                              Paphiopedilum

Paphiopedilums, or slipper orchids, originate from the jungles of the Far East and
Indonesia.  They are semi-terrestrial - growing in humus and other material on the forest
floor, on cliffs in pockets and occasionally in trees.  They are easy to grow in the home,
under lights or in the greenhouse.

LIGHT is easier to provide for "paphs," as we will can them, than many other types of
orchids. They like shady conditions as in the home in an east or west window, or near a
shaded south window.  In the greenhouse, heavy shade must be provided giving them
about 1000 to 1500 foot-candIes. They are often grown under the bench, provided
precautions are taken to prevent rot. Fluorescent light is excellent; use 2 or 4 tubes just
over the leaves.

TEMPERATURES for paphs range considerably.  Many growers separate paphs into two
groups, the warm-growing, mottled-leaf types and the cool-growing, green-leaf types.
Warm-growing types should be 60 to 65 degrees F at night and 75 to 85 degrees F or
more during the day.  Cool-growing types should be 50 to 60 degrees F at night, 75 to 80
degrees F during the day.   Many growers grow all plants in the same temperature range
with excellent results. The plants can stand night temperatures in the 40's if necessary (as
when grown outside in mild climates), as well as temperatures to 95 degrees F.  Care must
be taken to provide the plants from rot when cold (keep humidity low, and do not let water
stand on leaves or in the crowns of the plants), and also to protect them from burning when
hot (shade more heavily and increase humidity and air movement).

WATER must be available at the plant's roots constantly, since they have no pseudobulbs,
and therefore store most of their water in their leaves. They need a moist medium - never
soggy, but never dry.  Water once or twice a week.  Humidity for paphs should be
moderate, between 40% and 50%, which can be maintained in the home by setting the
plants on trays of gravel partially filled with water, so that the plants never sit in water.   In
dry climates, misting (in the mornings only) can help increase humidity. In a greenhouse,
average humidity is sufficient; spraying the floor or using an evaporative cooling system
in warm climates can increase the humidity.  Air movement is essential especially when
humidity is high.

FERTILIZER must be applied on a regular schedule, but care must be taken to avoid
burning of the fleshy, hairy roots. High-nitrogen fertilizers (like 30-10-10) are recommended
when potted in any fir bark mix.  In warm weather, some growers use half-strength
applications every two weeks; others use 1/4 strength every watering.   It's important to
flush with clear water monthly to leach excess fertilizer, which can burn roots.  In cool
weather, fertilizer applications once a month are sufficient.

POTTING should be done about every two years, or as the medium decomposes.
Seedlings are often repotted annually. Mixes vary tremendously, most are fine- and/or
medium-grade fir bark, with varying additives - perlite (sponge-rock), coarse sand,
sphagnum moss, etc.  Moisture retention with excellent drainage is needed.  Divide large
plants by pulling or cutting the fans of the leaves apart, into clumps of 3 to 5 growths.
Smaller divisions will grow, but may not bloom as well. Spread the roots over a small
amount of medium in the bottom of the pot and fill with medium, so that the junction of
roots and stem is buried 1/2" deep in the center of the pot.  Do not overpot; an average
plant should have a 4" to 6" pot.