Subject: rec.models.railroad FAQ-TINPLATE, Part 4 of 4
Date: 9 Jan 1996 23:36:59 GMT
Summary: This FAQ contains information on the collecting, operating and repair of Collectable or Tinplate model trains.
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rec.models.railroad
TINPLATE TRAIN FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Part 4 of 4, The Hobby
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This is a listing of frequently asked questions and general information
concerning the collection, operation and repair of collectable model
railroad equipment. For more info on this FAQ see part 1. Additions and
corrections are always welcome. E-mail to:

colemanc@infinet.com
(Christopher D. Coleman)
TCA #88-26999
LRRC #0032070

This FAQ contains the following topics:

Part 1, Information

   * WHAT'S NEW IN THE FAQ?
   * COLLECTABLE/TINPLATE TRAINS
   * GRADING STANDARDS AND OTHER JARGON
   * MANUFACTURERS
   * THOMAS THE TANK ENGINE
   * RAILSCOPE
   * LOCOMOTIVE TYPES

Part 2, Equipment

   * CARS
   * TRANSFORMERS
   * TRACK
   * SWITCHES

Part 3, Maintenance

   * TOOLS
   * MAINTENANCE TIPS
   * MODIFICATIONS
   * PARTS SUPPLIERS
   * MOTOR DESIGN

Part 4, The Hobby

   * LAYOUTS
   * OPERATING TRAINS
   * DISPLAYING TRAINS
   * COLLECTING TRAINS
   * INVENTORYING
   * MEETS
   * GROUPS
   * OTHER SOURCES

LAYOUTS

How should I build my layout?

     A person's layout is very much an expression of his collecting
     interests. Layout styles vary from the traditional "flatland" green
     painted board to weathered near exact scale empires. What will be
     presented here are general tips for layout design and construction.
     Scale detailing can be found in the scale FAQ.

     Some builders plan exact layout designs using templates or computer
     software before proceeding with any layout construction. A listing of
     such programs can be found at
     http://www.he.tdl.com/~colemanc/soft.html I've found most more adapted
     toward scale layouts than sectional tinplate. Moondog Express (see
     Mikes Trains and Hobbies in Parts) sells real-size cardbord track
     templates, so you can layout a track pattern without using track.
     Three rail track templates can be had from:

     CTT, Inc
     109 Medallion Center
     Dallas, TX 75214
     Phone: 214-373-9469

     Other programs and templates can be found using the OTHER SOURCES
     section. Others, including myself, feel this removes some of the
     originality and just go at a pile of lumber and track with a general
     idea in mind. By laying the track unconnected in location, one gets a
     better feel for how the layout will turn out.

     BENCHWORK

     Benchwork is any superstructure that supports trains or accessories.
     1/2" to 3/4" Plywood is recommended for surfaces. Particle board will
     sag out of place over time and waferboard/strandboard is weaker and
     difficult to work with. To support the plywood, a framework must be
     constructed. The size of the beams used varies with the length they
     must support and the strength needed. Remember on larger layouts
     climbing onto the board may be necessary from time to time, so it must
     support your weight. For a layout 4X8' or larger 2X4" beams are
     recommended, though 1X4"s are also used. They should be arranged
     similarly to floor joists, with the long dimension vertical. Connect
     beams of appropriate lengths in a rectangles the size of your plywood,
     then run support across the intervening space parallel to the shorter
     side of the rectangle, spaced about 24" to 36" apart. Remember it is
     more important for the top faces of the beams to be aligned so
     assembly is best done upside down on a flat surface, and be sure to
     get straight beams from your lumber supplier. You may now attach legs,
     which should be bolted, NOT screwed or nailed. The number depends
     again on strength need and layout size. Braces are recommended,
     running diagonally from the leg to the benchwork. The frame can now be
     flipped and plywood attached.

     This is a generic beginners layout board and infinite variations can
     be made to its design. As for height, commonly used figures are 2',
     2'6", 3' and 4'. I use 3' since it is low enough for medium size
     children to see and high enough to make their grabbing trains
     difficult. I also use multiple level trains at 4'6" and 6'. REMEMBER
     the plywood will add a fraction of an inch to the height, so account
     for this in leg length.

     WIRING

     All too many tinplate operators think it is necessary to run two wires
     from the transformer to each item on a layout. A better idea is to run
     feeders the length of the layout and connect leads from them to each
     accessory. Color coding helps immensely in tracing faulty wires and
     shorts. The system I've developed is shown below:

          insulated    +-----------------------------------+-------------+
             rail______|________________                   | #45 gateman |
                 _______________________ TRACK             |             |
                 _________|_____________      +------------|             |
                      |   |                   |            +-------------+
                      |   |LEADS              |
                      |   |                   |
           COLOR      |   |       FEEDERS     |      SUPPLY    LOAD
           black------*---|--*----------------|------ground or common
           black------*---|--|----------------|------ground or common
                      |   |  |                |
                      |   |  |                |
           red--------|---*--|----------------|------ZW A -- loop 1 upgrades
           orange-----|------|----------------*------ZW B -- signals
           yellow-----|------|-----------------------ZW C -- accessories
           green------|------|-----------------------ZW D -- loop 1 downgrades
           blue-----*-|------|-----------------------B    -- lights
           violet---|-|------|-----------------------KW A -- loop 2
           red------|-|------|-----------------------KW B -- loop 3
           orange---|-|------|-----------------------T    -- loop 4
                    | |      |
           +---------------+ |  +-------------+
           |   #394 Beacon | +--| Lumber mill |-+
           +---------------+    +-------------+ |
                                                |
                                           thru controller
                                           to accessory lug

     I run these feeders the length of the layout, in sections connected by
     buss bars (screw terminal strips), and supply leads can be spiced in
     at the buss connections about every 4'. In this arrangement it is
     important to separate the ground feeder from the others by a foot or
     so, to avoid shorts. I strongly recommend the use of copper over
     aluminum wires, as where powerful postwar transformers can fry
     aluminum without tripping the circuit breaker. I also recommend 14 to
     16 gauge wire for the feeders and 18 to 20 for leads. Two ground
     feeders are recommend since they are the return path for all current.

     TRACK LAYING

     Always screw your track down! Many locomotives have gone from mint to
     good condition with a few too many derailments on loose track
     sections. I recommend slotted, pan head, sheet metal screws (yes, even
     if you're going into wood). #4 size for O-27 and #6 size for O.
     Tinplate track is designed with flexibility of layout design in mind.
     A pair of lineman's pliers, or better yet track pliers (get these from
     parts suppliers), are indispensable when assembling track. Also keep a
     supply of spare steel and fibre pins on hand. Cutting custom length
     track sections is often necessary in more complex layouts. To do this
     clamp the rails, not ties, between two blocks of wood. This will
     prevent bending the rails during cutting. Cut along the wood, from the
     top of the rails to the bottom for a straight clean cut. Reaming out
     the inside of tubular rails is often necessary before inserting a pin.
     Use dull wire cutters or needle nose piers to squeeze the track around
     the pin at the base of the railhead. Many track pins also have a rut
     in either end so that the railhead sides can be pressed in and prevent
     slippage.

Is cork roadbed any good for Tinplate?

     I used in on a small Super-O layout and there was no noticeable
     reduction in noise. This is because well secured tinplate track
     transfers vibrations right through the mounting screws into the
     benchwork. I does, however, give that prototypically high mainline
     look.

How steep can I make a grade?

     Grade is rise over run. For example if a real railroad climbs two feet
     in 100 feet of track it is on a 2/100 or 2% grade. Lionel graduated
     trestle sets rise about 0.5" each track section, 8.75" for O-27,
     making it 5.7% grade. This would be a torturous grade for a real
     railroad, whose normal heavy grade is 2.5 to 3%. For most beginner
     train sets this is steep, but manageable. No steeper is recommended.
     Also remember a curve in an ascending trestle makes the grade about
     twice as hard for the engine, depending on the tightness of the curve.
     Curves also introduce the problem of cars being pulled off the track
     to the inside due to the tension between the engine and the rest of
     the train. To alleviate this somewhat cars should be ordered in
     descending weight. Furthermore if your track is in less than ideal
     condition, a curve on a grade will be the prime spot for a derailment
     on your layout, due to the unusual stresses placed on the track
     joining pins by car wheels.

     If you want to run trains longer than about 10 cars you're going to
     have to make your own trestle with an easier grade. You can make your
     trestle out of whatever you like so long as you firmly attach it to
     the track and preferably also to the benchwork. The smoothest
     operation will be attained if you make the grade taper up from zero at
     the bottom and back to zero at the top with the normal grade in the
     middle. This eliminates the wack of the wheels at stressed joints at
     the top and bottom as well as pilot (cowcatchers) catching the center
     rail at the bottom and longer locomotives rocking over the peak at the
     top. At minimum there should be support at each rail joint. For curves
     there should be support in the middle of the section also, to prevent
     your prize locomotive from bending it over enough to topple. The best
     support is 1/4" to 1/2" plywood strips under all the track. I use 1/2"
     4" wide strips supported about every 9" by a short section of 2X4.
     This can be hidden with paper mache', plaster, simulated stone, or
     whatever sceniking process you prefer. I also grade 1/4" rise each
     track section or 2.9%, steep but not too bad.

     If you're really ambitious you can build one from balsa wood. Use 1/4"
     square stock laying one under each rail parallel to the rail. Use
     shorter sections perpendicular under the first about every 2" to 4".
     Cut 1/4" dowel rods to length and run four of them from the support to
     the ground as pilings. This is of course a basic design.

My loco stalls at the far end of my loop of track.

     Dirty track is the first culprit. To remove light dust, oil and grease
     most track cleaning solutions are adequate with a clean cloth, either
     those provided by train makers or other products like "Rail Zip". Wet
     the cloth and rub the track as if you were polishing it. As the cloth
     becomes dirtied refold it and proceed. When you no longer soil the
     cloth the track is clean. For more serious dirt use an eraser.
     Ordinary erasers work, but an abrasive one is best, A commercially
     available one is called "Bright Boy" which seems to work well, like
     those included in track cleaning kits. If surface rust has set in use
     fine or very fine sandpaper. NEVER EVER use steel wool or ANYTHING
     else that will leave metal bits on the track. Locomotive motors will
     suck them in and destroy themselves! If rust has reached the state of
     pitting don't bother. It is not worth your time to fix severely rusted
     track. Remember when using any abrasive to clean your track, new track
     is nickel plated and is often smooth enough to remove dirt without
     abrasives, but once you take off that coating with and abrasive your
     track is exposed to oxidation and will need cleaned much more often.

     If this fails the easiest solution is to add more power connections to
     your track. This is only a band-aid solution, though, since more than
     bad connections may be present. Nine of ten times a corroded track pin
     is the cause. You should clean all your track pins before assembling
     your layout. Pull them and clean the end in the track section too if
     necessary. Clean them the same way you clean the track. If your track
     section is corroded on the inside of the tube, throw it in the
     recycling bin, it's not worth the trouble.

     If you need track down a faulty track section, first disconnect all
     power leads and remove all trains from the track. Here a light
     continuity tester is helpful, but a multimeter is best. Disconnect one
     track connection and test the continuity of the center rail around the
     loop. The outer rails are almost never a problem since they have a
     double conductor, but if you rule out everything else, you might check
     them too. A resistance less than 5 Ohms is pretty good, more and you
     should trace the problem. Also check the continuity between the center
     and outer rails. It should be infinite resistance (no current). If
     current flows you have a bad center rail insulator.

     To track down a bad connection test the continuity between each track
     connection. Any reading over around 1/2 Ohm means trouble. One or the
     other sections around the joint will need replaced. The easiest way to
     find a center rail insulator short is to connect a transformer WITH A
     CIRCUIT BREAKER and crank it up to around 3/4 power. Listen to the
     track and you can usually hear the sparks in the bad insulator and it
     will get hot too, so be careful. Alternatively you may be able to
     track is down with the meter.

How can I operate my signals without those pesky pressure plates?

     There are a variety of electronic gadgets for this purpose. For these
     see the companies in MODIFICATIONS. The most popular method is to use
     an insulated track section. These are made by carefully prying out one
     outer rail and inserting insulators in each crosstie like those in the
     center rail. These are easily made from a piece of index card covered
     by a layer of electrical tape. Firmly press the rail back in place
     with the insulators underneath. Be careful not to puncture them.
     Insert an insulating fibre pin in either end of the rail, and connect
     a lockon to that side of the track. Use the connection to the outside
     "common" rail as a lead for the common on the accessory. Connect the
     center rail to your variable transformer supply and the other
     accessory lead to your transformer accessory supply. This method will
     obviously not be able to trigger the green and red lights of a block
     signal properly, but it will work on gatemen, crossing gate,
     semaphores and other on/off signals.

What if I don't have the time to build a layout?

     No problem, there are a number of firms which specialize in custom
     building tinplate layouts and others who produce "production line"
     layouts. I will not list them here, but they advertize heavily in the
     tinplate train press. Be aware, though, your will be paying for
     someone else's labor in additon to parts.

OPERATING TRAINS

Can I doublehead tinplate locomotives?

     Yes, as long as you use similar locomotives. What I mean by this is
     some locos use can motors, some use "universal" motors in addition to
     various gearing ratios. To test two locos for compatibility set them
     on the track, uncoupled and unloaded and run them in the same
     direction. If the separation between them rapidly increases or
     decreases their natural speeds are too far apart and they will fight
     each other if coupled together. You MUST lock out your sequencers when
     you doublehead since a momentary power loss may sequence one loco and
     not another (unless you have electronic ones which supress this
     problem). Mid-train helpers are also possible but placing requires
     skill and practice. Rear helpers are not recommended.

How many cars can my locomotive pull?

     This depends greatly on what type of trucks your stock has. Newer
     (1971 and up) cars usually have needle point bearings in low friction
     plastic which allows them to roll very easily. Older cars have no
     bearings at all and take 2-5 times more force to roll and are heavier.
     These are estimates of pulling capacity based on drivetrain:

   *  Dual DC can motors, spur gear: 8 old, or 20 new
   *  Single universal motor, spur gears: 15 old, or 35 new
   *  Single universal motor, worm gears: 22 old, or 45 new
   *  Dual universal motor, worm gears: 35 old, 60 new

     Magnetracion and rubber traction tires can, of course, increase the
     pulling capability of an engine. Magnetracion is superior in griping
     and also grips with all powered wheels without insulating them from
     the track as tires do. Magnetraction is, however, far more difficult
     to replace if it fails.

How can I make my locomotive smoke?

     The first smoke mechinism Lionel used in 1945 simply allowed a smoke
     pellet to rest in the headlight bulb with a special dimple in it. This
     didn't work very well and was quickly replaced with a resistance coil.
     Either heat source caused the pill to slowly melt and vaporize.
     Unfortuantly Lionel pellets are no longer made, as where they were
     patended by the engineer who created them for Lionel. Life-Like does
     still make a smoke pellet, though it does not work as well or smell as
     distinctive as the original. To aleviate the patent fees, Lionel
     converted to a petroleum based liquid smoke. Since smoke units
     designed for liquid have an absorbant material built into it, the
     pellet and liquid should only be used in thier respective style units.
     Flyer and Marx used only liquid smoke units. Smoke liquids currently
     available can be used interchangably in liquid smoke units.
     Additionally some new liquids are designed to give off specific scents
     such as original Lionel smoke pellets.

     Original Lionel smoke pellets have become collectable in thier own
     right, so If you have them, use them sparingly and fill in the gaps
     with other brands. You might also use a few drops of liquid smoke in
     you bottle of pellets occasionally to keep them from disintegrating.
     Using a pipe cleaner to brush the white residue inside your smokestack
     back into your generator will extend the effectiveness of the pellets
     you use.

     It has also been suggested that scented lamp or Seuthe oil may be
     used, though I have not tried it.

     Liquid smome is available from:

     Life-Like Industries
     address unknown

     "Roscoe Smoke Fluid"
     address unknown

     "Supersmoke"
     Bart's Pneumatics Corp.
     1952 Landis Valley Rd.
     Lancaster, PA 17601
     Phone: 717-392-1568

     "Live Steam"
     Available from Mikes Trains and Hobbies
     Adrress it PARTS section

     Pellets from:

     K-Line Electric Trains, Inc.
     address under MANUFACURERS section

DISPLAYING TRAINS

How can I display my trains?

     The most obvious method is to screw track to shelving. Trains can also
     be placed right on the shelving but this provides less protection
     against earthquakes, pets, children, etc. One ingenious solution is
     called Rail Rax. They are solid aluminum shelves with mounting holes
     and molded extrusions the width of your track gauge. They are
     available in HO/S, O, and O/I/Standard from:

     Rail Rax
     786 Seely Ave
     Armas, CA 95004
     phone: 408-726-3706

     260 Buffalo St
     Buffalo, NY 14203
     Phone: 716-648-5817 or 716-852-4676

     Another clever solution is to use beadboard, a common material in the
     walls of older buildings that can still be purchased. The grooves
     between beads are about right for O and S gauge stock. There are
     special brackets available for rack shelving which has staggered tiers
     for holding three rows of train display boards all visibley. Available
     from:

     For Toys Company
     PO Box 61
     Winnetetka, IL 60093
     Phone: 708-441-6671

     Yet another alternative is to use wood shelving with rouded or sawed
     slots to accomidate wheel flanges. A pre-made shelving of this kind is
     abailable from:

     Trackside Marketing
     PO Box 137
     Fairview, PA 16415
     Phone: 814-833-8562

     Remember when choosing a location for your trains that moisture is the
     enemy of trains. This is especially important if your trains are in a
     basement. A good dehumidifier will save your trains in even a slightly
     damp basement. Similarly if you choose an attic you must be cautious
     about heat. Many of the earlier plastics used in train manufacture are
     especially suceptable to warpage and melting in heat. A/C or
     ventilation is a must.

COLLECTING TRAINS

How do I know what to buy?

     Buy what you like! If you don't like it don't buy it. What not to do
     is buy every train you see. Give it a bit of thought first. Why do you
     want to collect trins in the first place? Is it to operate or display?
     Are you fond of a particular scale, manufacturer, time period or
     style?

How much is it worth?

     You can follow the grading standards above and look up a price in a
     guide, but that is only an approximation. Look at the MEETS section
     for details on this.

Is is in original condition?

     This matters to some more that others, but is is accepted as wrong to
     repaint or replace with reproductions major sections of an item and
     try to pass it off as original. Groups like the TCA take this very
     seriously and have expelled members for it.

     Reproduction parts are quite a controversy. They are needed where
     original parts can no longer be found, but can be misrepresented.
     Volumes have been written on what parts have been cloned and how to
     tell, but I will give some general guidelines.
       1.  Lionel molded parts usually say "Lionel Corporation, New York,
          NY" or similar. Watch for parts of this missing.
       2.  Reproductions usually have more apparent "parting lines" where
          the two pieces of the mold met.
       3.  The parts most often broken or lost are those most often cloned.
          Automobiles, helicopters, submarines, missles, and other plastic
          loads are good examples.
       4.  Bad copies are often warped or show color variation.
       5.  If you are at all suspicious, don't acuse. Ask someone more
          experienced for their opinion, especially train group officers.

INVENTORYING

How can I inventory my collection?

     The simplest way other than just writing it down is to use a price
     guide/checklist from the places listed in OTHER SOURCES. On the
     computer many use a database program such as FilePro or Paradox that
     can be set up in any way you wish. This has the advantage of being
     very flexible and you can make other files for your catalogues or
     slide collection with the same program. The disadvantage is if you
     want current values you will have to enter them by hand. There are
     several pre-made inventory programs. Check with the suppliers in OTHER
     SOURCES. Also there is:

     "Copm-u-Trak" - Mac or PC $39.95
     Frank K Kistner
     11062 Delta Circle
     Boca Raton, FL 33428
     Phone: 407-482-2857

     "MacTrak" - Mac $10 demo, $93 full system
     Macintory
     3200 Washington Street
     Boston, MA 02130

     "Softrak" If you have FileMaker Pro, try dropping a note to SofTrack
     [SofTrack@aol.com]. They have a Model RR inventory template for FM Pro
     on the Mac or Windows, $60

     "Train Tracker" - PC $59.95, price disks $16.95
     REF Development Co.
     144 Iler Drive
     Middleton, NJ 07748
     Phone: 908-706-1500
     Toll Free: 800-589-REEF

     "Trains"
     Scottsville Business Systems
     PO Box 3
     Scottsville NY, 14546

     "Yardmaster" - IBM PC $69.95 with one price disk.
     Additional price disks: 19.95. (PreWar, PostWar, Modern Era)
     TM Books & Video
     New Buffalo, MI 49117
     Toll Free: 800-892-2822

     "The Train Collector's Workbook"
     The Ashland Group
     16 Kings Row
     Ashland, MA 01721
     Phone: 508-881-6315

     "Model Railroad Assets" - IBM $29.95 + $5 S+H
     Northstar Software
     620-19th Street
     Suite 123
     Niagra Falls, NY 14301-2226
     info@bbs.falls.net

Is there a good method for identifying trains to be recorded in a catalog?

     This depends on the make. Usually the best way to cataloging them is
     first by Make, then by "catalog number". This usually appears on the
     item, but not always, and sometimes even the wrong one appears. The
     best way to make sure you have the correct number is to buy a
     "checklist and price guide" from either Greenberg Books or TMK for
     each make. They list all the numbers produced with a brief description
     of each. For the larger makers like Marx, Lionel, and Flyer the lists
     are separated into major periods of manufacture, such as Pre WWII,
     post WWII Post 1970, etc. The heiarchy of my train database is:

          Maker
          Period
          Catalog Number
          Date Purchased

     In some cases it can be a bit of an art but is usually straight
     forward. Early trains (1910's and before) and "economy" trains are the
     hardest to classify as where they often have no markings.

MEETS (or shows)

How should I approach attending a collectors train meet?

     There are two types of meets, Open and Closed. Open meets are open to
     the public such as Greenbergs Train and Doll Shows and Great American
     Train Shows. Closed meets are open only to group members and guests,
     such as the TCA York PA Meet. It is often recommended that you attend
     at least one meet with no money and just get the feel of the meet. I
     walk through a meet once before buying to get a feel for that meets
     prices and selection, and then make successive rounds getting the
     emerging deals each time. Another tip is always hang around until
     closing time when many sellers would rather make a deal than haul
     stuff home. In any case you should try to have an experienced
     collector with you for your first few meets. There are sharks at every
     meet who just want your hard earned dollars in their pockets.

     Another tip is that some sellers are very testy about people handling
     their items until sold, so restrain that urge to examine every piece
     at a meet and watch for dealer's "NO TOUCH" signs.

     Prices are usually higher at open meets since the clientele is less
     experienced. Prices are mostly a factor of how badly the seller wants
     to dump the item and how badly he wants to turn a profit. Prices are
     usually higher than book value and can be negotiated down to around
     book value. NEVER buy a piece at a meet without trying to bargain it
     down and don't be afraid to walk away and try later, the dealer might
     become more desperate to sell. It is also a good idea to carry a
     pocket price guide with you, but don't swear by its accuracy.

     For more information see:

     Greenbergh Shows, Inc.
     7566 Main Street
     Sykesville, MD 21784

     Great American Train Show Limited
     PO Box 1745
     Lombard, IL 60148
     Phone: 708-834-0652

     Meets Versus Shops? Meets have better selection (by a long shot) and
     prices (by about 20%) but shops have a friendly face and service after
     the sale which is best for new items, plus there is less difference in
     the price of new items (about 5%). I do not recommend mail order since
     you get the worst of the two above, plus you don't really know what
     your getting until it arrives. (postage charges too)

     Lionel in 1992 instituted a new policy that no current production year
     items may be sold at meets or advertized mail-order. This is an
     attempt to prevent undercutting of their dealers and to ensure service
     after the sale. At a result dealers, many of whom do both shops and
     meets, will just sell their year-old stock at the meet.

GROUPS

What groups related to the collecting aspect are there?

     The following is an incomplete list of major tinplate groups:

     TCA Train Collectors Association
     PO Box 248
     Strasburg, PA
     Phone: 717-687-8623
     Fax: 717-687-0742
     -Largest and oldest (1954) collector's group which establishes many
     accepted standards. $20.00 per year national fees. Several divisions
     and many chapters which may have their own fees. Includes Train
     Collectors Quarterly magazine one of which being the national
     membership directory, and National Headquarters News quarterly
     newsletter. Chapter, Division and a National member meets with
     admission from 5$ to 15$.

     TTOS Toy Train Operating Society
     25 W Walnut Street
     Suite 308
     Pasadena, CA 91103
     Phone: 818-578-0673
     Fax: 818-578-0750
     $22.00 per year, no enrollment fee
     7,000 members, sponsers meets including two large CA meets shared with
     the TCA, Cal-stewart and San Jose.

     LOTS Lionel Operating Train Society
     PO Box 62240
     Cincinnati, OH 45241
     For operators of Lionel trains of all vintages.
     Annual Dues: $22.00; Initiation Fee: $6.00
     Bi-Monthly Publication (2,4,6,8,10,12): SWITCHER national and local
     public meets

     LCCA Lionel Collectors Club of America
     P.O. Box 479
     LaSalle, IL 61301
     For collectors of Lionel trains of all vintages.
     Annual Dues: $40.00; Initiation Fee: $10.00
     founded 1970
     Bi-Monthly Publication (1,3,5,7,9,11): "The Interchange Track"
     contains buy-sell-trade advertisements.
     Bi-Monthly Publication (2,4,6,8,10,12): "The Lion Roars" contains
     technical and product articles.

     LRRC Lionel Railroader Club
     PO Box 748
     New Baltimore, MI 48047-0748
     -Current membership is $10.00 per year, includes a 12 page quarterly
     newsletter, membership button, and current year catalog. It is part of
     Lionel and is directed more toward kids, but it gives a great deal of
     insight into Lionel productions and offers special cars, locos, and
     premiums for sale.

     AFCC American Flyer Collectors Club
     P.O. Box 13269
     Pittsburgh, PA 15243
     Frank C Hare, Editor
     -Annual Dues $12.50 Payable in Jan four issues a year, a member list
     and updates are provided. topics covered are ALL of AF items O-Gauge,
     S-Gauge, Standard Gauge. The Whistling Billboard is a FREE advertising
     section for members 75 words or less. The Baggage Room section is for
     discussion

     K-Line Collectorls Club
     PO Box 2831
     Chappel Hill, NC 27515
     -Annual Dues $30 plus $5 startup fee, exclusive production items
     offered.

     Marx Trains Collector's Club
     PO Box 111
     Bakerstown, PA 15007
     -Annual Dues $39, Quarterly newsletter, membership includes club car

OTHER SOURCES

Where can I get more information?

     A good well stocked hobby shop can answer many questions, if they
     really want your business. For reference material check following:

     MAGAZINES

     Classic Toy Trains
     -8 Issues per year, soon to be monthly, collectable trains with some
     landscaping techniques, $26.50 per year, 31.60 per copy price, best
     for tinplate

     Kalmbach Publishing Co
     21027 Crossroads Circle
     PO Box 1612
     Waukeesha, WI 53182-1612
     Toll Free: 800-533-6644
     Fax: 414-796-0126

     Model Railroader
     -Monthly, mostly smaller scale with some tinplate, $34.95 per year

     Kalmbach Publishing Co
     21027 Crossroads Circle
     PO Box 1612
     Waukeesha, WI 53182-1612
     Toll Free: 800-533-6644
     Fax: 414-796-0126

     O Gauge Railroading
     -Bimonthly, Half and half scale tinplate, $22.00 per year, 40.00 for 2
     years.

     PO Box 239-B
     Nazareth, PA 18064-0239

     Garden Railways
     -G, bimonthly, $21.00 per year

     PO Box 61461, Dept CT
     Denver, CO 80206
     Phone: 303-733-4779

     Outdoor Railroader
     -G, bimonthly, $21.00 per year

     Westlake Publishing
     1574 Kerryglen Street
     Westlake Village, CA 91361

     The Train Yard
     -G, bimonthly, $22.00 per year

     23015 Del Largo Hills Drive
     Laguna, CA 92653

     S Gaugian
     -Bi-Monthly, $4.25 newstand, $28 Yearly ($34 outside US)

     Heimburger House Publishing Company
     7236 West Madison Street
     Forest Park, IL 60130
     Phone: 708-366-1973

     BOOK CATALOGS

     Books are available on most every imaginable subject in tinplate
     trains. Videos are also available. Some chronicle famous layouts and
     Manufacturers while others are how-to such as train repair.

     GREENBURG BOOKS

     Bruce Greenberg founded Greenberg's publishing in the 1970s and now
     acts in a consulting capacity since he sold the company to Kalmbach
     Publishing. From its beginning Greenbergs has had the best selection
     of tinplate books. Especially recommended are their "Guide to _______
     "(fill in the blank) comprehensive Product listing in Volume I and
     other information in successive volumes if available. Good stuff. Call
     and ask for a catalog.

     Greenberg Books
     Division Kalmbach Publishing Company
     21027 Crossroads Circle
     PO Box 986
     Waukeesha, WI 53182-1612
     Toll Free: 800-533-6644
     Fax: 414-796-0126

     TM BOOKS

     TM Books was also founded in the 1970s, by James Tuohy and Tom
     McComas, and started with documenting prewar Lionel. Their books are
     usually more expensive and focus more on history than product
     descriptions. They also focus more on videos.

     TMK Books and Videos
     PO Box 279
     New Buffalo, MI 49117
     Toll Free: 800-892-2822

     OTHER BOOKS

     TCA (see address above)
     "Standard of the World, Lionel Trains" Second Edition Excellent
     listing of Prewar Lionel trains, contains color chips for original
     paint colors.

     "All Aboard; the history of Joshua Lionel Cowen and his Toy Train
     Company"
     Good and enlightening chronology of Lionel during Cowen's lifetime.
     Workman Publishing Company
     708 Broadway
     New Yotk, NY 10003

End of the Tinplate Train FAQ, Part 4 of 4
HAPPY MODELLING!
On to the Webville and Hypertext Railroad Co. where other documents are
kept.
