


Brew Great American Style Beers at Home was written with the
intention of providing the necessary information to allow one to
make his/her own beer at home without requiring alot of reading
or understanding of the chemical processes involved.  The beers
described in this book are unique in that they are for American
Style beers.  I have found no other publication that tells how to
brew these lighter type beers.

This book is being presented on a shareware basis.  If you use
the information in this book, please send $5 to the address
listed below.  The money you save on your first batch will more
than cover the $5 you send me.  Please copy and share the book
with others and pass along this page and encourage them to send
in the $5 for their copy.  

Send $5 to:    Brewmaster
               c/o Darin Danelski
               P.O. Box 236
               Hartland, WI 53029

Thank you, from one beer drinker to another.

                           Brew Great
                            American
                           Style Beer
                             at Home











               Written by:    Darin Danelski
                              Brewmaster
                              P.O. Box 236
                              Hartland, WI 53029



                        Table of Contents

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Costs  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Equipment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Types of Beer  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Record Keeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Sterilization. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Ingredients  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Brewing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Fermenting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Bottling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Appendix A - Recipes

Appendix B - Record Keeping Sheet

Appendix C - Suppliers
Introduction

          Congratulations, you have just made the first move
          toward discovering the wonderful world of homebrewing.
          You will find that making your own beer is rewarding,
          enjoyable, and best of all, much less expensive than
          purchasing commercial beer.  The beer you will brew
          will contain no preservatives and will be as or more
          palatable than your favorite commercial beer.  Because
          of the pure nature of your beer, you will find that
          side effects such as morning head and stomach aches
          will be much less noticeable or even nonexistent.

          I have prepared this booklet to provide you with the
          basic information necessary to get you brewing in a
          short period of time.  Most books published about
          homebrewing are written by beer connoisseurs or
          purists.  They teach you about the chemistry of
          brewing, matching alpha and beta acids, water testing,
          mashing, etc.  They also assume that you want to make
          heavy, dark, syrupy, bitter beers. I have read several
          homebrewing books, and have yet to find a single recipe
          for an American type beer included in them.  This
          booklet is targeted toward you, the person who enjoys
          American style beer.

          I have experimented with several recipes of my own, and
          have developed American type brews that even my friends
          and relatives enjoy.  If you have ever tasted a friends
          or relatives home brew, chances are you were less than
          impressed.  Don't let this prevent you from trying the
          recipes in this booklet.  Most casual homebrewers use
          ingredient kits to brew their beer.  These kits are
          expensive, and usually do not taste good because they
          are fashioned after popular premium beers and are
          generally heavy, dark, and bitter.

          The brewing process presented in this book applies to
          most types of beers.  If you enjoy premium type beers,
          recipes are provided to allow you to brew your favorite
          type also.

          So let's go!
Costs

          If you are like me, you are getting very annoyed by
          having to pay $12 to $17 for a case of commercial beer. 
          Taxes, packaging, advertisement, and distribution make
          up most of the cost of commercial beer.  This upward
          trend will only increase in the future as taxes and
          costs continue to increase.  I began brewing my own
          beer because of the high cost of commercial beer.  Now
          I do it because it is enjoyable too.

          Like most hobbies, an initial investment for equipment
          is required.  Once the equipment is obtained, you will
          find that beer making consumables/ingredients are very
          inexpensive.  You can expect to shell out anywhere from
          $50 to $100 for the required equipment depending on
          where you purchase the equipment and on what equipment
          you may already have.

          The ingredient costs can range from $4.50 per batch to
          $25 per batch.  A batch is 5 gallons or a little over
          two cases of 12 ounce bottles.  As you can see, $2.25
          per case is much less than the equivalent commercial
          beer would cost. 

          The cost of your beer depends on the cost of the
          ingredients.  I have found that mail order is the best
          source for low cost quality ingredients.  I purchase
          ingredients in bulk quantities rather than premeasured
          individual packs.

          I suggest that you purchase your ingredients at a local
          beer and wine making store for your first few batches. 
          This will give you the chance to find a recipe that you
          really like before purchasing bulk quantities.  I have
          included a few mail order suppliers in Appendix C.
Equipment

          Like most hobbies, homebrewing requires some special
          equipment.  This section describes what equipment you
          will need and where you can obtain it.

          The following list summarizes the equipment you will
          need to obtain:

          - Brewpot 16 quart or larger with cover
          - Large funnel
          - Stainless steel strainer/colander
          - Large spoon
          - Rolling pin
          - Syphon tube (J-Tube)
          - Airlock 
          - 5 gallon Carboy
          - 10 or 15 gallon white plastic garbage can with lid
          - Hydrometer
          - Bottle capper and caps
          - (52) 12 ounce returnable type beer bottles
          - Chlorine bleach

Brewpot 
          Your brewpot should be constructed of either stainless
          steel or enamel coated steel.  Enamel coated steel pots
          are usually black with little grey speckles all over or
          white with little black and grey speckles all over. 
          Stainless steel pots are very expensive (approximately
          $120 for a 20 quart) compared to the enamel coated type
          (approximately $30 for a 20 quart).  The advantage of
          the stainless steel type is that they are virtually
          indestructible and will last a long time.  The enamel
          coated tend to chip over time and will last 2-3 years. 
          The stainless steel types transfer heat better from
          your stove to the liquid.  Most people have the enamel
          type already in their homes for soups, etc.  Use
          whatever type you can afford or have available.  Do not
          use aluminum pots because the brew you will be making
          contains acids that will react with the aluminum.  This
          will make your brew taste like a rusty bumper!  The
          stainless steel pots can be found at department stores
          such as JC Penney, Sears, or Boston Store.  The enamel
          type can be found at most discount stores.

Large Funnel
          A stainless steel or food grade plastic funnel with a
          top diameter of 8" or more.  Try to find one with a
          handle and a removable filter insert.  This type of
          funnel can be found at your local discount or hardware
          store.

Stainless Steel Strainer
          This item is used to strain your brew and should be
          constructed of stainless steel that looks like a window
          screen.  The strainer should fit inside your funnel. 
          Most kitchens are already equipped with this item, but
          if you need to buy one, it can be obtained at most
          discount stores.

Large Spoon
          The spoon should be of a metal construction with a
          plastic handle.  It can be stainless or plated steel. 
          Try not to use plastic as you will be stirring boiling
          liquid and some plastics melt.  Wood can also be used,
          but is much more difficult to clean.

Rolling Pin
          Again, most kitchens are already equipped with a
          rolling pin.  If you do not have one, one can be
          obtained at most discount stores.

Syphon Tube (J-Tube)
          A J-Tube is a special tube that is curved like the
          letter J that is used to transfer fermented beer from
          various containers.  It is equipped with a special end
          that draws liquid from approximately 1/2 inch above the
          bottom of a container.  The special end prevents
          sediment from being transferred.  The J-Tube includes a
          clear tube that is approximately 3 feet long.  The tube
          should be obtained from a local wine and beer making
          supply store (check your yellow pages under wine and
          beer making).  If you have no local source, there are
          several mail order houses that equipment can be
          purchased from.  The J-tube costs about $3.

Air Lock
          An air lock is a special device that allows
          fermentation gasses to be expelled from a fermentation
          container while preventing air from entering it.  There
          are three types of air locks currently used, the one
          piece, two piece, and the three piece.  The one piece
          is shaped like an S.  A small amount of water is placed
          inside and it bubbles as gasses escape.  The two and
          three piece types use an inverted cone shaped cup that
          floats over a tube submerged in water.  Gas escaping
          the tube bubbles from under the cone.  The two and
          three piece are desirable as they are easier to clean. 
          The airlock should be supplied with a rubber stopper
          that fits into the opening of the fermentation
          container like a cork.  Air locks cost about $2 and are
          available at wine and beer making suppliers.

5 Gallon Carboy
          A carboy is a large clear glass container with a small
          mouth opening at the top.  The small opening is
          necessary to allow placement of the air lock described
          above.  Some people use a 5 gallon plastic water bottle
          which looks just like a carboy to ferment their beer. 
          Either are acceptable, but the glass type is easier to
          clean as it will not stain.  The glass type costs
          approximately $20 and is available at wine and beer
          making supply stores.  The plastic bottles can usually
          be obtained for free or at a nominal cost from anyone
          who owns and uses a fresh water dispenser.

Hydrometer
          A hydrometer is a simple device that is used to
          determine the alcohol content of your brew.  It is also
          used to determine when fermentation has completed.  It
          is constructed of glass which encloses a graduated
          scale representing specific gravity.  This item sells
          for approximately $7-$15 at any wine and beer making
          supply store.  Purchase the least expensive one you can
          find as accuracy is not that critical.

Bottle Capper & Caps
          Bottle cappers are available in two basic styles, the
          lever type and the bench type.  The purpose of the
          bottle capper is to crimp a new bottle cap onto your
          bottles to seal the bottle.  Both types do a good job
          of crimping the cap.  The lever type is a little more
          difficult to operate, but is less expensive.  The lever
          type costs about $13 and the bench type costs about
          $30.  You will also need bottle caps.  They sell for
          approximately $3 per 150.  Again, these items can be
          purchased at any wine and beer making supply store.

12oz Returnable Bottles
          For each batch, you will need from 48-52 12 ounce
          returnable type beer bottles.  These are the type of
          bottle that come in 24 bottle cases with the hinged
          type cardboard containers.  Do not use screw top type
          bottles as they are not strong enough to handle the
          pressures that home brew exerts on the bottles.

Chlorine Bleach
          You will need a supply of standard laundry type
          chlorine bleach for sanitizing your equipment and
          bottles.  Usually 4-6 oz per session is enough.
Types of Beer

          There are basically two types of beer that homebrewers
          make, ales and lagers.  The type of beer depends on the
          type of yeast that is used for fermentation.  Simply,
          ales use ale yeast, and lagers use lager yeast.

          In this booklet, I have limited the recipes to all malt
          ales, which include most American pilsners.  Typically,
          lagers are fermented at lower than room temperatures
          for much longer periods of time than ales.

          Beer flavors range from extra light pilsners, to golden
          ales, amber ales, brown ales such as bock, and dark
          stout beers.  The recipes we will focus on are light
          pilsners and golden ales.

          You will need to determine what recipe in Appendix A
          that you want to start with before you obtain your
          ingredients.  After you have found a recipe that you
          really like, you will want to start buying those
          ingredients in bulk quantities.
Overview

          This section will give you an overview of the entire
          homebrewing process.  The process is similar for most
          recipes you will work with.

          The brewing process starts by creating the wort
          pronounced "wert".  The wort is the mixture of water,
          malts, extracts, hops, sugars, and additives that are
          cooked together.  This mixture becomes the base of the
          beer.  The purpose of the cooking process is to break
          down the starch in the malts into fermentable sugars.

          The wort cooking process takes about one hour to
          completely break down the various malts into sugars. 
          The wort is then cooled and transferred to a
          fermentation container (carboy).  Hops is added to the
          wort to add the desired amount of bitterness and acts
          as a natural preservative for your beer.

          The fermentation process starts when yeast added to the
          wort consumes the sugars.  The yeast cells are living
          organisms which eat sugar and expel alcohol and carbon
          dioxide (referred to as fermentation gasses earlier).  
          Initially, the yeasts go on a binge and they produce a
          foamy discharge out of the carboy for 2-3 days.  This
          foamy discharge is called froth.  Once the froth
          subsides, the airlock is placed onto the fermenter
          (carboy) for the remainder of the fermentation. 
          Eventually, the yeasts run out of sugar to consume and
          fermentation stops.  This usually takes from 8-14 days
          depending on sugar content and temperature.  The
          hydrometer is used to determine the end of
          fermentation.  As you probably figured out, the more
          sugars in your wort, the more alcohol that will be
          produced.

          After fermentation ends, the brew is basically
          uncarbonated beer.  In other words, it is flat.  The
          next process is to bottle the beer.  The carbonation
          process occurs in the bottle and is accomplished by
          adding priming sugar to the brew prior to bottling. 
          The remaining yeast cells in the brew begin consuming
          the newly added sugar and expel the required amount of
          carbon dioxide (CO2).  This process is called naturally
          carbonating your beer.

          The next step is the most difficult...waiting.  The
          carbonation process takes about 5 days to accomplish. 
          It is usually desirable to let the bottled beer settle
          and clear up for approximately 10-14 days before
          drinking.  Opening a bottle after only 5 days will
          yield a somewhat cloudy beer with a more bitter taste
          as the yeast cells have not completely settled out.
Record Keeping

          In Appendix B I have included a sample blank brewing
          record.  It is very important to keep records of all
          the beers you brew, as when you find the perfect
          recipe, you want to be able to reproduce it as close as
          possible.  You will find yourself referring back to old
          recipes often when deciding what recipe to make next,
          or to use as a background for a new recipe you are
          creating.  

Sterilization

          This is probably the most important subject pertaining
          to homebrewing and cannot be over emphasized.  It is so
          important to make sure all equipment, utensils, and
          containers are sanitized prior to use.  If foreign
          bacteria or molds enter your beer, you will have to
          toss the entire batch in most cases, and believe me
          that is very upsetting.

          In general, two methods are used to sterilize your
          equipment and accessories.  The first is to immerse as
          many items as are practical into boiling water and even
          into your wort during boiling.  As it is not practical
          to boil carboys, beer bottles, and J-tubes, a mixture
          of very hot tap water and chlorine bleach, at a ratio
          of 4 ounces (1/2 cup) per 5 gallons, is used to
          sanitize.  The chlorine will kill almost all bacteria. 
          It is important to rinse the chlorine off your
          equipment thoroughly as any chlorine residue will kill
          your beer yeasts also.  When working with chlorine
          bleach, make sure you have old clothes on.  I have
          ruined several pair of pants from bleach splashing on
          me during sanitizing.

          In general, don't use anything in your process that has
          not been sanitized.  I have made several batches of
          beer and have only had to throw one batch away because
          of careless sanitation procedures.  In this case, an
          ounce of prevention is worth 5 gallons of delicious
          homebrew!
Ingredients

          Beer can consist of many ingredients and can be made
          from almost anything.  I have heard of cherry beer,
          potato beer, chocolate beer, and even iced tea beer. 
          Although others find joy in creating weird beer recipes
          like those, I prefer to stick to American type beers. 
          These beers consist of malt, hops, yeast, and sugar.

          Malts:

          Malts come in many varieties and forms.  Some people
          buy malt in a liquid or powder extract form, some buy
          it in a grain form, and others use a mixture of both. 
          The extract form is usually sold in 3 pound, 6 pound,
          50 pound, or 75 pond quantities.  The liquid extract is
          a very thick and sticky molasses like syrup.  The dry
          powder extract looks like colored flour.  They are
          available in several flavors which are described by
          their color.  Typical flavors are Extra Light, Light,
          Golden, Amber, Weiss (wheat), Brown, and Dark.

          Liquid malt extracts are very convenient in the 3 pound
          and 6 pound packages.  They are supplied in vacuum
          sealed plastic bags that allow you to work with them
          without getting the sticky extract all over.  The
          disadvantage is that it is more expensive than the
          grain type malts.

          The dry powder type extracts are also convenient.  They
          are also supplied in plastic bags.  I have found that
          the dry malt extracts don't dissolve as well and seem
          to settle out and leave a lot of sediment in the
          fermenter.  The advantage of the dry malt extracts is
          that they will keep longer, so you can buy in bulk to
          get better prices.

          Both liquid and dry malt extracts are fairly neutral
          tasting.  They are often used as a base and grain type
          malts are added to obtain specific flavors the
          brewmaster desires.

          Malts that are supplied in a grain form are available
          in many more flavors.  They can be purchased by the
          pound or in bulk quantities of 50 pounds.  Some typical
          malts are two-row pale malt, crystal malt, chocolate
          malt, dextrine malt, pale ale malt, wheat malt, black
          patent malt, and roasted barley to name a few.

          Dextrine and two-row pale malts are very light in
          color.  Crystal malt produces a slightly darker golden
          color.  Chocolate, black patent, and roasted barley
          produce dark beers.  Chocolate malt is named for it
          color and not for the taste it creates.  Chocolate malt
          actually gives beers a coffee like taste.  

          The color a malt produces is rated on a scale called
          Lovibond.  A typical two-row pale malt will have a
          Lovibond rating of approximately 1 or 2.  A black
          patent malt will have a Lovibond of up to 500.

          Grain type malts require a little more time to utilize,
          but are well worth it.  They are less expensive than
          extract type malts and add flexibility to your recipes
          because they are available in so many flavors.  The
          additional time required to use grain type malts is due
          to the fact that grain type malts must be mashed.  The
          mashing process is not difficult, but it requires about
          an hour to perform.  This process will be described
          later.

          Hops

          Most beer drinkers are familiar with the word hops,
          know that it is something that is in their beer, but
          wouldn't recognize one if it passed him/her on the
          street.

          Hops are actually flowers.  They are available in two
          forms, whole and pelletized.  Whole hops look just like
          a flower bud with petals.  The pelletized type is made
          by compressing whole hops into pellets that look like
          rabbit food.  Most people use pellet type hops because
          they retain their freshness longer and don't have to be
          strained out prior to transferring the wort to the
          fermenter.

          There are two reasons hops are added to beers.  Hops
          are acidic in nature and act as a natural preservative. 
          The acids in hops (called alpha acids) prevent the
          growth of molds and other bacteria.  Hops also have a
          bittering effect, which help offset the natural
          sweetness of the malts.  

          Like malts, hops are available in several aromas or
          flavors.  Hops are rated by their alpha acid content, 
          which usually ranges from 3% to 10%.  The higher the
          alpha acid content, the more bittering effect that
          usually results.

          Hops are added at two times during cooking of the wort,
          once at the beginning, and again near the end of the
          boil.  The hops added at the beginning are referred to
          as boiling hops, and the hops added at the end are
          called finishing hops.  The boiling hops are used
          mainly to provide the preservative, and the finishing
          hops are used to provide the desired bittering flavor.

          Yeast

          There are two main types of yeast used in homebrewing,
          ale yeast and lager yeast.  They are available in
          either liquid or dry forms.

          Liquid yeast is available in more flavors or strains
          than dry yeast and imparts a smoother flavor to the
          brew.  It takes up to a week to prepare.  This makes it
          difficult to plan when you are going to make your brew,
          as you must use the yeast within a day of when it is
          ready.  Liquid yeast is also more expensive than dry
          yeast.

          I typically use dry yeasts because of their convenience
          and low cost. The batches I have produced using liquid
          yeast were noticeably smoother although the dry yeast
          versions are more than acceptable.

          Most recipes you will be brewing utilize ale yeast,
          which are considered top fermenting.  Ale yeast
          requires temperatures between 60-65 degrees Fahrenheit
          for fermentation.  Lager yeasts require temperatures
          between 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit for much longer
          periods of time.  As you experiment with various
          recipes of your own, you may want to try liquid and/or
          lager yeast.

          Sugar

          Sugar is sometimes added to the wort to produce a
          lighter beer.  The added sugar will also increase the
          final alcohol level of the beer.  The addition of sugar
          to beer is frowned on by many beer purists and
          brewmasters.  Sugar is very inexpensive and is used as
          an alternative to malts.  American beers contain a high
          percentage of sugar.  

          Sugar is also added during bottling.  This addition of
          a small quantity is called priming.  The priming
          process provides a new supply of sugar to the remaining
          yeast cells in the beer, causing the natural
          carbonation process to occur.

          The most commonly used sugar for brewing is corn sugar. 
          It is supplied in a fine granular form with a
          consistency similar to powdered cane sugar.  It is very
          sweet and dissolves easily.

          Other Ingredients

          There are two other inexpensive ingredients that are
          added to beer to aid in clearing the beer.  The first
          is gypsum and the other is irish moss.  Gypsum is used
          if the water you use is soft.  It will make the water
          harder, which will give you a less cloudy beer.  Irish
          moss works with gypsum to produce even clearer beer.
Brewing

          Well you now have the basic background required to
          allow you to understand the process of homebrewing.  We
          will now begin the beer making process by preparing the
          wort.

          The first step is to pick out a recipe that you want to
          make and give it a name.  Beer is a living organism,
          and I have found that it acts much better if it has a
          name.  It is also much easier to talk to your beer if
          it has a name.  I have included a few recipes in
          Appendix A for your review.  Choose one of the recipes
          and purchase the required quantities of ingredients
          from your local brewers supply store or through any
          reputable mail order brewers supply store.

          The next step is to gather and prepare the equipment
          and ingredients you will be using.  You should gather
          the following equipment as described earlier: brewpot,
          large container, funnel, strainer, large spoon, rolling
          pin, carboy, hydrometer, and a measuring cup.  You
          should also have a kitchen timer, wash rags and hot
          pads available.

          Next, you need to roll the grains to crack the shells
          of the grains.  This process is required to allow the
          water to permeate the inside of the grains.  Some
          suppliers offer precracked grains.  If you have
          purchased this type, you can skip this step.  To crack
          the grains, spread a small amount of the grains onto a
          cookie sheet or any flat surface that will contain the
          grains.  Gently roll the rolling pin over the grains to
          crack them.  The goal is only to crack them, not to
          pulverize them.  If you over crack the grains, a more
          bitter taste will be transferred to the wort.  Proceed
          with cracking small quantities at a time and collect
          the cracked grains into your brewpot.  After all the
          grains are cracked, bring your brewpot to your stove,
          but do not turn on the heat yet.

          The next step is to mash your grain.  Mashing involves
          soaking the grains in hot (150-170 degree fahrenheit)
          water for about an hour.  This process converts the
          starches in the grains into fermentable sugars.

          To begin the mashing process, measure 2.5 gallons (10
          quarts) of cold water and pour it over the grains in
          your brewpot.  Turn on the burner to begin heating the
          grain/water mixture.  Set the heat control to medium or
          medium-high.  Note the time on your record sheet.  To
          eliminate the need for a thermometer, it is usually
          sufficient to heat the mixture until you just begin
          seeing very small bubbles escaping from the surface of
          the liquid.  At this point, reduce the heat to medium
          and continue to heat for about 30-45 minutes to
          completely convert the starches to sugars.  The mixture
          should never come to a rolling boil during this step. 
          Turn off the heat when this step is complete and note
          the time on you record sheet.

          The next step is to create the wort from your mash. 
          You will need to remove the spent grains from your
          brewpot.  I usually transfer the liquid mash in the
          brewpot into another large container.  As I pour the
          liquid out of the brewpot, I capture the spent grains
          in the strainer.  If you do not have a large container
          to transfer the mash into, you can use a strainer type
          spoon to spoon the grains out of the brewpot.  It is
          acceptable to leave small amounts of grains in the
          brewpot, although the more that remain, the more bitter
          the brew will be.

          Transfer the liquid mash back into the brewpot.  Add
          the desired quantity and type of boiling hops to the
          liquid.  Turn the burner to medium-high to begin
          heating and note the time in your record book.  If you
          are using liquid or dry malt extracts, they should be
          added slowly while stirring at this time.  Any
          additives such as gypsum or Irish moss should be added
          now also.  Heat the wort to a boil.  It is very
          important to watch the pot during this step, as wort
          tends to boil over very suddenly.  While the wort is
          being heated to a boil, it should be stirred every 2-3
          minutes.  Try to keep the cover on the brewpot, as the
          temperature of the wort will rise more quickly.

          When the wort begins to boil, reduce the heat to a
          point where the wort just kind of rolls over rather
          than letting it vigorously boil.  Note the time and
          continue to boil for about 45 minutes.  Stir the wort
          every 5 minutes or so.  It is not necessary to keep the
          cover on the brewpot once a boil is obtained.

          While the wort is boiling, clean and sanitize your
          carboy, funnel, J-tube, and strainer using the
          procedure described earlier.  Measure 2.5 gallons (10
          quarts) of the coldest water you can find into your
          carboy.  The cold water is important because the wort
          should be cooled as quickly as possible.  This will
          allow less time for bacteria to begin forming in the
          carboy prior to adding the yeast.

          After 45 minutes of cooking the wort are completed, add
          the finishing hops.  Note the time, and cook for 3
          minutes longer.  After the three minutes are up, turn
          off the heat.

          Place the strainer inside the funnel and place the
          funnel into the carboy.  I usually ask for some
          assistance for this step, as handling the boiling hot
          wort in the brewpot is somewhat dangerous.  I have
          someone hold the funnel while I pour the wort into the
          funnel.  Any remaining grains and hop sediment are
          captured in the strainer.  The hot wort hits the cold
          water already in the carboy and cools down very
          quickly.  The complete contents of the brewpot should
          easily fit into the carboy.

          The next step is the worst part, cleaning up.  I
          usually begin cleaning my equipment and kitchen while
          the mixture in the carboy cools to room temperature. 
          If you want to speed cooling, place the carboy in a
          sink full of water and add ice.

          After the brew cools to room temperature, the yeast is
          prepared and added.  The process of adding the yeast to
          the unfermented beer is called "pitching".  (I have
          assumed that you are using dry yeast, as all my recipes
          utilize it).  To prepare the yeast, heat about 1 cup of
          cold (8 ounces) of water until it is lukewarm.  Remove
          the water from the heat.  You should not use hot tap
          water, as it may contain undesirable bacteria.  Open
          the yeast packet and gradually pour it into the
          lukewarm water while stirring.  After the entire
          contents of the yeast packet is transferred, loosely
          cover the yeast/water mixture and let it stand for
          about 15 minutes. 

          While the yeast is standing, you should check the
          initial specific gravity of your brew.  This is
          accomplished by transferring a small quantity of the
          brew into the vial that came with your hydrometer.  Use
          the sanitized J-tube to syphon the brew from the
          carboy.  To start the syphon, place the J-tube into the
          carboy, suck on the end of the hose until the brew just
          about reaches your lips, then quickly place your finger
          over the end of the hose.  Don't worry if you get some
          of the brew in your mouth, it is only beer.  Now lower
          the end of the hose to a level that is below the level
          of the surface of the brew in the carboy.  Place the
          end of the hose over the mouth of the hydrometer vial
          and release your finger and fill the vial until it is
          almost full.  Place your finger back over the hose and
          lift the hose well above the carboy.  Release your
          finger to allow the brew in the hose to return to the
          carboy.  Next, add the hydrometer bulb to the vial.  If
          the level in the vial is too high and the vial will
          overflow, remove the hydrometer bulb and either pour a
          small amount of the beer out or drink a little.  This
          is your first opportunity to taste your beer.  If the
          beer tastes even remotely acceptable now, you have had
          a success, as it only gets better with time.  Place the
          vial on a level surface and read the hydrometer scale. 
          Sometimes there are multiple scales on the hydrometer,
          so use the one that reads from approximately 0.900 to
          1.100 with 1.000 shown clearly.  The reading you should
          find for the recipes shown in this book should be from
          1.015 to 1.045 or so.  Record the reading in your
          record book as the initial specific gravity.  Do not
          return the tested beer in the vial to the carboy as you
          may contaminate the beer.  Either drink it or pour it
          down the drain.

          After the yeast has been allowed to stand for 15
          minutes, stir the mixture one more time.  Pour the
          mixture into the carboy, and stir it with the J-tube.
Fermenting

          Move the carboy to a cool place where the temperature
          will remain fairly constant.  Temperatures in the 60-65
          degree Fahrenheit range are best.  Basements are ideal
          locations as the temperatures remain fairly constant.

          During the initial fermentation, the yeasts generate a
          very active foamy discharge called froth.  The froth
          flows out of the carboy and runs down the side of it. 
          This initial fermentation typically lasts for about 2-3
          days.  To contain this froth, I have purchased a small
          white covered 10 gallon plastic garbage can that I use
          to place the carboy in during initial fermentation.  I
          place the carboy into the garbage can and place the
          cover on it.  This setup allows the froth to accumulate
          in the bottom can and keeps dust and dirt away from the
          brew. 

          After the primary fermentation completes, the cover
          should be removed from the garbage can and an air lock
          should be placed into the carboy opening.  You will
          notice that the airlock will bubble vigorously at
          first.  The fermentation process will continue for
          about 8-14 days.  You can tell when fermentation is
          concluding by looking at for small bubbles rising from
          the bottom of the carboy.  When these bubbles are no
          longer visible, you should check the specific gravity
          the same way as before.  Note the specific gravity and
          date in your record.  Wait one more day and check the
          specific gravity again.  If the reading is the same as
          the day before, fermentation is complete and you can
          begin bottling.  Record the specific gravity reading
          and date in your record book.

Bottling

          When you are ready to bottle your beer, you should
          gather your bottles, caps, capper, J-tube, garbage can,
          bleach, and corn sugar.

          First, sterilize your bottles by mixing one cup of
          bleach with about 10 gallons of hot water in your
          garbage can.  Submerse as many bottles as you can and
          let them soak for about 2-3 minutes.  Empty the bleach
          solution from each bottle back into the garbage can and
          rinse each bottle two to three times with very hot tap
          water.  Set the bottles upside down if possible on some
          clean towels to allow them to drain and dry.  Sanitize
          all the bottles this way.  Now sanitize the J-tube in
          the bleach water and rinse it with very hot tap water. 
          Finally, rinse the garbage can several times with hot
          tap water to remove all bleach residue.

          Next, sanitize enough caps for the bottles by placing
          them into a pot of boiling water for 2-3 minutes.  Keep
          the caps submerged until you need them.

          Now that everything is sanitized, you can begin
          bottling.  Begin by syphoning the brew from the carboy
          into your garbage can (which was sanitized during the
          bottle washing process).  When the carboy is almost
          empty, watch it carefully to prevent the bottom
          sediment from being transferred to the garbage can.

          Next, you need to prime the beer with more sugar to
          create the carbonation.  Boil 2 cups of water and stir
          in 3/4 cup of corn sugar until it is completely
          dissolved.  Remove the mixture from the heat and pour
          it into the brew in the garbage can.  Use the J-tube to
          gently stir the brew.

          Place the garbage can on something higher than table
          level so that you can syphon the brew into the bottles. 
          It is important to syphon the brew into the bottles
          rather than pouring it in as you don't want to
          introduce air into the bottles.  Air will spoil the
          beer.

          The most efficient method of bottling is to set up a
          small assembly line and get someone to help you.  One
          person will transfer the brew into the bottles and the
          other will cap them.  This helps out because a syphon
          only needs to be started once.  Try to make sure that
          all the bottles are accessible to the person filling so
          he doesn't have to stop to get more bottles.  The
          capper can help out with this.  The bottles should be
          filled to within 3/4 to 1 inch from the top of the
          bottle.

          After the bottles are filled and capped, they should be
          placed into the returnable case they were purchased in. 
          The bottles should be kept at room temperature for 10-
          14 days before refrigerating.  This will allow the
          carbonation and settling process to complete.

          When pouring the beer from the bottles, it is important
          to pour slowly with the bottle almost horizontal.  The
          yeast that created the carbonation settles out in the
          bottom of the bottle and although it will not hurt you,
          it has an undesirable bitter taste.  By pouring slowly,
          you can avoid transferring the yeast sediment to your
          glass.  For this reason, I do not recommend drinking
          directly out of the bottle.

          The next step is the best....Drink and Enjoy.










                           Appendix A

                             Recipes


          The following recipes are provided to get you started
          on the path to enjoying home brewed beer.  I have tried
          to provide an assortment of recipes that will please
          your specific tastes.
                      Erika's Light Pilsner

3 lbs   Briess Brewers Gold Malt Extract or Equivalent
2 lbs   Crystal Malt
1 lb    Corn Sugar (for wort)
1/2 oz  Cascade Hops (boiling)
1/4 oz  Hallertau Hops (finishing)
1 pack  (approx. 14 grams) Brewers grade Ale Yeast
3/4 cup Corn Sugar (used for priming at bottling)
1 tsp   Gypsum (Food Grade)
5 gal   Water

The following instructions summarize the steps described in the
text of this book.  Refer to the text if you are unclear as what
is meant below.

1. Crush crystal malt grains if required
2. Add crushed grains to empty brewpot
3. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to brewpot
4. Turn stove on medium/medium high
5. Heat until small bubbles appear then reduce heat to maintain
   that temperature.
6. Let simmer for 30-45 minutes
7. Remove spent grains
8. Increase the heat setting on the stove
9. Add malt extract while stirring
10. Add boiling hops and gypsum
11. Heat to boil and adjust heat to maintain slow rolling boil
    while stirring often
12. Let wort boil for 45 minutes from the time it starts boiling
13. Add the finishing Hops
14. Boil for 3 minutes longer
15. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to carboy
16. Transfer the hot wort into the carboy
17. Prepare yeast as described in this book
18. Let mixture cool to room temperature
19. Measure and record the initial specific gravity
20. Add yeast to mixture
21. Stir mixture to distribute yeast
22. Follow fermentation and bottling processes as described in
    this book.

                   Erika's Extra Light Pilsner

3 lbs   Briess Light Malt Extract or Equivalent
2 lbs   Two Row Pale Ale Malt
1 lb    Corn Sugar (for wort)
1/4 oz  Cascade Hops (boiling)
1/4 oz  Hallertau Hops (boiling)
1/4 oz  Cascade Hops (finishing)
1 pack  (approx. 14 grams) Brewers grade Ale Yeast
3/4 cup Corn Sugar (used for priming at bottling)
1 tsp   Gypsum (Food Grade)
5 gal   Water

The following instructions summarize the steps described in the
text of this book.  Refer to the text if you are unclear as what
is meant below.

1. Crush malt grains if required
2. Add crushed grains to empty brewpot
3. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to brewpot
4. Turn stove on medium/medium high
5. Heat until small bubbles appear then reduce heat to maintain
   that temperature.
6. Let simmer for 30-45 minutes
7. Remove spent grains
8. Increase the heat setting on the stove
9. Add malt extract while stirring
10. Add boiling hops and gypsum
11. Heat to boil and adjust heat to maintain slow rolling boil
    while stirring often
12. Let wort boil for 45 minutes from the time it starts boiling
13. Add the finishing Hops
14. Boil for 3 minutes longer
15. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to carboy
16. Transfer the hot wort into the carboy
17. Prepare yeast as described in this book
18. Let mixture cool to room temperature
19. Measure and record the initial specific gravity
20. Add yeast to mixture
21. Stir mixture to distribute yeast
22. Follow fermentation and bottling processes as described in
    this book.

                          Special Amber

6 lbs     Amber Malt Extract or Equivalent
1-1/2 lbs Crystal Malt
1 oz      Cascade Hops (boiling)
1/2 oz    Hallertau Hops (finishing)
1 pack    (approx. 14 grams) Brewers grade Ale Yeast
3/4 cup   Corn Sugar (used for priming at bottling)
1 tsp     Gypsum (Food Grade)
5 gal     Water

The following instructions summarize the steps described in the
text of this book.  Refer to the text if you are unclear as what
is meant below.

1. Crush crystal malt grains if required
2. Add crushed grains to empty brewpot
3. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to brewpot
4. Turn stove on medium/medium high
5. Heat until small bubbles appear then reduce heat to maintain
   that temperature.
6. Let simmer for 30-45 minutes
7. Remove spent grains
8. Increase the heat setting on the stove
9. Add malt extract while stirring
10. Add boiling hops and gypsum
11. Heat to boil and adjust heat to maintain slow rolling boil
    while stirring often
12. Let wort boil for 45 minutes from the time it starts boiling
13. Add the finishing Hops
14. Boil for 3 minutes longer
15. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to carboy
16. Transfer the hot wort into the carboy
17. Prepare yeast as described in this book
18. Let mixture cool to room temperature
19. Measure and record the initial specific gravity
20. Add yeast to mixture
21. Stir mixture to distribute yeast
22. Follow fermentation and bottling processes as described in
    this book.

                       Special Light Amber

3 lbs   Amber Malt Extract or Equivalent
1 lb    Crystal Malt
1 lb    Two Row Pale-Ale Malt
1 oz    Cascade Hops (boiling)
3/4 oz  Hallertau Hops (finishing)
1 pack  (approx. 14 grams) Brewers grade Ale Yeast
3/4 cup Corn Sugar (used for priming at bottling)
1 tsp   Gypsum (Food Grade)
5 gal   Water

The following instructions summarize the steps described in the
text of this book.  Refer to the text if you are unclear as what
is meant below.

1. Crush malt grains if required
2. Add crushed grains to empty brewpot
3. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to brewpot
4. Turn stove on medium/medium high
5. Heat until small bubbles appear then reduce heat to maintain
   that temperature.
6. Let simmer for 30-45 minutes
7. Remove spent grains
8. Increase the heat setting on the stove
9. Add malt extract while stirring
10. Add boiling hops and gypsum
11. Heat to boil and adjust heat to maintain slow rolling boil
    while stirring often
12. Let wort boil for 45 minutes from the time it starts boiling
13. Add the finishing Hops
14. Boil for 3 minutes longer
15. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to carboy
16. Transfer the hot wort into the carboy
17. Prepare yeast as described in this book
18. Let mixture cool to room temperature
19. Measure and record the initial specific gravity
20. Add yeast to mixture
21. Stir mixture to distribute yeast
22. Follow fermentation and bottling processes as described in
    this book.

                       Best American Bock

6 lbs   Amber Malt Extract or Equivalent
2 lbs   Crystal Malt
1/2 lb  Chocolate Malt
1 oz    Cascade Hops (boiling)
1/2 oz  Hallertau Hops (finishing)
1/4 oz  Cascade Hops (finishing)
1 pack  (approx. 14 grams) Brewers grade Ale Yeast
3/4 cup Corn Sugar (used for priming at bottling)
1 tsp   Gypsum (Food Grade)
5 gal   Water

The following instructions summarize the steps described in the
text of this book.  Refer to the text if you are unclear as what
is meant below.

1. Crush malt grains if required
2. Add crushed grains to empty brewpot
3. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to brewpot
4. Turn stove on medium/medium high
5. Heat until small bubbles appear then reduce heat to maintain
   that temperature.
6. Let simmer for 30-45 minutes
7. Remove spent grains
8. Increase the heat setting on the stove
9. Add malt extract while stirring
10. Add boiling hops and gypsum
11. Heat to boil and adjust heat to maintain slow rolling boil
    while stirring often
12. Let wort boil for 45 minutes from the time it starts boiling
13. Add the finishing Hops
14. Boil for 3 minutes longer
15. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to carboy
16. Transfer the hot wort into the carboy
17. Prepare yeast as described in this book
18. Let mixture cool to room temperature
19. Measure and record the initial specific gravity
20. Add yeast to mixture
21. Stir mixture to distribute yeast
22. Follow fermentation and bottling processes as described in
    this book.

                    Best American Bock Light

5 lbs      Amber Malt Extract or Equivalent
1-1/2 lbs  Crystal Malt
1/4 lb     Chocolate Malt
1/2 oz     Cascade Hops (boiling)
1/2 oz     Hallertau Hops (boiling)
1/2 oz     Hallertau Hops (finishing)
1 pack     (approx. 14 grams) Brewers grade Ale Yeast
3/4 cup    Corn Sugar (used for priming at bottling)
1 tsp      Gypsum (Food Grade)
5 gal      Water

The following instructions summarize the steps described in the
text of this book.  Refer to the text if you are unclear as what
is meant below.

1. Crush malt grains if required
2. Add crushed grains to empty brewpot
3. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to brewpot
4. Turn stove on medium/medium high
5. Heat until small bubbles appear then reduce heat to maintain
   that temperature.
6. Let simmer for 30-45 minutes
7. Remove spent grains
8. Increase the heat setting on the stove
9. Add malt extract while stirring
10. Add boiling hops and gypsum
11. Heat to boil and adjust heat to maintain slow rolling boil
    while stirring often
12. Let wort boil for 45 minutes from the time it starts boiling
13. Add the finishing Hops
14. Boil for 3 minutes longer
15. Add 2-1/2 gallons of cold water to carboy
16. Transfer the hot wort into the carboy
17. Prepare yeast as described in this book
18. Let mixture cool to room temperature
19. Measure and record the initial specific gravity
20. Add yeast to mixture
21. Stir mixture to distribute yeast
22. Follow fermentation and bottling processes as described in
    this book.










                           Appendix B

                       Sample Record Sheet

                         Brewing Record

          Recipe name:_________________________________
          
          Date Brewed:__________________

          Ingredient                                    Quantity
          ____________________________________________  _________
          ____________________________________________  _________
          ____________________________________________  _________
          ____________________________________________  _________
          ____________________________________________  _________
          ____________________________________________  _________
          ____________________________________________  _________
          ____________________________________________  _________
          ____________________________________________  _________
          ____________________________________________  _________
          
          Yeast Type (Ale or Lager)_____________

          Boiling Hops Type_____________________________

          Finishing Hops Type___________________________
          
          Boiling Time:____________

          Finishing Hops Time:______________

          Initial Specific Gravity (ISG):_____________

          Specific Gravity on__________ was __________

          Specific Gravity on__________ was __________

          Specific Gravity on__________ was __________

          Bottling Date____________

          Final Specific Gravity (FSG):_______________

          Alcohol Content % by Volume = (FSG - ISG) x 131.25 


          Sampling Date:______________
          Comments:













                           Appendix C

                            Suppliers



          There are several mail order suppliers for beer making
          equipment, supplies, and ingredients.  Following are
          two sources that you may want to try.  Please note that
          I am in no way affiliated, connected, or related to
          these sources and take no responsibility for any 
          consequences that may arise as a result of any readers
          dealing with the supplied sources.  I also take no
          responsibility for the accuracy of the information
          supplied.  I recommend calling the sources and
          requesting current catalogs.


                          The Malt Shop
                         N3211 Highway S
                        Cascade, WI 53011
                          (414)528-8697
                          (800)235-0026


                        William's Brewing
                      2594 Nicholson Street
                          P.O. Box 2195
                      San Leandro, CA 94577
                          (510)895-2739
                          (800)759-6025