.he CHAPTER 19 CORBIN HANDBOOK AND CATALOG NO. 7, PAGE #

                             CHEMICALS AND SUPPLIES  

     BOX-25    Bullet Packaging, 25 Boxes
          Available  in  packages  of  25,   the  Corbin  commercial  bullet 
     packaging  system  is one of the most cost-effective ways to  sell  and 
     ship  your custom-made bullets.   Each bullet is individually nested in 
     its own "chamber" surrounded by charcoal-color soft foam.  There is a 5 
     by 5 matrix of chambers or cells in the 2-inch-thick foam block,  which 
     results  in either 25 large bullets or 50 small ones being safely  held 
     in the foam.
          There  are years of research behind the packaging.   Let me  share 
     with  you  some of the reasons for this particular  arrangement  before 
     going into the other details of the box itself.
          First,  why 25 instead of 100 or 50 holes,  or some other  number?  
     Experience  shows  that  handloaders will pay more per  bullet  without 
     complaint  when the quantity purchased and priced is smaller  than  the 
     standard factory package of 50 or 100 bullets.  Since there are half as 
     many or less in the package, your price for the package will seem lower 
     than it really is to the buyer who is comparing numbers in his head.
          Second,  good  marketing practice in this field does not match the 
     number of bullets with the typical number of empty cases to be reloaded 
     at  one  sitting.   Most rifle cartridges are packaged in lots  of  20.  
     When  a handloader reloads,  he usually will reload all  twenty  cases.  
     With  your custom bullets packaged in lots of 25,  this gives him  five 
     extra bullets. 
          The  reason for the five is so that he will be more likely to take 
     one  of  them  along with him to the range,  to show  his  friends  the 
     bullet he is test-firing.   Also,  he will have five bullets left over, 
     and  few people want to throw away five bullets.    They will  probably 
     wind up on display somewhere,  or be given to a friend,  or,  even more 
     likely, will remind him to purchase another package from you!
          If  you  feel that there is space going to waste in the  box  with 
     smaller bullets,  you can put two bullets in each chamber.   There is a 
     foam  cylinder in each hole,  which will compress as much as needed  in 
     order to hold any reasonable length of bullet on either side.  Load one 
     side first,  pressing the foam down with the bullet,  then slip the box 
     over the foam block.  Turn the box over, so the other side of the block 
     shows,  and press 25 more bullets down against the foam cylinder (now a 
     disk compressed between the two bullets).
          The package itself is square,  and has triple fold end  walls,  to 
     make  it highly crush-resistant.   While plastic boxes look good on the 
     dealer shelves and on your reloading bench,  they often are damaged  in 
     handling and shipping when you try to send them without another package 
     around them for protection.  And if you do that, your cost is more than 
     double what it would be with the single Corbin box.  
          The Corbin box is made for direct mail or UPS shipment without any 
     other protection.   It is finished with eggshell white, and stores flat 
     until you need it.  The interior dimensions are just right for the foam 
     block  and foam pad which accompanies it (for tip protection).   One of 
     the best features is that the box takes any size of bullets from .14 to 
     .600  Nitro!   The  special  plastic foam  material  stretches  without 
     tearing to hold the larger calibers snugly,  and is soft enough so that 
     your small calibers will not be scratched up.   Styrofoam (white  semi-
     rigid foam such as most ammo-makers use in the cartridge boxes) quickly 
     crumbles  and becomes dirty from handling.   The charcoal color  sponge 
     foam  looks good and stands up for your customer to use.   The  double-
     wall  corrugated  box  is actually tougher than  either  pasteboard  or 
     plastic when it comes to handling.  
          If you wish to have a custom label made,  your local printing firm 
     can make a self-adhesive label that is perfect for both shipping label, 
     box  sealer,  and advertising.   Write for a free pattern and suggested 
     designs to assist your printer.  
          Remember,  when  you begin selling your product,  the  package  is 
     extremely  important.   It  can  make or break your  sales  until  your 
     reputation  for a quality product is secure.    If your package arrives 
     in good condition,   has good eye appeal,  and obvious thought has gone 
     into the way it is assembled and holds the bullets,  then your customer 
     will be impressed with your concern for the product.   You can spend  a 
     lot  more  for plastic or reinforced pastboard without getting as  much 
     benefit for the dollar,  and wind up having to repackage all your boxes 
     in  another  shipping carton,  adding to  your  expenses.   The  Corbin 
     packaging  system does it all,  and gets it there,  at miminum cost and 
     with maximum protection.


     CSL-2     Corbin Swage Lube, 2-0unce Bottle
     CSL-16    Corbin Swage Lube, 16-Ounce (Pint) Bottle
          All steps of swaging a bullet require a thin film of high-pressure 
     lubricant  on  the  surface  of  the  lead  or  jacket.   Even  if  the 
     instructions  don't mention it,  proper lubrication is assumed any time 
     you  put a piece of metal into a die.   Core swaging,  jacket  drawing, 
     bullet reducing, and swaging all require Corbin Swage Lube for long die 
     life and proper operation.
          The natural components of Corbin Swage Lube are clean,  acid-free, 
     and good for the skin.   Lanolin-based,  but not lanolin alone,  Corbin 
     Swage  Lube  has  been used for over 20 years by  the  masters  in  the 
     swaging  field.   Synthetic lubes have come and gone,  but this  proven 
     formula remains the best choice.  
          Corbin  Swage  Lube is normally applied by putting a drop on  your 
     fingertip  and  giving the component a twist between  your  finger  and 
     thumb as you raise it to the die.   This quick,  natural movement saves 
     you  time and does a good job.   A thin film on the surface is all that 
     you  need.   A  two-ounce  bottle will  normally  service  about  2,500 
     bullets.  The pint size is a lifetime supply for most shooters.
          Many handloaders have found that Corbin Swage Lube is far superior 
     to  most  of  the  case-sizing lubes on the market,  and  they  use  it 
     exclusively for resizing cases.   The converse it not true:  do not try 
     to use a standard case lube for swaging, as you will have stuck bullets 
     or  worse.   Case lubes simply are not designed to stand up to the high 
     pressures  involved  in  swaging.   They either break  down  or  diesel 
     (ignite from high pressure within the die),  neither of which does much 
     good and can result in a badly stuck bullet.


     CDL-2     Corbin Dip Lube, 2-ounce Sampler
     CDL-16    Corbin Dip Lube, 16-ounce (pint) Can
     CDL-128   Corbin Dip Lube, 128-ounce (gallon) Can
          Dip Lube,  also called "Liquid Jacket", is a special wax lubricant 
     in a solvent carrier.  If you manufacture lead bullets, you can dip the 
     lead cores into Dip Lube prior to swaging,  then swage them while damp. 
     The  lube  works well enough for lead in the swage die,  and then  drys 
     quickly  to form a tight skin or jacket of wax on the  bullet  surface.  
     No  grooves or cannelures are needed to hold this film,  which is  hard 
     and non-sticky, yet flexible enough for rough handling.
          The  lube  works  by the process of  molecular  attraction,  using 
     polarized wax molecules to attract to the metallic surface of the  lead 
     bullet.   The  special  wax is designed both for this feature  and  for 
     resistance to high temperatures.  You can also use it for cast bullets, 
     if (heaven forbid!) you should still want to cast bullets once you have 
     read  this manual!   It takes the work out of the process.   Instead of 
     having  to  size  and lubricate each bullet,  you can  put  them  in  a 
     strainer or wire basket and dip them all at once in a can of Dip Lube.
          No  particular  time  is required for the wax to  attract  to  the 

     bullet.   Once it touches the lead, a film of wax molecules has already 
     bonded  to the surface.   If you want to let the wax cure and then  dip 
     again, you can repeat the process.  But successive layers are held by a 
     different mechanism than the first one.  Repeated dipping may help with 
     guns  and loads that tend to foul the bore with lead bullets,  as  will 
     rolling  the  damp,  freshly  dipped bullets in graphite or  a  product 
     called  "Motor Mica".    Most users,  including some  large  commercial 
     bullet makers who buy it by the gallon,  find that Dip Lube works quite 
     well just as it comes.
          Other  uses for this quality wax compound include a stock wax that 
     is tougher than most, a boot water-proofing that gets in all the seams, 
     a protective film for gun metal exposed to the rain, and a great way to 
     keep  screws  and nuts from rusting when used  outdoors.   Wood  screws 
     dipped  in Dip Lube go in easier and are not attacked by the acids  and 
     moisture  in the wood.   I have even soaked cardboard rolls in Dip Lube 
     and  used  it  as a very safe-to-carry fire  starter  for  my  campfire 
     (the  supposedly dry undersides of standing deadwood even get soaked in 
     our Oregon rains!).


     CCB-2     Corbin Core Bond, 2-ounce Sampler
     CCB-16    Corbin Core Bond, 16-ounce (Pint) Bottle
     CCB-128   Corbin Core Bond, 128-ounce (Gallon) Bottle
          Most  people only need this product to make good hunting  bullets.  
     If  your interest is target shooting,  there isn't much point in  using 
     it.  Core Bond makes it possible to form an alloy junction by diffusion 
     of  metal,  between the lead core and the jacket.   Core Bond  forms  a 
     junction stronger than solder, and more easily. 
          The  reason you might want to try it is that bullets made this way 
     will  outperform the same bullet made with a partition by 50% or  more, 
     judging by retained weight and expansion.   Partition designs typically 
     lose  most of the front core when they expand.   We like  them  because 
     they  manage to protect the rear half of the core.   But a bonded  core 
     bullet  typically  holds 90 to 100 percent of the original weight  with 
     just as great, or greater, expansion!
          In test after test,  including more than 150 Cape Buffalo to date, 
     and  both domestic cattle and a wide variety of game,  the bonded  core 
     bullet will outperform nearly any other kind of construction.  And best 
     of  all,  you  can  use the bonded core IN ADDITION to  other  designs.  
     Several Corbin clients have established high quality businesses  making 
     partitioned,  bonded-core  bullets  for people who feel they want  both 
     features,  or  for people who want the partition and think it does  the 
     job  while actually the bonded core is what is making these bullets  so 
     good.
          To  use Core Bond,  swage your cores as  usual.   Then,  swab  the 
     inside  of  a group of jackets with Core Bond.   Use a liberal  amount.  
     Some  people use a cotton swab large enough to squeeze into the  jacket 
     and  thus wipe the entire inside in one pass.   Put the cores into  the 
     jackets.   They should fit closely but not so tightly that they have to 
     be  pressed in.   Use an eyedropper to put one more drop of  Core  Bond 
     down the gap between the core and jacket wall.
          If you have a small quantity to make,  you can use a propane torch 
     to  heat the jackets,  thus melting the lead inside and letting it form 
     an alloy with the jacket wall.   If you have many to make,  the  Corbin 
     HTO-2  furnace  (or the smaller HTO-1 for less frequent production)  is 
     the best way to apply controlled heat.  Raise the temperature enough to 
     melt the lead.  Then let the jacket cool.   Do NOT quench in water!
          Cautions:   First, do NOT lean over or look into the jackets while 
     you heat them.   If the core fits too tightly,  the gas pressure in the 
     base  will pop the core out of the jacket and splatter you with  molten 
     lead!   If your core does fit somewhat snugly in the jacket bottom, and 
     you experience a problem with the cores popping out,  then you may need 
     to  get a smaller core swage,  or at least rig up a screen to put  over 
     the top of your jackets to keep the core inside during heating.  
          Second,  be  careful with Core Bond.   It contains a strong  acid, 
     among other things,  which can cause blindness or painful burns to  the 
     skin.  Wash up spills immediately, and neutralize with baking soda.  Do 
     not  use Core Bond in aluminum or steel containers,  as it attacks them 
     quickly.  
          Batch  processing  of  bonded  cores  usually  involves  making  a 
     rack  out  of stainless steel mesh.   Water systems often use  a  wide-
     spaced  woven  stainless wire grid to keep foreign matter  out  of  the 
     intake.  If you can find some of this material, it is ideal for folding 
     into a rack to hold jackets upright, simply by placing them in the grid 
     holes.   Other  methods  involve making a rack (like a test tube  rack) 
     with aluminum blocks drilled with holes to support the  jackets.   Make 
     the  rack so it fits into the cavity of the HT0-2 oven without touching 
     the  sides.   About half an inch of space should be left  between  oven 
     walls and the first jacket. 
          You  can stack two such racks in the oven at one time,  with  most 
     jackets.   About  100 jackets can be bonded at one time this way.   But 
     even if you do them one at a time,  using a propane torch,  the bonding 
     process  is  fairly quick and well worth the  effort.   When  you  have 
     finished  and  the jackets are cool,  lubricate them well and seat  the 
     core in the normal manner.  If there is a surplus of black oxide at the 
     top of the core, you may wish to tumble the bonded cores and jackets or 
     vibrator polish them before going on.  Make certain that you do NOT use 
     any  abrasive  in your walnut shells,  if you plan to  seat  the  cores 
     after  polishing.   Abrasive particles will embed in the  jackets,  and 
     will quickly lap the dies at random, just as they are lapped on purpose 
     with brass and diamond.  
          

     CCB-2     Corbin Bore Cleaner, 2-ounce Sampler
     CCB-16    Corbin Bore Cleaner, 16-ounce (Pint) Can 
     CCB-128   Corbin Bore Cleaner, 128-ounce (Gallon) Can
          Some  of  the  top  shooters in the world have  stated  that  they 
     "couldn't have won without it".   That's very kind of them, but I think 
     they'd  win no matter what they used.    Still,  this cleaner  is  very 
     effective  and  much  different  from the others that  have  so  loudly 
     appeared and enjoyed a brief spotlight of publicity, then vanished.
          For the past twenty years, Corbin Bore Cleaner has been quietly at 
     work in the commercial gunshops,  in the gun rooms of top  competitors, 
     and in military and law enforcement armories,  removing rust,  leading, 
     powder  fouling,  plastic  from shotgun bores,  and copper traces  from 
     jacket fouling.  We haven't raised a big fuss about it:  it is just one 
     more  of those products waiting for the curious handloader to  discover 
     on his own.   When you do, you'll wonder why anyone is impressed by all 
     the  advertising  that floods the magazines and impresses  the  writers 
     concerning cleaners that promise to get "all the fouling out".
          Just try this some day:   clean your gun with anything else.  When 
     you think it is clean, dip a cloth patch in Corbin Bore Cleaner and run 
     it  down  the bore.   Look at the patch.   You'll see why  Corbin  Bore 
     Cleaner is one of the quiet secrets of many master shooters around  the 
     world.   Now,  if  you  like,  you can really clean your barrel with  a 
     couple more patches.   And then follow it up with one of the other fine 
     products  that  doesn't shout at you from every  magazine  article  and 
     page,  then  fade  into the night:   Hoppe's Number Nine!   No,  I  had 
     nothing to do with developing this and I don't sell it.   But it  works 
     very  well  as a follow-up to protect your bore and to remove the  last 
     traces of Corbin Bore Cleaner,  which holds the last traces of  fouling 
     in its grip. 
          Between Corbin Bore Cleaner,  Hoppe's Number Nine, Corbin Cleaning 
     Solvent,  and Corbin Gun Oil, you need nothing else to take expert care 
     of your firearms.  These four products will remove gunk and accumulated 
     grease,  clean out the bores and protect them, and apply a thin film of 
     protective oil to lubricate and preserve the metal.  


     CBL-2     Corbin Bore Lap, 2-ounce Bottle
          If  you have a badly rusted or pitted bore,  severe fouling,  or a 
     newly-cut barrel to be lapped,  this abrasive compound is formulated to 
     remove  as  little steel as possible while taking off  burrs  and  high 
     points,  and  anything that projects above the steel surface,  such  as 
     fouling.   The 40-micron particle size is fine enough not to scratch or 
     damage your bore, yet the disc-shaped particles align under pressure so 
     that  they  tend to act in one direction,  along the axis of the  bore, 
     rather  than  cutting  in all  directions  like  conventional  grinding 
     compounds.
          This  is a product for people who know how to lap bores,  not  for 
     casual use on a new barrel.   But if you have an old barrel and want to 
     try to save it, clean it up, and get it shooting reasonably well again, 
     a  good polishing with Corbin Bore Lap is worth a try.   (Try to remove 
     fouling  with Corbin Bore Cleaner first.   If that doesn't do  it,  try 
     anything else you care to spend money on to assure yourself that Corbin 
     Bore Cleaner really is the most powerful safe cleaner available.  Then, 
     when you are convinced that only lapping the bore can save it, use CBL-
     2.  If that doesn't do it, have it rebored!)


     FSO-16    Corbin Gun Oil, 16-ounce (Pint) Can
          There must be a good dozen gun oils on the market.   The reason we 
     offer  another  one is because it is probably the same  thing  you  are 
     already  purchasing in small lore to spend money on to assure yourself that Corbin 
     Bore Cleaner really is the most powerful safe cleaner available.  Then, 
     when you are convinced that only lapping the bore can save it, use CBL-
     2.  If that doesn't do it, have it rebored!)


     FSO-16    Corbin Gun Oil, 16-ounce (Pint) Can
          There must be a good dozen gun oils on the market.   The reason we 
     offer  another  one is because it is probably the same  thing  you  are 
     already  purchasing in small lo from Corbin,  in pint cans that give  you  more 
     gun oil (which is really high grade ISO-15 instrument and lathe spindle 
     oil)  for  the money.   You can wind up paying three times as much  per 
     ounce in the little cans.   So, save your last little can and refill it 
     yourself with Corbin Gun Oil in the bulk (pint) container!
          We recommend using this oil on moving parts of Corbin presses,  to 
     protect Corbin dies that are not going to be used for a while,  and for 
     your fine firearms.   We use it for our lathes and mills,   and general 
     purpose lubrication,  as well as packaging the dies with a few drops of 
     the preservative oil inserted into the poly packs.   


     CCS-16    Corbin Cleaning Solvent, 16-ounce (Pint) Can
          This  is  a  good general purpose clean-up  solvent  for  removing 
     fingerprints, grease, and oils from metal.  It is flammable, but not as 
     volatile as gasoline or alcohol.   It can be used to remove Corbin Bore 
     Cleaner  from  the  bore  after it has done its  job  of  removing  the 
     fouling,  if  you  would  rather use it  than  Hoppe's.   This  solvent 
     actually  pulls  oils from the surface of whatever it contacts,  so  it 
     will draw the natural oils from your skin as quickly as it removes  oil 
     from  metal.   I recommend using dishwasher gloves when degreasing  any 
     significant  number of gun parts,  and avoiding any unnecessary contact 
     with the skin.
          CCS-16  is  also  good for cleaning jackets  and  cores  prior  to 
     swaging,  to  remove any traces of lubrication inside the jacket or  on 
     the core.   (First you lubricate the core,  then swage it,  then remove 
     the  lube  completely  so there will be nothing between  the  core  and 
     jacket to prevent a close, non-slipping bond.)


     CHF-128   Corbin Hydraulic Fluid, 128-ounce (Gallon) Can
          Specially  formulated for the Corbin Hydro-press,  this  hydraulic 
     fluid stands up to hard use and is safe with the seal materials used in 
     the  valves  and cylinder of the CHP-1 series presses.   If you  should 
     lose  oil  from  moving the press or doing any work  on  its  hydraulic 
     circuits,  a  gallon  of CHF-128 is the right quantity for  most  minor 
     service  replacements.    The red gallon container makes a  nice  spare 
     gasoline can, too!


     SL-4      Silver Lube, 4-ounce Can
          Silver  Lube is a high temperature,  high pressure lubricant  that 
     can  stand up to 2000 degrees F.    It is used for extreme drawing jobs 
     such as heavy copper,  brass,  or steel tubing jacket manufacture,  for 
     certain kinds of swaging where regular swage lube is not suitable,  and 
     has  applications  where heat and pressure are  extreme.   It  prevents 
     rusting  and corrosion when used on lead moulds,  such as on the  pivot 
     points and sprue plates,  adjustments and mounting screws.   It is also 
     rather messy and turns everything silver,  including your hands!   When 
     you need it,  nothing else does the job.   Most of the time, if you can 
     use CSL-2 Corbin Swage Lube, it's a lot neater and easier to clean up. 
          Special  note for makers of bonded core bullets:   If you  form  a 
     bullet jacket using Silver Lube,  as recommended with most of the heavy 
     copper tubing jacket-makers, you must clean off every trace of the lube 
     before  trying  to  bond the core.   Silver Lube protects  the  surface 
     against  the action of Core Bond and prevents alloy formation with  the 
     lead  core.   Strong  solvents such as MEK or Tri-Chlor are  needed  to 
     remove the lube film.   Remember,  it takes heat to 2000 degrees F., so 
     there is no way to melt it off.


     WS-1      Walnut Shell Polishing Medium
          Corbin  packages  walnut  shells in the  correct  granulation  for 
     bullet polishing,  in one pound bags.   Two of these bags is just about 
     all you want to put into a 3-pound coffee can.  One is adequate.  Extra 
     bags are economical and will work in your tumbler as well as the  BPK-1 
     bullet polisher kit.
