Subject: recreational {ice} figure skating FAQ part 2
Supersedes: <rec-skate-faq/recreational-figure-skating/part2_794870416@rtfm.mit.edu>
Date: 9 Apr 1995 18:34:09 GMT
References: <rec-skate-faq/recreational-figure-skating/part0_797452370@rtfm.mit.edu>
Summary: Part 2 of this 6 part posting is the first of two parts on
        equipment, covering skating boots, purchase, use and
        maintenance.
X-Last-Updated: 1995/02/09

Posting-Frequency: monthly
Last-modified: 14 Jan 1995
Version: 199501


PART 2.  Figure skating eqpt

5. Know your skates!
    5.1 Boots
        5.1.1 selecting new boots

Good figure skating boots and blades are bought separately.  Avoid 
the type of skates where the blades are permanently riveted to the 
boots.  For adults, they should fit snugly on your feet so that the tips 
of your toes are just brushing the ends.

The advantage of stiff boots is that they last many years and provide 
good support.  Their disadvantage is that they have a long and 
perhaps uncomfortable break-in period and they are more 
expensive.  If you buy *too much* skate, you may find them 
virtually impossible to break in.  Lighter boots on the other hand are 
more comfortable and break in faster.  They also wear out faster.

When purchasing new skating boots, the skater should give a lot of 
thought as to what is needed and what is available.  Whatever make 
of skating boots that the skater wishes, it is most important that the 
boots fit properly (your foot should be held firmly by the boot) and 
show first class workmanship.  Proper blade mounting can make a 
soft boot stronger than a hard boot with blades improperly mounted.

The tongues of the boots are very important as good tongues that 
cling to the foot and stay in place can give a lot of support to the 
boots as well as comfort to the feet. Very stiff tongues lined with 
lambs wool are a poor choice, as this type of tongue will usually slide 
around to one side and also make the boots hard to lace snug around 
the ankles. This type of tongue also sheds, leaving no padding under 
the stress areas.  Foam rubber makes the best tongue lining, but it is 
important to get good quality foam rubber. It should be about 1/2 
inch thick with fairly small holes.

When trying on boots, wear the same socks/tights that you will skate 
in.  Thick socks are not a good idea as they will allow the foot to 
move in the skate.

It is difficult to relate the size of the boot to your shoe size as this 
varies from one manufacturer to another.  Ask to be measured by a 
competent vendor.  They should have you sit and put a little 
pressure on the measuring board.  Try on the boots before having 
the blade mounted, and don't hesitate to try others if you're not 
satisfied with the fit.

Custom fitted boots are not necessary unless your foot/ankle is 
shaped unusually or has been injured, you require extra support for 
your weight or are doing advanced jumps.  

        5.1.2 breaking in your boots:

Lace and unlace your new boots three or four times before skating.  
New boots may cause chafing and irritation of ankles or feet.  If the 
top rim of your boots rubs your legs, buy some cloth medical tape 
and moleskin to protect the irritated areas.  Bandages or round foam 
makeup pads can be made into pads to fit over your ankles.

You can get stock boots "punched out" (stretched) where they're 
hurting your feet, customizing them to some degree (although this 
leaves marks on the leather).  Some skate shops can do this or look 
for a store specializing in orthopedic shoes.

Dont lace them right to the top at first. (see section 2.1.5 on lacing).

If you want to speed up making the boots fit the contours of your 
ankle bones, find a wooden dowel (eg. broom handle) about the 
diameter of your ankles and cut two lengths equal to the width 
across each ankle.  Baby food jars can be used in place of dowels.  
Using tape and a marker, mark the location of your ankle bones on 
each boot (on top of the tape) -- it turns out that the inner and outer 
ankle bones are not directly across from each other.  Then when not 
wearing the boots, insert the dowels, lining them up with the marks, 
and lace the boots up tightly.  This should relieve the pressure on 
your ankles and improve the fit of the boots.

*The following opinion is not accepted by all: Some say it may 
decrease the lifetime of the boots.*  Put on skating tights or socks 
after putting them in water as hot as you can stand and then put on 
your  skates and just sit, no walking, until the tights dry.  Or, take a 
couple of damp hand towels (not dripping wet), put them in a 
microwave and get them hot, put them in the boots for a few 
minutes, then remove the towels and wear the boots for a while. 

        5.1.3 maintenance

In order to keep the boots and blades in the best condition, always 
remove them from the skate bag, remove the guards and leave the 
skates in the open so that the air can thoroughly dry them when not 
in use (rust on the blade can also ruin the sharpening).  Be sure to 
dry the entire sole of your boot off each time you skate, so the 
leather won't start to decay.  Scratches and nicks in the boots should 
be attended to before water penetrates the leather.

The lacquer on the soles will become chipped and scratched with use.  
A variety of other types of waterproofing are available at skate 
shops, and are more effective than lacquer.  Waterproofing should be 
applied to the entire sole before the blades are mounted, and 
reapplied periodically.

Black streaks on white uppers can be easily removed with a solvent 
made for this purpose.  For white uppers, use a buff type liquid 
polish.  For black boots, use a black liquid or canned shoe polish.

You should periodically check the screws which hold the blades on, 
especially when the skates are new and make sure they are tight.  If 
a screw is loose, probably water is getting inside the screw holes and 
the leather of the sole itself causing the hole(s) to expand and soften.  
What you should do is bring your skates to a reputable skate shop 
and have them take the blades off, sand off the top layer of enamel, 
re-plug the holes, and re-coat the soles before putting the blades 
back on.  They will put screws in new holes wherever possible.  If 
the soles are really rotted out, then your only option other than 
replacement is to send them back to the manufacturer to get new 
soles.

        5.1.4 selecting used boots

The boot must support you, otherwise you will be expending most of 
your energy just holding your legs straight.  Grasp the boot by the 
top of the ankle and hold it sideways (parallel to the floor).  If it 
droops, it will not provide you the ankle support you need.  Don't 
buy it.  Look at the condition of the boot - it should be leather and 
not some kind of plastic or pseudo leather with a cloth lining.  There 
should be no cracks or tears in the leather, though creases are fine.  

Your best bet is to check any rinks in your area - see if the skate 
shop, rink office or pros/instructors have any used boots for sale.  If 
there is a bulletin board or skate club, check any advertisements or 
advertise that you are looking for size-N skates.

        5.1.5 lacing

Getting your skates laced properly will enhance your balance and 
control and make your skates more comfortable.  First, loosen the 
laces completely and position your foot when lacing - don't just step 
in the skate and lace it up, but set your heel firmly in the rear when 
tightening the eyelet area up.

Second, you don't have to lace all areas equally tightly.  Put in 
overhand twists (like the first step of tying the bow) at strategic 
places to keep the laces from "evening out".  Remove the slack 
through the first 3 or 4 holes but don't tighten too much or you'll 
stop your circulation.  Tie a twist (optional), then lace tightly for the 
rest of the holes to hold your ankle firm.  At the top of the holes tie a 
double twist,  and cross-lace the hooks (that is, lace them so they are 
crossed at the hooks).  For the last two hooks, lace fairly loosely so 
you can bend your ankle.

When breaking in new skates, you can leave the top hooks unlaced 
and skip the top hole to make them more comfortable and start a 
crease in the leather at the ankle.

        
