************ Topic 25 Sun Nov 25, 1990 J.PASQUINI [] at 00:12 EST Sub: Shortwave Receiver Modifications Have you modified your SW receiver to add or restore a nneeded function? Post your modifications or queries here. 234 message(s) total. ************ ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 1 Sun Nov 25, 1990 J.PASQUINI [] at 00:18 EST I'm not sure why there is no TAPE OUT on the DX-440. Maybe Realistic and/or Sangean felt it wasn't needed. Well, I think it's a good feature to have, especially when monitoring military comms in the Mid-East. I have since reinstalled this option by drilling a small hole the plastic cover over the TAPE OUT hole and putting in a 1/8" 2-conductor audio jack. One of the two leads goes to the ground, and the other goes to one of the unused TAPE OUT solder holes. Keep in mind doing such work VOIDS COMPLETELY your warranty. I have found that this gave me decent fixed-level audio output. If anyone else has done this mod, or has any other ideas, please post them. Thanks. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 2 Sun Dec 09, 1990 A.COURTNEY [Allan] at 00:59 EST Please note that GEnie and the Radio, Electronics & Broadcasting Roundtable can accept NO responsibility for and effects of modifications you may attempt on your equipment. Any modifications to equipment you may perform, you do AT YOUR OWN RISK. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 3 Sun Dec 09, 1990 K.ZICHI [Ken] at 20:09 EST with the caveat in message two firmly in mind -- let me pass on a mod to the Sony 2010 that I have tried and heartily recommend. Adding a high value (mine is 2200 uF) electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the "memory/computer" batteries is a good idea. This helps eliminate the problem of "memory wipe- out" when you move the radio as it will hold the power even when the batteries are jarred loos e for a fraction of a second. It will also allow you to change the memory batteries without loosing all the info you have programmed in .... and it is cheap and easy. Total cost is under $5, and there is a slot next to the speaker that is just perfect for fitting the cap in physically. Check out the Proceedings (88?) article or Steve Whitt's book for details on how-to. Has anyone tried the mod in Whitt's book re adding a couple of caps to get rid of the reciprocal mixing images? I'd like some info before I tear into the radio's main board .... 73 ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 4 Tue Dec 11, 1990 ROB.MOORE at 02:11 EST Regarding your mention of Bill Whitt's book on 2010 mods: Do you have any idea where I could buy a copy? Thanks. -- Rob ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 5 Tue Dec 11, 1990 H.LESTER1 [Hiram] at 19:18 EST Does anyone have any mods for the Radio Shack DX-440? This is the same radio as the Sangean ATS-803A. The DX-440 does not have the European 5-pin DIN jack for a tape recorder output. I think this would be a useful addition since it seems to have everything in place except the jack (including a hole in the case which is filled with a removable plug). Hiram ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 6 Tue Dec 11, 1990 K.ZICHI [Ken] at 21:50 EST Rob Moore -- It was Steve Whitt, and the title is "Get the Best from your Sony ICF-2001D" (Which is the 2010 moniker in the rest of the world...) My recollection is that it is available directly from the author in Gt. Britain, but I'll look around and see if I can locate a US source. Does anyone else have that info on the tip of his/her fingers? BTW -- the book is interesting, but REALLY overpriced. $16 US for a 36 page photocopied 8" x 11" booklet BUT, the info is 99 44/100 % gold, so.... ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 7 Tue Dec 11, 1990 A.COURTNEY [Allan] at 21:53 EST Hiram, I have seen a mod somewhere which will do just what you want. I cannot remember now whether it has been posted here or not. I do recall seeing it on Usenet. I'll see if that article is still available, and if so, I will pass it on in this topic. As I recall, it is fairly simple to accomplish. All you need is a willingess to open up the rig and solder the jack to the main board. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 8 Wed Dec 12, 1990 S.SLONKOSKY [Stan-KE6ZC] at 01:03 EST Rob Moore, Download the file EDXC0990.ZIP for information on ordering Steve Whitt's books. I'm going to have to order the pair myself. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 9 Wed Dec 12, 1990 ROB.MOORE at 01:46 EST Thanks for the file reference, Stan. I'd be happy to download it but if I did I wouldn't be able to read it. It's a ZIP file and I use either a Macintosh or an Apple IIGS. Is there any chance that someone would be willing to download it and upload a text version? I keep hearing good things about Steve Whitt's book on the 2010 / 2001. Regards, Rob ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 10 Wed Dec 12, 1990 H.LESTER1 [Hiram] at 19:15 EST Allan, Thanks. I would appreciate if you could find that file. As to a willingness to open it up and solder the jack on, I have already opened it up just to see what was in there and what the empty hole was for. Hiram ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 11 Wed Dec 12, 1990 A.COURTNEY [Allan] at 21:05 EST Hiram, I checked the Usenet system I call, but the article has apparently expired. I could not find it. Since you have opened up the radio and looked at the board, did you see any traces in the general area where the DIn jack should go? You could always try soldering a jack onto the board at that point. Better yet, try to find someone locally who has an 803A and take a look inside their receiver to see how it is done. If that is not possible, you might see if your local Radio Shack can order a technical manual for the 440. That might give you a clue. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 12 Wed Dec 12, 1990 K.ZICHI [Ken] at 21:57 EST rob -- There is a ZIP dicoder for the Mac (I use a Plus, and it works just fine)] so you can get access to these (and .ARC with a different decoder) files. I imagine GEnie must have the unZipper for the Mac somewhere, but I got my copy off a local Mac BBS. I still can't find the address and price, but I'll keep looking in the mean time! ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 13 Wed Dec 12, 1990 OA.VAN at 22:28 EST Rob, Maybe I could do that for you (unzip the file). Do we want that in the library or in Xmodem Email? Tom Vanderpool ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 14 Wed Dec 12, 1990 S.SLONKOSKY [Stan-KE6ZC] at 22:59 EST Sorry, Bob, I thought there were unzippers for most common computers. There doesn't seem to be any way to import files or sections of them into messages in Aladdin (as there is with Autosig and Tapcis), or I'd have done it. It looks like you have to type things in manually. In any case, here is the relevant info quoted from the September issue of "Euro DX." --- Some months ago we previewed a new publication called "Get the Best From Your Sony ICF-2001D" written by Steve Whitt. From the feedback to this interesting booklet, Steve has issued a new booklet entitled "Get Even More From Your ICF- 2001D." The new 12 page booklet contains material not previously included in the first issue such as SSB & Sync detector, Dead tuning knob, squelch and memory wipeout. The booklet is available from Steve Whitt, 21 Cauldwell Avenue, Ipswich, IP4 4EB, England. The cost is GBP 2.50 in the UK and GBP 3.00 or US$6 airmail to other parts of the world. A special deal including both booklets is available for GBP 6.00 in the UK and GBP 8.00 or US$16 airmail to the rest of the world. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 15 Wed Dec 12, 1990 A.COURTNEY [Allan] at 23:06 EST Stan, Thanks for posting that excerpt from EuroDX. As for importing files into Aladdins editor, try Control-K, Control- R. This works for me! Allan ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 16 Thu Dec 13, 1990 ROB.MOORE at 02:21 EST Ken: Thanks for the suuggestion about the unZipper for the Mac. I didn't realize there was one. I'll look aound for it. And since Stan has provided the info on Steve's book, I'm all set for now I think. Tom: Thanks for the offer but Stan was kind enough to post the relevant information I needed so I'm all set for now. I think I'll look around for a Mac unZipper now. Stan: Thanks for the information. I'll probably order Steve's books but I'm curious if you think they're worth the $.50 / page he is charging. (I'm really wondering if I have the nerve to Hack into the guts of my new 2010!) Regards, Rob ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 17 Thu Dec 13, 1990 TOMFERNANDEZ [Tom] at 02:57 EST I uploaded an "unZipper" for the Mac, in this RoundTable. I don't recall what I "named" the file, but if you use the search option at page 346, enter TOMFERNANDEZ" as the uploader and you'll find it. By the way, if you are uploading a text file which has been created on a Mac, you should first use a text munger such as Vantage or Add/Strip to add linefeeds to the file before you upload it. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 18 Thu Dec 13, 1990 K.ZICHI [Ken] at 22:04 EST Rob -- I knew someone would find the info on ordering before I would dig it out! :) I find the scariest part about tearing into the 2010 is opening the case. Once I did that once, it got a lot easier. I'd wait until the warranty ran out before I did anything to a new set tho .... Tom-- Doesn't the Unzip for the Mac have a feature to add/strip linefeeds built into its features? Or is it just strip to get rid of those nasty little boxes on the end of lines? I don't really use it all that much, but it is nice to be able to read text files that the great unwashed masses (oops -- IBM users) create without having to buy one of the machines! ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 19 Fri Dec 14, 1990 TOMFERNANDEZ [Tom] at 00:15 EST I'm pretty sure it will zap linefeeds, but I don't think it will allow you to add linefeeds to text files. Handy little utility, regardless. StuffIt Deluxe also has an unzip utility, btw. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 20 Fri Dec 14, 1990 B.MORLEY at 01:10 EST rob, there is a chapter on 2010 mods in Fine Tuning's Proceedings 1990 ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 21 Sat Dec 15, 1990 ROB.MOORE at 01:53 EST Thanks Tom. I'll search for the unzipper using your handle. Hi Ken. I agree about waiting for the warranty to expire. Might as well not throw away it's benefits. B.MORLEY (Don't know your name), Thanks for the suggestion. I hate to sound ignorant (even though I am in this case) but who or what puts out Fine Tuning's Proceedings? -- Rob ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 22 Sat Dec 15, 1990 A.COURTNEY [Allan] at 09:14 EST Rob, The Shortwave References topic has a very good intro/review of Proceedings posted by Guy Adkins. It should answer any questions about this great publication. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 23 Sat Dec 15, 1990 LLCONNER-ENT at 23:06 EST I have the DX440 and just installed the five Pin DIN connector on the PCB just as it must have been intended . The only thing you need to do is desolder the holes on the PCB and install a 5pin DIN PCB mounted connector. Everything fits in place and you now have record output. I even had a 5pin DIN connector laying around from my TI-99/4a Computer. Hope this may be of some help, and of course I am always looking for mods to the DX440 or the D2999 and even the Collins R391.* that's right a R391! LL Conner ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 24 Sun Dec 16, 1990 A.COURTNEY [Allan] at 08:54 EST LL, What are the pinouts on the DIN? ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 25 Sun Dec 16, 1990 K.ZICHI [Ken] at 20:25 EST LL Conner-- have you checked out the Hollow State Newsletter for info on your R 391? This is the rag that started out as the R 390 newsletter, but expanded its focus some time ago. I haven' t seen an issue lately, but they always had lots of good info.... ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 26 Sat Dec 22, 1990 W.ABBAY at 01:06 EST LL Conner: Have you checked for the anti-chuffing mod for the DX-440 in topic 1 of this catagory? About message 45. I had mine about 2 hours before doing it. Works just fine. --Bill ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 27 Sat Dec 22, 1990 W.ABBAY at 19:49 EST Well now I've went and done it! Just as I was buttoning up my DX-440 after installing the DIN jack discussed elsewhere in this topic, I noticed a short green wire feeding up from the main board below...but not connected to anything. It is presently hovering in the vicinity of the three solder pads that make contact with the battery power tabs on the case back. There is no obvious place for this wire to connect to. The radio appears to work without it except the PLL whine seems slightly louder. Should any of you DX-440'ers out there find yourself rooting around inside your radio, I would be grateful if you could take notice of where this little green wire connects to and maybe make note of it here on this topic. Meanwhile, I'll tape it up to keep sparks from happening. Thanks in aadvance. --Bill ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 28 Sun Dec 23, 1990 M.BUSH1 [Mike] (Forwarded) Allan: Thank you. It was in the library, and it is now on the hard drive. In case anyone else wants it, I will try to resubmit it. Category 3, Topic 1 Message 11 Sun Dec 02, 1990 R.SAVORY at 02:30 EST OK, Here is the mod for the DX440: Set the unit face down with the tuning knob to your left and remove the back. Locate the pc board over the speaker(on the right). Locate the point where the 8 conductor ribbon cable connects to this board. The cable is at the left edge of the board. Now, counting from the top "pin" locate the second "pin". This is the point to disconnect. It is best to follow the trace from here to the point where it ends- to your right and a little past the middle of the board. This is where it connects to a jumper, and is the safest place to unsolder. NOTE: When counting "pins" at the ribbon cable, do not be confused by the solder pad just above it-do not count that as #1. After unsoldering the proper point, use the radio for awhile in all it's various modes and in particular, scan mode. If you don't like the loss of muting or just don't like the result of this mod it is a simple matter to resolder the pin, and nobody will ever know ! your comments on the results would be appreciated. I have been using my DX440 this way for a few days now and much prefer it to "stock". Ouch! That didn't turn out so well, did it? Oh, well, thanks for your help. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 29 Thu Dec 27, 1990 A.COURTNEY [Allan] at 11:09 EST Article 2402 of rec.radio.shortwave: Path: lunatix!ukma!hsdndev!wuarchive!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!epicb!davids From: davids@epicb.truevision.com (David Spoelstra) Newsgroups: rec.radio.shortwave Subject: Sony 2010 mods Message-ID: <1990Dec26.185051.13285@truevision.com> Date: 26 Dec 90 18:50:51 GMT Sender: davids@truevision.com (David Spoelstra) Organization: Truevision Inc., Indianapolis, IN Lines: 20 I just made a mod to my 2010 that works great! I replaced the wide filter with a Murata CFW455HT which is 6/18 KHz at 6/50 dB. The audio is perfect. I have quit using my active audio filter now that I have made this mod. I also replaced the narrow filter with a Murata CFJ455K5 which is 2.4/4.5 KHz at 6/60 dB. This filter really helps out when listening to CW and SSB. Now for my question: I want to increase the Tape Out level. Several articles I have read talk about changing R200 and R201. In looking at the schematics, this makes since. What I am worried about is where the signal ends up and how does changing the levels affect the circuit. Essentially, the signal comes from the AM/FM amp, goes through a couple of resistors where the Tape Out is tapped off, and then goes into pin 8 on the NEC7503 microprocessor! Pin 8 is one bit of a 4-bit I/O port. Does anyone understand how this part of the circuit works or what it does?? Thanks, David Spoelstra davids@truevision.com uunet!epicb!davids I thought that 2010 owners here in the RT might be interested in this Usenet article on improving the selectivity of the 2010. Radio West used to perform similar mods to the 2010 for a substantial fee (and may still do them). Those of you who are technically inclined, might want to give these your consideration. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 30 Mon Dec 31, 1990 E.BYINGTON [Elton, N2KXT] at 13:40 EST There's an interesting article in the January issue of 73 magazine that shows the design of a phase-locked loop that uses the horizontal oscillator in a TV set to derive a super-accurate frequency standard. I think the same circuit could be adapted to control an oscillator for a synchronous detector in a radio receiver. The design in the article used a ferrite loopstick to pick up the TV's horizontal sweep oscillator, which, in turn, is phase locked to the TV station's sweep rate and, eventually, to the networks' rubidium frequency standard. Through the use of Schmitt traggers, divider stages and a PLL chip, the sweep frequency is used to control a 1 MHz voltage-controlled oscillator with exceptionally high accuracy. I think the same principle can be used to directly sample the 455 kHz IF of a radio receiver and control a 455 kHz oscillator for injection into the product detector of a receiver. The product detector would then become a synchronous detector. Any thoughts on the subject? 73, Elton ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 31 Tue Jan 15, 1991 R.COOK2 [Ralph Cook] at 22:38 EST Not really sure if this is a "modification", so if I need to ask elsewhere, let me know. I have a Sangean 803a and a Sangean SG-789 (Emerson PSW-4010). The SG-789 is a nice little portable, but the one I have has a little problem in some of its SW bands; namely, the numbers on the dial have little basis in reality. Some are kind of off, some are more off. I thought I would take it apart and see if there was some way to adjust and calibrate the tuning, using the 803A as a reference. Well, there were little screw-thingies inside like you see in radios, all right, but there seemed to be about 10, or one for each band (good) with no labelling for which one went with which band (bad). Before I blindly twiddle I was wondering if anyone knew which screw went with which band or at least where I might could find out. Thanks, Ralph ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 32 Tue Jan 15, 1991 W.ABBAY [Bill] at 22:49 EST Ralph, What you want to do is a thing called "alignment". This is best done by someone with the technical information on radio and the specialized equipment to do the job. If you don't, you should not try. Also, alignment of an analog radio is at best a compromise. Even the "high tech" analog super sets of the 60's and 70's were never spot on across the whole dial. Their inexpensive modern offspring can't be expected to. --Bill ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 33 Sat Jan 19, 1991 J.MARCINIAK at 14:28 EST LL Conner, , & everyone - I called Sangean about the fact that the DX440 doesn't have a tape out in place. They claim Radio Shack complained about loading problems, so they left it out of the 440. I tried the idea of putting in a 1/8" audio jack, but couldn't detect a signal from ground to any of the other 4 solder traces on the PC board. I finally settled on paralleling the headphone output traces, which works for me because of using an attenuated patch cord to my tape recorder. I don't like this way of connecting because it removes audio from one channel on my headphones when I have them both connected. Anyone got a suggestion about why I don't get a signal on those 4 tape out solder pads? I can't locate a 5-pin DIN PC-mount connector locally - here in Vermont we don't have many electronics stores - cows I can get, diodes I can't |:-( The only thing I come up with is the fact that I was using an old Simpson VOM on 2.5 VDC scale to check for signal - if the output was small enough, I suppose I might have missed it! Joe, you mention using "one of the unused TAPE OUT solder holes" - any idea which one? Looks to me like they have resistors to attenuate the signal connected to the traces running from several of those solder holes! HELLLLP! ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 34 Wed Jan 23, 1991 R.AMIRAULT [Richard] at 19:34 EST J.MARCINIAK thanks for calling Sangean about the DX-440 tape out jack. I'm having the same problem with my attempt to restore the tape out feature. I got the radio apart. Spotted what MUST be the connect points on the PC board, but no combination of those five points give me any signal into my tape deck. (Just to be sure I tested the recorder/wire combination with my old analog portable which HAS a tape out jack and it works perfectly with that old radio) [ by the way, I did have the radio running when I t [D [D [D [D [D [D [D [D [D [D [D [D [D [D [C [C [C [C [C [C DX-440 running when I tried the connections ] I've just sent J.PASQUINI an EMail message to see if he can shed some more light on how he seems to have gotten his mod to work. I used EMail because he may not be checking in to THIS particular section (THERE ARE SOOOOO MANY OF THEM, ARN'T THERE) any longer. If I have any luck I'll let you know. My only other thought is to try to find a PC mounted DIN jack to install, a-la Sangean (but I'd really like to use an RCA jack) Richard ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 35 Thu Jan 24, 1991 W.WAGNER at 02:04 EST Howdy All. I Have performed the tape out mod to my DX440 and thought i had no output as well. There is in fact output (In stereo where applicable i might add) It seems that it is a mic level output in accordance with the Deutsche standard Hence the name D.I.N. It seems to be about 10 to15 millivolts versus the 500 or so millivolts that you get with a LINE OUT By the way. I used the cassette din jack from an old tandy color computer and the plug in cord I took from an old Commodore 64 Monitor cord. Once i had the din installed and placed the cover on, you could not tell it from a factory job. Hope this helps. Bye Bye! ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 36 Thu Jan 24, 1991 J.MARCINIAK [Jim] at 21:01 EST Richard, I would rather use the RCA too, but Sangean said NOOOO! (don't know why). Come to think of it, the 5-pin may be a better way...Those resistors on the PC board may give you the option to attenuate the signal by varying ammounts. That would sure be a great feature, cause it's sure easy to over drive the input to a tape deck. I had that problem on a DX300 a few years back, and had to find an attenuated patch cord. I'm still using the parallel connection on the earphone connections on the PC board...it works, but I don't wanna leave it that way! ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 37 Thu Jan 24, 1991 G.PUPURS [Gary in IL] at 22:43 EST W.WAGONER, what pins are the audio output on the DIN plug??? ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 38 Fri Jan 25, 1991 W.WAGNER at 01:05 EST Gary, I Believe that pins 3 and 4 are the ones you need. I don,t have the radio here at the office but will check and reply for certain s ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 39 Fri Jan 25, 1991 J.MARCINIAK [Jim] at 21:11 EST W.Wagner - The problem with the 5-pin DIN is that I live in Vermont - land of the free, and home of the cow. If you can't buy it at Radio Shack, you ain't gonna buy it, unless you do a mail order...and R.S. don't carry 5-pin DIN's that are meant to be PCB mounted. If you (or anyone here) has a good address to order the proper animal, I sure would be grateful for the info.... ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 40 Sat Jan 26, 1991 G.ALVEY at 02:46 EST Jim - You might try Digi-Key (Thief River Falls, MN) for mail order parts. They have a toll free order number (800)-344-4539. You might try calling them to see if you can get a catalog from them. My catalog has 5-pin DIN connectors for PCB mounting (90 degrees) on page 19 - Digi-Key part number A1663 for $3.32 each. I don't see a lot about the size of the thing, but you could probably call to get more info. Hope this helps, Greg A. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 41 Sat Jan 26, 1991 J.MARCINIAK [Jim] at 12:35 EST Thanks Greg! I'll give them a call, and see what they can do for me...I would really like to get this fixed up - I'm a little PO'd at Radio Shack for messing with an otherwise fine little radio! ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 42 Sat Jan 26, 1991 W.WAGNER at 14:13 EST J.Marciniak, If you have a Radio Shack Nearby- Just order a Pcb Mounted D.I.N Connector for a Radio Shack Color Computer Cassette Interface Port. It' s the same thing that worked for me. Cheers. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 43 Sat Jan 26, 1991 W.WAGNER at 17:38 EST 015 Volts A.C.). One person previously was trying to measure with a D.C. Setting which doesn't work very well. This Connection drives a microphone input very well. It is independent of the volume control which is nice for late night recording, and it will put out F.M. Stereo when the stereo - Mono switch is set for stereo. Cheers ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 44 Sat Jan 26, 1991 W.WAGNER at 18:11 EST OK Kids, Here It Is. The Pinouts for the DX-440 Record-Out Project. Locating Hole -[] N.C. - O O - Audio Left N.C. - O O - Audio Right Ground --- O This Diagram is looking At The Face Of The Receptacle after installation. BTW.. This makes a very tidy installation. You cannot even tell it was installed by anyone but the factory. The standard D.I.N. Connector fits up flush with the case. Mind you that the output is LOW LEVEL. That is to say on the order of 15 to 20 Millivolts. (.015 Volts A.C.). One person previously was trying to measure with a D.C. Setting which doesn't work very well. This Connection drives a microphone input very well. It is independent of the volume control which is nice for late night recording, and it will put out F.M. Stereo when the stereo - Mono switch is set for stereo. Cheers *s *s ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 45 Sun Jan 27, 1991 R.AMIRAULT [Richard] at 03:49 EST Yes, I've just completed the DIN jack installation on my DX 440, and everything in the last few messages is right on. The hardest part of the whole project is getting the right part. I found mine at computer show/flea market today ($1.50) It fit perfectly, and works perfectly too! But, repeating what others have said, the output is MIKE LEVEL not line level. The next hardest part is getting from DIN into your recorder. I was lucky. I had a DIN cable from a Commodore VIC 20 (ouch!) with a five pin DIN on one end and four RCA plugs on the other end. All I had to do was find which two to use, slip a RCA to 1/4" adaptor on the end of each, then plug right in the MIC jacks of my tape deck. By the way have you noticed that the component cassette decks available these days SELDOM HAVE MIKE JACKS ANYMORE! Also, I'd like to warn everyone thinking of this modification that it will, of course, VOID YOUR WARRENTY. So keep that in mind. I almost purchased the extended warrenty, now I'm glad I didn't. << Richard >> ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 46 Sun Jan 27, 1991 H.STANDO [Henry] at 19:46 EST This is directed to the more technical people here (nothing personal) - I have a Hallicrafters S-85 reciever (yes-an oldie but still seems to be a doody) .Can anyone tell me if I can modify it to be more stable-that is drift less. It seems to do pretty good but even after a long warmup (it's a tube set) it still tends to drift.I have the manual which includes the schematic,parts lis,alignment instructions.ANY info would be appreciated. Henry ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 47 Tue Jan 29, 1991 W.ABBAY [Bill] at 00:39 EST To all re: source of PCB mount DIN jacks: Look any Radio-TV-Stereo repair shop or parts distributers who cater to such. That's where I found mine. --Bill ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 48 Sat Feb 02, 1991 LLCONNER-ENT at 18:20 EST I havn't been able to answer questions about the Record output mod for the DX440. But I see other's have given the correct information about the pin outs and such. I am planning to try the muting mod next. I would like to replace the antenna RCA jack with a RG58 connector, looking for the right connector to mount just as the RCA is mounted. Anyone have a Magnavox D2999? Always looking for improvements for my radios. Also, I picked up a AudioTon model RA100 while in germany this year to use while We were traveling, for the 65 dollars I paid, it's not a bad radio. It doesn't seem to have a switch to change the frequency step from 9k to 10k. if anyone has any ideas on this Mod please leave a message. Sure hope to see new and interesting Mods for Radios in the future! Larry Conner ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 49 Sun Feb 03, 1991 ROB.MOORE at 01:19 EST I've seen those MW Step size switch es buried in the battery compartment under the batteries in at least a couple of cases. Maybe yours is too? ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 50 Sun Feb 03, 1991 S.DUNCAN3 [Steve Duncan] at 12:27 EST Does anyone know if there is an anti-chuffing mod for the sony 2010? It doesn't seem to 'chuff' all of the time, but when it does it can be very annoying! ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 51 Sun Feb 03, 1991 A.COURTNEY [Allan (KY)] at 13:54 EST The chuffing on the Sony 2010 is really only a problem when you leave Sych engaged. If you want to tune across the band, try turning off the synch until you find something you want to listen to for a while. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 52 Fri Feb 08, 1991 L.KATZ [Larry] at 20:12 EST Should I add a DIN jack for my DX-440 if my tape deck has auto level control? ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 53 Fri Feb 08, 1991 J.MARCINIAK [Jim (NVT)] at 22:57 EST Larry - Are you sure your auto level control works with an EXT MIKE input? I think having the DIN plug is a worthwhile mod. in any case, but I have auto level control on my deck, but it's overridden when you plug in an external mic input. -Jim ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 54 Sun Feb 10, 1991 BARRY.KNAPP at 22:01 EST To all: A few weeks ago there was a post here on Steve Whitt's book about mods for the Sony ICF-2010/2001D. It was mentioned in the Sep 1990 issue of Euro DX magazine, which is in the R&E library under the file name EDXC0990.TXT. Here is one important update to the information provided there: The price (from the U.S.) for this booklet (actually two booklets, I think) is $16.00 airmail, but you must pay by International Postal Money Order or CASH-- Mr. Whitt cannot accept checks. I know, because I ordered the books and he returned my check and asked me to post this message to clarify this matter. Barry Knapp, Lafayette CO ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 55 Mon Feb 11, 1991 K.ZICHI [Ken - MI] at 23:56 EST Barry -- Thanks for the update. The issue of cheques was not always the case if I remember correctly. He musta gotten burned and is now "careful" ;). At any rate, the book is pricey in terms of pages / dollar, but not in terms of information / dollar. If you are a tinkerer, I'd recommend it. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 56 Wed Feb 13, 1991 L.KATZ [Larry] at 19:11 EST Well my stereo doesn't have any mic inputs. I usually switch between my CD player and my SW radio. I don't know if the auto line level is overidden. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 57 Wed Feb 20, 1991 W.HAGEN1 at 05:54 EST gday all did the modifications listed here. to the dx 44o Best bet is to use a pcb mounted din 5 pin jack, to give the tape out capability. Radio shack didnt stock it, only had the chassis mounted din, not the right piece. I got the pcb mounted din at a place called Dow Electronicss in Goleta Ca. It is a common piece and should be everywhere except where cowws are .The best thing to do is buy the pcb mounted dinjack and the correct connector at the same time as there can be pin configuration differences. The pcb (printed circuit board) din fits right in the holes on the board, all that has to be done is melt the solder covering the holes and insert the din jack. With the mark at the top, and going clockwise, pin1 left audio aou pin2 right audio out pin3 ground pin4 not used pin5 not used Hooked it up to the stereo mic input on my cassett recorder, did just fine. Anybody have any idea what the extra two pins do I would like to see a message. Also, nothing special here, seems as though any type of jack phone plug, etc. would do the job as long as the hot and ground wires were connected properly. I also disconnected the jumper that controls the anti chuffing function, easy to do just find the the eight wire ribbon connector that connects to the circuit board above the speaker, disconnect wire number two , counting from the top. A more detailed description of this is a follows. turn the dx440 upside down, take off the back, with the tuning knob on your left, the circuit board over the speaker on your right. the eight wire ribbon connector connects to the left side of the circuit board over the speaker. Wire number 2 is the second wire in the ribbon from the top,the top being the side of the ribbon closest to the top of the radio. The wire is soldered to the circuit board on the underside of the board, so the board has to be lifted up very carefully to unsolder the wire at this point. A better placs to make the disconnection is to follow the circuit board from the place where the number 2 wire connects, to the other end of the "trace" and unsolder one end of the jumper , a short little wire that that connects the other end of the trace (printed circuit) to another trace on the board. This disconnection is much easier to make and much easier treplace if desired. I would like to see a thorough discussion of what this chuffing or antichuffing modification really accomplishes, as maybe my tuner is now a little more sensitive, but it could just be my imiganination., so, some good comments by a pro would be really appreciated. By the way, Im doing my swl'ing from Goleta CA, near Santa BarBara, and it is tough to hear alot of the freqs from here. any suggestions from local listeners would be much appreciated.. thanks, Bill hagen W.HAGEN1 ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 58 Wed Feb 20, 1991 D.WILLIAMSO4 at 08:17 EST I also did the anti-chuffing mod but did it in a different way. If you follow the connection back down the ribbon cable, the cable PLUGS into the main board. If you very carefully remove the cable by lifting it out of the clamps, all you have to do is bend the wire out of the way and re-insert the cable. No soldering required and very easy to put back to stock. I'm not sure if all the dx-440's are built like this as mine is over 2 years old. Did they change them? ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 59 Fri Feb 22, 1991 R.AMIRAULT [Richard] at 00:11 EST For those who are looking for the 5 pin PC mount DIN jack...... Having found mine at a local computer show/flea market and installed it in my DX440, I'll help out a few of you still looking for the part. There is another computer show/flea market this Sat (2 days from now). If I find any more, I'll buy a dozen and sell them at cost plus shipping/handling to anyone wanting to make the modification to thier radio. I'm only planning to get a dozen because I don't know how big the demand is and I'll probibly get stuck with a bunch I can't unload If anyone is interested send me E-Mail, and if I find some saturday, I'll let you know what the cost will be. If anyone is reading this message months from now, you can give it a shot too, who knows I just may have some left. E-Mail to R.AMIRAULT << Richard >> ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 60 Sat Feb 23, 1991 W.HAGEN1 at 00:14 EST for those of you doing the anti- chuff modification, a nice way to do it is to instead of just disconnecting the leads, mount a switch on the case somewhere (drill a small hole) and hook the switch across the place you made the disconnection. This gives added flexibility. What this mod does is allows you to listen to all the stations on the band when scanning, not just the one that is powerful enough to cause the scanner to stop. Even though the stations are not powerful enough to stop the scanning you can hear them go by, and can go back and find them. This is much better than the original condition for finding stations. bye ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 61 Sat Feb 23, 1991 R.SAVORY at 22:52 EST In response to the question of what the anti chuff mod actually does: I am the guy who discovered this trick and originaly posted it some months ago. I noticed that the chuffing was heard with the volume all the way down, thus it was obvious that the cause was audio muting at the AUDIO OUTPUT stage. I then merely found the output ic, and poking around with a 'scope while turning the tuning knob led me to the pin on the output ic where the muting was being done. The reason my description of the mod leads you to disconnect at a jumper was to minimize the risk of damage to the radio. It would have benn easier to say "unsolder pin # x and such". No, this alteration to your radio can not make it more sensitive as the circuit being changed is only the audio output section. The Idea of adding a switch is certainly reasonable, I cosidered doing this to my DX-440 originally, but decided to wait till warr. expiration as I don't know how I would reverse the cabinet modifications that would be needed to mount a switch.(Just in case the unit were to need service under warrenty.) ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 62 Sun Feb 24, 1991 D.RENNIE at 00:53 EST W.ABBAY: I remembered reading your post, but since I had never had the back of my DX-440 off, your question about the green wire didn't mean anything to me. Today, however, I opened my DX-440 to perform the anti-chuff mod, and there was the green wire! Mine was attached, though, so here is a diagram for you to refer to in order to determine where to reattach yours: | | _ ---------------------------o \ ---------------------------o \ ---------------------------o \ ---------------------------o \_____ 8-WIRE RIBBON CABLE, WITH ---------------------------o / "o" = SOLDER POINTS ON SMALL ---------------------------o / CIRCUIT CARD ABOVE SPEAKER ---------------------------o / ---------------------------o _/ (EDGE OF CURCUIT CARD)--> | | O <----- SOLDER POINT (IGNORE) -----------------------------OOO <----- WHITE WIRE ATTACHED HERE --------------------------------OOO <--- GREEN WIRE (YOUR LOOSE ONE) -----------------------------OOO <----- RED WIRE ATTACHED HERE ___________| | | I hope this helps you out. ...............Dave Rennie ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 63 Sun Feb 24, 1991 W.HAGEN1 at 02:50 EST response to r.savory. Good point on the warrenty consideration, but I also added the recorder out din connector which I believe zaps the warranty, so I decided to put in the switch. By the way, thanks for figuring this chuffing thing out for the rest of us , a nice modification and improvement. Bye ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 64 Sun Feb 24, 1991 G.GOLDBAUM [gary wb6zif] at 14:19 EST R.Savory: That was nice info but I think some of us would like to know technically what is cuffing. Is it some kind of Squelch circuit that kicks in when you start the scan? Thanks gary 8-) ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 65 Sun Feb 24, 1991 ABERCROMBIE [Mike = SKs] at 18:23 EST <<==- Chuffing Mod -==>> Allow me to add my thanks as well for the chuffing mod. Definitely a worthwhile "enhancement". I have noticed that there is now a highpitched tone or some sort of audio discharge when keying a freq in, especially to a strong station and when first turning the receiver on. Is this normal? <<==- Mike, sKs -==>> ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 66 Sun Feb 24, 1991 J.WILSON59 [J.W.] at 21:20 EST Mike Abercrombie - I note the same symptomology on my chuff-modified DX-440. It was there before the mod, but nowhere near as prevalent. I find it's stonger on AC than it is on battery power. But I still find it a small inconvenience when compared to the overall benefit of the chuff mod. NNNN ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 67 Sun Feb 24, 1991 G.PUPURS [Gary in N.IL] at 22:37 EST Wel, I just did the anti-chuffing mod today, and it was VERY easy and well worth it. I especially like hearing the freqs being scanned when ion scan mode, because sometimes the scan will miss something. Also, as someone previously suggested, I didn't unsolder the jumper, but just bent the 2nd wire of the ribbon cable out of the socket on the main pcb. Believe me, ANYONE can do this, and there is no need for a soldering iron, just a screwdriver and 5 minutes. To those of you who didnt see the description of this before, here is how to do it: 1. Set the radio face down, unscrew the 6 screws holding the case together and take off the case. 2. Locate the 6 wire ribbon wire connecting the two PC boards and follow it to the left, untill it goes into the connector on the main board. 3. Gently pull the ribbon cable from the connector, and bend the second wire from the left at a right angle to the cable. 4. Carefully reinsert the ribbon cable into the connector, making sure that the 2nd wire from the left doesnt go into its socket. 5. Put the case back on, screw the 6 screws back in, and turn on the radio, noting the lack of the annoying 'chuff' between frequency changes! Now was that really that hard?? :-) Gary ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 68 Sun Feb 24, 1991 ABERCROMBIE [Mike = SKs] at 23:19 EST J.W., I agree that it is a small price to pay. I just wanted to be sure I hadn't screwed something up . A good friend, Jim Marciniak, suggested pulling the 8-wire ribbon from its socket on the circuit board and bend the 2nd wire from the left back and reinsert the remaining 7 wires back into the socket. Total time, 5 min with most of that taking the batteries and back off. No soldering and easily restores to original for warenty work. Radio face down tunning knob to the left and the circuit board is NOT the one over the speaker. Seems like this method was also discussed here but I wasn't sure. Mike ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 69 Sun Feb 24, 1991 R.CUFF [Richard/EPA] at 23:24 EST Mike/SKS: My '803 produces that sound - it's around 1200 hz, I'd guess. Never bothered to worry much about it. 73 DE Richard, Allentown, PA ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 70 Mon Feb 25, 1991 R.SAVORY at 23:32 EST I just pulled the back off my DX-440, and re-examined the cable. I never noticed that there was a socket there. Oh well, at least I got us all to the right circuit point. I would certainly recommend the anti-chuff mod using the method listed in message 67. BTW: I don't profess to know how the muting circuit actually works, as I have no service manual. RE the "poing" sound when tuning near strong signals- my unit does the same thing, but I just figure "whaddaya want for a hundred fifty bucks ?" and live with it. just re-read that- perhaps ping is a better description than poing. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 71 Tue Feb 26, 1991 J.WILSON59 [J.W.] at 22:35 EST R. Savory I thinks it's more of a "tweeng" than a "poing" or a "ping". Whatever it is, I find it unobtrusive. Unless its two a.m. and the kids trying to sleep in the room next door, then I turn the volume down before changing stations. NNNN ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 72 Tue Feb 26, 1991 G.GOLDBAUM [gary wb6zif] at 22:41 EST Is that why they put in the cuffing circuit? To eliminate Ping, Poing Tweeng. gary ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 73 Wed Feb 27, 1991 R.CUFF [Richard/EPA] at 20:20 EST No. Ping, Poing, and Tweeng are the three top advisers in the Chinese government cabinet... :*) Richard, Allentown, PA Also, it's a CHUFFING circuit, not a CUFFING circuit...or, perhaps I could get 'em on tradename (or last name!) infringement... ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 74 Thu Feb 28, 1991 E.BERRIOS at 06:31 EST I just made the anti-chuffing modification last night and even though I only had a few minutes to play with the radio before going on and tackling my 1040 (it's that time of the year again), I was not very satisfied with the mod. I have two complaints. The first one is that I seem to be receiving interference from other stations whenever the radio stops at a strong station. Another complaint is that the radio stops at a station ocassionally and a second of two later it keeps scanning. I will check it out in more detail later and decide whether I will keep that mod or not. I used the method of pulling the wire from the connector, rather than de-soldering anything and it was a piece of cake. It took me between 5 to 10 minutes to open the radio, disconnect that one wire and put the radio back together. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 75 Thu Feb 28, 1991 NA5E [LARRY-Sysop] at 08:15 EST I think CUFFING is the French word. You need CUFF LINKS to make it work. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 76 Thu Feb 28, 1991 P.YANT [Philip] at 18:05 EST Long, long ago (see date), I logged this from the FIDOnet. This modification for the DX440/Sangean ATS803a seems aimed at the noise that people are reporting above. I have never had the courage, or confidence in my electronic skills, to try this, so I'm just passing it on for those who do. .Article 9184 in rec.ham-radio: .From: Bob_Voelker@UB.CC.UMICH.EDU .Date: 29 Jan 89 02:10:00 GMT .Organization: The Internet I purchased the Radio Shack DX-440 shortwave receiver about a year ago and have been so pleased with its performance that I use it for casual listening rather than my Drake TR7 transceiver. It is similar to the ATS-803A except that the DIN audio output jack is replaced with a plastic snap-in cap covering the hole. The antenna jack is a phono-type, whereas the Sangean may use another connector. Some of the DX-440 circuit boards are even stamped ATS-803A. I have made only one modification to the DX-440, while under warranty--of course! With the Radio Shack power cube, the receiver produced lots of annoying hum while the volume control was set low. This could be solved by adding a huge electrolytic capacitor across the DC power line in the radio. I instead cut a trace on the audio amplifier board and rerouted a ground path to avoid a ground loop. This reduced the hum significantly. It's hard to describe the location of the foil cuts in words, expecially since I can't remember the exact location and I'm too lazy to unscrew the back of the radio. Perhaps the power pack that comes with the ATS-803A produces less AC ripple than does the Radio Shack model. Two modifications I would like to eventually add are 1) extend the low frequency coverage down to 0 kHz instead of just 150 kHz, and 2) extend the low-frequency functioning of the external antenna jack to below 1600 kHz. Adding feature 1) would require experimenting with the microprocessor in the hope of tricking it to generate frequency commands below 150 kHz. Two shortcomings of the receiver are 1) even with the volume control set at zero, there is an annoying hiss coming from the audio amplifier, which is very distracting when listening to soft music, and 2) strong signals overload the receiver, causing a shift in the BFO tone and mushy, warbly-sounding CW signals. I recommend purchasing Radio Shack's $15, sixty-page service manual before attempting any circuit modifications. . Bob Voelker . Solid-State Electronics Lab . EECS Building . The University of Michigan . Ann Arbor, MI 48109-2122 USA --- TBBS v2.0 * Origin: ANARC BBS - Assoc. of North American Radio Clubs (309) 688-0604 (232/11) ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 77 Thu Feb 28, 1991 R.CUFF [Richard/EPA] at 22:05 EST CUFFING? French? Sacre Bleu! My father told me our last name was either English or Irish...8*) Richard CUFF, Allentown, PA ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 78 Thu Feb 28, 1991 J.WILSON59 [J.W.] at 22:57 EST Philip - I don't think that's the same noise your info was addressing. It spoke more of "low hums" and "warbly CW", whereas we're hearing a ping or poing or tweeng. Very short in duration. NNNN ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 79 Sat Mar 02, 1991 W.ABBAY [Bill] at 00:32 EST D.RENNIE , Thanks for the note on the "green wire". Another visitor to the RT, Edwin Berrios also was kind enough to help. I have it soldered back in place. Appears to be a ground. Thanks, though. Bill ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 80 Sat Mar 02, 1991 M.MITCHELL36 at 18:33 EST I'm thinking of building a BFO for a little analog receiver I have, but the plans (from one of the mags, can't `member which one) call for installing a transformer gleaned from an old radio. I can get the trnasformer OK, but I can't remember how to tell the primary terminals from the secondary terminals. When I was 12 I would have known, but have been away from such stuff for a while. Any help appreciated. Michael ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 81 Sat Mar 02, 1991 K.ZICHI [Ken - MI] at 20:30 EST Michael -- Is it a step up or step down transformer? The *easiest* way is to make the (sometimes) rash assumption that the black leads are the primary. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 82 Sat Mar 02, 1991 M.MITCHELL36 at 20:48 EST Ken, I really don't know, but will get the thing out of the radio tonight and check it out. Prob is, the transformer I am going to use is surface mounted. Yipes! ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 83 Tue Mar 05, 1991 S.FRIEDLAND1 [STEVE] at 20:23 EST Does anybody have any personal experience or know of anyone who has undergone Radio West's DX filter mod. for the Sony 2010? Feedback? --Steve ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 84 Thu Mar 07, 1991 DAWSON-PHOTO [Bob Marcy] at 00:09 EST I'd like to second Steve's request for info. I just picked up my new 2010 and love it's capabilities but the W I D E filter is as big as a barn door! Does anyone have the phone number for Radio West and the specs for the stock Sony filter versus the Radio West replacement. I might add that KIWA, the makers of the MAP accessory, will mail you a solder in filter replacement with instructions for $14. Anyone with experience with this filter mod? Bob M. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 85 Thu Mar 07, 1991 G.ATKINS1 [GUY ATKINS] at 23:13 EST Bob Marcy: I'm the one who suggested to Kiwa Electronics that they offer a replacement wide filter for 2010 owners. Kiwa already stocked various NTK filters used in their Multiband AM Pickup (MAP) receiver accessory. Craig Siegenthaler of Kiwa is a friend of mine, and I knew that one of the filters in particular would make a nice upgrade for the "wide" filter in the Sony. I've used this replacement filter in my own 2010 for a couple months now, and I think it is a great improvement over stock. Its better shape factor and ultimate rejection figure helps cut QRM from adjacent channel interference, a definite improvement over the stock wide filter. Kiwa has run performance tests on both the stock and upgrade filters, and they have the filter-plots (graphs) that clearly show the differences. More important, though, is that your ears can hear the difference. I find the audio bandwidth quite acceptable with the new filter. It's not that the new filter is THAT much narrower than the stock one, but that it is of higher quality. Craig at Kiwa firmly believes that NTK filters are generally better than the Murata brand which is found in the stock 2010 (Murata is the brand offered by Radio West, I think). Kiwa has tested other widths of NTK filters and has found them to surpass equivalent Murata filter widths. Personally, I think the $14 for Kiwa's filter kit is a bargain for do-it- yourselfers. It shouldn't take anyone familiar with soldering basics much longer than 1/2 hr. to replace the filter in the 2010, following Kiwa's instructions & diagram. It's a direct, pin-for-pin replacement. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 86 Thu Mar 07, 1991 ABERCROMBIE [Mike = SKs] at 23:21 EST <<==- DX-370 HELP -==>> A friend of mine has a problem with the DX-370. He was using a longwire antenna and after clipping it to the whip tip one day, it went kinda dead. I'm almost sure that this was caused by static build-up in the longwire but there is one strange thing about this. He only lost the upper band (9500 to 2175 khz). The lower band (3200 to 7650 I think SW1) is still alive and well. On SW2 (the one he lost) he says that all he hears is a hiss with the volume turned all the way up. What does this sound like to those of you experienced with these or any radio? Is there a chance that it can be repaired for less than the cost of a new unit? Considering the availability of these receivers these days, I think he is seriously contemplating repairs. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Mike ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 87 Fri Mar 08, 1991 DAWSON-PHOTO [Bob Marcy] at 01:41 EST As an American transplanted to Montreal, Canada I hate to hear this. I have learned that, in the vernacular, "RCI puts out a good signal". Perhaps all is not as it seems...but remember that 3/4's of the members of Parliament would need to have the THEORY of shortwave explained to them before they could grasp the function of RCI ! To most, RCI will seem a novelty and a place to conserve monies for the war effort. To Frank I have to say that the F-18's will ALWAYS fly. The government/people will never allow the Canadian Forces to die. Your hours may be cut but Canadian sovereignty is too important (especially up north, which is another question). But RCI could easily be eliminated or reduced to buying three hour slots on the VOA (government funded, of course). I urge you *all* to write do it now! Its worldwide you know. SW is usually government funded and the first area to suffer cuts in a recession such as this. Incidently, the Minister for Communications in Canada is The Honorable Marcel Masse. Even if our government was not considering elimination of RCI, your letters might prevent present or future cuts deep enough to cripple the service. Guy, Thanks for the quick reply. Interestingly enough, Craig is now located in my old hometown of Yakima, Washington. Makes me feel I should order the filter right away. I talked to him by phone and he was quite helpful. Seems he can't keep up with the orders for the MAP. Something about the war.... Bob M. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 88 Fri Mar 08, 1991 K.ZICHI [Ken - MI] at 19:53 EST Mike -- re the 370: it almost sounds like there is an input coil or circuit that is not shared by the two bands that got fried. Without a schematic tho, I can't be much help. The first step is to get the service manual and see what circuits are NOT used by both bands, and go from there. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 89 Fri Mar 08, 1991 ABERCROMBIE [Mike = SKs] at 21:39 EST Ken, I got the DX-370 today from my friend and noticed that the batteries seemed weak. Out of the four "AA"'s three were slightly less than 1.5v and the fourth was barely 1 v. I put in new ones and tried SW2. At first I got loud static on WWV and no audio signal. I switched to SW1 and had a very clear reception of some station and scanned around a little on SW1 with no problems. I then switched back to SW2 and had a great signal on Netherlands and WWV. However, after scanning around for a while the problem resurfaced. Switching back and forth to SW1 once more cleared it up. Doesn't loose the signal except for rare occasions while scanning and I hven't had it happen when I just leave it on a good station. It's definitely got a problem, but it is not a serious as I had originally posted here. I will leave it up to my friend as to what he wants to do, but, I think that it is a small defect that I think that I could live with as long as a simple switch between the two bands brings everything back to normal. I'm sure that the power was the main problem now. Thanks for responding, Mike ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 90 Sat Mar 09, 1991 G.HARRIS7 [Greg] at 16:26 EST I also would like to put in my request for info on the Radio West mod for the 2010. I don't really have any complaints with mine, but some of the fainter stations are hard to get when they are near a big powerhouse. If these guys can come up with a way to narrow the selectivity of the radio it should help. Greg in AZ ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 91 Sat Mar 09, 1991 G.HARRIS7 [Greg] at 19:12 EST I am also interested in finding out more about modifing the 2010. If you could put an address or phone number in this topic for the KIWA Electronics I would appreciate it. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 92 Sat Mar 09, 1991 DAWSON-PHOTO [Bob Marcy] at 22:04 EST Greg, KIWA 612 South 14th Avenue Yakima, Washington 98902 1-509-453-5492 Bob M. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 93 Mon Mar 11, 1991 D.HALLAS [CSSFLOGOUT] at 19:52 EST Hi. I listened to "DX Unlimited" on Radio Habana and Arnie Coro (sp?) talked about a modification to the SONY 2001 (the *OLD* portable). He didn't have the details but he had heard that there is a way to modify the old 2001's for more frequency coverage and improved scanning. Does anyone know about this? ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 94 Tue Mar 12, 1991 P.YANT [Philip - MI] at 18:33 EST As I recall Arnie Coro's comments, he was begging people for information on such a modification, as he had only heard rumors. Here's a chance to get your name mentioned on Radio Havana, if you know any modifications for this radio. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 95 Tue Mar 12, 1991 D.HALLAS [CSSFLOGOUT] at 19:51 EST [ Philip - MI ] Hi. I think that's what I said. Appreciate the re-post. Any mods for 2001's out there? ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 96 Wed Mar 20, 1991 TABATOWSKI [Tom Indpls] at 20:44 EST Radio West has 3 basic mods. The 1st is called the "DX mod," the 2nd is the "SWL mod," and the 3rd is a super 4kHz ceramic wide filter. Stock filter specs-------------R.West DX filter------------R.West SWL filter. NARROW: 4.4 kHZ--10 kHZ--------2.7 kHZ-5.0 kHz--------------2.7 kHz-5.0kHz- Wide: 11kHz--18 kHz------------4.4kHz-10 kHz----------------11kHz-18kHz---- cost for either the DX or SWL filter is $50 plus $7 UPS................... The 3rd filter, the Super 4kHZ Ceramic Wide Filter is 4kHz-10kHz @-60dB. "It really cleans up adjacent channel whistle and also makes an excellent WIDE filter... ." Cost: $65 plus shipping. comments? ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 97 Sun Apr 07, 1991 M.ASHE1 at 03:46 EDT I just picked up a DX 440 from a R/S, marked down to $125, due to it not having the rec out jack. Appearantly someone bought it, knocked that plastic cover out of the hole, and returned it. Nothing else wrong. I dropped a jack into the board, and it works like a champ. I scrounged the jack from an old TRS-80 Model I that I have for parts. Fit like a glove. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 98 Sun Apr 07, 1991 E.BYINGTON [Elton, N2KXT] at 13:32 EDT Here's a simple modification for the JRC NRD-525 that preserves the wideband audio the radio's capable of in the AUX filter position, as delivered from the factory. The NRD-525 is delivered with three internal bandwidths, nominally 2 kHz (INTER), 4 kHz (WIDE) and 12 kHz (AUX). When you add accessory filters, you put the first one in the NARR position, then the second in the AUX position, sacrificing the 12 kHz bandwidth. When installing the AUX filter you have to move a wire jumper, W1 on the CFH- 36 IF Filter Unit board, from C-B, as supplied, to C-B, to allow selection of the filter that's installed in position FL6. Cut three 8-inch pieces of hookup wire. Solder one end of a wire to point A, one to point B, and one to point C, thus extending the jumper points. Go to Radio Shack and buy a miniature SPDT toggle switch (catalog number 275- 326). Connect the wire from point C to the center pin of the switch. Connect the wire from point A to one of the remaining two pins. Connect the wire from point B to the other pin on the switch. These are NOT signal-carrying leads, so lead dress is not especially critical. You can either route the pigtail switch over the top of the card cage and out the left rear top of the receiver's case or you can fashion a removable bracket of some kind and let the paddle of the switch protrude from one of the ventilating slots at the rear of the front cover. Throw the switch to position B and you'll connect the accessory filter when the radio's in the AUX position. Throw the switch to the A position and the accessory filter is bypassed, allowing the 12 kHz bandpass through to the detector. I've been using this modification for several years without a hitch. It can be removed in a jiffy if you decide to sell the receiver. On those occasions when a shortwave station is really in-the-clear, or when you're listening to a good local broadcasting station, the added bandwidth makes for very pleasant audio, especially from the radio's LINE OUT jack. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 99 Mon Apr 08, 1991 G.ATKINS1 [GUY ATKINS] at 00:11 EDT Elton-- Here's yet another way to maintain the 12 kHz (AUX) bandwidth in the NRD525. John Tow, writing in the August 1990 DX ONTARIO bulletin, described this method: "I found that by cutting the land from J28-13 to J30-9 on the motherboard, the FM mode would yield AM reception bypassing the bandwidth filters as the original "AUX" position did prior to the installation of the additional filter." "The land to be cut carries the signal from the BW decoder on the IF filter board to the IF-AF board to turn off the AGC and turn on the FM detector audio path during FM reception. By interrupting the path, the AM detector and AGC will remain on when the BW decoder senses the selection of the FM mode. Unfortunately, the CPU still thinks you are using FM and ignores the AGC switch. You will be stuck on AGC SLOW only and either 5 or 10 kHz frequency slewing depending on the tuning resolution (10 or 100 Hz)." "The keypad and frequency knob function normally, as do the NB, PBT and notch controls. The loss of FM mode I find acceptable. An SPST toggle switch could be wired across the land cutting and placed on the back panel if you want to select the FM detection mode at some future time." I agree with you, Elton, there are times the 12 kHz bandwidth is great to have. I've installed ICOM's FL-44A filter (2.4 kHz @ -6 db) in my 525's AUX filter position, so I currently have only the "wide" 4 kHz stock bandwidth as my widest filter setting. I'll have to get busy and make yet another modification to my 525 with either your or John Tow's technique to free up the 12 kHz width again. BTW, I'm compiling a 525 "compendium" of modification info. from various NRD525 owners which will appear in the 1991 edition of Fine Tuning's PROCEEDINGS. As with previous editions, it will be available in early September. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 100 Wed Apr 10, 1991 E.BYINGTON [Elton, N2KXT] at 21:53 EDT Hi, Guy -- Thanks for the info on that modification! I think I prefer my method for two reasons: a) it can be removed quickly without a trace, and b) I have the VHF/UHF converter in my receiver and need the NBFM option. I'm looking forward to the Proceedings 1991 book! I have all the others and they're great! Feel free to stick my modification in your compendium. Cheers and 73, Elton ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 101 Sat Apr 13, 1991 W.HAGEN1 [Bill Hagen] at 15:41 EDT Anyone hear or see anything about filter mods for the dx440? ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 102 Tue Apr 30, 1991 D.GOLDEN9 [Dave] at 02:11 EDT I have a Kenwood R-2000 and a little Panasonic tape recorder. The R-2000 has a tape out record jack that has an output level of 300mV/2K ohms. The tape recorder line in jack seems to only want (as near as I can tell) 0.25mV/ 200 - 600 ohms. Needless to say if I plug the two together the tape sounds awfull. Not being an electronics genius I thought I ask the question: what can I do to make this set up work? I was thinking I might just need a resistor inline between them but I haven't got the slightest idea what value I would need. Any ideas would be most apprieciated Thanks, Dave ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 103 Tue Apr 30, 1991 W.HAGEN1 [Bill Hagen] at 03:08 EDT Just a guess, why dont you try a variable resistor, and adjust until it sounds right. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 104 Tue Apr 30, 1991 A.COURTNEY [Allan (KY)] at 09:15 EDT The R-5000 has the same problem. I used to feed the record out through my stereo amplifier and tape it on the tape deck. This was able to handle the high output very well. Now, I use a smaller tape recorder with an in-line attenuator from Radio Shack. They also sell an attenuating patch cord which should work ok as well. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 105 Tue Apr 30, 1991 K.ZICHI [Ken - MI] at 18:48 EDT Dave -- A single resistor won't quite do what you want, but what you need is only SLIGHTLY more complicated (2 resistors). I think I uploaded this here be- fore, but I can't find it, so I'll do it again. This is kinda tough in ASCII, but.... here's a stab at the schematic you'll use: GND ____________________________________ GND | Rx R1 Recorder | Hot ______________//R2//_________________ Hot Where R1 is 10 k ohms and R2 is 100 k Ohms. Attach appripriate connectors to the ends of this and use shielded cable and you have yourself a nice attenuating patch cord. Hope this helps. 73 ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 106 Wed May 01, 1991 D.GOLDEN9 [Dave] at 01:17 EDT Ken, Thanks for the info. One of the guys at work mentioned the same thing but he as I had no clue as to what value of resistor to use. Dave ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 107 Wed May 01, 1991 ROB.MOORE at 02:16 EDT Hi Ken, Given the attenuation needed - 300mv to .25mv - R1 should probably be more like 200-470 ohms, rather than 10K. 10K will only reduce the 300mv to about 30mv, still a pretty good overload for an input designed for .25mv input. Regards, Rob ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 108 Wed May 01, 1991 W.HAGEN1 [Bill Hagen] at 03:39 EDT A question for those with the higher end recievers: When you do a filter modification, such as replacing a 800 hz filter with a 500 or 200 hz filter, does this entail removing and replacing a modular unit, or do you have to remove and replace individual components on a circuit board. Or, are individual ic's removed and replaced? Just how are these filter mods done? Exactly what components are involved, and what stage of the radio has the filters? Thanks, Bill Hagen ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 109 Wed May 01, 1991 A.COURTNEY [Allan (KY)] at 10:53 EDT Bill, This depends on the receiver in question. For the R-5000, replacing the stock 6 kHz. AM filter only requires a screwdriver to remove the old filter and replace it with a new one. For the narrower SSB and CW filters, you do need to do a bit of soldering but it is fairly simple to accomplish. I did not replace the stock SSB (2.4 kHz.) filter, but did solder a 270 Hz. CW filter into the location on the IF board where it was designed to go. Took less than 10 minutes to do. Allan ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 110 Wed May 01, 1991 NA5E [Lar(NH)Sysop] at 15:15 EDT Bill, most filters I have soldered into place are in a small "can", maybe 1" x 0.5" x 0.5". You usually have to remove the solder from the existing filter, bend a couple of tabs up, then out she pops. Reverse the process for the new one. Filters are usually easy to install, but you may have to do some digging to get to the board. It's usually enclosed in a metal shield itself. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 111 Wed May 01, 1991 C.LAMBARD [Creede] at 19:58 EDT I'm posting this here because I've never started a topic, it looked like it sort of fit, and besides the Topic Police seem to have their radars tuned on this category this week (grin). My wife got ambitious and did some garage-cleaning today, and guess what she found? That's right, my FRG-7 that's been hiding in the garage since we moved two years ago. I'd take it out and play with it, except that it has this teeny, weeny little problem. The main tuning capacitor quite literally fell apart. I went to crank it up one day and it just sort of forlornly wobbled in my hands. So my question is, can you folks give me some recommendations on where to send my baby to have it restored to working capability? I called Yaesu about a year ago and made sure that the main tuning capacitor for the FRG-7 was still in stock (it was); it would need to be installed, with new connections to the circuit board, and could probably also stand an alignment. (It'd also be nice if I could figure out a way to add a digital readout to it. Maybe I could use the one from my DAK MR101 . . .) If you can give me any idea what the repairs might run, I'd appreciate it. The last time I sent it out, the tech quoted me $200, which I don't believe, considering the capacitor was less than $15 and I can't see the labor taking more than an hour. (If anyone is interested in taking this on, let me know that too.) Thanks. -- Creede ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 112 Wed May 01, 1991 K.ZICHI [Ken - MI] at 22:27 EDT Rob-- I don't know the formulas used to come up with the values I suggested, but this DOES work nicely to drop a line level signal to a microphone level. Note that the 10,000 ohm resistor is connected from the ground to the hot and the 100,000 ohm resistor is connected in the hot line be- tween the two devices. Maybe that wasn't clear from the drawing. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 113 Thu May 02, 1991 ROB.MOORE at 03:01 EDT Hi Ken, Your schematic was quite clear and a good job considering the pain of displaying a schematic using text characters. It looks like a 10:1 voltage divider. Of course, if the recorder you're using has a fairly low input inpedance, the resistor from hot to ground would be paralleled with a lower value and this would give a higher divide ratio. Maybe this is what's happening. In any case, if it works, don't mess with it! Regards, Rob ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 114 Thu May 02, 1991 NA5E [Lar(NH)Sysop] at 16:51 EDT Creede, call International Radio in Ft. Pierce, FL. (407-489-0956). They keep a comprehensive stock of parts, and they do some service. They're famous for selling "souped up" radios. Used t be ICOM and Kenwood, but they merged with Fox Tango and now do Yaesu, too. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 115 Sat May 04, 1991 W.HAGEN1 [Bill Hagen] at 01:56 EDT I ran across an interesting modification recently. Looking into a book on different schematics, I ran across one for an oscillator that can be used to convert an am short wave radio into one that can recieve ssb transmissions. the oscillator circuit is placed near the radio and radiates the beat frequency into the am radio, around 455 khz? into the if stage. The oscillator is adjusted until the ssb transmission is legible, and that is all there is to it. I thought this was very interesting, especially since I own a realistic 2006 scanner, which does not recieve ssb, only am and fm. Any comments on this technique to modify an am lreciever would be appreciated. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 116 Sat May 04, 1991 G.GOLDBAUM [gary wb6zif] at 11:11 EDT Bill: I'm not sure where I saw or read it but it was suggested that you could bring a tap to the 455 khz if out of the radio (I think there was a buffer circuit) and connet it to the ant. of a low band radio (dx440, 2010, etc) and would allow your 2006 to hear SSB. The only problem I can see with using a scanner to receive SSB is most scanners only have freq. steps in the 5, 12.5 and 30 khz range. For tunning SSB you should have smaller steps less then 1 khz. The other thing is, and someone can correct me on this, the only SSB activity that I am aware of is on the Ham bands. Everything else is FM or aircraft AM. That is probably why they never put SSB in most of the scanners. It might be a fun project to do but the most SSB activity you will find will be on 6m (50 mhz). Then it starts to fall off to some on 2m (144, 145 mhz) and 70 cm (432 mhz). Majority of SSB activity is below 30 mhz. One quick experiment you might try, if you have a SW SSB radio is rap several turns of wire around your 2006 (a pickup coil), connect it to your SW ant. then tune to 455 khz and see if you get anything. It might work with out opening the 2006. Have fun. gary *8^) ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 117 Sat May 04, 1991 C.LAMBARD [Creede] at 11:27 EDT Thanks, Larry! I'll check 'em out. I suspect they probably soup up radios people send in, too. The one thing the FRG-7 really cried out for in my opinion was a digital readout. -- Creede ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 118 Sat May 04, 1991 H.JOHNSON34 [LYNN] at 21:29 EDT Intresting you should bring that up about an extrnal BFO. I was thinking about doing that for the DAK 101s I just got. Any one no how to get a schematic from DAK? I've already opened the unit to see what's inside. Seems to be a fixed freq AM FM main board with a senthisizer added. Very complex for such a cheap (cost effective) radio. I got it cause it was digital and low cost, I have so far been impressed, I really thought it would of lower quality.... I does need an external ant though to perform well.. Am also thinking of checking to see what it would take to make it's IF narrower too. It seems to be about 15 to 20khz wide at the 6db points. Just a guess from tuning it around a bit. Lynn WA6LNU ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 119 Sat May 04, 1991 M.WARD19 [Mike/WAXF-FM] at 22:28 EDT Also wondering about external BFO...for my DX-370, for one. Any idea? :) Straining on the sidebands, Mike ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 120 Sun May 05, 1991 W.HAGEN1 [Bill Hagen] at 00:15 EDT The schematic for the external bfo is from a book, with the bfo schematic referenced from HAM RADIO magazine. I am away from my notes at the moment, but will post the exact title and reference on monday. Apparently any oscillator at 455khzthat is adjustable will work, placed next to the radio, radiating rf that is bsorbed /absorbed by the if stage of the radio. More later. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 121 Mon May 06, 1991 W.HAGEN1 [Bill Hagen] at 22:11 EDT Here is the updated list of references on simple BFO's to cause AM radios to recieve ssb transmissions. Schematics from a book called "Master Handbook of 1001 Practical Electronic circuits", page 228, 507, 547. Each of these circuits discuss this application. Also, an article in "73 Magazine", Jan. 1976, p. 201, titled "99c IC BFO Don't know how good they are, but here they are. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 122 Wed May 08, 1991 H.BELCHER1 [Harry] at 23:44 EDT I just opened up my old (2 weeks old) DX-440 today, and put in the DIN plug. I went to a local electronics store and picked up a board mount DIN, opened up the radio, lifted the board, un-sodered the 5 pin locations, pushed in the DIN, then re-sodered the 5 pins. Thats all there was. Easy, and it works. And I'm not any kind of a hacker. I'm just brave. My wife would have killed me if I would have broke the new radio. I was wondering why a 5 pin DIN was needed. I know the board is set up for it, but why. The same thing could have been accomplished with only a 2 wire jack. What are the other wires for? I know I'm showing my ignorance, but it's the only way I'll find out, right! Harry Belcher ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 123 Thu May 09, 1991 G.GOLDBAUM [gary wb6zif] at 00:08 EDT Harry: while you were at it you could have put in the anti-mute mode. I know everybody here calls it the anti-chuffing but the manual calls the signal MUTE. But anyway you just have to unplug the flat cable bend pin 2 (which is just striped flat cable) so as not to make contact and put it back in the socket. It's the cable between the board with the 5 pin DIN and the main board. If you noticed, when you scan the auido goes away until it stops scanning. Well there are some signals that you can miss because they are not strong enough to trigger the anti-scan circuit but are strong enough for any SWL to make something out. The anti-mute mode disables the speaker muting during scan. You may also have noticed that sometimes you get 10 khz steps when you wanted 1 khz steps during a manual search. The scan is in 1 khz steps and with the anti-mute mod you can search for signals at a controled 1 khz step. The bottom line is I think it is of use. One more thing the reason for 5 pin DIN is it is an audio standard. Therefore you can plug the radio into standard recording equipment used in commercial audio. Consummer equipment usually has rca jacks on the recording equipment (I don't mean the small protable recorders). Take a look in the back of your stereo and VCR. I think also in Europe they use the DIN connectors. If you go to a recording studio you'll see lots of DIN type connectors. gary ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 124 Thu May 09, 1991 S.SLONKOSKY [Stan-KE6ZC] at 02:56 EDT I've never known any recording studio in the US that used DIN connectors (excluding some oddball piece of equipment that might have had them). The most common audio connector in a recording or broadcast studing in the USA is the 3 pin XLR connector. They were apparently invented by Cannon, but they are also made by Neutrik (the best in my opinion) and Switchcraft. DIN means Deutsche Industrie Norm. In Germany, it's very difficult to find an audio cable that doesn't have a DIN connector on one end. Once when I was in Germany, I tried to find a cable with a 3.5 mm phone plug on each end to connect a Sony '7600D to a walkman style recorder. The only way to get such a cable would have been for to make my own, but I left my soldering iron at home. I just waited until I got to Belgium (the Netherlands would have worked as well). Of course after 1992, the Germans may shove DIN connecters down everyone's throat after 1992. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 125 Thu May 09, 1991 H.BELCHER1 [Harry] at 20:57 EDT Thanks for the info Gary. I think I'll open it up one more time, for the anti- mute mode. The first time I opened it to put in the DIN plug, I thought about doing the anti-mute, but thought I would only do one thing at a time, in case something went wrong, I could fix it easier. I'm using a DIN cable from my old color computer. Is there a better cable which dosent have the extra wires. Thank's Again Harry Belcher ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 126 Thu May 09, 1991 G.PUPURS [Gary in N.IL] at 22:19 EDT Someone mentioned this a long time ago, but I will reiterate it... This concerns the DIN Tape Out jack on the DX-440. Output = .01-.015 VAC about right for a mike input voltage Heres a diagram of the pinout (looking at the jack): NC o o Audio left NC o o Audio right o Ground ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 127 Sun May 12, 1991 PAULBAXTER [Paul in C.NY] at 12:03 EDT Here's a mod I haven't seen discussed thus far that *I* have found very useful for the RS DX-440/Sangean ATS-803a. Very carefully, put a dab of some bright colored paint (red, yellow, orange, white) IN the small arrow-shaped depressions in the front panel slider controls. Heck, while you're at it, do the same thing to the grooves in the switches for wide/narrow bandwidth and BFO on/off. Helps with at-a-glance perception of what's set how, especially in dim light. Model car paint works well for this, and a straight pin. Get a small drop of paint on the end of the straight pin and drop it right in there. If any gets outside the depression, let it dry for a moment, and use a small piece of wood as a scraper; it'll come off quite well. -paul ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 128 Sun May 12, 1991 L.TAUSON [dragonship] at 12:32 EDT Gee, Paul ... sounds like things we used to do to the older (hollow state) equipment both for the reason stated and for re-furbishing ... the original markings tend to come off after a decade or so of use ... ;) While in the subject, the older sets with too bright dial lights can be dimmed simply by subbing a higher voltage bulb (12 volt vs 6 volt, for examplee) or using CHEAP nail polish to dye them - red usually, although other colors are available if my daughter's friends' nails are any clue! Hmmm ... sudden thought - I remember seeing some of the flourescent paints somewhere which should show up REAL good, even under reduced lighting!!! Later ... es 73 Mike, K3MXO ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 129 Sun May 12, 1991 G.PUPURS [Gary in N.IL] at 22:46 EDT Paul, your idea of painting the switches I also did, but to the RF gain and BFO knobs. I took some white-out and carefully brushed the ridge that shows where the BFO or RF gain is set to. I also extended the line to the edge of the dial. Makes it a lot easier to see, especially when you are tired, and your eyes don't always see very good at 3:00 in the morning !! :) ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 130 Sun May 12, 1991 G.ATKINS1 [GUY ATKINS] at 23:59 EDT Gary & Paul, Another trick for better visibility on the 525's knobs is to cut in half some of the Avery 1/2" dia. fluorescent-colored, round labels available at office supply stores. Then stick one of these half-moon shaped pieces on the front of the knob, with the knob in its "normal" position. The straight edge of the label piece should be vertical to indicate the usual positioning of the knob. With my receiver's PBS and NOTCH controls modified like this, I can easily tell where the controls are set, even in dim light. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 131 Wed May 15, 1991 L.TAUSON [Mike, K3MXO] at 23:56 EDT I've been sent a copy of a small newsletter called "The Hollow State Newsletter." It's a small publication that comes out 3 or 4 times a year and costs $5 for 4 issues. It's got some interesting information in it - the one I have covered mods to the R-390 and HQ-180 plus had some info on cleaning agents. If anyone's interested, I'll post the subscription info here ... Thansk ... es 73 Mike, K3MXO ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 132 Thu May 16, 1991 A.COURTNEY [Allan (KY)] at 12:26 EDT John Bryant mentioned in this months Listener's Library column in the NASWA Journal that the HSN had been resurrected. It disappeared for a couple of years. A quality publication that all owners of older equipment should subscribe to. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 133 Fri May 17, 1991 PAULBAXTER [Paul in C.NY] at 22:55 EDT L.TAUSON [dragonship]: Aargh! That was MY thought, too, but scoured the whole area, and could not come up with fluorescent paint anywhere. Looked in most all of the hobby shops. Maybe it was bumped by all the Desert Storm-color camoflage paint I found instead... So, anyway, I just used orange. Works OK. Gary: How does white-out hold up? Guy: That's an excellent suggestion for almost any kind of round knobs (he says, looking around for round knobs to affix stickers to...) -paul ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 134 Sat May 18, 1991 L.TAUSON [Mike, K3MXO] at 10:23 EDT Paul, teh 'spousal unit' has suggested that craft stores may carry the paints as well and usually *don't* have the Desert Storm paints! Their used for things like tole painting (EGAD ... flourescent tole?), etc so that might be worth a shot. Good luck! ... Mike ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 135 Wed May 22, 1991 J.PARISH3 [Gopher] at 01:40 EDT While in the military we had a chalk like pencil which we used to redo the lettering, etc on equipment when we refurished it. You might check for this item in one of the companies like Allied, etc. The thing made the equipment look like new. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 136 Thu May 23, 1991 G.PUPURS [Gary in N.IL] at 22:55 EDT Paul, Well, I am sure after use, the white-out would eventually wear off, but so far it has worked fairly well. I didnt put it on the knurled(sp?) part of the knob, so it usually doesnt get touched too much. Actually, I was using it to correct a mistake on a paper for school, and the radio was next to me, and the idea just sorta came to me. Also, if you ever want to, the white out can be easily removed by scratching it off. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 137 Fri May 24, 1991 H.BELCHER1 [Harry] at 22:01 EDT I used model paint on my DX-440 and it looks great, plus very professional. I got the paint from my kid, he didn't even charge me anything. Harry Belcher ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 138 Sun May 26, 1991 R.COOK2 [Ralph @ nwGA] at 20:56 EDT I found my instruction book for my Emerson psw-4010/sangean sg-789. In it was a schematic which listed some variable resistors such as "49m osc", "41m osc", etc., and also some listed as "49m ant", "41m ant", etc. I adjusted some to "tune" the dial on the radio, but the radio is built so that the labels on the circuit board were covered and I couldn't tell whether I was adjusting the "osc" or the "ant". Which do you think I was adjusting, and what would the others do? ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 139 Wed May 29, 1991 W.HAGEN1 [Bill Hagen] at 00:42 EDT A quick little mod to the pk-232, took two jumper shorts, soldered a wire to each, in one of the two holes, put a spst switch on the other end of the wires, and put the other side of each jumper on on the pins of the battery backup shorting pins. Now, instead of having to turn the 232 over and dig the jumper out every time I need to reconfigure to default, all I have to do is temporarily throw the switch. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 140 Wed May 29, 1991 A.HEELY [Art - K1ZKY] at 21:16 EDT Well I finally got up the courage to make the first mod to my new NRD-535. It was explained in the manual so no big deal. From the factory switching from CHANNEL to FREQ and back causes the VFO to assume the frequency and mode of the memory channel. Removing resistor RJ5 eliminates this allowing the VFO and memory to retain their own frequency information. This was simple to do with the pull out boards. There are a total of 8 resistors together. The manual explains what happens if you remove RJ6 (eliminate AGC Off). It appears as if the other 6 resistors may alter other logic functions. Does anyone know what these do? This may be in the Tech Manual but I don't have one yet. Any info would be appreciated. Art ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 141 Wed May 29, 1991 J.KAUPPILA [Jim (FL)] at 22:14 EDT Dang Art! You must have some courage to go into your new megabuck receiver and start modifying it. I think my hands would be shaking so bad worrying about not scratching or messing something up that I wouldn't be able to do any work. So how do you like the new machine so far? Good luck, Jim K. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 142 Thu May 30, 1991 A.HEELY [Art - K1ZKY] at 00:13 EDT To: J.KAUPPILA [Jim (FL)] >Dang Art! You must have some courage to go into your new megabuck >receiver and start modifying it. I think my hands would be >shaking so bad worrying about not scratching or messing something >up that I wouldn't be able to do any work. > >So how do you like the new machine so far? Jim, I really wasn't as brave as I sound. I did think about it a while and was a little nervous. I went real slow (unusual for me). I always had this compulsion to take everything I own apart and "improve" thousands of dollars and hours in research and development. The pull out boards make something like this a lot easier than most radios. And if you mess something up there's only one board to relpace. There really isn't too much to improve on the radio. Now that I've used it a while I'm even more pleased than I was at first. Several of the things I like best aren't advertised on the specs. One is the operation of the squelch. I do a lot of utility monitoring and the squelch is the very best I've seen on a HF radio. If you've ever tried to use a squelch on HF you know how difficult it is to eliminate the noise and static and still stay sensitive enough to open up on a weak signal. The NRD-535 does this almost as good as on a scanner. Another thing I really appreciate is not having to re- tune when switching from USB to LSB. This is great for monitoring stations that use both sidebands for different things. And the AM mode is so much better than my Icom R71A that I'm starting to listen a lot more to SW broadcast stations. I can enjoy them now. It was a lot of money but I expect to get a lot of enjoyment out of it and so far I'm not disappointed. Art ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 143 Sun Jun 02, 1991 P.YANT [Philip - MI] at 09:57 EDT I see in the library today several (I don't remember how many; three or more) files labelled "Radio modifications database." Can anyone describe what is in these files? I looked at the description for the first one and it was not explicit. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 144 Sun Jun 02, 1991 NA5E [Lar(NH)Sysop] at 17:42 EDT I have already requested more info from the uploader on those mod files. I'll change the descriptions as soon as I get more info. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 145 Tue Jun 04, 1991 A.WORTHEM [Lew] at 20:51 EDT I have a FRG-8800 HF receiver for which there is a VHF (118-174mHz) adapter available from Yaesu. I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile to add this. I already have a RS Pro-34 scanner, so I'm familiar with the police communications in VHF. I also have a PK232MBX (mbx=magic box!) and I enjoy decoding all the chirps, so I wonder if there's any RTTY, Amtor, on VHF. Would I need an additional antenna? Right now I have a random wire. Lew in Michigan. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 146 Sun Jun 09, 1991 G.WYSOCKI1 [Gary - NY] at 13:33 EDT Ok, this should be a very hard request. I was wondering if anyone has any modifications for my scanner. I have a Regency DX 3000 . I bought it at Radio Shack about 5-6 years ago. If you have any mods for it, could you please post them. Thanx. -=Gary Wysocki=- ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 147 Mon Jun 10, 1991 G.PUPURS [Gary-Rkfd,IL] at 00:40 EDT Gary Wysocki, You should try posting that question in CAT 4, which is all scanner-related. Just type 'SET 4' at the 1? prompt, then TOP to list the topics, and REP ## where ## is the number of the topic related to modifications...They will be much more able to answer you. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 148 Mon Jun 10, 1991 A.COURTNEY [Allan (KY)] at 10:37 EDT Gary, You might wish to direct your question over in the Scanner Category where it is likely that someone will know something about this particlular scanner. AC ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 149 Sat Jun 22, 1991 G.HYDAL [Gaylord (MA)] at 18:56 EDT I did the anti-chuffing mod today using the techniques described in messages 57 and 58, this topic. It's a good idea to have small needlenose pliers to reinsert the ribbon cable after bending the 2nd wire up. My LC display was a little wonky when flipping through SW bands, but taking the radio apart and putting it back together cured that. Probably a bad connection somewhere. The "ping" described in other messages in this topic is definitely there, but only when you first lock in a freq. And it goes away immediately. So, this is a small trade-off for being able to hear the frequencies as you are scanning through them. Now, my next step is the 5-pin DIN tape out mod, but I'll let some of the electronic technicians at work do that one. Regards, Gaylord ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 150 Tue Jun 25, 1991 A.COURTNEY [Allan (KY)] at 00:14 EDT The following is a reprint of a Usenet article detailing a modification to improve the VOX response time on the Radio Shack CTR- 85 recorder. Article 3410 of rec.radio.shortwave: From: parnass@cbnewse.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S) Newsgroups: rec.radio.shortwave,rec.radio.amateur.misc Subject: Radio Shack CTR-85 VOX cassette recorder now on sale for $30 Keywords: voice actuated tape recording, scanner, HF receiver, mod info Message-ID: <1991Feb23.185446.27268@cbnewse.att.com> Date: 23 Feb 91 18:54:46 GMT Followup-To: rec.radio.shortwave Distribution: usa Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL Lines: 68 I use a couple of modified Radio Shack VOX cassette recorders for unattended taping of radio transmissions. They were overpriced at $60 list but were a good deal when they went on sale each year for $30. The CTR-75 was discontinued a few years ago. Radio Shack has the CTR-85 Voice-Actuated (VOX) Cassette Recorder on sale for $29.95 until 3/16/91. I have never used a CTR-85 but some hobbyists who have used them recommend them. Attached are reprints of the articles which described how to shorten the CTR-85 "hang time." Happy monitoring... ===================================================================== ======= Bob Parnass, AJ9S - AT&T Bell Laboratories - att!ihlpy!parnass (708)979-5414 |From: gordo@athena.mit.edu (Garet G Nenninger) |Subject: Re: radio shack VOX 85 |Date: 27 Jan 89 01:56:17 GMT | |In article <213@ringwood.Morgan.COM> joec@Morgan.COM (Joe Collins) writes: |>QUESTION: does anyone know if the mods described for the model 75 |> apply equally well for the 85; I am naive re: schematics |> but the 75 mod instructions seem similiar to what I observed |> in my 85 schematic. | |I managed to modify my 85 quite some time ago. Simply solder a 1 Kohm |resistor in parallel with R33, which is a 27 Kohm resistor. The delay |ends up about one second long. | |Incidentally, I got the 85 to work on VOX with an old multiband, but |it doesn't work with my Cobra SR-15 because when squelched, the SR- 15 |puts out a little bit of "swoosh" noise. The auto level control in |the 85 turns up high enough to trigger the motor. I'm going to try an |attenuator as soon as I can get to Radio Shack. | |Garet Nenninger |Advanced Projects Group |MIT Plasma Fusion Center | | |From att!ucbvax!XEROX.COM!"Thomas_A._Cagan.LAX1B" Fri Feb 10 16:29:41 1989 |Date: 10 Feb 89 22:29:41 GMT | |CTR-85 VOX Mod-- | | |Changing the VOX hang time is very easy on the Radio Shack CTR-85. Locate |capacitor C23 (100uf) and put a resistor across it. A 10K seems to work |just fine. Select the specific value for the desired hang time. | |Someone suggested using a an attenuator ahead of the recorder for high |signal level input attenuation. A "T" pad attenuator made up of three |resistors will work great. I suggest the center resistor be about 47-470 |ohms depending upon the attenuation desired and signal level encountered. |The resistor in the output to the recorder can be about 100K. If the high |frequencies are rolled off too much, bypass the 100K with a 1000pf. The |amount of attenuation is set by the input series resistor, select as |desired. | |Hugh W6WTU | -- ===================================================================== ======= Bob Parnass, AJ9S - AT&T Bell Laboratories - att!ihlpy!parnass (708)979-5414 ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 151 Sat Jun 29, 1991 D.GOLDEN9 [Dave] at 01:48 EDT I would like to modify my Kenwood R-2000 so as to improve the selectivity. Radio West has a mod they will do which replaces the AM-Wide filter with a 4 kHz ceramic filter. This will cost me $65 plus tax. What I want to know is can this be done by some one who is fairly handy with a hot soldering iron, or should it be left to the experts? If I could do this myself, where can I find a source for the above mentioned filter? Thanks, Dave ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 152 Sat Jul 06, 1991 G.HYDAL [Gaylord (MA)] at 08:51 EDT To DX-440 owners (or anyone else experiencing AC hum through AC to DC adaptors/converters): This modification is for the Radio Shack AC adaptor/convertor that is used for the Realistic DX-440. I imagine it will also work on other convertors where AC hum is a problem. Usual disclaimers apply: not responsible for damage, etc., etc. And neither is GEnie or its representatives... 1) Get a 4700mfd (millifarad) electrolytic capacitor (around $3.00 at Radio Shack). 2) Ascertain which wire is positive and which is negative on your converter. The white wire is usually positive. 3) Cut the wire about 3-4 inches below the heavy part that plugs into the wall. Separate the wires enough to make the connections, and then strip them, exposing about 1/4 inch of bare wire on each end. 4) Connect the positive convertor wires (preferably with solder, but any good splice will do) to the positive wires on the capacitor. 5) Connect the negative convertor wires to the negative wires on the capacitor (again, with solder or a good splice). 6) Insulate the connected wires with electrician's tape. 7) Tape the capacitor securely on the side of the large two-prong plug, making sure it will not interfere with other plugs in the outlet. Although the capacitor (about the size of a man's thumb) taped to the two- prong plug makes for a bulky unit, this baby will eliminate annoying AC hum that is especially audible when the volume is turned all the way down. In effect, you now have a filtered AC power source. Credit for this mod goes to Thain Hunter on Prodigy's Ham bulletin board, although the instructions above are mine (couldn't find Thain's post!). I would appreciate comments and/or suggestions. It worked for me...enjoy the silence! Regards, Gaylord ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 153 Sat Jul 06, 1991 K.ZICHI [Ken - MI] at 14:41 EDT Gaylord-- This "anti-hum" mod for AC adaptors should work for any DC adaptor that has the "works" inside its plug (as most do these days). I'd stress the instruction to insulate the bare wires you spliced, and STRONGLY recommend soldering, but essentially all this is doing is adding another "filter" capacitor into the tail end of the power supply. There MAY be room inside the plug and the adverterous may want to try crackign open the case before installing an external cap. Oh yes, one other thing. Be sure to select a capacitor with a Working Voltage at least 10% greater than the DC voltage that is put out by your adaptor. You'll have a cap that fails prematurely if you don't. 73 //kvz ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 154 Sat Jul 06, 1991 ROB.MOORE at 15:14 EDT One more comment about filtering the DC adapters - The Capacitor is 4700 Micro farads, not Milli-farads. 4700 Millifarads would be 4.7 Farads - rather larger than the typical Radio Shack capacitor. When a capacitor is labeled "mfd" it stands for Microfarads. -- Rob ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 155 Sat Jul 06, 1991 G.HYDAL [Gaylord (MA)] at 17:57 EDT To: ROB.MOORE >One more comment about filtering the DC adapters - The Capacitor >is 4700 Micro farads, not Milli-farads. 4700 Millifarads would be >4.7 Farads - rather larger than the typical Radio Shack >capacitor. When a capacitor is labeled "mfd" it stands for >Microfarads. Thanks, Rob! Guess you can tell I'm not a "high techie", huh?! Regards, Gaylord ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 156 Sun Jul 07, 1991 ROB.MOORE at 01:46 EDT You're welcome, Gaylord. Glad to be a helpful "Techie". -- Rob ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 157 Sun Jul 07, 1991 H.STANDO [Henry] at 10:04 EDT Gaylord; Another good place to put the cap would be right inside the radio at the jack-or near it-wherever there is room.This would lead to a much neater package .Of course this would only work for the radio so if you used the adapter for any other purpose it wouldn't have the extra filtration.Sorry I didn't reply to your e-mail-things got a bit busy around here.To answer your question-yes I did do the battery/ac power test and still heard no hum.The adapter I am usingis quite bulky so maybe it has the extra capacitance already in it. ---- Rob ; A 4.7 farad electrolytic-hmmmm-yep-if I remember right it would be quite large.Only problem is you would need a flatbed truck to get it home.At least you wouldn't have to worry about power failure-that thing would retain enough charge to power the radio through just about amy power failure :) --Henry ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 158 Mon Jul 08, 1991 G.HYDAL [Gaylord (MA)] at 07:57 EDT To: H.STANDO [Henry] > Another good place to put the cap would be right inside the radio >at the jack-or near it-wherever there is room.This would lead to a Henry, The capacitor if pretty big, about the size of a man's thumb, so an internal installation would require lot's of extra room among the guts and right near the DC jack. >question-yes I did do the battery/ac power test and still heard no >hum.The adapter I am usingis quite bulky so maybe it has the Thanks for passing on the results. Regards, Gaylord ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 159 Tue Jul 09, 1991 R.HARPER6 [Rod Harper] at 21:56 EDT Has anyone attempted installing a record out doodad on the DX-440 ? Can it be done ? >>Rod<< ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 160 Tue Jul 09, 1991 G.HYDAL [Gaylord (MA)] at 22:13 EDT To: R.HARPER6 [Rod Harper] >Has anyone attempted installing a record out doodad on the DX-440? >Can it be done ? Rod, There are a group of files (and also msgs) that describe this modification. Maybe Allan or Ken can point you in the right direction. Regards, Gaylord ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 161 Wed Jul 10, 1991 D.PEROVICH [Dan (WA)] at 00:53 EDT Here's a question about the Sony 2010. As we know the wide filter lets a little too much information through, but when using the narrow filter, a lot of the high audio frequency is lost. What's the best way to get the "highs" back? Would it be to replace the narrow filter with a slightly wider one or is there a way to add a tone control? Thanks, Dan ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 162 Wed Jul 10, 1991 D.RENNIE [Dave-Anch.AK] at 01:49 EDT Rod: Go back in this topic and read messages 23, 24, and 44 (current numbering) for information on the tape out mod. Also, while you're at it, check out messages 28, 58, and 67 for information on the DX-440 "anti- chuffing" mod. The mods are discussed in other messages of the same time frame, but the ones I specifically mentioned seem to be the most informa- tive as far as actually doing the mods are concerned. Hope this helps. ............Dave Rennie ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 163 Wed Jul 10, 1991 K.ZICHI [Ken - MI] at 21:00 EDT Dan -- before you go trying to modify the 2010 in order to get some of the highs back when using the narrow filter, try a couple of reception tricks. 1) Use the Sync detector. You'll only get one side band and the audio should sound better to you. 2) If that isn't up to snuff, try turning off the sync and off-tuning by .4-.5 kHz (either up or down). This too will give you only one side band and may get you more of the highs than method one will. 3) If neither of those work, the better option is to replace the "wide" filter with one slightly narrower. There are a couple of places that will either do the mod or sell you the parts to do it, and I believe that is discussed up-topic. If anyone has experience with this type of mod, I'd love to hear it, as I am contemplating swapping my wide filter one of these days. Do you like the results, and where did you get the parts/have the mod done? Thanks! //kvz ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 164 Wed Jul 10, 1991 R.HARPER6 [Rod Harper] at 23:53 EDT To: D.RENNIE Dave, Thanks for the info... now I have to figure out how to go back to those messages. Can I do that with Aladdin ? >>Rod<< ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 165 Thu Jul 11, 1991 D.PEROVICH [Dan (WA)] at 01:13 EDT Ken Zichi, Thanks for your advice. I had forgotten about the sync detector being used for fading. It not only solved my problem with the audio high frequencies, but also helped keep the signal from fading as much as without it. Talk about killing two birds with one stone! Dan P.S. The Sony 2010 is quite some radio, isn't it. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 166 Thu Jul 11, 1991 D.RENNIE [Dave-Anch.AK] at 02:12 EDT Rod: Sorry, I can't help you there...I have an Amiga and don't use Aladdin...maybe someone else online can help with that! Good luck! ............Dave ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 167 Thu Jul 11, 1991 BILL.DOOLEY [Bill] at 02:40 EDT >Sony 2010 filter mod. I hesitate to have anything done to the radio while its still under warranty, but the wide filter has to go. It lets through a lot of hiss with even strong stations. Radio West in Vista, CA, one town west of me, does a couple of different filter mods on the Sony. I'll give them a call and find out how they handle the warranty question. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 168 Thu Jul 11, 1991 DAWSON-PHOTO [DAWSON STAFF] at 03:51 EDT To: K.ZICHI [Ken - MI] > If anyone has experience with this type of mod, I'd love tohear >it, as I am contemplating swapping my wide filter one of these >days. Do you like the results, and where did you get the >parts/have the mod done? Thanks! //kvz Not yet but soon Ken. I recently returned from a trip to Yakima, my hometown and that of KIWA Electronics (the MAP maker). I visited KIWA and spoke to Craig Siegenthaler, the owner. His company makes a direct replacement for the Sony wide filter with the following specs listed: -6 dB bandwith = 8kHz (+-4 kHz) Shape Factor (-60 dB to -6 dB BW ratio) = 1.60 (typical) The stock Sony filter has a bandwith of 12kHz (+-6kHz) with wider skirting than the replacement. I bought two filters (insurance in case one's defective). Including shipping they are $14.95 each. I haven't installed yet because it requires a bit of solder/unsoldering and I barely got out of the PRO- 34 cellular mode alive! As soon as I do, I'll report on the results. Craig gave me a demo of the MAP unit with a Japan Radio 525 and I was impressed! I only took ten minutes time on the two units (MAP and 525) but if I had the 525 the MAP would be mandatory equipment. I'd read about the 525's "wooly" audio response before. I can't vouch for the synchro capabilities (not enough time) of the MAP but it sure did clean up the audio output! The MAP unit created the treble response needed for clarity. It also looks good, with a well machined metal cabinet. -->> Bob Marcy <<-- ......... ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 169 Thu Jul 11, 1991 NA5E [Lar(NH)Sysop] at 11:53 EDT Rod, go into the Aladdin bulletin board menu and select the J option. Page down util you find the topic you want to read, then type A, for read all. Then let Aladdin do its thing. You can also do it manually. Come into the BB, type SET 3. Then READ 25 XX NOR, where XX is a message number. (25 is the topic number.) Make sure you open your capture buffer. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 170 Thu Jul 11, 1991 K.ZICHI [Ken - MI] at 20:48 EDT Dan -- Glad the tip on using the Sync detector to improve high frequency audio response helped. The *simple* answers are usually better! ;) Bob M and Bill -- Kiwa and R West are the only two mods I've heard of. I'm anxious to hear of your experiences. 73 //kvz ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 171 Sat Jul 13, 1991 G.PUPURS [Gary-Rkfd,IL] at 01:00 EDT Bob Marcy, Do you have the address for KIWA electronics? Can we order direct form (oops) from them?? I'd like to get the wide filter mod, if it is only $15. Thats quite a bit lower than Radio West's prices. I'd appreciate hearing how they work out for you when you get around to installing them. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 172 Sat Jul 13, 1991 G.ATKINS1 [Guy (WA)] at 02:35 EDT Gary, I don't suppose Bob Marcy would mind me jumping in here and answering your question. Kiwa's address is: Kiwa Electronics 612 South 14th Avenue Yakima, WA 98902 phone: (509) 453-KIWA I have Kiwa's filter mod installed in my Sony 2010, and I find the audio to be very nice while reducing the occurance of whistles and hetrodynes from adjacent channels quite a bit. The replacement filter is a NTK brand rather than the stock Murata, and it's "shape factor" is noticeably better than the stock version. The Sony 2010 filter mod came about when I suggested to Craig Siegenthaler of Kiwa that he sell one of the MAP unit's internal ceramic filters as a replacement for the 2010's wide bandwidth. --Guy ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 173 Sat Jul 13, 1991 G.PUPURS [Gary-Rkfd,IL] at 03:00 EDT Well, since you have done the mod Guy, is it very difficult? While I am not a wizard at soldering, I can do a fairly decent job, and did do a full coverage mod on my PRO-34.(now sold) Actually, I am surprised that I havent even taken a look inside my 2010 yet...usually I open up most of my stuff "just to see what makes it tick." :) ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 174 Sat Jul 13, 1991 W.HAGEN1 [Bill Hagen] at 04:25 EDT Do you guys have the address and phone # of Radio West? thx ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 175 Sat Jul 13, 1991 BILL.DOOLEY [Bill] at 09:19 EDT Radio West 850 Anns Way Drive Vista, CA 92083 (619) 726-3910 Price List: $1.00 ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 176 Sat Jul 13, 1991 G.ATKINS1 [Guy (WA)] at 14:00 EDT Gary, The instruction sheet that Kiwa Electronics provides has step-by- step directions and diagram(s) for accomplishing the filter swap. It's not so much difficult in my opinion, but detail oriented. You'll need to follow the steps exactly if you aren't familiar with the 2010's innards (I had already delved into the radio a number of times before I did the filter mod). It will probably take you about 1/2 to 3/4 hour to accomplish the filter swap. Most of the time is spent gaining access to the stock filter. The new filter is a "drop-in" replacement and has an identical pin arrangement. Since I've made the wide filter mod about 6 months ago, I find I rarely need to go to the NARROW setting. The new wide filter and receiver's synchronous detection capability work very well on the international SWBC bands for 5 khz- spaced stations. ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 177 Sat Jul 13, 1991 G.PUPURS [Gary-Rkfd,IL] at 21:51 EDT Well, thats encouraging, Guy. Sounds like I will have to order the filter soon. I just can't stand when a strong signal is picked up in wide mode, and then disappears in narrow because the radio was actually tuned 5 kHz off freq, but was still sounding fine! I assume some of you already do this, but I like to use the sync detector also to find the exact freq of the station I am listening to. this can help when listening to SAm station, which tend to not be on even freqs. It helps when you go to look them up in WRTH(al- though you still got to account for possible frequency variance at the station) ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 178 Sun Jul 14, 1991 DAWSON-PHOTO [DAWSON STAFF] at 01:16 EDT To: G.PUPURS [Gary-Rkfd,IL] >Bob Marcy, Do you have the address for KIWA electronics? Can we >order direct form (oops) from them?? I'd like to get the wide >filter mod, if it is only $15. Thats quite a bit lower than Radio >West's prices. I'd appreciate hearing how they work out for you >when you get around to installing them. KIWA ELECTRONICS 612 South 14th Avenue Yakima, Washington (State) 98902 (509) 453-KIWA and tell Craig Bob from Montreal sent ya (he'll get a chuckle) Price is $14.95 (with installation instructions) shipped in North America I'm afraid the new NRD535 is going to put a crimp in Craig's MAP sales. -->> Bob Marcy <<-- ......... ------------ Category 3, Topic 25 Message 179 Sun Jul 14, 1991 W.HAGEN1 [Bill Hagen] at 05:12 EDT do radio west or kiwa have these filter mods for the dx440/803a? ------------