner
  with information that can help them select a strong breed, an
  informed and caring breeder, and a healthy pet.

Collins, Miki and Julie.  _Dog Driver, A Guide for the Serious Musher_.
Alpine Publishing, 1991.  385 pgs hardcover.  ISBN: 0-931866-48-0.
  A complete reference covering all aspects of working and living with
  sled dogs.  From housing to health, nutrition, equipment, breeding,
  training, and much more.  Sprint racing, long distance racing,
  weight pulling, camping, and so forth are also covered.  Excellent
  book for learning about sledding and sled dogs.  Best if used in
  association with one of the other novice books mentioned for
  beginning mushers.

Coon, K.  1977.  The Dog Intelligence Test.  New York: Avon, 90 p.

Davis, L. Wilson.  _Go Find!  Training Your Dog to Track_.  Ninth
printing, 1984.  Howell Book House, Inc., New York.  c1974.
ISBN: 0-87605-550-1 (hardback).
  Blurb:  "Major L. Wilson Davis is America's recognized authority on
  Tracking -- named in September 1973 to the Obedience Advisory
  Committee of the AKC as its official consultant on Tracking and
  scent training for dogs.  This official status follows upon decades
  of recognized achievemnent in these phases of Obedience training.
  Following distinguished service with the K-9 Corps during WWII, he
  has been active in the Governmnent's program of using trained
  tracking dogs for the recovery of detonated missile parts in missile
  experimentation.  Major Davis was an AKC licenced judge for all
  classes of Obedience.  He is presently training director of the
  famous Oriole Dog Training Club of Baltimore.  He organized and
  headed the Baltimor City K-9 Corps, one of the finest in the
  country, and is often asked to lecture and advise police departments
  on the use of tracking dogs in law enforcement.  Major Davis is a
  recipient of the Quaker Oats Distinguished Service Award for his
  dedicated contributions to dog training."

De Prisco, Andrew and James B. Johnson.  _The Mini-Atlas of Dog
Breeds_. TFH Publications, One TFH Plaza, Neptune City, NJ 07753
(1990).  ISBN:0-86622-091-7 (hardback).
  This book lists and describes over 500 breeds from around the world.
  Abundantly illustrated with color drawings and photos.  Includes a
  short forward on what criteria you should consider in choosing a
  breed, and a short description of the categories it chose to group
  dogs in (slightly different from, eg. AKC groupings).

Evans, J.M. and Kay White.  _The Dogopedia: A complete Guide to Dog
Care_.  Henston, Ltd, England.  1985.  ISBN: 0-9510620-0-X.  L6.95.
  An inexpensive guide to dogs.

Evans, J.M. and Kay White.  _The Book of the Bitch: A Complete Guide
to Understanding and Caring for Bitches_.  Henston Ltd, England.  1988.
ISBN 1-85054-115-0.  L6.95.

Evans, Job Michael.  _The Evan's Guide for Housetraining Your Dog_.
ISBN: 0-87605-542-0.
    Evans was a monk at New Skete for some years.  He discusses all
    aspects of housetraining puppies and dogs, giving many
    constructive solutions for all kinds of specific problems.

Evans, Job Michael.  (1991).  People, Pooches, & Problems.  NY:
      Howell Book House.  ISBN 0-87605-783-0 (hardcover).  $19.95

Flanders, Noel.  _The Joy of Running Sled Dogs_.  Alpine Publishing
1989.  107 pgs softcover.  ISBN: 0-931866-39-1.
  This is a brief, beginners level, introduction to living and
  working with sled dogs.  A good compact reference.

Fishback, Lee and Mel.  _Novice Sled Dog Training_.  13th printing,
Raymond Thompson Company, 1989.  37 pgs softcover.
  This is a very brief guide for the begining dog driver.  Covers
  equipment, basic obedience, lead dog training, handling problem
  dogs, and sled dog racing.

Fogle, Bruce.  _The Dog's Mind_.
  Excellent book...see chapter on the effects of various hormones.

Harrington, Paula.  _Looking ahead: Guide Dogs for the Blind_. 1st ed.
San Rafael, CA: Guide Dogs for the Blind, c1990.
  This one is sort of a "coffee table" book; lots of nice color
  photographs, and it covers the history of Guide Dogs, the training
  (both for the dog and the blind person), the 4-H puppy raisers, and
  lots of other stuff.

Hart, Lynette A. _The Perfect Puppy_.  WH Freeman. 1987.  ISBN
0-7167-1829-4.
  This covers only about 65 breeds' temperaments, but makes a
  greater effort to be objective than some other sources.

Hearne, Vicki.  _Adam's Task_. Knopf.  1986.
  Described as the best single reference on Koehler.

Hutt, FB: Genetics for Dog Breeders; W. H. Freeman and Co., San
Francisco, CA, 1979.

Johnson, Nancy E.  _Everyday Dog_. Howell Book House, New York.  1990.

Kaynor, Carol and Mari Hoe-Raitto.  _Skijoring: An Introduction to the
Sport_.

Koehler, William.  _The Koehler Method of Dog Training_. Howell Books.

Lanting, Fred L.  _Canine Hip Dysplasia and Other Orthopedic Problems_.
Alpine Publications, Inc., CO.  1981.  ISBN 0-931866-06-5.
  Also available from R.C. Steele.


Lopez, Barry H. _Of Wolves and Men_.  Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.
308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
  Description of wolves and their relationship with humans.  Not
  really a technical discussion of wolves like the _The Wolf_ (Mech).

Lorenz, Konrad.  _Man Meets Dog_.  1977.

Levorsen, Bella, ed.  _MUSH!  A beginer's Manual of Sled Dog Training_,
edited for the Sierra Nevada Dog Drivers Inc.  Arner Publications, 1976.
250pgs hardcover.  ISBN: 0-91424-06-4.
  A beginners guide to sled dogs and mushing.  This is a very good
  begining book to learn about equipment and training, as well as sled
  dog health issues.  Excellent novice mushing book.

Lowell, Michele.  _Your Purebred Puppy: A Buyer's Guide_.  Holt and
Co.  1991.  ISBN 0-8050-1892-1.
  Far more comprehensive than Hart's book, with useful warnings
  about health defects to watch for in specific breeds.

Mandeville, John J., and Ab Sidewater, eds.  _The Complete Dog Book:
official publication of the American Kennel Club_.  Seventeenth
edition.  Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Company, New York.
1985.  ISBN 0-87605-463-7.  768 pages.
  This is the reference for the AKC breed standards, each of which
  covers several pages and includes a black and white photograph and
  text on the breed's history, characteristics, and nature.  The
  health section is not illustrated, but is otherwise excellent as it
  was prepared with the cooperation of the faculty of the School of
  Veterinary Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania. Potential
  buyers of this book probably ought to wait for the next edition,
  since it is now seven years old and new editions have been published
  every three years (on average).

  Table of contents:
     Introduction
     Before You Buy Your Dog
     The American Kennel Club
     The Dog Sport
     The Dog's Anatomy
     Color Display of Pure-bred Dogs(1)
     The Breeds: Histories and Official Standards
     Group I: Sporting Dogs
     Group II: Hounds
     Group III: Working Dogs
     Group IV: Terriers
     Group V: Toys
     Color Display of Pure-bred Dogs(2)
     Group VI: Non-Sporting Dogs
     Group VII: Herding Dogs
     The Miscellaneous Class
     Healthy Dog -- Keeping your dog healthy, happy, and well-behaved
     Glossary
     Index

Mech, L. David. _The Wolf_.  University of Minnesota Press, 1970.
384 pgs Softcover.  ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
  Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology.
  David Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly
  informative and well written book.

Milani, Myrna M., DVM. _The Weekend Dog_.  Signet (Penguin Books USA,
Inc.) (1985). ISBN: 0-451-15731-1 (paperback).
  This book outlines practical solutions for working people with dogs.
  It has excellent suggestions for understanding dog behavior,
  particularly destructive or unwanted behavior.  Gives all kinds of
  practical solutions to the problems of adequate exercise, adequate
  training, housebreaking, and so forth.

Milani, Myrna M., DVM. _The Invisible Leash_.

Miller, Harry.  _The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care_.  Bantam
Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987).  ISBN: 0-553-27789-8 (paperback).
  This small book provides a surprising amount of useful information.
  A little on the "lightweight" side, nevertheless, it gives a good
  outline of what you should know about your puppy or dog.  You can
  use this to decide how much you do know and where you need to brush
  up on what you don't.  Besides sections on how to select the right
  dog, it covers basic puppy needs (housetraining, feeding,
  illnesses), basic training, basic pet care, and a complete list of
  AKC breeds (each breed illustrated with b/w drawing, thumbnail
  sketch included -- good as an overview, but not very specific).
  Includes a section on practical home care, listing major symptoms
  you should be alert for, and listing general criteria by which you
  can determine a dog's overall healthiness.  Discusses major diseases
  and problems, gives sketches on what may be wrong given certain
  symptoms.  Includes guides to nutrition, grooming, health care.
  (Author is Emeritus Director, Gaines Dog Research Center.)

Monks of New Skete, The.  _How To Be Your Dog's Best Friend_.  Little,
Brown & Company.  1978.  ISBN: 0-316-60491-7 (hardback).
  A monastery in upstate New York breeds, raises, and trains German
  Shepherd Dogs.  On the basis of their considerable experience, they
  offer troubleshooting guides, discuss discipline, environmental
  restrictions, basic and puppy training, and much more.  Extensive
  bibliography.  The emphasis is on understanding the dog in order to
  communicate with it or to solve problem behavior.  An excellent,
  well written classic.

Monks of New Skete, The.  _The Art of Raising a Puppy_.  Little, Brown
and Company (1991).  ISBN: 0-316-57839-8 (hardback).
  The monks of New Skete have put together an excellent book that
  discusses puppy development and the things that should be done at
  the appropriate stages and why.  First they follow a newborn litter
  through its various stages of development and at each stage they
  discuss what is happening.  They discuss testing puppies'
  temperaments and what you want to look for, under which
  circumstances.  They discuss briefly dog breeds, and how to find
  reputable breeders.  They then launch into a series of useful
  chapters: housebreaking, preliminary obedience, laying the
  foundations of training, understanding (reading) your dog, how to
  become the pack leader, basic training, discipline, and general
  care.  A good bibliography is provided at the back.

Mugford, Roger.  _Dr. Mugford's Casebook_.
  Case studies.

Neville, Peter.  _Do Dogs Need Shrinks?_.
  Case studies.

Nicholas, FW. _Veterinary Genetics_. Oxford University Press, New
York, NY, 1987.

Olson, Bjorn.  _Training Your Dog Step by Step_.

Pearsall, Milo D. and Hugo Verbruggen, MD.  _Scent: Traning to Track,
Search, and Rescue_.  Alpine Publications, Inc., Colorado.  1982.
ISBN: 0-931-866-11-1.
  Blurb: "The authors first look at the scientific qualities of scent
  -- what and how dogs smell and how environmental factors affect the
  track.  Then they use this background as a basis for training.
  Topics include the science of scent, kindergarted puppy tracking,
  tracking equipment, tracking tests, training to search, search and
  track, search and find, search and rescue, trail companion, scent
  and the law enforcement agency, first aid on the trail and much more."

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J.  _The new knowledge of dog behavior_.
Foreword by J. P. Scott.  Consultant on genetics: Benson E. Ginsburg.
New York, Howell Book House, 1963.
  Gives an excellent history of how Guide Dogs was started, and has
  other interesting information.

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J., et al., with the editorial assistance of
Sarah F. Scott. _Guide Dogs for the Blind, Their Selection,
Development, and Training_.  Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Scientific
Pub.  Co.; distributors for the U.S. and Canada, Elsevier/North
Holland, 1976.
  Many specific details on the genetics, training, 4-H project
  coordination, and so forth.

Randolph, Elizabeth.  _How to Help Your Puppy Grow Up to be a Wonderful
Dog_. ISBN 0-449-21503-2.

Randolph, Mary.  _Dog Law_.  Nolo Press, 950 Parker St., Berkeley CA
94710 (800)992-6656. ISBN 0-87337-078-3. $12.95.
  Author is an attorney.  "... _Dog Law_ answers common questions on
  such topics as biting, barking, veterinarians, leash laws, travel,
  landlords, wills, guide dogs, pit bulls, cruelty and much more."

Riser, Wayne. _Canine Hip Dysplasia and How to Control It_. 1965.
  The original experiment showed that puppies raised in 3' x 3' x 3'
  cages for the first 90 days showed a drastic reduction in dysplasia
  at 24 months when compared with a control group, as evidenced by
  radiographs.

  The study also showed that puppies raised on slippery floors, or
  allowed to run, jump, climb stairs, chase balls, stand on hind legs,
  etc. showed a markedly higher incidence of HD at 24 mos.

  The moral of the story is: If you have a puppy which is of a breed
  that has a high incidence of dysplasia, limit vigorous activity when
  young.

  (A more complete reference to some of the work done by Riser, Morris
  and Fred Lanting is contained in the Howell 'Rottweiler' book.)

Rogerson, John.  _Your Dog, its Development, Behaviour and Training_.
  Also, _Training Your Dog_.

Rubin, Lionel F.  _Inherited Eye Diseases in Purebred Dogs_.

Rutherford, Clarice, and David H. Neil, MRCVS.  _How to Raise a Puppy
You Can Live With_.  Alpine Publications, Loveland, CO, 1981.  ISBN
0-931866-09-X. 126 pages.
  The authors demonstrate their deep understanding of young dogs, and
  their clear guidance is sure to help owners build a strong bond with
  their new companion.

  Table of contents:
  Introduction
  1. Choosing Your Puppy
  2. Behavior -- The Environmental Factor
  3. The Developmental Period
  4. The Breeder's Responsibility (the first seven weeks)
  5. Puppy Testing
  6. Socialization Continues (eight to twelve weeks)
  7. Puppy Goes to a New Home
  6. Shaping Your Pup's Behavior
  9. Development from Three to Six Months
  10. The Pack Leader Concept
  11. The Importance of Personality
  12. Puppy Training
  13. The Second Six Months
  Afterword
  About the Authors
  References
  Index

Scott, J. P., and J. L. Fuller.  1974.  Dog Behavior. The Genetic
Basis. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 468 p.

Serpell, James.  _In the Company of Animals_.  Basil Blackwell, Oxford.
1986.  ISBN: 0-631-14536-2.
  Book on pet keeping through time and across cultures.

Strickland, Winifred G. _Expert Obedience Training for Dogs_.  Third
revised edition.  Howell Book House (Macmillan Publishing Company),
New York.  1987.  ISBN: 0-02-615000-X (hardback).
  Strickland is a well known dog trainer.  Covers all aspects of
  training and competition including the formal training for AKC
  obedience trials (novice, open, utility, tracking).  Includes some
  general care (health and feeding) tips.  Author has also written
  _Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs_.

Sylvester, Patricia, ed.  _The Reader's Digest Illustrated Book of Dogs_.
Revised edition.  The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.,
Pleasantville, NY.  1989.  ISBN 0-89577-340-6.  384 pages.
  Besides the excellent text and illustrations in the album, which
  cover 2 pages for each breed (175 total), the informative sections
  are also well-written and illustrated and include many color
  photographs as well. This is a good general reference on dogs, and
  is especially helpful when choosing a breed to own.  The health
  chapters are invaluable to non-veterinarian owners.

  Table of contents:
    Dogs and Civilization
    Identifying Dogs
    Album of Dogs
    You and Your Dog
    Health
    Kennel Clubs
    Glossary
    Index

Taylor, David. _You and Your Dog_.  Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
  This useful book is an overall guide to the health and care of dogs.
  It includes a basic listing of dog breeks (AKC).  This is a good
  general purpose book that gives you an idea of what all is involved
  in owning and caring for a dog.  Taylor gives flow-chart questions
  to consider when deciding if symptoms are serious or not.  An easily
  understandable format.  Not as comprehensive as other care books,
  but a good start in understanding what you need to look for when
  your dog seems off.  Includes illustrations of many procedures, such
  as teeth cleaning and claw trimming.  Informative discussion of
  reproductive system, grooming, and dog anatomy.

Tellington-Jones, Linda, with Sybil Taylor.  _The Tellington Touch:
A Breakthrough Technique to Train and Care for Your Favorite Animal_.
Viking Penguin.  1992.  ISBN 0-670-82578-6.
  Some of what Linda does is clearly helpful in dealing with problem
  dogs and cats, but there are parts of her presentation of her ideas
  that may turn people off because they seem to be a little too
  far out of the mainstream.  Good massage tips.

Tortora, Daniel F.  _The Right Dog For You_.  Fireside, Simon &
Schuster Trade Books. 1983.  ISBN 0-671-47247-X.
  Offers a complex decision procedure, with lots of questionnaires
  to alert you to the potential significance of various features of
  breed behavior and physical characteristics.  This is one of the few
  books that will discuss, candidly, negative aspects of a particular
  breed.

Tucker, Michael. _Dog Training Step by Step_.
  Tucker is an ex GDB instructor and his books are easy to read and
  follow. His others are _Dog Training Made Easy_, _Solving Your Dog
  Problems_.

Turner, Trevor, ed.  _Veterinary Notes for Dog Owners_.  Popular Dogs.
1991.  L17.99 paper, L30.00 hardback.
  Similar to the Horse Owners book.

Vanderlip, Sharon Lynn, DVM.  _The Collie: A Veterinary Reference for the
Professional Breeder_.

Volard. _Training Your Dog Step by Step_.

Welch, Jim.  _The Speed Mushing Manual_.  Sirius Publishing, 1989.
   ISBN: 0-96236-43-0-4.
   This is a book about serious sprint sled dog racing, the how to's.
   Not a novice book.

Weston, David.  _Dog Training: The Gentle Method_.

Wilcox, Bonnie and Chriss Walkowicz.  _Atlas of Dog Breeds_.  TFH
Publications.
  Over 900 pages long in large format.  The authors are top notch
  writers and did extensive research to compile this comprehensive
  resource of the world's dog breeds.  The book is profusely
  illustrated with excellent quality photographs and a 3-5 page
  article.  This book makes a good effort to show every color and
  every coat type of each breed in the various photos.  Expensive.

Willis, Bruce.  _Genetics of Dogs_.

Zimen, Eric.  Eric Mosbacher, trans. _The Wolf: His Place in the
Natural World_. (UK title).
  Book on wolf behavior.


B.  Articles.

A very good article on wolf-dogs/hybrids appears in the Friday
Chicago Tribune. March 13, 1992. [more complete reference?]

Angel, C., O. D. Murphree, and D. C. De Lucia.  1974.  The effects of
chlordiazepoxide, amphetamine and cocaine on bar-press behavior in
normal and genetically nervous dogs.  Res. Nerv. Syst. 35:220-23.

Bardens, JW. Palpation for the detection of dysplasia and wedge
technique for pelvic radiography; Proc AAHA; pp 468-471, 1972.

Cardinet, GH, III, Guffy, MM, et al. Canine hip dysplasia in German
Shepherd Dog - Greyhound crossbreeds; J Am Vet Med Assoc; 164:
591-598, 1983.

Corley, EA, Hogan, PM. Trends in hip dysplasia control: Analysis of
Radiographs submitted to the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals,
1974 to 1984; J Am Vet Med Assoc 187: 805-809, 1985.

Corley, EA, GG Keller. Hip Dysplasia A Guide for Dog Breeders and
Owners, 2nd Ed., Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, Columbia, MO,
1989.

Dixon, RT. The effect of limb positioning on the radiographic
diagnosis of canine hip dysplasia; Vet Rec 91: 644-646, 1972.

Fox, M. W., and J. W. Spencer.  1967.  Development of the delayed
response in the dog.  Anim. Behav. 15:162-68.

Fox, SM, Burns, J, Burt, J. Symposium on Hip Dysplasia; Vet Med:
pp 683-716, July, 1987.

Fuller, J. L., C. A. Easler, and E. M. Banks.  1950.  Formation of
conditioned avoidance responses in young puppies.  Am. J. Physiol.
160:462-66.

Gaebelein, C. J., R. A. Galosy, L. Botticelli, J. L. Howard, and P. A.
Obrist. 1977.  Blood pressure and cardiac changes during signalled and
unsignalled avoidance in dogs.  Physiol. Behav. 19:69-74.

Hart BL. "Effects of neutering and spaying on the behavior of dogs and
cats: Questions and answers about practical concerns," in JAVMA
1991;198:1204-1205.

Houpt KA, Coren B, Hintz et al.  "Effects of sex and reproductive
status on sucrose preference, food intake, and body weight of dogs,"
in JAVMA 1979; 174:1083-1085.

Houpt, Katherine A., VMD, PhD and Thomas R. Wolski DVM. Domestic
Animal Behavior for Veterinarians and Animal Scientists, 1982, pp.
235-238.  Discusses studies on breed differences in learning ability
or, at least, in acquisition and performance of various tasks.
Contains references to similar studies.

Henry, JD, Jr, Park, RD. Wedge technique for demonstration of
coxofemoral joint laxity in the canine: Proc. Canine Hip Dysplasia
Symposium and Workshop; OFA, Columbia, MO; pp 117-126, 1972.

Heshammer, A, Olsson, S-E, et al. Study of heritablility in 401
litters of German Shepherd Dogs; J. AM Vet Med Assoc 174:
1012-1016, 1979.  [Hip dysplasia.]

Hutt, FB. Genetic selection to reduce the incidence of hip
dysplasia in dogs; J Am Vet Med Assoc; 151: 1041-1048, 1967.

Johnson SD.  "Questions and answers on the effects of surgically
neutering dogs and cats," in JAVMA 1991;198:1206-1213.

Kasstrom, H. Nutrition, weight gain, and development of hip
dysplasia: An experimental investigation in growing dogs with
special reference to the effect of feeding intensity; Acta Radiol
Suppl 344: 135-179, 1975.

Lane RS. Treatment of clothing with a permethrin spray for
personal protection against the Western black-legged tick,
Ixodes pacificus (Acari: ixodidae). Exp Appl Acarol 1989;

LeRoux PH.  Thyroid status, oestradiol level, work performance and
body mass of ovariectomised bitches and bitches bearing ovarian
autotransplants in the stomach wall.  J S Afr Vet Assoc
1977;48:115-117.

Lynch, J. J., and J. F. McCarthy.  1967.  The effect of petting on a
classically conditioned emotional response.  Behaav. Res. Ther.
5:55-62.

Mackenzie, SA. Canine hip dysplasia: Why heritability estimates
differ; Canine Pract 12: 19-22, 1985.

Marrion, Ruth, DMV.  "New Views on Neutering," in _Purebred
Dogs/American Kennel Gazette_, April 1992 (pp50-54).

Morgan, JP, M Stephens. Radiographic Diagnosis and Control of Canine
Hip Dysplasia; Venture Press, Davis, CA, 1985.

Nicholas, FW. "Hip Dysplasia: Perspectives of the Eighties" in
_Seminars in Veterinary Medicine and Surgery (Small Animals)_. Grune &
Stratton, Inc., Orlando, FL, Vol II, No. 2, May 1987.

Rendano, VT, Ryan G. Canine hip dysplasia evaluation; J Vet Radiol,
26:170-186, 1985.

Salmeri KR, Bloomberg MS, Scruggs SL, Shille V.  Gonadectomy in
immature dogs: Effects on skeletal, physical, and behavioral
development.  JAVMA 1991;198:1193-1203.

Salmeri KR, Olson PN, Bloomberg MS.  Elective gonadectomy in dogs: A
review.  JAVMA 1991;198:1183-1191.

Schulze TL, McDevitt WM, Parkin WE, Shisler JK.
Effectiveness of Two Insecticides in Controlling Ixodes
dammini (Acari: IXxodidae) Following an Outbreak of Lyme
Disease in New Jersey. J.Med. Entomol. 24:420-424 (1987)

Stanley, W. C., W. E. Bacon, and C. Fehr.  1970.  Discriminated
instrumental learning in neonatal dogs.  J. Comp. Physiol. Psychol.
70:335-43.

Stanley, W. C., J. E. Barrett, and W. E. Bacon.  1974.  Conditioning
and extinction of avoidance and escape behavior in neonatal dogs.  J.
Comp. Physiol. Psychol. 87:163-72.

Thrusfield MV.  Association between urinary incontinence and spaying
bitches.  Vet Rec. 1985;116:695.

Vogel, H. H., Jr., J. P. Scott, and M.-'V. Marston.  1950.  Social
facilitation and allelomimetic behavior in dogs. I. Social
facilitation in a non-competitive situation.  Behaviour 2:121-34.

Woodbury, C. B.  1943.  The learning of stimulus patterns by dogs.  J.
Comp. Psychol. 35:29-40.


C.  Companies and Catalogues.

Disclaimer: I do not know of the accuracy of any of these addresses.
I was given two different addresses for some companies, both appear.
I can make no other statement about any of these companies or their
products.  If you have any comments or corrections, I will note them
here along with the date.

Acme Machine Co.
2901 Freemont Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN  55408
phone: 1-800-332-2472, 612-827-3571
fax: 612-827-8905
obedience supplies, including a dumbbell with a nylabone dowel.

ADANAK Sleds and Equipment
4108 Hywy 93 N
Kalispell, MT  59901
(406) 752 - 2929
Sledding equpment.

Alpine Publications, Inc.
233 South Madison Avenue
P.O. Box 7027
Loveland, Colorado  80537
phone: 1-800-777-7257 orders only, 303-667-2017 customer service
books

Animal Town, Inc.
P.O. Box 1710
El Cajon, CA 92022
phone:  previously listed number invalid as of 4/92
dog, cat, fish, bird, and small animal pet supplies.

Bedford Farms/Black Ice
11225 County Road 20
Delano, Minnesota  55328
phone: 612-955-2505
sledding supplies.  excellent harnesses.

Beef Rawhide
P.O. Box 1210
Riverdale, NY  10471-1210
phone: 1-800-836-2333
rawhides.  very good quality and prices.

Care-A-Lot Pet Supply Warehouse
1617 Diamond Springs Road
Virginia Beach, Virginia  23455
phone:  1-800-343-7680 outside Virginia   804-460-9771 within Virginia
   phones staffed: m-f 9 am - 6:30 pm, sat 10 am - 5 pm, eastern time
fax: 804-460-0317
general dog and cat supplies, some tools

Cherrybrook
Route 57, P.O. Box 15
Broadway, New Jersey  08808
phone: 1-800-524-0820 outside NJ, 201-689-7979 in NJ
   phone hours not listed.  warehouse hours m-f 9-6, sat 9-5, eastern
fax: 201-689-7988
general dog and cat supplies.

Denlinger's Publishers, LTD.
P.O. Box 76
Fairfax, Virginia  22030
phone: 703-830-4646
fax: 703-830-5303
books

Direct Book Service
P.O. Box 15357
Seattle, WA  98115
phone:  1-800-766-2665, 206-323-5962 locally
   phone staffed: 8-5 M-F
fax 1-206-525-5285
dog books, including out-of-print books.

Dog & Cat Book Catalog
(from) Direct Book Service
PO Box 15357, Seattle WA 98115
1-800-776-2665
books on all subjects: behavior, naming your dog, hunting, herding,
training (all kinds), and out-of-print books

Econo.Vet
1-800-451-4162
(best vaccine prices in the US)

Foster & Smith
1-800-826-7206

Goldrusk Pet Care Center
1991 Allouez Avenue
Green Bay, Wisconsin  54311
414-468-7956

Howell Book House
866 Third Avenue
New York, New York  10022
phone: 1-800-257-5755, 212-702-3424

IKON Outfitters LTD.
7597 Latham Road
Lodi, Wisconsin  53555
phone: 608-592-4397
   phone staffed: m-f 8-5, central time
sleds, sledding and carting supplies, backpacks.

Invisible Fencing
724 West Lancaster Avenue
Wayne, Pennsylvania  19087
215-964-0600

J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies, Inc.
289 Wagaraw Road
Hawthorne, New Jersey  07506
phone: 1-800-526-0388 or 1-800-872-6028 outside NJ, 201-423-2222 in NJ
   phones staffed: m-f 9-6, sat 9:30 - 4:30, eastern time
fax: 201-423-1181
800 numbers are supposed to work for both US, Canada
general dog supplies.  some cat supplies.

Jeffers Vet Supply
Box 100
Dothan, Alabama  36302-0100
phone: 1-800-633-7592

J and J Dog Supplies
P.O. Box 1517
Galesburg, Illinois  61402
phone: 1-800-642-2050
   phone staffed: 8:30-4:30, central time.  days not listed.
fax: 309-344-3522
obedience supplies, leather leashes.

Kaleb's Kart Co
Route 3, Box 89 chapel Lane
Neilsville, WI  54456
(715) 743 - 3864
Skijoring equipment.

Kicksled USA
Old Rte. 16
Center Ossipee, NH  03814
(800) 621 - 2636
Lightweight dog sleds for training and family fun.

Konari Outfitters
P.O. Box 752
52 Seymour St.
Middlebury, VT  05753
phone: (802) 388 - 7447
variety of outdoor/dog supplies.  Sledding harnesses,
backpacks, etc.

Leerburg Video Production
P.O. Box 218
Menomonie, Wisconsin  54751
715-235-6502

Long Run Kennels
P.O. Box 1475
Charlestown, RI 02813
phone: 1-800-365-6936 (1-800-enjoyem)
   phone staffed: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
general pet supplies.  $30 minimum order.

Master Animal Care
411 7th Avenue
Box 7
Two Harbors, Minnesota  55616-0007
1-800-346-0749
1-800-325-2465 (in Minnesota)

Nordkyn Outfitters
P.O. Box 1023
Graham, WA  98338-1023
phone: 206-847-4128
sledding and weight pulling supplies.

Omaha Vaccine Company
Best Care Catalogue
3030 "L" Street  PO Box 7228
Omaha, Nebraska 68107
phone: 1-800-367-4444
  7am to 6pm M-F, 8am to noon Saturday Central time
sister company to Wholesale Veterinary Supplies.

Pedigrees
1989 Transit Way
Box 905
Brockport, NY  14420-0905
phone: order desk: 716-637-1431  customer service: 1-716-637-1434
   phones staffed: m-f 8 am - 7:30 pm, sat 9-1, eastern time
general dog and cat supplies.  pet-related gift items.

Pedigrees
15 Turner Drive
Box 110
Spencerport, New York  14559-0110
716-352-1232
716-352-3202

Penguin USA
Box 120
Bergenfield, NJ 07621-0120
phone orders: 1-800-526-0275 9-4 eastern time, M-F
customer service: 1-800-331-4624 8:45-4:30 eastern time, M-F
fax: 1-800-227-9604, 201-385-6521 24 hours
telex: 13-5329 24 hours
a few pet books.

The Pet Book Shop
P.O. Box 507
Oyster Bay, New York  11771
516-922-1169

Pro Kennel Supply
P.O. Box 25226
Little Rock, AR  72221
phone: 1-800-762-7049
   phone staffed: m-sat 7am-9pm, central time
directed primarily at the hunting kennel

Ray Allen Manufacturing Co. Inc.
P.O. Box 9281
Colorado Springs, CO  80932-0281
phone:  1-800-444-0404 orders only, 1-719-633-0404 customer service
   phone staffed: 8-5 (days not listed) mountain time
working dog supplies (schutzhund, ring, etc.)

Rae's Harness Shop
1524 E. Dowling Rd.
Anchorage, Alaska  99507
(800) 594 - 2262
Sled dog supplies

R.C. Steele
1989 Transit Way
Box 910
Brockport, NY  14420-0910
phone: 1-800-872-3773 to order, 1-800-424-2205 in canada,
       1-800-272-0234 customer service
   phones staffed: m-f 8am-7:30pm, sat 9-1, eastern time
general pet supplies.  very good prices.  $50 minimum order.

Sound Dog Productions
P.O. Box 27488
Seattle, Washington  98125-2488
206-547-7877

State Line Tack, Inc.
PO Box 428
Route 121
Plaistow, NH 03865
phone: 1-800-228-9208

Archive-name: dogs-faq/misc1
Version: 1.0
Last-modified: 17 May 1992

This is one (of eight) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The eight parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu in the
directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, training, working, AKC-titles, misc1,
and references.  To obtain the files, first try ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp does not
work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
...etc, in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).

Changes are marked with |'s.

VI.  Assorted Topics.

  A.  Docking and Cropping.
  B.  Travel and International Travel.
  C.  Fleas and Ticks.
  D.  Removing Odors and Stains.
  E.  Owner Allergies.
  F.  A New Baby.
  G.  Breeding.
  H.  Facts and Opinions about Neutering.
  I.  Finding a Home for a Dog.
  J.  Record Keeping.
  K.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.
  L.  Pet Doors.
  M.  Pet Insurance.
  N.  Pet Identification and Theft.



A.  Docking and Cropping.

Docking is the practice of removing a dog's tail.  Cropping is the
removal of a good portion of its ears so that they stand up.
Typically, these procedures are done when the dog is very young,
several weeks of age.

The practices have their origin hundreds of years ago when dogs were
cropped and docked to prevent injury to those extremities.  Ears can
be vulnerable in fights, tails can be vulnerable to underbrush when
hunting.  For certain breeds, docking and cropping is required by the
breed standard.  The exception is in countries that outlaw the
practice, such as the United Kingdom and Australia.

Today, there is little practical use for docking and cropping a dog.
There are movements to change breed standards to reflect this,
although some people feel very strongly the other way.

There is at least one practical reason to have some hunting dogs'
tails docked.  A hunter once described his experiences with a hunting
dog he decided not to dock -- and was horrified several years later
with the sores that the dog would pick up on hunting trips.  He then
had the tail docked, but of course the procedure is more painful to an
adult dog.  If your dog does not hunt, this is moot.


B.  Travel and International Travel.

1.  Car

Most dogs love travelling in the car.  Some are fearful, others are
prone to carsickness.  Any dog travelling in a car should be
restrained in some manner, both for its safety and yours.  Dogs can
travel in carriers, probably the best option.  There are available
barriers which can keep your dog in the back seat (this works
especially well with station wagon type of cars).  There are
restraining leashes available.  Riding in the back of a truck is just
asking for trouble, as the dog will almost always be killed if it is
thrown from the truck in even a minor accident.  There are also
restraining leashes for dogs in open pick-up truck beds.  Some states
have laws against dogs riding in the back of a pick-up.

1.1. Car sickness, fear

Try just sitting in the back seat and just talking and playing with
your dog, assure it over a few of these sitting-in sessions that there
is nothing to be afraid of.  Then do a couple of slow trips, just
around the block, no more. Then to the local park or beach, so your
dog starts to get the idea that car trips lead to "fun" places too.
Finally, try slowing down some more for those corners since side to
side movements in a car are the most common cause of motion sickness.
Opening a window or turning on the car fan may help some dogs.

Do *not* sympathize with the dog or try to soothe it.  While
car-sickness isn't quite the same as being afraid of riding in the
car, it could conceivably be brought on by such a fear.  If that is
the case, doing *anything* that the pup can possibly interpret as
praise can be counterproductive.  It will teach it that this fear is
the desired behavior.  If the car sickness if brought on by such fear
and it is, inadavertantly, taught that the fear is desired behavior,
the car sickness will continue.

2.  Plane

The May - June, 1990 issue of Golden Retriever News (published by the
Golden Retriever Club of America) had an article on airline
transportation of dogs.  Many of the comments should be common sense
-- such as having the proper crates and bedding, choosing non-stop
flights where possible, allowing plenty of check-in time, etc.  The
article goes on to say that the ratings are based on serious problems
reported between July 1988 and July 1989, and that air travel is
generally safe for animals, with a mortality rate of less than one
tenth of one percent.

One pet is allowed in each cabin.  Thus, if there is one First Class,
one Business class and one Tourist class cabin, three pets are
allowed.  This can be modified if the pets are house mates - two
people who are traveling with their two pets, then the pets can be in
the same cabin.  A cabin is a section that can be closed off from view
from the other sections either with a door or a curtain.

As for specific airlines: USAir has one of the best reputations in
shipping animals.  They routinely check up on the animals, and ask the
owners to call a specific number after each landing the plane makes to
contact an individual who can check on the animals.  Continental has
the worst reputation, having had several dogs die in their planes.  A
particularly horrible incident in the summer of 1991 involved five
samoyeds, three of whom died of heat prostration despite the pleas of
the passengers and owners, who could hear the dogs barking in the
cargo area.  Other airlines have varying reputations.  In general a
direct flight is safest.

There is a pamphlet from Northwest Airlines called "Priority Pet."  It
explains Northwest's methods of pet transport --- it was encouraging
to see an airline show explicit concern for this issue.  Northwest
asks owners to attach two bowls and a supply of food to the outside of
the kennel in order that the animal may be fed and watered (presumably
by Northwest personnel).  The caveats and conditions are enlightening
to read.

3.  Kennels

Look around for a good one.  Experiences can be good or awful
depending on the kennel.

One resource: The American Boarding Kennel Association (ABKA) is based
in Colorado Springs.  You can use this organization to help you choose
a kennel.  If you write to them (or call them), they will send you a
small packet of information.  One part is a booklet on how to choose a
kennel, and another part is a list of all ABKA accredited kennels
around the country.

An ABKA kennel is supposed to meet a minimum set of criterion that is
spelled out in their literature.  The things they suggest you look for
and questions to ask involve a lot of common sense stuff, but there
are good suggestions you might not think of.

4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A
Colorado Springs, CO  80915
719-591-1113

4.  Pet Sitting Services.

In some cases, you can find friends or neighbors willing to take care
of your pets while you are gone.  If you are using a professional
service as opposed to a friend or relative, try to find one that's not
just one person doing it but is a business that has several people
working for them.  When it's a business with people working for them
the owners of the business are more likely to expect their people to
do a good job and be responsive to people complaining about poor
service.  Watch out for the business changing hands.

Check with the National Association of Pet Sitters.  Members must sign
a code of ethics and can be removed if there are complaints.  They can
give you a list of pet sitters in your area.  Their address is 632
Holly Ave, Winston Salem, NC 27101 and phone (919) 723-PETS.  Their
brochure includes their code of ethics, and includes a list of what to
look for in a reputable pet sitter; included in list below.

Ask the company if they're bonded or insured.  See if they'll send
someone more than once a day.  Ask for references from previous and
current customers.  Some will bring the paper and mail in and help
make the place look "occupied;" that's a plus.

Check the potential sitter for the following:

1.  Does the pet sitter furnish written literature describing services
    and stating fees?
2.  Does the pet sitter visit the home beforehand to meet with the
    client and pet to obtain detailed information?
3.  Does the sitter arrive on time?
4.  Does the sitter get along with your pet?  Does the sitter exhibit
    confidence and ease with your pets?
5.  Is the pet sitter courteous, interested, and well informed?
6.  Does the sitter have written references?
7.  Is the sitter willing to give you names and numbers of former
    clients for references?
8.  Does the pet sitter have a service contract which spells out
    services the pet sitter will provide and fees for doing so?
9.  Are the company and/or sitter in good standing with the Better
    Business Bureau?
10. Does the pet sitter have regular office hours or return customer
    inquiries promptly?
11. Is the sitter recommended by someone you trust - either your vet,
    trainer, dog show buddies, etc?
12. Does the pet sitter have a veterinarian on call for emergency
    services?
13. What contingency plan for pet care does the pet sitter have in the
    event of inclement weather or personal illness?
14. Does the company have a training program for their sitters?
15. How does the pet-sitting service recruit and screen applicants?
    Are there any prerequisites for employment?
16. Does the pet sitter or pet-sitting service telephone to determine
    if the client has returned home as scheduled or require that the
    client notify the company or pet sitter of their arrival home?
17. Does the pet sitter or company provide a rating form for customer
    feedback and evaluation of pet-sitting services?
18. Does the pet-sitting service have an established system for
    handling customer complaints?
19. When does the sitter get paid?  Before or after you come back?
    A deposit up front and the rest later?

Try to find word of mouth recommendations.  You might try calling
several vets in your area to see if they have any recommendations.
Check with the local SPCA and with Better Business Bureau for any
specific complaints lodged with a particular business.

5.  International Travel.

A partial list: most states require a health certificate and proof of
rabies vaccination for pets crossing state lines.  Most airlines will
require this regardless.  Hawaii and Britain have a 6 month quarantine
for all pets entering either island (the chunnel may change Britain's
policy in a few years).  Canada has a 4 month quarantine [I think?],
except from the US, where rabies vaccination documentation is
sufficient.  Scandinavian countries have a three month quarantine,
with exceptions for animals from rabies-free countries such as Britain
and Australia.

Australia accepts animals only from rabies-free countries and even
then these animals have a six month quarantine; animals from other
countries may not enter at all.  Other sources say that animals from
other countries *can* enter (must be quarantined, of course); there
are different quarantine lengths for different countries: Britain is 6
months, others were 9 months, some countries are not listed at all.
There is unrestricted travel between Australia and New Zealand
provided the animals have been in New Zealand for at least six months.


C.  Fleas and Ticks.

1.  Fleas

Fleas can enter the home in many ways, even if your pet is not allowed
outside or only rarely.  Since fleas can be carriers for worms and
diseases, keeping your pet flea-free keeps it healthy.

To check if your pet has fleas, part its hair and look for:

  * Small bits of brown "dust," attached to the fur itself.  The fleas
    excrete digested blood.  See if the dust dissolves into a red
    liquid upon contact with a wet paper towel.

  * Skin Irritation: flea bites or scratching and biting may leave
    red, irritated skin, and even bald patches in bad cases.

  * Small, fast moving brown shapes are fleas.

If you find bits of dried blood in its ears, that's ear mites and the
vet should be consulted.

Adult fleas live on your pet and leave to lay their eggs.  Favorite
places to lay eggs are outdoors, dustbunnies, rugs, bedding, etc.  You
can do a lot to eliminate fleas by vacuuming and cleaning your pet's
sleeping area regularly.

There are several ways to kill or discourage fleas. Some are synthetic
chemicals and some are considered "natural", and both work to some
degree.  Also, some methods are applicable for indoor pets, but
useless for indoor/outdoor pets.

a)  Natural methods

Fleas dislike several types of natural chemicals.

  * You can buy cedar shampoo, cedar oil and cedar-filled sleeping mats.

  * Let outdoor pets sleep on a well-used horse blanket.

  * Fleas love dry skin: giving your pet Linatone and avoiding
    shampooing prevents dry skin.

  * Put pennyroyal (the herb) leaves about the house or get a bottle of
    the oil. You can put the oil on your animal, on its collar and in
    its bed.

  * Garlic and Brewer's Yeast: Feed it in small doses to your pet and
    and the resultant body odor may repel fleas.

b) Spraying

You can spray indoors and/or outdoors.  There are a number of
commercial foggers and other devices which you set off in your home.
Generally, you and anything live will have to vacate for a period of
time.  This can be effective; it depends on if the chemicals involved
will kill fleas, flea larvae, or both.  Your vet will be a good source
of information on effective brands, or you can have this done
professionally.

You can use Dursban for ridding the yard of fleas.  Home Depot will
have the generic stuff.  Use one of those adjustable-mixture lawn
sprayers that attaches to the garden hose.  Spray EVERYWHERE there
might be fleas; lawn, ivy, gravel, etc.  Spray generously.  Keep any
pets off of treated areas for about a day.  Take a good, soapy shower
when the yard is finished. [The person recommending this has used it
for years and found no adverse effects as yet.]

There is also Precor(tm), a methoprene insect hormone that interrupts
the life cycle of fleas by preventing flea larvae from maturing.  It
is not a poison, even to fleas, but they cannot reproduce.  It's used
as an environmental spray either by itself (in which case it will take
several weeks to show much effect) or combined with adult pesticides
(like pyrethrins) for a quick wipeout.  Because it is a hormone, fleas
will not become resistant to its effects (it would be like humans
becoming resistant to estrogen and testosterone).

Also, when choosing a fogger, note that the directions call for
one can per X no. of UNOBSTRUCTED square feet.  In practice, that
means one can per major room.  You can increase the effectiveness of
the spread of the fogger by setting up fans to move the air around
before you trigger the foggers.  If you have a forced-air furnace,
turning the thermostat switch to "on" or "fan" instead of "auto"
will help circulate the pesticide throughout the house.

c)  Dipping

For an immediate flea problem, you can bath your pet with a
flea-killing substance to get rid of the fleas on its body.  But
remember, such "dips" usually sting when applied to open irritations.
Animals have been known to bite, climb up your arm, and even urinate
all over themselves, so be prepared!  Remember that dipping alone will
not solve the more general problem of the flea infestation.

d) Combing

Flea combs with fine teeth are commercially available that snag fleas
when used.  It is helpful to have a small dish of ammonia-laced water
to kill the fleas on the comb rather than trying to nail each one by
hand.

This by itself will never rid your pet from fleas.  It is a useful
way to keep an eye on the number of fleas, and removes them from your
pet's body, but does not address the underlying problem.

e) Powders

Flea powders are handy, but there are many types and some are rather
poisonous.  A type recommended by vet schools is called SEVIN, and is
is found in a good number of insecticides (SEVIN is the active
ingredient in the powder, usually 5% SEVIN per volume).  Most
insecticide companies produce a SEVIN product.  It's usually in the
gardening section as a garden insecticide and it says on the label
that you can use it on pets.  It is harmful to your pet in higher
concentrations, so check the percentage and the label for pet use.
Powder your pet, its bedding, under furniture cushions, and in the
vacuum cleaner bag.  Do not let your pet ingest flea powder of any
sort.

f) Borax and salt

Borax: There is a chemical called *borax* present in a variety of
household items.  Sprinkling 20 Mule Team Borax (*not* the hand soap
Boraxo; the soap added to can be toxic to your pet) or salt on the
carpet and upholstery will dry out the deposited flea larvae.  The
procedure is to vacuum the house, sprinkle borax or salt using a sieve
on carpet and upholstery (and under the pillows, under the furniture);
walk around a bit or sweep with a broom to settle the borax into the
carpet and then vacuum lightly.  Some people leave it on for a few
days before vacumming.  Don't let your animals eat the stuff (though a
very small amount won't hurt them).  If you use borax, you may need to
adjust for this when cleaning your carpets.

g)  Vacuum

Put flea powder in the vacuum cleaner bag to kill any fleas that you
vacuum up, otherwise they will crawl back out.  Moth balls can also be
used, but they are pretty toxic.

h)  Flea collars

See Consumer Reports, September 1991.  Flea collars aren't
effective, may even be bad for your pet's health.  Some of the herbal
ones smell nice and that's about it.

i)  Newborn animals

Very young animals can die from overinfestation of fleas.  They are
small enough that they can become dangerously anemic within hours, and
are young enough that they will be poisoned by dipping chemicals.
Consult your vet immediately if you have a less than 8-10 week old
kitten or puppy with a bad case of the fleas.

Symptoms of anemia: if flea-infested baby animals become lethargic,
moving more slowly, you have *only hours* before they die.  Take them
to the vet *now*.

If they do not yet appear anemic, use a flea comb on them.  You should
take steps to prevent infestation by keeping the mother clear of
fleas, and regularly (at least every other day) changing and
laundering the bedding.

j)  Conclusion

In general, you will have to use a combination of some of the
approaches above.  You will also want to launder any bedding and other
launderable items to rid them of fleas at the same time.  If you comb
your pet regularly, you will be able to spot an incipient increase of
fleas and make preemptive strikes.

2.  Ticks

Ticks are small rounded insects that cling to one spot and do not
move.  They have inserted their head under the skin and are engorging
themselves on the blood.  Diseases carried by ticks means that you
should have yourself or your pets checked after you find ticks.

When you find a tick, use tweezers to pick up the body and pull
s-l-o-w-l-y and gently, and the mouthparts will release.  Ticks carry
a lot of rickettsial diseases, including Lyme disease and Rocky
Mountain Spotted Fever, so you should wash your hands thoroughly with
soap after handling a tick.

If you have left the head of the tick in your pet's skin, chances are
there will be an infection or an abscess in a week or so.  Try
disinfecting the area thoroughly with 70% alcohol (takes about 5
minutes for alcohol to sterilize an area).  Ethyl alcohol is less
toxic than rubbing alcohol; vodka or any high-proof liquor will work.
Then apply a combination antibiotic ointment.  If an infection occurs
anyway, take your pet in to the vet to have it drained.

To dispose of the tick, drop it into alcohol to kill it, then dispose
of it.  Flushing them down the toilet WILL NOT KILL THEM.

Adult ticks can remain on deer and other mammals through the fall
and winter.  If you spend a lot of time outdoors during this period,
be sure to check yourself, your family and your pets daily for ticks.
If you hunt or trap, check areas where you cache your game for ticks
that may have fallen off during handling.

If you have heavy infestations of ticks in your area, spraying your
backyard against ticks may be a good idea, especially if your pet is
indoor/outdoors.


D.  Removing Odors and Stains.

1.  Urine

Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800
number); Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Resolve (carpet,
perhaps other items); Odor-Mute Enzyme Formula by the Ryter Corp.
These products use enzymes to break down the odor causing compounds in
urine and feces, and are quite effective.

Pouring club soda over the spot is often recommended for removing
odors; it may have a similar enzymatic reaction as the above products
(but this is speculation).

If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.

On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar
and no detergent, then wash again as usual.

Most of the above products will also work to remove stains from the
carpet, and sometimes from clothing.  Spot Shot is very good with
carpet stains (but not odors).  You should remove odors first and then
deal with the stain, otherwise the chemicals for removing stains
may make the odor permanent or otherwise interfere with the enzymes
for odor removal.

2.  Skunks

The important thing is to get the skunk oil off a quickly as possible
and don't let the dog spread the oil around.  Also, the skunk smell
seems to be easier to get rid of the sooner the dog is washed.

To get rid of the smell - try vinegar diluted with water.  Douches
work (they contain vinegar), but the perfumes may irritate some dogs'
skin.  Soap the skunked areas, then apply the vinegar - let it sit a
little while, and then soap again.  Don't get the vinegar in the dog's
eyes.  Try also: diluted lemon juice and a dishwashing detergent to
cut the grease.

There is a product available called SKUNK OFF.

If your dog's been thoroughly sprayed, don't expect to get all the
smell out but what smell is left will go away faster.


E.  Owner Allergies.

You can go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with
specific allergies.  This can be expensive, but worth it, especially
if you have other allergies as well.  They'll test you for the things
you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you
develop an appropriate immunity to them.

Different breeds may work for different people who have allergy
problems.  It depends on exactly what it is about dogs that causes the
problem.

Some people do well with Basenjis and Miniature Pincers and other dogs
with little or no coat.  Others do well with poodles and schnauzers
and airedales who have a different type of coat.  A lot of people do
well with Shih Tzus and Lhasa Apsos who, while very hairy, are
supposed to have hair much more like human hair.

Every dog lover with allergy problems needs to spend some time with
different breeds to find the one that doesn't aggravate the problem.
In many cases, bathing the dog frequently, cleaning the bedding,
vacumming and closing off your bedroom will help alleviate allergy
problems.

There is also a spray available that you put on the dog that is
supposed to reduce the amount of allergens they shed called Allerpet/D
Most pet stores carry the stuff, and the bottle has an 800 number you
can call for more information.


F.  A New Baby.

Introduce the dog to all the new things you get for a new baby: let it
investigate the crib, baby clothes and that sort of thing.  Dogs
generally seem to know that something is up, especially as the woman
gets closer to her time.

After the baby is born, but before you bring it home, see if you can
take something home for the dog to smell, like a blanket or an
undershirt the baby had on.  Let the dog smell it thoroughly.

When the baby comes home, try to hold everything else normal, feeding
time, any morning walks, the like.  When you bring the baby in, put
the dog on a down-stay and introduce the dog to the baby.  Have one of
the parents hold the baby in their lap and let the dog sniff the baby.
Let it lick the baby if you're up to that, but do NOT let the dog
nuzzle (push with its nose) or paw at the baby.  It is important to
introduce the dog to the baby.  This makes it clear to the dog that
the baby is a new member of the pack.  If you exclude the dog from the
baby, it may try to attack this "non-member" to protect its pack.

Include the dog in the daily routine with the baby.  Give it the same,
if not a little more, amount of attention it always got.  You do not
want it to feel like it has been displaced or ignored in favor of the
baby.


G.  Breeding.

There are several things you need to consider before breeding your
dog, mostly having to do with health and temperament checks.  The two
biggest problems with dogs are eye disorders (which are problems in
all breeds) and hip dysplasia (a problem in many larger breeds).
Before breeding your dog you need to rule out problems in these areas
or you may bring into the world a litter of blind or crippled puppies.

This section is here to underscore the seriousness of breeding dogs.
Please do NOT breed your dog "for the money" or "to see the wonders of
birth and life" or some similar nonsense.  Breeding is expensive, and
good breeders rarely make money on their dogs.  The "wonders of birth
and life" can turn tragically if any die; if the bitch has her puppies
at the vet, the kids certainly won't see it.

Responsible breeding is a major undertaking, and seriously requires a
good amount of research to understand what you are getting into.  You
need to be up on genetics, especially for your breed,  you need to be
familiar, not only with the breed standard, but its faults and its
likely medical problems.  You need to be able to detect a variety of
problems that can arise during pregnancy and during the pups first few
weeks.  You should find yourself a mentor, a person who has already
been breeding for a while and who can give you good advice.

Breeding is in no way a profitable activity, unless you completely cut
out all concern for the health of the dam and puppies -- in which case
you certainly are not improving the dogs in any way and are doing your
customers no favor by passing along inferior pups.

1.  Medical problems (genetic)

Eye problems include PRA, which doesn't usually show up until the dog
is 4 years old, cataracts, and retinal dysplasia.  These are
hereditary conditions and in some cases cause blindness.  In the case
of PRA, the pedigree needs to be studied, and if there are any
carriers of the disease on her pedigree, you must choose a stud dog
whose pedigree is free of any problems.  PRA is a recessive gene, so
in order to be affected the puppy needs to get a gene from each
parent.  It's a devastating disease in that it causes total blindness.

Hip problems are more likely.  There is a hip certification process
that breeders adhere to, and have their dogs certified free of the
disease by OFA.  OFA will not certify a dog until that dog is 2 years
old so it's best to wait until that age to certify and then breed if
all is well.  They grade the hips as a passing grade of Excellent,
Good, or Fair, or a non-passing grade (meaning DO NOT BREED this dog)
of Borderline, Mild, Moderate, or Severe hip dysplasia.  Even if your
dog's parents are OFA certified you need to certify its hips as well.
In a breeding of OFA certified parents, you will get a range in the
quality of the dogs' hips.  Even the worst aren't likely to show any
symptoms of hip dysplasia, at least not as young dogs, but if you
breed two borderline dogs together you may get a litter of crippled
dogs.

Classic hip dysplasia starts at 4-6 months when the puppy starts
limping and having trouble getting up and sitting down.  You take the
puppy to the vet and have $100 in tests and xrays done to find out the
dog has hip dysplasia.  You may be referred to specialists to
determine whether there is anything that can be done.  Sometimes they
can do hip replacement surgery at $1500/hip, sometimes they can't and
your only choice is to get the dog put to sleep.  This to stress the
importance of getting the proper health clearances on your dog before
you breed, or you may do the puppies a serious injustice.

Your veterinarian or an experienced breeder can steer you to a good
vet to take hip xrays to submit to OFA, and a veterinary
ophthalmologist who can check your dog's eyes for you.  Never forget
that both the bitch AND the dog must go through all these checks
before breeding.

Other breeds have a tendency toward other specific medical problems
(hip and eye are simply the most common): you need to know what is
prone in your breed and take steps to minimize and eliminate it.

2.  Other medical problems

You must make sure the bitch and the stud both are free from
brucellosis before breeding them.  Brucellosis causes eventual
sterility in both sexes (sometimes non-obviously)and can cause a
litter of puppies to be aborted or die shortly after birth.  In
addition, brucellosis is transmissible to humans via saliva and thus is
a major health problems as it can disrupt human immune system and also
cause sterility.  Between dogs, it is most commonly passed in sexual
intercourse, although an entire kennel can be infected through contact
with secretions.  (See Health Care Issues for more detail.)

3.  Temperament

Never breed any animal that shows temperament problems.  In
particular, this has been the cause of the degeneration of many
breed's general temperament: Dobermann Pinschers, Rottweilers, and so
on.  If your animal is untrustworthy around people, overly aggressive
to people, excitable, or is a fear-biter, do not breed it.  If it is
excessively shy or submissive, don't breed it.  Look for happy,
spirited and obedient animals.

4.  Selecting the stud or bitch

You must carefully consider each dog's pedigree for compatibility.
Try to select strengths to offset weaknesses.  Do not allow your bitch
to be bred to an unsuitable dog, and conversely, be picky about the
bitches you allow your dog to breed.  This phase alone requires
considerable research to find a suitable candidate.  Be honest with
yourself.  If your dog is not a good representation of its breed, do
not let it reproduce.  It is much easier to improve a few faults than
to try and get excellent pups with a mediocre dog.  Check the breed
standard for your dog and ask a knowledgeable person for their
evaluation of your dog.

5.  Overbreeding

Ideally, a bitch should only be bred every other year.  However, even
at maximum, you want to allow at least one unbred season between
breedings.  This allows your bitch to rest and regain her strength.
If you *are* breeding a bitch this frequently or more, why?  There are
too many puppies as it is.  The health of both your bitch and your
puppies are compromised with too many pregnancies.

6.  Care of the pregnant bitch

You should make sure the bitch is up-to-date on all her vaccinations,
medications, and shots before she is bred.

She will require special food to help with the developing fetuses.
In particular, a dam that does not get supplementary food during the
last three weeks or so will have weaker puppies that are more likely
to die shortly thereafter.

She should be under the care of a vet for any related problems.  Dogs
can have miscarriages.  Illnesses, diseases, or infestations that the
bitch picks up during her pregnancy can affect the puppies.
Difficulties during whelping are entirely possible, and the rule for
some breeds.  You must be prepared to get her to the vet quickly in an
emergency.  Puppies also like to be born around oh-dark-thirty.  The
joy of birth can easily turn into tragedy if the bitch or any of the
puppies die -- and this is always a very real possibility.

There are instances of "mummy puppies" where you have a puppy whose
development went awry, but it was not aborted.  Instead, it dries and
shrivels up, and when born, looks like a mummified puppy, blackened
and ready to rot.  Overbreeding and inadequate care are usually the
causes.  It is quite likely that the dam will come down with an
infected uterus after such a puppy.

Other congenital (but not genetic) defects can include: no anus
(surgery required), cleft palates and hare lips (surgery needed).

7.  Caring for the puppies

You will have to make sure that they stay healthy.  They will need
worming.  If the mother dies, you will have to nurse them -- this is a
round-the-clock (every three hours) exhausting effort -- and you must
take even more precautions as the puppies may be deprived of the
immunizing effects of the mother's initial milk.  There are a variety
of problems that can affect puppies: some of which you can head off
with proper preventive care, you need to learn to recognize these.
You must begin initial socialization to help ensure good temperaments.
All in all, puppies are intensive, time consuming little creatures.

8.  Placing the puppies

After the puppies are born, if not before, you must consider placing
your puppies.  Time and time again, people breed a litter because
friends and family want one of their dog's puppies -- and then none of
them will take one.

Are you prepared to do some legwork to find GOOD homes for them, not
just hand them off to the first person who comes by?  You are aware
that you won't be able to sell all of your puppies locally, aren't
you?  What assurances do you have that the puppies will not wind up
filling animal shelters, facing death because their parents were
thoughtlessly bred?  Suppose you wind up keeping more of the litter
than you intended to?  Can you keep the extra puppies?


H.  Facts and Opinions about Neutering.

Remember, "neutering" can refer both to spaying bitches or castrating
dogs.  An "intact" bitch or dog is one that has not been neutered.

1.  Practical reasons for keeping your dog intact

  * Conformation showing requires dogs and bitches to be intact.
  * Breeding stock (obviously) must remain intact

2.  Practical reasons for neutering your dog

  * Not a show-quality or breeding-quality dog.
  * It is a working dog (such as Seeing Eye or Guide dog) and must
    not be distracted by the opposite sex.
  * Medical and health benefits.
  * Its breeding days are over.

3.  Definite myths about neutering

"My bitch will become fat and lazy if I spay her."  Not true.  If you
hold to the same exercise and feeding schedule after surgery that you
did before surgery, her weight and activity will not change except as
a normal function of aging.  Bitches that become lazy after spaying do
so because of YOUR expectations: you take her out less because you
think she's lazier, and so around and around it goes.  Remember, too,
that the age at which many bitches are spayed (6-8 months) is also the
age at which they begin to settle down from puppyhood into adulthood.
Studies done on early neutering (at 8-10 weeks) show that such puppies
remain on par behaviorally with their unneutered counterparts.  If
anything, they are often *more* active than their unneutered
counterparts.

"I want her to have one litter before spaying because that will
improve her personality."  This is not true.  Clinical studies show no
permanent changes occur as a result of pregnancy.  Behavioral changes
that do occur are an effect of hormonal levels and lactation and are
strictly temporary.  If your behavior toward her does not change from
before her pregnancy, her behavior will not change, either.

4.  Ethical considerations over neutering

4.1. What is your goal with neutering your dog or leaving it intact?

Unless you know what you want to do with your dog, it may be difficult
to make the decision to neuter.  You must take into account how you
will prevent unwanted breeding so long as your animal is intact.  For
example, you must not let it roam.  You must have it under control at
all times.

Neutering your dog will not solve behavioral problems.  Solving
behavioral problems is a matter of training.  Both intact and
neutered animals, properly trained, make fine housepets.

Neutering your dog does guarantee that you will have no unwanted
puppies.  It does guarantee that *certain behaviors* related to
reproduction will be eliminated.  This includes dog interest in the
heat-scent, and bitch agitation during heat.  It eliminates certain
physical manifestations in the bitch, such as discharge from the
vulva.  It reduces the incidence of urine marking, mounting, and
intermale aggression in male dogs.  Interestingly enough, the *age* at
which an animal is neutered does not affect the likelihood that
neutering will have an impact on a particular behaviors.  *Experience*
seems to play more of a role in determining which behaviors are
retained.  That is, if habits have been established, neutering is not
likely to alter them.

Behavior patterns common to both males and females, such as protective
barking, playfulness, and attention-seeking are not affected by
neutering.  No basic personality or behavior changes occur as a result
of neutering, except that undesirable male behaviors may be reduced
or eliminated.

Early neutering (at 8-10 weeks) does not appear to have adverse
affects on dogs.  In fact, they are often more active than their
intact counterparts, and they grow a little bit larger than their
intact counterparts.

It is possible to sterilize dogs without neutering.  This means
severing the vas deferens in the dog and the fallopian tubes in the
bitches.  There is no change in behavior because the hormones have not
been altered: the dogs are still interested in bitches and the bitches
will still go through heat.  However, they will be sterile.  You may
have to look hard to find a vet that will do this, as it is uncommon.

If you intend to breed, the decision is easy.  If you are putting your
dog to other work, you may be worried about negative or positive
behavioral changes from neutering in your dog affecting its work.  If
you simply have a pet you do not wish to breed, neutering is entirely
appropriate.

4.2.  What are the medical advantages/dangers of spaying and neutering?

Medical advantages:

Your bitch is no longer subject to reproductive cancers, such as
mammary cancer (the most common tumor of the sexually intact bitch).
Bitches spayed prior to their first estrus have about 0.5 percent risk
of developing mammary cancer.  If spaying is delayed for one to two
heat periods, the chance of developing a tumor jumps 8-26 percent.
Bitches spayed later than this remain at the same level of risk, 8-26
percent.  The incidence of pyometra is eliminated in spayed bitches.
Pyometra is a common disease of intact bitches, particularly in
bitches over 6 years of age, although it can occur at any age.

Your dog is less at risk from prostate disease and testicular cancer,
both of which can be life-threatening.  Even non-malignant growths are
a threat because the growth can cause infection that can eventually
kill your dog.

Medical disadvantages:

General anesthesia is a risk to any dog.  A small percentage of spayed
bitches may develop estrogen imbalances in later life that causes
incontinence (or rather, "leaking"), which is easily controlled with
dosages of estrogen.  There are no medical disadvantages (other than
anesthetic risk) to male dogs.

4.3.  What are the psychological effects on your dog?

There is wide disagreement over this, but there are various relevant
facts to note.

First, neutered dogs are no longer concerned with reproduction.  This
is a psychological effect, but the extent of it is confined to its
behavior with respect to heat.

The argument is often over whether or not neutered dogs remain
"aggressive."  In particular, guard dogs and working dogs are often
thought to lose something by neutering.  This is counterable with
specific examples: e.g., Seeing Eye dogs are always neutered and they
are fine, working dogs.  There are many neutered animals that are
dominant over intact animals.  For each claim made about the effect of
neutering an animal, a counter-example can be cited.  This means that
the effect of neutering is largely dependent on the individual dog.
And, most likely, because dogs are so attuned to their owners,
dependent on the owner.  Dogs are very good at picking up
expectations: if you *expect* your dog to mellow after neutering, it
probably will, whether or not the neutering was actually responsible
for it.

The question also arises over whether dogs "miss" sex or not.  Insofar
as neutered animals never display interest in sex afterwards, the
argument is fairly strong that dogs do not miss their sexual
capability.  "Humping" is a dominance related behavior that any alpha
dog, of either sex, intact or neutered, will engage in.

4.4.  What are the ethical issues?

There is a good deal of controversy over the practice of neutering
animals.  Please note that some viewpoints are culturally determined:
for example, many countries in Europe, especially Scandinavian ones,
do not have any sort of pet population problem; whereas in the US,
millions of dogs are put to sleep annually because of uncontrolled and
thoughtless reproduction.  Thus, any debate over the relative ethics
of neutering dogs must be careful to keep the background of the debate
participants in mind.  Your personal decision should also take this
factor, as well as others, in making that decisions.  In brief, here
is a summary, pro and con, of the various opinions and points that
proponents of either side make.

     PRO                               CON

Neutering prevents unwanted         You can control your own dog's
puppies.                            reproduction.

It prevents certain behaviors       You can control your dog; again,
such as roaming, being in heat      why should we take something away
going after bitches in heat.        from the dog?

There are medical benefits to       There are valid moral objections
neutering.                          to "tampering" with your dog.

Neutered dogs are content with      Who wants to have neutering possibly
established pack orders.            affect your dog's abilities.

Dominance is unrelated to intact-   But there are also cases where the
ness; many neutered animals are     dog lost some edge.
just as, if not more so, energetic
determined and aggressive as their
intact counterparts.

Many bitches perform the same       But why take the chance on an
duties as well as dogs;             individual dog's temperament
testosterone is not the magic       changing?
ingredient, training and
individual temperament is.

5.  References

Hart BL. "Effects of neutering and spaying on the behavior of dogs and
cats: Questions and answers about practical concerns," in JAVMA
1991;198:1204-1205.

Houpt KA, Coren B, Hintz et al.  "Effects of sex and reproductive
status on sucrose preference, food intake, and body weight of dogs,"
in JAVMA 1979; 174:1083-1085.

Johnson SD.  "Questions and answers on the effects of surgically
neutering dogs and cats," in JAVMA 1991;198:1206-1213.

LeRoux PH.  Thyroid status, oestradiol level, work performance and
body mass of ovariectomised bitches and bitches bearing ovarian
autotransplants in the stomach wall.  J S Afr Vet Assoc
1977;48:115-117.

Marrion, Ruth, DMV.  "New Views on Neutering," in _Purebred
Dogs/American Kennel Gazette_, April 1992 (pp50-54).

Salmeri KR, Bloomberg MS, Scruggs SL, Shille V.  Gonadectomy in
immature dogs: Effects on skeletal, physical, and behavioral
development.  JAVMA 1991;198:1193-1203.

Salmeri KR, Olson PN, Bloomberg MS.  Elective gonadectomy in dogs: A
review.  JAVMA 1991;198:1183-1191.

Thrusfield MV.  Association between urinary incontinence and spaying
bitches.  Vet Rec. 1985;116:695.


I.  Finding a Home for a Dog.

For whatever reason, you may need to find a home for a dog.  List
everywhere: newspaper, bulletin boards, computer bulletin boards,
newsletters, anywhere you like.  But limit sharply: don't adopt out if
they don't meet standards.  Minimal standards: will neuter as soon as
the dog's old enough, committed to a 20 year responsibility, they have
a home or apartment that permits pets, knowledgeable about dog health
and behavior or committed to become so.  Do charge a nominal fee, at
least US$30, unless you know the adopter well; this keeps away those
collecting animals for research.  (You can donate all or part of the
money to animal causes if you like.)

If the animal is a purebred, you might lookup the breed rescue
organization for it.


J.  Record Keeping.

1.  Breeders

AKC can't keep records straight.  This is why breeders MUST keep
official records on their dogs.  There are numerous fines listed in
the back of the Gazette for failure to maintain proper records.  If
you don't have your own record book I suggest you start one.  If you
are cited, you may have to start all over again with new dogs.  That
means that all the dogs you breed lose their AKC registrations.  The
AKC screws up a lot of things.  That's why it is so important that
breeders keep good files for their own breed club's use.

Breeders need to keep records in a book about their breeding dogs.
This includes the dog's registered name, number, sex, color, markings,
date of birth, and OFA, CERF etc. Every time that dog is bred (either
male or female) the date, the name of the other dog, the number of the
other dog, and the number of the owner of the other dog goes into it.
When the puppies are born, the number of puppies, sexes, colors,
markings, date of birth and litter number is added.  The breeder's
name(s) is also included.  On the litter registration form, the
information is reprinted to get the individual registration forms.

When the puppies are placed in a home, the new owner's name, address
and phone number go into the proper places.  (You can order these
books from the AKC -- they are called "Dog Ownership and Breeding
Record" books and they cost about $5 -- but they have enough pages for
many dogs.)

2.  Titles

For titles and points, keep a small *bound* notebook (so that the
question never comes up whether pages have been added or removed) to
record the judge's name, the number of dogs in the classes, the number
of points, the date, the show, and the club sponsoring the show.
Record obedience trials the same way.  You may want to have a folder
in which to keep all ribbons and copies of certificates and pedigrees
along with a few pictures of the dog.  You just need to have a record
of your own -- like your check book -- to make sure someone doesn't
goof up.  Two records are better than one!

3.  Working dogs

Dogs that work: e.g., Search and Rescue dogs, Police dogs, Disaster
dogs, any that work in potentially liable situations or do work that
may be challenged in court should have an ongoing record of their
training and of actual cases.  Note date and time, individuals
involved in the training, the purpose of the training, how the
training session was set up, how the dog did, and where it needs to
improve.  For an actual case, note all the specifics involved: who you
talked to, where you got the scent article or other applicable
information from, who was found/rescued/attacked, etc.  If you can, go
back and take pictures of the trail followed or other useful sites.
Keep training and actual case records separate.

If, for example, an SAR dog's identification of a felon comes into
question, that record may prove the difference as to whether the
evidence is ruled admissible or not.  In contrast to the above for
titles, keep training and case records in a loose-leaf binding, so
that only the record pertinent to the case need be forwarded to the
lawyers.

4.  Your personal enjoyment

Anyone training a dog may find it useful and interesting to keep a log
of their dog's progress in training.  In particular, it might help you
uncover patterns unique to your dog, or suggest other ways to approach
training.


K.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.

1.  Wolves

Wolves are very different from canines, but they do share a common
ancestry.  Wolves can be fascinating to study -- and observation of
wolves' social structure and behavior shed much insight into canine
behavior.

Mech, L. David. _The Wolf_.  University of Minnesota Press, 1970.
384 pgs Softcover.  ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
  Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology.
  David Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly
  informative and well written book.

Lopez, Barry H. _Of Wolves and Men_.  Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.
308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
  Description of wolves and their relationship with humans.  Not
  really a technical discussion of wolves like the first reference.

The Wolf Society of Great Britain produces the flyer "The Howler."
Prospect House
Charlton
Kilmersdon. Bath. BA3 5TN


2.  Wolf-Hybrids

**********************************************************************
Wolf-hybrids make extremely poor pets, and you *should* *not* consider
getting one.  What follows is for informational purposes only.
**********************************************************************

The very first problem to be considered is knowing what the actual
percentage of wolf is in the hybrid.  Price and certainly behavior is
strongly affected by that percentage, but there is no way to be sure
of what you are getting. Apparently, the only WH's that work out well
are the ones that act very, very dog-like.  Although there are
exceptions, most WH's do NOT act like domesticated dogs.

Dogs are the result of thousands of years of genetic selection for
those attributes that are desired by man.  The wolf, on the other
hand, has been selected to be intelligent, cunning and cool-headed.
Most suffer from a fear, or at least a nervousness, of being around
people and are very timid until something happens to go against their
instincts. The pack instinct is very strong. They will only obey you
if they feel you are the dominant dog in the pack, so obviously, you
have to know A LOT about wolfpacks to stay ahead of the game. Also,
hybrids don't automatically assume that the "master" will always be
the master.  If the owner goes into the enclosure and is sick,
injured, or otherwise shows weakness, the hybrid may very well test
the owner for dominance, which can take the forms of attacking or
defensive fighting.

WH's are cute as puppies, and for the first two years they will be
fine but at about 20 months or so they begin to change and you have to
stay on top of it.  Males at 24 months and the first season of heat
WILL challenge the perceived alpha (this means you!) and they do it
every heat season.  This is no mild challenge but an all out fight
between you and the dog.  Not fun and Not put down by simple commands.
Learn an alpha roll early and learn to use it well.  Females have this
problem around 30 months.

WH's should NEVER be allowed access to small children, unless they are
on a leash and strictly watched for signs of aggression.  Wolves do
not respect any one perceived lower then themselves so kids always
have to be careful around the "dog".  If a child trips and falls, or
gets knocked down by the big furry "dog", it's natural reaction is to
kick and cry.  This will trigger the predatory response from the
hybrid and can easily lead to a mauling.  You need to watch the dog
around strangers because they will back bite.

Training: Many respondents emphasized that WH's can be trained, but
NOT TRUSTED. Most obedience clubs will not even allow wolf hybrids in
classes.  Wolf Country, a breeder near Anchorage, strongly recommends
potential owners work around the animals for at least a year in order
to see if they can handle them and do want one.  Apparently they
socialize quite differently from dogs, are more intelligent but also
far different in their response to discipline.  The normal methods
used on dogs do not work at all on a hybrid which has a fair amount of
wolf in it.

Housing: YOU DO NOT (repeat NOT) PUT A HYBRID ON A CHAIN IN THE BACK
YARD!  You need to build an enclosure of at least 10000 square feet to
allow it to explore.  Also it must be fenced with at least 7' high and
an overhang.  Not only that, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a
gate to your back yard to prevent children from wandering out there,
because if you stick something into its area, it will try to pull it
through, regardless of whether it is living or just a stick.  Some of
these animals are so strong destructive that they can not be let in
the house, and will destroy any house you make for them.  There are
many areas where owning a WH is illegal.

Health: Most medicines for dogs do not work and you may have harder
times getting them over kennel cough, parvo, distemper, etc. In
Indiana it is illegal to vaccinate a wild animal (including hybrids)
and often the vaccines will not work on them.

More Information: There apparently are national societies on hybrids-
and magazines to read, although no one gave me the exact names of any
of them.  Behavior seminars are offered by Wolf Park in Battleground
IN, directed by Dr.  Erich Klinghammer. Also, a very good article on
wolf-dogs/hybrids appeared in the Friday Chicago Tribune. March 13,
1992.


L.  Pet Doors.

Some points:

1. Get one that has at least magnetic strips to hold the door shut.
In colder climates, you might want to consider a "double door", i.e,
the outer door must close before the inner one opens.  This would cut
down on the drafts.

2. Size is deceptive.  Dogs don't really need as much space as you
might think to get in and out.

3. Installation is usually very easy.  Some models fit into patio
doors and are removable.  Make sure the one you get is lockable or
blockable.  If the door is hollow-core, it is trickier, because then
you have to insert a frame in the door for the pet door to attach to.

4. The wall between your garage and house is considered a 'fire wall'
and you're not supposed to cut any holes in it.  In particular, it
could make fire insurance claims tricky.

5. Install the door in such a place as to make it impossible for
someone to push something through it to open a door or window, even if
they can't crawl through themselves.

Johnson pet doors are frequently recommended.  RC Steele stocks them.
Another source is America's Pet Door Store (1-800-826-2871).

There exist electronic pet doors that are activated by a special
collar.  Most of these are for cats, but there are models for dogs up
to 110lbs.

Some dogs need coaxing to use the door.  Prop the door open and offer
a treat from the other side.  Don't try and push your dog through.


M.  Pet Insurance.

Pet insurance plans are typically accident policies, although some
also cover routined medical expenses such as worming and shots (or even
grooming) -- the latter are generally a better deal.

Between the deductibles and allowances, you may not get very much back
on an actual claim.  In several years of rec.pets.dogs, no reader has
come back with a favorable story on claim processing.


N.  Pet Identification and Theft.

There are several steps you can take to increase the chances of your
dog being returned to you if lost, or to decrease the chances of your
dog being stolen.

1.  Pet tags

By far the most important piece of information on your pet's tag is
your telephone number, including the area code.  Everything else is
just optional.  Some people do not like to put their dog's name on the
collar, as that can make it easier for a thief to coax your dog along
knowing its name.  The choice is up to you.  Attach the tag to your
dog's collar securely.  Do not use the "S" hooks -- many tags are lost
that way.  Use the keyring type of attachment, or better yet, have the
tag riveted onto the collar.

Of course, one problem with tags is that they are easily removed.

2.  Tattooing

Get your dog tattooed.  Tattoos cannot be removed or lost.  This will
help identify your dog and get it returned to you (most animal
shelters will not destroy a tattooed dog).  It helps deter theft and
ensures that your pet will not wind up in a laboratory somewhere.
Your vet can give you pointers to someone who can tattoo your pet.  RC
Steele sells a do-it-yourself kit, worth considering if you have
multiple dogs and/or breed.

Tattooing is an excellent way to protect your pets.  In fact, there
are animal science laboratories and vet clinics around the country
that sponsor low-cost tattoo clinics and tattoo "fairs."

Get the tattoo put on the inside of your dog's thigh.  This is much
harder to remove than one placed in your pet's ear.

You must get the tattoo number registered, or it isn't very useful in
locating you.  If you use the National Dog Registry, use a number
that will not change.  (Social security numbers are good.)  There is a
one-time fee for registering the number, and you can then register
other pets with the same number -- either free, or for a lesser fee
(call them on this).

So, tattoo: NDR XXX-XX-XXXX.  Certain breed registries require dogs be
tattooed with a litter number or registration number.  So you might
also add: AKC: XXXXXXX.  That way you fit both the AKC requirement to
have permanent ID on your dogs and you only have to register your SSN
once with NDR for $35 dollars and all your dogs can have the same
number on them.

Unfortunately, tattoos can fade over time.

3.  Microchip ID

An alternative, that is used in Canada, and increasingly in the US is
an injected microchip.The microchip contains a numbering system that
is accessed by many local animal shelters & vet hospitals in the San
Francisco Bay Area.  Each microchip has a 10 digit alpha/numeric code
that is assigned to you (or your kennel) and your pet. The code is
kept on file at Info Pet (US) [what is the Canadian counterpart?] on
computer and is readily available.  Some of the information that is
kept on file are extra emergency numbers to have contacted should your
pet be impounded or taken to an animal hospital due to injury or
illness. Your vet's name & number are also included along with any
important medical info about your animal. This is important for animals
that have life threatening medical condition that need constant
treatment. With more animal shelters going to short holding times, you
may miss catching your animal at a shelter before it is put to sleep
or in some cases sold to an animal broker who most likely will resell
your pet to a research facility.

Not all shelters check for the chip, but increasing numbers are doing
so in the US.  There are no documented cases of medical problems
related to the insertion of the chip just under the skin.  Considering
that tattoos can fade over time, this is an alternative to consider.
It takes about 2 minutes to insert the chip and fill out the form.
After that, all you have to do is pay yearly dues. Info Pet may not be
active in your state yet, they have services in California and Oregon,
and most of the New England states with a few in the midwest area. You
can give them a call at 1-800-463-6738. [what are the canadian
counterparts?]

4.  Thefts

Animal thefts do happen, this is a fear of pet owners everywhere.
First of all, if your dog is missing or stolen, you have a
responsibility to report it to the police.  They may not always be
able to do anything about it, but if they get several reports, then
they can justify putting some time on it.  Don't make the mistake of
thinking that you are bothering the police!

Call the shelters, call the local vets and tell them of your loss,
they can be on the lookout for your dog.  Most vets will take a
description of your dog and contact others in the area to keep an eye
out for it.  Put up flyers in the immediate area.  If your dog has
been tattooed or micro-chipped, it may show up shortly.


----------------
This file is not copyrighted.  It is in the public domain and may
*not* be copyrighted by anyone.  Please feel free to forward copies of
this to anyone you like.  I only ask that you keep the document
intact, including the addresses below so that any recipient knows
where to query about possible updates.  Include a self addressed,
stamped envelope on postal queries.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@ics.uci.edu  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
