Basilica di San Pietro (Basilica of St. Peter)The largest cathedral in the world, the Basilica was built over the site of St. Peter's grave, according to popular belief. Unforgettable sights are Michelangelo's dome, almost 152 meters (500 feet) high, which can be scaled; his Pieta, now behind glass, after a fanatic's attack, and Bernini's canopy, which protects the pope's altar and the Tomb of the Fisherman. There's an elevator to the base of the dome and a stairway to the top; hardy folks can take the stairs all the way if they dare. (Admission without elevator is about US$3, but it's only an extra 60 cents for lift service.)From the time Julius II began the construction of a new church in 1506, it would take well over a hundred years to complete. Beginning with its monumental plan created by Bramante and continuing to the lofty cupola, with the exquisite double-column design of its drum (by Michelangelo), the church grew until Carlo Maderno completed it, with the present, much-criticized façade (1626). The now baroque and pompous interior is vast enough for papal processions and pilgrimage-size crowds. In fact, it's hard to comprehend just how large the church is because it is so superbly proportioned. It's been said that it took the Cape Canaveral hangars to finally surpass the spatial volume of the basilica. And it took the genius of Bernini to fill the space below the cupola so effectively. Here over the high altar and crypt of St. Peter, his bronze canopy, or baldacchino (1633), rises the equivalent of six stories. At the same time it permits views through to the gilded rays and holy light of his cathedral (1666; in apse), a fantastic High Baroque construction of marble, bronze, and stucco that frames what traditionally is held to be St. Peter's throne. The piers supporting the cupola are so immense that Borromini's San Carlo church would fit into one of them. Though most of the decor now dates from the Baroque and later, the Renaissance still speaks to us through Michelangelo's early masterpiece, his Pieta (1499). The slightly tilted pyramidal ensemble is so compelling that you barely notice the Madonna's strange youthfulness, much less her intentionally disproportional size. St. Peter's is open 7 AM-6 PM (7 PM in summer). Visits to the dome and its views (partially by elevator, then steps; fee) are permitted from 11 AM-4:45 PM (6:15 PM in summer). Entrance from left aisle, past the first chapel. Dress code. No shortsnot even for children, no miniskirts, no bare arms, etc. No photographs permitted. Papal Audiences Papal audiences are held once a week on Wednesdays when the pope is in Rome. To attend, you'll need to get a ticket beforehand. To apply by letter, write the Prefetture della Casa Pontificia, 00120 Citta del Vaticano. Or you can apply at the Prefetture's office, through the bronze doors under the colonnade to the right as you face St. Peter's. You'll need to apply in person the Monday or Tuesday before the Wednesday audience you wish to attend. The audience can either be at 10 AM or 11 AM, depending on where the pope is residing. Tickets are free, but arrive at St. Peter's early, as seating is limited. There are usually 2,0003,000 people at a weekly audience; the pope addresses the group in several languages and gives his blessing. Strict dress code enforced: Men should wear a tie, women a dress and jacket. Multilingual confession is also available.
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