>From hplabs!hpsdl39!martya Thu Mar 1 13:57:51 1990
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 90 13:57:51 PST
From: Marty Albini <hplabs!hpsdl39!martya>
Subject: beer pancakes
Status: RO

>Anyone have any good *food* recipes using beer as an ingredient?

	How about beer pancakes?


		dry stuff

	*1/4 cp oat flour
	*1/4 cp graham flour (a coursely ground whole wheat flour used
		for making graham crackers)
	*1/2 cp whole wheat pastry flour
		(1 cp total)
		-or-
	*1 cp whole wheat pastry flour

	1/2 tsp baking powder (use 3/4 tsp of the non-alum kind)
	1/2 tsp baking soda
	1/2 tsp salt
	1 heaping tbl dry malt extract
	1 heaping tbl health-food store brewer's yeast

optional:
	1 tbl sesame seeds

		wet stuff

	1 cp bland, boring, light beer, easy on the hops (unless you
		want to eat the whole batch yourself)
	1 1/2 tsp lemon juice (1 good squeeze of 1/2 a lemon)
	1/2 stick butter/margarine 


	Set margarine in the frying pan to melt. Mix dry ingrediants
in one bowl, wet in another. Add the melted butter to the wet and mix
well just before stirring in dry stuff. If you want skinnier pancakes,
thin batter with beer.

	Serves two. You might want to make a double batch, as this
leaves 1/2 a can of bad beer sitting around, and I for one don't drink
before breakfast, and if I did, I wouldn't drink this stuff.

	If the beer isn't flat, you can reduce the baking powder and
soda. The lemon juice is just to react with the soda, so that can go
away too. If you use fresh beer, the above makes very light and 
fluffy pancakes.

	Enjoy!
- --
________________________________________________Marty Albini___________
"Thank god for long-necked bottles, the angel's remedy."--Tom Petty
phone    : (619) 592-4177
UUCP     : {hplabs|nosc|hpfcla|ucsd}!hp-sdd!martya
Internet : martya%hp-sdd@hp-sde.sde.hp.com (or @nosc.mil, @ucsd.edu)
CSNET    : martya%hp-sdd@hplabs.csnet
US mail  : Hewlett-Packard Co., 16399 W. Bernardo Drive, San Diego CA 92127-1899 USA


>From jshirey@jarthur.Claremont.edu Thu Mar 1 20:04:09 1990
Date:     Thu, 1 Mar 90 20:45:17 PST
From: Joe Shirey <jshirey@jarthur.Claremont.edu>
Subject:  harvey mudd homebrew club
Status: O

Hello, I am a student at Harvey Mudd College in Claremont, CA (earthquake
central).  We have a brewing club with about 25 members (that is about 5%
of our college population).  We are interested in sharing recipies and
exchanging brewing lore.  Our club is archiving all recipies of 
homebrew that we make.  One of the most interesting and tasty is:

WASHINGTON APPLE ALE
4 lbs Telford's Yorkshire Nut Brown Ale hopped malt
1 lb honey
1/2 lb corn sugar
1/2 lb dark crystal malt
4 lbs red apples
2 teaspoons cinnamon

In cold water place crushed dark crystal grains enclosed in a cheesecloth,
and bring the water to boil.  As boiling commences remove crystal malt 
and add Telford's.  Boil for approximately 15-20 minutes.  Add sugar and 
honey and boil for 10 more minutes.  Turn down heat so that boiling
stops.  Add cinnamon and sliced apples to mixture and let steep for 15 
minutes.  Remove apples with strainer and transfer mixture to your
carboy.  This beer has a medium body with a hint of apple flavor.  
It is very smooth with little or no bitterness (that can be changed by
using finishing hops).  

Thanks for your outlet to exchange information, you can contact me
at jshirey@jarthur

Sincerely,
Joseph Shirey


>From enders@plains.NoDak.edu Sat Mar 3 22:12:15 1990
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 90 22:12:15 -0600
From: Enders <enders@plains.NoDak.edu>
Subject: Beer Cake!?!?
Status: O

     Since we're discussing recipies using beer as an ingredient, here's one 
thats been a favorite of mine for quite a while:

     Beer Cake

     Dry stuff:  2C Sugar
                 3C Flour
               0.5C Cocoa
                 1t Salt
                 2t Baking Soda
              
     Liquids:  0.75C Oil
                  4t Vinegar
                  1t Vanilla
                0.5C Water
                12oz Beer          (Porter or Stout would compliment the
                                    cocoa, but even Bud works quite well)

     Procedure:

     Sift all dry ingredients together into a large bowl, make three wells in
     the dry mixture (one large and two small).  Pour the oli into the large 
     well, the vinegar into one of the small wells, and the vanilla into the
     other small well.  Pour beer over the mixture, and add water to the
     mixture.  Mix well.  Bake for 25-30 mins at 350F.  Serve with whipped
     cream and enjoy!

     Try it, you'll like it!!

Todd Enders                    ARPA: enders@plains.nodak.edu
Computer Center                UUCP: ...!uunet!plains.nodak.edu!enders
Minot State University         Bitnet: enders@plains.bitnet
Minot, ND 58701

>From darryl@ism.isc.com (Darryl Richman) Sat Mar 3 21:38:13 1990
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 90 21:38:13 PST
From: darryl@ism.isc.com (Darryl Richman)
Subject: Mild Ale recipe
Status: O

Pete Soper asks what yeast did I use in in my Mild Ales.  Here's the
recipe:

For 10 gallons:

5   lbs. Klages (2 row) Malt
4	 Mild Malt
2	 80L Crystal
0.5	 English Pale Malt
0.5	 Flaked Barley
0.2	 Chocolate

Bittering Hops:
1   oz.	 Willamette Leaf (5.9%)
1/8	 Cascade Leaf (6.7%)
1/8	 Eroica Leaf (13.4%)

Flavoring Hops:
0.5 oz.	Willamettte Leaf

Water Treatment:
Medium soft water
2 gm.	 MgSO4
2	 CaSO4
2	 KCl
2	 CaCO3

Mash in all grains to 3 gallons of water at 134F.  Hold 120-125 for :55.
Raise to 157F for :50 (iodine negative after :10);  raise to 172F for :15.
Sparge with 5.75 gal. (first runnings 1.079, final 1.006).  Boil til break
(:15), add bittering hops, boil :55, add flavoring hops, boil :10.

Pitched 5 gallons with Sierra Nevada and 5 with Wyeast's "Northern
Whiteshield" (no, I don't have the number recorded).  OG 1.031, FG of
SN was 1.011 (~2.5% v/v), NW 1.014 (~2% v/v).  Kegged both with 90 gms
dextrose in each.

Notes:  This is the only beer that I could make 10 gallons of on my
stove.  I did this by mashing and boiling a big 5 gallon beer and then
adding boiled, cooled water to get 10 gallons.  The Sierra Nevada Mild
was fairly dry and a little thin.  The NW was a bit sweet and rich beyond
its gravity.  The light priming gave these beers the traditional light
carbonation appropriate for English style beers.  Both had an emphasis
on malt, with crystal and chocolate bringing up the rear;  the hops
were noticable but not in the foreground.  Both beers went fast.
I brewed this 1/31/88 and kegged it on 2/20.

With my keg brewery, I could probably make a barrel of this, but then I'd
have to buy 6 more Cornelius kegs!

		--Darryl Richman


>From roberts%studguppy@LANL.GOV (Doug Roberts) Wed Nov 14 21:11:35 1990
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 90 21:11:35 MST
From: roberts%studguppy@LANL.GOV (Doug Roberts)
Subject: A string of exceptional successes
Status: O

My last three batches were all exceedingly good, so I thought I'd
share the recipes with you. They are all-grain batches, using
Papazian's temperature-controlled mash.

1. Tina Marie Porter

8# Klages 2-row
1# Munich Malt
1/2# Crystal, 90L
1/2# Chocolate
1/2# Black Patent
1/2# Roasted Barley
1/2 oz. Northern Brewer's, 1/2 oz. Cascades; 10.75 AAU - Boil
1/2 oz. Cascades - Finish (After the boil, while I'm cooling the wort
with my immersion chiller)
1 tsp. Gypsum
1/2 tsp Irish moss, last 20 minutes
Pitched w/14 g of Whitbread Dry Yeast, rehydrated in 1/2 C 100F water

This was a marvelous bitter-sweet velvet black Porter.

2. Perle Pale

8# Klages
1# Flaked Barley
1/2# Toasted Malted Klages - 10 min @ 350F
1/2 # Cara Pils
1 1/2 oz. Perle hops, 12.4 AAU - boil
1/2 oz Willamette, finish
1 tsp gypsom
1/2 tsp Irish Moss
Pitched w/14 g Muntona dry yeast, rehaydrated

Perle Pale was a beautiful light-golden ale, crisp yet full-bodied.

3. Cat's Paw Brown Ale

7# Klages
1/4# Chocolate
1/4# Black Patent
1/2# Crystal, 90L
1.0 oz. Willamette, 0.8 oz. Perle: 9.84 AAU - boil
1/2 oz. Willamette - finish 
1 tsp gypsum
1/2 tsp Irish moss
Pitched w/ rehydrated Whitbread

This batch was what my fond memories of drinking London Brown Ales in
Canterbury, UK were all about. A classic. Enjoy.

--Doug
================================================================
Douglas Roberts                |
Los Alamos National Laboratory |I can resist anything
Box 1663, MS F-609             |  except temptation.
Los Alamos, New Mexico 87545   |  ...
(505)667-4569                  |Oscar Wilde
dzzr@lanl.gov                  |
================================================================


>From wfp5p@euclid.acc.virginia.edu Sun Apr 29 13:52:02 1990
Date:     Sun Apr 29 13:52:02 1990
From: "William F. Pemberton" <wfp5p@euclid.acc.virginia.edu>
Subject:  Not-so-sweet Beer
Status: O

Well, here is the update on my sweet beer.  The Steam Beer turned out 
really well.  It hasn't really aged very long, but I am quite happy with
the results.  If anyone is interested, here is the recipe I used:

6.6 lbs  M&F Amber Extract
1/4 lb   Toasted Barley
1/4 lb   Crystal Malt
1.75 oz  Northern Brewers Hops
Vierka Lager Yeast 

Boil was for 45 minutes, aged in carbouy for 2 weeks.

On an unrelated issue, some one was mentioning 'Dark Sleep Stout.'  I
just did a batch and the OG was 1.065, right on.
 
Bill
(flash@virginia.edu)


>From pms@Corp.Sun.COM Mon Apr 30 11:24:46 1990
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 90 11:24:46 PDT
From: pms@Corp.Sun.COM (Patrick Stirling (Sun HQ Consulting Services))
Subject: Coffee Beer
Status: O

My last batch was 'Mocha Porter'. From memory, the recipe was
	- 6.6lb Amber Extract (M&F)
	- 1lb Crystal
	- 1/2lb Chocolate
	- 1/4lb Black Patent (not cracked)
	- 1/2lb Colombian Supremo whole coffee beans
	- 1/4lb cooking chocolate

I can't remember what hops I used, sorry! It's come out well, very full
bodied with a very distinct coffee taste and aftertaste. Next time I'll
use less. The only problem is that there's no way (that I could think
of) of sanitizing the coffee beans. I tossed them into the primary
fermenter (a plastic bin), then racked into a 5gal glass carboy after 3
days (leaving the beans and a *lot* of sediment behind. Then I bottled
after another 3 weeks with 1/2cup of light dry malt extract. Again, a
*lot* of sediment (at least 2"). After a couple of weeks in the bottles
I tried it, and it was already fizzier than it should have been! Now, another
couple of weeks later, it's a little fizzier still, but not too bad. I plan
to drink it pretty fast!

patrick


>From gcb@hpfigcb.hp.com Thu 3 May 11:48:01 1990
Date: Thu, 3 May 90 11:48:01 mdt
From: Glenn Colon-Bonet <gcb@hpfigcb.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Oatmeal Stout (recipe)
Status: O

In Homebrew Digest #411, Kevin McBride asks for Oatmeal Stout recipes.
This is my attempt to duplicate the flavor of Watneys Cream Stout.
It came out a little on the thin side, but the flavor is almost
right on the money!  The recipe calls for using both oatmeal and
lactose.  Lactose is used in sweet stouts to give it a creamy sweet
taste, while the oatmeal adds a silky smoothness to the palate/flavor.
You can adjust the amounts of lactose and oatmeal in the recipe to
taste.  The recommended amounts of lactose from various books seems
to be around 8 oz.  One pound of oatmeal seems to be about right, but
you may want to be careful about increasing it very much because of its
oil/protein content.  The beer from this recipe came out great!
I can't wait to go tap off a glass of this stuff tonite!
			Enjoy!
			-Glenn

============================================================
April 1, 1990					   Batch #29
Stout			 All Grain	 Cream of Oats Stout

Ingredients

	     6 lbs Klages 2 row pale malt
	     1/2 lb Dextrin malt
	     1 1/8 lb rolled oats
	     1/2 lb Crystal malt
	     1/2 lb Chocolate malt
	     1/4 lb Roasted Barley
	     1 oz Cluster hops (boiling) alpha=7.4
	     1/2 oz. Cascade hops (finishing)
	     10 oz. Lactose
	     1/2 tsp Irish moss
	     German Ale yeast (wyeast #1007)

Recipe
	  Dough in with 3 qts cold water. Raise temp to  153
	  F, hold for 2 hours or until iodine test indicates
	  complete  conversion.  Rouse	 and   transfer   to
	  lauter-tun,  sparge to yield 7 gallons wort,  boil
	  for 1 hour adding  boiling  hops.   Add  finishing
	  hops	and  Irish moss at 10 minutes.	Sparge, cool
	  and pitch.

Original Gravity:	1.040

 - April 8, 1990 -
Gravity Reading:	1.018

 - April 25, 1990 -
Gravity Reading:	1.015

 - April 30, 1990 -
Finishing Gravity:	1.015

Kegging:
	  Pressure Carbonated.

Comments:
	  Very smooth, silky mouth feel.  Great flavor, nice
	  sweetness  with  mild roasted malt flavors.  Some-
	  what thin for style, use Ale malt next  time,  use
	  more	dextrin  and  pale malts, and mash at higher
	  temp?  Overall, a very nice beer!


>From lbr%holos0@gatech.edu Mon May 7 21:15:58 1990
Date: Mon, 7 May 90 21:15:58 EDT
From: Len Reed <lbr%holos0@gatech.edu>
Subject: Low extract--Stale Malt?
Status: O

I tried to make Dos Equis on Saturday.  (I figured that Cinco de
Mayo was a good day for it.):

     3# 6.75 oz. 6 row malt (1.6 degL)
     1# 1.5 oz. 2 row malt (1.2 degL)
     4# 5 oz. Munich malt (9.7 degL)
     3.75 oz. crystal malt (80 degL)

Moderate carbonate water (125 ppm CO3--)
Halltertau hops

The color came out perfect.  The mash went fine, with no pH or
temperature problems, and sparging was the same as always.  I got
15% less extract than I expected based on past experience.  I'm not
worried, of course, I just want to know what happened.

The reason for the low extract has to be the malt.  My 6-row lager
and my Munich malt were over a year old, stored under dubious
conditions (up to 80 degF last summer).  My calculations tell me
that my extract had to be off 20% on these grains to get 15% off
overall.  I suppose that's possible.

I'd never used Munich malt before.  Dave Miller says he gets
1.033/lb/gal. from Munich and 6-row malt.  Since I get 31 from 6-
row, I used that figure for Munich, too.  My intuition tells me
that I should get slightly less, though, so maybe some of my 15%
comes from an optimistic value for this grain.

Anyway, I still have 20 pounds of the 6-row malt.  Does anyone know
of a reason I shouldn't use it up, even though it's probably
deteriorated?  I'll just use more of it to compensate.


>From andy@mosquito.cis.ufl.edu Tue May 8 11:27:56 1990
Date: Tue, 08 May 90 11:27:56 EDT
From: "Andy Wilcox" <andy@mosquito.cis.ufl.edu>
Subject: Couple O' Recipes
Status: O


Things are looking good here in Gainesville!  Some of
you may recall that in March, my beers won First and Second
in the monthly homebrew competition.  (Actually, the day
after that was posted, the nice folks from "The Brewster"
called to let me know there was a scoring mistake.  They
actually placed Second and Fifth.  Not bad though, out
of 25 beers! ) Stout was the category of the month.

Here's the recipe for the Second Place beer:

"Blackberry Stout"

History -- Inspired by Papazian, I thought a fruity
stout would be great, but cherries didn't sound good
enough.  Something at the back of the throat, a tangy
sour finish...  Yes!  My favorite childhood fruit!

1 can Mount Mellick Famous Irish Stout Extract
3 #   M&F Dark Dry Malt Extract
4 #   Frozen Blackberries
1 #   Dark Crystal Malt
1/2 # Black Patent Malt
1/2 # Roasted Barley
1.5oz Hallertauer
.5oz  Fuggles
1/2 cup Corn sugar for priming

Specifics: Start all the grains in brewpot with cool water,
remove when boil commences. Add all malt, and Hallertauer
hops. Boil 1 hour.  Add Fuggles hops, boil for 5 more
minutes.  Remove from heat.  Add thawed blackberries and
steep for 15 mins.  Cool and dump the whole mess in the
primary.  When moved to secondary, leave the blackberries
behind.  
This stout reaches it's prime in 4-6 weeks, and rapidly
deteriorates from there, aquiring a winey flavor as the
residual blackberry sweetness erodes.  
(Amateur) Judges Comment: "Good and black.  Good mouth
feel. Unbelievable finish - seems to last forever!  Fruit?
I want the recipe.  Nice Job."

In April, the contest was English Bitters, and I'm happy
to report a First place, for real, out of 8 entries.

"KGB Bitters"

1 can Alexanders Sun Country Pale Malt Extract (4#)
3.3 # Northwester Amber Malt Extract (the stuff in the bag)
1/2 # Dark Crystal
3oz   CFJ-90 Fresh Hops
1/4 tsp Irish moss

Specifics:  Start all the grains in brewpot with cool water,
remove when boil commences. Add all malt, and 1.5oz hops.
Boil 1 hour.  Scoop out boiling hops, and add 1/2oz more
hops, and irish moss.  Boil 5 minutes.  Remove from heat
and add 1/2oz more hops.  Steep 10 minutes and cool.  Add
the wort and final 1/2oz hops to the primary fermenter.
(Amateur) Judges Comment: "Beautiful Color.  A bit under
carbonated.  Great hop nose and finishes very clean.
Good balance with malt and hops.  Lighten up on the
finishing hops a bit and it's perfect.  Very Marketable."

I can't resist mentioning that I've used an aluminum pot
for all the beers (-: (-: (-:  Water filtered with a
simple activated carbon system (I believe this to be VERY
VERY important.  There is a dramatic difference in the
filtered vs. unfiltered water here.  Anybody I've ever
run the blind taste test with the water can tell 
instantly.  I assume it affects the beer in the same way.)
and glass fermenters.

With a second and a first, I'm WAY out in front for
"Hogtown Brewer of the Year"!  Wish me luck with the
"Canadian light honey lager" for this months light(er)
beer showdown.

Comments on the recipes?  Enjoy!

 -Andy


>From enders@plains.NoDak.edu Tue May 8 13:50:05 1990
Date: Tuesday, 8 May 1990 13:50:05 EST
From: Enders <enders@plains.NoDak.edu>
Subject: Pale Ale, Round #2
Status: O

     My latest batch of pale ale is proceeding nicely,  I racked to the 
secondary last night after a vigorous 5 day ferment @ 70-75 deg. F.  I dry
hopped with 1/2 oz. 7.6% alpha Perle (for a 2 gal. batch).  This batch tastes
cleaner comming out of the primary (probably due to a better job of racking
the trub before pitching).  It seems to be a bit better balanced than the first
batch.  We'll know after it sits in the bottle for a while :-)


     For the curious, here's the lowdown on batch #2:

     Batch #2: Pale Ale                (Lower hop rate, prob. not enuf for IPA)

     2.4 # Pale Ale malt               (for 2 US gal.)
     0.4 # 80L Crystal malt
     0.5 oz. 7.6% alpha Perle Hops     (flavor)
     0.5 oz. 7.6% alpha Perle Hops     (finish, dry hopped)
     Wyeast #1028 London Ale yeast     (recult. from bat. #1, 500ml starter)

Production:

     Mash water: 5 qts. @ 140F
     Mash in: @132F, pH adjusted to 5.4     
     Mash:  152-150F for 2 hrs.
     Mash out:  5 mins @ 168F

     Sparge:  2.5 gal. @ 160F

     Boil: 90 mins
     Hops: 1 addition, 45 mins from end of boil     (changed from 60)

     O.G.: 1.041
     F.G. ????     (probably around 1.010)

     Note that I don't have a final gravity figure, since it's not done.  
The first batch had a final gravity of 1.008, but the mash temp. was lower
(150-146F) and the O.G. was slightly higher (1.043).  I'll have the exact 
figure in about a week or two.

Todd Enders                            arpa: enders@plains.nodak.edu
Computer Center                        uucp: ...!uunet!plains!enders
Minot State University                   or: ...!hplabs!hp-lsd!plains!enders
Minot, ND 58701                        Bitnet: enders@plains.bitnet


>From bradley@dehn.math.nwu.edu Fri May 11 12:10:16 1990
Date: Fri, 11 May 90 12:10:16 CDT
From: "R. Bradley" <bradley@dehn.math.nwu.edu>
Subject: Strong stout, nekkid druids
Status: O

I've been a subscriber to this digest for two days only, but already
I'm impressed by its high literary and technical standards.

Yesterday I drank my last bottle of Russian Empirical Stout with a couple
of close friends.  The recipe was inspired by "Imperial Russian Stout"
in Dave Line's "Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy".  It was the second
anniversary of the bottling date and so the beer showed a little oxidation,
but by and large it was still in excellent shape.  Viscous and black with
light carbonation and a fine-beaded medium-brown head, it still had good
balance, although the hop bitterness had faded with time to give
predominance to the dark malts.  It was bittersweet and almost
unbelievably long in the finish.  Here is the recipe, with no apologies for
metric units (1 lb. = 450 gm, 1 U. S. gal. = 3.8 litres):

2500  gm   Crushed Pale Malt (Canadian 2-row)
 400  gm   Crushed Caramel Malt
 150  gm   Crushed Chocolate Malt
 150  gm   Crushed Black Malt
2000  gm   Diastatic Malt Extract (unhopped)
  80  gm   Fuggles Hops
   8  gm   Chinook Hops
   1  tsp  Irish Moss
   1  tsp  Leigh Williams Yeast
   7  tsp  Pasteur Champagne Yeast (Red Star)
  45  gm   Dextrose (1/4 cup) for bottling

Yield: 13.5 litres at a specific gravity of 1106.  That's about 70%
efficiency by weight for the grains.

The brew date was December 13, 1987.  I used Toronto tap water treated
with 1/4 tsp. Epsom Salts.  The mash was for 1 hour at about 68 C.
The boil was for two hours (to reduce the volume) with all hops added
for the second hour (that's right - no finishing hops).  And, yes, the
brewpot was aluminum.

The primary fermentation was in a bucket for 4 days, with the first
racking into three 4-litre glass jugs with blow-out hoses.  SG 1048.
Second racking was 24 days later, into two 4-litre and one 2-litre jugs.
SG 1032.  At this stage the Leigh Williams yeast (all-purpose
dried beer yeast) seemed dead, so the champagne yeast was added.
I bottled one half-litre bottle at the time of the second racking,
and 28 regular bottles on May 9, 1988  The final gravity was 1031, so
the beer was about 10% alcohol by volume.

Any comments from people who have managed to brew at higher
original gravities than about 1066 (Battle of Hastings, right?) without
using extract would be most welcome.  Using a variant on the traditional
"strong ale/small beer" method, I can get a nice winter warmer with
an SG in the mid-sixties, but anything better seems to require malt
extract or ridiculously protracted boils.

And yes, I do brew at regular gravities as well.  Most of my brews start
in the 1040s.

Here's a partial reply to Gary Benson: I heard Pete Seeger singing your
"nekkid druids" quote on a recording of "Old Time Religion".  He had
quite a few non-standard verses (i.e. not biblical in origin) in addition
to that one.

Rob Bradley
bradley@math.nwu.edu


>From hplabs!gatech!oldale.pgh.pa.us!ken Fri May 11 12:10:16 1990
Date: Fri, 11 May 90 12:10:16 CDT
From: hplabs!gatech!oldale.pgh.pa.us!ken (Kenneth R. van Wyk)
Subject: my two cents on mashing
Status: O

For what it's worth, I thought that I'd toss in my feelings on
mashing.  Perhaps it'll be useful to those who might be considering
trying a mash but don't think that they have the
{equipment|experience|inclination|whatever}.

Though I still consider myself a novice (just started brewing in
December, but I've been doing a lot of experimenting), I've been
really drawn to the idea of mashing.  When first learning about the
logistical details and all, I thought that I wouldn't be able to do it
without considerable expense.  Then, I gradually talked myself into
trying things, after thinking out each step of the progress.

First, I decided that I'd start with doing a small mash in addition to
2 cans (actually, bags) of extract.  I made an India Pale Ale (I'll
include the recipe for those who can stomache this long message :-)
and mashed an additional 2 lbs of pale malt.  Then, I tried a half
mash.  The half mash is still fermenting, so I can't comment on that,
but the IPA was, IMHO, truly wonderful.  Certainly the best that I've
made so far.

I use a 5 gallon stainles steel stockpot that I got for $32.95 at a
local Service Merchandise (discount warehouse store) for boiling and I
mash in a 2.5 gallon stockpot that cost me about $15 a few years ago.
For sparging, I use the "tea bag" method with a sparging bag (so the
local supplier calls it - it's actually a filter bag with a coarser
bottom than side) and sparge in 2 baths of 170F water.  Granted, the
extraction efficiency with this type of sparge can't be as good as
doing a false-bottom, etc., sparge, but I have no complaints thus far.

For the boil, I use about 3.5-4 gallons in the stockpot.  Of course,
you have to be extra careful for a boilover with this much wort in a 5
gallon pot, but the gas stove helps in turning things off Real Fast if
need be.

Finally, I made an immersion worth chiller using 10 ft. of copper
tubing, a compression fitting, and a couple other odds and ends - all
bought at the local Hechinger (mainstream (yuppy) house supply store).
The entire chiller cost me about $13 and 10 minutes to make.  If
there's enough interest, I'll post the details of what I did.  

I put the stockpot in my basement utility sink with the wort chiller
inside, and the sink filled up to about the 2/3 mark on the stockpot.
Then, I crank up the chiller, carefully allowing some water to drain
from the sink as it gets near the top of the stockpot.  Between the
chiller and the cold water on the outside of the stockpot, I can cool
4 gallons of boiling wort in about 15-20 minutes easily.  (I add some
previously boiled and cooled water to the carboy when I pitch the
yeastie boys to bring the level up to about 5 gallons.)

Sorry to get so long winded.  I think that my approach works pretty
well - the results have been real tasty.  BTW, I found that mashing 5
lbs of malt in my last beer was tremendously *easier* than mashing 2
lbs in my first attempt, because maintaining a constant temperature
was (not surprisingly) much easier.

For those who have stuck it out so far, here's the recipe for the IPA
that I made (which is modified from Papazian's IPA):

Pale After Math Ale (I brewed this after an exam...):

6.6 lbs American Classic light extract
1   lb  Crystal malt (didn't have the lovibond - and I added this at
        sparging time)
2   lbs British Pale Malt (mashed via step procedure up to 155F)
3   oz  Fuggles leaf hops (1 @ 50 minutes, 1 @ 30 minutes, 1 @ 20 minutes)
1   oz  Cascade leaf hops (sprinkled in from 10-0 minutes)
2   tsp gypsum (in mash water, to lower ph)
1/2 tsp Irish moss (added at 10 minutes)
1   pkg M.eV. high temperature British ale yeast

Notes:
 - I used a 1 Qt. starter culture started 2 days before brewing.  
 - For bottling, I used 1/2 cup corn sugar prepared in a coffee maker,
  with about 1/2 oz. Cascade leaves in the filter and the corn sugar in
  the pot.  Makes a great semi-dry hopping.  The aroma on the IPA was,
  IMHO, perfect!
 - O.G. was 1.054.
 - F.G. was 1.018.

Again, sorry for being so long winded here.  Hope someone gets some
use out of all these words...

Cheers,

Ken van Wyk
ken@oldale.pgh.pa.us


>From cckweiss@castor.ucdavis.edu Thu May 17 09:22:11 1990
Date: Thu, 17 May 90 09:22:11 -0700
From: cckweiss@castor.ucdavis.edu
Subject: Kudos and a last note on homebrew for the unwashed...
Status: O

I've been hanging around this net for about a month, and I think it's 
time I said "Thanks" to Rob Gardner for keeping this thing going. Nice 
job! (insert E-mail convention for cheers and confetti) Post a mailing 
address and I'll send ya a brewski.

Re a homebrew for mass consumption, I've had a revision to my 
earlier posting to Todd Enders. I uncapped the first of my smoked 
beer yesterday, and I think it might be a good one to try on the Bud 
crowd. It's not too far from the mainstream in terms of color and 
bitterness, but it's definitely different from anything you could pick 
up at the 7-11 or other convenience store of choice.

I followed the recipe for rauchbier in Joy of Homebrewing with a few 
modifications. I lightened it up a bit (in deference to what I'm told 
will be 100+ temperatures coming soon), and switched some hops 
from boiling to finish, just cause I like more finishing hops. With the 
deletion of the darker grain adjuncts, this became a real simple all-
extract recipe. This is from memory, since I don't have any notes here at the cube:

7 lb. light extract (I used bulk)
2 - 3 gallons water
1 1/2 tsp. liquid smoke (now that I know I like this stuff, I'll try 
smoking grain on the BBQ soon)
1 1/2 oz. Tettnanger boiling hops
1 oz. Tettenanger finishing hops
1/2 tsp. Irish Moss
2 pkg. the dreaded Red Star lager yeast

Boil it up for 45 min. 5 more min. with moss, 2-3 min with finishing 
hops.

Strain into primary with cold water in the bottom, and pitch the 
yeast (rehydrated in 95 degree water) As Pete Soper pointed out, I 
must be pitching into 120 degree wort with this technique, not the 
95-100 degree I thought I was. However, it took off in 12 hours. 3 
days in the primary, rack to secondary, 3-4 weeks in the secondary, 
2 weeks in the bottle, and down my throat.

It's basically a nice light beer, but with a definite smoke aftertaste. 
Like I said, mainstream, but with a non-commercial twist.

Ken Weiss
krweiss@ucdavis.edu

PS - I meant to say boil in about 2-3 gallons water, and after straining
add enough to bring total volume up to 5 gallons of beer.


>From florianb%tekred.cna.tek.com@RELAY.CS.NET Thu May 17 21:26:13 1990
Date: 17 May 90 21:26:13 EDT (Thu)
From: florianb%tekred.cna.tek.com@RELAY.CS.NET
Subject: maerzen recipe
Status: O

The following is my recipe for Maerzen beer.

Maerzen Beer  (recipe for 5 gal)

Two varieties can be made from this semi-mash recipe.  Leaving out the 
ingredients marked with an asterisk (*) will produce a drier, more 
traditional brew.  the Cascade cones produce a fruitier aroma.  
Substitute Hallertauer for a more traditional aroma.  Although I kegged, 
bottling should work just as well.

Ingredients:
	4# light malted barley
	3# light dry malt extract
	1/2 # 40 L crystal malt (*)
	2 oz chocolate malt
	1/2 # toasted malted barley (375 deg oven for 12 minutes)
	1/2 # Munich malt
	2 oz dextrine malt (*)
	2.5 oz Tettnanger 4.2 cones
	1/2 oz Cascade 5.0 cones (!)
	3 tsp gypsum (optional, depending on water)
	Vierka dry lager yeast

	og = 1.056
	sg at racking = 1.020
	sg at kegging = 1.020
	kegging sugar = 3/4 cup corn sugar

Make up yeast starter (room temp) 2 days before brewing.  Grind all 
grains together, dough-in with 5 cups warm water.  Use 3 qts water at 
130 deg to bring up to protein rest temp of 122 deg.  Set for 30 
minutes.  Add 8 pints of boiling water and heat (if needed) to bring 
temp to 154 deg.  Set for at least 30 minutes.  Bring up to 170 deg for 
5 minutes for mash-out.  Sparge with 2 gal water.

Add dry extract, bring to boil.  Boil 15 minutes and add one oz 
Tettnanger.  Boil one hour.  Add 1 oz Tettnanger at 30 minutes.  Add 1/2 
oz Tettnanger and 1/2 oz Cascade at 5 minutes (with Irish moss if 
desired).  Strain and chill.  Rack off of trub.  Pitch yeast.

Ferment at 68 deg for 3 days.  Rack to secondary, and lager for 18 days 
at 42 deg.  On the 18th day, I keg the brew and lager for an additional 
17 days before tapping.

This brew was dark brown-red with a distinct nutty flavor coming from 
the toasted malted barley.  A good head, little chill haze.

Florian


>From 75140.350@compuserve.com Tue Jul 13 00:08:25 1990
Date: 13 Jul 90 00:08:25 EDT
From: Jay H <75140.350@compuserve.com>
Subject: Oatmeal stout, an evolution
Status: O

To Ken Van Wyck regarding not being able to siphon due to hops, try using
hop boiling bags for you rleaf hops.  They allow very good alpha acid
extraction yet eliminate leaf residue, though I suggest extra care when
siphoning hot wort.

Regarding Oatmeal Stout requests there were quite a few so I'm posting
the recipe(s). Please note I am an extract brewer, using grains in osme
beers with a partial stovetop mash approach. When I brew dark beers I
typically crush the grains well with a rolling pin or something
similar then boil them dow for 30 minutes before straining them.
I typically like to get some atringency into stouts and porters in 
this fashion. WHat follows are 4 variations of oatmeal stout each of
which would easily rank in with my best beers.

Also note I have always found steel cut oats (boiled down as per 
other grains) in health food stores so I'd suggest looking there.

Original Oatmeal Stout

6.6 lb John Bull Dark (can sub in M&F)
1.5lb Plain Dark extract
2 0z Bullion in boil
1/2 lb Steel cut oats
7 g Muntona ale yeast
Irish Moss in boil
Water Crystals

O.G. 1.042      F.G. 1.021

Subjective Notes: This one probably had the most noticeable oat flavor
of all the variations on this recipe due to the balance between the
amount of malt and oats. It had a nice deep dark head, opaque color
and smooth creamy flavor. I'd probably use an Irish liquid Ale yeast or
the Whitbread if I did this one again.

Second Try:

6.6 John Bull Plain Light
1.5 Plain Dark powder extract
.75 lb Black Patent
.25 Roasted Barley
.5 Chocolate
.5 lb Steel Cut oats
7g Muntona Ale yeast
Irish Moss, Water Crystals
1/2 oz Fuggle, 1 oz Hallertauer  in boil
1 1/2 oz Cascade in 5 min finish

OG 1.050    FG 1.022

Notes: Addition of grains made the oatmeal flavor less noticeable. Color 
and hop balance were good again Irish Ale could yield some nice results
and I think the steel cut oats need to be bumped to 1lb to bring them
back to the fore.


Not so Oatmeal

3.3 lb M&F Plain Light
4 lb Alexanders Pale Unhopped
.5 lb Black Patent
.25 lb Roasted Barley
.5 Crystal or Cara-pils
.5 lb Steel Cut Oats

1 oz Hallertauer
.75 oz fuggles both leaf both in the boil

1 oz Cascade in finish 5 min)
1/2 oz cascade dry hop after 4 days in primary

14 g Muntona Ale yeast
Irish Moss and water crystals as per package

OG  Forgot to take it         FG 1.018

Notes: this one turned out real fruity, I think this was due to the use of
Alexanders which I like a lot it has a distinct character that I don't
notice in John Bull or M&F malt extracts. Dry hopping also helped, again the
amount of steel cut oats relative to other flavor grains was too low. Also I
found that to get opaqueness ]it was necessary to use at least 1-2 lbs of
dark malt extract (dry or syrup) something I didn't do here hence a brown
ale color and body.

Most recent:

6.6 M&F Light Unhopped extract
3.3 M&F Dark Unhopped
.5 lb cara-pils
.5 lb black patent
.5 lb roasted barley
.75 lb steel cut oats
8 oz malto-dextrin
irish moss and water crystals

2 oz Sticklbrackt (a down under super-hop) added to boil 
    in 1/2 oz batches at 20 min intervals
1 oz bullion also in boil at 1/2 oz intervals in between the Sticklbrackt
1 oz cascade in 5 min finish
1 oz cascade in fermenter dry hop
14 g Whitbread Ale

OG ???    FG 1.030

Notes: Darker and more stringent than other recipes. also more boldly hopped
but still well balanced due to the higher FG on this one. A little more
like Xingu or Mackesons due to the extra residual sweetness in this one
again the increase in steel cut oats was not enough to balance the 
grains and sweetness but this is a great stout.

Overall I'd have to say that number one had the most oat character
I think dropping the chocolate malt and doubling the oats in number 2
 might bring it more in line. The third was in between a brown ale
and say a sam smiths oatmeal stout (which isn't very opaque), and the 
last was a real good stout but the oats didn't stand out that much.

I hope this gives you all a good place to start and a bit of a feel 
for how my variations have affected the flavor. I have always 
counted these among some of my best and easiest to make recipes.
Apologies if this ran rather long but I felt those interested would
gain a lot more from the evolution of the recipe than for me to 
just post the most recent of what I believe is a still evolving
recipe. Good Luck keep me posted!

 - Jay H


>From pms@Corp.Sun.COM Thu Aug 9 09:18:13 1990
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 90 09:18:13 PDT
From: pms@Corp.Sun.COM (Patrick Stirling (Sun HQ Consulting Services))
Subject: Feeling Your Oats (&etc)
Status: O

I thought I'd chip in with my bit about the infection problem mentioned
by Dale Veeneman (and others too I think). I've had exactly these
symptoms - beer's greate for a month or two, then gradually becomes
over-carbonated. I've had some real gushers too, beer all over the
walls! I've made the following changes in my procedure, with good
results (although the jury's still out, it's only been 3 months
or so):
	- use Whitbread yeast only. The homebrew shop (Oakbarrel
	  in Berkeley) get it in buld and put it into little plastic
	  vials;

	- single stage fermentation in a 7 gal carboy. I used to use
	  a two stage procedure (2-3 days in a plastic bin then
	  2-3 weeks in a 5gal carboy);

	- bottle after a week no matter what;

	- no S.G. readings during fermentation! Just at the
	  the beginning and before bottling;

	- soak all equipment (bottles, tubing, carboys etc) for at
	  least 30min in a weak bleach solution

Bottling after a week no matter what took the most faith for me, but so
far I haven't been disappointed (3 or 4 batches). I wouldn't want to
leave the beer on the trub for longer than that anyway. It really has
fermented out too, I'm finally getting ending gravities close to what
I'd like (about "25%" of starting, e.g. 1.060 -> 1.015). I think the
most dangerous times are before pitching (and during the lag) and when
racking. I pour the hot wort through a strainer onto ice, sparge & make
up to volume. From about 2.5 gal of wort this gets the temp down to 75
 - 80. Then rack (with a single hose, no racking tube) into the 7gal
carboy and pitch. I've also tried just swirling the dry yeat in a cup
of wort and dumping it in (i.e.  no starter). The lag is 12-18 hours,
which is longer than I'd like, but since it's in an airlocked glass
carboy I think it's OK.

Now on to the oatmeal. I've just bottled an Oatmeal Stout (using the
above procedure of course!). I just added 1lb of steel cut oats to the
cold water with the rest of the grains, and fished it out with a
strainer when it boiled, before adding the malt extract.  Steel cut
oats are just oats that have been cut up (3-4 pieces per kernel) with a
sharp steel blade.  After botting I had 1/2 a bottle of (flat) beer
left over and it seemed a shame to dump it, so...  yum! A definite oaty
flavour. FYI the recipe was a variation on one kindly posted here by I
forget who (sorry!):

	8lb British Amber Malt Extract (syrup)
	0.5lb Black Patent	)
	0.5lb Chocolate		) cracked with a rolling pin, added to cold
	0.5lb Roasted Barley	) water, removed at boil
	1lb Steel Cut Oats
	2oz Eroica (boiled full 60min)
	1oz Fuggles (boiled 1min, 10min steep)
	Whitbread dry yeast
	0.5cup corn sugar to prime (I don't like gassy beer!)

It's come out nice and black and has a full, almost creamy look. I
suspect that the barley will give it a brown head. Unfortunatley I have
to wait another week to drink it! 

One final thing, a word of warning. Don't use cork lined bottle caps!
They dry out and lose their seal. I thought I'd tossed all of mine, but
a couple sneaked onto bottles in my last brew (a delicious raspberry
ale) and ruined them.

patrick


>From bates%palmen.Colorado.EDU@hplb.hpl.hp.com Mon Oct 15 09:17:13 1990
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 90 09:17:13 MDT
From: bates%palmen.Colorado.EDU@hplb.hpl.hp.com (John Bates)
Subject: Xmas Beer Recipe
Status: O

Following up on my entry in Digest #517, Phil sez that his speciality beer
recipe is still to be entered in competition and he does not want the 
recipe posted til after (i.e., after about Nov 15).  He sez that it only
needs 3-4 weeks, so it should be in fine shape by Xmas if I post it about then.

I just tried one of my ginger beers brewed following CP's recipe in TCJHB.
Although only in the bottle a week, it was really tasty.  It will make a
nice spicy beer by Xmas.  Here's the recipe,

	3.3 lbs Northwestern light ME
	2 lbs DME
	2 lbs wildflower honey
	2 oz Hertsburger (Spelling?) boiling
	1/2 oz Goldings finishing
	2 oz fresh grated ginger boiling
	1 oz fresh grated ginger finishing
	2 paks M + F ale yeast started

Start yeast in about 90F watered down wort.  Boil malt extract, honey, hops,
and ginger about 1 hr.  Strain, then add finishing hops and ginger.  Cool
rapidly in tub, pitch yeast already started.  SG=49, FG=14 after 2 weeks.
Prime and bottle.  This is a quite light beer with a nice ginger aroma and
flavor.

Regards, John Bates


>From imagesys!shannon@uu.psi.com Wed Oct 17 15:23:26 1990
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 90 15:23:26 EDT
From: imagesys!shannon@uu.psi.com (Shannon Posniewski)
Subject: Apple beer
Status: O

      Here is an example of a apple beer that we brewed in March.  It is
based on the Cherries in the Snow recipe in Papazian's book.  The reason we 
chose this particular recipe as a base is that we were actually planning to 
make it with cherries.  Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how one 
looks at it) it was not possible to get cherries, or raspberries, or 
any-other-berries at the time.  We settled for apples.  They were 
inexpensive (cheap), we liked them, and readily available.

      The recipe is below, including the comments we've made since the time 
it was brewed.  It is a direct copy of the log we keep, minus the 
wort-stains.  But first, some comments on the apples we used.  We used 9lbs. 
of granny smith and 3lbs. of macintosh apples.  We chose granny smiths 
because we wanted to have an "appley" flavor.  What many people define as 
"appley" is mainly caused by the sugar found most often in apples:  fructose.  
We figured that most of the fructose would be snarfed up by the yeasties, so 
we wanted an apple that had more than a mere fructose taste.  Granny smith 
apples fit the bill.  (And besides, we like them.)

        Here's the recipe:

        Apples in the snow

        1.5 gal cold water        
        6.6 lbs John Bull Malt Extract Light  (any brand should do)
        1   lb  corn sugar
        2   oz  Hallertauer Hops (boiling)
         .5 oz  Hallertauer Hops (finishing)
        12  lbs apples (9lbs Granny Smith, 3lbs. Macintosh)
        3.5 gal cold water with water crystals
        2   pkg Ale yeast (we used Edme)
        .75 cup corn sugar (for priming)

      Cut up apples into 8-10 slices each (discard cores).  Put 1.5 gal water,
and boiling hops in pot.  Bring to a boil.  Add extract and 1lb corn sugar.
Boil 40 minutes.  Add finishing hops and apples.  Let sit and steep for 15 
minutes.
      Take the entire wort and pour into a plastic fermenter that has water 
and water crystals in it.  Push apples to one side, pitch yeast and stir.
(This may sound scary to those of you who are paranoid about infections, but
 don't panic.  The steeping (in boiling wort) should kill any nasties.  If
 you are _really_ worried, simmer it and keep it at a boil. Once you put it 
 in the fermenter, the cap is on and nothing can get in...)

      We let it ferment for 3 weeks.   Sparged into a handy plastic bucket,
added .75c corn sugar, strred, and bottled.  At this point it tasted "sweet,
kinda appley (not surprising).  Hops yield an interesting secondary taste.
Might taste better a little cooler than 75oF." (and flat, BTW)

      We let carbonate for a little under a month.  Here's a quote: "Not
very sweet;  next time less hops.  The carbonation yeasties over-carbonated
at this point.  The beer was kept at 60oF for the whole time."

Summary:          Boil:  40m           Original.S.G.  1.050
          Finish/Steep:  15m           Finished.S.G.  1.015

          primary fermentation: 3 weeks.
          bottle fermentation:  4 weeks.

Some comments:
       Perhaps the use of Saaz (or other, more delicate) hops, or less hops 
at the boiling stage would reduce the hop flavor a bit.  I am a hop-head, 
and it was _still_ too hoppy for this beer.
       Over-carbonation was probably caused by the length of time the beer
was left at a warm temperature.  After 3 weeks, I suggest cooling it down.
This will slow (possibly) stop the carbonation and keep the beer sweeter.
       I have a couple bottles (which I necessarily hid) around now.  I 
had one last night.  It was "immaculate" (as Dan would say).  No over-carb,
lightly sweet, with the taste tilted towards the hops more than the apple.

       In any case, enjoy the beer!  It is _really_ good.  A pleasant 
surprise from what amounted to an experiement.

       Slainte!
       Shannon    (With help from Dan Wiesen and Pete Oehler)

******************************************************************************
* Shannon Posniewski		 * The beer erupts in a tower of foam!       *
* Image Systems Technology, Inc. * You die.                                  *
* shannon@imagesys.com		 * RIP Warthog, killed by a tower of foam.   *
******************************************************************************


>From fredc@pro-humanist.cts.com Tue Oct 30 01:32:10 1990
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 90 01:32:10 PST
From: fredc@pro-humanist.cts.com (Fred Condo, sysop)
Subject: Alexander's
Status: O

In HBD 527, "Danny-Boy" (dbreiden@mentor.cc.purdue.edu) writes about an
unsatisfactory result from a recipe whose fermentable content was about 70%
Alexander's. In particular, the results were undercarbonation, high
fruitiness, and maybe cideriness.

My experience with Alexander's has been very good. Using it as a base malt,
I've made English Mild, Pale Ale, and Porter that have all been very well
received by connoisseurs and plain folk alike. The Porter in particular was
acclaimed as excellent by all at my local homebrew club recently.

I would guess that the fruity character is a result of the type of yeast used
(not mentioned) and possibly high fermentation temperature. Also, it's in the
nature of Pale Ale to have much more fruitiness than a lager. Also, I've
noticed that M&F Amber Malt Extract (which dbreiden used in addition to
Alexander's) imparts a lot of fruitiness. I can't explain the failure to
carbonate.

It would be a shame to abandon Alexander's, as it's of excellent quality and
quite inexpensive, especially in bulk. For your next Pale Ale try this:

one-half pound crushed crystal malt, steeped and twice sparged
5 to 6 lbs. Alexander's pale malt extract
10 oz dextrose (corn sugar) (optional)
1.25 oz. Cascade hops (pellets) for 60 mins.
0.25 oz. Cascade hops (pellets) at end of boil or as dry hop
Munton & Fison dry beer yeast.
Water to make 5 gallons (I do full-wort boil)

Prime with half a cup corn sugar.
OG: 1.058, FG: 1.022, 4.7% alcohol v/v.

Now, being a Pale Ale, a British Bitter, really, this shouldn't be highly
carbonated. It should have about 1 vol. of carbon dioxide, and certainly no
more than 1.5 volumes. Too much carbonation eliminates the taste and
bitterness of the hops.

My notes say that this is a well-balanced brew with good maltiness and
bitterness. It was good when fresh, albeit cloudy, but this is okay in a Pale
Ale. After 2 months of refrigeration, it is crystal clear and still
delicious. And there's only one bottle left... ;-<

By the way, M&F beer yeast is very aggressive. Fermentation can be completely
done in 24-72 hours. I've even had it finish overnight, but don't bottle too
early if you have any doubts. After bottling, let it carbonate a week or two,
then pop it into the fridge. Drink it at 50 deg. F. I hope you'll like it as
much as I do!

===
Fred Condo. Pro-Humanist BBS: 818/339-4704, 300/1200/2400 bps
Internet: fredc@pro-humanist.cts.com  Bitnet: condof@clargrad
UUCP: crash!pro-humanist!fredc [add '@nosc.mil' for ARPA]
matter: PO Box 2843, Covina, CA 91722  America Online: FredJC


>From R_GELINA%UNHH.BITNET@MITVMA.MIT.EDU Tue Oct 30 10:04:09 1990
Date:     Tue, 30 Oct 90 10:04 EST
From: <R_GELINA%UNHH.BITNET@MITVMA.MIT.EDU> (Russ Gelinas)
Subject:  yeast culture, cider recipe
Status: O

I tried to culture some Sierra Nevada yeast (what a great beer!) using a
modified version of the method in TCJOHB, but it didn't catch.  Is the yeast
possibly too far gone to start up again? I have no idea how old the beer is
or how it has been handled.  I've got two more bottles of SN Pale Ale, and
I'd really like to get some yeast from them, so any info sent my way would
be appreciated.

Now my cider story: 3 gallons of apple cider, 1.5 lbs of brown sugar, and 1
package of Red Star champagne yeast. OG:1.066, FG: 0.994! We're talking dry.
Maybe too dry, so I thought I'd open the bottles and add some sugar (.5 tsp)
for a little sweetness and some sparkle. Wrong! Almost as soon as the sugar
went in, the cider bubbled over *alot*. So I guess it *will* be sparkling,
but still very dry.  Oh well, not too bad for a first try.

Russ (of NH)


>From blackman@hpihouz.cup.hp.com Tue Oct 30 8:20:16 1990
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 90 8:20:16 PST
From: Jeffrey R Blackman <blackman@hpihouz.cup.hp.com>
Subject: beer evangelism ...
Status: O

In HBD 527, Ivan writes,

< "I am trying both to impress and to "convert" someone who is 
< currently of the "Old Style / Schaefer (however it's spelled)" persuasion.
< I'm thus looking for a good ale for "conversion purposes".

Last July, I gathered some friends together to brew a simple yet tasty batch
of homebrew.  I chose "Righteous Real Ale" from TCJoHB because it was *SIMPLE*
and very *TASTY*.  In this group (totaling 6) I was the only one who had 
previously brewed; simplicity may have helped "convert" if you will.  Part of
the fun of doing this was the lobster barbeque we had at the same time!

Charlie Papazian writes about Rigteous Real Ale:

"The taste of Righteous Real Ale is excellent and authentic within
14 days of brewing.  It is brewed in a style of "ordinary bitter"
served in parts of London and inhop country to the south.  It is
a distinctly hopped ale with a beautiful hop bouquet.  Bear in mind
that authentic bitter may not be as carbonated as you are used to.
If more carbonation is desired, add 1/4 cup additional corn sugar
at bottling time."

		6 Cooks Ale
by Eilene, Gwen, Jeff, Karl, Mike & Paul

INGREDIENTS:
(for 10 gallons)
     10lbs English Pale malt extract (DME)
     4 oz Cascade hop pellets (boiling)
     2 oz Hallertauer hop pellets (finishing)
     4 tsp. gypsum
     2 pkg EDME Ale yeast (1 pkg. per 5 gallon)
     1 - 1 1/2 cup corn sugar (bottling)

Original Specific Gravity (O.G.): 1.030    (July 22, 1990)
Final Specific Gravity (S.G.): 1.007     (August 14, 1990)

Brought 3 gallons of water (purified, but not bottled drinking
water) to a boil.  Added four (4) teaspoons gypsum, four (4) oz
Cascade hop pellets and ten (10) lbs DME.  brought to rolling boil
(used medium high to high temperature on electric range).  Boiled
on medium high for about 45 minutes.  Added two (2) oz Hallertauer
hop pellets to boil for about one (1) minute.  Poured wort through
nylon straining bag into 55 gallon trash container with additional
7 gallons water.  Allowed wort to cool (about 1.5 hours) and
syphoned into 5 gallon carboys.  (Note: O.G. was taken on sample
which was allowed to cool)  Let cool overnight and add yeast.  (A
wort chiller would be a nice addition).

I tend to add probably more hops than most of the "Old Style / Schaefer 
persuasion" might prefer.  If you think its too much, cut back. TCJoHB
suggests something more on the order of 1.5 oz bittering and .5 oz 
aromatics.  Without a scale, its easier to dump in the whole 2oz package!

Hope your Evangelism is sucsessful!

 -Jeff Blackman


>From bradley@dehn.math.nwu.edu Tue Oct 30 12:06:41 1990
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 90 12:06:41 CST
From: bradley@dehn.math.nwu.edu (R. Bradley)
Subject: Bass Ale recipe
Status: O

In a recent HBD (#526?) someone asked for a Bass recipe.  Rick Goldberg
obliged with an extract recipe.  I'll enter the fray with a grain recipe.

6 or 7 # pale malt (preferably 2-row, 6 if UK, 7 if US)
     1 # crystal malt
     1 # demarara or dark brown sugar
    1 oz northern brewer hops (1 hour)
    1 oz fuggle hops (30 min)
  1/2 oz fuggle hops (finish; try adding 1/4 oz for 10 min of boiling,
			      then add the rest, turn off the heat,
			      steep for 15 min)

Notes: (a) I'm a hophead *:-)  (b) "Sugar in my all-grain beer?" you
scream in outrage.  A careful tasting of Bass reveals brwon sugar/
molasses character in the finish.  Not as strong as Newkie Brown,
of course, but present.  British malt, in particular, can easily
stand up to a bit of sugar, both in flavour and in gravity.

(P.S.  In searching for Rick's posting with my text editor, I
wasn't certain whether to capitalise Bass, so I used the last
three letters only.  I found: galss, molassses, assessing,
assumption x 2, then finally Bass.)

Happy sparging,

Rob  (bradley@math.nwu.edu)


>From mason@habs11.enet.dec.com Thu Nov 1 08:53:38 1990
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 90 08:53:38 PST
From: Gary Mason  01-Nov-1990 1151 <mason@habs11.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Carp Ale recipe (as I did it)...
Status: O

I have had several requests for this, so here it is!

The recipe is based upon Russ Schehrer's Carp ale from the 1986 Zymurgy 
special issue.

3.0 # M&F Light DME
3.0 # M&F Amber DME
1.0 # Crystal malt
2.6 oz Fuggles @ 4.7% = 12.22 AAU
1.0 oz Kent Goldings @ 5.9% = 5.9 AAU
Pinch of Irish Moss
1 pkt Brewer's Choice #1098 (British Ale - Jun 90)

Started the yeast in 1 qt of sterile starter medium (1 C M&F Amber DME in 1 qt
water).  That was about 28 hrs after breaking the inner seal, and about 10 hrs
before beginning the initial boil.  Less than 12 hours to full kraeusen cover 
on the starter (the starter container was a 1 gal cider jar fitted with a <" 
ID blowoff tube). 

Bring 2< gal water to boil with crystal (crushed with a rolling pin) in a bag. 
Remove crystal when the boil starts (about 60').  Fill to 6< gal, add DME, and
bring to a boil.  After boiling 10 min, add Fuggles.  At 55 min, add a pinch 
of Irish Moss.  At 58 min add Kent Goldings.  Cool with immersion chiller to 
800 (about 18' - only racked about 4= gal into the primary).  Pitch
the yeast.

Ferment at about 700 for a week.  Rack to the secondary (about 4< gal - found 
that the fermentation was already complete). Rack to the keg (5 days later)
with 1= pt of sterile starter.

Hops might be a little light; mouth feel could be greater; the brew is
cloudy.
Slightly strange nose, but not objectionable.  FG 1.016.

Cheers...Gary

P.S. I have lost the mail from one requester, so if you don't get this by
     E-mail, you know who you are 8')


>From winter%cirrusl@oliveb.ATC.olivetti.com Thu Nov 1 09:35:28 1990
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 90 09:35:28 PST
From: winter%cirrusl@oliveb.ATC.olivetti.com (Keith Winter)
Subject: culturing yeast
Status: O

Someone asked (I forgot to save the name :-( ):

>I tried to culture some Sierra Nevada yeast (what a great beer!) using a
>modified version of the method in TCJOHB, but it didn't catch.  Is the yeast
>possibly too far gone to start up again? I have no idea how old the beer is
>or how it has been handled.  I've got two more bottles of SN Pale Ale, and
>I'd really like to get some yeast from them, so any info sent my way would
>be appreciated.

After having problems with over-carbonation on a couple of batches, I asked
the HBD in general for help, especially regarding reculturing.  I received
some really good (and detailed) advice on how to do this, notably from Pete
Soper, Rick Zucker and David Baer.  I've now used the procedure four times
without one single problem.  I'll pass along my methods and experiences.

I always buy un-refridgerated SN Pale Ale.  I don't know if it makes any
difference but it's possible the yeast is more viable if it hasn't been 
cooled.

At Pete Soper's advice (and I think he's 100% correct), I use much more
careful techniques to assure sanitation.  This process is beginning with 
a very small yeast population and they won't be able to "get the upper
hand" on other nasty things that may be hanging around.  I use stronger 
bleach solutions and soak all equipment longer.  I wipe down all counter 
tops with this solution as well.  Also, I'm careful not to breath near the 
open culturing bottles.  I use brown bottles to minimize the effects of 
light on the growing yeast culture.

This is a two step process:

First, I boil two tablespoons of dried malt extract in about one cup of
water for about 15 minutes, effectively making a light wort.  I include
one-half teaspoon yeast nutrient and three or four hops pellets.  This I
cool to pitching temp (77 degrees F). While cooling and once the temperature
has fallen to under 120 degrees F, I aerate it by stirring.  I do this
because boiling the wort has removed most of the O2.  Waiting until it's
cooler than 120 helps prevent oxidation, I think.  The cooled wort is then
poured into a sterilized 12 oz long neck, straining out the hops.  I
carefully pour all but the bottom half-inch of two or three bottles of SN
Pale Ale into glasses, being extremely careful to not disturb the yeast on
the bottom.  I then flame the lips of the SN bottles with a butane cigarette
lighter (to kill off any mold, etc), vigorously stir up the dregs to get the
yeast off the bottom, pour the contents into the wort then affix a
fermentation lock.  I usually just put the bottle at the back of the counter
top somewhere out of the light.  I've found that I get a much quicker start
from three bottles.  I see obvious activity within 12 hours and have a
healthy kraussen in one day.  I let this work until I see the kraussen begin
to fall (usually about three days) and then proceed to the next step.

I now make a larger wort, using a half cup of dried malt extract and about
one and one-half cups water, adding one tsp yeast nutrient and six or seven
hops pellets.  Once the wort has boiled and cooled (again aerating the wort 
to introduce O2), I strain it into a sterilized 22 oz bottle.  I flame the 
lip of the 12 oz bottle of yeast starter from step one, swirl it around to mix 
it up and then pour it into the new, larger wort and affix a fermentation lock.
This starter will be ready in about two or three days.  I always wait for the 
kraussen to fall before I use it and just pitch it as I would any other yeast
starter after stirring it up to get the yeast off the bottom.

I've had excellent results with this method.  The 5 gallons of wort shows 
activity within a few hours and very active bubbling within 24 hours.  One 
thing I've noted is that this yeast is never as active as dried yeasts, such 
as Edme or Red Star.  The fastest I have seen the lock bubble is about once 
per second.  It takes about two weeks for the fermentation to complete, 
sometimes a little longer.  I have not had a case of over-carbonation since 
switching to this way of obtaining yeast.

	Keith Winter (winter@cirrusl)


>From BAUGHMANKR@CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Wed Nov 7 16:48:09 1990
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 90 16:48 EST
From: BAUGHMANKR@CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU
Subject: Fleming's Christmas Ale Recipe
Status: O


Merry Christmas to All:

Following is Phil Fleming's recipe for Christmas Ale that I mentioned a 
couple of weeks ago.  The recipe is in the latest special issue of Zymurgy 
so I assume that it is now public domain.

Ingredients for 5 gallons

3 1/2 pounds Munton and Fison Stout Kit
3 1/2 pounds Munton and Fison amber dry malt extract 
3     pounds Munton and Fison amber dry malt extract }  ?? Typo ??
1/2   ounce Hallertauer hops (60 minutes)
1/2   ounce Hallertauer hops (5 minutes)
3/4   pound honey
5     3-inch cinnamon sticks
2     teaspoons allspice
1     teaspoon cloves
6     ounces ginger root
6     rinds from medium size oranges
      Wyeast No. 1007 German ale liquid yeast
7     ounces corn sugar for priming

*O.G.:  1.069
*T.G.:  1.030
*Primary fermentation: 14 days @ 61 degrees F.
*Age when judged: six months

BREWER'S SPECIFICS
     Simmer spices and honey (45 minutes). Boil malt and hops (50 minutes).
Add finishing hops and boil (5 minutes). Cool, strain and pitch yeast.

MY COMMENTS:
The second call for 3 pounds of M & F amber dry malt extract is probably a
typo in the magazine.  7 pounds of extract and 3/4 pound of honey would 
give you an O.G. of around 1.069.  10 pounds of extract would give you an
O.G. much higher than that.

Though he doesn't say so, it sounds like Phil did not brew the honey and 
spices together with the extract but mixed them together in the fermenter.

This was a great beer in Oakland.  I'm brewing up my batch this week-end!

Cheers!

Kinney Baughman
BAUGHMANKR@APPSTATE


>From pbmoss!malodah@PacBell.COM Mon Nov 12 9:14:06 1990
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 90 9:14:06 PST
From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah@PacBell.COM>
Subject: Nothing Exceeds Like Excess
Status: O

At the beginning of last month, I reported in these pages that I was
planning to use Wyeast "Vintner's Choice" Champagne yeast for a
barleywine, that it appeared to be packaged in a grape must, and
that I'd report on the results.  I bottled it yesterday,
prematurely, and may well be looking at the most expensive failure
of my brewing career.  Or then again, maybe not.

The recipe was a product of my personal credo ("anything worth doing
is worth doing to excess"):

For a 5 gallon batch -

12 lbs 2-row pale malt
2 lbs Munich malt
2 lbs crystal malt
4 lbs Edme light malt extract
4 lbs Alexander's light malt extract
4 oz dark molasses
1/4 cup corn sugar (priming)

Bittering hops:		0.5 oz Northern Brewer @ 8%, 2 oz same @ 6.9%
Flavor hops:		1.5 oz Kent Goldings @ 5.2%
Finish hops:		0.5 oz Hallertauer pellets @ 2.8%, 
			0.5 oz Cascade @ 5.2%

Mash in:  18 qts well water @ 140F, pH 5.3 (0.5 tsp gypsum)
Protein rest:  none
Starch conversion:  2 hrs @ 150-141F
Mash out:  5 min @ 168F
Sparge:  5 gal @ 168F, pH 5.7 (0.5 tsp gypsum)
Boil:  2.5 hours
Adds:	Extracts, molasses, & bittering hops @ 90 min
	Flavor hops @ 120 min
	Finish hops @ 140 min

As you can see, if I'd omitted the extracts and cut the pale malt
back to 10 lbs, I'd have the makings of a pretty fair ESB, but
noooo ...

I won't bore you with the trials of making this thing.  It was not
an easy batch.  Of more interest is the fact that the original
gravity was a whopping 1.126!!!  I pitched the yeast (which I'd
cultured through two successive DME-based starters), and the ensuing
fermentation was, well, volcanic.  The yeasties looked around,
chorused "All this, for ME??", and fell to.  I think I heard a cheer.
Fully 1.5 of the 5 gallons in the carboy departed hastily through
the blowoff tube.  When it slowed to a gradual stop and showed no
activity at all for more than a week, I gave up and bottled.
In retrospect, I should have taken a sample and measured the gravity,
then pitched the Red Star Pasteur Champagne yeast I keep in the
freezer for emergencies.  That stuff will eat anything in sight!
The Wyeast had attenuated only down to 1.091, still heavier than most
of my starting gravities.  The flavor is impossibly "syrupy", but with
no (other) obvious flaws.  I put it in the cellar, and I think I'll
just sort of forget about it for a few months.

It has been a learning experience, though!  I learned:

1.  Wyeast Champagne yeast is not as attenuative as Red Star;
2.  A batch this size strains the capacities of my equipment, even
	the 33 qt kettle;
3.  Enough is enough, and 1.126 is too much;
4.  When in doubt, risk infection and sample.

Maybe I can pour it over ice cream ...

= Martin A. Lodahl    Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff =
= malodah@pbmoss.Pacbell.COM       Sacramento, CA       916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!  8-)   =


>From watson@pioneer.arc.nasa.gov Tue Nov 20 23:16:40 1990
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 90 23:16:40 PST
From: John S. Watson - FSC <watson@pioneer.arc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Report on No. 17
Status: O

Last Oct 1, in the Homebrew digest #508, 
I asked if anyone had any experience in brewing
with a cheap malt-rice product, which  I found readily available 
in local oriental markets. 

I wanted to see if Maltose was useful in homebrewing,
since one seemed to have used it, I decide to try it myself.

The resulting was a very light "American style" beer.
It was better tasting than any A.S. beer I'd pick up at the local market,
but maybe not quite as good as an A.S. beer I'd get at the local microbrewery.

Below are the notes taken form my brewing log book.

Batch #17  

10/21/90

Cooking the Wort.

  3.25# Plain Light Malt Extract ($5.93) 
  2.2#  Maltose  (1000 grams, $1.98) 
  0.75oz Cascade Hops (Boil, pellets, $0.66)
  0.75oz Cascade Hops (Finish, pellets, last 2 minutes, $0.66)
  Yeast - Cultured from 2 bottles of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale
        Started 2 days earlier
  5 gallons tap water.  
    (2.5 gallons in wort and 2.5 gallons boiled and cooled earlier.)

  S.P = 1.033 @ 113 degrees F
        1.038 @  76 degrees F

  Placed in 2.5 gallons of wort into 7 gallon carboy 
  with 2.5 gallons pre-cooled water.

10/22/90
 
  Next day (Monday) 12:00 noon,
  Cultured yeast does not seem to start, So added
  
1 package (0.25oz) Vierrka German Lager Yeast ($0.95)
  
  Because of cooling, it looks like some sanatized water 
  was sucked in from the spill bottle.  Can't tell how much.
  (At this point I was a somewhat discouraged, I figured the
  batch was ruined. But I relaxed, since I'd only be out 
  about $10 if it was. )
  
     
10/28/90

Secondary Fermenter.

  Slow fermentation over the week.  Still fermenting
  at time of secondary, but slowly - Some "head" of foam still
  on top of primary.

  S.G.= 1.007 @ 67 degrees F

11/4/90

Bottling.
 
  added 3/4 cups corn sugar

  S.P = 1.006 @ 62 degrees F
  
  approx. 4.5% alc. by volume

  tastes great. (less filling! :-).

  49 12oz bottles (588oz) 
  Capped with Green #17 sticker

  Total cost for 49 bottles was approx $11.00 US dollars.
  Which is about 22 cents per beer.  No taxes :-)


11/11/90

  Tried a few bottles.  Not enough carbonation yet.
  Still tastes great.  

  Color similar to any American Pilsner, like Budwiser.
  Tastes much better, very mellow,  no "skunkiness".

11/17/90

  Still not carbonated enough, although more than 
  last week.  Hopefully another week.



New techniques used this time:

* Attempted to culture the yeast from bottle.  
  Many reasons why this might not have worked.  
  Most likely that 2 days was not enough to culture yeast,
  and wort might have been to hot.
  
* Used all tap water.  2.5 gallons early boiled Sunday morning and
  placed in the freezer to cool.  (Should have done it the evening
  before. Wasn't cool enough.) (Previously I've always bought 3 gallons
  of bottled water and let it cool in the freezer while the rest 
  of the wort was boiling. The near freezing water and the boiled wort
  would combine at about 80 degrees)

* Washed bottles in dish washer.  Saved lots of time, and work. 

* Used approx.  2 pounds of "Maltose", a rice-malt product 
  which cost 99 cents for 17.5 oz (500 grams).
  Papazain book says American Pilsners are from 25 to 40 percent
  of this.   No. 17 is about 40%.


The goal was to make a 5 gallon batch of beer,
while only spending 10 dollars.  I'm not sure what drives
me to such frugalness.  I can easly afford the extra 2 dollars or so
it would cost me to use 100% malt extract.  (My last brew of Russian
Imperial Stout cost at lest $26.)

Also, having grown up with American beer, 
sometimes I would rather have it with certain foods, such as pizza. 

And maybe I did it just so I could say "I did it".

John S. Watson, Civil Servant from Hell    ARPA: watson@ames.arc.nasa.gov 
                                           UUCP: ...!ames!watson
Homebrew Naked!


>From mcnally@wsl.dec.com Wed Dec 19 09:22:28 1990
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 90 09:22:28 PST
From: mcnally@wsl.dec.com
Subject: Extract rate
Status: O


Well, I tried some of the beer that "suffered" from an extract rate of 
.026.  It's extremely nice; in fact, here's the recipe (my own):

    6 lbs. 2-row Klages
    3 lbs. wheat malt
    1 lb. dextrin malt ("Cara-pils", as Miller calls it)
    7 AAU Tettnanger
    3 AAU Kent Goldings
    1.5 ozs Saaz (added at end of boil)
    Chimay yeast (of course)
    2/3 cup priming sugar

    Mash water: 14 quarts
    Mash-in 135 dF
    Mash pH: 5.4 (tough to get that low...)
    Protein rest: 30 min
    Starch conversion: 2 hrs at 145-152 dF
    Mash-out: 5 min,. at 168 dF
    Sparge water: 5 gal., 168 dF, pH 5.7
    
    Boil about 90 min. (you get a lot more thanm 5 gallons...)
    Hops: Tettnanger & Goldings, 1 hour before end of boil
          Saaz at end of boil

    Original gravity: 1.053
    Terminal gravity: 1.004

The ferment went about a week and a half.  I added 3 tbsp. Polyclar and
3 tbsp. bentonite slurry (as per Miller) and let it sit in the
secondary for 2 weeks.  It was a little cloudy at bottling, but is
stunningly clear now.  The Chimay yeast has tucked itself very nicely
into the beer; I had thought it would be quite pronounced.

I'll be making another made-up recipe with wheat soon, and this time
I'll use 6-row.  I'll keep you posted...

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike McNally                                           mcnally@wsl.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corporation
Western Software Lab


>From enders@plains.NoDak.edu Mon Jan 14 91 21:42 1991
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 21:42:51 -0600
From: Todd Enders - WD0BCI  <enders@plains.NoDak.edu>
Subject: Recipe: Scotch Ale
Status: O

     This is the first try at formulating my own recipe.  It turned out
quite nice, malty with just a touch of hops.  If you want a change from highly
hopped brews, but still want something substantial, you might want to try
this.  But be forewarned, you may not be able to drink just one! :-)

     My Own Scotch Ale (5 US gal.)

6# Klages 2-row Malt
1# Munich Malt     (10L)
1# Dextrine (Cara-pils) malt
8oz. Crystal Malt   (80L)
4oz. Black Patent Malt
1C Dark Molasses
.75oz. 6.2% alpha East Kent Goldings
Wyeast #1028 London Ale yeast
2/3C Corn sugar (priming)

Mash in: 2 gal. water @ 138F
Mash pH: 5.2 (adjust with Calcium Carbonate)
Protein rest: 30 mins @ 131F
Conversion rest: 30 mins @ 158F
Mash out: 5 mins @ 168F

Sparge: 5 gal. water @ 165F

Boil: 90 mins
Hops: 1 addition, 30 mins from end of boil

OG: 1.055
FG: 1.015

     Pitched 12/24/90.  Racked to secondary: 12/26/90.  Bottled 12/31/90.

     This has to be one of the smoothest batches I ever brewed.  It is really 
smooth even after only 2 weeks in the bottle.  The rather intense malt flavor 
and low hopping rate make this a refreshing change of pace from my steady
production of IPA's.

===============================================================================

Todd Enders - WD0BCI                  ARPA: enders@plains.nodak.edu
Computer Center                       UUCP: ...!uunet!plains!enders
Minot State University                  or: ...!hplabs!hp-lsd!plains!enders
Minot, ND  58701                     Bitnet: enders@plains

     "The present would be full of all possible futures,
      if the past had not already projected a pattern upon it" - Andre' Gide

===============================================================================


>From nt@Eng.Sun.COM Tue Jan 15 Tue, 15 Jan 1991
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 91 09:46:17 PST
From: nt@Eng.Sun.COM (Nick Thomas)
Subject: Extract Barleywine recipie
Status: O

	I heard a call for extract-based barleywine.  I made a
batch of this about a year ago.  It was so good that I've got
two batches of it running in tandem.  I'm really pleased with
it, it's got a nice balanced flavor.

Boil for 1 hour:

	12 lb Fermentatin Settlement bulk light malt extract
	.5 lb honey 
	1 lb British Dry light malt extract
	1.5 lb corn sugar
	2 oz Chinook hops (13.2% alpha)
	2 oz Cascade hops (5.5% alpha)

In last 30 minutes add 2 t Irish moss

Boil for another 30 minutes:

	2 oz fuggles
	2 t sparkeloid
	
Pitch *Champagne* yeast when cool.

	I bottled after 7 months and it was *wonderful.*

 -nick


>From CONDOF%CLARGRAD.BITNET@CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU Tue Jan 15 15:47 1991
Date:     Tue, 15 Jan 91 15:47 PST
From: <CONDOF%CLARGRAD.BITNET@CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject:  Barleywine recipes
Status: O

Max Newman writes:
>I am looking for extract based barley wine ale recipes. Does
>anyone out there have a recipe that they would be willing to
>share? maxn@intermec.com

Byron Burch's recipe from "Brewing Quality Beers":
For 5 gals.:
8 # light DME
3 # crystal malt
1.5 # Munich malt
1.5 oz. chocolate malt
8 oz. 100% dextrin powder
2 oz. Eroica (boiling hops) (22 AAU)
3 oz. Cascade (dry hop)

Charlie Papazian's recipe (from TCJOHB tables):
for 5 gals.:
8 to 10 # light DME
1 # crystal malt
3 to 4 oz. Fuggles (boiling hops) (15 to 20 AAU)
0.5 oz. Fuggles (dry hop)

My current attempt:
For *>>> 2 <<<* gallons:
5 # Alexander's pale malt extract syrup (=0.5 gal. of the stuff)
1 # crystal malt, steeped and twice sparged
11 AAU Nugget hops (boiling)
0.5 oz. Cluster (finishing hops)
0.5 oz. Cluster (dry hop)
===
Fred Condo. Pro-Humanist BBS: 818/339-4704, 300/1200/2400 bps
Internet: fredc@pro-humanist.cts.com  Bitnet: condof@clargrad
UUCP: crash!pro-humanist!fredc [add '@nosc.mil' for ARPA]
matter: PO Box 2843, Covina, CA 91722  America Online: FredJC


>From wa%cadillac.cad.mcc.com@MCC.COM Wed Jan 16 16:15:53 1990
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 91 16:15:53 CST
From: wa%cadillac.cad.mcc.com@MCC.COM (Wayne Allen)
Subject: Marigold Ale (extract-based barley wine recipe)
  
Status: O

Max Newman writes:    
>I am looking for extract based barley wine ale recipes. Does
>anyone out there have a recipe that they would be willing to
>share? maxn@intermec.com

Here's mine, the best beer I've ever brewed (and getting better by the year!)

Marigold Ale:
 10 lbs Munton&Fisson Light un-hopped extract
 2 lbs marigold honey
 4 Oz. Fuggle leaf boil
 1 Oz. Cascade pellets finish
 Munton&Fisson Ale yeast
 champagne yeast (I used red-star 8-)

(It may not seem like enough hops at first glance, but it is...)
Pitch ale yeast first, then after activity has subsided, pitch
champagne yeast. Rack after clearing and let stand a LONG TIME in
secondary - this will continue developing a long time, so you don't
want to bottle too early and get over-carbonated. After bottling, wait
A LONG TIME (> year).

Watch out, you can get addicted to barley wine!

wa


>From pms@sfsun.West.Sun.COM Fri Jan 25 91 09:34 1990
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 91 09:34:17 PST
From: pms@sfsun.West.Sun.COM (Patrick Stirling)
Subject: Oatmeal Stout Recipe (Extract)
Status: O

Mike Tavis asked for an Oatmeal Stout Recipe. Here's one I used recently,
based on another that was also posted in this forum:

	8lb British Amber Malt Extract
	0.5lb Plack Patent grain (cracked)
	0.5lb roasted barley (cracked)
	0.5lb Chocolate Malt grain (cracked)
	1lb Steel Cut Oats
	2oz Eroica (boil)
	1oz Fuggles (finishing)
	Whitbread ale yeast

Procedure: Crack all grains (except the oats), add to about 2 gal cold water
(incl oats), bring to a boil (my table top range takes almost an hour to do
this). Remove the grains with a strainer when boiling and add the malt
extract and boiling hops. Boil for an hour. Add the finishing hops and
continue boil for a minute or two. Turn off heat and let steep for 15min.
Put about 4-6" of ice into a plastic bin and strain the wort into it.
Sparge. Bring up to volume (5.25 gal) with cold water and mix well. I find
that the temp by now is down enough to pitch (i.e. <80F). Rack into 6gal
glass carboy and pitch the yeast (I just throw in the dry stuff). Use a blow
off tube for the first couple of days! I.e. A plastic tube from the carboy
into a jar of water. Bottle when the fermentation is done (usually 2-3
weeks).

I really liked this beer! Dark and smooth with a 'creamy' mouth feel. No
specific oatmeal flavour, but lots of body. A light brown head.

The only problem I had was that after about 3 months in the bottle it
developed a distinct off flavour. could be from the ice I suppose, or maybe
it got oxygenated during the bottling.

patrick


>From JACK.L.WEBB@OFFICE.WANG.COM Fri Feb 1 08:40 1991
Date:         01 Feb 91 08:40:46 EST
From: Jack Webb <JACK.L.WEBB@OFFICE.WANG.COM>
Subject:      Bock Recipe
Status: O


In HBD #572, Tony G was asking for Bock lore/recipes.  While I'll pass on the
lore part (I'm far from knowledgable), here's a recipe that worked well for
me in the past.

Note that this is for a Dopplebock (double bock), which is a pretty potent
brew - fair warning!  The recipe is based on the Dopplebock recipe in
Papazian's Homebrew Bible.

                                 The Grommator

    1/2 pound Pale malt
    1/2 pound Crystal malt
    1/2 pound Chocolate malt

    9.9 pounds (3 cans) dark malt extract
    1   pound dry Amber malt extract

    3 1/2 ounces Saaz hops (bittering)
      1/2 ounce Hallertauer hops (flavoring)

    Lager Yeast

    3/4 cup Corn Sugar (for bottling)

Roast the Pale malt in the oven at 325 degrees for about 15 minutes or until
golden brown.  Crack the grains and add to 1 1/2 gallons cold water.  Bring
to a boil.  Just before "serious" boiling starts, remove the grains.

Add the extracts and bittering hops.  Bring to a boil.  Boil for 60 minutes.
Add the flavoring hops and boil for an additional 5 minutes.  Remove from the
heat, cover and let steep for 15 minutes.

Strain the wort into 3 1/2 gallons of cold water in the primary.  Pitch the
yeast.  Fermentation should start quickly.

Add the Corn Sugar at bottling time.

NOTES:
I used hop plugs on this batch (1st time for me).  Wonderful stuff.  They
expand and give the appearance of using whole fresh hops.  They smell great!
I think this had a considerable influence on the taste of this brew.

Strain the wort as much as you can - there will be a lot of "stuff" floating
around because of the quantities used.

OUTRAGEOUS fermentation should start the next day and continue for a couple
of days before subsiding.  I fermented this batch at about 65 degrees for a
week, then racked to a secondary.  Additional fermentation/lagering
continued for 3 more weeks at 45-50 degrees (sorry, no SG readings - I don't
bother).  I bottled then (rack again - still had a lot of sediment), and let
it lager in the bottle refrigerated to about 40 degrees for a month.

IMHO, it came out really well.  Very dark and smooth, lightly
carbonated, with a considerable alcoholic "whammy".  Great sippin'
beer.


Jack Webb - Wang Labs, Lowell MA
jack.l.webb%office.wang.com

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