 
                  KITCHEN IMPROVISED EXPLOSIVES 
 
     Welcome to the book of Kitchen Improvised Explosives. I spent 
a lot of time on this and hope you have phun reading it. WARNING! 
the techniques described here are very dangerous, and the 
manufacture of explosives is illegal and classified as a felony. 
This is for informational purposes only, furthermore, for anyone 
who does not know proper laboratory procedures and safety these 
steps can be dangerous/fatal.  I cannot accept responsibility for 
the use of this information.  One last thing, due to the nature of 
these explosive compounds, obtain a college level chemistry book 
and lab procedure handbook for your further reading pleasure. L8r 
 
                                                       Gordo 
 
               COMPARISON OF DETONATION VELOCITIES 
      
     T.N.T R.D.A. Comp "C" Comp C-2 Comp C-3 Comp C-4  
     6975  8550   7900     7700     7800     8100      
      
   
                       
                                 
                                           
 
                        R.D.X. MANUFACTURE 
      
     Cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine or cyclonite is manufactured in 
bulk by the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine (methenamine, 
hexamine) with strong red 100% nitric acid.  The hardest part of 
this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid.  It will most 
likely have to be made.  More on this later.  The hexamine or 
methenamine can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine 
fuel bars for camp stoves can be used but they end up being very 
expensive.  To use the fuel bars, they need to be powdered before 
hand.  The hexamine can also be made with common ammonia water (5%) 
and the commonly available 37% formaldehyde solution.  To make this 
component, place 400 g of clear ammonia water in a shallow pyrex 
dish.  To this add 54 g of the formaldehyde solution to the ammonia 
water.  Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are all that 
remain in the pan, place the pan in the oven on the lowest heat 
that the oven has.  This should be done only for a moment or so to 
drive off any remaining water.  These crystals are scraped up and 
placed in an airtight jar to store them until they are used. 
     To make the red nitric acid you will need to buy a retort with 
a ground glass stopper.  In the retort place 32 g sulfuric acid 
(98-100%) and to this add 68 g of potassium nitrate or 58 g of 
sodium nitrate.  Gently heating this retort will generate a red gas 
called nitrogen trioxide.  This gas is highly poisonous and this 
step as with all other steps should be done with good ventilation.  
This nitric acid that is formed will collect in the neck of the 
retort and form droplets that will run down the inside of the neck 
of the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being 
surrounded by ice water.  This should be heated until no more 
collects in the neck of the retort and the nitric acid quits 
dripping out of the neck into the beaker.  This acid should be 
stored until enough acid is generated to produce the required size 
batch which is determined by the person producing the explosive.  
Of course the batch can be bigger or smaller but the same ratios 
should be maintained. 
     To make the R.D.X. place 550 g of the nitric acid produced by 
the above procedure in a 1000 ml beaker in a salted ice bath.  50 
g of hexamine (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure 
that the temperature of the acid does not go above 30 degrees C.  
This temperature can be monitored by placing a thermometer directly 
in the acid mixture.  During this procedure a vigorous stirring 
should be maintained.  If the temperature approaches 30 degrees. 
immediately stop the addition of the hexamine until the temperature 
drops to an acceptable level.  After the addition is complete, 
continue the stirring and allow the temperature to drop to 0 
degrees C and allow it to stay there for 20 minutes continuing the 
vigorous stirring.  After the 20 minutes are up, pour this acid- 
hexamine mixture into 1000 ml of finely crushed ice and water.  
Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid. 
     The crystals that are filtered out are R.D.X. and will need to 
have all traces of the acid removed.  To remove this trace of acid, 
first wash these crystals by putting them in ice water, shaking, 
and refiltering.  These crystals are then placed in a little 
boiling water and filtered.  Place them in some warm water and 
check the acidity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper.  
You want them to read between 6 and 7 Ph scale.  If there is still 
acid in these crystals, reboil them in fresh water until the acid 
is removed and the litmus show them to be between 6 and 7 (the 
closer to 7 the better).  To be safe, these crystals should be 
stored water wet until ready for use.  These crystals are a very 
high explosive and should be treated as such.  This explosive is 
much more powerful that T.N.T.  To use, they will need to be dried 
for some manufacture processes which are described later.  To dry 
these crystals, place them in a pan, spread them out, and allow the 
water to evaporate off of them until they are completely dry. 
     This explosive will detonate in this dry form when pressed 
into a mold to a density of 1.55 g/cc at a velocity of 8550 m/sec. 
 
Try mixing: 
R.D.X.    78.5% 
Nitroglycerin or Nitroglycol  17.5% 
Petroleum Jelly (vaseline)    4% 
 
or: 
R.D.X.    80% 
Wax (1/2 wax, 1/2 wheel bearing grease) 20% 
 
WARNING! Skin contact should be avoided with the final products. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                 PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVE FROM BLEACH 
 
     This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive.  This 
explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as 
the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar 
rounds used by French, German and some other forces involved in 
that conflict.  These explosives are relatively safe to 
manufacture.  One should strive to make sure these explosives are 
free of sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid.  The presence of these 
compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly 
sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while in storage.  The 
manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given just as an 
expedient method.  This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate 
is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the 
solution and cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place.  This 
procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, 
sulfide free product.  These explosives are very cap sensitive and 
require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation.  To manufacture 
potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution) 
obtain a heat source (hot plate, stove etc.), a battery hydrometer, 
a large pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and 
some potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute).  Take one 
gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin heating 
it.  While this solution heats, weigh out 63 g potassium chloride 
and add this to the bleach being heated.  Bring this solution to a 
boil and boil until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 
1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge). 
     When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in 
the refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees 
C.  Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them.  Boil 
this solution again and cool as before.  Filter and save the 
crystals.  Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them 
with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g per 100 ml 
distilled water.  Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to 
cool.  Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon 
cooling.  This process of purification is called fractional 
crystallization.  These crystals should be relatively pure 
potassium chlorate. 
     Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and 
heat gently to drive off all moisture.  Melt five parts vaseline 
and five parts wax.  Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove 
gasoline) and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the 
crystals from the above operation) in a plastic bowl.  Knead this 
liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed.  Allow 
all the gasoline to evaporate.  Place this explosive in a cool dry 
place.  Avoid friction and sulfur/sulfides/phosphorous compounds.  
This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3 
g/cc) and dipped in wax to water proof.  These block type charges 
guarantee the highest detonation velocity.  This explosive is 
really not suited to use in shaped charge applications due to it's 
relatively low detonation velocity.  It is comparable to 40% 
ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same for the sake of 
charge computation.  If the potassium chlorate is bought and not 
made, it is put into the manufacture process in the powdering 
stages preceding the addition of the wax-vaseline mixture.  This 
explosive is powerful and hair raising.  The addition of 2-3% 
aluminum powder increases it's blast effect.  Detonation velocity 
3300 m/sec. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
             PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVE FROM SWIMMING POOL 
                 CHLORINATING COMPOUND (H.T.H.)  
 
     This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach.  This 
method of production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and 
yields a more pure product than does the plastique explosive from 
bleach process.  In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypo-chlorate 
CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodium chlorate 
(table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt substitute).  
The latter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the easy 
crystallization of the potassium chlorate.  This mixture will need 
to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients. 
     Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or 
equivalent (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite).  As with the bleach 
is also a dissociation reaction.  In a large pyrex glass or 
enameled steel container place 1200 g H.T.H. and 220 g potassium 
chloride or 159 g sodium chloride.  Add enough boiling water to 
dissolve the powder and boil this solution.  A chalky substance 
(calcium chloride) will be formed.  When the formation of this 
chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while 
boiling hot.  If potassium chloride was used, potassium chlorate 
will be formed.  This potassium chlorate will drop out or 
crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools.  These 
crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room 
temperature.  If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear 
filtrate (clear liquid after filtration) will need to have all 
water evaporated.  This will leave crystals which should be saved. 
     These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a 
pyrex dish to drive off all traces of water (40-75 degree C).  
These crystals are ground to a very fine powder (400 mesh). 
     If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the 
crystallization is much more time consuming.  The potassium 
chloride is the salt to use as the resulting product will 
crystalize out of the solution as it cools.  The powdered and 
completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline 
in a plastique bowl.  ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE 
TO FRICTION, AND SHOCK, AND THESE BETTER BE AVOIDED.  If sodium 
chloride is used in this explosive, it will have a tendency to cake 
and has a slightly lower detonation velocity.  This explosive is 
composed of the following: 
 
potassium or sodium chlorate  90% 
vaseline                      10% 
 
     The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by 
the addition of 2-3% aluminum powder substituted for 2-3% of the 
vaseline.  The addition of this aluminum will give this explosive 
a bright flash if set off at night which will ruin night vision for 
a short while.  The detonation velocity of this explosive is 
approximately 3200 m/sec for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec for 
the sodium salt based explosive. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
               PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVE FROM TABLE SALT 
 
     This explosive is perhaps the most easily manufactured of the 
chlorate based explosives.  Sodium chlorate is the product because 
rock salt is the major starting ingredient.  This process would 
work equally as well if potassium chloride were used instead of the 
sodium chloride (rock salt).  The sodium chlorate is the salt I 
will cover due to the relatively simple acquisition of the main 
ingredient.  The resulting explosive made from this process would 
serve as a good cheap blasting explosive and will compare favorably 
with 30% straight dynamite in power and blasting efficiency.  This 
explosive can be considered the same as 30% straight dynamite in 
all charge computation.  These explosives and similar compositions 
were used to some extent in WWI by European forces engaged in that 
conflict.  It was used as a grenade and land mine filler.  It's 
only drawback is it's hygroscopic nature (tendency to absorb 
atmospheric moisture).  These explosives also have a relatively 
critical loading density.  They should be used at a loading density 
of 1.3 g/cc.  If this density is not maintained, unreliable or 
incomplete detonation will take place.  These short comings are 
easily over come by coating the finished explosive products with 
molten wax and loading this explosive to the proper density.  This 
explosive is not good for shaped charge use due to it's low 
detonation rate (2900 m/sec).  The major part of the manufacture of 
this explosive from rock salt is the cell reaction where D.C. 
current changes the sodium chloride to chlorate by adding oxygen by 
electrolysis of a saturated brine solution.  The reaction takes 
place as follows: 
 
NaCl + 3H2O ----> NaClO3 + 3H2 
 
     In this reaction the sodium chloride (NaCl) takes the waters' 
oxygen and releases its hydrogen as a gas.  This explosive gas must 
be vented away as sparks or open flame may very well cause a 
tremendous explosion.  This type of process or reaction is called 
a 'cell' reaction.  The cell should be constructed of concrete or 
stainless steel.  I won't give any definite sizes on the cell's 
construction because the size is relative to the power source.  
This cell would have to be large enough to allow the brine to 
circulate throughout the cell to insure as uniform a temperature as 
possible. 
     The speed of the reaction depends on two variables.  Current 
density is a very important factor in the speed of the reaction.  
The advantages of high current densities are a faster and more 
efficient reaction.  The disadvantages are that cooling is needed 
to carry away excess heat and the more powerful power sources are 
very expensive.  For small operations, a battery charger can be 
used (automotive).  This is the example I will use to explain the 
cell's setup and operation (10 amp 12 volt).  The current density 
at the anode (+) and cathode (-) are critical.  This density should 
be 50 amps per square foot at the cathode and 30 amps per square 
foot at the anode.  For a 10 amp battery charger power source this 
would figure out to be 5 5/16" by 5 5/16" for the cathode.  The 
anode would be 6 15/16" by 6 5/16".  The anode is made of graphite 
or pressed charcoal and the cathode is made of steel plate (1/4").  
These would need to be spaced relatively close together.  This 
spacing is done with some type of nonconducting material such as 
glass rods.  This spacing can be used to control the temperature to 
some extent.  The closer together they are, the higher the 
temperature.  These can be placed either horizontally or vertically 
although vertical placement of the anode and cathode would probably 
be the ideal set up as it would allow the hydrogen to escape more 
readily.  The anode would be placed at the bottom  if placed 
horizontally in the cell so that the chlorine released could 
readily mix with the sodium hydroxide formed at the cathode above 
it.  As the current passes through, the cell chlorine is released 
at the anode and mixes with the sodium hydroxide formed at the 
cathode.  Hydrogen is released at the cathode which should bubble 
out of the brine.  This gas is explosive when mixed with air and 
proper precautions should be taken.  PROPER VENTILATION MUST BE 
USED WITH THIS OPERATION TO AVOID EXPLOSION. 
     Temperature control is left up to the builder of the cell.  
The temperature of the cell should be maintained at 56 degrees C 
during the reaction.  This can be done by the circulation of water 
though the cell in pipes.  But the easiest way would be to get an 
adjustable thermostatic switch adjusted to shut the power source 
off until the cell cools off.  This temperature range could be from 
59 degree shut off to a 53 degree start up.  An hour meter would be 
used on the power source to measure the amount of time the current 
passes through the cell.  If the water cooling coil design appeals 
to the manufacturer and an easily obtained cheap source of cool or 
cold water is available, this would be the quickest design to use.  
Again a thermostatic type arrangement would be used to meter the 
cold cooling water through the cell.  The cooling coils would best 
be made of stainless steel to overcome the corrosiveness of the 
salts although this is not entirely necessary.  A thermostatic 
valve would be set to open when the brine electrolyte was heated 
above approximately 58 degrees C.  Again this would be the best and 
most efficient method and the waste heat could be used relatively 
easily. 
     To run the cell, after the cell has been constructed and the 
concrete has been sealed and has set and cured for several weeks, 
is very simple.  First to seal the concrete I suggest Cactus 
Paint's C P 200 series, two component epoxy paint, or an equivalent 
product.  To fill the cell place 454 G sodium chloride in the cell 
(rock salt is excellent here).  Place four liters of distilled 
water into the cell with the salt.  The liquid should cover the 
anode and the cathode completely with room to spare.  Remember that 
some of the water will be used in the reaction.  Thirty three grams 
of muriatic acid (hydrochloric), which should be available at 
swimming pool supply stores or hardware stores, is then added to 
the liquid in the cell.  Be careful when handling ANY acid!!!  Then 
seven grams of sodium dichromate and nine grams of barium chloride 
is added.  The cell is then ready to run if the plates are 
connected to their respective cables.  These cables are best made 
of stainless steel (the most corrosion resistant available).  The 
power supply is then hooked up and the cell is in operation.  The 
power is best hooked up remotely to lessen the chance of explosion.  
Any time the cell runs it will be making hydrogen gas.  THIS GAS IS 
EXPLOSIVE WHEN MIXED WITH AIR AND ALL SPARKS, FLAME, AND ANY SOURCE 
OF IGNITION SHOULD BE KEPT WELL AWAY FROM THE CELL AND THIS CELL 
SHOULD ONLY BE RUN WITH VERY GOOD VENTILATION. The steel plate 
cathode should be hooked to the negative side of the power source 
and the anode hooked to the positive side.  Again these are hooked 
to the power supply via stainless steel cables.  This cell is then 
run at the proper temperature until 1800 amp hours pass through 
(amount per pound of sodium chloride) the electrolyte.  The liquid 
in the cell is then removed and placed in an enameled steel 
container and boiled until crystals form on liquid.  It is cooled 
and filtered, the crystals collected being saved.  This is done 
twice and the remaining liquid saved for the next cell run.  The 
process will become easier as each run is made.  It is a good idea 
to keep records on yields and varying methods to find out exactly 
the best process and yield.  To purify these crystals place 200 
grams in 100 ml distilled water.  Boil the solution until crystals 
are seen on the surface.  Let cool and filter as before.  Save this 
liquid for the next cell run.  These purified crystals are placed 
in a pyrex dish and placed in the oven at 50 degrees C for two 
hours to drive off all remaining water. 
     The explosive is ready to be made.  The crystals or sodium 
chlorate is ground to a powder of face powder consistency.  Ninety 
grams of this sodium chlorate are kneaded with 10 grams of vaseline 
until a uniform mixture is obtained.  This explosive is sensitive 
to shock, friction, and heat.  These should be avoided at all cost.  
This explosive works best at a loading density of 1.3-1.4 G/cc.  If 
this explosive is not used at this density the detonation velocity 
will be low and detonation will be incomplete.  To load to a known 
density measure the volume of the container in which the explosive 
is to be loaded.  This can be done by pouring water out of a 
graduated cylinder until the container is filled.  The total number 
of ml will equal the cc's of the container.  Multiply this number 
times 1.3 and load that much explosive (in grams of course) into 
the container after the container has been dried of all water.  
This procedure should be used with all chlorate explosives 
(plastique explosive from bleach, plastique explosive from H.T.H.).  
This is a good explosive that is cheap and relatively powerful. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVE FROM ASPIRIN 
 
     This explosive is a phenol derivative.  It is toxic and 
explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, 
ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin.  The toxicity 
of this explosive restricts it's use due to the fact that over 
exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and 
sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. 
     This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than 
it's cousin.  It is the first explosive used militarily and was 
adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler.  Originally this 
explosive was derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry 
you can make this one easily in approximately 3 hours from 
acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). 
     This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in 
warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which 
nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in 
water and filtered to obtain the final product.  This explosive is 
called trinitrophenol.  Care should be taken to ensure that this 
explosive is stored in glass containers.  Picric acid will form 
dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals except tin and 
aluminum.  These salts are primary explosives and are super 
sensitive.  They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid. 
     To make picric acid obtain some aspirin.  The cheaper brands 
work best and buffered brands should be avoided.  Powder the 
tablets to a fine consistency.  To extract the acetylsalicylic acid 
from this powder, place this powder in warm methyl alcohol and stir 
vigorously.  Not all of the powder will dissolve.  Filter this 
powder out of the alcohol.  Again, wash this powder that was 
filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser 
amount than the extraction.  Again filter the remaining powder out 
of the alcohol.  Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to 
evaporate in a shallow pyrex dish.  When the alcohol has evaporated 
there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the 
pyrex dish. 
     Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid 
crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml of sulfuric acid (98%, 
specific gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals.  This 
heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the 
thermostat set on 150 degrees F and filled with a good cooking oil.  
When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid, take the 
beaker that you've done this dissolving in (600 ml) out of the oil 
bath. 
     This next step will need to be done with a very good 
ventilation system (it is a good idea to do any procedure in this 
book with good ventilation or outside).  Slowly start adding 58 g 
of sodium nitrate or 77 g potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in 
the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring.  
A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be 
avoided.  (Caution: I repeat, this red gas nitrogen trioxide should 
be avoided.  Very small amounts of this gas are highly poisonous. 
Avoid breathing vapors if you value your life!).  The mixture is 
likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the 
foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in 
the beaker. 
     When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added, the 
mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30-40 degrees C).  The 
solution should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of 
crushed ice and water.  Brilliant yellow crystals will form in the 
water.  These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml of 
boiling distilled water.  This water is allowed to cool and the 
crystals are then filtered out of the water.  These crystals are a 
very, very, pure trinitrophenol.  These crystals are then placed in 
a pyrex dish and placed in an oil bath and heated to 80 degrees C 
and held there for 2 hours.  This temperature is best maintained 
and checked with a thermometer.  The crystals are then powdered in 
small quantities to a face powder consistency.  These powdered 
crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% baseline 
which are heated to melting temperature and poured onto the 
crystals.  The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved 
hands.  This explosive should have a useful plasticity range of 0- 
40 degrees C.  The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.  
It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and 
is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high 
detonation velocity.  It is very suitable for shaped charges and 
some steel cutting charges.  It is not as good an explosive as is 
C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make.  
Again this explosive is VERY toxic and should be treated with great 
care.  AVOID HANDLING BARE HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID 
ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION.  AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE 
MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE 
CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK.  THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF 
MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, SHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY 
HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE, STORAGE IS NOT RECOMMENDED AND EXPLOSIVE SHOULD 
BE MADE UP AS NEEDED.  AVOID CONTACT WITH ALL METALS EXCEPT 
ALUMINUM AND TIN!!! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                NITRO-GELATIN PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVE 
 
     This explosive would be a good explosive for home type 
manufacture.  It is very powerful and is comparatively stable.  
It's power can be compared favorably with the R.D.X. based 
plastique explosives.  The major drawbacks are the problems with 
headaches in use and it's tendency to become insensitive to a 
blasting cap with age.  It is a nitroglycerin based explosive and 
therefore the manufacturer would need to be familiar with the 
handling of nitroglycerin and know the safety procedures associated 
with it's handling.  All of the explosives' bad points can be 
overcome through planning ahead and careful handling of it's 
explosive components.  Gloves should be worn at all times during 
this explosive's manufacture and use.  The nitro headache can be 
avoided by avoiding skin contact and avoidance of the gases formed 
when the explosive is detonated.  This explosive would need to be 
made up prior to it's use to ensure cap reliability and a high 
detonation rate.  Nitroglycerin is sensitive to shock, flame, and 
impurities.  Any of these can and possibly would cause the 
premature detonation of the nitroglycerin.  This is something to 
remember as the detonation of nitroglycerin is very impressive.  
Nitroglycerin, discovered in 1846, is still the most powerful 
explosive available. 
     This explosive is nitroglycerin made plastic by the addition 
of 7-9% nitrocellose.  It is possible to make this nitrocellose but 
much more practical to buy it.  It is available as IMR smokeless 
powder as sold by Dupont.  It should be easily obtained at any area 
sporting goods store. 
     To make this explosive take 8% IMR smokeless powder and mix it 
with a 50/50 ether-ethyl alcohol and mix until a uniform mixture is 
obtained.  This should be a gummy putty like substance which is 
properly called a collidon.  To this collidon is added 92%, by 
weight, nitroglycerin.  This is very, very carefully mixed by 
kneading with gloved hands.  Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol 
manufacture is covered later.  A uniform mixture should be obtained 
by this kneading.  THERE IS DANGER INVOLVED IN THIS STEP AND THIS 
SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS THE MANUFACTURER IS WILLING TO RISK 
HIS LIFE.  This nitro-gelatin is then ready for use.  It is not 
recommended that this explosive be kept for any length of time.  It 
should be used immediately.  If this is impossible the explosive 
can be stored with a relative degree of safety if the temperature 
is kept in the 0-10 degree C range.  This explosive is a good 
choice if the R.D.X. based plastique's cannot be made.  The plastic 
nature of this explosive will deteriorate with age buy can be made 
pliable again with the addition of a small percentage of 50/50% 
ether-ethyl alcohol.  The detonation velocity of this explosive 
should be around 7700-7900 m/sec.  This is a good explosive for 
underwater or U.D.T. type demolition work. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
              GELATINE EXPLOSIVES FROM ANTI-FREEZE 
                       (diethelene glycol) 
 
     This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin formula 
except it is supple and pliable between -10 and -20 degrees C.  
Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerin and is usually 
cheaper.  It needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and 
this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride to the 
antifreeze and checking with a hydrometer and continue to add 
calcium chloride until the proper reading is obtained.  The 
antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride from the 
liquid.  This explosive is superior to the nitro-gelatin formula in 
that it is easier to implement the IMR smokeless powder into the 
explosive and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away 
with.  It is superior in that the formation of the precipitate is 
done very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol.  It's detonation 
properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatin formula.  
Like the nitro-gelatin formula, it is highly flammable and if 
caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will progress to 
detonation.  In this explosive, the addition of 1% sodium carbonate 
is a good idea to reduce the chance of residual acid being present 
in the final explosive.  The following is a slightly different 
formula than the nitro-gelatin one: 
 
Nitro-glycol                      75% 
Guncotton (IMR smokeless)          6% 
Potassium nitrate                 14% 
Flour (as used in baking)          5% 
 
     In this process the 50/50 step is omitted.  Mix the potassium 
nitrate with the nitroglycol.  Remember that this nitroglycol is 
just as sensitive to shock as is nitroglycerin.  The next step is 
to mix in the flour and sodium carbonate.  Mix these by kneading 
with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform.  This kneading 
should be done gently and slowly.  The mixture should be uniform 
when the IMR smokeless powder is added.  Again this is kneaded to 
uniformity.  Use this explosive as soon as possible.  If it must be 
stored, store in a cool dry place (0-10 degrees C).  This explosive 
should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.  These last two explosives are 
very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or 
equivalent.  These explosives are dangerous and should not be made 
unless the manufacturer has had experience with this type compound.  
The foolish and ignorant may as well forget these explosives as 
they won't live to get to use them.  Don't get me wrong, these 
explosives have been manufactured for years with an amazing record 
for safety.  Millions of tons of nitroglycerin have been made and 
used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with 
very few mishaps.  Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and 
their main victims are the stupid and foolhardy.  This explosive 
compound is not to be taken lightly.  If there are any doubts, 
DON'T! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
            NITROGLYCERIN AND NITROGLYCOL MANUFACTURE 
 
     Glycerin and ethylene glycol are related chemically to one 
another and are grouped as an alcohol.  Both of these oily 
substances can be nitrated to form a trinitro form.  These trinitro 
forms are both unstable and will explode with tremendous violence 
and power.  Impurities in this form of the substance will also 
cause the decomposition of the oil.  Glycerin is used for soap 
manufacture and should be easily bought without question.  Ethylene 
glycol is sold as common antifreeze and should be easily acquired.  
Ethylene glycol renders a better product and would be the item of 
choice plus the manufacture of plastique explosives from this oily 
explosive is much easier than from the glycerin nitro form.  If 
ethylene glycol is used it is easier to buy the anhydrous form than 
to desiccate the water from the antifreeze version of this 
chemical.  The glycerin is also best if bought in it's anhydrous 
form.  The use of the anhydrous form (water free) prevents the 
watering down of the nitration acids and thus gives a much higher 
yield of the final product. 
     This nitration is achieved by the action of an acid mixture on 
the glycerin or glycol.  This acid is composed of the following 
percentages: 
 
Nitric acid (70%)                 30% 
Sulfuric acid (98%)               70%  
      or 
Nitric acid (100%)                38% 
Sulfuric acid (98%)               62% 
 
     Of course this is by weight as all the percentages I have 
given.  The first acid mixture won't give as good a yield of nitro 
compound as the second acid mixture.  The first nitric acid 
strength is the only one that is readily available and can be 
bought readily.  The 100% nitric acid is however made readily and 
is really worth the extra trouble because the yield of 
nitroglycerin or glycol is so much higher.  The actual nitration 
should be carried out in a glass (pyrex) or enameled steel 
container.  The acids are poured into the container.  First the 
sulfuric and then the nitric very slowly.  A great deal of heat is 
generated by this acid mixing.  This container should have been 
previously placed in a salted ice bath.  A thermometer is placed in 
the acid.  A stirring apparatus will need to be rigged up.  It 
should be stirred with a fish tank aerator and pump.  This 
compressed air is the only thing that's really safe to stir the 
mixture as nitration is taking place.  As the acid mixture cools, 
a weight of glycerin or glycol should be measured out.  For 
glycerin it should equal 1/6 the total weight of the acid mixture.  
For the glycol it should equal 1/6 of the total weight of the acid 
also. 
     When the temperature of the acid mixture reaches 0-5 degrees 
C the addition of the glycerin or glycol is begun after the mixed 
acids have begun being stirred by the air.  Again this agitation of 
the mixed acids is very important.  It will create a gradual rise 
in temperature and ensures the complete nitration of the glycerin 
or glycol as it is added.  The glycerin-glycol is added in small 
quantities with a careful eye kept on the temperature of the acids.  
If at any time the temperature of the acids rises above 25 degrees 
C, immediately dump the acid-glycol-glycerin into the ice bath.  
This will prevent the overheating of the nitroglycerin or glycol 
and it's subsequent explosion.  If the temperature rises close to 
the 25 degree mark, by all means, stop the addition of the glycerin 
or glycol.  Wait until the temperature starts to fall before 
continuing the addition. 
     The glycol will generate more heat during the nitration than 
will glycerin.  The ice bath may need more ice before the reaction 
is complete, so add when necessary.  After the addition of the 
glycerin or glycol is complete, keep the agitation up and wait for 
the temperature of the glycerin to fall to 0 degrees C.  Stop the 
agitation of the mixed acids and the nitroglycerin.  Let the 
mixture set.  Keep a watch on the temperature just in case.  A 
layer of nitroglycerin or nitroglycol should form on top of the 
acid mixture.  This should be removed with a glass basting syringe.  
Carefully place this with it's own volume of water (distilled) in 
a beaker.  To this add small quantities of sodium bicarbonate to 
neutralize the acid remaining in the nitro compound.  In all steps 
with this nitro-oil, keep the oil at ten degrees C or colder for 
the glycol.  When the addition of the bicarbonate no longer causes 
a fizzing (reacting with the excess acid), check the water-nitro 
with litmus paper (E. Merik).  The reading should be around 7.  If 
it is below 6.5, add more bicarbonate until the reading is close to 
seven or is seven.  The nitroglycerin or nitro glycol should be 
settled to the bottom.  It should again be sucked up off the bottom 
into the clean basting syringe (glass).  USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN 
HANDLING THIS NITROGLYCERIN OR NITROGLYCOL, BECAUSE THE SLIGHTEST 
BUMP COULD POSSIBLY EXPLODE IT.  WHEN SUCKING THIS OIL OFF THE 
BOTTOM OF THE WATER DO NOT BUMP THE BOTTOM WITH THE TIP OF THE 
BASTING SYRINGE!  If necessary, suck up some of the water and 
remove it from the nitroglycerin or glycol using forecepts and 
small pieces of calcium chloride.  The calcium chloride is placed 
in such a way that it only contacts the residual water in the 
nitroglycerin or nitroglycol.  To make this oil safer to handle, 
add acetone to the nitroglycerin or glycol in the following 
proportions: 
 
     25% acetone    75% nitroglycerin or nitroglycol  
 
     This will make the oil less sensitive to shock.  This oil, 
when so mixed will still be sensitive to a #8 blasting cap.  
Remember that the oil contains this acetone when measuring out the 
oil to be used in other explosives.  It may be mixed in the 
formulas that call for nitroglycerin or nitroglycol and will 
usually improve the incorporation of these mixtures.  To obtain 
maximum cap sensitivity the acetone should be allowed to evaporate 
before use of the finished explosive compound. 
     This oil should not be stored if at all possible.  But if 
completely necessary store in a cool or cold, dry, place when it is 
free of acidity.  Acidity in this oil can cause the explosive 
decomposition of this oil in storage. 
     These oils, if handled or their fumes breathed, will cause 
tremendous headaches and should be avoided at all costs.  They are 
cardiovascular dilators when contacted and extreme care should 
always be used when handling these explosives. 
     As stated earlier, these explosive oils have been produced in 
large quantities and therefore should be reasonably safe.  THIS 
MANUFACTURE PROCESS SHOULD NEVER BE TRIED BY SOMEONE THAT IS 
UNFAMILIAR WITH CHEMISTRY, CHEMISTRY LAB PROCEDURES, OR THE 
EXPLOSIVE COMPOUNDS PRODUCED AND THEIR DANGERS! 
     Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol detonate at approximately 6700- 
8500 m/sec (depending on the power of the detonators - the stronger 
. . . the higher the velocity).  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                     EXPLOSIVES FOR KIDDIES 
 
     Ok, I've described some very difficult procedures involving 
chemical compounds that may not be available to everyone . . . so 
I will now describe two classic formulas that can be manufactured 
easily and make relatively harmless explosions. 
     The first involves hydrochloric acid.  This acid has MANY 
different names but can be bought very easily from your local 
hardware store as Muriatic acid used for cleaning sidewalks etc. 
It will only cost about $5 for enough acid to make plenty of bombs. 
     Once you have the acid, you will need plastic soda bottles, 
the two liter ones work nicely, and one or three liters work quite 
well also.  Before opening the bottle of acid (do this outside as 
the fumes are most mortifying) make up several sticks of tin foil.  
To do this, take a sheet of tin foil about three feet long.  Roll 
the tin foil as if it were a joint along the length of the large 
piece you have just pulled out (so you have a three foot long tube 
of tin foil).  Then rip this tin foil "joint" into pieces, each 
about three inches long.  You will only need 7 or 8 of these three 
inch pieces per bomb. 
     Finally you fill the empty soda bottle about 2 inches full of 
the Muriatic acid (hydrochloric) and add 7 or 8 sticks of tin foil.  
If you want to be exact and not waste any of the acid, check it's 
molarity, and calculate the proper amounts of each of the 
reactants.  Put the cap back on TIGHTLY and give it a good shake, 
then place it down and leave quietly.  In about 25 seconds the 
bottle will expand profusely and then explode with the sound 
equivalent to a half stick of dynamite.  It can also send a mailbox 
"hurling 25 feet into the air" as noted by one local newspaper. 
     I recommend you wear protective glasses, gloves, and a 
respirator while performing this one.  Also, do not try it in a 
glass container, the lid will give out before the glass and you 
will only get a large toxic cloud of mostly hydrogen and water 
vapor (hmmmmmm). 
 
     The second bomb is even simpler than the first.  Get a tennis 
ball.  Stab it with a sharp object, making a small slit.  Buy some 
"Sock it" or other strong chlorinating compound from a hardware 
store during the outdoor swimming season or from a swimming pool 
store year round.   
     Now all you have to do is fill the tennis ball full of the 
chlorinating compound (especially one used for shock chlorinating), 
this is done very easily with a plastic funnel.  Then make sure you 
are outside, and fill the ball (again using a funnel) with regular 
gasoline (lawn mower type will do just fine).  Saturate the 
chlorinating compound quickly and don't hold the ball in your 
hands.  If you did it right, in about 10 seconds the ball will 
start to hiss then burst into flames.   
     This is not a very impressive explosion but it can be fun and 
interesting especially to a pyro.  This works especially well for 
blowing up cars.  Substitute a ping pong ball for the tennis ball, 
use less gas, and drop it into a car's gas tank.  Get the hell out, 
and don't tell the feds where you got ANY of these crazy ideas! 
 
 
     Well that about raps it up!  I hope you have lots of fun with  
these Kitchen Improvised Explosives and if you have any questions, 
comments, or lawsuits, you can reach me through Gordo at the BLACK 
PLAGUE BBS (201) 701-0647 home of the Dissident Aggressors 
Alliance, Dial-A-Bomb Threat, and the Anarchists' Alibi. 
 
 
