NUTZ & BOLTZ The following information is brought to you by: Nutz & Boltz (r). N&B is our nations ONLY consumer supported automotive newsletter. Each month we produce a 16 page newsletter that accepts NO ADVERTISING OF ANY KIND, this way we can bring you the true story... no holds barred. Dr. Dre, our publisher and host of the Nutz & Boltz radio show, has over 29 years of mechanical experience. He is a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers, and a member of the Automotive Hall of Fame. He has been helping people with their car problems over the radio for almost a decade (see partial list of stations and times below). Our purpose for creating these "help" files is to familiarize you with our name, (Soon to be a household word.) We also hope that if you enjoy this file (and the ones to follow) you will subscribe to our publication and help us help you make your car last longer and avoid the costly clutches of Mr. Ripp U. Off. This particular document is called the 100,000 mile car, it includes some common (and not-so-common) sense ways to keep your car on the road. A handy check-list of things you should do at the 100K check-point has been included. Please feel free to copy this document and share it with everyone you know, but leave ALL information intact. Yes, this means the address and phone numbers at the bottom too. If you could upload this to your favorite BBS's it would be much appreciated. ************************************************************************************ Ever notice how some people seem to have better luck owning trouble free cars? Their cars seem to get better with age, defying the process of entropy. We have prepared a series of tips that will give your car a better chance of reaching the 100K mark without major repairs. After all, just like us, older cars need special care. SERVICE: ** Use silicone spray on all the rubber weatherstripping around the doors and trunk/rear hatch. Silicone will keep the rubber from sticking to the door jamb and tearing. It will also protect against rubber- destroying ozone. ** Avoid car washes that have a spinning brushes or spinning cloth. These damage the paint and glass on your car. Sand becomes embedded in the brush and scratches your car as it passes over it. Better: "Dancing" chamois cloth-type car washes. ** Buy a cheap torque wrench and retorque your own lug nuts anytime the wheels have been removed. Mechanics usually use pneumatic tools that over-torque lug nuts, this not only makes them harder to remove, but it will also cause disk brake rotor warping. ** Have the tires rotated often, ideally every 7,500 miles or once a year, whichever comes first. Inspect the tires for uneven wear. Have the car aligned at the first signs of uneven tire wear. Get it aligned with the weight load it will normally be carrying. ** Clean bugs from the radiator area using a high-pressure garden hose nozzle. ** Run the air-conditioner or defroster every week (if so equipped) to keep the compressor seal lubricated. A dry seal will leak Freon. Replace the air-conditioner receiver-drier every 5 years or 75K miles. It contains dessicant that prevents moisture contamination of the system. ** Buy the biggest battery that will fit in your car. Bigger batteries make the starter/alternator last longer. Replace the battery 6 months before its effective life is up. Example: replace a 5 year battery in 4 1/2 years. This will prevent the charging system from running all the time, as it would have to do to keep charging an old, weak battery ** Do not degrease the engine compartment unless you use extreme care. Engines of the last decade are wired with sensors that are easily damaged by cleaning. FLUIDS: ** Replace the brake fluid every two years or 30K miles. The best way to do this is to bleed the system and refill the reservoir with fresh fluid. ** Drain and refill the radiator every two years or 30K miles. Fill the radiator with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/coolant and distilled water. Tap water will cause minerals deposits to form. ** Don't allow the battery to be serviced if it can be opened up. Garages use tap water, fill it yourself and use distilled water only. Tap water shortens battery life. FUELS: ** Filling practices are important: * Filling the tank all the way to the top is called "topping off," this causes damage to the charcoal evaporative emission canister. * Allowing the tank to run low causes moisture build-up in the tank. Moisture is very hard on delicate fuel components like injectors and carburetor jets. * Most cars have electric fuel pumps. Running low on fuel can cause premature fuel pump failure. These pumps depend on the fuel as lubrication, so try to keep the tank one-quarter full at all times. ** Try to buy fuel from very busy gas stations to insure fresh, seasonally adjusted fuel. ** Don't use fuel additives containing any or all of the following: methanol, methyl alcohol, xylene, toluene, or acetone. Some of the best are from: Redline and Amsoil. ** Unless called for, don't use premium or high-test fuel on a routine basis. Hi-test contains more octane- enhancing alcohol and is harder on rubber fuel system parts. ** Do buy a tank-full of premium grade fuel from a quality brand every fourth or fifth tank. This will give your fuel system a dose of cleaning additives found in higher concentrations in the premium grades. Note: This is unnecessary if you are using a fuel additive. ** To prevent the unwanted introduction of foreign materials, get a locking gas cap if your car is not already so equipped. FILTERS: ** Use the largest oil filter. Many applications come in small and large sizes. If space permits, use the larger filter size, or, install an add-on bypass filtering system to keep your oil analytically clean. ** Use a high-quality oil filter. In general, factory filters are consistently very good. Here is a list of some of the best aftermarket filters: Group 7, Purolator, AC, Hastings, Amsoil. ** Replace the air filter element with an oil-wetted gauze or foam air filter. Best brands: Amsoil and K&D. ** Change the fuel filter every year or 10K miles, whichever comes last. ** Install a power steering filter whenever the system is opened for other work. ** Install a magnet on the crankcase drain plug to help catch metal particulate contamination. LUBRICATION: ** Use the best oil classification. API designation "SG" is currently the best. SAE classification 10W-30 is universally the best choice. Only use 5W-30 when the air temperature is below 80 degrees F. ** Change the oil often, every three months or 3K miles, whichever comes first. This is truly cheap insurance against engine wear. ** Use a synthetic engine oil. This gives added protection and reduces the frequency of oil changes. Some synthetics are better than others. Best: Redline (also most expensive), Amsoil, Mobil-1. ** DO NOT USE OIL ADDITIVES! Most oil additives are little help, especially if you are already using a high-quality oil. Some additives can actually speed engine wear. ** The best quality motor oil is found in quart bottles. Bulk oil tanks allow the oil to separate into lighter and heavier elements. Bring your own oil to quickie-oil-change shops and avoid their bulk oil. ** Have your oil analyzed once a year. Oil analysis will reveal seeping head gaskets, leaking air filtration, bearing wear, poor combustion and other engine killers. What do you do with a car once it reaches 100K miles? The answer used to be "Trade it in." But more people are deciding to keep their cars -- which are probably paid for -- rather than adding another monthly bill. In compiling our 100K mile check list, we decided to include everything, even those items which may seem obvious to some of you. Others may have no idea and overlook it until it fails. We have done our best to leave no stone unturned when it comes to helping you prepare for the next 100K miles. GENERAL ITEMS: [] Examine overall body condition, dents, loose fenders. Is there any rust that needs to be treated? [] Are the mirrors and glass in good condition? Carefully inspect the windshield for pits. Pitted glass is a hazard for night-time driving. Get it replaced. [] Do the doors close poorly or need re-alignment? Do the hood and trunk close tightly without slamming? [] Are body weather-stripping and rubber seals intact and water-tight? [] Curb damage to air dam or spoiler can cause engine overheating. LIGHTING AND EMERGENCY ITEMS: [] Check operation of horn, anti-theft devices and emergency flashers. [] Are spare tire, flashlight, jack and tire changing tools in place and in good working condition? [] Check optical horn (high beam flash mechanism), turn signals, auxiliary, backup, running lights, and heated backlight (rear glass defroster). [] Are headlights aimed correctly, both low and high beams? RUBBER UNDER THE HOOD: [] Belts and hoses in use for longer than 5 years or 50K miles are risky. [] Vacuum hoses connected to very hot engine parts (e.g. EGR valve) or any other vacuum hoses may show cracks. If so, replace them. [] Replace any cracked or sagging motor or transaxle mounts and radiator core support mounts. [] Replace any CV joint boots showing cracks or leaking grease. The CV joint should be cleaned and repacked at this time as well. [] Replace any torn tie-rod end boots or ball-joint boots. Yes, new boots are available. [] Inspect driveshaft support rubber bushings for cracks or other damage. LUBRICATED PARTS: [] Engine, transmission, transaxle, differential, transfer case or PTO should be drained and refilled with fresh synthetic lubricants. NOTE: We also recommend lube-oil analysis. Samples from the engine and drive train are recommended to determine if there are any major problems looming in the near future. [] Flush power steering system with fresh P/S oil. Install a power steering filter. [] Flush hydraulic clutch master cylinder. The reservoir should be flushed and filled with new brake fluid. [] Cable-driven clutch mechanism should be lubed with synthetic grease. Replace the cable if it has stretched. [] Lubricate throttle mechanism. [] Inspect transmission shift bushings for damage. Lubricate with silicone grease. [] Lubricate the exposed ends of the parking brake cables with heavy-duty synthetic grease. [] Spray hinges and locks on the doors, hood, trunk and rear hatch with synthetic lubricant. [] Lubricate door striker posts and latch mechanism with clear door lubricating wax. [] Lubricate remote-controlled mirrors and antenna mast with silicone spray. [] Lubricate ball-joints, tie-rod ends and idler arm bushings with heavy-duty synthetic grease. If no zerk (nipple) fitting is available, use grease injector needle to pump grease into the boot. [] Rubber bushings on sway bars should be removed, cleaned and lubricated with synthetic silicon grease. [] Soak all suspension bushings liberally with rubber lubricant. COOLING SYSTEM: [] Check radiator and overflow tank caps for proper function. If they are over 5 years or 50K miles, replace them. [] Radiators with any internal scale buildup should be removed and rodded out by a radiator shop. [] Check thermostat and radiator fan or fan clutch for proper function. [] Backflush radiator, engine and heater core. [] Inspect waterpump and core plugs (freeze plugs) for signs of leaking. [] Check heater water valve for proper operation and signs of leaking. STEERING SYSTEM: [] Check steering play and lock-to-lock operation. Any looseness or binding should be investigated. [] Check steering rack bellows (boots) for presence of leaking lubricant. [] Inspect steering universal coupling(s). [] Remove steering wheel to inspect and lubricate the upper column bearing and horn ring bushing. [] Check all steering linkage parts, ball joints, control arms, tie-rods, idler/pitman arm, etc. for wear or looseness. [] Check rack and pinion mounting bushings for looseness. DRIVELINE: [] Clean and repack serviceable wheel bearings with synthetic grease, replacing wheel dust seals. [] Inspect drive axles or drive shaft(s) for damage, missing balancing weights, or potentially damaging corrosion. [] Clean and lubricate drive shaft slip joints or slip yokes with heavy duty synthetic grease. [] Repack U-Joints or CV joints with fresh grease. SUSPENSION: [] Check all four wheels for alignment. [] Check shock absorbers or struts for leaks or improper function. [] Check sagging springs by measuring the vehicle ride height. [] Check suspension trailing arms and torque arms for worn bushings. SEALS-GASKETS: [] Check driveshaft seals for leaks or damage. [] Check engine seals and gaskets (valve cover gaskets, front/rear seals, filler cap gasket, etc.) for leaks and make any repairs. [] Check engine compartment seal for integrity. [] Check gas cap seal for integrity. FUEL SYSTEM: [] Change fuel filter and inspect the contents. Fuel filters containing rust or metal flakes indicate gas tank corrosion. The tank should be removed and coated with gas tank sealer. [] Remove, clean and rebuild carburetors with new gaskets and seals. The carb must be adjusted with the engine running. [] Check fuel injectors for plugging or poor spray patterns. Some injectors can be cleaned, others must be replaced. [] Measure fuel pressure and fuel volume. Inadequate pressure or volume should be investigate. n many cases, the fuel tank strainer/filter is the cause of fuel delivery problems. [] Conduct a four-gas exhaust analysis to determine the overall condition of the fuel. [] Examine all rubber fuel hoses for cracks or swelling. IGNITION SYSTEM: [] Check ignition base timing and total timing advance. [] Check available coil output voltage level to test the coil. [] Check each of the plug wires with an ohmmeter. 10,000 Ohms per foot is the maximum allowed. [] Replace the spark plugs, cap and rotor if they have more than 36,000 miles. [] Check the distributor shaft for excessive side play. INDUCTION SYSTEM: [] Check the air filter mounting area for proper seal and tight fit. If there is a paper gasket, insure that it seals tightly. [] Check all the air ducts connecting the air filter to the engine and the outside air duct flanges. [] Check the heated air system for proper function. Vehicles use either an exhaust system heat valve, a heat stove and air ducts, or an electric grid under the throttle body. EXHAUST SYSTEM: [] Carefully check the exhaust manifold for cracks or damaged manifold gaskets. [] Check the connections to the down pope flanges or flex pipes for exhaust leaks. [] Check the catalyst for loose internal substrate material by banging on it with your fist. Listen for a rattle inside. [] Check total structural integrity of the entire system, including the resonator and muffler. This is best accomplished by lightly tapping on the metal with the ball end of a ball-peen hammer. If the metal is badly rusted or corroded, it will smash when tapped. [] Inspect all exhaust hangers and supports. BATTERY: [] If the battery is at, or near, the end of its warranted life, replace it. [] Inspect the battery tray and hold-down hardware for potential problems with securing the battery in place. [] Inspect the battery cables and replace them if they show signs of corrosion or breakdown of the insulation. BRAKES: [] The brake fluid should be flushed every second year. [] The brake calipers and/or wheel cylinders should be examined for leakage. The self adjusters should be checked for proper operation. [] Both front flexible brake hoses should be replaced. [] The parking brake cable should be adjusted so the parking brake only has 1/2 of the pedal or lever travel necessary to apply the parking brakes. [] The master cylinder should be examined for seepage past the seals into the power booster. [] The drums and/or rotors should be checked with a gauge to determine if they are too thin for safe continued use. ************************************************************************************* We hope that you will subscribe to Nutz & Boltz, the price is only $25 for 12 monthly issues. Nutz & Boltz is backed by a NO-RISK money-back guarantee, if you decide to cancel your subscription within the first three months, for any reason, WE WILL REFUND YOUR MONEY IN FULL. We also offer a more comprehensive system called the Doctor's Care Program (DCP). For $36 you get the full year subscription plus extras. You get a N&B keytag finder, if your keys are ever lost the post office will deliver them to us and we will use the engraved number on the back to return them to you free of charge. A carbon monoxide detector for use in home or automobile will warn you of dangerous CO levels. A lube-oil analysis kit is included with the DCP for you to send a sample of your engine oil to be computer analysed, a copy of the report is sent to both you and Dr. Dre, he will review it and call you if there are any conditions which might require your attention. Finally, the your DCP membership includes our DataWatch System. When you subscribe, you will be sent a registration form asking for all the pertinent information about your car. If our databases reveal anything serious that you should be made aware of, a bulletin will be sent to you. You'll know well in advance of factory recalls, secret warrantees and other such information, if the data is for a fix, you will be sent procedures and even the right part numbers to get the job done right. Whether you're a Do-It-Yourselfer or you use the services of a shop, you will have the information necessary to get the job done right the first time. Just say NO to ripoffs and scams, subscribe to the Nutz & Boltz newsletter and save hundreds, thousands... maybe even your life! The Nutz & Boltz radio show can be heard nationwide on the Standard Broadcasting Network and the For The People Network. but for those of you that live in Maryland -- home of N&B, the broadcast schedule is as follows: All shows listed are on SATURDAY. 9:00 am - 10:00 am WANN - Annapolis, MD - 1190 AM 9:00 am - 10:00 am WTTR - Westminster, MD - 1470 AM 10:00 am - 1:00 pm WFMD - Frederick, MD - 930 AM 12:00 noon - 2:00 pm WCBM - Baltimore, MD - 680 AM Ordering Nutz & Boltz is easy, you can write, phone or FAX... here's how. WRITE: Send $25 or $36 Nutz & Boltz check or money P.O. Box 123 order to: Butler, MD 21023 PHONE: Use Visa or Mastercard 1-800-888-0091 outside of Maryland 10:00 am to 6:00 pm EST 1-410-584-7574 inside Maryland FAX: Use Visa or Mastercard 1-410-584-1054 24 hours/7 days Questions, questions, where can you get answers? Dr. Dre answers ALL questions sent in writing. Simply include a self adressed, stamped envelope with your letter explaining the details of your car problem. Stay tuned... Future HelpFiles will cover topics such as: PTFE (teflon), Stains and Ripoffs. Keep your Sunny Side Up and Your Greasy Side Down... Awww Nutz, Gotta Bolt! *************************************************************************************