Villa d'EsteThis creation in Tivoli, 32 kilometers (20 miles) from Rome (Tel. 774-22070), was built for Cardinal Ippolito d'Este around 1550. With hundreds of fountains and luxuriant, irrigated landscaping, it was meant to reflect the glory of one of the great families of the Renaissance. There are two prices: If the water is running full power, it's about US$6, otherwise you get in for half-price. Some may find the lack of aquatic activity disappointing, but the gardens, especially in summer, are lovely. Try to include a sumptuous lunch at Sibilla, a villa commissioned by Hadrian (Tel. 774-20281). It's closed Mondays, a bit of a tourist trap, but the food is good.
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