Subject: rec.models.railroad FAQ GENERAL
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 08:00:05 GMT

Date: 08 Jan 96 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 01/13: Introduction

The FAQ consists of six parts, normally posted one day apart,
every month.

The rec.models.scale FAQ is also available through WWW on:
http://www.kuai.se/%7Egriffon/railways/modeljvg/


GENERAL
SOURCES
OPERATIONS
LAYOUT BUILDING, 2 parts
CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES

Every separate article has it's own date stamp which reflects 
when that text was last updated, but I'm also planning to post 
major changes to the FAQ separately.

All contributions and corrections are welcome and should be emailed to 
Urban_Fredriksson@icl.se
Since I did write very little of the text, I'm probably not
the person to ask more detailed questions.

This file contains the following parts:

Introduction
Starting out, HO scale
Starting out, N scale
Starting out, G scale
Live steam...
Gauges and scales
Early model railroading history   
British models
CCD cameras
Distribution
Manufacturing
Thomas the Tank Engine
Gauge 1 Live Steam..

------------------------------

Date: 18 Mar 94 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 02/13: Starting out, HO scale


STARTING OUT, HO SCALE
What should I buy as a gift for somebody who is new to the hobby?

        [This answer is tailored to HO]

        The cheap packaged sets make by Bachman and Life-Like are not a good
        way to get started in the hobby. The equipment is cheaply made and as
        a consequence will tend to stall and derail frequently, and is also
        likely to break early.  While you'll spend slightly more by buying
        individual items, you can assemble a starter set from better equipment
        and still spend under $100.  The following list is a suggestion of
        specific items which will make a nice set for somebody new to the
        hobby, either adult or 8+ year old child.

        - Athearn diesel locomotive with "superpower" drive. They make
          a wide range of locomotives, so pick whatever looks good.
          The "superpower" drive means it has flywheels and a heavy 
          weight, both of which make it run better, and it only runs
          about $5 more than the base models.  $26-33

        - Several Athearn car kits [very easy to assemble].  They make
          both freight and passenger, so pick whatever interests you
          (or the recipient).  Freight cars are $4-5, passenger $7.  
          
        - MRC Tech II Railpower 1400 power pack. You'll need a few
          feet of wire and an Atlas terminal track section to attach
          it to the track. $41 (+ $2 for the terminal)

        - Enough Atlas Nickel-silver track to make an oval.  4 packs
          of 18" curves and 2 packs of straight will do. $2.80/pack

        - A copy of Model Railroader magazine. The December issue
          always has articles aimed at newcomers, but most issues will
          have introductory-level articles. $2.95

        The stuff above will make the minimum starter set, for just
        over $100, depending on the engine and cars purchased.  If you
        want to go for something slightly more advanced consider
        adding some of the following items:

        - 2 or so Atlas Snap turnouts (track switches), $6 each
          unpowered.  Get both left and right handed.
        
        - An Atlas pier set combined with one of their bridge kits.
          To make an over-under figure-8 layout you'll also need
          another package of curved track.  $10 for the pier set,
          bridges are $4-10.

        - Some building kits.  The Atlas passenger station kit is a
          classic kit which is well manufactured and can be built into
          a nice looking kit with a little time.  Probably not too
          good for a young child since it has lots of parts.  Kits run
          $5-15 for simpler ones, much more in some cases.  Include
          some Testor's liquid glue [in a cubical glass bottle.  The
          thicker version in a orange/white tube is junk]  (also not
          great around young children; for that matter, it give me a
          headache sometimes) and an X-Acto knife. 
        
        I have picked these items from personal experience - there are
        undoubtedly equally good choices from other manufacturers.  Everything
        listed here should be available at most hobby stores which carry train
        equipment. Your best bet is to find a hobby store which specializes in
        model railroads and tell them you want to assemble something like
        this.  They should be able to show you the items listed here as well
        as alternatives which you might prefer.

STARTING OUT, HO SCALE  
What should I buy if I'm willing to spend more money?
        
        Higher quality locomotives can be purchased from Atlas, Stewart, and
        KATO (who make the mechanisms for some other brands as well).  These
        models run very well, have more accurate and refined details, and will
        cost about $100 for a single locomotive.  Life-Like has a premium line
        called "Proto 2000" and Bachman has one called "Spectrum" which offer
        medium level products in the $50-75 range.
        
        In addition to Athearn, MDC (Model Die Casting, also known as
        Roundhouse) makes good quality kits in the $5-10 range, and they are
        about as easy to find as Athearn.  They make more of the modern
        equipment than does Athearn.
        
        Peco makes better quality track switches, for about $15 unpowered.
        They have a spring which keeps the switch rails firmly in the selected
        position and an under-table power unit which is easy to install
        (although you have to cut a hole in the table).  They come in
        "Electrofrog" and "Insulfrog" versions - the Insulfrog ones are "power
        routing," which means that the track power only flows in the direction
        the switch is set.  This can make it much easier to wire stub sidings
        in a block scheme, since you don't need a separate block for the
        siding.  Electrofrog switches have a live metal frog (hence the name)
        and are not electrically interchangable with the Insulfrog version.
        
STARTING OUT, HO SCALE
What if I just won the lottery?
        
        Brass models are regularly imported by a small collection of companies
        based in Japan and South Korea.  These are limited run (~100 units)
        models of specific prototypes, hand-made from brass.  They are usually
        delivered unpainted but some runs offer factory painted units at an
        extra cost.  The majority of these models are of locomotives, with
        steam more abundant than diesel or electric.  Passenger cars and
        cabooses are also fairly common, with occasional freight and
        maintenance-of-way cars offered.  The main appeal of these models is
        that well-made ones will be exact models of particular prototypes with
        a high level of detail.  They also come with high quality drives,
        something quite difficult to find in cheaper steam locomotives.
        
        The cheapest brass locomotives in HO are offered by Sunset Ltd., with
        most models in the $200-300 range.  They are reportedly good runners
        with a fairly low level of detail.  Highly detailed models are offered
        by the other importers, with steam prices in the $450-1000+ range,
        diesels in the $200-400+ range. O scale models can run twice as much
        as these prices. The best bet is to find either a local dealer or a
        reputable mail-order importer who can advise you on what looks good
        for the money.
        
        Most of these items are sold by advance reservation, so by the time
        the model actually arrives there may not be any left for sale. The
        models are advertised in advance of production so that you can place
        an order in time. Relying on the advertisements can be risky, though.
        Often the lead time is fairly slim, and not everything made gets
        well-advertised. For example, if you are interested in future brass
        items, you would be advised to consult your local hobby shop to keep
        abreast of upcoming releases. Some hobby shops will take note of your
        interests and keep you advised when model can be reserved.

        Used models can be purchased and can be a good value if purchased from
        a reputable dealer who is honest about the quality.

STARTING OUT, ENGINES
How come the affordable suggestions only include diesel engines?!?
        
        In general, steam engines are more expensive than their diesel
        counterparts.  For example, the cheapest HO "ready-to-run" steam
        engines cost about $100.  If you are the type who likes to build kits,
        the cheapest steam engine kit costs about $70 dollars.  Below is a
        short description of several popular steam engine brands.  The prices
        in square brackets are mail order prices provided by a second
        contributor, so may not be for the exact same models.
        
        Bachman: Sold as "ready-to-run" units, these engines usually cost
        about $100 [$25 - $55 (RTR)].  The bodies are plastic.  The running
        characteristics of these engines vary a lot.  If possible, see it run
        before buying.  Bowser (Cary Logo. Works) sells a conversion kit for
        these engines providing a new drive train, however this upgrade will
        cost nearly as much as the original engine.
        
        MDC/Roundhouse: Sold as kits, these engines usually cost anywhere from
        $70 to $100 [$60 - $80 (kit)].  The boilers are metal, the cabs and
        tender are plastic.  MDC makes smaller (and earlier-era) steam engines
        (4-4-2, 2-8-0, Shay, etc.).
        
        Bowser: Sold as kits, these engines usually cost anywhere from $80 to
        $150 [$70 - $155 (kit), $120 - $170 (RTR)].  The kits are all metal 
        very heavy.  The casts usually require a fair amount of filing to
        remove any flash.  Running characteristics are good and the pulling
        power is very good.  Bowser provides a number of PRR steam era engines
        as well as a Challenger and a Big Boy.
        
        Rivarossi: Formerly imported by AHM, these engines are sold
        "ready-to-run".  They cost anywhere from $150 to $500 [$120 - $250
        (RTR)].  The engines are all plastic.  One or more of the drivers has
        a "traction tire" (rubber band) to keep the lighter weight engine from
        slipping.  Running characteristics are good.  Rivarrossi makes a wide
        variety of steam engines.
        
        Mantua: [This is based somewhat on hearsay]  They seem to offer two
        grades of equipment - the older designs such as the 0-4-0 switch
        engine which are quite inexpensive ($20) but which run poorly, and
        newer models such as the 4-4-0 Atlantic which seems like a very nice
        model for about $120.  Some of the models come in kit form for less
        money.

------------------------------

Date: 18 Mar 94 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 03/13: Starting out, N scale
        
STARTING OUT, N SCALE
What if I choose N scale instead?
        
        Diesel locos: anything made by Kato.  This includes the Kato brand
        engines as well as the items recently offered by Atlas. The Con-Cor
        PA-1 was the first Kato diesel imported but most of their more recent
        offerings have not been.  These don't come cheap, most being in the
        $80 to $100 range.
        
        Bachmann has just introduced their first Spectrum engine in N scale (a
        Dash 8-40C.)  About the half the price of the Kato and runs well but
        the body shell is not quite up to the standard of the Kato engines,
        although the paint work is nice.  The regular line Bachmann is less
        expensive than these but require some work to get them running realy
        smothly in most cases.

        Life-Like have improved the quality of their engines over the past
        couple of years to the point where they make a good, inexpensive 
        alternative to Kato. Although the paint work tends to be less
        detailed, it is acceptable. These engines run well at low speeds.
        
        Rivarossi have a reasonable reputation in HO, but not a very good one
        in N scale. The problem tends to be mechanical with motors being too
        rough and burning out quickly.

        For freight cars, the best quality is MicroTrains.  These range from
        $8 to $10 for cars with basic paint schemes up to $30 for the TOFC
        flats with semi trailers.  Their couplers are also a great improvement
        over the Rapido couplers.  The easyest conversion is the trucks with
        couplers mounted, but I prefer to body-mount couplers.  MicroTrains
        also hase conversion kits for a large number of steam and diesel
        engines.

        Track:  In general, PECO is recognized as the best, especially for
        their turnouts. Atlas have been making improvements to their track
        over the last while, but they still have a lot to learn about 
        turnouts.


------------------------------

Date: 18 Mar 94 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 04/13: Starting out, G scale

STARTING OUT, G SCALE
What companies make good equipment in G scale?
        
        [The description of G-scale equipment was written by John Haskey]
        
        In my opinion, Bachman track should be avoided like the plague.  If
        you don't want to spend big bucks on LGB track, check out the REA
        track.  REA makes very decent track and is usually cheaper than LGB.
        The Bachman track will do nothing but disappoint you.
        
        On the other hand, the Bachman Locos and rolling stock are a very
        economical way to get into G-scale railroading.  Their locos are
        noisier than their LGB counterparts but consider this: a Bachman 4-6-0
        can be had for as little as $80 mail-order and it comes with lights,
        smoke, & sound.  A similiar LGB loco will cost over $500.  Granted,
        the LGB loco will probably last a lifetime but for someone getting
        started the Bachman loco represents a good value.  Make sure you avoid
        the Bachman battery powered remote controlled locos though.  I have
        friends who have been less than thrilled with them.  Bachman's rolling
        stock is serviceable out of the box and, as others have mentioned, can
        be vastly improved by replacing the trucks and couplers.  Their kits
        have great potential for kitbashing, etc.
        
        I personally own both Bachman and LGB and don't regret purchasing
        either brand.  If you're rich and have disposable income, by all means
        go out and get that LGB starter set, a few hundred feet of LGB track,
        and lots of cars and locos.  On the other hand you could start with a
        loop of REA track, a MRC throttle, and a Bachman train and be well on
        your way as well.
        

------------------------------

Date: 22 Jul 94 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 05/13: Live steam

The newsgroup rec.crafts.metalworking also has discussions relevant to
this topic.

...

Live steam railroading is the term most frequently applied to the
branch of the hobby involving larger models, in most cases suitable
for hauling (full size) passengers, and in most cases using steam
as the propulsion mechanism (hence the name). There are a series of
de-facto standard track gauges, and corresponding scales when used to
model standard gauge (4' 8 1/2") prototype locomotives:

3 1/2" gauge (worldwide), 3/4"/ft. or 1/16 scale
4 3/4"(USA), 5"(rest of world), 1"/ft. or 1/12 scale
7 1/4"(east coast USA, rest of world), 7 1/2" (rest of USA), 1 1/2"/ft.
    or 1/8 scale

Gauge 1 (1 3/4" gauge) is also sometimes included in discussions of live
steam, even though they are too small to carry passengers. There is
still a bit of 2 1/2" gauge (1/24 scale) live steam equipment and track
around, which is about the smallest able to pull real passengers.
There are also larger sizes, with 12" and 15" gauge being relatively
common. There are also a significant number of "odd" sizes in use on
private tracks.

The above scales apply when standard gauge prototypes are modeled. It is
also possible to model narrow gauge prototype locomotives using a larger
scale to operate on the above relatively standard track gauges. The
appropriate scales can be easily calculated from the track gauges
of the model and the prototype.

Live Steam models typically model all of the appropriate aspects of
a real steam locomotive, including the fire (coal or oil fired,
occasionally propane is substituted), a boiler (copper on small models,
usually steel on large models), cylinders, valve gear with reversing
means (Stephenson, Walshearts, etc.), injectors for boiler feed 
(sometimes augmented or replaced by axle or reciprocating steam pumps),
etc. Few if any modelers try to model automatic coal feeders.

Track for the larger gauges (7 1/4" -7 1/2", usually 4 3/4" - 5") is
laid directly on the ground. Ballast is used, similar to prototype
practice. Smaller gauges (3 1/2", some 4 3/4" - 5") usually use
elevated track, about 3' above ground. The larger gauges are frequently
ridden sitting directly on the tender, while the smaller gauges use a
riding car, which is typically a flat car coupled directly behind the
tender where the operator can reach the controls and tend the fire, etc.

Live steam railroading is frequently done in conjunction with live steam
clubs, which typically own or otherwise have access to a plot of land
on which layouts of one or more of the standard gauge track sizes are
laid. Clubs also sometimes provide storage facilities for the engines,
which can get quite heavy, particularly in the larger scales. Lists of
clubs (worldwide), as well as a significant amount of other information
about the hobby, are available in various live steam magazines:

Live Steam (USA)
Modeltec (USA)
Model Engineer (UK)

With the exception of Gauge 1, most live steam locomotives are hand
built. Many sets of suitable drawings exist, and in many cases rough
castings of some parts can be purchased. However, the construction of a 
live steam locomotive is still as much a hobby of amateur machining
(or in some cases a commercial machining business) as a railroad
hobby. Costs can range from a few hundred dollars (US), if you scrounge
materials and improvise a great deal (and if your time is free) to
tens or even hundreds of thousands if you buy a complete locomotive
or commission to have one built. The shop required to build one yourself
can range from a small lathe (swings of 6-9" D.) with a milling
attachment to a fully equipped machine shop, depending on the size and
complexity of the model, and to some extent the time you are willing
to expend to "make do".

Although the name implies operation by steam, there are also models of
diesels and electrics commonly built in the same scales and gauges.
These typically use automobile batteries or small gasoline engines,
either with hydraulic transmissions or alternator/motor arrangements.
Another branch of the hobby involves other live steam models, such as
steamboats, steam tractors, steam cars or stationary steam engines.

Frank Kerfoot
fwk@hogpa.att.com

------------------------------

Date: 16 May 94 14:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 06/13: Gauges and scales


                The Development of Model Railway Scales and Gauges
                --------------------------------------------------

Scale and gauge are two very common terms in Model Railroading.  However, their
true meanings and their development are often misunderstood.  This is a short
introduction to the topic which should give you a reasonable overview.  Let's
start with a couple of definitions:

   Scale:   The proportion that the model bears to the full size prototype -
            can be expressed either as size relationship (1":1ft) or a ratio
            (1:12, 1/12).
   Gauge:   The distance between the rails - generally inside rail to inside
            rail.

The major difficulty that people seem to have is that; when a model is scaled
the prototype gauge may not be scaled to the same proportion, but simply sized
to an appropriate "standard" gauge.  By convention, the scale name conveys both
the scale and the gauge.

During the last century model railways were produced to scales and gauges at
the whim of the manufacturer.  Even when different makers used the same gauge,
the variations in rail sizes, track standards, wheel standards and couplers
precluded any inter-mixing of their models.  Other than individuals building
their own systems completely, "Model Railways" as we know them today were
impossible.

The first break-through came at the Leipzig Toyfair in 1891, when Maerklin
introduced a complete range of track parts with geometric curves, straights,
points and crossings in 5 different scales.

These were:  No 5 gauge            4 5/8"
             No 4 gauge   75mm or  3"
             No 3 gauge   67mm or  2 5/8"
             No 2 gauge   54mm or  2 1/8"
             No 1 gauge   48mm or  1 7/8"

At that time, Maerklin used Roman numerals. They changed to
Arabic (1 instead of I) in recent times.

  Note: No 0 gauge 35mm or 1 3/8" was introduced several years later.

To all those people with their hands in the air, note that these gauges were
measured from rail-center to rail-center, with a common rail-head width of 3mm
(1/8").  I believe these dimensions were originally inch measurements, later
rounded to metric units.  No 4 gauge is variously quoted at 3" and 2 15/16".
Amusingly, when "American Flyer" in the USA decided to manufacture a new size,
they looked at the Maerklin catalogue and selected the No 3 gauge.
Unfortunately, they were not aware of the European method of gauge measurement
and assumed that 2 5/8" was the distance between the rails rather than the
center to center distance.  They were not the only ones to make this mistake!
When they took up the standards some manufacturer's such as Bing, called 75mm
gauge - No 3 and 67mm - No 2a.

Scales were not considered important by the toy makers.  Appearance was all
important and most makers produced models which did for several gauges with
different wheel spacings.  Usually the model in any gauge became the basis of
a cheap range for the next gauge up.  Scale models were still a long way off!

In 1912, Lionel in the United States began production of a range of trains
using Maerklin's philosophy of offering a complete range of trains, track and
accessories and adopted the No 2 gauge.  However, they too assumed that the
2 1/8" gauge stated in Maerklin's literature was measured between the rails,
which was the norm in the USA.  When the mistake was realised, Lionel coined
the term "Standard Gauge" which is still in use today in the USA.

Around 1900 No 0 (zero) gauge was introduced by Maerklin to allow train sets
to be accommodated in the smaller houses which were then being built.  Perhaps
too, it was also because toy trains were becoming cheap enough to be within the
range of people on lower incomes.  The larger gauges had already fallen out of
favour; little had been produced in No 5 gauge, No 4 attracted a few one-off
orders and No 3 gauge was purchased only by the rich.  No 1 gauge was the most
popular and confirmed the market for smaller gauges.

No 0 gauge was immediately popular as the price made railways accessible to the
middle classes.  Before WWI this movement to smaller gauges encouraged makers
to introduce smaller non-standard trains.  However none were persevered with,
probably because they were non-standard sizes.

In the 10 years before WWI, the English market began to have an influence on
the German manufacturers with Henry Greenly and others pushing for more
accurate models to be produced.  After WWI Maerklin introduced a No 00 gauge of
about 7/8" (22mm?) - this was produced from 1921 but it was dropped after 3
years in production.  Bing of Nurnberg introduced their "Table-top" range in
1921 which was to 5/8" gauge - chosen because it was half No 0 gauge.  This was
taken up by Henry Greenly for the English market in 1923.  Distler, another
German firm, produced 5/8" gauge from 1920, but this too seems to have faded
away without success.

With few exceptions, gauges larger than No 1 did not reappear after WWI.  Even
No 1 gauge had faded away somewhat by the 1930's.  S gauge made its appearance
in the USA during the interwar period, notably from American Flyer.  The track
gauge of 7/8" is the same as the 22mm gauge produced with little success by
some European manufacturers.  Bing's Table-top railway was the big success in
Germany, England and even the USA.  Copies were produced by various firms
throughout Europe eg Bub, Paya, JEP etc.

Trains were becoming more true to prototype in the larger scales and
individual makers used the toy gauges as a basis for producing models to scale.
The actual scales used with each gauge varied, most makers rounding scales up
or down which resulted in some very odd combinations, some of which continue
today.

The late 1930's saw new ranges being introduced in OO/HO scale by Hornby,
Maerklin, Trix, Lionel and others.  I have deliberately used the OO/HO scale
term here as OO and HO had not settled at their present meanings except in the
USA, where OO meant 19mm gauge, 4mm/1ft scale and HO meant 5/8" gauge with
1/8":1ft or 3.5mm:1ft.  In England and Europe, competitors used opposing terms,
probably to keep their customers faithful to one brand.

Today the currently popular (and commercially supported) Model Railroading
Scales have been generally reduced to the following range:

   Scale name   Gauge      Proportion
   IIm (or G)   45mm       1:22.5
   I            45mm       1:32
   OO           16.5mm     1:76
   HO           16.5mm     1:87
   N            9mm        1:160
   Z            6.5mm      1:200

As with all hobbies, there is always room for controversy and the wide range of
scales and gauges available, coupled with a rich history, gives us ample room
for lighthearted disagreement.  Two prime examples are G and HO.  The term G
more correctly denotes a gauge (45mm) and not a scale - common usage sees
either IIm or G being used as alternatives.  HO was derived from half No 0
gauge and strictly speaking the name should be H-zero and not H-oh - again
common usage would indicate HO is universally acceptable.  Perhaps it's these
historical oddities that helps to make Model Railroading the complete hobby
that it is!

Lately the various national bodies have been working to tighten the standards
somewhat.  For instance, the European NEM 010 standard has been designed such
that track built for the representation of a normal gauge prototype at a given
scale, could also be used for the representation of a metric gauge prototype in
the next higher scale, or for the repesentation of a narrow gauge prototype in
the second higher scale.  Thus G gauge (45mm) track can be used as I scale
(1:32), IIm scale (1:22.5) or IIIe scale (1:16).  Furthermore, NEM 010
partitions all existing prototype gauges into groups as follows:

   Normal        1250mm - 1700mm
   Metric         850mm - 1250mm
   Narrow         650mm -  850mm
   Industrial     400mm -  650mm

The metric, narrow and industrial gauges are indicated by an m,e or i appended
to the scale symbol.  No letter denotes a normal gauge prototype

The following pages list some of the combinations of gauge and scale in use
since WWII.  They are blocked in "family" groups.

Scale name   Origin    Gauge     Proportion        Comments
----------   ------    -----     ----------        --------

Model Engineering scales:
-------------------------
                       24"       5":1ft            Live steam - parks & commercial
                       19"       4":1ft            Live steam - parks & commercial
                       18"       4":1ft            Live steam - parks & commercial
                       15"       3":1ft            Live steam
                       10 1/4"                     Triang Minex - proprietary
                                                                        1960's
                       9 1/2"    2":1ft
             USA       7 1/2"    2 1/2":1ft        Live steam - narrow gauge
                       7 1/2"    1 6/10":1ft       Live steam
                       7 1/2"    1 1/2":1ft        Live steam
             USA       7 1/4"    1 1/2":1ft        Live steam
                       5 1/4"    1":1ft            Live steam
                       3 1/2"    1":1ft            Live steam - 3'6" gauge
                       3 1/2"                      Live steam

Model Railway scales:                          
---------------------
VI           Europe    181.8mm   1:5.5             NEM standard gauge
1"           Britain   4 13/16"  1":1ft            Defunct tinplate scale
No 5 gauge             4 5/8"                      Maerklin standard - 1891
V            Europe    125mm     1:8               NEM standard gauge
11/16"       Britain   3 1/4"    11/16":1ft        Defunct tinplate scale
No 4 gauge             75mm or 3"
IV           Europe    90.9mm    1:11              NEM standard gauge
No 3 gauge             67mm or 2 5/8"
III          Europe    62.5mm    1:11              NEM
             USA       2 1/2"                      American Flyer
IIIe         Europe    45mm      1:16              NEM narrow gauge
II           Europe    54mm      1:22.5            NEM normal gauge - Magris
Standard Gauge
             USA       2 1/8"                      Lionel, Boucher
IIm (or G)   Europe    45mm      1:22.5            LGB Metre gauge models -
                                                                       "Garten"
G            USA       45mm      1:24-28           Narrow gauge - 2ft
SM45         Britain   45mm      16mm:1ft          Narrow gauge - 3ft
SM32         Britain   32mm      16mm:1ft          Narrow gauge - 2ft
                                               
No 1 Gauge   Britain   45mm      10mm:1ft          Standard
I            Europe    45mm      1:32              NEM normal gauge - Maerklin
9mm          NZ        32mm      9mm:1ft           NZR models - 3'6" gauge

O            Britain   32mm      7mm:1ft, 1:43.5
OF           Britain   32mm      7mm:1ft  Fine scale - more accurate wheel std
ScaleSeven   Britain   33mm      7mm:1ft, 1:43.5  Exact scale option
No 0 Gauge   Europe    32mm      1:43.5      
O            Europe    32mm      1:45
O            France    32mm      23mm:1m
Om           Europe                                Narrow gauge - 1 metre
O 27         USA       1 1/4"    No scale          Lionel Toys, 27" diameter curves
O 72         USA       1 1/4"    No scale          Lionel Toys, 72" diameter curves
O 17         USA       1 1/4"    17/64":1ft, 1:45
O            USA       1 1/4"    1/4":1ft, 1:48    NMRA standard
Proto 48     USA       1 11/16"  1/4":1ft, 1:48    1/4" AAR fine scale - 1950's
Q            USA       1 3/16"   1/4":1ft, 1:48
On3 1/2      USA       7/8"      1/4":1ft, 1:48    Narrow gauge - 3'6"
On3          USA       3/4"      1/4":1ft, 1:48    Narrow gauge - 3ft
On2 1/2      Britain   16.5mm    7mm:1ft           Narrow gauge
O Minex      Germany   16.5mm    1:43.5            Maerklin HO stud contact 
                                                                  - 750mm gauge
Oe           Germany   16.5mm    1:43.5            Fleischmann Magic Train
                                                                  - 750mm gauge
On2 1/2 (30) USA       39/64"    1/4":1ft, 1:48    Narrow gauge - 2'6"
On2          USA       1/2"      1/4":1ft, 1:48            Narrow gauge - 2ft
On1 1/2 (18) USA       9mm       1/4":1ft, 1:48    Narrow gauge - 1'6"

IOM          Britain   12mm      5.5mm:1ft         Gem IOM - 2'3" narrow gauge
Fn3          Britain   16.5mm    5.5mm:1ft, 1:55.5 Narrow gauge - 3ft

H1           USA       7/8"      3/16":1ft, 1:64   Forerunner of S scale
S            USA       7/8"      3/16":1ft, 1:64
S 5'6"       NZ                  3/16":1ft, 1:64   Canterbury broad gauge
Sn3 1/2      NZ        16.5mm    3/16":1ft, 1:64   Represents 3'6" gauge
Sn3          USA       9/16"     3/16":1ft, 1:64   Narrow gauge - 3ft
Sn2 1/2      USA       15/32"    3/16":1ft, 1:64   Narrow gauge - 2'6"
Sn2          USA       3/8"      3/16":1ft, 1:64   Narrow gauge - 2ft
Table Top    Europe    5/8"                        Bing 1921-1934
HO           Britain   16.5mm    4mm:1ft           H Greenly - 1923 on
OO           Britain   5/8"      3.5mm:1ft         Developed from Bing standards
HO           Britain   16.5mm    3.5mm:1ft         Unusual, foreign models only
OO           Britain   16.5mm    4mm:1ft, 1:76.2   BRMRA standards
EM           Britain   18mm      4mm:1ft, 1:76.2   (Eighteen Millimetre)
EM           Britain   18.2mm    4mm:1ft, 1:76.2   Revised standard
EEM          Britain   18.83mm   4mm:1ft, 1:76.2   Exact scale movement
P4           Britain   18.82mm   4mm:1ft, 1:76.2   Final form of EEM
S4           Britain   18.82mm   4mm:1ft, 1:76.2   Exact scale flanges too
OO Broad G   Britain   28mm      4mm:1ft, 1:76.2   GWR Broad Gauge - 7'0  1/4"
OO9          Britain   9mm       4mm:1ft, 1:76.2   Narrow gauge on N gauge track
OO           USA       19mm      4mm/1ft           Prewar commercial
                       (3/4")    (5/32")
OOb5 1/4     Ireland   21mm      4mm:1ft, 1:76.2   
HOb5 1/4     Australia 18.5mm    1:87              Victoria - 5'3" broad gauge
OOE          Europe    16.5mm    1.1mm:1m, 1:91
HOE          Europe    16mm      1:87              Followed from Bing, Bub 5/8"
                                                                          gauge
HO           Europe    16.5mm    1:90              Trix Express
HO           Europe    16.5mm    1:87              NEM standard
HO           USA       16.5mm    1:87              NMRA standard
Hon3 1/2     NZ        12mm      1:87              NZR - 3'6"
Hom          Europe    12mm      1:87              Narrow gauge - 1 meter
Hon3         USA       10.5mm    1:87              Narrow gauge - 3ft
HOn900                 10.33mm   1:87              Narrow gauge - 900mm
HOn800                 9.18mm    1:87              Narrow gauge - 800mm
Hoe          Europe    9mm       1:87              Narrow gauge - 750-785mm
HOn2 1/2     USA       9mm       1:87              Narrow gauge - 2'6"
Hon2         USA       9/32"     1:87              Narrow gauge - 2ft
HOn600                 6.88mm    1:87              Narrow gauge - 600mm
HOz          Europe    6.5mm     1:87              Narrow gauge - 600mm

E            USA       19/32"    1/8":1ft, 1:96
QO           USA       6/10"     1/8":1ft, 1:96
OOC          Europe    14.3mm    1:100             "Cent" attempt to establish a
                                                                  logical scale
TT           USA       12mm      1/10":1ft         H P Products - "TableTop"
TT           Europe    12mm      1:120
TT "120th"   NZ        9mm       1/10":1ft, 1:120  NZR - 3'6" gauge
TT3          Britain   12mm      3mm:1ft, 1:101.6  Tri-ang 1950's-60's
TTX          Britain   12mm      1/9":1ft, 1:108   } attempts to improve 
TM           Britain   13.5mm    3mm:1ft, 1:101.6  } scale/gauge ratio
Scale 3      Britain   14.2mm    3mm:1ft,1:101.6

QOO          USA       0.3"      1/16":1ft, 1:192
HH(O)        USA       5/16"     1.75mm:1ft, 1:174 NMRA standard - c1948
OOO          Britain   9.5mm     2mm:1ft, 1:152.4  Superceded by 000
2mm scale    Britain   9.42mm    2mm:1ft, 1:152.4  Current 2mm Association
OOO          Britain   9mm       2mm:1ft            Lone Star Treble O - 1950's
MiniTrix     Europe    9mm       1:150             1950's push along trains
             Europe    9mm       1:200             Arnold 1960
K            Europe    8mm       1:180             Forerunner of N
N            Europe    9mm       1:160             NEM standard - mid 1960's
N            USA       9mm       1:160             NMRA standard
N            Britain   9mm       2 1/16mm:1ft, 1:148
                                                   British standard
N-NZR        NZ        6.5mm     1:160             NZR - 3'6" gauge
Nm           Europe    6.5mm     1:160             Swiss metre gauge
Nn3          USA       6.5mm     1:160             USA - 3ft gauge

TTT          USA       0.236"    1/20":1ft, 1:240  NMRA proposed standard
Z            Europe    6.5mm     1:220             Maerklin
HZ           Germany   3.25mm    1:440             Railex - 1992

(X)          British   3/16"     1mm:1ft           R Walkley - 1935
Un-named     British   1/8"      1:480             1970's

This list was mainly compiled by Greg Proctor and Peter Platt (oaplattsouthpower.co.nz)

Their own comments about it:

Although we try to keep it relatively up-to-date and you will notice that it 
includes some comments from recent net postings, we do not claim it to be 
complete or ABSOLUTELY accurate.  In fact it would be safer to say that it is
guaranteed to contain some mistakes. Certainly, we know it's not complete 
as it is known to be missing many localised scales from around the world.


------------------------------

Date: 16 Dec 92 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 07/13: Early model railroading history


1825    Josef Ritter von Baader builds a model in the park of the
        Nymphenberg castle to interest the king of Bayern in a
        real railroad project. (But he liked the Main-Donau canal
        better.)

        Promotional models are not uncommon in the following
        decades.

1835    The railway between Nurnberg and Furth is opened, and toy
        makers in the area make solid castings of the steam
        wagons.

        These are followed by tin plate, wood and cardboard
        models in the decades to come.

1862    Josehp, Myers & Co of London becomes the first company to
        have a steam powered model locomotive in their catalog.
        Carogatti in Konigsberg becomes the first German company
        to do so in 1869.

        The models of this time always ran on the floor, most
        were fueled by ethanol. Smallest gauge was 63 mm, but up
        to 115 mm wasn't uncommon.

1881    Bing starts making flywheel and steam powered models.

1882    Planck shows an electical train model, but this was a
        little before the technology was mature.

1885    First clockwork toys made by S Guntermann of Nurnberg.
        All other makers soon follow.

1891    On the Leipzig exhibition, Marklin are the first to have
        a track system for their clockwork trains.

        They ran with fixed speed, but could be stopped with
        devices between the rails that acted on levers on the
        locomotive.
        The track system had straight and curved sections as well
        as switches. The sections had two rail joiners at one
        end, none at the other, adapters with joiners at both
        ends, or no joiners also existed.

        Gauges were standardized:       0       1       2       3
                                        35 mm   48 mm   54 mm   75 mm
        but as at that time the gauge was measured from the
        center of the rails, and they were 3 mm wide, subtract 3
        mm to get the modern equivalents.
        Level of detailing was abysmal. In gauge 0 and 1 the cars
        didn't even have doors hinted at.

        Caretti invents a system with one rail joiner at each
        end.

        All Nurnberg companies adapt the gauges 0, 1 and 2. In
        USA Ives uses 0 and 1. However lots of companies had
        gauges between 2 and 3: Bing's gauge 3 was 67 mm and 4
        was 75 mm; Shonner's 67 mm was called IIa; Planck had a
        65 mm gauge they called 8.

1898    Shonner becomes the first European company to have an
        electric streetcar model, companies in USA had been doing
        so for some time before European compaies caught up.

        Three different systems are already in existance: 2-rail,
        center rail or catenary.

        Marklin started just before 1900 with electric
        streetcars, which soon appear in steam engine form.

1902    Shonner announces a gauge 000 with a 25 mm gauge. This
        makes us believe that there had been something called 00
        by then, perhaps Bing's 28 mm track. All of the early
        small gauges became failures, as they were considered too
        toylike.

1904    The first electric trains in the small gauges 1 and 0
        appear, but the motors are still oversize.

        Most equipment run on 50-60 V DC. As controllers were
        mostly used simple resistors directly connected to the
        house current of 110 or 220 V. Not very safe.

        There was already since a number of year an English
        magazine _Model Engineer_ for hobbyists who built their
        own scale models, and when the Englishman Basset-Lowke
        starts collaborating with the German company Bing, which
        gets to make models of English prototypes, the
        transformation of the toy trans into a hobby for adults
        is started.

        1:16 with 89 mm gauge was common among the English
        hobbyists, but that was a little too large to become
        practical. The Basset-Lowke models were made to standard
        gauges, but not to any scale. The English thought
        measuring from the center of the rails was stupid, they
        wanted to measure like the prototype, and the trains kept
        to a scale corresponding to that.

        As the English were influencial,
        gauges were standardized:       0       1       2       3
                                        32 mm   45 mm   51 mm   64 mm
                                        1:43,5  1:30    1:27    1:23

1914-18 The war meant the destruction of most of the German
        industry. For the surving companies it took about a
        decade to regain what they had lost.

        In England, gauge 0 to 1:43,5 became common, through the
        makers Basset-Lowke, LMC (Leeds Model Company) and Hornby
        (Meccano), with input from the model railroad clubs.

        In USA, makers Lionel, Ives and American Flyer mainly
        made Standard Gauge models, which was close to, but not
        identical to #1 gauge. They also made 0 gauge models.
        Gauge 1 and 2 were kept to the German standard.

1923    Basset-Lowke, together with his designer Greenly,
        introduces what he considers the first table top layout
        trains. The gauge is 00, 16.5 mm track to the scale 1:76.
        As it now had become practical to build stamped metal
        track with roadbed, ties and rails combined, with the
        centre rail isolated, Bing gets large orders for it from
        England. But both in Germany and USA the new gauge was
        largely ignored by the manufacturers.

        In USA, the gauge 00 gets a track gauge of 19 mm to fit
        the scale 1:76.

1935    NMRA is founded in USA, and sets the standards for 0
        scale track and wheels, but not the scale. Both 1/4"=1'
        and 17/64"=1' were widely used to build models to run on
        1 1/4" (0) gauge track. American manufacturers agree that
        H0 is 16.5 mm track and the ratio 1 foot = 3.5 mm.

        Basset-Lowke adjusts the scale to the track gauge and it
        becomes 1:87.

        Trix-Werke in Germany (who was a competitor to Meccano),
        starts making 16.5 mm track on a roadbed of pressed
        cardboard, so that all three rails could be isolated from
        each other, thus permitting two trains to operate
        independently on the same track. They ran on 14 V AC, and
        direction was changed with a pulse of higher voltage.
        They used a scale of 1:90.

1936    Marklin introduces trains on 16.5 mm track with the
        centre rail isolated, scale beeing 1:85. The motors had
        two windings and were run on rectified AC. Depending on
        what polarity was chosen at the controller, rectifieres
        in the locomotive activated either of the two windings,
        thus controlling direction of travel. This didn't work
        too well, so Marklin adopted the Trix system.
        Marklin does not call this scale H0 until after the
        1939-45 war.

1938    American Flyer starts producing models to 1:64 scale,
        but keep the same track gauge as 0.

        What is to become S gauge, 1:64 models on 7/8" track,
        is introduced by Cleveland Manufacturing under the name
        C-D gauge.

        After the war American Flyer drops 0 and H0 and offer
        1:64 trains on S gauge 2-rail track. Lionel abandons 00
        gauge.

(Some German names in this article really have umlauts: Nurnberg,
Nuernberg; Shonner, Shoenner; Marklin, Maerklin; Furth, Fuerth;
Guntermann, Guentermann.)



------------------------------

Date: 18 Mar 94 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 08/13: British models

BRITISH MODELS
A question to the European modelers out there.  How well does the
Hornby OO/HO units run?  Are they in the same league as Atlas, Athern,
Model Power or Bachmann?  And as a side question, what is the status
of Model Power?  With most of their trains being produced in Yugoslavia
are they now effectively out of business or have they shifted their

.I have just begun dabbling in British models.  Although it's difficult
.to make the comparisons you've asked, because some manufacturer's only
.make diesels, while hornby makes predominantly steam, and each type of
.model has its own idiosyncracies because of wheel size and drive
.mechanism, I would say that Hornby is about equivalent to Athearn, a
.fairly decent running model, with about the same level of detail.  The 
.nly drawback I have seen re: Hornby vs. American HO is that the check
.gauge - distance between driving wheel flanges, back to back, is fairly
.narrow.  This does not seem to affect them on Atlas Custom-line
.turnouts, but makes for rocky running through Atlas snap-switches.  The
.tread is also a bit wide and can short out the rails close to the tip
.of the frog.  Again, this seem to happen mostly with snap switches,
.which I bought for the kiddies to play with.  I'll probably widen the
.frogs with a razor saw, leaving the guard rail alone so it will still
.keep the flange away from the tip of the frog.  A little nail polish
.on the rails near the from will help a bit also.
.
.By reputation, Bachman Branchlines from England are very decent runners,
.better than their American line.  Same for Dapol.  If you would compare
.Hornby to American HO steam, they would probably rank at least with
.Mantua, and lots better than Bachman or Model Power.  For the money,
.they are a good deal.  I would like to note that I have seen an
.improvement in American inexpensive steam, such as Bachman Plus and it
.looks like IHC is beginning to produce some decent running steam which
.I plan on using as the basis for a kitbashing project.


------------------------------

Date: 18 Mar 94 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 09/13: CCD cameras

CCD CAMERAS
Over the weekend, a friend and I attended a train show and saw a Lionel
engine with a camera in it for $125. Was this a reasonable price? Is the
receiver supplied also? It wasn't obvious from looking at the box. Do
other companies sell cameras mounted in G gauge units?

Of more interest to us is how does it work? We assume that a cheap CCD
imaging chip was used, but do they bother to put the signal on a carrier
or do they just put the bare video on the track? If the latter, the
receiver is likely little more than an RF modulator.

.They use a CCD camera, signal is on a 4 MegHz carrier, you can buy
.the camera as a replacement part from Lionel (about $69 plus $5 S/H)
.which includes the receiver.  The signal is transmitted through the
.rails.

.An article on modifying the unit must have appeared in Model RR as
.one I wrote was turned down (just a little too late).  This is not
.a bad price if it is new, it's like getting the engine for $60 if
.you want the TV for something else!

.I think picture is about 150x100 or so. It's not bad for black and
.white and always interesting to visitors at my layout (I have the
.O scale version and there is an HO version).
.......
.Actually, we found the picture quality to be pretty awful. It only
.works well under very bright lights, and the battery drains very,
.very quickly. We modified one to serve as a survelliance camera, and
.it works very well out in the bright sunlight. Unfortunately, the
.camera is very sensitive to the power supply, and even a filtered,
.regulated supply causes interference. Picture quality on a regular
.TV is fairly decent, with good enough resolution to see raindrops
.and snowflakes. As far as use on the layout though, it's pretty bad.


------------------------------

Date: 18 Mar 94 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 10/13: Distribution

DISTRIBUTION, HOBBY EQUIPMENT
Can anyone provide some information on how the model railroad
equipment marketing and distribution process works?
Who (besides Walthers) are the distributors, and what's their typical
relationship with manufacturers and dealers?

.Toy and hobby distributors in various cities.  They generally sell only
.to established retail stores.

.Con-Cor and Western Star are two I can think of off hand.

DISTRIBUTION, DISCOUNTS
What are typical mark-ups/discounts along at various stages of the process?

.Discount to retail store is usually about 40% of retail price although
.books are typically at 33% and brass at 5-10%.
.......
.Walther's retail price is a 40% markup.  Some dealers do only a 20-30%
.markup.
.......
.Hobby shops typically buy merchandise for 60% of list and sell it for
.80%-90% of list.
.......
.Many hobby shops stock most items at or near the suggested retail price,
.but typically offer specials and quantity discounts on new or popular
.items.

DISTRIBUTION, CHANNELS
Do all products get sold through distributors, or are some supplied directly
to dealers?

.Depends on the manufacturer. Direct to dealer distribution can actually
.produce a higher profit for the manufacturer because there is no
.middleman to pay. Because of this, generally only smaller companies
.deal directly with dealers.


------------------------------

Date: 18 Mar 94 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 11/13: Manufacturing



MANUFACTURING, MARKET RESEARCH
How do manufacturers decide what products to market?  What kind of market
research, if any, is performed?

.Very often products from smaller and specialty manufacturers are
.personal requests, or products that are perceived to fill a gap in
.the market. (Such as RPP's modern diesel shells)

MANUFACTURING, OEM
Which of the larger "manufacturers" (e.g., Atlas, Athearn, etc.) really do
their own manufacturing, and which simply put their name on a supplier's
product?

.Athearn manufactures their own product. Con-Cor is shifting its
.production to its Arizona plant, so they manufacture most of their
.own product. Walther's does it's own freight cars, but the engines
.are imports. Atlas' engines are imports (From Kato). Bachmann and
.I believe Model Power engines are imports.

.ConCor locomotives are made mostly by Roco (GP's, SD's, E7's).  The
.switchers (SW7 and MP15) were made by Kato.  I believe that currently
.Roco makes the parts for ConCor and ConCor has them painted and
.assembled in Mexico.

.Atlas makes their own cars (N, O), track, and buildings (HO, N, O).
.Locos are made by Kato (GP7, C4xx, RS3/11, RSD4/5/12) or Roco (S2/4,
.RS1, FP7, and EMD's now sold by ConCor).

.Bachmann engines are made in China by Bachmann (they own their own
.overseas production facilities).  Bachmann (they claim) is the world's
.largest producer of model/"toy" trains.


------------------------------

Date: 18 Mar 94 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 12/13: Thomas the Tank Engine

THOMAS THE TANK ENGINE
Help! My kids have fallen in love with Thomas the Tank Engine. What can I do?

.[If in England]
.Actual locomotives fitted with faceplates to look like Thomas and
.Friends make the rounds to various rail museums that offer rides to
.the public on weekends and holidays.  Human characters from the
.stories accompany the engines.  If you find no other source of
.information, you can investigate this in the schedules section of the
.many rail enthusiast magazines available at typical newstands all over
.England. You might possibly be able to get such information from the
.British Rail tourist office in this country. 
.
.Two years ago I saw these engines at the the Didcot Rail Center near
.Oxford. I was alone, but the emotions shown by English children seeing
.the live engines for the first time were quite touching.  That Center
.may be reached by rail from London, Oxford, Reading, etc. and is
.within walking distance of the British Rail Station.  Interesting rail
.museums are found in similarly convenient locations throughout the
.country.  All kinds of Thomas parahernalia can be purchased there.
.
.Others are:
.York:..National Rail Museum
.Carnforth:.Steamtown
.Bridgnorth:.Severn Valley ... literally dozens of such centers.

THOMAS THE TANK ENGINE, DETAIL
Can anyone supply details on Thomas?

.This article is from the April 1993 issue of Model Railroader,
.pages 86 and 87.  The article and photos are by Michael Edwards.

.Extracted here without permission, see above paragraph for due credit.

."Thomas the Tank Engine has steamed through many a childhood since the
.Reverend Wilbert Awdry began writing stories about the little blue
.locomotive 40 years ago.  The books are wonderful, but the TV
.adaptations - well, they're wonderful too.  To find out how the
.producers of Shining Time Station achieve such stunning results, I
.visited the famous Shepperton film studios on the outskirts of London.

.It all began 12 years ago, when executive producer Britt Allcroft was
.working on a film about the age of steam.  The film's technical consul-
.tant was none other than Rev. Awdry, and Allcroft began thinking about
.interpreting his creations as TV characters.
.
.To some observers, a children's series staring a steam locomotive seemed
.a big gamble - this was the age of space epics and Steven Spielberg.
.Reverend Awdry himself was concerned that TV might destroy the delicate,
.period quality the original book illustrations conveyed.  He was a
.stickler for accuracy.
.
.He need not have worried.  Authenticity became a major goal, and
.specialty bookshops were scoured for reference works.
.
.The locomotives
.
.For the pilot film, the train models were scratchbuilt from plastic.
.However, the problems were many and varied.  To obtain better
.reliability, the producers turned to Marklin's superbly engineered
.O scale locomotives with their die-cast metal frames.  They added new
.acrylic bodies with radio-controlled eyes.
.
....
.
.The many faces of Thomas
.
.Those removable faces bring the characters alive, even though the only
.moving parts are the eyes.  Each character has its own basic face, which
.was first sculpted in clay.  Then a rubber mold was made, and copies
.were cast in a mixture of resin and autobody filler.  These were
.reworked to different expressions from which the final silicone castings
        were taken.


Date: 15 Aug 95 01:00:00 GMT
Subject: FAQ GENERAL, 13/13: Gauge 1 Live Steam

.
Gauge 1 Live steam FAQ


Introduction:

So-called "small scale" live steam is actually on the large end of the
usual model railroading spectrum, though most live steam equipment runs on
much wider track (.75" scale or larger). Live steamers are easy to find in
gauge 1 (45mm or "G" gauge), less common but available in 0 gauge (32mm).

Gauge 1 live steamers are popular with garden railroaders because they
interoperate with electric gauge 1 equipment and because some of the
problems with live-steam operation are lessened outdoors. (Most people
don't have room for a .25- inch gauge track in the basement; spillage of
hot water or oil drips are more problematic on indoor layout materials.)
Some larger scale steam clubs also have gauge 1 tracks for the smaller
steamers. Because of the interoperability, most gauge 1 live steamers seem
to belong to clubs with other gauge 1 modelers, rather than specialized
gauge 1 steam clubs. (The folks who run electric models really seem to
like the live steamers, too!)


What makes up a gauge 1 live steamer? They share the basic characteristics
with all live steamers: they burn some sort of fuel to boil water and move
cylinders. They may differ from gauge 1 electric trains in that they
typically have working parts such as valve gear, pressure gauges, relief
valves, feedwater pumps, etc. They may differ from larger live steamers in
that their mechanical design is (often) simpler. Fuels are usually methyl
alcohol ("meths"), butane or solid fuels (rare). Modeling detail spans a
wide range: a live steamer will run with no more than a boiler, cylinders,
valves and pushrods. Aster and others make super-detailed scale models.
There are many other models which fall in between these extremes. Gauge 1
live steamers typically pull rolling stock which is also seen behind
large-scale electrics: LGB, Bachmann, scratch-built.

There are many technical distinctions among live steamers which will
affect both price and performance. Some examples: boiler types may be
"flue", "pot-boiler", "porcupine", "Smithies", etc. Each of these
represents a trade-off of construction complexity (and thus cost) vs.
efficiency. Some locos have two steam cylinders, some only one. Those with
one sometimes have dummy cylinders where they would be on a prototype,
with the working cylinder between the frames. Cylinders may be fixed (with
a wristpin on the driving rods) or oscillating (the driving rod is a
single piece, and the cylinder moves to accomodate the movement of the
attachment point on the driving wheel).

Because of the relative complexity of steam locomotives, it's usually a
good idea to chat with someone who knows about them, or to do some
learning about them, before buying one. Below are some resources which can
help.

On the horizon: gas-electric locomotives. The "large scale" live steam
community (1:12 or 1:8 scale) have been running gas-electric or
diesel-electric locomotives for some years. These are now starting to
appear in the smaller scales, too. These locos model modern diesels in
their operation: an internal combustion engine provides power to drive an
electric generator in the locomotive cab, which in turn powers the
traction motors which drive the locomotive's wheels. Kosaku Wada of the
Yokohama Live Steamers club (Japan) has developed a gauge 1 gas-electric
using an engine developed for radio controlled helicopters. The prototype
is converted from an LGB European box-cab diesel model, and is a smooth
runner and a strong puller. Mr. Wada has arranged for representation in
the USA, for those interested in going to completely self-contained (and
prototypical) power sources. (No products have been announced yet.)


RESOURCES:

Magazines:
In addition to Live Steam magazine, there are several publications which
cater wholly or partially to the gauge 1 live steam crowd.

Steam In the Garden magazine.
Steamchest Publications
P.O. Box 335
Newark Valley, NY 13811 USA
phone: 607-642-8119
bimonthly. US$21/year ($27.50 Canadian, US$28.50 foreign).
(UK subscriptions available through Salem Steam Models in Wales or
Bandbright Ltd in Norfolk.) The only magazine totally devoted to
small-scale live steam. Features product reviews, construction articles
and plans, columns on machining and building, etc. Editor is an avid live
steamer.

Garden Railways magazine
Sidestreet Bannerworks
P.O. Box 61461
Denver, CO 80206 USA
phone 303-733-4779
bimonthly. US$21/year (US$28 foreign).
Focussed entirely on outdoor, large scale (almost exclusively gauge 1)
railroading. Often includes articles, product reviews, etc. relating to
gauge 1 live steam. Editor is an avid live steamer, and has also made a
very complete and informative videotape introducing small-scale live
steamers.

Books:

Beginner's Guide to Large Scale Model Railroading by Marc Horovitz and
Russ Larson.  1994. Greenberg/Kalmbach. ISBN 0-89778-397-2. 96pp.
$16.95 Chapter 9 of this book is an excellent orientation to small scale
live steamers. Covers past and current developments, theory and practice
of steam engines, operational procedures, radio control, available
equipment and considerations for the starter. Numerous illustrations.


Videotape:

Introduction to Small Scale Live Steam by Marc Horovitz
1 hour, 56 min. $49.95 + $3 shipping/handling
Sidestreet Bannerworks
P.O. Box 61461
Denver, CO 80206 USA
A plainly produced but highly informative basic course in little steamers.
Horovitz presents a lecture on the hows and whys of live steamers, showing
numerous examples of locomotives from antique puddlers to the latest
finescale Asters. He handles them, works on them, fires them and runs them
onscreen. Like sitting down for two hours and having a 15- year veteran
tell you everything he knows, only better organized than in it would be in real life.


Online:
In addition to rec.models.railroad, the Usenet group
rec.crafts.metalworking has many live steamers who read and contribute.
Often a question on the topic could go equally well in either group. If
you have live steam questions, or wish to start doing metalworking
(machining, sheetmetal, soldering and welding) in your railroad modeling,
you may wish to look in on that group, too.

Events:

National Gauge One Steam Up 
every January (Jan. 12-14 1996 upcoming)
Info/registration from
Jerry Reshew
5411 Diamondhead Drive East
Diamondhead, MS 39525 USA
phone: 601-255-1747
This is the largest small-scale live steam event in the US. 1995's event
saw over 100 steam enthusiasts and their engines running almost around the
clock. Workshops cover topics such as scratchbuilding and kitbashing,
radio control, fuel choice, machining, layout planning, etc. Diamondhead
Mississippi is approx 1 hour drive east from New Orleans.


Indiana Transportation Museum Small Scale Steamup 
every September (Sept. 15-17 1995 upcoming)
Info/registration from
Dr. John Bloxdorf
2540 North Ninth Street
Terre Haute, IN 47804 USA
phone 812-466-1007
Features 380 feet of tracks in five separate lines in an outdoor setting
on the grounds of the Indiana Transportation Museum, in a suburb of
Indianapolis.


National Garden Railway Convention 
upcoming: Orlando, Florida, 23-28 April 1996
Info/registration from
Registrar
P.O. Box 210304
Royal Palm Beach, Florida 33421-0304
Phone: 407-433-4535
Fax: 407-433-8136
E-mail: loco22@aol.com
The National Garden Railway Conventions are the outgrowth of live steam
meets organized by Sidestreet Bannerworks (publishers of Garden Railways)
in the mid-1980's. A live steam track is always available and there are
semi-organized live steam events during the convention.


Organizations:

Gauge 1 Association 
(Thanks to John Bryant, bryant@sce.carleton.ca, for the following info on
the Gauge 1 Association.) Membership is 12 pounds a year and, if I
remember correctly, there is also a one-time 5 pound charge for new
members. There is an excellent quarterly newsletter (the last one ran 64
pages) and when I joined I received an information package including a
complete how-to booklet on building a simple Gauge 1 locomotive, a list of
suppliers, and miscellaneous other items including newsletter back issues.
The one potential catch is that the Association's interests and membership
are primarily British. This is fine for me - an expatriate Brit most
interested in British railways - but might not appeal to others. Gauge 1
Association addresses are as follows:

Hon. Secretary R.E. (Bob) Hines
3, Coniston Close,
Felixstowe, Suffolk IP11 9SW
ENGLAND
Telephone: (039 42) 2233

Membership Sec. Mrs Laura Foster
112, Clarendon Road,
Broadstone, Dorset BH18 9HY
ENGLAND
Telephone: (0202) 694213


Compiled by: Vance R. Bass, Nashville Garden Railway Society 
Last updated: 11 August, 1995 


Vance Bass.<http://edge.edge.net/~vrbass/>
Nashville Garden Railway Society
=====================================
The steam locomotive teaches us that the railway age was a totally
viable and a civilised alternative to the hideous consequences of
basing national economies on road transportation.  -- Colin Garratt
