.he CHAPTER 12 CORBIN HANDBOOK AND CATALOG NO. 7, PAGE #

                       SWAGE DIES of the MITY MITE SYSTEM 

          There are so many different styles, calibers, and kinds of bullets 
     possible  in  the  Mity Mite system,  that it isn't practical  to  list 
     "kits" or tables of standard bullets you can make.   If it falls in the 
     range of .14 to .458 caliber,  with a weight not over 450 grains, and a 
     length not to exceed 1.3 inches base to tip,  you can probably make  it 

     in the Mity Mite.
          In  the  realm  of jacket making,  the Mity Mite system  can  form 
     copper   tubing  into  excellent  jackets  with  limitations  to   wall 
     thickness:   the  standard thickness offered is 0.030-inch,  in  copper 
     tubing.   Steel,  brass,  or  thicker walls are not practical  in  this 
     system, but require the power of the Corbin Hydro-press system.  
          If  I  were to suggest a good starting package for  the  beginning 
     bullet maker, it would usually consist of the following items:

          (1)  One or more Mity Mite presses (CSP-1)
          (2)  A set of dies in the style desired (normally, FJFB-3-M)
          (3)  A bottle of Corbin Swage Lube (CSL-2 or CSL-16)
          (4)  A jacket supply...
               which could be one of these:
               
               (a)  A CTJM-1-M tubing jacket maker (.030-wall)
               (b)  A quantity of Corbin bullet jackets (usually, 1000)
               (c)  A rimfire jacket-maker (RFJM-22M or RFJM-6MM)
               (d)  A sub-cal jacket drawing die set (JRD-1-M, one each
                      for .20, .17, and .14 draws)
               (e)  No jackets -- for lead bullets
               (f)  A JRD-1-M jacket reducer and supply of next-larger
                      jackets, where required
          (5)  A lead core supply...
               which could be one of these:

               (a)  Lead wire (LW-25) and core cutter (PCS-1)
               (b)  Core mould (CM-4)
               (c)  Sub-cal extruder (LED-2) kit  

          These  are  all you really need to consider.   There are  optional 
     items  that  I might want,  having been through it  all  before.   They 
     simply  make  life  a bit easier and  produce  better  bullets.   These 
     optional items include:

          (1)  Cannelure tool (HCT-1)
          (2)  Bullet polisher kit (BPK-1)
          (3)  Dip Lube (CDL-16) to preserve finish, or for lead bullets.
          (4)  Instrument grade lubricating oil (FSO-16) to preserve dies
          (5)  Cleaning solvent (CCS-16) for dies and bullets
          (6)  Core Bond (CCB-16) to make bonded core bullets
          (7)  Extra floating punch holders (FPH-1-M)
          (8)  Extra ejection pins (PUNCH-M, specify caliber, internal PF,
                 and/or actual diameter if known)

          As to exactly WHICH size of jacket,  mould,  lead wire, or die set 
     model to get,  you can just indicate the weight and style of bullet you 
     want to make,  either with a sketch,  a sample,  or reference to one of 
     the drawings or photos in any Corbin book (give title and page number).  
     The  die-maker will work out the correct combination to get  where  you 
     want to go, using the closest available materials.  
          That  still leaves you a bit in the dark as to which of  the  many 
     sets  of  dies will make the bullets you want.   Here is  a  check-list 
     describing  many general kinds of bullets,  and the dies that will make 
     them:

          A.  LEAD BULLETS WITH SMALL SHOULDER BEFORE START OF NOSE
               (1) Use LSWC-1-M single die set
               (2) Specify caliber  
               (3) Specify base shape:
                    a.  Flat Base (standard)
                    b.  Dish Base (shallow concave from side to side)
                    c.  Cup Base (flat margin around deeper concave portion)
                    d.  Hollow Base (more than 1/2 caliber deep cavity)
               (4) Specify nose shape:
                    a.  Keith Nose (standard for handgun)
                    b.  Round Nose
                    c.  Wadcutter Nose
                    d.  Conical Nose
                    e.  Hollow Point (a universal HP, used with any above)
                    f.  1-E (1-cal. long eliptical, standard for rifle)
               (5)  Specify weight range desired (max. 450 gr.)

          B.  LEAD BULLETS WITH NO SHOULDER BEFORE START OF NOSE
               (1) Use CSW-1-M and PF-1-M (core swage and point form dies)
               (2) Specify caliber
               (3) Specify ogive radius or nose shape
                    a. Tangential ogives from 0.5 to 10-S (6-S standard)
                    b. Spire point (12-degree standard)
                    c. Round Nose (same as .5-S or .5-E shape)
                    d. Eliptical ogive from .5-E to 2-E (1-E standard)
                    e. TC (truncated conical - standard handgun)
                    f. Dual-diameter, other special form (send sketch)
               (4) Specify base shape (same as in A.)
               (5) Specify weight range desired (max. 450 gr.)

          C.  JACKETED SEMI-WADCUTTER OR WADCUTTER
               (1) Use JSWC-1-M (core swage and core seater)
               (2) Specify caliber
               (3) Specify Nose shape (same as A.)
               (4) Specify Base shape (same as A.)
               (5) Specify weight range (max. 450 gr.)
               (6) Specify jacket (Corbin size, or send sample)     

          D.  FULL JACKET, OPEN TIP OR HANDGUN SOFT POINT, OR FMJ OPEN BASE
               (1) Use FJFB-3-M (core swage, core seater, and point form)  
               (2) Specify caliber
               (3) Specify ogive radius or nose shape (same as B.)
               (4) Specify Base shape (same as A.)
               (5) Specify weight range (max. 450 gr.)
               (6) Specify jacket (Corbin size, or send sample)

          E.  FULL JACKET, LEAD TIP RIFLE OGIVES
               (1) Use LTFB-4-M (as in D. but with lead tip die added)
               (2) Specify all items as in D.
               (3) Specify tip shape
                    a. flat
                    b. spitzer (sharp point to match PF-1-M die shape)
                    c. semi-spitzer (radius at tip)
                    d. round
              
          F.  REBATED BOATTAIL OPEN TIP RIFLE STYLE
               (1) Use RBTO-4-M (core swage, RBT-2 set, point form)
               (2) Specify all items as in D.

          G.  REBATED BOATTAIL AND FLAT BASE, OPEN TIP RIFLE STYLE
               (1) Use FRBO-5-M (3-die set with RBT-2 set added)
               (2) Specify all items as in D.

          H.  REBATED BOATTAIL WITH LEAD OR OPEN TIP
               (1) Use FRBL-5-M (same as F. with LT-1-M added)
               (2) Specify all items as in E.

          I.  REBATED BOATTAIL or FLAT BASE, LEAD or OPEN TIP (all style)
               (1) Use FRBL-6-M (complete set of all dies)
               (2) Specify all items as in E.

          Note that each set of dies simply adds additional kinds of dies to 
     one of the more simple sets.   You don't lose any capability as you  go 
     up in versatility.   The only decision that might be somewhat difficult 
     is  between  a LSWC-1-M lead semi-wadcutter die and a JSWC-2-M  two-die 
     set for either jacketed or lead semi-wadcutters.  The LSWC-1-M is a bit 
     faster if you are certain that you don't want to make jacketed bullets.  
     But the JSWC-2-M set handles both kinds well.   
          The  FJFB-3-M  and all higher sets still preserve the  ability  to 
     make  lead bullets or semi-wadcutters,  provided you order the  desired 
     nose punch to fit into the core seating die.  The exception is that the 
     RBTO-4-M  and the RBTL-4-M do not have a standard core seating die  for 
     flat  base  bullets.   They cannot make a  conventional  handgun  style 
     without a rebated boattail, since there is no die included to do it.
          When you order a die set for rifle calibers, and we know it is for 
     a  rifle  caliber,  we  provide a punch to fit INSIDE  the  jacket  you 
     specify (and if it isn't one of ours, we need samples or we cannot make 
     the  dies).   Rifle style implies that the jacket will curve around the 
     ogive like a rifle bullet jacket.   It is very popular for open tip  or 
     soft point handgun bullets, not just for rifle calibers. 
          A  more limited handgun style is the semi-wadcutter.   This  is  a 
     generic term to the die-maker, not a specific shape.  It means that the 
     bullet  has a nose made of lead,  with the jacket stopping short of the 
     ogive,  so  there can be a shoulder where the end of  the  nose-forming 
     punch  presses  against the lead.   In a rifle-style set with  a  point 
     forming  die,  there is NO nose-forming punch:   the point forming  die 
     itself controls the shape of the ogive and nose.  
          
          


                           INDIVIDUAL DIE DESCRIPTIONS


     CSW-1-M   Core Swage Die, Mity Mite
               This is the first die in most sets,  except for the LSWC-1-M.  
     In the lead semi-wadcutter set, the single die performs the function of 
     the core swage and the core seater in one operation,  since it operates 
     on  lead and has no jacket.   It is,  in essence,  a core swage made to 
     final diameter,  and fitted with nose and base punches.   The true core 
     swage  die  has  flat-ended punches,  and is used only  to  adjust  the 
     diameter and length,  roundness and weight of the raw lead  core.   The 
     core  swage die has bleed holes through which surplus lead is  extruded 
     to adjust the weight on each stroke.
          Core  swage  dies are made to a diameter which accepts a  standard 
     size of lead core, and increases it to a close fit to the proper jacket 
     size.  Since jacket wall thickness can be selected from a wide range of 
     jackets,  including tubing or thin rimfire case jackets, the core swage 
     must be matched to the jacket wall as well as caliber.   Some sets  use 
     more  than  one  core  swage,  to allow changing  to  different  jacket 
     thicknesses.  


     LSWC-1-M  Lead Semi-wadcutter Die, Mity Mite
               A  special form of core swage,  in which the bore diameter is 
     made  final bullet size and the punches are made to form the  base  and 
     nose shape.  This die operates on lead or half jacket bullets only.  It 
     is  faster than using a two-die set such as the JSWC-1-M,  but is  less 
     versatile since it does not handle a 3/4-jacket.


     CS-1-M    Core Seating Die, Mity Mite
               The  core  seater can form a finished handgun bullet  of  the 
     semi-wadcutter  style (or wadcutter style) either with or  without  the 
     use  of a core swage to adjust the core weight.   Combined with a  core 
     swage,  it  makes up the JSWC-2-M jacketed semi-wadcutter set.    It is 
     always  used  prior to forming the ogive on an open tip or  soft  point 
     bullet,  in  order to generate enough internal pressure to  expand  the 
     jacket and form a straight, round shank on the bullet.


     RBT-2-M   Rebated Boattail 2-Die Set, Mity Mite
               The  rebated  boattail  set consists of a pair of  dies  that 
     replace the regular CS-1-M core seater.  The jacket (ordinary flat base 
     type) is put into the first die, which is called the preform or BT die. 
     The  core is pushed into the jacket.   A punch enters the mouth of  the 
     jacket  and  presses on the core,  expanding the jacket to  fit  snugly 
     against  the  die walls.   The base of the die cavity  has  a  boattail 
     shape, which transfers to the jacket base.
          The  second die of this set has very closely matched diameter  and 
     taper  to the first die.   It also has a shoulder or edge machined into 
     the cavity.   The smoothly tapered jacket from the first die is  placed 
     in the finishing,  or RBT die (second die).  The same external punch is 
     used to push on the lead core,  creating internal pressure that presses 
     the tapered base against the shoulder in the die.   A rebate or step is 
     created in the jacket from this internal pressure.
          The  seated core and jacket are now ejected and put into the point 
     forming die to be completed.   The regular core seating die (CS-1-M) is 
     not used when making a RBT bullet.


     PF-1-M    Point Forming Die, Mity Mite
               The  point forming die has the actual bullet  shape  machined 
     into its interior cavity.   It does NOT use a nose forming punch, as in 
     the CS-1-M or LSWC-1-M dies,  but has a small spring-steel ejection pin 
     in a tiny hole at the tip of the die.   The seated core and jacket from 
     the core seating die (CS-1-M) or from the RBT-2 die set is put open-end 
     first  into  the PF-1-M die (to make open tip or soft  points),  and  a 
     full-caliber-size punch that fits into the point forming die presses on 
     the bullet base to shape the ogive.
          It  is not advisable to make the complete bullet in this die only, 
     except for full-jacket,  open-base styles.  The reason is that this die 
     does not form a sealed system,  as with the core seating die, since one 
     end  is  virtually open during forming.   The pressure within  the  die 
     tapers  from  base  to ogive in a complex pattern  depending  on  ogive 
     shape,  and  is  not  normally capable of expanding  the  jacket  shank 
     properly  by itself.   That is why the core seating die  pre-forms  the 
     shank prior to using this die.
          Several  different bullet shapes can be made with the same die set 
     by  purchasing  various point forming dies.   The match  of  the  point 
     forming  die  to  the core seater is extremely  critical.   Samples  of 
     seated cores are required to make another point forming die for a given 
     set.   It is normally best to order additional styles of point  forming 
     dies with the original set,  but with sample seated cores or the return 
     of the set, a new point forming die can be matched to the core seater.


     LT-1-M    Lead Tip Forming Die, Mity Mite
               The  lead  tip die shapes the exposed lead at the tip of  the 
     bullet after the bullet has been formed in the point forming  die.   It 
     is  normally  used only for sharp rifle ogives,  not for blunt  handgun 
     shapes.   When the tip of the bullet must be smaller than the  diameter 
     of the ejection pin required for a given caliber,  the lead tip die can 
     be  used  as a finisher to bring the tip slightly more  closed,  or  to 
     shape  the  exposed lead into a proper point after the ejection pin  in 
     the point forming die has deformed it during ejection.
          A lead tip die can be added to any set,  provided that the set has 
     a point forming die.  Lead tip dies are not used with JSWC-1-M or LSWC-
     1-M  sets.   A lead tip die cannot be used by itself to form a  bullet.  
     It  must act as a "clean-up" die for the tip of bullets formed  in  the 
     point  forming  die.   The  internal punch of the lead tip die  can  be 
     changed to various shapes, in order to make flat tip, blunt round tips, 
     semi-spitzer or sharp spitzer lead tips.  
          A  benefit of the lead tip die is that one can use a  sharp  ogive 
     point forming die,  and yet produce a good-looking flat tip.   This can 
     be desirable with a .308-caliber set, where bullets for .30-06 and .300 
     Winchester  can  be  made at the same time as bullets for  the  tubular 
     action .30-30, by finishing the .30-30 bullets with the LT-1-M die.



                              MATCHED SETS OF DIES


     LSWC-1-M  Lead Semi-wadcutter 1-die Set, Mity Mite
          A  "set" can be any number of dies,  including one,  as long as it 
     makes  a  completed bullet without the need of other dies  or  punches.  
     The LSWC-1-M is listed here because it forms a complete  semi-wadcutter 
     style  bullet  (or  a wadcutter,  or a lead rifle bullet with  a  small 
     shoulder between the ogive and the shank).  Normally the external punch 
     forms  the nose and the internal punch forms the  base,  especially  in 
     handgun bullets.   Some rifle bullets are made using the internal punch 
     to form the nose.  
          Remember  that  the  external punch fits into the  floating  punch 
     holder, a threaded cylinder which fits into the press head and does all 
     the  adjusting for die volume and bullet weight (as a  direct  result).  
     The internal punch remains in the die,  and is operated by the geometry 
     of  the ram,  sliding back to allow maximum bullet weight while sealing 
     off the threaded end of the die against swaging pressure,  and  sliding 
     forward to eject the bullet.
          The LSWC-1-M is normally stocked in .25 ACP,  .308", .312", .314", 
     .355",  .357",  .358", .400", .410", .429", .452", and .458" diameters.  
     It  can  be ordered in any diameter between .14 and .458 as  a  special 
     order.   Normal  punches  are either flat,  cup,  or hollow  base,  and 
     wadcutter,  Keith semi-wadcutter,  round nose, conical, or hollow point 
     (a  universal and very deep hollow cavity punch that can be  used  with 
     any  of  the  other punches to  produce  interesting  results).   Rifle 
     calibers  normally are made with a one-caliber-length,  eliptical round 
     nose, and either a flat or cup base.
          The  LSWC-1-M is made for soft lead.   It can handle  hard  alloys 
     without  breaking if you are very careful,  but it is folly to use them 
     in calibers over about .314" diameter.   It is not the hardness of  the 
     alloy that breaks a swage die:  it is the fact that the operator pushes 
     too hard trying to make the hard alloy flow and fill out the die.   You 
     are perfectly safe in using hard lead if you don't push any harder than 
     you  would for soft lead.   But that amount of force may not be  enough 
     for  the hard alloy to flow.    Hard lead by itself does no harm to the 
     die. 
          If you use a .44 caliber die or larger,  it is almost a  certainty 
     that sooner or later you will break the die if hard lead is used.  Dies 
     broken  by  excess pressure are the responsibility of the operator  who 
     applied  the  pressure.   Old Theodore Smith,  a pioneer of  swage  die 
     manufacture  and,  prior to the growth of the Corbin firm,  one of  the 
     largest suppliers of swage dies in the world, used to say that he ought 
     to  write  his instructions to read "jump on the handle with  all  your 
     might,  then remove the die you just ruined and send it and a check for 
     a new one to the die-maker".           
          Anyone  who  has  ever broken a swage die says  "...but  I  wasn't 
     applying THAT much pressure!   It felt about like it always does,  then 
     the die broke!"  With a little more experience,  it is easy to feel the 
     little bit of excess force that breaks a die.  A swage die for the Mity 
     Mite press can handle 171,745 psi in .224 caliber,  and 103,548 psi  in 
     .458  caliber.   That  is the ultimate strength.   A tiny bit more  and 
     CRACK!   When  the  press is adjusted to go "over  center",  using  the 
     nearly  infinite  leverage of the short stroke  system,  it  is  easily 
     possible  to generate pressures over 200,000 psi.   Use only enough  so 
     that soft lead -- pure,  soft lead -- forms correctly.  If a hard alloy 
     can be formed with that pressure, wonderful.  But if it refuses to form 
     without  "a  little bit more",  then check your replacement  die  funds 
     before proceeding to apply it!  
          This  friendly  warning  applies to any of the  dies,  but  it  is 
     especially  true with the LSWC-1 since many people order these in large 
     calibers  and  want to make alloy bullets.   If you  truely  need  hard 
     alloys,  I  strongly suggest that you consider the Hydro-press dies and 
     either the Hydro-press itself,  or the Mega Mite press.   The Mega Mite 
     doesn't  always  have enough leverage for hard alloys  in  the  largest 
     calibers,  but  it makes a good .50 caliber soft lead bullet and it can 
     handle hard alloys in any caliber without breaking the die.  The Hydro-
     press  never says never.   It just idles along while  swaging  linotype 
     alloy,  and  yawns with boredom when you try to challenge it with  jobs 
     that leave hand press dies in a pile of rubble.  

          
     JSWC-2-M  Jacketed Semi-wadcutter 2-die Set, Mity Mite
          The  job of making jacketed or lead bullets in two steps,  instead 
     of  one  like the LSWC-1-M,  means you can use jackets that  cover  the 
     sides of the bullet.  These would normally block the bleed holes on the 
     LSWC-1-M.   If you plan to make both lead and jacketed semi-wadcutters, 
     this is the right choice.   It consists of both a core swage and a core 
     seating die.  The core swage is made to produce a lead core to fit into 
     the normal jacket used in the caliber.   The core seater is made  final 
     diameter for the bullet, and has nose and base punches.
          Some  people  want a bevel base bullet,  a boattail bullet,  or  a 
     round  nose with no step between shank and ogive.    These  things  can 
     only be approximated in the straight-walled core seater die.   The nose 
     punch  does  not have an invisible,  razor-sharp edge.   It  has  about 
     0.020-inches of metal at the edge.  This lets it last for your lifetime 
     and  probably that of your grandchildren,  instead of wearing away in a 
     few bullets.  It also means there has to be a step or shoulder of about 
     0.020-inch depth between the nose (formed in the punch cavity) and  the 
     shank (formed against the die wall).
          I  see little point in the bevel base in this kind of  die,  since 
     the  shoulder  made  necessary by the punch really  doesn't  solve  the 
     problem  of  getting  the bullet easily into the case  mouth.   A  very 
     slight bell to the case mouth solves it.  If you want a true bevel, get 
     the next die set.   It has a point forming die,  which has NO  internal 
     punch  (in the normal sense of forming the bullet nose),  but forms the 
     bullet  against die wall all the way to the end.   You can reverse  the 
     bullet  and tap in into the die lightly (with a precise  adjustment  of 
     the punch holder,  this is more repeatable than I made it sound).  This 
     gives  you a perfectly formed bevel or taper on the base,  very  slight 
     but also very streamlined and adequate to align the bullet in the case.


     FJFB-3-M  Full Jacket, Flat Base 3-die Set, Mity Mite
          This is the workhorse of the system.   More of these sets are made 
     and  sold  than any other.   That is because they do what  most  people 
     want,  making lead bullets,  semi-wadcutter bullets,  or fully-jacketed 
     bullets of either open base or open point style.  
          When  we  say  full jacketed bullet,  it can  mean  two  different 
     things.   Most people mean a military full jacket with open base, which 
     is  formed  by  putting the base of the bullet jacket  into  the  point 
     forming die first, instead of the open end going in first.  But handgun 
     people  often  use the term full jacket to mean that the jacket  curves 
     around  the  ogive,  covering part or all of  the  nose  section.   The 
     alternative is the three-quarter jacket, or the half-jacket design.  
          A  three-quarter jacket bullet is the kind that is formed when you 
     use the JSWC-2-M set and a jacket that covers the shank completely, but 
     leaves  the lead nose to be formed in the punch cavity.   The  JSWC-2-M 
     die  set can't bring the jacket up around the nose at all,  not even  a 
     tiny bit.   This is because the edge of the punch which forms the  nose 
     in that set strikes the edge of the jacket, unless you have enough lead 
     to completely fill the punch cavity.
          A half-jacket bullet has half its shank covered by jacket and half 
     the  shank  made of exposed lead (as well as the entire  nose).   Half-
     jacket  bullets  are not really much better than lead ones  as  far  as 
     velocity and fouling are concerned.   But half-jackets still make great 
     short, light bullets in a 3/4-jacket style!  Confused?  
          Look at it this way:  there are names we give the jackets that are 
     based  on the normal bullet weight made in that jacket,  and then there 
     are  the  names we give bullets regardless of weight.   If you  make  a 
     light bullet in a short jacket,  it can have the whole shank covered by 
     jacket.   And  then,  it is a 3/4-jacket bullet even if the jacket  was 
     originally made for 1/2-jacket designs.   Conversely,  if you use a so-
     called "full" length jacket for a handgun,  and make a normal weight of 
     rifle bullet (such as using a 0.7-inch long .38 handgun jacket to  make 
     a 250 grain .358 rifle bullet), you really wind up with what amounts to 
     a half-jacketed bullet.  
          So,  if  you want to play with unusual weights (and I say,  go for 
     it!   Why  not explore it all since swaging gives you the power  to  do 
     so?)  you  may wind up having to order jackets by their catalog  number 
     and forget about what the rest of the world considers that jacket  good 
     for making.  The terms half, three-quarter, and full jacket are a crude 
     approximation,  anyway.   We'd  be better off without them.   Length in 
     inches is much more precise.
          The  three-die set (FJFB-3-M) has a core swage and a core  seater, 
     but  the  core seater usually is made just slightly (0.0005  to  0.0001 
     inch) smaller than if you were to order the same caliber in a JSWC-1-M.  
     Does this mean you can't add a point forming die to a JSWC-1-M and thus 
     produce a new set exactly like a FJFB-3?  
          No,  but the die-maker should either get the set back or should be 
     given several lead slugs swaged in the core seating die.   Then he  can 
     use the slugs,  or the die set itself, to make a point forming die that 
     is 0.0005 to 0.0001 inches larger than the core seater!  One way or the 
     other,  there  needs  to  be a microscopic difference to  allow  proper 
     ejection  of the final bullet.   Remember that swaging is a process  of 
     upward  expansion  to  meet the die walls.   Shoving a bullet  that  is 
     already  at final diameter into the same diameter of die is  a  formula 
     for stuck bullets and difficult ejection.
          While  we  are  on  the subject,  let  me  comment  that  diameter 
     differences of even 0.001 inch make very little difference in where the 
     bullets  will  group,  provided  all  the bullets fired  are  the  same 
     diameter.   In  the real world,  you can get away with shooting a  .309 
     bullet  in a .308 barrel and probably win the Nationals either  because 
     of or in spite of it,  and everyone else will rush out to buy the  same 
     kind  of oversize bullet once you do it.   What counts is  consistency, 
     not absolute size.   On the other hand,  you can get considerably worse 
     groups  if the bullets are 0.001 inch smaller than bore  size.   So,  I 
     usually recommend the nominal size, or larger.
          The  FJFB-3-M set makes soft points (provided the die is made with 
     a handgun kind of ogive or a flat tip,  and is not brought to a spitzer 
     point  cavity) as well as open tip,  open base (full metal  jacket)  as 
     well  as  open point,  and hollow points (which are made with a  hollow 
     point punch during the core seating operation) as well as open points.
          An open point has the jacket longer than the core.  A hollow point 
     has  a hole poked into the lead core.   You can combine  both.   To  do 
     this,  the  core seating punch has a projection on its face that  makes 
     the  cavity  in the lead core,  and it also fits inside the  jacket.  A 
     normal  hollow point punch fits the die bore,  so that only  the  probe 
     fits into the jacket.  Most hollow points are also lead tips.  
          The usual kind of punches supplied with the FJFB-3-M set depend on 
     whether  it  is  a  rifle or handgun  caliber.   Most  rifle  dies  are 
     purchased to make open tip bullets, so a core seating punch with a flat 
     face,  fitting  inside  the selected jacket,  is  provided.   The  base 
     punches  (internal core seating,  and external point forming) are  flat 
     faced.   The  handgun  sets  normally have a Keith or  a  hollow  point 
     external punch with the core seater,  and flat base punches in the core 
     seater and with the point former.  
          However,  just  because  the simple way to name this set  required 
     using the term "Flat Base",  don't be confused with the optional  bases 
     you  can  make.   Any kind of base that can be formed by  pressing  the 
     bullet base against a punch is perfectly suitable for this set.  A dish 
     base, a cup base, or a hollow base set of punches (meaning, one for the 
     inside of the core seater,  and one for the outside of the point former 
     to  match it) will convert the set from flat base to any of these other 
     base styles. 
          Flat  base is used here to differentiate the set from the  Rebated 
     Boattail  sets.   Those sets have a different kind of core seater  die:  
     in fact,  they have two dies to replace the one flat base core  seater.  
     If you want to make bullets for longest range shooting,  or if you want 
     to experiment with low velocity,  high efficiency bullets even at close 
     range  (where  the  speed  during flight will  approach  or  cross  the 
     transonic  region at Mach I) then I would suggest the rebated  boattail 
     sets that follow.  But first, a word for the lead tip bullet....


     LTFB-4-M  Lead Tip, Flat Base 4-die Set, Mity Mite
          You  can  make lead tips with a three-die set,  provided that  the 
     ogive is blunt enough to allow extremely easy ejection.   The  ejection 
     pin pushes on the lead tip, and with sharper ogives (such as the normal 
     rifle  styles  other  than round noses) the pin pushes  into  the  lead 
     because  it  usually  takes  a  bit more pressure  than  the  lead  can 
     withstand to eject a very pointed bullet.  
          The  result is a deformed blob of lead at the tip of  the  bullet.  
     To reshape this into a neat lead tip, and possibly to shear off surplus 
     lead,  the  LT-1-M  die  is added to the set.   If you  wish,  you  can 
     purchase  the LT-1-M separately and make any open tip set into  a  lead 
     tip  set.   Or,  you  can purchase the set together under the  LTFB-4-M 
     catalog  number.   This  set makes all the bullets that the  3-die  set 
     makes,  plus  good  lead tips.   Good lead tip bullets  take  a  little 
     experimenting, to get the right amount of exposed lead.
          Too much exposed lead usually doesn't hurt anything.   Too little, 
     and  you won't have enough to fill the cavity in the internal punch  of 
     the lead tip die.  The tips don't completely form, as a result.  A very 
     light  pressure  is  required.   If you apply too much,  you'll  put  a 
     shoulder in the jacket just below the tip from pressing the punch  edge 
     against the jacket.   The right amount of lead for the length of jacket 
     used places some limits on the weight of bullet that will work properly 
     and form a good lead tip.   Some combinations of jacket length and core 
     weight  don't form a good lead tip in certain shapes of bullets,  which 
     you will find out quickly by experimenting.  But a few grains more lead 
     hurts nothing, and gives the results you want.


     RBTO-4-M  Rebated Boattail Open Tip 4-die Set, Mity Mite
          Here is the set for the long-range target shooter.   If you  shoot 
     high power rifle with a capital HP,  meaning serious matches with a .30 
     caliber,  then  you  should  consider the lower  drag  coefficient  and 
     consequent shorter time of flight of the RBT design.   The rebate gives 
     you  an  edge in accuracy at the muzzle,  deflecting the  muzzle  blast 
     gasses to the side so that they do not flow along the streamline of the 
     bullet and break up in front of it.
          If you plan to make survival bullets,  or copper tubing bullets, I 
     usually  feel that the slight gain in ballistic coefficient isn't worth 
     the extra cost and trouble of making these bullets.   There is one more 
     step involved, and with tubing it is a little more difficult to produce 
     as good a bullet as with flat base styles.   It can be done,  and it is 
     practical, but most situations involving bullets at more than twice the 
     speed of sound just don't benefit enough from the base design to bother 
     with any extra trouble.
          This  set  doesn't  have  a regular flat  base  core  seating  die 
     included.  It makes rebated boattails, of the open tip style, only.  It 
     doesn't usually make FMJ styles,  but you can use the point forming die 
     alone  and  make a pretty good open base full jacket  "military"  style 
     bullet with a flat base.   Making an open base rebated boattail is  not 
     practical with this equipment, nor does it have any advantage since the 
     open tip is usually more accurate and easier to produce.


     FRBO-5-M  Flat or Rebated Boattail, Open Tip 5-die Set, Mity Mite
          This  set adds a regular core seating die to the previous one,  so 
     you  can make either flat base or rebated boattails with the same  set.  
     It is better to purchase this set together rather than adding on, since 
     the  die-maker can match the diameters better when he has all the  dies 
     in one place at the same time.  
          This set makes it easier to get a wide range of weights.   A  flat 
     base  design lets you get lower weights in the same ogive shape,  and a 
     rebated boattail lets you get lower weights for the same jacket length.  
     A  flat  base gives you the ability to make heavier weights  using  the 
     same jacket length.   If you have a "universal" caliber like the  .308, 
     which  can  produce anything from an 80 grain .32 ACP bullet to  a  220 
     grain .300 Magnum slug, then this is a pretty good choice in die sets.


     RBTL-5-M  Rebated Boattail Lead Tip 5-die Set, Mity Mite
          This  set  just  substitutes a lead tip forming die for  the  core 
     seating die, which means you can make either open tip target bullets or 
     lead tip hunting bullets, but only with the rebated boattail base.  The 
     reason  for a person buying this set is to use the same kind of  bullet 
     that  he  normally uses in his target shooting,  and with which  he  is 
     presumably quite familiar, in a soft point hunting bullet.
          The  odds  are that the high power shooter who does  take  such  a 
     bullet (and,  of course,  the familiar cartridge and powder combination 
     to  fit  it) afield after game with a properly-sighted  hunting  rifle, 
     probably  has  a  much better chance of coming home with meat  for  the 
     freezer  than someone who uses a completely different caliber than  his 
     usual, more familiar target experience requires.
          The  boattail  design  probably doesn't add much  to  the  hunting 
     success,  but it doesn't hurt.   It's contribution is familiarity:   if 
     you fire thousands of the same kind of bullet,  less the lead  tip,  at 
     200,  300,  600,  and  perhaps  1000 yard targets in all kinds of  wind 
     conditions, then chances are better that you can connect with a similar 
     bullet  and  load even if the range is less certain and the  target  is 
     moving.   The range is probably 60 yards to 200 yards,  more than  half 
     the  time,  and  the  bullet is going so fast it doesn't have  time  to 
     notice its tail in that range,  but the shooter has a good feel for the 
     drop and knows better how to hold for wind.  


     FRBL-6-M  All Style 6-die Set, Mity Mite
          Whatever you need,  you can probably make it with this package  of 
     dies.  Many people go for this one simply because "you never know" what 
     you might want to try.  That's not a bad reason.  If you have the dies, 
     you  can try things that you might otherwise never get around to doing.  
     And  dies  are  a good investment:   they don't seem to  get  any  less 
     expensive with the passing of time.   If you think there is much chance 
     you'll  want to make a variety of different purpose bullets in a  given 
     caliber, this is the right choice.  
          On the other hand,  most handgun bullets can be produced just fine 
     with a 3-die set.  There isn't much point in having either the lead tip 
     die or the rebated boattail dies for a .357 Magnum or a .45 ACP,  since 
     there  are tricks that let you make as good a boattail as anyone  could 
     possibly use on these bullets,  with the ordinary 3-die  package.   And 
     lead tips on blunt handgun bullets don't usually require the LT-1-M die 
     because  the  short  bullet length and blunt taper make  ejection  easy 
     enough that the broad lead tip doesn't deform. 
          If you have rifle calibers in mind, and want to go first class, by 
     all means give the 6-die set some consideration.  Even if you don't use 
     all the dies often, they will be ready when you do need them.



                              SPECIAL DIES FOR THE MITY MITE

          Draw dies have already been discussed.   In the Mity Mite  system, 
     you  can get sets of dies to reduce the bullet or the jacket  diameter.  
     The  punch fits into the press ram,  and the die replaces the  floating 
     punch  holder  in  the press head.   This is just the opposite  of  the 
     normal  swaging set (where the die screws into the press ram,  and  the 
     external punch is held in the floating punch holder, in the head of the 
     press).  For details on these dies, turn to the chapter on Draw Dies.
          A unique die set for the Mity Mite is the LED-2 Lead Extruder  Die 
     Set.   This  set solves a problem for the maker of sub-caliber bullets:  
     how to produce lead cores for the tiny .14,  .17 and .20 bullets.  Lead 
     wire is available,  but a normal 175,000 grain spool makes more bullets 
     than  a  person  could shoot in a reasonable  time.   Core  casting  is 
     possible, but very tedious with such tiny core diameters.
          The LED-2 outfit uses a standard .44/.45 caliber lead  core,  cast 
     in  a  .365-inch  diameter core mould.   You can also use  a  cast  .38 
     bullet, if you wish.   Cast these more reasonable sized slugs, and then 
     put them into the mouth of the extruder die.  Run the press ram forward 
     with the extruder punch screwed into the press ram.   Adjust the die so 
     that  you  can easily apply enough pressure to spurt lead wire out  the 
     end of the die, like toothpaste from a tube.  
          The extruder die comes with die inserts for making .20,  .17,  and 
     .14 caliber wire.    The insert can be changed easily.   Lubrication on 
     the cast slug is essential for easy operation.   This outfit is made to 
     extrude  soft lead only.   Hard alloys usually don't extrude well in  a 
     hand press or,  for that matter,  a power press.  I would not own a set 
     of  sub-caliber  dies without the LED-2 outfit to make my  own  sub-cal 
     wire.   It  is more economical,  easy and satisfactory that  any  other 
     method  except  perhaps  for buying a spool of wire to pass on  to  the 
     grandchildren (especially in .14 caliber).
          Dual  diameter  bullets can be made in a special  order  die  that 
     combines  the functions of a core seater and a draw die.   I don't even 
     have  a catalog number for this one,  but just call it a  special.   It 
     fits the press ram like a core seater,  but has a dual inside diameter.  
     It  acts like a draw die,  in that you press your finished bullet  into 
     the die and the forward portion is reduced by the depth of the  rifling 
     (usually  about  0.008 inches total reduction).   A punch matching  the 
     ogive pushes the bullet back out on the ejection stroke of the press.
          This kind of die is somewhat expensive to produce, and is never in 
     stock (being made specifically for experimental applications and custom 
     bullets),  but  it  does allow certain advantages over  a  conventional 
     bullet design.   First, the reduced nose section rides atop the rifling 
     and  reduces friction in the barrel.   This means you get higher speeds 
     and less pressure at maximum loads.  Second, the amount of reduced nose 
     section is adjustable so you can set your own freebore,  even in a  gun 
     without  any barrel freebore.   It is like having a  non-rifled,  bore-
     sized guide section built on the bullet instead of in the gun barrel.
          The  advantage is that you can retain the accuracy you  need,  yet 
     still get higher powder charges and more velocity, and at the same time 
     you can use a heavier or longer bullet than the gun and cartridge would 
     normally feed and chamber.  Feeding through the magazine is a different 
     problem:   this doesn't help in that department.   But feeding into the 
     barrel  is no longer a problem in regard to the amount of  freebore  in 
     your gun.   If the bolt would not close before because the rifling came 
     up against the longer bullet too soon, you can make it work now.
          For want of a better name, I just call this a "dual-diameter" draw 
     die.  We also make point forming dies that swage the bullet with a dual 
     diameter.   There  are  some problems,  however,  that keep  this  from 
     working  in all cases.  One is that the seated core and jacket are  one 
     diameter,  correct for the shank of a normal bullet.   Yet, the forward 
     part  of the point forming die is undersized by so much that it is like 
     using the wrong caliber,  and the bullet can stick or be very difficult 
     to eject.   This happens when the reduced portion extends back very far 
     from the ogive.  
          There are many special instances where experimental processes work 
     very well in one instance and not at all or with great difficulty in  a 
     similar  but  slightly different case.   When possible,  stick  to  the 
     proven  and tested sets of dies:   they have great versatility just  as 
     they  are.   But  if you do need something special and don't  mind  the 
     extra cost involved in working out the details to make it work for your 
     case,  Corbin  is one of the few places in the world where you can  get 
     expert assistance at reasonable cost.

           
     CTJM-1-M  Copper Tubing Jacket-Maker Set, Mity Mite
          A  special set of dies that forms 0.030-wall hard drawn,  straight 
     copper tubing into bullet jackets with flat bases.   The bases are  not 
     completely closed,  but are nearly so.   Partitions cannot be formed in 
     the jacket material itself,  but can be made by using a smaller caliber 
     jacket telescoped inside the tubing.   This technique works well and is 
     described in "Rediscover Swaging".   Tubing jacket-makers are practical 
     for calibers from 7mm to .458 in the Mity Mite system.


     LED-2     Lead Extruder Die, Mity Mite
          A  special  sub-caliber extruder die set that makes wire  for  the 
     .14,  .17,  and .20 calibers,  using either a .38 cast bullet or a cast 
     core from a .44/45 core mould (or cut wire of .365-inch diameter).  All 
     three calibers of wire are made with the standard set, without ordering 
     any special parts.


     JRD-1-M   Jacket Reducing Die, Mity Mite
          Can  be  ordered for either jackets or bullets,  within  practical 
     limitations.   Popular use is for turning a .357 into a 9mm bullet,  or 
     for reducing a .44 jacket to .41 caliber.   Specify starting  diameter, 
     send samples to help the die-maker adjust the die,  and specify desired 
     final  diameter.   Without samples,  it is impossible to guarentee  the 
     final  bullet diameter closer than about 0.002 inches.   With  samples, 
     diameter can be held to better than 0.0005 inches.  


     RFJM-22M  Rimfire Jacket-maker, .224, Mity Mite
          This is the functional equivalent of the same die in the reloading 
     press (RFJM-22R).   It turns fired .22 cases (short,  long, long rifle, 
     or Stinger) into excellent .224 caliber jackets by drawing out the head 
     and  reducing the diameter.   The only difference between this die  set 
     and  the  one  for the reloading press is the  punch.   The  Mity  Mite 
     version uses a punch that screws into the ram,  and the die screws into 
     the 7/8-14 TPI press head just as it would in a reloading press.


     RFJM-6MM  Rimfire Jacket-maker, .243, Mity Mite 
          This is the functional equivalent of the same die in the reloading 
     press (RFJM-6MR).  It turns fired .22 LR or Stinger cases into preforms 
     to  make  a 6mm jacket.   The final forming takes place as the core  is 
     being seated,  expanding the drawn case to 6mm diameter from the  .225-
     inch  diameter  body typical of a fired .22 case.   The head  is  drawn 
     until it becomes a smooth 0.219-inch section,  but the rest of the case 
     is  NOT pushed through the die.   This is different from forming a .224 
     jacket (because the .224 requires that the whole case be pushed through 
     the die).   A two-diameter ejector rod presses the partly-drawn  jacket 
     back out of the die.


     PUNCH-M   Mity Mite Punch
          To order a punch for any Mity Mite die,  specify the caliber,  the 
     function (CS,  CSW,  PF, etc.), and whether it is internal or external.  
     External  punches fit the floating punch holder.   Internal punches fit 
     inside  the die and the ram of the press.   They are the  longer  punch 
     with the small tail on one end.
