Subject: Rec.Bicycles Frequently Asked Questions Posting  Part 1/5
Supersedes: <rec-bicycles-faq-1_960223@draco.acs.uci.edu>
Date: 25 Mar 1996 05:37:45 GMT


Last modified: March 24, 1996

------------------------------

Subject: 1  Introduction

Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting Information

The following monthly posting contains the answers to frequently asked
questions posed to rec.bicycles and interesting information that cyclists
might find useful.  Some of the answers are from postings to rec.bicycles,
and and some are condensed from postings.  Answers include the name and
email address of the author.  If no author is listed, I'm the guilty party.
If you're the author and I've misspelled your name or have the wrong email
address, let me know and I'll fix it. 

****NOTE****: I am not the moderator or "person in charge" of the
rec.bicycles newsgroups.  I also have no way to help you with problems
reading the newsgroups unless you are at UCI; you'll need to talk to your
system or news admin for help. 

If you have something you feel should be included in the FAQ, please write
it up and send it to me at the address below. 

Note: I don't read each and every posting to rec.bicycles.*, so suggesting
that something be included in the FAQ may not be seen.  If you want
something included, summarize the discussion and send me the summary. 

This FAQ is posted to rec.bicycles.misc, news.answers, and rec.answers
around the 15th of the month.  It is also available via anonymous ftp from:

   <ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/faq.*>
   <ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.bicycles.misc/>
   <ftp://ugle.unit.no/local/biking/faq*>

Check the "Archives" section for information on how to obtain the FAQ via
email.


Mike Iglesias
iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu


------------------------------

Subject: 2  Index

(! means updated since last FAQ.  + means new section.)

  1  Introduction

  2  Index

  3  Administrivia
     3.1  Abbreviations
     3.2  Gopher and World Wide Web access
     3.3  Archives
     3.4  Posting Guidelines
     3.5  Electronic Mailing lists

  4  Rides
     4.1  Maps
     4.2  Touring supplies
     4.3  Taking a bike on Amtrak
+    4.4  Travel with bicycles - Air/Rail/Other

  5  Racing
     5.1  Tour de France Jerseys
     5.2  Major Tour Winners 1947-1990
     5.3  Rating the Tour de France Climbs
     5.4  How to follow the Tour de France

  6  Social
     6.1  Bicycling in America
     6.2  League of American Bicyclists
     6.3  Rules for trail riding
     6.4  Commuting - Is it possible for me to commute by bike?
     6.5  Commuting - How do I choose a route?
     6.6  Commuting - Do I really need to look that goofy?
     6.7  Commuting - Do cyclists breathe more pollution than motorists?

  7  Marketplace
     7.1  Marketplace hints/guidelines
     7.2  Bike Trailers
     7.3  One Less Car T-Shirts
     7.4  Panniers and Racks
     7.5  Clothing materials
     7.6  Seats
     7.7  Women's Saddles
     7.8  Women's Bikes
!    7.9  Bike Rentals
     7.10  Bike Lockers
     7.11  Bike computer features
     7.12  Recumbent Bike Info
     7.13  Buying a Bike
     7.14  Kids Bike Clothes

  8  Tech
     8.1  Technical Support Numbers
     8.2  Ball Bearing Grades
     8.3  SIS Cable Info
     8.4  Milk Jug Mud Flaps
     8.5  Lubricating Chains
     8.6  Wear and Gear Slippage
     8.7  Adjusting Chain Length
     8.8  Hyperglide chains
     8.9  Bottom Bracket Info  
     8.10  Crank noises
     8.11  Cracking/Breaking Cranks
     8.12  Biopace chainrings
     8.13  Snakebite flats
     8.14  Blown Tubes
     8.15  Mounting Tires
     8.16  More Flats on Rear Tires
     8.17  What holds the rim off the ground?
     8.18  Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims
     8.19  Reusing Spokes
     8.20  Clinchers vs. Tubulars
     8.21  Presta Valve Nuts
     8.22  Ideal Tire Sizes
     8.23  Indexed Steering
     8.24  Center Pivot vs. Dual Pivot Brakes
     8.25  Seat adjustments
     8.26  Cleat adjustments
     8.27  SIS Adjustment Procedure
     8.28  Where to buy tools
     8.29  Workstands
     8.30  Workstands 2
     8.31  Frame Stiffness
     8.32  Frame materials
     8.33  Bike pulls to one side
     8.34  Frame repair
     8.35  Frame Fatigue
     8.36  Weight = Speed?
     8.37  Adjusting SPD Cleats
     8.38  Rim Tape Summary
     8.39  STI/Ergo Summary
     8.40  Roller Head Bearings
     8.41  Tubular Tire Repair
     8.42  Cassette or Freewheel Hubs
     8.43  Cassette or Freewheel Hubs take 2
     8.44  "Sealed" Bearings
!    8.45  Installing Cranks
     8.46  Stress Relieving Spokes
     8.47  Traffic detector loops
     8.48  Gluing Sew-up Tires
     8.49  Common Torque Values
     8.50  Measuring the circumference of wheels
     8.51  Tubular Fables
     8.52  Folding a Tubular Tire
     8.53  Frames "going soft"
     8.54  Inspecting your bike for potential failures
     8.55  ETRTO numbers for tire sizes
     8.56  Using a Quick Release
     8.57  Tube and Tire Casing Repair
     8.58  The Continuously Variable Transmission
+    8.59  Patching Tubes

  9  Misc
     9.1  Books and Magazines
     9.2  Mail Order Addresses
     9.3  Road Gradient Units
     9.4  Helmets
     9.5  Terminology
     9.6  Avoiding Dogs
     9.7  Shaving Your Legs
     9.8  Contact Lenses and Cycling
     9.9  How to deal with your clothes
     9.10  Pete's Winter Cycling Tips
     9.11  Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips
     9.12  Studded Tires
     9.13  Cycling Myths
     9.14  Descending I
     9.15  Descending II
     9.16  Trackstands
     9.17  Front Brake Usage
     9.18  Slope Wind, the Invisible Enemy
     9.19  Reflective Tape
     9.20  Nutrition
     9.21  Nuclear Free Energy Bar Recipe
     9.22  Powerbars Recipe
     9.23  Calories burned by cycling
     9.24  Road Rash Cures
     9.25  Knee problems
     9.26  Cycling Psychology
     9.27  Mirrors
     9.28  Another Powerbar recipe
     9.29  Lower back pain
     9.30  Saddle sores
     9.31  Group Riding Tips

  10  Off-Road
     10.1  Suspension Stems
     10.2  MTB FAQ available

------------------------------

Subject: 3  Administrivia

------------------------------

Subject: 3.1  Abbreviations

Some common abbreviations used here and in rec.bicycles.*:

  FAQ  Frequenly Asked Question.  What you are reading now is a file
       containing answers to some FAQs.

  IMHO  In my humble opinion.

  TIOOYK  There Is Only One You Know.  Refers to the Tour de France.

See the glossary in the ftp archives for more bicycle-related terms.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.2  Gopher and World Wide Web access

I've made the rec.bicycles ftp archives available via gopher and the Web,
and have split the FAQ up into individual files for easier access via
gopher.   The FAQ is available via the Web from Ohio State as listed below.

You can access the FAQ and archives via the Web using these URLs:

   <http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/>
   <http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/bicycles-faq/top.html>

Thanks to the folks at Ohio State for their USENET FAQ Web service!

To connect to the gopher server, use the hostname draco.acs.uci.edu and
port 1071.  Please don't ask me how to use gopher or how to configure
your gopher client; I don't know how to use all the available gopher
clients, nor do I have access to them.  Please talk to your local gopher
gurus.

Again, please ask your local gurus for information on how to use Web
clients.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.3  Archives

I've made available via anonymous ftp a copy of the current FAQ and a
few other items on draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12).  This is the
workstation on my desk, so I'd appreciate it if people would restrict
their use to 7pm-7am Pacific time.  The files are in pub/rec.bicycles.

For those without Internet access, you can use the ftpmail server at
gatekeeper.dec.com to get copies of items in the archives.  I really don't
have time to email copies of files to people who can't get at them easily.
To use the ftpmail server, send an email message containing the line

help

in the body of the message to ftpmail@gatekeeper.dec.com.  You'll get
a help file back with more information on how to use the ftpmail server. 

Here is an example of what to put in the body of a message to to get the
README file:

connect draco.acs.uci.edu
chdir pub/rec.bicycles
get README

                README for Rec.Bicycles Anonymous FTP area

arnie.light.Arnie Berger's (arnie.berger@amd.com) "Ultimate bike light"

bike_gear.sea.hqx
..Lawrence Hare's (ldh@duck.svl.cdc.com) copy of a
..Hypercard stack to calculate gearing.  Lawrence says
..there is a newer version on major bbs systems.

bike.lockers.David H. Wolfskill's (david@dhw68k.cts.com) summary of
..bike locker vendors.

bike.painting   Sam Henry's (shenry@rice.edu) collection of articles on
..how to paint a bike.

bike_power.*    Ken Roberts program to calculate power output and power
..consumption.  See bike_power.doc for more info.
..updated by Mark Grennan (markg@okcforum.oknorm.edu)

biking_log.*.Phil Etheridge's (phil@massey.ac.nz) hypercard stack
..riding diary.  It keeps track of dates, distance, time,
..average speed, etc., and keeps running weekly, monthly,
..and yearly totals.  See biking_log.read_me for more
                information.


CA-veh-code.A directory containing the California vehicle code sections
..that pertain to bicycles and gopher bookmarks.  See the 
..README in that directory for more information.

camera.tour.Vivian Aldridge's (viviana@tamri.com) collection of articles
..on cameras to take on a bike tour.

competitive.nutrition
..Roger Marquis' (marquis@well.uucp) article from the
..Feb 91 Velo News on nutrition and cycling.

computer.calibrate
computer.install
..Sheldon Brown's (CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com) universal bike 
..computer calibration chart and installation suggestions.

cyclesense.Larry Watanabe's (watanabe@asimov.cs.uiuc.edu) copy of
..the "Cycle Sense for Motorists" ready to run thru LaTeX.

faq.*..The current Frequently Asked Questions posting

first.century.Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) tips on training
..for your first century ride.

frame.build.Terry Zmrhal's (terryz@microsoft.com) writeup of
..a frame building class he took.

gear.c..Larry Watanabe's (watanabe@asimov.cs.uiuc.edu) program to
..print gear inch tables.

glossary.Alan Bloom's (alanb@sr.hp.com) glossary of bicycle terms.

lab.info.Erin O'Brien's (bikeleague@aol.com) article on the 
..League of American Bicyclists.

lights..Tom Reingold's (tr@samadams.princeton.edu) collection of 
..articles on bike lights.

lights2..More articles from rec.bicycles.* on lights.

mtb.faq..Vince Cheng's (vccheng@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca) MTB FAQ.

pam.bmb*.Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) report on her 
..Boston-Montreal-Boston rides.

pam.pactour*.Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) writeup of her PAC tours
..across the country.

pbp.info.Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) information 
..on her Paris-Brest-Paris ride.

pictures.Bicycling gif pictures.

prof.sched.Roland Stahl's (stahl@ipi.uni-hannover.de) list of 
..scheduled professional races in many countries.

pwm.regulator   Willie Hunt's (willie@cs.indiana.edu) design notes
                on a pulse width modulated voltage regulator.  Originally
                designed for caving, this design is adaptable to bike
                lighting.  The author has parts available in kit form.

ride.index.Chris Hull's/Bill Bushnell's (bushnell@lmsc.lockheed.com)
..explanation of a way to "index" rides and compare the 
..difficulty of different rides.

ridelg22.*.Found on AOL by Gary Thurman (thurmag@csos.orst.edu), a
..ride diary program.  The .exe file a self-extracting archive 
..for PCs.

spike.bike.Bob Fishell's (spike@cbnewsd.att.com) Spike Bike series.  
..They are numbered in the order that Bob posted them to
..rec.bicycles.  All the Spike Bike stories are 
.."Copyright 1989 by Robert Fishell, all rights reserved."

spokelen11.bas.Roger Marquis' (marquis@well.uucp) spoke length 
..calculator, written in Microsoft Quickbasic.

spokelen.c.Andy Tucker's (tucker@Neon.Stanford.EDU) port of 
..Roger Marquis' spokelen11.bas to C.

spokelen.hqx.Eric Topp's topp@roses.stanford.edu's Hypercard stack that 
..computes spoke lengths.

studded.tires.(Name removed by request) compilation
..of messages on studded tires, including how to make your
..own.

tandem.boxes.Arnie Berger's (arnie.berger@amd.com) notes on how
..he built a box to transport his tandem to Europe and
..back.  It's taken from a longer travelogue on his trip - if
..you want more information, contact him at the above
..address.

tech.supp.phone Joshua Putnam's (josh@Happy-Man.com) list of technical
..support numbers for various manufacturers.  This list
..used to be in the FAQ but now is too long to include there.

trailers.A summary posting of messages about bike trailers.  Good
..stuff if you're thinking of buying a trailer.

wheelbuild.txt.Sheldon Brown's (CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com) instructions on 
..how to build a wheel.

wheels.*.hqx    R. Scott Truesdell's (truesdel@ics.uci.edu) Hypercard
..stack to calculate spoke lengths.  See wheels.readme
..for more info.

wintertips.Pete Hickey's (pete@panda1.uottawa.ca) notes about
..how to cycle in the winter.

wintertips.pam  Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) winter cycling tips.


Files available via anonymous ftp from ugle.unit.no (129.241.1.97) in the
directory local/biking. This directory is maintained by Joern Dahl-Stamnes
(dahls@fysel.unit.no).

Last updated: July 3rd, 1994.

File..What

READ.ME..Information about the other files in the directory.

bm106a.zip.The latest version of Bike Manager. Bike Manager is a
..shareware program that help you keep a log of your training
..activities. It can report summary reports,  weekly reports,
..monthly reports and yearly reports. Features to analyze your
..activities against your goals. And more...

brake.doc.About how to make your own brake booster.

gtos91.doc.A story from The Great Trial of Strength 1991.

gtos92.doc.Same, but for the 1992 trial.

gtos93.doc.For the 1993 trial.

toj93.doc.The Tour of Jotunheimen 1993 report.

faq.*..Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and
..Interesting  Information (ASCII text format).


velo.txt.Description about Velocipede (TM) for Windows.

velo*.zip.Velocipede (TM) for Windows. Velocipede is a window based
..training log program based on the ideas in Bike Manager.
..Compared to Bike Manager, Velocipede offers a better user
..interface, graphic presentation and more. For more details,
..see file velo.txt.
..Velocipede is a shareware program.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.4  Posting Guidelines

The rec.bicycles subgroups are described below - please try to post your
article to the appropriate group.  The newsgroups were designed to minimize
cross posting, so please take the time to think about the most appropriate
newsgroup and post your article there.  Most postings to rec.bicycles should
not be cross-posted to groups outside of rec.*.

rec.bicycles: DO NOT USE THIS NEWSGROUP - it should have been dropped
   from news servers, having been replaced by rec.bicycles.misc.

rec.bicycles.marketplace: Bicycles, components, ancillary equipment and
   services wanted or for sale, reviews of such things, places to buy
   them, and evaluations of these sources.  Not for discussion of general
   engineering, maintenance, or repair -- see rec.bicycles.tech.

rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance
   and repair of bicycles and ancillary equipment.  Not for products or
   services offered or wanted -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace.

rec.bicycles.rides: Discussions of tours and training or commuting routes.
   Not for disussion of general riding techniques -- see rec.bicycles.misc.

rec.bicycles.soc: Social issues, cycling transportation advocacy, laws,
   conduct of riders and drivers; road hazards such as potholes, dogs, and
   sociopaths.

rec.bicycles.racing: Race results, racing techniques, rules, and
   organizations.  Not racing equipment -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace
   or rec.bicycles.tech.

rec.bicycles.misc:  General riding techniques, rider physiology,
   injuries and treatment, diets, and other cycling topics.

rec.bicycles.off-road: Discussion of riding on unimproved roads, gravel, dirt,
   grass, sand, single track or 4x4 roads.  Also discussion of environmental
   issues, trail issues, backcountry travel, how to handle conditions
   (technically and evo-sensitively), off-road magazines and other media.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.5  Electronic Mailing lists

tandem@hobbes.ucsd.edu  A mailing list for tandem bicycle enthusiasts.  
.Suitable topics include questions and answers related to tandem 
.componentry, riding technique, brands and equipment selection, 
.prices, clubs, rides and other activities, cooperating on a section 
.on tandems for the rec.bicycles.* FAQ, etc.  For more information 
        send mail to "listserv@hobbes.ucsd.edu" with the body of the
.message having the line "info tandem", or point your WWW client at
.<http://www-acs.ucsd.edu/home-pages/wade/tandem.html>, or
.finger tandem@hobbes.ucsd.edu.

BOB is the Bridgestone Owner's Bunch, and this is the internet
.edition of it.  This is a mailing list, not a newsletter, and has no
.connection with the real Bridgestone-sponsored BOB except in name and
.in spirit.  Get more information by sending mail to
.bob-request@cs.washington.edu.

HPV list  The HPV list is for the discussion of issues related to the 
.  design, construction, and operation of human powered vehicles 
.  and closely related kin. (Hybrid  human/electric, for example.) 

.  For further information, send a mail message containing the 
.  following single line in the message, to listserv@sonoma.edu:

.  info hpv

BICYCLE on LISTPROC@LISTPROC.NET
 
   The BICYCLE list was formed to provide a forum for cyclists to
   discuss all topics related to bicycles, mtn.  biking, and cycling in
   general.  This is NOT the place to discuss issues related to
   motorcycling.
 
   To subscribe to BICYCLE send the following command to LISTPROC@LISTPROC.NET
   in the BODY of e-mail:
 
      SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE real name
 
   For example: SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE John Doe
 
   Owner: Chris Tanski  ctanski@quest.arc.nasa.gov


BikeMidwest

  A new regional internet discussion group has been started to discuss bicycle
  advocacy issues in the midwest area.  BikeMidwest was started to connect
  cyclists in L.A.W. Regions 6, 7, 8 and 9.  That is, the states of Ohio,
  Kentucky, Tennessee, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota,
  Iowa and Missouri.  Of course, people from outside this area are welcome
  to join.
  
  Subscriptions to the list are handled by a computer program called
  Majordomo.  To subscribe, send a message with the following command in the
  body of the message to Majordomo@fuji.physics.indiana.edu:
   
  subscribe BikeMidwest
  

 Bicycle BBS

 BicycleBBS offers free access to cyclists.  The # is 619-720-1830.  
 The BBS is run by Neil Goren, Neil@BicycleBBS.Org.

 BicycleBBS also has a mailing list.  Anyone can join by sending e-mail to:

 ARMBRC-request@BicycleBBS.Org and put "JOIN" in the text body anywhere.

------------------------------

Subject: 4  Rides

------------------------------

Subject: 4.1  Maps
From: Jim Carson <carson@rice.edu>
Updated-From: Joel Spolsky <spolsky@panix.com>

Adventure Cycling Association maps are not free, but you can get them
without joining.  To order stuff with Mastercard or Visa, you can call
+1 (406) 721-1776 (24 hr).  Maps are currently (Feb 1995) $8.95 each to
"non-members," $5.95 each to "members." There are also small discounts for
sets of maps and members in the continental US don't have to pay for
surface shipping and handling. 

Scale of the maps is generally 1" = 4mi/6.4km.  Certain areas are more
detailed when necessary.  I like the maps because they have lots of
interesting features labeled (campgrounds, grocery stores, major 
changes in elevation, historical info about the region,...), they're
printed on a water-resistant paper, and they fit nicely into a handlebar 
bag map case.

As of Feb '95, there are three transcontinental (W-E) routes an east coast
(N-S) route, a west coast route (N-S), and a middle route and numerous
routes among the various parks in the western U.S. and Canada.

Membership is $25 individual; $35 family; $19 for students/seniors.
Lifetime is $475; $650 for couples. 

Members get copies of Adventure Cycling Association's magazine, Adventure
Cyclist, published 9 times annually, a list of tours run by Adventure
Cycling Association, and the annual _The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_.  _The
Cyclists' Yellow Pages_ provides *LOTS* of interesting information on
touring and points of contact for more information about cycling and
touring all over the world.  (For example, they have an arrangement with
The Netherlands Service Center for Tourism whereby you can purchase
full-color, 21" x 38", 1:100k scale, Dutch-language maps.)

Adventure Cycling Association's address and phone:

.Adventure Cycling Association
.(406) 721-1776, fax (406) 721-8754
.PO Box 8308
.Missoula, MT 59807-8308

------------------------------

Subject: 4.2  Touring supplies
From: Scott "gaspo" Gasparian <gaspar@inf.ethz.ch>

.Recently, I asked the group: what do you bring with you on medium
trips? (medium being more than one nite, and less than a week).  I
received some excellent replies, a few great stories, and lots of things
that I never would have thought of. (at least not until I needed that
spare spoke that is).

Ok, for all of you who don't know what to bring with you on that
next medium trip...


FOOD: .
.Here, just whatever you normally consume.  If you plan on
staying in a hotel/B&B, then obviously 1 day's worth is enough.
Standard things like power-bars and drink mixes should do the trick.
Since I'm not going to BFE, I have no idea what to pack for a real
"camp-out" type tour.  This subject is enough for a discussion in
itself, but I just eat what I want.

CLOTHING: 
.Almost everybody suggested something different, rangin from hi-
tech bodysuits to cutoffs and T-shirts.  However, everybody agreed on the
indispensibleness (tm) of rain gear.  Specifically, light waterproof
pants and jacket are not only good for staying dry, but have a very high
warmth/weight ratio.
.A spare change of skivies, and a pair of dry socks were also
highly recomended.  A pair of jeans or a "smushable outfit" can come in
handy, but I usually smell so bad after a day of riding that anybody who is
talking to me doesn't care what I wear.  If it might be non-warm, a
watch-cap or other non-helmet type hat can help.

FIRST-AID:
.Outside of the standard band-aids/antiseptic-goop bit, sunscreen
and bug-away topped the lists.  Asprin or Ibuprofen and rolaids were
mentioned, but I guess thats a personal thing, just like...

TOILETRIES:
.I stick with: soap, toothbrush/paste, deodorant.  That covers
all I need, but everybody has different needs, and I'm not even gonna
touch the "personal hygeine" stuff.  A razor is handy too, it can help
keep that road-rash dressing from ripping all your remaining hair out.

MISC:.
.I'll put the tent/pit stuff into this category.  Robyn Stewart
gave an excellent testamony to the uses of rope and tarps.  A piece of 
rope stretched between two trees can keep the food above the 
critter-level, and can also provide a rudimentary tent with the aid of
an old shower-curtain.  Again, there is a whole area of discussion here
on the pits and mattresses, but if it keeps you warm and dry, it works.


TOOLS: .
.Basically, this could be split into two different classes, with
things like tire-kit being in the "fix it yourself" category, and other
stuff like a chain remover tool is in the  "how far will I be from 
civilization" range.  This was what I really wanted to know about when I
posted my request, so a little more info than the first groups.

Most of this depends upon how much work _YOU_ do to your velo.  If 
replacing spokes is trivial to you, then you already know what tools to 
bring.  Also, wrenches and screwdrivers are very velo dependent: handy 
sizes for a MTB might be useless for a nice racer, and vice-versa. Tools
that tune more than repair are also an individual call.  I always carry
a hex-wrench that fits my brake-shoe adjustment bolt, but never the larger 
one that actually removes the entire caliper.

.pump
.pressure gauge
.flat kit
.wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
.hex(allen)-wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
.chain tool
.chain links
.tire levers (plastic)
.spoke wrench
.safety wire
.duct tape
.zip ties

SPARES:.
.Again, these fall into "distance from civilization" categories.
For example, that nut that connects your front mudguard to the forks
is essential, but could be fixed with the safety wire until you find a
velo-shop/store that might have a replacement.  Then again, one little
nut is easy on space/weight, and it may be hard to get a replacement if
your velos measurements are non-standard.  If you have a hard-time
finding a replacement for that random part at your local store, bring
one with you.

.inner tubes
.tire-boots
.brake shoes
.light bulbs
.spokes (labeled if different, tied to the frame)
.nuts and bolts for rack/fenders/etc.
.tire (if you're _really_ out there)
.toe-clip strap
.shoe-laces
.cable (especially if yours are longer than normal).
.cable housing (for the shimano special shifter ones)

NIFTY IDEAS:
.Here are some of the better inside tips that I found both 
humorous and usefull....

mjohnsto@shearson.com (Mike Johnston)
.A sock (to keep tools inside and for keeping grease off my hands
.during rear wheel flats)

s_kbca@dante.lbl.gov (Steve Kromer)
.The most important article to take along on a long ride 
.seems to be faith.

chris@wg.estec.esa.nl (chris rouch)
.15cm of old tyre

Robyn Stewart <slais02@unixg.ubc.ca>
.Enough money to get Greyhound home if something goes terribly wrong.

sarahm@Cadence.COM
.bungie cords - you never know when you might want to get that 
.set of six beer mugs as a souvenir and transport it on the 
.back of your bike.

cathyf@is.rice.edu (Catherine Anne Foulston)
.ZAP Sport Towel.  I think it is really useful because you can 
.get it wet and it still dries you.

------------------------------

Subject: 4.3  Taking a bike on Amtrak
From: Carlos Martin <martin@morticia.Princeton.EDU>

The following article relates my own experience in taking a bike
as luggage on the Amtrak in the summer of 1992.  It is intended to
offer advice to those who might choose to do the same, and is not
intended to reflect the views or policies of Amtrak.  For reference,
I traveled from Trenton to Pittsburgh at the start of a tour.

Traveling with a bike on Amtrak can be problem-free if you take a few 
precautions.  Amtrak handles bikes at stations that check in baggage. 
(Smaller stations and some trains don't check baggage at all.)
There is a $5 baggage fee for bikes, and it includes a box.  Call 
the station several days before your trip and notify them that you 
will need a bicycle box.

The box they provided was big enough to accomodate my relatively 
long-framed touring bike (Specialized Expedition) without taking off 
either wheel, and with room to spare lengthwise.  You will, however,
have to remove the pedals (even clipless ones) and turn the handlebars 
to fit the bike in the box.  Plan on putting only the bike in the box - 
no helmet or panniers.  (You may want to check with Amtrak on this point -
they may not cover damages to the bike if you packed other stuff
in the box.)

Before leaving home for the station, loosen your pedals and stem 
enough to make sure you won't need heavy-duty tools at the station.
Plan to arrive at the station one and a half hours before departure 
time - Amtrak wants all checked baggage at least a half hour before
departure (they may tell you one hour).  Don't forget to keep your
tools handy.

At the station, go to the baggage room, get your box and some tape 
from the attendant, remove the pedals, and loosen the stem bolt and 
the bolt that holds the handlebars in the stem.  Hold the front 
wheel between your feet as you turn the handlebars parallel to the
top tube.  Roll the bike into the box and seal the ends.
If everything goes smoothly, you can do the above packing in 
ten minutes.  Now go have lunch before you get on the train 
unless you want to take your chances with train food.

BTW, the trains are very roomy and comfortable, particularly if
you are accustomed to traveling in airline cattle coaches.
I would travel by Amtrak again in a similar situation.
(The usual disclaimer applies:  I have no connection to Amtrak,
other than being a taxpaying subsidizer and occasional user
of the rail system.)

------------------------------

Subject: 4.4  Travel with bicycles - Air/Rail/Other
From: George Farnsworth <georgef@cais.cais.com>

I checked the FAQ for information about taking bikes on common carriers 
and riding in and out of airports some time ago.

At that time there was little information so I initiated a mini survey on 
these subject on rec.bicycles.rides, etc.

Now I have collected information on cycling in and out of about 100 
airports around the world and using trains in the US and Europe.

This information is at VeloNet (http://www.cycling.org/freeweb/access/).
Although the web may have eclipsed the FAQ for certain purposes, it might 
still be possible to provide a pointer to this data, almost all of which 
was contributed by readers of r.b.r (who's email addresses appear in the 
listings).

------------------------------

Subject: 5  Racing

------------------------------

Subject: 5.1  Tour de France Jerseys
From: Chris Murphy <murphyc@bionette.CGRB.ORST.EDU>

Chauner and Halstead (1990) in "The Tour de France Complete Book of Cycling"
explain:

YELLOW Jersey -- Overall leader, first awarded during the 1919 race (TdF
       started in 1903); yellow to match the paper used to print L'Auto
       (Automobile Cyclisme), a French newspaper about bike racing.

POLKADOT Jersey (White w/red dots) -- Best climber, determined by points
         scored by the first 3 to 15 riders finishing selected mountain
         stages (number of riders awarded points varies with the
         difficulty of the stage). First awarded 1933.

GREEN Jersey -- Points jersey, usually won by sprinter-types, with points
      given to the first 25 riders to finish each stage. First awarded 1953.

YELLOW Hats -- First place team, determined by combined elapsed times of the
       the team's top 3 riders.

In the event of a rider leading the race and also deserving one of the other
jerseys, the race leader wears yellow, and the 2nd place in the category wears
the category jersey.

------------------------------

Subject: 5.2  Major Tour Winners 1947-1990
From: Tim Smith <tsmith@gryphon.CTS.COM>

[Ed note:  I'm hoping Tim won't be too upset if I add to the list he posted.
I need some help filling in the last few years.]

Winners of the Big Three National Tours -- Since 1947:

.Tour de France..Giro d'Italia..Vuelta d'Espana
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
1947.Jean Robic (F)..Fausto Coppi (I).E. van Dyck (B)
1948.Gino Bartali (I).F. Magni (I)..B. Ruiz (E)
1949.Fausto Coppi (I).F. Coppi..(not held)
1950.Ferdi Kubler (CH).Hugo Koblet (CH).E. Rodriguez (E)
1951.Hugo Koblet (CH).F. Magni..(nh)
1952.Fausto Coppi..F. Coppi..(nh)
1953.Louison Bobet (F).F. Coppi..(nh)
1954.Louison Bobet..C. Clerici (CH)..(nh)
1955.Louison Bobet..F. Magni..J. Dotto (F)
1956.Roger Walkowiak (F).Charly Gaul (L)..A. Conterno (I)
1957.Jacques Anquetil (F).Gastone Nencini (I).J. Lorono (E)
1958.Charly Gaul (L)..E. Baldini (I)..Jean Stablinski (F)
1959.Federico Bahamontes (E).Charly Gaul..A. Suarez (E)
1960.Gastone Nencini (I).Jacques Anquetil (F).F. de Mulder (B)
1961.Jacques Anquetil.A. Pambianco (I).A. Soler (E)
1962.Jacques Anquetil.F. Balmamion (I).Rudy Altig (D)
1963.Jacques Anquetil.F. Balmamion..J. Anquetil (F)
1964.Jacques Anquetil.Jacques Anquetil.Raymond Poulidor (F)
1965.Felice Gimondi (I).V. Adorni (I)..R. Wolfshohl (D)
1966.Lucien Aimar (F).Gianni Motta (I).F. Gabica (E)
1967.Roger Pingeon (F).Felice Gimondi (I).J. Janssen (NDL)
1968.Jan Janssen (NDL).Eddy Merckx (B)..Felice Gimondi (I)
1969.Eddy Merckx (B)..Felice Gimondi..Roger Pingeon (F)
1970.Eddy Merckx..Eddy Merckx..Luis Ocana (E)
1971.Eddy Merckx..Gosta Petersson (S).F. Bracke (B)
1972.Eddy Merckx..Eddy Merckx..J-M Fuente (E)
1973.Luis Ocana (E)..Eddy Merckx..Eddy Merckx (B)
1974.Eddy Merckx..Eddy Merckx..J-M Fuente
1975.Bernard Thevenet (F).F. Bertoglio (I).Tamames (E)
1976.Lucien van Impe (B).Felice Gimondi..J. Pesarrodona (E)
1977.Bernard Thevenet.Michel Pollentier (B).Freddy Maertens (B)
1978.Bernard Hinault (F).J. de Muynck (B).Bernard Hinault (F)
1979.Bernard Hinault..Giuseppe Saronni (I).Joop Zoetemelk (NDL)
1980.Joop Zoetemelk (NDL).Bernard Hinault (F).F. Ruperez (E)
1981.Bernard Hinault..Giovanni Battaglin (I).Giovanni Battaglin (I)
1982.Bernard Hinault..Bernard Hinault..Marino Lejarreta (E)
1983.Laurent Fignon (F).Giuseppe Saronni (I).Bernard Hinault (F)
1984.Laurent Fignon..Francesco Moser (I).Eric Caritoux (F)
1985.Bernard Hinault..Bernard Hinault..Pedro Delgado (E)
1986.Greg Lemond (USA).Roberto Visentini (I).Alvaro Pino (E)
1987.Stephen Roche (EIR).Stephen Roche (EIR).Luis Herrera (Col.)
1988.Pedro Delgado (E).Andy Hampsten (USA).Sean Kelly (EIR)
1989    Greg Lemond (USA).Laurent Fignon (F).Pedro Delgado (E)
1990    Greg Lemond (USA).Guanni Bugno (I).Marco Giovanetti (I)
1991    Miguel Indurain (E).Franco Chioccioli (I).Melchior Mauri (E)
1992    Miguel Indurain (E)     Miguel Indurain (E)     Toni Rominger (CH)
1993    Miguel Indurain (E)     Miguel Indurain (E)     Toni Rominger (CH)
1994    Miguel Indurain (E)     Eugeni Berzin (RUS)     Toni Rominger(CH)
1995    Miguel Indurain (E)     Toni Rominger (CH)      Laurent Jalabert (FR)

The Tour started in 1903, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1940-1946.
The Giro started in 1909, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1941-1945.

Source: 1947-1982: "La Fabuleuse Histoire du Cyclisme" by Pierre Chany.
        1982-1988: my fallible memory. Would someone complete 1983 and
.1984, and correct any mistakes? Thanks.

One interesting observation: almost all the winners of the Tour were
big names in their time (yes, even Charly Gaul and Jean Robic.)

There were no same-year winners of the Tour and the Giro before 1949.
In fact, the first year a non-Italian won the Giro was 1950.

------------------------------

Subject: 5.3  Rating the Tour de France Climbs
From: Bruce Hildenbrand <bhilden@bigriver.Eng.Sun.COM>

One of the most frequently asked questions is how do the organizers
determine the ratings for the climbs in the Tour de France(TIOOYK).
The Tour organizers use two criteria 1) the length and steepness of
the climb and 2) the position of the climb in the stage.

It is important to note several things before this discussion begins.
First, the organizers of the Tour have been very erratic in their
classifications of climbs.  The north side of the Col de la Madeleine
has flip-flopped between a Category 1 to an Hors Category climb,
even though it seems to be in the same position of a stage every
year.

Secondly, rating inflation, so rampant in other sports has raised
its ugly head here.  Climbs that used to be Category 2 are now
Category 1, even though, like the Madeleine, they occupy the same
position in a stage year after year.

Let's talk about the ratings.  I will give you my impressions
on what I think the criteria are for rating the climbs based on
having ridden over 75 of the rated climbs in the major European
tours.

Note that gradual climbs do not receive grades.  It has been my
observation that about a 4% grade is necessary for a climb to get
rated.  Also, a climb must gain at least 100m for it to be rated.

Category 4 - the lowest category, climbs of 300-1000 feet(100-300m).

Category 3 - climbs of 1000-2000 feet(300-600m).

Category 2 - climbs of 2000-3500 ft.(600-1100m)

Category 1 - climbs of 3500-5000ft(1100-1500m)

Hors Category - the hardest, climbs of 5000ft+(1500m+)

Steepness also plays a factor in the rating.  Most of the big climbs
in the Alps average 7-8% where the big climbs in the Pyrenees average
8-9%.

Please remember that I am giving very, very rough guidelines and
that there are exceptions to every rule.  For example, L'Alpe D'Huez
climbs 3700ft(1200m), but is an Hors Category climb.  This is because
it usually comes at the end of a very tough stage and the climb itself
is unusually steep(~9%) by Alpine standards.

More confusing is the Col de Borderes, a mere 1000ft(300m) climb outside
of Arrens in the Pyrenees mountains.  I have seen it rated anywhere from
a Category 3 to a Category 1!!!  This is most likely due again, to its
placement on the stage.  The Category 3  rating came when it was near
the beginning of a stage where its Category 1 rating came when it was
near the end.

Flat or downhill sections can also affect a climb's rating.  Such
sections offer a rest to the weary and can reduce the difficulty
of the climb considerably.  This may be one of the reasons that
the aforementioned Col de la Madeleine, which has a 1 mile downhill/
flat section at mid-height, flip-flops in its rating.

I am often asked how climbs in the United States compare to those in
Europe.  Most of the US climbs are either short, but steep enough by
European standards(6-8% grade) to fall into the Category 3 or possibly 2,
or the climbs gain enough altitude, but are too long(they average <5%)
so again they would fail to break the Category 1 barrier and end up
most likely a Category 2 or 3.

Fear not, there are exceptions.  Most notable to Californains is
the south side of Palomar Mountain which from Poma Valley climbs
4200' in 11 miles, a true category 1 ascent.

A popular Northern California climb, Mount Hamilton, is similar to
Palomar Mountain but, fails to be a Category 1 climb because of
two offending downhill section on the ascent.

For Coloradoans, you can thank the ski industry for creating long,
but relatively gradual climbs that rarely exceed 5% for any substantial
length(5+ miles).  I never had to use anything bigger than a 42x23
on any climb in Colorado, regardless of altitude.  Gear ratios of
39x24 or 26 are commonplace in the Alps and Pyrenees and give a very
telling indication as to the difficulty of European climbs.

One potential category 1 climb for Coloradoans may be the 4000 ft.
climb in about 15 miles from Ouray to the top of Red Mountain Pass.

Also, remember we are rating only paved(i.e. asphalt) roads.  Dirt roads
vary considerably in their layout, condition and maintenance because there
really are no guidelines for their construction.  This makes it difficult
to compare these climbs and inappropriate to lump them with paved roads.

One last note.  I think it is inappropriate to compare the ascents of
climbs by the European pros with the efforts of us mere mortals.
I have said this time and time again and I will repeat it now.  It
is very, very hard for the average person to comprehend just how
fast the pros climb the big passes.  Pace makes all the difference.
Riding a climb is very different than racing it.

Bruce

------------------------------

Subject: 5.4  How to follow the Tour de France
From: Tom James <thomas.james@new.oxford.ac.uk>

A question was recently posted to r.b.r concerning ways to follow the 
Tour de France. Here are a few comments about my own trips to France over 
the last five years, which may be of relevance to people who want to 
watch the race and have access to either a bike or a car. 

I've seen the Tour every year since 1991, always in the Alps or the 
Pyrenees. In addition, I've watched the Paris Stage in 1993/5, and the 
British stages in 1994, so all in all, I've a fair amount of experience.

In 1991 and 1992 I watched as part of longer cycle tours in the Alps, 
stopping off to watch in the course of a ride from one place to another 
(in 1991 in the Arly Gorge, and in 1992 on the Galibier). On both 
occasions, the combination of my own abilities (only averaging ca. 60 
miles/day) and the Tour's itinery meant that seeing the race more than 
once was not really feasible.

In 1993, 93 and 95 we (myself + 3 friends) organised things differently.  
Basically, we took a car with the bikes on the roof and camped in the 
vicinity of the tour. It was then normally possible to see two days of 
racing (ie, somewhere near the end one day and near the beginning the 
next) before moving on to a new campsite perhaps 100 or 150 miles away 
to get another couple of days in. For example, in 1994, in addition to 
the Brighton and Portsmouth stages, we also saw the tour on l'Alpe 
d'Huez; on the Col de la Colombiere; on the Col de Joux Vert (2km from 
the finish of the Avoriaz time trial) and at the stage start in Morzine.

Now some general notes. If you elect to see the Tour as we did by car and 
bike, be prepared for some long days with a lot of climbing. Bear in mind 
also that after the voiture balai has passed, it can still sometimes take 
almost as long to descend a mountain as to get up, due to the large 
number of pedestrians, cars, other cyclists etc also trying to get down. 
This problem is compounded at mountain top finishes, because firstly the 
field is spread over a long time (maybe 3/4hr from first to last rider) 
and secondly because after the stage, all the Tour vehicles and riders 
generally also come back down to the valley. For example, when we watched 
on Alpe d'Huez, it was nearly 5.00pm before we got down to Bourg d'Oisans 
and we then had a 40 mile ride with 1300m of climbing back over the 
Lautaret to get to where we were camping in Briancon

Secondly, aim to get to the foot of any mountain you want to watch on at 
least 2 hours in advance. Even then, you might find some policemen want 
you to get off and walk. The attentiveness of policemen to this detail 
varies widely. For example, in Bourg d'Oisans, one policemen wanted us to 
walk, even though we were 2km from the foot of Alpe d'Huez; then 100m 
further on a second gendarme told us more or less to stop mucking around, 
if we had bikes then why weren't we riding them! Similarly, one Gendarme 
in 1995 gave an absolute flat refusal to let us even start on the climb 
of the Madeleine (admittedly we were quite late, and the first 8km are 
very very narrow) whereas on the Colombiere, I rode up in the middle of 
the caravane publicitaire. (NB this latter trick has oodles of street 
cred as a) about 50 million people cheer your every pedal stroke, b) the 
caravan showers you with freebies and c) you can beg chocolate from the 
Poulain van and pretend you're a domestique sent back to the team car to 
pick up extra food - and let's face it, being even a domestique is way 
above what 99.9% of the readers of rbr can aspire too!) If you travel by 
car and then hope to walk up, the roads get blocked even before they are 
completely closed - for example, in 1995 we ran into a terrible traffic 
jam south of Grenoble on the day of the Alpe d'Huez stage whilst we were 
heading south, though fortunately we avoided it by going via Sisteron 
rather than Gap, as had been the initial plan.

Thirdly, come prepared for all weathers and with plenty of food and 
water. Both TT's I've been to (outskirts of Paris in 1993, and Avoriaz in 
1994) took over 5 hours to pass, and even a run of the mill mountain 
stage may take 2 hours from first vehicle in the publicity caravan to the 
"Fin de Course" vehicle. The weather can change markedly - for example, 
at Avoriaz, we started the day in hot sunshine with girls sunbathing in 
bikinis, and finished in freezing rain. So make sure you have some warm 
clothing, even on an apparently hot day; plenty of water and plenty of 
food. Remember, once in place , you can't easily nip off to the local shop!

All of the above was written from the point of view of watching in the 
mountains. I guess flat stages are easier as there are more small roads 
around, and the crowds are not so concentrated at certain key points. For 
Paris, it's best to travel into the centre by RER/RATP and then walk; you 
may need to wait several hours if you want a place on the barriers on the 
Champs Elysees, but at the Jardin des Tuileries end of the circuit, the 
pressure is not so bad.

Finally, is it worth it? Yes! OK, you only get a fleeting glimpse of the 
riders, but it is all the incidentals that make it fun - spinning yarns 
with Thierry on the Galibier; riding up the Colombiere in the publicity 
caravan; being at the exact point on l'Alpe d'Huez where Roberto Conti 
made his winning attack (and hence being on Television); seeing Zulle 
ride effortlessly near the top of the Colombiere, 5 minutes up on 
everyone else; getting a grin from "Stevo" on l'Alpe d'Huez when a bunch 
of Ockers I was with shouted "hello Aussie!" as he rode past; and many 
many more in similar vein. Go! - you'll have a lot of fun!

------------------------------

Subject: 6  Social

------------------------------

Subject: 6.1  Bicycling in America
From: Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

(or How to survive on a bicycle)

In America, bicycling appears to be an unacceptable activity for
adults.  It is viewed as a pastime reserved for children (people who
are not old enough to drive cars).  Adults who sense that they are
violating this stricture, excuse their bicycling by representing it as
the pursuit of physical fitness.  They refer to their bicycling as
training rides.  Rarely do you hear a cyclist say "we were bicycling"
but rather "we were on a training ride".  Certainly most of these
people never race although one might assume, by implication, that
their other rides are races.  Some also refer to themselves as serious
cyclists, a term used to describe those who, typically, keep track of
pedaling cadence and other bicycling statistics, thereby giving proof
that they are not engaged in child's play.

In contrast, Europeans seem able to accept bicycling as a proper
activity for all ages.  That is to say, motorists do not treat
bicyclists with apartheid and bicyclists do not feel the need to
justify their pursuit as anything other than bicycling, for whatever
reason.  In Europe cadence on speedometers is an un-marketable
function for unexplained reasons, however, one could imagine that for
the average cyclist it is a useless statistic, except for those on
"training rides".

With this perception of bicycling in America, non cyclists and some
occasional cyclists are offended by others who bicycle on public roads
in the presence of automobile traffic.  "Get the f#%k off the road!"
and similar epithets are heard from drivers, some of whose cars are
equipped with bike racks.  It is similar to gay bashing; by expressing
public outrage they demonstrate abhorrence of unacceptable behavior.
The same is true of bicyclists who deride others in public for not
wearing a helmet.  Aggressive self righteousness is probably a fitting
description.

Another motive behind such behavior may be a sense of dissatisfaction
with ones life.  Anyone who is perceived as having fun, or at least
more fun than the subject, needs to be brought down a notch.
Psychologists who have interviewed youths that go "wilding" have
gotten responses to the effect that "my life is terrible and I can't
stand people who are having fun".  So these youths attack others and
beat them bloody.  In a manner that may not make sense to others, they
bring their victims down a notch to achieve parity.

There is little doubt that bicycling has its hazards.  You can fall by
running into a pothole or an obstacle, by riding into a grating, or
falling on loose gravel or a slick manhole cover.  There are enough
hazards without the threat of being run down by a car.  However, the
whole sport loses its appeal when motorists, who believe that adult
bicycling is offensive, actively engage in making it a deadly
endeavor.

The scenario:

In a typical encounter a driver says to his passenger "You see that
guy on the bicycle?  That's a dangerous place to ride." while slicing
within inches of the cyclist.  The passenger is truly impressed with
the danger of bicycling, especially in the presence of this driver.

I don't understand how drivers justify such behavior but I think I
know what is going on.

Examples:

o  The buzz and swerve routine:

A driver slices dangerously close even though there is no opposing
traffic.  Then he drifts to the edge of the pavement to make clear how
far he went out of his way for the cyclist.  The desired path was even
nearer the road shoulder than at the passing point.  The buzz and
swerve is executed equally well consciously and subconsciously.

o  Center court, extra point:

The car, on a visibly empty stretch of road, travels perfectly
centered between the median and edge stripes, even when this requires
passing within inches of a cyclist.  It appears that the driver is
awarding himself points for not flinching when passing cyclists and
extra points for proximity.  In the event of a collision it is, of
course, the cyclist who swerved unexpectedly.  The precision with
which the driver executes this maneuver, in spite of the danger, makes
the center court game conspicuous.  People generally don't drive
exactly centered in a lane, especially when there is an obstacle.

o  Honk and slice:

The buzz and swerve or center court routine can be enhanced by honking
a single one second blast.  This is usually done at a far greater
distance than a sincere warning toot; about 200 yards works best.
This is a great crutch for the driver who subsequently collides with
the cyclist.  "But I warned him!"

o  The trajectory intercept:

A car is traveling on a road that crosses the cyclists path at right
angles.  The car and bike are equally distant from the intersection
but at different speeds.  With skill, the driver of the car can slow
down at a rate that lets him arrive at the intersection at precisely
the same time as the cyclist.  The bicyclist who has a stop sign may
now come to a complete stop and wait for the driver who is only
looking out for the cyclist's safety.  If the cyclist doesn't stop,
the driver honks and yells something about breaking the law.

Extra points are gained by offering the right of way to the cyclist,
in spite of moving traffic in the adjacent lanes.

o  The contrived hindrance:

A driver refuses to pass a cyclist on a two lane road until the
passenger asks how much longer they must follow this bicyclist, or
until the following cars begin to honk.  Then, regardless of
visibility or oncoming traffic, an inopportune pass is executed after
which each of following drivers makes it clear when passing that it
was the cyclist who was responsible for the near collision.

o The rear-ender:

While riding down a mountain road, the cyclist catches up with a car
that notices his rapid approach.  If an oncoming car approaches the
driver slows down, obviously for safety sake, and then suddenly slams
on the brakes when there is no place for the cyclist to go.  Bicycles
cannot stop as fast as cars since cars can safely skid the front
wheels but bicycles can't.  This game is the more dangerous variation
of speeding up every time the cyclist tries to pass but to drive as
slowly as possible everywhere else.

One explanation for these maneuvers is that the driver recalls that
riding in the mountains was always too hard and riding down hill was
scary.  This cyclist can't do what I couldn't do and I'll show him a
thing or two.  Thus the driver proves to himself that not riding in
the hills was for safety's sake, it had nothing to do with physical
ability.  It fits into the " I'll teach that smartass a lesson.  There
is little risk for the car because in a rear-end collision the vehicle
behind is, with few exceptions, found at fault.

So why does all this go on and on?

It is not as though they are all hostile drivers; some are just
frustrated drivers.  They may still be getting even for some bicycle
accident they had in their youth and don't want others to get off any
easier.  Some are angry at having to spend the time behind the wheel
while other "irresponsible adults" are playing on their bicycles.  I
believe the meanest ones are insecure people who don't feel as though
they are accomplishing what they expect of themselves and don't like
to see others have it any better.  Many drivers believe that the only
part of the road to which a bicyclist is entitled is the road
shoulder, unless it occurs to the driver to use that part too.

A bike rack on a car may lead you to believe that the driver has a pro
bicycle attitude.  Some people use bike racks to transport family
bicycles to a park where they can be ridden safely without venturing
onto dangerous roads; roads that are meant for cars.  Among these
people are some of the strongest opponents of general bicycling.  They
take refuge in the belief that, if they should run you down while
playing center court, it would prove that you should bicycle as they
do, and not get in the way of cars.

What to do?  Don't fuel the flames.  Don't return the rudeness that is
dished out.  Take legal action where appropriate (and possible).
Don't posture in traffic drawing attention to some undefined
superiority to people who sit in cars.  Don't balance on your bike or
ride in circles in front of cars waiting at a red light.  Don't make
moves in traffic that are either discourteous, or at best, awkward but
legal.  If you hear loud knobby tires coming, believe it!  That guy in
the extra tall pickup truck with the all terrain tires, dual roll bars
and multiple searchlights is not a friend of yours coming close to say
hello.  Give him room.

------------------------------

Subject: 6.2  League of American Bicyclists
From: Erin O'Brien <bikeleague@aol.com>

The League of American Bicyclists, (founded as the League of American
Wheelmen) has been working to improve the quality of bicycling in America
almost as long as there have been bicycles. 

In the 1870s the forefathers of bicycling banded together to lobby the
government for more paved roads and to put a stop to antagonistic acts from
other road-users.  United in 1880 as the League of American Bicyclists, their
mission has carried on throughout the history of bicycling. 
  
Fashioned after "The Good Roads Movement" of the 1880's, our current agenda
is embodied by the L.A.W. Safe Roads Movement, a comprehensive program that
aims to reduce the number of injuries and deaths to cyclists.  Highlights
of this 10-pointaction plan include educating bicyclists and other road
users about thei rights and responsibilities to safely share the road, and
promoting the improvement of road design and maintenance to better
accommodate bicycles. 

The League's Effective Cycling program is making great strides to advance
this agenda.  Taught by certified instructors, it is the only national
bicycling education program that combines the technical training needed to
safely negotiate any traffic situation, with the principles of safe,
responsible riding. 

L.A.W. sponsors National Bike Month (May), which serves to promote the
various aspects of bicycling.  In 1992, L.A.W. founded The International
Police Mountain Bike Association (IPMBA) to address the growing need for
information, assistance, and training to start-up bicycle-mounted police
patrols. 

L.A.W. played an instrumental role in the passage of the Intermodal Surface
Transportation Equity Act of 1991 (ISTEA), federal legislation allowing
both for increased spending on bicycling improvements and for bicyclists to
participate in local transportation planning.  L.A.W. also publishes the
bi-monthly Bicyclist Advocacy Bulletin, which provides the most
comprehensive, bicycle advocacy and planning information and advice
available in the nation. 

In between advocacy and education efforts, L.A.W. manages to find time to
enjoy bicycling.  L.A.W.'s national and regional rallies bring together
members from all over the U.S.A. and Canada for great riding and
entertainment, daily workshops include, advocacy, safety, club leadership,
cycling techniques, and more. 

Pedal for Power, another division of L.A.W., hosts Across America and
North-Southa rides that raise money for bicycling and various charities of
the rider's choice. 

Eight issues per year of Bicycle USA magazine to keep members up to date on
League activities.  Regular features include effective cycling tips,
Government Relations and Education columns, cycle news, and an event
calendar.  Special issues include an annual Almanac and Tourfinder.  L.A.W.
offers national touring services to members including Ride Information
Contacts in every state.  While touring, members can also stay in the homes
of more than 600 fellow members, free of charge, through the Hospitality
Homes network. 

League members can fly their bikes for free on TWA, America West, USAir,
Continental, and Northwest airlines when they make their travel
arrangements through the Sports National Reservation Center. 

L.A.W. is a 501c-3 non-profit organization with membership of more than
24,000 bicyclists and 500 affiliated clubs and coalitions nationwide.
Individual membership costs $25/year or $30 for families.  Advocacy
membership, which includes the bi-monthly Bicyclist Advocacy Bulletin costs
an additional $10/year.

To join the League of American Bicyclists send your membership contribution
to 190 W. Ostend St., Suite 120, Baltimore, MD 21230-3755, or call (410)
539-3399.  For membership by phone call 1-800-288-BIKE.  For a membership
form to pay by credit card see the "How to Join League" file.

------------------------------

Subject: 6.3  Rules for trail riding
From: Roland L. Behunin <behunin@oodis01.hill.af.mil>

The Salt Lake Ranger District of the Wasatch-Cache National Forest has
some guidelines for trail riding in their district.  Here they are:

1. Yield the right of way to other non-motorized recreationists.
People judge all cyclists by your actions.  Move off the trail to
allow horse to pass and stop to allow hikers adequate room to share
the trail.

2. Slow down and use caution when approaching another and make your
presence known well in advance.  Simply yelling bicycle is not
acceptable.

3. Maintain control of your speed at all times and approach turns
anticipation of someone around the bend. Be able to stop safely within
the distance you can see down the trail.

4. Stay on designated trails to avoid trampling native vegetation, and
minimize potential erosion by not using wet or muddy trails or
shortcutting switchbacks.  Avoid wheel lockup.  If a trail is steep
enough to require locking wheels and skidding, dismount and walk your
bike.  Locking brakes contributes to needless trail damage.  Do not
ride cross-country.  Water bars are placed across to direct water off
the trail and prevent erosion.  Ride directly over the top, or
dismount and walk your bike.

5. Do not disturb wildlife or livestock.

6. Do not litter.  Pack out what you pack in and carry out more than
your share whenever possible.

7.  Respect public and private property, including trail use signs, no
trespassing signs, and leave gates as you found them.  If your route
crosses private property, it is your responsibility to obtain
permission from the landowner.  Bicycles are excluded from designated
Wilderness Areas.

8.  Always be self sufficient.  Your destination and travel speed will
be determined by your ability, your equipment, the terrain, and the
present and potential weather conditions.

9.  Do not travel solo in remote areas.  Leave word of your destination
and when you plan to return.

10.  Observe the practice of minimum impact bicycling.  "Take only
pictures and leave only waffle prints."

11.  Always wear a helmet.

12.  If you abuse it-you lose it!.  Since mountain bikers are
newcomers to the forests, they must prove to be responsible trail
users.

From personal experience, you may also want to add the following
information:


13.  In National Parks and National Monuments bicycles are considered
vehicles and restricted to roads.


14.  On BLM land - ride only on roadways, trails, and slickrock.  The
desert crust (microbiotic crust) is fragile and takes up to 50 years
to recover from footprints, waffle tracks, etc.

15.  When camping out of improved campsites camp at least 500 feet
off the road or trail.  Try to leave no trace of your campsite.

16.  Toilets in unimproved areas - move off trail, and dig a 1 foot
deep pit, cover after use.
 
------------------------------

Subject: 6.4  Commuting - Is it possible for me to commute by bike?
From: royce@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers)

Not everyone can commute to work on a bicycle.  Some people can't cycle to
work in a reasonable time because of their fitness or because they live
too far away.  Other people need their cars for their jobs, or take
children to school.  Some employers frown on bicycle commuting, and don't
provide any facilities.  All these obstacles can be surmounted.

If you want to commute by bike, you will find a way to do it.

A few facilities at your workplace can make commuting easier.

Minimally there should be racks in a well trafficked area.  Some business
will let you park them in your cube, and others might provide a closet or
unused room to store them.  My company provides enclosed lockers.  If
theft is a significant danger, consider buying a second, inexpensive bike
to be used only for commuting.

If your commute is short, and the dress code where you work is relaxed,
you won't need to change or clean up after getting to work.  The rest of
us need to prepare for work.  

Every workplace has a bathroom where a sponge bath and change is
possible.  If you're lucky (like me) there's showers and lockers.  If your
ride makes you sweat a lot, and there is no way to take a shower at work,
look around for a nearby gym.  Sometimes you can arrange to change and
shower there, then walk or ride slowly to work.   If you want to get a
workout, but there's nowhere to clean up at work, try getting your workout
on the way home, making little or no effort on the way to work.

If your ride is too long for a round trip, and there's no place to park,
put your bike in your car and drive to work on Monday.  Monday night, ride
home.  Tuesday morning ride to work and put your bike in the car.  If
you're tired Tuesday night, drive home.  If there is a vanpool to work,
get the vanpool driver to mount racks.  Then you can take the vanpool in
the morning and ride home in the afternoon.

Some people reduce the length of their commute by driving to a "park and
ride" area, then riding in from there.  Another way to solve a long
commute is to find out about bicycle accommodation on buses or other
public transportation.  Many people use a combination of bikes and buses,
subways, or trains to make a long commute possible.

Racks, bags and panniers: Some people drive in clothes once a week and buy
lunch at work so they don't need to carry much on their bikes.  Others
need something to carry paperwork, lunch and clothes.  A lot of commuters
use knapsacks rather than putting racks on a bike, but this raises their
center of gravity and increases wind resistance.  Racks can be put on any
bike, and they come in handy for running errands, touring and unsupported
rides.  If you're looking for a commuting bike, get one with rack eyelets
on the frame for convenience.  Another alternative are touring saddle
bags, which are hard to find but are very handy on bikes without racks.

Get your bike in shape.  Replace tires which have cracked sidewalls, or
worn casing.  Carry a flat kit, a spare tube and enough tools to fix a
flat.  If you're not mechanically inclined, have a bike shop tune up your
bike.  Check every part of the drivetrain for lubrication and wear.  Make
sure your wheels are true, and that the hubs are lubricated and adjusted
properly.

Contributors:
[I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group
without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to
me]

drobinso@mendel.une.edu.au
ilana@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU
burrows@bcu.ubc.ca 
jlbell@presto.eecs.umich.edu
jones@greg.cs.usu.edu
banders@netcom.com
curt@cynic.portal.ca
doosh@netcom.com
"td"
"Robert"
ae505@yfn.ysu.edu
cs4601ah@coral.cs.unm.edu
tbd@dfw.net
timlee@netcom.com

------------------------------

Subject: 6.5  Commuting - How do I choose a route?
From: royce@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers)

According to the U.S. Uniform Vehicle Code, drivers of bicycles have the
same rights, and the same responsibilities, as drivers of other vehicles. 
This means that commuters may use any road, street or highway they want,
and that they must obey traffic laws.  Some states vary from the UVC, and
of course, some countries treat bicycles diffently than the US does.

John Forester, in his book Effective Cycling, suggests that all cyclists
use the following traffic principles:

"1.      Ride on the right-hand side of the road, not on the left and 
never on the sidewalk.

[Note: this is specific to those countries which drive on the right hand
side of the road, like the US.  In countries like the UK, you should ride
on the left side of the road.]

2.      When approaching a road that is larger than the one you are on, or
has more or faster traffic, you must yield to traffic on that road.
Yielding means looking and waiting until you see that no traffic is
coming.

3.      When preparing to move laterally on a roadway, you must yield to
traffic in that line of travel. Yielding means looking forward and
backward to see that no traffic is in that line of travel.

4.      When approaching an intersection, you must choose your position
according to your destination. Right-turning drivers are at the curb, left
turning drivers are at the center, while straight-through drivers are
between them.

5.      Between intersections, you choose your position according to your
speed relative to other traffic. Parked ones are at the curb, medium-speed
drivers are next to them, while fastest drivers are near the center of the
road."

Transportational cyclists want to maximize safety and minimize time. 
Usually the most direct route between the cyclist and work will be the
best choice, but other factors may come into play.

Facilities: Multi-use paths (trails shared with bicycles, pedestrians,
skaters and sometimes horses) are less safe than the road, according to a
recent study published in the Institute for Transportation Engineers
journal; this kind of facility is more likely to send cyclists to the
hospital than comparable streets.  Pedestrians, pets and skaters are
unpredictable and require more skill to pass safely.  Sidepath
intersections are very dangerous because motorists don't expect vehicular
cross traffic.  

Roads with wide curb lanes are safer than narrow roads, but narrow roads
may be ridden safely by using an entire lane.  Bike lanes may be as safe
as the same width roads without lanes as long as the rider is competent to
avoid their dangers (e.g., they direct cyclists into right turn lanes,
when the cyclist should normally ride to the left of the right turn
lane).  In California, cyclists traveling at less than the speed of
traffic must remain in the bike lane unless preparing for a left turn or
avoiding a hazard, like parked cars, a slower cyclist, rough pavement or
debris.

Traffic: even though arterials usually faster and more convenient than
side streets, riding on side streets may be more enjoyable due to lower
traffic noise and better scenery.  Some cyclists are willing to ride the
Huntington Beach multi-use path during the summer even though the fastest
safe speed is 5mph.  The view is very nice.

The compromise among pleasure, safety and time is yours.

Once you set your priorities, scout a few routes.  Get the best street map
you can find and highlight streets that you like. US Geological Survey
maps (1:24000 scale) also show the hills, which is handy.  They're
beautiful maps, too.  They look nice on a wall.

Contributors:
[I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group
without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to
me]

drobinso@mendel.une.edu.au
ilana@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU
burrows@bcu.ubc.ca 
jlbell@presto.eecs.umich.edu
jones@greg.cs.usu.edu
banders@netcom.com
curt@cynic.portal.ca
doosh@netcom.com
"td"
"Robert"
ae505@yfn.ysu.edu
cs4601ah@coral.cs.unm.edu
tbd@dfw.net
timlee@netcom.com

------------------------------

Subject: 6.6  Commuting - Do I really need to look that goofy?
From: royce@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers)

Before I started cycling I had no idea why cyclists wore such silly
looking clothes.  Now I know why, but I still think we look silly.  The
value of using cycling clothes on a commute depends on the length of the
commute.  It is hardly worth it to ride 1 mile to work in cycling clothes
and then change to regular clothes at work, but 20 miles is a different
story.

How to dress for the road, from the ground up:

1. Shoes: if you have a short commute with little climbing, virtually any
kind of shoes and socks will do.  I have seen commuters wearing cowboy
boots moving at around 15 mph.  If you expect to exert yourself for any
length of time, some trade-offs should be considered.  Socks made of
cotton will retain moisture, while polyester type socks (e.g., Coolmax)
will wick moisture and encourage it to evaporate.  Cycling shoes are
stiffer than casual or dress shoes, so transmitting energy to the pedal is
more efficient.  On the other hand, they are not comfortable to wear off
the bike, so a change of shoes is necessary at work.  For most of us, this
is not a problem because shoes take up little space and can be left at the
office.  There are a range of options in cycling shoes, depending on your
pedal choice.  

A note about pedals:

- Flat pedals allow easy on-off and may be used with any shoes.  If you
hit a bump your feet may leave the pedals, which can result in loss of
balance and a crash.

- Toe clips and straps keep your feet on the pedals.  They are designed to
be used with cycling shoes, either touring shoes, which have a sole
designed to hook onto a pedal, or racing shoes, which have cleats that
lock the cyclist to the pedal and improve efficiency.  Many people
consider clips and straps to be obsolete, but they are a low cost way to
improve your efficiency.  They will work adequately with street shoes and
hiking boots, which some people consider an advantage.

- Clipless pedals attach your shoes to the pedals similar to the way skis
attach to boots.  With practice you can step in and out of them as easily
as flat pedals, but they are more efficient than toe clips.  These pedals
require shoes that are compatible, and are much more expensive than toe
clips.  I use the SPD style of clipless pedals, which has a recessed cleat
allowing you to walk around off the bike.  I wouldn't recommend extensive
walking in these shoes, but they are perfect for what I need.

- Some pedals are flat on one side and clipless on the other, which allows
the rider to choose to wear cleated shoes for performance or regular shoes
for utility trips.

- An adapter is available for some clipless pedals that will turn them
into flat pedals with toe-clips.

2. Shorts: Casual cyclists ride at low speeds, at low RPMs, for short
distances so no special shorts are necessary.  If you ride for any
distance you will need to develop a high RPM (80 - 110) for efficiency. 
When your legs are moving that fast, baggy clothes will chafe, as will the
the seams in ordinary underwear, so you'll need something clingy like
lycra.  And if you exert yourself, you will need to have some kind of
liner in these shorts to wick moisture from your privates.  Bicycle shorts
are meant to be worn with no underwear; they are usually made out of lycra
and are lined with wicking pads.  A good pair of bike shorts makes long
rides a pleasure; in fact, I never get on my bike without them.

3. Jerseys and shirts: Cotton retains moisture, so if you sweat, cotton
will keep it next to your skin, making you feel sticky and soggy.  Yecch. 
Polyester fabrics are designed to wick moisture away from you and allow it
to evaporate quickly.  Bicycle jerseys are made out of polyester, and are
cut longer in the back because cyclists usually ride leaning forward to
reduce air resistance.  Also, jerseys normally have two or three pockets
in the back, handy for carrying a handkerchief, banana, etc.  When I take
my kids on rides I'll wear a tee shirt because I'm not going to sweat
much, but I always wear a jersey on my commute.  Some people like cotton
and other natural fibers because they don't retain odors as much as the
polyester fabrics.  In cool weather, wool is ideal.

4. Gloves: gloves will make your commute much more comfortable, and will
offer some protection in a crash.  Long fingered gloves really help you
stay warm when it's chilly.

5. Eyewear:  If you are commuting at dawn or dusk, you should consider
wearing clear glasses to protect your eyes from debris kicked up by cars
and wind.  In daylight, sunglasses are a necessity to protect against UV
as well as road hazards.

6. Helmet: A helmet offers some protection in a crash, but the best way to
survive a crash is to learn to avoid falling in the first place.  I wear
one, but I don't think it's some kind of magic talisman.

7. Other equipment: If there are unpredictable rains in your area, carry
rain gear.  The articles on riding in the winter are availble through ftp
from:

  ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/wintertips
  ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/wintertips.pam

If you might work late, carry a light.  Articles on lights are available
through ftp from:
  ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/arnie.light
  ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/lights
  ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/lights2

Contributors:
[I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group
without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to
me]

drobinso@mendel.une.edu.au
ilana@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU
burrows@bcu.ubc.ca 
jlbell@presto.eecs.umich.edu
jones@greg.cs.usu.edu
banders@netcom.com
curt@cynic.portal.ca
doosh@netcom.com
"td"
"Robert"
ae505@yfn.ysu.edu
cs4601ah@coral.cs.unm.edu
tbd@dfw.net
timlee@netcom.com

------------------------------

Subject: 6.7  Commuting - Do cyclists breathe more pollution than motorists?
From: royce@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers)

The sources for this information vary in credibility, but most of it comes
directly from published studies or other reputable sources like the
Berkeley Wellness letter.

1.  Exercise will extend your life by about the amount of time you spend
doing it.  So if you spend an hour on your bike, you've added an hour to
your life.  

2.  Drivers of cars are exposed to up to eighteen times more pollution
than "ambient air", approximately 300 feet from the road.  Cyclists share
the road with cars, but they do not trap pollutants, and they take air in
at a much higher position than cars (assuming a diamond frame) so...

3.  Cyclists breathe approximately 1/2 as much pollution than cars (this
appears to be _per breath_).

4.  Over _time_, a cyclist will breathe much more than a sedentary driver,
since the cyclist is using more than twice as much air.  Athletes appear
to be very sensitive to foul air.

5.  In general, cycling takes longer than driving, so the bike commuter
may be exposed to pollution for longer periods of time.

6. A UK study found that cyclists had 1/2 the blood level of CO that
drivers did after traveling along a ten mile stretch of congested road. 

7. CO blood levels may be less of a problem than inhaled particulates,
which are much harder to measure.  Masks make breathing difficult if they
are properly sealed, and are ineffective if they are not sealed.

As a result, the health advantages of commuting by bike depend on several
key factors:

1.  Would you exercise anyway? That is, would you drive to the gym and
ride a stationary bike in relatively clean air if you weren't commuting in
traffic.

2.  How hard do you ride? The harder you ride, the more air -- and
therefore pollution -- you take in.  But then the better the training
effect will be, so if you don't do any other exercise, this is a wash.

3.  How long is your drive compared to your ride? If it takes
significantly more time to ride, you may be exposed to more pollution.

4.  What kind of car? An open air Jeep would take in and trap less
pollution than a sedan.

The health effects of exercise far outweigh any additional health dangers
from pollution.  If you would exercise anyway, though, commuting may not
in your best interest.  If you commute on low volume side streets, or on
sidepaths, pollution might not get you, but other hazards might.

Here is a rationalization for those of us who want to believe that
cyclists get less pollution than motorists:

One thing I've noticed about my commute: when I drive, I am _always_
surrounded by traffic.  All us cars meet at the light and move from light
to light more or less together.  When I ride my bike, I meet cars at
lights, but I don't spend a lot of time around them when they're rushing
past me to get to the next light.  The vast majority of time is spent
between packs of cars, without much motor traffic.  Since I'm not around
cars very much I can believe:
- I am breathing more garbage than a motorist when I'm in traffic 
- I am breathing less garbage than a motorist when I'm not in traffic 
- I am not in traffic far more often 

Therefore: I am probably getting less pollution on the bike than in my car!

Contributors:
[I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group
without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to
me]

drobinso@mendel.une.edu.au
ilana@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU
burrows@bcu.ubc.ca 
jlbell@presto.eecs.umich.edu
jones@greg.cs.usu.edu
banders@netcom.com
curt@cynic.portal.ca
doosh@netcom.com
"td"
"Robert"
ae505@yfn.ysu.edu
cs4601ah@coral.cs.unm.edu
tbd@dfw.net
timlee@netcom.com

------------------------------

Subject: 7  Marketplace

------------------------------

Subject: 7.1  Marketplace hints/guidelines
From: Jim Siler <ksi@panix.com>

: Are people really willing to pay 10% less for a "nearly new" MTB when 
: they
: . a) often have no assurance that it really hasn't been used
: .    (except of course someone's word) 

: . b) may have to buy, unseen.

: . c) may not get a transferable waranty on the MTB

I think that in general, many people are acutely aware of what they
spent for a thing and are woefully unaware of how much value that thing
lost when they walked out of the store.  Let's assume for a moment
that I buy an XTR rear derailleur in my local shop (good practice,
worth some added cost) for $100.  I use it for a week, and trash my 
frame and want to part it out.  Hmmm... this was $100 new and its only
a week old, virtually new.  Let's ask $90 o.b.o. and see what happens.

Now I change roles and become the buyer.

I go to my local bike shop, where I trust the owner and am willing
to pay a premium, but no XTR rear derailleur.  Next stop mail order.
Everyone but everyone has it for $80, plus shipping, but less tax.
They will take a credit card.  The unit is warrantied, in the box,
with instructions (the value of which should not be underesimated).

Given this I am unlikeley to even consider the used part.  But let's 
suppose I offer $75, and send off my money order, sight unseen. 
What can happen?

1 --.It never arrives.  After a number of hassles and excuses I
.realize that there is a major problem.  Email stops being
.returned.  I contact his sysadm, who can't do much.  I
.publicly flame him, starting one more interminable flame 
.war.  Eventually I either get my $75 bucks back or not.
.Even if I get the derailleur (remeber, the original
.object was the derailleur) I have bought myself
.hundreds of dollars worth of aggravation.

2 --.It arrives and looks like hell.  C'est la vie.

3 --.I arrives and one week later it is obvious that something
.is seriously wrong.  No amount of adjustment will cause
.it to shift reliably for any length of time.  See 2, above.

4 --.While waiting for arrival i trash MY frame.  Derailleur
.arrives.  Sadly, I have nothing to hang it on.  See 2,
.above.

Let's run through the same scenarios having purchased through mail
order, using a credit card.

1 --.I don't pay.  If they get pissy about it I do too.  As most
.mail order houses have, at best,  a fragile relationship
.with Mastecard/Visa (it is VERY difficult to open a merchant
.account to accept credit cards over the phone for mail order,
.so difficult that many use their in store accounts, faking
.signatures) and are dependent on that relationship to stay
.in business, they tend to become most reasonable when you
.make real noise with the credit card company.

2 --.Unlikely, as goods should be new.  See 1, above.

3 --.Warranty problem.  If you have a good local dealer, you
.would have been better off there.  If you have a so-so 
.dealer you may well be better off through mail order.  
.Worse comes to worst, see 1, above.

4 --.Worst case, you eat a restocking fee.

In general, I would be hesitant to buy anything here for much more
than 60% of its mail order price, unless the product is exactly
what I want and all else is right.

I have bought two things this year through this group, a GT Zaskar LE
frame, new in the box with slight cosmetic ding for $350 (negotiated
from $375) and a Flashlite 2 tent with a tiny hole, professionally
repaired, for $100.  Both carried resonable prices in the original 
post, offered to pay the shipping, and clearly spelled out the
possible problems with the product for sale.  Both sales were 
satisfactory to all involved, and I am delighted with both.

I have seen many other Items for sale that I have wanted and bought
elsewhere because the posted prices were so ridiculous that I
had no basis for negotiation.  Typically, these are reposted with
sad wonderings as to why no one has responded.  C'est la vie.

In general, I think that anyone wanting to move something quickly
through posting should do the following:

.Be realistic with price.  Look at the true market value of
.your goods.  It is not what you paid.  You are going to take 
.a loss.  If your fork, which was the hottest thing in July
.of this year, cost you $600 in a store is not any better
.than the new $375 fork that is available in December, its
.market value is certainly no more than $375, if it is new.
.Unless limited availability takes it out of the commodity
.realm (e.g., my Zaskar frame with blemish had only limited
.availibility) knock off 40% of the realistic market value.
.Our fork is now down to $225.  If this makes you too
.queasy, up it a bit and throw in shipping, say $275 with
.U.P.S. ground shipping, hmmm... not too bad.

.Clearly state everything of importance to the buyer, good
.and bad.  This will avoid later hassles, and greatly increase
.your trust factor.

.Don't initially offer at an inflated price, thinking to
.negotiate down (remember back to Onza Clipless Pedals for
.sale flame war).  It just makes it clear to an intellegent
.buyer that you are hoping to find a sucker, and will take
.whatever advantage you can.  This may not be true, but it
.will be clear, nonetheless.  Trust factor goes down the
.toilet.

.Make phone contact as soon as possible.  A human voice is
.often more comforting than an email address.

To anyoune who has read this far, thanks for putting up with my
rambling and opining.

