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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 05:08:00 +0100
Subject: Mountain Biking FAQ
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 * Newsgroups:
rec.bicycles.off-road,alt.mountain-bike,alt.answers,rec.answers,news.answers

Last-modified: Mar 14 1996

Version 1.06
Subject:  1  A Guide to This FAQ

Subject:  1A.  Contents

! means updated since last FAQ
+ means it is a new section

1.  A Guide to this FAQ
    A) Contents   
    B) A Few words from the author 
    C) How to get this FAQ  
    D) IMBA Rules of the Trail
    E) Disclaimer
2. Riding Skills
    A) Basic Riding Position
    B) Turning  
    C) Braking
    D) Shifting  
    E) Uphills  
    F) Downhills  
    G) Front Wheel Wheelies  
    H) Small Logs  
    I) Logs about 1' to 2'  
    J) Bunny Hopping
    K) Water Riding
    L) Mud Riding  
    M) Loose Stuff  
    N) Skidding
    O) Singletracks
    P) Switchbacks  
3. Tech
    A) Installing Grips
    B) Clipless Pedals
    C) How to increase braking power  
    D) Shifters  
    E) Improving Grip Shifters' rear shifting  
    F) Brake Squeaks
    G) Aheadsets vs. Conventional Headsets  
    H) Bar Ends
    I) Tire Info  
    J) Grease/Wax/Oil   
4.  Miscellaneous
    A) Seinfeld's Bike
    B) Race Tips
    C) Mountain Biking Dictionary  
    D) Mail order vs. Local Bike Shops  
    E) MTB Commuting  
    F) Weight Lifting  
    G) Knee Pain  
    H) What to Carry 
    I) Mountain Bike IRC Channel !
    J) MTB mailing list !

------------------------------

Subject: 1B.  A Few Words From the Author

Hi, my name is Vincent Cheng.  I have been reading the rec.bicycles.* 
newsgroups for a few years and have been participating on the mtb mailing 
list for about 12 months now.  Every week, I see the same questions about 
mountain biking, however, no one has ever taken the time to write a FAQ 
for mountain biking.  Since I have nothing better to do, I have compiled 
this little FAQ file.

Now, you might ask...  How is this the official Mountain Biking FAQ?  Did 
someone gave me permission to make it official?  Of course not!  No one
else would take the time to do it, and I'm the first one to actually complete
the whole FAQ, therefore, this is the official one.

This FAQ is different from most FAQ's you have seen.  Most FAQ's are a
compilation of articles posted regarding the topics.  In this FAQ, most
of the material are written by myself.  The articles are then later 
published on the mtb mailing list for editing and revising.  In the 
following sections, the parts that were written by others will have their
names on them.

I am no expert in the area of mountain biking.  I'm only 18 and I have only
mountain biked for about 3 years.  However, I have been involved in the 
technical side of cycling for over 5 years.  I have worked in various shops
and jobs.  Because of this, you will see, IMHO, better articles in the tech
section of this FAQ by me than in the riding section.  

I should, however, list my biases about some topics.  I ride without a 
suspension fork.  I ride without an expensive bike (relatively speaking). 
I ride with top mount shifters and discontinued parts.  I might not have 
the latest info on products since I can never afford them, but I try to 
gain as much info as possible by reading, testing, and listening to others.
Remember that this FAQ is not a product review.  I try not to list any
specific products if I can, however, sometimes it is impossible to do 
without.  Please do not get offended if you are wishing for something 
different.

This FAQ is not very complete.  If you see a topic that you think should be
covered in this FAQ, please cross-check the rec.bicycles.* FAQ to make sure
that it's not covered there.  If the article has never been covered, I will
try to get enough articles together to publish a FAQ section for it.
My e-mail address is: vccheng@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca  Please include the 
words--"FAQ" on your message.  e.g. "FAQ--*** info".  I have received
complaints about not replying to some mail, but please be understanding.  I
get over 200 e-mails a day from various people/groups/lists.  It is very hard 
for me to fish out the FAQ mails without this "FAQ" subject heading.

Before I end this, I would like to thank Mike Iglesias
(iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu) for helping me with the new text format of 
this FAQ.  He is the maintainer of the rec.bicycles.* FAQ and he has 
agreed to lend me his wonderful format for me to use.  Thanks Mike, I owe 
you one!  And to Brian Adams (adams@cs.unr.edu), who edited my FAQ 
so that it is actually somewhat understandable.  I would also like to thanks 
all you folks out there in cyberspace who have commented on the FAQ.
I would especially like to thank the people on the mtb-mailing list 
(mtb@cycling.org, for subcribing info, please  see http://www.cycling.org
and look under mailing lists.  read on for more info)  The people on the 
list are very helpful to my "quest" for a better FAQ.

Well...that's all.

Have fun and ride hard.

------------------------------

Subject: 1C.  How to get this FAQ

Obviously, if you are reading this, you are getting this FAQ.  But if you 
would like to receive this FAQ in another format, you can get it by:

a) e-mail
E-mail me with the subject "Give me FAQ" and I will e-mail you a copy as 
soon as I get to it.  I have no robots for this job, so it's all manual.

b) www
I have put this FAQ on my homepage on 
    http://gpu.srv.ualberta.ca/~vccheng/
or 
    http://www.ualberta.ca/~vccheng/
or
    http://www.srv.ualberta.ca/~vccheng/
All three servers are mirrors of each other, but sometimes one is faster 
than the other.  

c) newsgroup
I will try to post this FAQ once every month on rec.bicycles.off-road, 
and alt.mountain-bike.  Just got approved, and the FAQ should be posted 
also in rec.answers, news.anwers and alt.answers.

d) ftp
Again, I would like to thank big Mike over at the rec.bicycles.* FAQ for 
providing me a space on his server for this FAQ.
ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/mtb.faq
and also, for you European readers, Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes of
Norway has setup a ftp site at:
ftp://ftp.unit.no/local/biking/mtb.faq.txt
this might provide faster service for you.  BTW, thanks Joern.

------------------------------

Subject:   1D.  IMBA Rules of the Trail

International Mountain Bicycling Association has set up a list of rules
that mountain bikers should follow.  Please respect these rules as they
are what many mountain bikers live by.  

 IMBA Rules of the Trail
 
   1. Ride on open trails only.  Respect trail and road closures (ask
      if not sure), avoid possible trespass on private land, obtain
      permits and authorizations as may be required.  Federal and
      State wilderness areas are closed to cycling.
   2. Leave no trace. Be sensitive to the dirt beneath you.  Even on
      open trails, you should not ride under conditions where you
      will leave evidence of your passing, such as on certain soils
      shortly after a rain.  Observe the different types of soils and
      trail construction; practice low-impact cycling.  This also
      means staying on the trail and not creating any new ones.  Be
      sure to pack out at least as much as you pack in.
   3. Control your bicycle!  Inattention for even a second can cause
      problems.  Obey all speed laws.
   4. Always yield the trail.  Make known your approach well in
      advance.  A friendly greeting (or a bell) is considerate and
      works well; don't startle others.  Show your respect when
      passing others by slowing to a walk or even stopping.
      Anticipate that other trail users may be around corners or in
      blind spots.
   5. Never spook animals.  All animals are startled by an unannounced      
      approach, a sudden movement, or a loud noise.  This can be
      dangerous for you, for others, and for the animals.  Give
      animals extra room and time to adjust to you.  In passing, use
      special care and follow the directions of the horseback riders
      (ask if uncertain).  Running cattle and disturbing wild animals
      is a serious offense.  Leave gates as you found them, or as
      marked.
   6. Plan ahead.  Know your equipment, your ability, and the area in
      which you are riding - and prepare accordingly.  Be
      self-sufficient at all times.  Wear a helmet, keep your machine
      in good condition, and carry necessary supplies for changes in
      weather or other conditions.  A well-executed trip is a
      satisfaction to you and not a burden or offense to others.

------------------------------

Subject: 1E.  Disclamier

------------------------------

The content of this FAQ is given out as reference material only.  Specific
component design and mechanical procedure and the qualification of 
individual readers are beyond the control of the authors.  Therefore, the
authors disclaim all liability for use of the information given in this
FAQ.  All risk for its use is entirely assumed by the user.  In no event 
will the authors be held liable for personal injuries or any other damages.

------------------------------

Subject: 2.  Riding Skills

------------------------------

Subject: 2A.  Basic riding position

-Elbows relaxed, bend at about 90 degrees.
-Grip the bar firmly, but not too hard.  If you see white knuckles, then 
 you are gripping too tight.
-Keep your back straight, at about 45 degrees from the ground surface.
-Try to "stand" on the pedals.  You still sit on the seat, but you 
 don't place all your weight on it.  
-When not pedalling, always keep your pedals level.

 Others added:
 dmerson@ksu.ksu.edu
-You may want to add that your grips should be about shoulder length apart,
 but that would only really affect small/large people.
-You could mention that you can (or may have to) ride with pedals vertical
 (&/or with one foot loose) in tight turns.

------------------------------

Subject: 2B.  Turning

-Brake before going into the turn, using both brakes.

If you have a lot of traction:
-Push the outside foot down and lean to the inside (if you have traction).
-Enter the corner wide, hit the apex with the bike near the inside edge 
 and leave the corner wide.
-Do not use the front brake if you are turning at the bike's limit.  The 
 front tire is using all its traction for turning.  If you use your front 
 brake, it will lose its grip and wash out.  A front wheel slide is almost 
 impossible to recover.  A back end slide is easier to recover.  Also, the 
 brake tire is doing less work than the front, therefore, you can use some 
 of its "spare" traction for braking.

If you are turning on loose surfaces, keep this in mind:
-This technique involves keeping the bike relatively upright; instead, the
 body is leaned in the direction of the turn.
-Transfer weight slightly forward.  Push down on the outside pedal.
-Twist your upper body to face the trail.  Align your upper body so 
 that your upper body is slightly leaning toward the inside of the turn. 
-Push down on handlebar on the outside and pull up on the inside.

Others have pointed out:
Dave Blake [dblake@eureka.wbme.jhu.edu]
In loose stuff, steering is definitely the preferred way to turn.  This
is the reason many roadies with good bike skills cannot handle
tight singletrack very well. 

To steer, put your weight on the inside of the turn.  Turn your front wheel 
toward the turn, and hold your bike upright.  Even if one or both of your
wheels begin to skid you can easily recover.  In contrast, if you lean hard
through a turn on loose material and either wheel loses traction, you will 
be picking gravel out of your leg.

You almost always want your weight centered between your wheels.
This means you move your butt further back as the terrain gets
steeper.  Learn to feather your front brake.  Let off on the brake
when your wheel hits an obstacle, and hit it harder when you have
a smooth even braking surface.  Many people do not learn to feather the
brake, so they put their weight too far towards the rear to keep from
endoing.  This rear weight shift results in too little weight being placed
on the front wheel, so that you cannot easily steer.

lrtredwa@rdyne.rockwell.com
I find that the most consistent mistake that I make when turning on 
downhills is to shift too much weight to the rear.  This causes the 
front wheel to become too light causing it to wash out :-(  If my 
weight is more evenly distributed on the bike, I find that I am also 
in a position to recover if the front starts to wash out (if I'm not 
going too fast) although it is not often I can reover from a front wheel 
washout.  

John Stevenson [johnstev@world.net]
Look at the inside of the turn, not the outside.  Your body tends to
subconsciously point in the same direction as your eyes, so this keeps you
focused on staying tight in the curve, not straying to the outer edge.

Blaine Bauer [bbauer@cisco.com]
One thing that I've learned through hard knocks is sharp turning -
especially in loose soil. We have some trails that constantly wind through
the woods, and have little room on each side (re: trees).

I've found that negotiating sharp turns at some reasonable speed is easier
when the seat is an inch or so lower than normal. The trick is to lean the
bike (but not the rider). This is really just a variation of normal turning.

- Point the inside leg in the direction of the turn (knee away from the
frame), putting all weight on the outside pedal.
- Push down on the inside handlebar. At this point almost all weight 
should be distributed between the inside grip and the outside pedal. This 
is much easier with a rigid fork - with a suspension fork, you really 
have to bear down on the handlebar (a grunt may be required!).
- At this point the bike is leaning under the rider, with the seat 
anywhere from under the thigh to just under the knee. The rider's 
weight is centered over the point where the two wheels are in contact with 
the ground, so there isn't a  washout problem even in loose conditions.

This method will feel very uncomfortable at first. Pushing the handlebars
away from oneself is...well, disquieting. The best way to practice this is
to do figure-8 turns in a driveway. When you've got it down, hose down the
driveway and then try it. If you can make sharp turns on wet concrete you
can do it in loose soil.

------------------------------

Subject: 2C.  Braking

-Most of the braking power is in the front brake because when you apply 
 the brake, your weight shifts forward and that gives the front wheel more 
 traction.
-To maximize braking power, shift your weight back when braking.  
-In loose terrain, use more back brake than the front.  The front has 
 less traction because it is being "plowed".
-In very steep downhill, move your weight way back, almost sitting right 
 on the back tire.  

From: vccheng@gpu5.srv.ualberta.ca (Vincent Cheng)

-A skidding tire will give you no control.  Therefore, skidding is a 
 very bad practice.
-There are situation where you don't want to brake
    -Never brake when flying.  If you are flying in the air (off a 
     jump, drop off, ruts), do not touch the front brake.  If you land 
     with your front tire stopped, you can expect a huge endo.
    -Don't use the front brake in curves (read turning).
    -When going down hill, don't keep the brakes on.  Instead, 
     feather the brakes.

Others have added:
rdexter@xylan.com (Robert Dexter)
You might also add that the momentum of the spinning wheel can cause the bike
to pitch if the wheel is stopped by the brakes.
Bill Rod [smts!brod@msss.attmail.com]           
I don't agree completely.  I think this will induce skidding.  The front 
brake is the best tool for slowing down under any circumstances.  This 
excludes an induced skid in a turn during a race.  I do agree that a 
little more pressure should be exerted on the rear brake tho'.

------------------------------

Subject: 2D.  Shifting

-You must pedal in order to change gears.  When changing gear, pedal 
 lightly.  It will save your drivetrain from wear and tear.
-If you have "numbers" on your shifter, don't use them.  Instead, 
 calculate the gear inches and use that as your shifting guide.  You 
 should be able to locate a program for this from the rec.bicycle.* FAQ.
-Shift before you think you have to, e.g. climbing.  When you have to 
 shift, it might be too late.
-Do not cross your gears, it will kill it.  This means that you do not 
 run a big chain ring with the large cog or the small chain ring with the 
 small cog.
-Shift lightly on the levers.  There is no reason why you need to press 
 the shifters real hard to shift.
-To save the drive train from wear and tear, make sure it is clean and 
 well lubed.

Some added:
Graham Barnes [barnesg@tierfon.hao.ucar.edu]
I agree about not using the "numbers", but I'm not so sure that calculating 
gear inches is worthwhile.  I've been mtbing for ]5 years, and I've never 
bothered to work out the gear inches for any of the bikes I've ridden, except 
when I was thinking about changing cassettes.  Maybe I'm missing 
something, but I always went with the philosophy that, if it's hard to 
pedal, shift down, and if I'm spinning madly, shift up. 

John Stevenson [johnstev@world.net]
It's very unlikely that anything but water and crud are major factors in
wear of MTB drivetrains.  Sure, in theory careful shifting and avoiding
extreme gear ratios will prolong drivetrain life, but in practice I suspect
that the damage prevented by these practices is insignificant.

[in regard to gear numbers]
I go along with Graham here.  A better reason for avoiding use of those
silly shifter windows is that if you're looking at them, you're not looking
at the trail, which is where your eyes *should* be.

[in regard to shifting before you have to]
I think this can be better expressed:
Shift before you have to.  For example, when you're climbing, shift into a
very low gear as you approach and start the climb.  If you wait until you
are about to stall it may be too late to shift.

------------------------------

Subject: 2E.  Uphills

-Shift before you hit the climb.  The only way to know which gear is best 
 for your terrain is from practice.  It is very hard on your drivetrain if 
 you shift in the middle of your climb.
-Seated is better for long distance and/or loose conditions.  Standing
 is good for hammering up a short steep section with good traction.
-If you find you are in too easy a gear, upshift once in the back.  Do 
 not dump a bunch of gear at once.

Seated Climbing:
-If you are going to stay seated, move slightly forward on the saddle.
-Move your head close to the stem to keep the front from coming up.
-Don't pull up on the handlebar, instead, pull backward with every stroke.  
-Keep your body relaxed, and shoulders square to the trail.
-Put the bike in a low gear and spin.

Standing Climbing:
-If you decide to stand up, put the bike in a higher gear.  You can't 
 spin as fast, but you can apply more power per stroke.
-Crouch down so that your butt is right in front of the saddle.  Your 
 elbows should be bent and the chest should be just above the stem.

-For both methods, try to look for the smoothest line and look for slight 
 dips on the climb.  These will offer you a great opportunity to rest for 
 a bit.

Others added:
Bill Rod [smts!brod@msss.attmail.com]           
I agree in general, but IMHO I would recommend using the middle or big ring 
when standing.  I've found standing while using the granny gear causes 
overtorqueing (sic) and hence wheelspin. 
Medek@aol.com
On longer climbs, alternate the position (standing, sitting) for a short
period of time.  Each position uses a different set of muscles and altering
the position will give you an opportunity to rest different muscle groups.

John Stevenson [johnstev@world.net]
Tim Gould's maxim always seems relevant here: "Start easy, finish hard".  In
other words, start a climb in the very lowest gear you have, and shift up
as you get comfortable.  That way you can gauge your fitness and the
severity of the slope, rather than getting commited to trying to stomp up a
1km 20 per cent grade in 36/28.

Long climbs, particularly at high altitude, are places where a stupidly low
gear will come in useful.  I'm talking 20/28 *or lower* here.  Here's the
scenario: you're happily plodding uphill in, say, the 22/28 that is now a
typical low gear on a Shimano equipped bike.  You come to a slightly steeper
technical section that requires an increase in your effort level.  You power
over the problem, sending your heart hammering into the upper end of your
anaerobic range.  What you could really do with now is an even lower gear to
allow you to recover, but the idiots who spec most off-the-peg bikes don't
seem to realise this=8A IMNAAHO 20/28 is the maximum sensible bottom gear 
for a mountain bike that is used in real mountains, and I know people who
have gone to the current technical limit, 20/32.

Brian Adams [adams@cs.unr.edu]
-Pull your elbows in on very steep, slow climbs.  It helps to keep your front
 wheel from wandering.

Tom Hewitt [hewitt@crayalb.cray.com]
  I'm 44years old, and while slower than most riders, can usually clean hills
that younger riders more fit don't. In my case the key for climbing really
nasty long technical hills, is to practice going as slow as practical on those
sections of lessor technical difficulty. This conserves energy for the
difficult sections, where all-out effort is required. In addition
balance in an extreme climbing situation is different from balance in
a level ground situation, and can only be learned by spending lots of time
fighting to keep your balance.

------------------------------

Subject: 2F.  Downhills

-Keep your pedals level (3 and 9 o'clock)
-Get your weight back.  The steeper it is, the more you move your 
 weight.  It is not uncommon to see someone riding down a hill almost 
 sitting on their back tire.
-Think positive.  I had the problem of thinking I'm always out of 
 control, but in reality, I'm not even riding close to my limits.
-Shift to the middle/large chain rings.  This will increase tension on 
 the chain and you won't have so much chain slap.
-Brake with mostly your rear brake.  You will still need to use your 
 front, but the back is used more often and harder.  
-Braking the wheel until it almost stops spinning is good.  Skidding is bad.
-Steer with your shoulders perpendicular to the path you want to move.
-Sometimes if you can't ride down some section because it's too bumpy, you
 might want to add some speed.

Others have also said:
Dave Blake [dblake@eureka.wbme.jhu.edu]
NO NO NO ! ! !.  Your front brake always has more power than your back.
Endoing is not a real problem if you learn to modulate your front brake
with the terrain.  Less brake over obstacles, and more brake when the
braking surface is smooth and clean.

lrtredwa@rdyne.rockwell.com
Always be looking for your line.  Identify those spots in the descent where
it flattens out a little, allowing you to brake harder and "get it back".
This gives you the ability to "let it go" in the more difficult parts for
control because your line will take you to the part where you can "get it
back." 

Brian Adams [adams@cs.unr.edu]
-On long descents, consider temporarily lowering the saddle, making it easier
 to get your butt low (or behind the seat) on steep sections.

------------------------------

Subject: 2G.  Front wheel wheelie

-Practice on level ground with no obstacles.
-Sit down and have weight slightly forward.
-Shift to a low gear.  
-Push down hard on the pedal and shift your body weight back and pull 
 hard on the handlebar.
-Spread your knees out and try to keep your weight back.  Keep pedaling.
-If you feel you are going to far back, touch the back brake and you will 
 fall back down.

Some added:

toadhall@echo-on.net (SLEW)
The trick to performing the front wheel wheelie is in finding the balance
point where you are able to ride on one wheel, and you have pulled back too
far and will land on your butt.  One way to find this threshold point is to
literally pull back TOO far...and don't worry you won't land on your butt.
Just make sure your feet are out of all manner of locking devices (toe
clips, clipless pedals, et al), and when you are ready to do the wheelie,
pull back as far as you can until you literally fall out of the bicycle...be
prepared to put your feet down so you don't hurt yourself, and instead just
run with bike still holding onto the handlebars.  It might help to lower the
seat a bit so the bike can slip through the legs.  One of the hardest things
to do when starting out doing the wheelie is overcoming the fear that you
will pull too far back.  The best way to overcome this is to pull too far
back then CATCH YOURSELF, then you will have a better idea of where that
threshold point is where you can balance and ride.

------------------------------

Subject: 2H.  Small Logs

-Pop a front wheelie and land so that your front tire clears the log.
-Quickly level the pedals and shift your weight forward.
-Your back wheel should roll right over the log.

------------------------------

Subject: 2I.  Logs about 1' to 2'

-Pop a front wheelie and land the large chain ring on the log.
-You should land with the power foot forward, about 70 degrees.
-Shift your weight forward and pedal.  Not too far, or you might crash.

For both H) and I), some added:
Bill Rod [smts!brod@msss.attmail.com]           
I think you should add "When clearing/climbing logs of any size, momentum is 
critical.  This is what gives you the oomph to get over an object"

Dave Blake [dblake@eureka.wbme.jhu.edu]
-Do a front wheelie.
-Land your front tire squarely on the offending log.
-At the same time, move your weight forward and crouch down.
-When the tire hits the log, jump forward and throw your handlebars
 forward and down.  You jump off your front wheel mainly, but the back
 as well.
-Your chainring should clear the log, and your front wheel should land
 on the ground as your rear hits the log.  As long as your chainring clears
 the log you will have no problem landing if you go too far forward or
 too far back.
-Practice on small logs first - this skill does not happen overnight.
-Author's blab:
    -before trying this technique, please read the disclaimer!

------------------------------

Subject: 2J.  Bunny hopping

Two ways to do this:
The real way:
-Level the pedals
-Compress your body down and also the tires by pushing down and bending 
 your knees and arms.
-When you want to take off, pull the handlebar to your chest and move 
 your weight back.  This will give you a small wheelie.
-When you are going up, push the bar up and forward, twisting the grip 
 at the same time.  While you are doing this, unweight the back end of the 
 bike by leaning forward and really extend your arms.  The saddle might
 hit your chest, but that's ok.
-Relax your body before hitting the ground.
-Land with some weight in the back so that the back wheel hits the ground 
 first.  Make sure your front wheel is straight before you land.

The SPD/toe-clip way:
-Again, preload your body by coiling down and pressing real hard down.
-Instead of doing all the weight shifting, just jump and yank up real hard.  
-Landing is the same.

------------------------------

Subject: 2K.  Water riding

-Never ride into something that you can't see the bottom of.
-If there are not too many obstacles, you can ride through the water as 
 usual.
-Instead of cranking in a high gear, try spinning in a low gear if the 
 water is too deep. 
-If the water is real deep, try ratcheting your pedals by doing quarter 
 pedal strokes. 
-Brakes will be much less effective when wet, so watch out.
-Water can get into bearings and damage them.  So don't ride things that 
 are too deep (anything higher than your bottom bracket is considered  
 deep by most people).
-After riding through the water, pulse both brakes a few times to scrub 
 off the water.

------------------------------

Subject: 2L.  Mud riding

-If it's just a puddle, ride in the center of it to minimize the amount 
 of trail damage.
-If it's deep and wet, spin in a low gear and keep seated so that your 
 back end doesn't spin out.
-Try to put less weight in the front.  The front tire might plow into the 
 mud, causing you to endo.
-Pulse both brakes after going through the mud to scrub off the mud.
-Mud, much like water, can do a lot of damage to your bike, so be 
 careful.  Also, it tends to wear out the brake pads very quickly.

Other riders also added:
[rokslyde@sowebo.charm.net]
Try going though thick mud fast, you will sort of "hydroplain" across it 
which leaves less goop in your brakes and gears, this also has the 
added advantage of getting through it quicker.

Dave Blake [dblake@eureka.wbme.jhu.edu]
Do not ride through mud if you have another option - the trails should
come first, except in races.  You cannot overemphasize the importance
of maintaining the trails properly in this day of trail closures.

Brian Adams [adams@cs.unr.edu]
-I've had mud gob onto the rear derailleur; the chain then grabbed it and
 twisted it into junk.

------------------------------

Subject: 2M.  Loose Stuff

We don't get too much sand/gravel here in Edmonton, so I turn to friends on 
the mtb mailing list for help:

Peter Greaves [greaves@ccmail.ram.co.uk]
Look out for the sand taking the front wheel away from your line.  
Weight slightly forward to keep the steering line straight.  Look out 
for hitting this stuff too fast and burying the front wheel - instant 

From: vccheng@gpu5.srv.ualberta.ca (Vincent Cheng)

faceplant.  Really sandy trails can tire you really fast - they are 
easier in damp than dry conditions.
Riding in sand is much like riding in mud or snow.

Doug van Houten (?):
Keep the front end light and grind away with low gearing.
If the front end is to heavy, the front tire will sink and you will endo.
Good places for riding in sand are on lake beaches, river shores, or sand
volleyball pits.
In Wyoming, we don't have too much sand either, but do have enough so
I know how to ride it.

[rokslyde@sowebo.charm.net]
Sand is a very difficult substance to ride on.  Once you get started 
it is best not to stop.  Turning on sand is no easy trick.  Take the 
turn VERY gradually and do NOT lean.  Leaning will simply make you 
fall over.  Turning sharp doesn't work either, your front tire will 
simply plow the sand until you stop (or fall).

Sand has the same effect as sandpaper on bikes.  It grinds and wears 
parts very quickly.  Do not ride a bike you like on the beach.

J. Wesley Prince [wesprince@csra.net] 
I have many hours of experience in the infamous Moab sand pits and have read
a few mag articles on the subject.

Sand Riding:
1. The bigger the meat (tire carcass) the better the ride when it comes to
sand. 
2. Have a positive attitude (helps in all technical scenarios).
3. Carry as much momentum (speed) into the pit as possible.  Try to maintain
this momentum as best you can.
4. Shift down a gear or 2 to prevent bog down.  It generally doesn't help to
stand.
5. Get the weight on the back wheel and let the front tire float a bit.
6. DO NOT attempt to hold a straight line by steering.  The front wheel will
only dig in and bury you.  Allow the front wheel to drift around a bit.  Keep
a light touch on the steering.  If you are starting to worry about your line,
you can try a combo of light steering and weight shifting (one side or the
other) to correct.  Sometimes you will start to drift way off line and will
need to steer to stay on the path.  Try to start early and maintain a smooth
arc.  A quick move will likely fail.
