Enter the 9mm sub-machine gun. The entire Stengun family evolved from a basic design of simplicity. It was designed by Reginald V. Shepperd, directory of the Birmingham Small Arms Company, and Harold J. Turpin, the principal designer, in conjunction with the Royal Small Arms Company at Enfield. The name "Sten" was derived from the first letter of the last name of each of the designers and the first two letters from Enfield. The Stengun Mk I went from the design phase to production in less than three months. Several changes and improvements were made and the famous Mk II design was finalized. The entire family of Stens are noted for their outstanding performance and unrefined appearances. By the end of production, over 2,000,000 Stens had been made at less that $5.00 per copy.
Of all the many Sten guns that were constructed during the second world war, most of them ended up here in the United States. They were stripped of their receivers ( the part the B.A.T.F. considers the gun) and are now available from many sources as parts kits. These plans will focus on the construction of a new receiver that will work with these parts kits. It is very possible to put a fully functional Sten Mk II or Mk III together for much less than $200
Select a suitable lightwall steel tubing which is commercially available. For example, a fence post pipe (galvanized) is 38.5mm OD and 35.0mm ID, most suitable for use as a receiver. 4130 alloy steel tubing is the preferred tubing to use, referred to as DOM (drawn over mandrel), it is known for it's uniform size, wall thickness and smooth interior surface.
Cut receiver tube to 12.65 inches in length. Then use the enclosed template by either gluing or taping over the blank tube. Make sure at least one end is flush with the tube. Recheck the alignment of the template with the blank tube. It is now a simple matter to remove all the shaded areas on the template. By using this method, layout time is reduced. This feature makes the Sten an ideal project for the handyman with a minimal amount of tools.
The areas to be removed from the blank are as follows:
Before making any cuts on the receiver tube, carefully read all of the instructions. The length of your Sten is not very critical. Most wartime copies vary in length to some degree. Do, however, make sure that the ends are square and true. The single most important cut of all is the cocking lever (or both handle slot) be careful to make it straight and square to the ends of your tube. To avoid problems, use the template.
If you are using the template and for whatever reason things don't line up, now is the time to correct it, not after you have cut metal! Cut the sear hole last. Also, make sure that the slots for retaining the butt stock are 180 degrees apart.
If milling machines and/or drill presses are not available, the entire job can be done with hand tools. After laying out the correct cuts and trying on all the parts that fit (without actually cutting), you may start. Simply drill a ¼ inch hole in each area to be cut out. By drilling more than one hole you can connect the holes using files and a hacksaw. It is best to leave these cutouts just a hair on the small side to allow for final fitting.
Once cuts are made on the receiver blank, try the parts on the tube from time to time. This will help guide you along without mistakes. Once the parts are test-fitted and correct you can prepare the tube for welding. Welding can be done by any conventional method available. If conventional methods are not available, you can also use the brazing method. Brass rod can be used but it would be stronger using steel, even a coat hanger will do in place of a brazing rod.
After final assembly and welding is completed, you are ready to hand operate the Sten and prepare to test fire. Make sure the sear will engage the bolt. If it does not, runaway gun will result.
To test fire, use only one round at a time in the magazine. The Sten should fire the single round and lock the bolt reward in the open position. Check to see that the extractor pulled the empty cartridge case free from the barrel. Wear eye and ear protection during this stage.
Rate of fire: 550 rounds per minute Weight: 6.62 pounds Barrel: 7.75 inches long 6 groove Right hand twist Length: 30 inches long Operation: Blowback, selective fire Cartridge: 9mm Parabellum Bullet weight: 116 grains Powder weight: 6 grains Muzzle velocity: 1400 ft./sec. Feed: 32 round detachable magazine Sights: Fixed rear, driftable front Recoil Spring: Wire diameter: .067 inches Spring OD: 1.00 inches Active coils: 15 Free length: 9.40 inches Initial length: 6.80 inches Final length: 3.20 inches Work stroke: 3.60 inches Bolt: Weight: 1.327 pounds Cocking handle: 0.077 pounds Recoiling weight: 1.404 pounds Bolt max. dia.: 1.381 inches Bolt overall dia.: 5.75 inches Bolt body length: 4.21 inches
1. Barrel 2. Bolt assembly 3. Bolt handle 4. Recoil Spring 5. Recoil spring cup 6. Recoil spring cap 7. Front Sight 8. Barrel sleeve 9. Barrel bushing 10. Magazine housing 11. Sear Pin 12. Sear 13. Sear spring 14. Selector 15. Selector stop pin 16. Selector Spring 17. Trigger housing 18. Trigger housing cover 19. Stock 20. magazine assembly 21. Trigger pin 22. Trigger 23. Sear lever 24. Trigger spring 25. Ejector